Tahoma Decagon Mirror Frame 1: A Greene and Greene Style CNC/ Shaper Origin Project.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- My last project video was a four-sided Tahoma Mirror frame. This will be a ten-sided version of that same frame.
Since I am in the process of learning how to use the Shaper Origin - a ten-sided frame provides me with reptation - which will aid me in the learning process. The Shaper is proving to be quite a lot of fun!
There will be four videos in this series. This first one deals with cutting the frame parts out and their subsequent machining .
For $20 I will be releasing the .svg file for Shaper Origin users and the .dxf file for all other CNC users. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![ออกพรรษาน้ำตาหล่น - แอน อรดี [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PFZtOcY9ONA/mqdefault.jpg)
Fantastic video Darrell !!. A retirement bucket list tool for me !! Glenn
thank you, Glenn
Very impressive, Darrell, both the woodworking and the making of the video. I enjoy seeing you in your shop, I hope one day I will be there again.
Thanks, Charlie. If you find yourself in Seattle it would be great if you could stop by for a visit!
Great stuff Darrell!
Thanks, Brenon
great video! for the spline jig - if you add a handle on the top of the horizontal section that sits across the fence it would make pushing and pulling much easier and safer
Thanks, Alex. I find I am OK without a handle - but it's a good idea for those that need something extra to steady the jig .
Thanks for sharing.
I’ve had the Shaper for a couple of years now. Pretty nice deal. If you haven’t setup an account with “shaper labs”, you may want to check it out. It will allow you to make some creative shapes or import some from their database. You can then upload your file to your account and open on the machine. It’s good for basic stuff. I feel I’m a bit handicapped with a graphic editor but I get by. My background is autocad, which makes life easier for me to program a conventional CNC.
A feature I use is “auto lock “ also. You may have been using it but I couldn’t tell. If you double tap the green button, it locks the auto mode on. It’s my favorite mode. I’ve asked Shaper to add a toggle feature on the screen so if you prefer, you could choose to allow one press to auto lock instead of a double tap.
Another mode of operation I’ve started doing on repetitive, identical parts. My first cut on my first part will be .2 inch deep with the .25 bit. I then remove the part, rough cut close to that edge and then use the finished edge to pattern cut the remainder of the edge. I then use that part for my pattern for all the other parts. Basically I’m not using the shaper origin except for the first cut on the first part.
I've used the "auto" feature -that's nice! I have more experience with CAD and CNC also.
My CAD program (TurboCad) does a very poor job of exporting to .SVG. The files are unusable. I have been exporting to .DXF then opening up in another program to then export to .SVG. I am working on finding a better way.
I have set up an account with shaper labs but haven't had a chance to dig into it much yet.
@@DarrellPeartFurnitureMaker Program work flow is not at all my strong suit at all with this. I’ve tried Inkscape, importing my .dxf and then export to sag. Autocad is basically what I draw in so that’s what I’ve been using to start my svg files. I am currently subscribing to the free version of Autodesk fusion for dwg import from autocad 2020, convert to 3d model and then export to svg. Fusion has a Shaper app that will take your 3d model and export to Shaper svg. Dimensions are exact so that’s a good thing. The bad thing about fusion is it’s a subscription if you use it for profit and it’s pricy. It’s free for hobbyists. It’s actually clunky for a guy like me that has been using autocad 2d and inventor for the last forever. I’m an old dog. I’ve tried the box joints on the Shaper...once again. Too much of an old dog to get a good grip on it. I actually like my multi-router box joint templates. I know...only two sizes. But I’m ok with that. Saw your Pantorouter video also. Good job with that one too.
Double tap the green button for Auto and you don't have to hold it down. Saves your thumbs.. You could also use the helix button since it is available on the helix part. Saves some time.
Thanks John - good tip! I have seen reference to the helix button but forgot what it does?
I'm looking forward to the entire series and buying the file. Thanks a lot for sharing this.
thank you!
Good overview - that tool has tremendous potential. Thanks for posting, and thumbs up!
Thanks, Steve. Yes - there's lots of applications for the Shaper Origin!
Hi Darrell. I have been looking at the Shaper Origin with workstation for several months now as I want to add joinery capabilities that are not that practical on the CNC. The only thing that is holding me back is the lack of compound joinery capability. I am curious what operations you prefer the Shaper over the CNC. Thanks. Steve
Hi Steve, I have very limited experience at this point, so I can't give a qualified answer.
But, with the little time I had had on the Origin - I see using it for drawer joinery ( especially some oddball stuff I have in mind) .
It has on-board capabilities to do rectangles, circles, ellipses etc. quickly without the need for a drawing. I think I will use these a lot. There's always the need to cut a hole in something.
Hardware installation is another place I envision using it.
Then the obvious strong point would be where its easier to take the tool to the workpiece -rather than the other way around.
@@DarrellPeartFurnitureMaker Thanks Darrell
Hi Darrell. I watched this with great interest. I have not entered the world of CNC in my shop yet and have been thinking the shaper origin could be my first step. Do you have an opinion on that path?
I think it depends upon what you want from a CNC based tool. I don't have a lot of experience on the Shaper Origin so I can't give a fully qualified response.
But, I think it's a great machine for small items such as the frame parts I did here. I see it's portability as invaluable - jobsite stuff and where you're doing secondary machining on a large piece. Quick & easy hardware installation is another place where it would do well. Quick circular cuts or rectangles would be easy as well. Some pattern mackling it would do well (except as pieces get larger it looses accuracy) . If you do a lot of this sort of thing the Shaper Origin may be a good place to start.
But if you do a lot of production and especially big pieces, then a larger CNC might be the place to start. The larger CNC, once set up, will fly through piles of work with incredible accuracy. The Shaper Origin is relatively slow and can't fly through thick dense material. It looses accuracy on larger pieces.
Having said all that - the Shaper Origin is a small fraction of the cost of my bigger CNC machine. If cost and/or space are major factors then the Shaper Origin may be a good starting point.