Somebody way over torqued the flywheel nut (breaker bar with cheater pipe is NOT a torque wrench) and when it made that god awful sound they tried to repair the damage by welding it. Improperly balanced and cockeyed it shook the motor to death starting with the piston rings which then destroyed the pistons with their corpses as they were ground to filings. I would say that there was more than one attempt to "rebuild" this one with the core problem never being addressed. Just the symptomatic damage was repaired as it became an issue. We all know that a rebuilt should not be distinguishable from brand new other than the part numbers. Attention to detail. Love your videos mate.
I think that crankshaft was previously broken and yes I agree with you that someone has tried to weld it back together. I feel for you that you haven’t wasted your money as there is plenty of parts you can reuse on other engines you have come in for repair. Well done Brandon that is a good video.
I tore down a 115hp the owner said his son ran with no oil in the gas. It didn't have VRO either. Pistons were galded and looked very similar to those. As far as the crank twisting off, it could have been a bad cast and had sand or other contaminates in it causing it to fail. Also, with the stainless prop, if you hit something and that crank had a weak place in it, the momentum of the flywheel could have twisted it off. I've seen that happen before. Look at the break closely and see if it has any black or grayish patches in it.
The heat ring looks similar to what you get when you flame spray a shaft to repair a bearing journal , maybe it spun a flywheel and damaged the taper then they had it flame sprayed and re machined ? If that taper had a little run out after machining the vibration from the flywheel could have fatigued the crank .
There’s are guy up here that claims he rebuilds everything and even put a rubber bungee cord around a leg ( instead of replacing the mounts ) and in his adds it say “ strategically placed “ and sells them like that ! My friend sees at least 10 motors a year from this guys former customers to get them fixed correctly ! But yet he’s still in business ! Go figure ! Lol. The end of the crank looks very very weird in that it’s smooth and rough , I’d say he tried to weld and it failed !!!!!!!!! I think it’s also slightly out of time because of that ! That’s my opinion !
It would be interesting to see the crankshaft stub after it is removed from the flywheel. That will show evidence of welding if it was welded. It doesn't make sense to me to weld a broken crankshaft back together. A used crank would be much cheaper than welding, remachining, and balancing.It looks as though this motor has been disassembled and cobled back together numerous times and is a mix of used parts from multiple motors. Can you fix it? Sure, but is it worth it? I don't think so. How about a powerhead switch? Interesting video. Thanks for a good job. Dave
#1 piston looks like the motor overheated or at least on that side because there's nothing wrong on the intake side of that piston. I didn't see any details from the port side pistons so I can't say much from there. The piston with a groove in it I'm not very knowledgeable about if there's no markings on the cylinder wall. Maybe it was "borrowed" from another cylinder and re-used (perish the though, ughh.)
I believe the crossflows had an issue with breaking cranks due to harmonics if ran at 6200 rpms. Also should a non xp/gt 150 have bathtub heads? It kinda looks like a newer power head. Maybe a xp/gt powerhead?
Wire feed, you called it. I just got a $5,000 estimate from a good reputation high volume shop for a 1990 Johnson 175GT. As little as I use the boat, seems like a good idea. I can buy alot of gas for what I will save over a new Suzuki.
Over torquing the flywheel nut cannot cause it to break at that point. It will either strip or damage the threads or it will break just under the threads where it is the weakest point.
I think someone dropped it or it was involved in a accident like rear ended by a truck while towing the boat. I’ve been looking at copart boats for good deals on engines and see a bunch of them like that.
THey are deflectors. This is how the engine directs the flow of water to cool the cylinders. They MUST be there and they MUST be in the exact spot intended. If not, your engine wears and dies early.
I'm astounded at how similar this looks to my 200hp YAMAHA under the cowling...even the shape of the thermostat housing is very similar...I know Yamaha's were "based" on omc designs but this is a downright copy!
My bet is during the first tear down before the “rebuild” someone heated the crankshaft to get the flywheel off and tried to weld/patch it Never a good idea
@Nancy Pelosi He said it was a non-VRO, showed the large fuel pump and said it was not a VRO. They were porbably supposed to put 2-stroke oil in the gas tank.
Cylinders of different bores...not good! Those and the damaged head indicate the first critical failure in the powerhead's history. That was obviously followed by very shoddy repair work, resulting in mismatched bores. The mismatched bores will make for a very rough running motor. Rough running Evinrudes are known for shearing the crankshaft woodruff key. So that happens, and the powerhead goes back to the same questionable shop. A common practice with small 2-strokes (think chainsaws, weedwhackers...etc) with damaged keyways is for a shop to use a wire welder to fill in the damaged area. Then they mill the shaft back into shape and recut a new keyway. It's usually acceptable for those low power motors, assuming quality machining. But this was obviously not a quality shop. And the work was done to a 150hp motor. Misbalanced compression, welded and unbalanced crankshaft...also compromised metallurgy from the heat of welding. Bang! You end up with this pile of scrap. All in all, it's a history of systemic poor maintenence.
I agree, half ass rebuild by a crook. the Flame spray below was nice try but this guy who rebuilt this motor No way he wouldn't have skill or equipment to flame spray a crank.
Somebody way over torqued the flywheel nut (breaker bar with cheater pipe is NOT a torque wrench) and when it made that god awful sound they tried to repair the damage by welding it. Improperly balanced and cockeyed it shook the motor to death starting with the piston rings which then destroyed the pistons with their corpses as they were ground to filings. I would say that there was more than one attempt to "rebuild" this one with the core problem never being addressed. Just the symptomatic damage was repaired as it became an issue. We all know that a rebuilt should not be distinguishable from brand new other than the part numbers. Attention to detail. Love your videos mate.
i've got at least 3 of these cranks at the shop all polished and ready to go. cheap, too. send the block out and do a rebuild for the channel!
I think that crankshaft was previously broken and yes I agree with you that someone has tried to weld it back together. I feel for you that you haven’t wasted your money as there is plenty of parts you can reuse on other engines you have come in for repair. Well done Brandon that is a good video.
Crazy how people don't take care of their motors. Maintenance is so easy to do
I tore down a 115hp the owner said his son ran with no oil in the gas. It didn't have VRO either. Pistons were galded and looked very similar to those. As far as the crank twisting off, it could have been a bad cast and had sand or other contaminates in it causing it to fail. Also, with the stainless prop, if you hit something and that crank had a weak place in it, the momentum of the flywheel could have twisted it off. I've seen that happen before. Look at the break closely and see if it has any black or grayish patches in it.
That looks like a fun little project
The heat ring looks similar to what you get when you flame spray a shaft to repair a bearing journal , maybe it spun a flywheel and damaged the taper then they had it flame sprayed and re machined ? If that taper had a little run out after machining the vibration from the flywheel could have fatigued the crank .
There’s are guy up here that claims he rebuilds everything and even put a rubber bungee cord around a leg ( instead of replacing the mounts ) and in his adds it say “ strategically placed “ and sells them like that ! My friend sees at least 10 motors a year from this guys former customers to get them fixed correctly ! But yet he’s still in business ! Go figure ! Lol. The end of the crank looks very very weird in that it’s smooth and rough , I’d say he tried to weld and it failed !!!!!!!!! I think it’s also slightly out of time because of that ! That’s my opinion !
Great video, very informative, what are you going to do with it?
It would be interesting to see the crankshaft stub after it is removed from the flywheel. That will show evidence of welding if it was welded. It doesn't make sense to me to weld a broken crankshaft back together. A used crank would be much cheaper than welding, remachining, and balancing.It looks as though this motor has been disassembled and cobled back together numerous times and is a mix of used parts from multiple motors. Can you fix it? Sure, but is it worth it? I don't think so. How about a powerhead switch? Interesting video. Thanks for a good job. Dave
#1 piston looks like the motor overheated or at least on that side because there's nothing wrong on the intake side of that piston. I didn't see any details from the port side pistons so I can't say much from there.
The piston with a groove in it I'm not very knowledgeable about if there's no markings on the cylinder wall. Maybe it was "borrowed" from another cylinder and re-used (perish the though, ughh.)
I believe the crossflows had an issue with breaking cranks due to harmonics if ran at 6200 rpms. Also should a non xp/gt 150 have bathtub heads? It kinda looks like a newer power head. Maybe a xp/gt powerhead?
“We do not have a fuel pump but we have this thing which is a fuel pump”
Just poking fun, I thoroughly enjoyed the video.
oh Ive said much stranger things than this.
Wire feed, you called it. I just got a $5,000 estimate from a good reputation high volume shop for a 1990 Johnson 175GT. As little as I use the boat, seems like a good idea. I can buy alot of gas for what I will save over a new Suzuki.
I wonder if the cylinder block needs all new sleeves. Would that be cost effective to do?
Welded halfway with a harbor freight welder and slapped together
Over torquing the flywheel nut cannot cause it to break at that point. It will either strip or damage the threads or it will break just under the threads where it is the weakest point.
Had a Yamaha ProV 200 crank did that twice, broke in the same spot.
Needle bearing damage on piston head
I think someone dropped it or it was involved in a accident like rear ended by a truck while towing the boat. I’ve been looking at copart boats for good deals on engines and see a bunch of them like that.
That power trim and tilt wiring for sale or what? 😃
Now you have spare parts..that motor is finito
Looked like ran lean.and Hydro locked. I'm confused.
I'm trying to figure out what those little rubber pieces between the water ports are so I can replace them if needed
THey are deflectors. This is how the engine directs the flow of water to cool the cylinders. They MUST be there and they MUST be in the exact spot intended. If not, your engine wears and dies early.
I have a Johnson 150 too any place I can send it to rebuild please
I'm astounded at how similar this looks to my 200hp YAMAHA under the cowling...even the shape of the thermostat housing is very similar...I know Yamaha's were "based" on omc designs but this is a downright copy!
My bet is during the first tear down before the “rebuild” someone heated the crankshaft to get the flywheel off and tried to weld/patch it Never a good idea
Nancy Pelosi Well ma’am you of all people should know about doing things your not supposed to do🤣
What is the brown wire that is connected to the top right cylinder area? Mine is disconnected but not sure what it does.
Tan wire, it's for the overheat alarm.
Quite important, I would hook it up.
Where are you located
Dang, too bad it’s in that rough of shape, that 150 really would have made the ole toon fly like a rocket, lol
Great autopsy Brandon.
crank was welded and broke and the pistons were ran with out oil
@Nancy Pelosi think the vro pump works on a vacume pulse pump
@Nancy Pelosi He said it was a non-VRO, showed the large fuel pump and said it was not a VRO. They were porbably supposed to put 2-stroke oil in the gas tank.
Poorly maintained, sad to see a nice motor uncared for
My dad's broke going down the river
oh?
Do you still need a crank? I’ve got one if interested
Cylinders of different bores...not good! Those and the damaged head indicate the first critical failure in the powerhead's history. That was obviously followed by very shoddy repair work, resulting in mismatched bores. The mismatched bores will make for a very rough running motor.
Rough running Evinrudes are known for shearing the crankshaft woodruff key. So that happens, and the powerhead goes back to the same questionable shop. A common practice with small 2-strokes (think chainsaws, weedwhackers...etc) with damaged keyways is for a shop to use a wire welder to fill in the damaged area. Then they mill the shaft back into shape and recut a new keyway. It's usually acceptable for those low power motors, assuming quality machining.
But this was obviously not a quality shop. And the work was done to a 150hp motor. Misbalanced compression, welded and unbalanced crankshaft...also compromised metallurgy from the heat of welding. Bang! You end up with this pile of scrap. All in all, it's a history of systemic poor maintenence.
I agree, half ass rebuild by a crook. the Flame spray below was nice try but this guy who rebuilt this motor No way he wouldn't have skill or equipment to flame spray a crank.