Level Up Your 3D Prints with Hidden Magnets! | How To 3D Print Magnets In Your Designs
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A few years ago, I never heard of 3D printing, now can not live without it lol.
It's come along so much. Being able to design your own things and print them out is living in the future!
I know what you mean. I got the Printer fever too 😀
@@Andreas.Pfisterer+1
In PrusaSlicer you can also add negative volumes for the magnets. Useful for things like D&D minis and decorative fridge magnets when you don't want to mess around with the model in a CAD program or Blender. (If you're printing something with generated supports, you should also duplicate that negative volume, expand it on the Z axis by 2-3 layer height's worth, and turn the copy into a support blocker. Otherwise the program might generate supports in the hole.)
I usually don't fret around too much about tolerances, as a rule of thumb the diameter of the cylinder for the hole is magnet diameter + nozzle diameter (+ 2 × XY compensation if you're using any), the height is magnet height + 1 × layer height. The layer above the magnet is going to be filled using bridge flow anyway; it's going to sag a little so that will cover the extra space on the Z axis, and the extra material from the bridge flow ratio will ensure that it sticks in place on the XY even if the hole is slightly too big for it.
Really detailed info, thanks for sharing!
Bambu Studio can do negative volumes as well.
Switching the X1C's default hardened steel nozzle to a stainless nozzle will also prevent the nozzle picking up the magnets - useful for stronger magnets where friction alone may not hold them in, and for filaments where glue may not bond well or at all. The P1 series come with the stainless nozzles by default.
Mate that is excellent advice thank you! So obvious now I think about it. Limit’s some abrasive materials but like you said, might be required in some cases.
I think that you can print without covering the holes at all. Using some little work with epoxy or wood primer can help. As a guarantee that a magnet will not break epoxy over time here is an option: make pokets from sides and insert magnets there. Once it's done (and everything checked) you can even cover these places with plastic using a "3d pen" with the same filament.
@@DraftID why would anyone even use the normal nozzles? There is no big difference in the pricebetween the normal and the hardened. Great that you got a solution mate. Happy printing :)
@@morgenkaffe was probably just an excuse for bambu to configure the lower p1p/p1s model while also making a buck knowing people with those printers will likely upgrade to the hardened steel. I agree though, just go hardened cause you dont loose anything.
@@DraftID Wait. This is confusing. @edz44 said that switching from hardened to stainless would reduce the risk of picking up the magnets. Then you said just go hardened cause you don't lose anything. I've been embedding magnets in game pieces using an Ender 3 Pro with a brass nozzle for quite a while now with no problems. I've been eying the A1 Combo and wondered about how it would do with embedded magnets. Won't magnets be attracted to hardened steel and NOT to stainless? Is the "normal" nozzle stainless?
Glue a magnet to a stick (like a chopstick). Glue a magnet facing the other way to a different stick. Color-code the sticks. Now you will never insert a magnet the wrong way around, as you can pick up the magnets with the correct polarity.
Creative tip, thanks for sharing
Brillant
What type of glue are you using?
@@NikOutchcunis I don't remember if it was superglue or hot glue. I even printed a little 3d sock with one end for a chopstick and the other end for a small magnet.
@@NikOutchcunis I just use any super glue (CA glue). I find the better brands will last better when you put the cap back on while cheaper options will probably just dry up after the first use.
When it come to the pause, to make inserting the magnets easier, you can clear the pause dialogue box in the slicer and then lower the print table using the controls to give you more space from the top. When you hit resume the table comes back up and prints as it should.
Excellent tip thank you! Surprised I missed that.
I embedded bearings inside gears with similar technique, works great! Just a note - Bambu printer pauses before selected layer printing, not after it, so you can actually pause on the layer which covers the embedded part. That leftover plastic string is constant guest after pause with Bambu, and it annoys me a lot :D
Thats a cool idea about the bearings. Thanks for adding about the pause at start of layer. Couple people have pointed that out and I'm surprised I missed that. Its been great everyone being nice and helping the community here though so thanks for your comment :)
This is super helpful! Really enjoyed the pacing and detail of your tutorial. Can’t wait to try it out
Thank you! I'm always looking to improve so I hope the next one is even better :)
I had a design that I wanted to he heavy, so i paused the print before the top layers and added sand to the infil. Made it all neat and flat so the plastic could bridge nicely over it. All was perfect until the printer started bridging and fans went to 100%. Sand blew everywhere LOL. Still worked though, the print was nice and heavy
I saw something on reddit someone had done that, maybe it was you :p
@@DraftID no not me, but i got that idea from somewhere else so i’m not the first
Nice video. If batching out, would make sense to do a plate full of lids and then a plate full of containers. That way the pause time is there for multiple ones at once.
Do like the idea of using one to set the magnets. Efficient and quality control in one go!
I agree, do a bunch of lids and then do a bunch of bases. Glad you enjoyed it.
The superglue way is by far the best way to proceed.
I was feeling the pain your printer was enduring while you were press fitting the magnets, especially when the hammer entered the scene . By the way, tight fit is not guarantied to work for a series of magnets, because the holes dimensions are subject to small variations. Ditto for the magnets, that are not manufactured as precision parts, especially when bought for a couple of bucks the hundredth from some online Chinese shop.
Trust me, it was painful to bring out the hammer too! In the end In the end the glue was quickest & easiest way to go.
Thank you, thank you thank you. This is an excellent explanation. I really needed it. I love your tone and your ambition to explain this in such a fantastic way.
Thank you for the kind comments. I hope to produce more content like this once I settle into the new studio space next few weeks :)
@@DraftID New Studio - all the best.
I used this technique last year to make a scraper that magnets to the side of the X1C. cool to see this in my recommendations.
Happy to know YT is pushing my content to new people :)
You added the pause on the wrong layer. When you right click the layer, and hover your cursor over the Add Pause option, it clearly tells you that it will "insert a pause command at the beginning of this layer." That means you should add the pause on the layer that covers the magnet, not the one before.
That’s a really good point, sorry for missing that. Still works in this case but means I’m actually a layer behind. Thanks for picking up on that. Highlighted your comment so others hopefully see.
Although I don’t understand a lot of things going on here, I’ll always watch your videos. I’m a recent college grad that got interested in engineering because of working in agtech! I’ve been teaching myself solidworks with your help ❤ despite the fact that your newer videos are about things I don’t know (yet) I want to support the channel & pick up from these videos exposing myself to different things. Thank you 💕
Thank you mate! Its been a journey to create content that I want to create but also applies to a wider audience. It seems I have found some recent success in the 3D printing area, but I feel my focus will always be around the general area of CAD, design, & 3D printing, and creating tutorials in those spaces. I think your on the right path and a similar one to my own where I was always looking forward even into new things that I might not understand yet, but I think that helped later on having a little exposure to everything. Good luck on your studies and keep me updated :)
I have made 20+ tolerance sample prints for many sizes and shapes to use in my designs, they are critical if you are a designer. Well done.
I make them 30mm x 70mm x 3 or 4 mm thick with a hole on the end that I can string them onto a ball chain. That hangs right next to my calipers on the desk.
Good to meet another designer! I like the idea of having that "ready-to-test" chain setup.
This is the shortest and most effective video I have watched on this subject, you really covered a lot of material in an efficient and clear way. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience. Have a wonderful day!
Thank you so much! I get a few haters come in with comments saying the point of the video is obvious but I just want to make content that shares my process on working through things while at the same times sharing what I already know. Im glad people like you do appreciate the style I'm going for. Have a great day to you to!
Whether embedding the magnets during printing or adding them after I would recommend using the larger drop in size if you are using CA glue.
If you go with the tigther size and if you add too much glue or have a thicker type or brand (gel), it tends to leak out which can cause other issues including getting on your fingers. 😏
I just did a print with magnets. I created a hollow tube just wide enough for the magnet to fit in but taller than the magnet. Then I used the same model for the tube in cura and added it alongside the print I actually wanna print. Using the tube model as a cutting mesh without walls top/bottom layers. Just void and placed it inside the model I wanted to print. Now I can insert the magnet pipe into the print and it gets embedded that way. The magnet isn't near the nozzle. This of course only works if you can print something with magnet lower down, so might need to turn a model upside down. And it also needs enough space above for the pipe. Put works great!
Thats really cool, thanks for sharing!
Nice presentation, zero clutter, zero padding. Thanks for the upload.
Thank you!
Awesome tutorial. Adding it to the bag of tricks.
Very good video and thanks for sharing! Foro the 6.3mm hole, I wonder if a bit of CA glue would work so the tolerances wouldn't need to be perfect each time. Funny, you ended up using glue at the end. Ha.
Yeah in the end I used some glue just because I felt the process was much faster.
excellent video thank you for your time and efforts, I have this question regarding the insertion of magnets in a support enabled models, I noticeds that If I do have a model that needs support, when I insert holes for the magnets, the slicer tends to fill the hole with support, is there a way to tell the bambu slicer that it's intended to have a hole there?
Thanks :)
Sorry I didn’t actually reply to the question. You can right click and add modifiers. So you could add a cylinder, scale it to size and set its object properties to no support. You could also try using the support painting feature
@@DraftID I see, thank you!
Cool video, marking the magnets is a tip i needed a while ago
I noticed some magnets come marked which is nice but if not just mark them yourself :)
An easier way is to take a pair of chopsticks and glue small magnets to the tips with opposite polarities. Then color-code the sticks. Pick up the magnets with the stick, and you'll always have the correct side. Lids are blue, bases are red, that kind of thing.
Great video. I do this. lot my self. But I leave it at 3 layers on top or distance from the bottom (0,6mm), it give the best result imo. I also use the the 0,2mm clearance for the holes, so the magnets has a tight fit.
Thank you :)
Unrelated to magnets - what filament was used on the square box in the intro of the video? I really like the speckled, stone like finish.
That was probably the bambu marble white filament. Check my other videos cause I did a bunch of showcase videos on the bambu filaments and you will probably find it in the marble filament showcase. Its one of my favourites
Very informative video, thanks. Instead of trying to chase tolerances, you can make an oversized cavity, use a drop of CA or hot glue to hold them in place.
At the end of the video I actually go for a slightly larger hole and use glue :)
Thanks for the video. What is the purple filament you used? It looks so much like anodized aluminum, I love it and need it for myself!
Im pretty sure that is the bambu dual colour silk. Its really nice!
this is a great tips! thanks will try it out!
very helpful, thanks for this👍
For polarity I made a cube with up and front (towards yourself) and made all my magnets in the directions that match so if you had two cubes they'd stack if both kept in the same orientation. The only thing you then have to remember is to turn the cube if one of your parts is turned that way.
I like the idea. I sort of did that with a bulk amount of products I was printing and I would use one of the prints as my "base" so that all magnets would align with it.
Thanks for making this! I am glad I watched it I have been wanting to learn more commands in bambu studio. Liked and Subscribed!
Thank you! I'm planning to do a whole series on bambu studio so you can look forward to that :)
Really enjoyed your insights. I was just looking how to do this, you sure helped with hole sizes and top layers. Thank you
Your welcome! :)
This is amazing. I just purchased X1C this past weekend and looking to make models with magnets. I am a complete newbie and see that you are using fusion 360, would you say that fusion is easier to learn for someone who has no experience?
Congrats on your new purchase! Your going to get a lot of fun out of it. I think fusion 360 is a great CAD package for beginners and there is heaps of content out there to get you started. You will be making your own basic models in a couple of weeks for sure.
I have tried this, but the layer thickness of plastic between the magnets will have a noticeable effect on the holding power. I was doing fridge magnets and went back to my older method of gluing. Same thing with a carbon filter for my 3d printer--that 0.4mm wall just doesn't help hold as well as direct magnet to magnet.
This is true so you either have to use stronger magnets or more of them.
It is true, the more distance means less magnetic effect. I found mine where at a good distance so there could be other variables like magnet quality etc. I suppose larger magnets could also be used like 8x4 or something.
Thanks for the video. I enjoyed watching the whole process.
Thanks for watching :)
Now with the pausing does it pause at the start or end of the layer? I know with changing filament at a certain layer it changes it at the start of the layer, so in your example if you wanted to change colour for the layers printed on top of the magnets you would have to have the colour change one layer up from where you set the pause, so on the layer where it goes over the holes.
It might be worth slowing the print down at that stage to see if it does the pause at the start or end of the layer.
Someone pointed this out to me earlier and said it pauses at the START of the layer. They recommended that I should add the pause at the layer where it will be doing the top wall over the magnet since it will pause at the start of that layer and when you resume it will be laying down the top wall on the magnet.
Neat, I was going to go looking to figure out how to pause prints at a set-point. I'm glad it was this easy. I kept thinking, why not use CA glue, but then you did! :)
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for an excellent instructional video 👍
Very welcome
I find that if the magnet is close enough to the bed the magnetic bed holds it enough that the hot end doesn't pick it up. You could achieve this by flipping your models and printing them upside down. Extra bonus is that you can insert all your magnets with 1 pause.
Another interesting tip from the community thank you. Something to keep in mind when designing for 3DP.
Great video. My only suggestion is instead of just printing round holes which require a small tolerance to friction fit the magnets, print a slightly oversize hole with three tiny ridges that run down the sides of the hole to create enough friction to hold the magnet in place. This would be a lot more forgiving.
I think thats a pretty cool idea!
great tut, very informative, learned alot, thanks!
Thank you :)
Thanks for the video! Maybe you can make the hole bigger little bit then make 4 flange that inset to the size of the magnet to hold it. So the pressure/stress will be only at the 4 corner of the inset rather than whole circle.
Thats a cool idea and something to explore. Allows for a friction fit without the force required to push it in.
Probably super late, but I do it the same way using the slightly larger hole, and just throw a dot of superglue on the magnet before tossing it in. Works great since you dont have to force it in and potentially unlevel your bed.
Never too late to comment, just like I am late to reply :p I agree and in the end that’s the method I go with. A drop of CA glue in a loose fit hole and no problems.
You saved my work today)))) THHANKS!
Great!
Do you have a video on how to setup Fusion 360 to print directly to the Bambu printer? That is cool.
I could do one for sure! Ill add it to my list and get out asap :) Thanks for the suggestion!
This also works for lots of things other than magnets. Nuts are a common example. Weights is another one.
Yeah I agree, some interesting things you could do which I'll have to think about. I also considered nuts but didn't think about adding weights which could have interesting applications too.
nice. give the holes a slight chamfer to ease inserting the magnets....
Good idea!
Thanks for a great helpful tutorial !
Glad it was helpful!
The super glue was the best idea. I do my best not to disturb any axis during a print pause when changing color or adding weight (or magnets).
Agree, I think it was the easiest way in the end.
What a great tutorial, thank you for taking the time. I have downloaded your files and will attempt to try it out.
Good luck, hope it prints well :)
so this is great but is there a switch or way to pause in Cura? I tried the right click but that seems to be a Bambu only?
I found this which might help. Otherwise you could try orcaslicer which is a fork of bambu but with more printers.
all3dp.com/2/cura-pause-at-height-how-to-do-it/
@@DraftIDthanks much appreciated
Use a too large circle with interference nibs. Those will be much more tolerant to variability in the diameter. You only have to compress the tips of the nibs instead of overcone the hoop strength of the circular loop.
This is a really good tip. Thank you
Ooh. I've got a Formlabs Form3. Trying to figure out if pausing in the of the print will cause problems. Also, SLA prints upside down...
Yeah, I think your going to have a bad time trying this with a resin printer.
Mmm for something under constant stress like a cover I don't think just 2 layers of .2mm of filament will hold, giving that the force the magnets exert are indeed in the z axis which is by far de Achiles heel of FDM printing.
I found the magnets were not strong enough to be a concern
Awesome video thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
A sheet metal flex build plate and/or some sort of coverage on the bed probe solves the problem of magnets being pulled out. They're definitely not pulled out by the hotend since there's nothing magnetic in a hotend (unless you use a steel nozzle), mostly it's the probe pin of the ABL or sime low-sitting nuts/bolts on fan shrouds.
That's a really well-made video, with great tips and a deep explanation of each step. I am glad you made such an informative video, but seeing that build plate flex in 13:23 almost killed me. I would suggest to add a slighlty higher tolerance, such as 0.25mm and use glue to stick the magnet, or use even higher tolerances like 0.3mm but adding some ridges along the perimeter, as the magnet will deform the ridges to fit but staying tight till the end of the print.
Thank you, it was a fun video to make and I was always worried about saying too much compared to other videos where they just say a few lines of what they are doing over b-roll. As I continue with more videos I'm sure ill find an area between what works for me and what the viewers like. I hated pushing down on the build plate so hard too! Thats why I continued the video and decided to increase size and use glue instead. I was previously going to stop the video there as prior prints had been fine at 6.2mm, as soon as I film it I'm having to use so much effort :p
I think your suggestions are good ideas too and I might have to make a follow up video showing some of these extra tips
Hello from Tampa Florida! Great design and tutorial... is there a way to use Cura with your design?
I'm sure there is a way to do it. I don't know personally since I haven't used cura for a long time.
13:20 couldn't you also take out the build plate to not force the platform down like this or would that cause layershift?
I was worried about the layer shift. Either way it was not an ideal solution but did get the job done.
I use 8x2 mm and to get them to snap in, and stay flush. Make the hole .25 mm wider than the magnet and .5 mm deeper than the magnet is thick. Its either perfect or a little wide so just glue it in and no one will knkw otherwise.
Such an informative video, thank you!!
Your welcome
im gonna have to give this a try, thanks
Happy to share.
Thank you a lot for saving me a lot of time!!!❤
Your welcome, hope you enjoyed it :)
Pretty sure the M400 is placed at the beginning of the layer code, so you should put it on the layer the transition happens not the one below it. This has been my experience with Bambu studio.
Yup its true, my mistake sorry. It should be placed at the layer the top wall goes over since it pauses at the start of the layer. Ill probably make a correction video plus some extra tips
Guessing you've got a steel nozzle? Brass isn't magnetic AFAIK so would work without worrying about the tolerances. Or for those who have one a diamond nozzle would also work. I tried getting a Prusa to pause like that a while ago and it didn't work - they could have fixed it since.
Someone else pointed this out too that you could use a brass nozzle so it wasnt magnetic. It might not be compatible with exotic materials but it all depends on what you need :)
which magnet size should i buy for 3d printing
I find the 6x2mm neodymium are a good option. Small enough but good attraction for small projects. In Australia I find I can mostly find these for a good price on ebay but depends on your location. Shop around to make sure your not over paying. 100pcs for $13.85 + shipping.
This is so GOOD!
Thank you! :)
Very interesting and informative video, thank you.
So nice of you
Thank you for sharing
Your welcome!
Really enjoyed this and learned from it. I'm going to be using this technique for speaker grill project. Can you recommend a good glue for this purpose?
Cool! I have used a few different "super glues" and even just the cheap ones will work fine. I just find the cheaper ones will clog up easier making it hard to use the next time while spend a little more and they seem better at being able to use until the tube is empty.
...also, I've learned that super glue keeps much longer if you refrigerate it. @@DraftID
@@ruthere99cool tip, I did not know that!
thats awesome, thx 4 the video
Your welcome!
As it was the diameter and not the radius you set as 0.1 and 0.2 and 0.3 the actual tolerance for your part are in fact 0.05, 0.1 and 0.15. Nice job of your printer I have to say and the magnets seems to be accurately dimensioned too.
You are totally correct and I am surprised I overlooked that. You get tunnel vision sometimes on a project and forget the little things :)
Great video..thank you for sharing.
Your welcome, was a fun one to do.
Does anyone know if it's true that you can't do this with the Bambu Lab's A! series? They say the print heat will stop if you try to go over a magnate.
Hmm I haven't heard anything like that but I don't own an A1 so not closely watching the socials on it.
Late to the party, but I have an A1 and haven't had any issues with using magnets and printing over them.
How much does the plastic reduce the attraction of the magnets?
If you keep it to just a couple of layers then there is enough attraction between them still.
IMHO using only magnets is overkill! You can insert steel washers or nuts in the opposite holes. Usually you don't need that super strong connection for little jewelry boxes.
It's not a total user experience advice though :) But if you have some bigger magnets then it can work pretty well.
Also you can use simple screws in the main part if you don't want to pause a print twice. After finishing you can use a wood primer or epoxy. I think that it can be used as a style as well!
Yeah theres a few things you can do with this method using pauses to add things into your print designs which is pretty cool. I went with magnets in this case as I have been using them in a few projects and I really like that "snap" effect ")
This video was extremely informative and exactly what I was looking for :) Here is your sub and like!
Awesome, thank you!
What a valuable video! By the way, where do you keep the box with the gold coins?
In a secret spot of course! :p
can i ask like... isn't it better to make the part solid where the magnets will be, and just... drill the hole?
I suppose you could but you might end up chewing up the material.
what filament is the white one?
That is probably the bambu lab marble filament.
very nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
If you are using brass nozzles why did it jump out?
Mine are hardened steel so its magnetic
May need a drop of superglue if not tight enough or magnet may jump to print head ask me how i know
Keep watching the video and you will see I take that advice :p
I can't use this pause and insert technique because mine has a CR Touch probe. The magnet pulls the probe down, and the probe scrapes or collides with parts of the print, which is potential damage.
Damn that sucks. I hope one day you can make the upgrade to a bambu printer and that wont be a problem anymore :)
@@DraftID Hopefully one day I'll upgrade to something. I was looking at Prusa MK4. Haven't heard much about Bambu, but I'll keep it in mind.
My main concern is a printer where it is easy to print a perfect first layer. The Ender 3 S1 is giving me no shortage of grief in that department.
Definitely check out bambu lab, they are really leading the market right now and takes so much of the "tinkering" out of the process. I used to have an ender 3 and spent plenty adding auto bed levelling etc and still have to deal with issues to get it to print right. Once getting an X1C bambu printer I cut my print times down to a third yet still had better quality.
@@DraftID thanks for the advice! $1500 is pretty pricey but maybe in the future
@@sleeverobotan inestment for sure, but also check out the A1 or A1 mini
Using a hammer on a 3d build plate??? Thats a bright idea. Still, you need to do whatever will get the job accomplished.
Recommendation - next time you build a test block, add more holes at different dimensions to fit your part. I would have used 6.10, 6.15, 6.20, 6.25, etc. The greater number of test patterns, the better the fit.
Thanks. Great content.
The hammer was not an ideal solution but had to do something. Pretty sure in the video I make a test block to fit different sizes.
Understand, clearance is the gap between two surfaces. Tolerance is the allowed amount a specified distance is allowed to be off, either + or -.
This is why you see some measurements specified as say 10mm +/- .1mm or .3125” +/- .0005”. The target distance is given then the allowable error which is the tolerance. Please use the terms correctly.
This is a good point and I think in the moment on recording these concepts can often slip the mind as you focus on delivering. Its often like speaking to a crowd and you stumble over your words a bit, only to look back after and realise there are some things you could have said better.
Are you not worried about the cumulative stress you're putting on the bed support structure over time pressing all these magnets in against the bed?
Yes which is why later in the video I decided to increase the size and glue the magnets in rather then press fit them in.
Thanks for this!
My pleasure!
Curie temperature ?
I was thinking it would probably be a 0.2mm offset for a friction fit at this size from my own endeavors, good to know it works for more than just my printer SeemsGood
even a .25 might be a good spot for friction fit
@@DraftID yeah, when the things are this small even the slightest adjustment can make a pretty big difference..
Awesome! 👏
Thank you! Cheers!
When using this method I have used a gel superglue to lock them in place as well
I think its the much quicker and easier way to go about it :)
What is the sense of three same high positioned magnets? I thought it would be to test the magnetic strength with three different depth of the magnets.
On the same height its totally wastes material and time. Then it would be enought to print one zylinder with one punch for magnet.
The point was to test fitment, 2.1 2.2 and 2.3mm, its explained in the video.
I would suggest to use ca glue and a barely larger hole to place the magnet.
hahaha I should waint to finish the video before commenting
@@AbrahamMorgado not the first to do that :p
Hmm or clue it with superglue :D because I saw how far the bed was moving, I dont think that isnt good for the mechanic if u do it more times.
Watch till the end :p
Hmmm, now if there were a way to automatically place those magnets without having to pause the print and wait for user intervention 🤔
haha going for some crazy automation setup ideas hey :)
@DraftID I'm already think up of some crazy ideas. If only I were skilled enough...
6.3mm holes with a drop of CA glue. No pressure on Z axis. LOL.... as I'm typing this the video got to that point.
:)
TL;DR Don’t waste your time chasing the right tolerance for all magnets, just use Super Glue like you’ve seen it done everywhere else 🤷🏻♂️
Its always good to try everything and each option has their pro/cons. My videos are to show the process and document what I learn along the way.
Most people just use the same size of magnet for most things that they do, so for most people they just need to find the right size once.
Also the magnet sticking to the hotend is likely only an issue for steel nozzles.
i dont see any reason not to use glue there ...i put one small droplet on top of magnet and put it there. I dont see single drawback of this, it even minimizes the possible noise that could happen as magnet moves in slightly larger hole it needs (mostly on top)
He did...
@@11WicToR11 Exactly!
It should be mentioned that neodymium magnets are very sensitive to temperature and lose their magnetic strength when they get hot. So don't come up with the idea of melting the magnets with a soldering iron
Good to know. I feel like I have done that in the past so Im glad to know not to do it now.
@@DraftID Before Christmas I made a box that was closed with small neodymium magnets. I forgot to adjust the inside diameter and the printed holes were just too small. I thought, take the soldering iron and press them in like I do with brass threaded inserts. I turned on the soldering iron and the magnet stuck to the soldering tip only to fall off seconds later. At first I didn't know what happened, but on the second try I realized it must be the temperature.
I'm in a WhatsApp group that we set up and asked if anyone else was feeling the same way. To my surprise, only one person in the group knew that the magnets were sensitive to heat.
After I widened the holes with the "broken" magnets, I glued in good ones and the box now has a lid.
i had problems with the magnets losing power, due to the heating of the nozzle. solution was start splitting a part in 2 parts and just glue them with super glue
I found mine were ok with the heat from the nozzle. Might be a quality thing?