The process in this video worked perfectly for me. Thanks a million. The only thing I did first was to bleed all of the old fluid so I was not pushing old fluid up.
I just found this video. I need to change the fluid in my brakes and hydraulic clutch due to the fluid being contaminated with water. I will use your tools and system to get this done. Thanks for a very informative and cost saving video.
Great video! Thanks. For some reason my ABS light comes on now and local dealer says it needs a computer reset. Does this sound right and necessary? Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.
@@ColoradoKC I bet he was just trying to throw shade on this process. Some people just need to be coddled by the dealership. If the process seems complicated, by all means… go to the dealership!
If I only need to bleed and replace my fluid. I haven’t replaced any line or introduced air in anyway to this point, do I follow this process as shown or is there additional steps to the process since I have dual calipers on a 2016 FLHTK.
That was for the front brake. My 2019 limited also has a rear brake fluid reservoir by the rear brake pedal. What's the procedure for that and does any of this fluid pass thru the abs motor?
I think I may have messed something up. When I crack the blender nut and try to push the plunger on the syringe, I hit a wall. I can’t move any fluid. Wondering if my new braided cable from the abs to the front brake master cylinder isn’t connected correctly? I used the existing crush washers and not the new ones provided. (I didn’t see them in the package until after I installed it.) Could the size of the original crush washers be incorrect, not allowing fluid to flow through the banjo bolts properly?
At 2:11 while you were concerned with air in the tubing connected to the syringe, the tubing connected to the bleeder valve has a big air pocket that is immediately introduced into the the system.
+Gary Baldwin think about it. There was no air there to begin with, which is why the process works so well. The only air introduced is in the upper ABS line that you are changing, everything below that point is still sealed. Air only goes up, not down.
Just wanted to add to say thanks for this. While I didn't need to bleed the bike, I accidentally got air into the upper line while trying to sort out a leak at the connection point. Your trick about opening the master cylinder and squeezing the throttle helped pull those air bubbles out and re-firm up my grip. Now to figure out how to fix the leak.
Thinking about putting 14in bars on my 16 street glide. Worried about taking the bike to the dealership to bleed the a.b.s. system. Relived I found this video. Thanks!
Do you have a video on taking the front brake line off the ABS module on a 2020 Road Glide etc? Trying too see is there a way too bleed that after banjo is remove too put one on that's new or have no fluid inside.
I just replaced my handlebars to 12” on my 2018 street glide. In doing so, I wanted to slightly change the angle that the line came out of the bottom of the master cylinder. I loosen the nut just a little too much and introduced some air into the line my mistake. From what I saw on this video, I should be able to simply remove the top cap of the master cylinder and slowly pump the front brake lever to push the air back out? Am I thinking of that correctly?
After replacing upper brake line I was able to use this method and had no issues with the ABS. Brakes feel good and work well. However, when I initially started to drive new fluid up the brake line, a very small squirt of brake fluid shot up from the master cylinder. Luckily, I had my tank covered so nothing landed on the painted areas. A few moments after this initial squirt, the fluid started to fill the master cylinder similar to the video. Next time I do this I will wear safety glasses and cover the entire bike.
I am in the process of installing 14s, I turned on the ignition a couple times to make sure everything worked and I did not yet bleed the brakes. The line from the M/C to ABS module was changed will the Module have air in it now???
Do you still need to only do one side? I have dual disks in the front with ABS. Replacing the top brake line after a riser install with a longer cable.
Please tell me how this fills the new brake line that goes from the abs mod to the master cylinder on the handlebars. Wouldn’t this just fill the front
This comment touched on this: "What I have seen is that you change the fluid first. Then take the bike out and hit the brakes hard to activate the ABS. This will open the ABS and the fluid in the ABS will release into the system. Then you rebleed and fill again. This time you should have pretty much all new fluid in the system"
Hello Sir, Video makes total sense, and has worked well for my factory calipers, however, on my 2020 FLHX w/ABS, If I am installing a new set of front (chrome) calipers would I follow the following procedure? THANK YOU ! ! 1. Remove existing front left caliper 2. Install new front left caliper 3. Remove front master cylinder cap 4. Squeeze front brake lever to push caliper cups towards rotor 5. Now bleed front left caliper The above sequence makes sense (my assumption) because Im trying to fill the caliper with fluid prior to bleeding. Make sense? Thanks again! Love your videos!!
I had to put a longer line on my FLRT .It went from the master cylinder to the ABS Module,would this still work the same way ? Put taller bars and had to get longer cables both Hydraulic.
I found your channel this week. I am extremely impressed with the amount of detailed information that you provide. And the music on this video was a nice plus. Keep up the good work!!!!!!
Thank You and appreciate the video. One question, does the ABS module contain any fluid that I should be concerned about? I recently picked up a 2014 ultra limited with 11k miles and am quite sure the fluid has never been flushed.
Yes it does, but nothing to be worried about. When you flush and bleed your back, ride it up the street slowly pumping the back brakes several times, come back...flush again, All New fluid. Sounds like a pain & waste of time, money, effort but it's cheaper than HD.
I swapped my bars on my abs equipped dyna, and now i have no pressure in my front brake. Must have flipped the reservoir over... Did i get air in my abs system?
Not a dumb question at all. This is the exact reason why I'm here. I want to do a bar install, and the bars need longer brakelines. So Im trying to figure out a way to do it without having to install and then go to the dealership.
I read through all the comments and just want to make sure I have this correct. Im about to do a bar swap and gong to replace the upper and mid brake lines but will be using the existing lowers. Using this procedure to bleed the brakes afterwards I shouldn't need to worry about purging the ABS module correct?
Do it the same way as shown in the video. However, you may have to take fluid out of the master cylinder once it fills up so that you can keep pushing fluid up from the caliper. This will help get all the air out of the lower line that is now being pushed up through the ABS block. Does that make sense?
So if I’m replacing an entire brake line with a brand new brake line and the fluid has all been drained from the reservoir…. Does this process still work or does the bike need to go in for the digital brake bleed bs for the abs?
"What happens when you fart in a bathtub?" that line just earned you another subscriber lol. Glad to see boys will be boys. Thanks for saving me money and time!
+BrokenVineyards We apologize for the delay in getting back to you. The same method applies to rear brakes. We've had success with it, but the most important thing to do is check proper function after bleeding. If there's air appearing in the line, simply resort to the traditional brake bleed method.
Couldn't you just ride the bike and actuate the ABS and bleed the brakes I have done this on my car so I didn't have to use the dealership laptop to get the air out of my abs module
Great Video, but I have a Dumb question, ... What size wrench (for the Bleeder nut) will fit the 2017 Road King? I'm not sure & don't want to strip the bolt in the middle of trying to pull this process off. Thanks in advance, your videos are great insights to different ways of doing things.
What I have seen is that you change the fluid first. Then take the bike out and hit the brakes hard to activate the ABS. This will open the ABS and the fluid in the ABS will release into the system. Then you rebleed and fill again. This time you should have pretty much all new fluid in the system
I bled the front brakes. Everything felt fine but at slow maneuvering in the driveway, I noticed a couple of times, the front brake lever fell flat to the handlebar. I let it go and pulled the front brake again and it felt fine. Good and tight. Any ideas what could cause that?
@@HillCountryCustomCycles I'm preparing to order an ape kit from you guys for a 2018 Heritage. So this method will not work for the newer Harleys w/ the linked braking system?
Does this work with a 2019 Tri Glide after I install my new bars, mid brake lines, and upper brake line? I was told by the dealer that I had to take it to them because of the linked reflux breaking system.
Just wanted way, I have had non stop issues trying to bleed my brakes on my M8 Lowrider S . Had the pump handle, the vacuum pump, all put air in my lines . Ordered your little tool, took 5 days, and 5 minutes to actually do the work. My bikes been down 3 weeks until I saw your video. I did push to hard on the left side and shit fluid across the room lol Great product thanks man
I replaced my OEM rear lower brakeline with a new 3" extended line and need to bleed the new line on my ABS on 2014 HD Breakout. What is the best method to do this without causing air into the ABS system?
I looked on your website and was unable to locate the tube and syringe part you were using. Any help as to where to look as I am sure I'm over looking it.
+scotty gafford Sorry for the delayed response, but we actually don't have those up on the website yet to order. They are included in some bar kits per customer request. But you're welcome to call the shop (512-264-7333) and we can send one out to you no problem. Just ask for the bleed kit.
I have a 16 fxdwg, I'm putting bigger bars on it. if i only replace the lines going from the bars and to the caliper, not the lines to the abs, would this method work? or would i need to be concerned about something going wrong?
If I’m replacing my front brake line, I have to remove the lines going from the front manifold to the abs module. Does reverse bleeding refill those lines as well?
I got lost when he said, "We've got a new brake line..." and he pointed rearward. We do? Where? And how does it have no air in it? Is it vacum sealed? What if *I* don't have a new brake line? How does that impact this process? How *much* does one remove from the master cylinder? Oh, and how does he avoid any air getting into the system when he initially connects the hose from the brake fluid bottle and connects it to the bleeder valve? No air on the transfer? HUGE air bubble @ 2:11
Did you listen to what you said you have you pumped it you said you filled the line with air how would you feel the line with are need to listen to it again what you said
+word302 Sorry for the delayed response, but no, you shouldn't have the pay the dealer to bleed it. As long as you slowly push all the air out of the lines with the fluid, you should have properly working brakes. When the master cylinder fills is nearly full and you're done bleeding, you may just want to give some slow pumps to the lever (like in the video) to assure all the air has been pushed up and out of the line. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the response. Would it be a good idea to replace the lines one at a time? For example, replace the upper line and master cylinder and reverse bleed like in your video. Then replace the lower line and caliper and do a conventional bleed out the caliper. Or just replace everything and reverse bleed the entire system?
+word302 just replace it all. You could do about 1/3 of the syringe through 1 caliper, then do the rest through the other caliper. This way, your still pushing fluid up the entire time, and you get air out of both sides. Hopefully that makes some sense.
I was told when I replace my bars and add new lines I will need to present my computer after I bleed the lines. Is this true? I have a 2015 street glide special. It's the only thing holding me back from doing the job. Thanks!
Really? He states right at the beginning what the deal is. I changed and bled my ABS brakes per these instructions and it worked perfectly. If you don't feel confident, then by all means pay the dealership to do it for you. Ride Safe.
+Christopher Wilkie it's going to get air in the abs block either way you go because you replaced both hoses. Now air is on the top and bottom. The nice thing about pushing fluid from the bottom is the fact that air always wants to go up. When you use a vacuum bleeder from the bottom, you are pulling fluid down and fighting the air that wants to go up. And because those lines run horizontal along side the frame, it makes it even worse.
Hey just got 2019 road king Special I changed the bars while I was at it I changed the cluth and break lines I'm ready to bleed them can I use this method thanks
Epic fail. The title is misleading. This video does not address the fluid that remains in the ABS modules. They need to be cycled so new fluid gets into them and the system needs to be flushed and bled again. Not bleeding the modules leads to many ABS problems.
The process in this video worked perfectly for me. Thanks a million. The only thing I did first was to bleed all of the old fluid so I was not pushing old fluid up.
I just found this video. I need to change the fluid in my brakes and hydraulic clutch due to the fluid being contaminated with water. I will use your tools and system to get this done.
Thanks for a very informative and cost saving video.
Just got quoted $145 to bleed just my front brakes on my 13 RG, glad I found this....
Great video! Thanks. For some reason my ABS light comes on now and local dealer says it needs a computer reset. Does this sound right and necessary? Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.
cj, what was the outcome?
@@ColoradoKC I bet he was just trying to throw shade on this process. Some people just need to be coddled by the dealership. If the process seems complicated, by all means… go to the dealership!
If I only need to bleed and replace my fluid. I haven’t replaced any line or introduced air in anyway to this point, do I follow this process as shown or is there additional steps to the process since I have dual calipers on a 2016 FLHTK.
That was for the front brake. My 2019 limited also has a rear brake fluid reservoir by the rear brake pedal. What's the procedure for that and does any of this fluid pass thru the abs motor?
Thanks for the knowledge! Had to rebuild the front brake master cylinder on my 16' RGS and this video saved me $500! Screw the stealership!
Use on 2011 street glide with abs. Works!!! No dealership needed. Brakes are 💪. Saved my customer time and 💰. Thanks HCC
One if the best videos ever. Still have luddites that don't get it.
Key thing is that it doesn't take much effort to push "old" fluid from the ABS.
I think I may have messed something up. When I crack the blender nut and try to push the plunger on the syringe, I hit a wall. I can’t move any fluid.
Wondering if my new braided cable from the abs to the front brake master cylinder isn’t connected correctly? I used the existing crush washers and not the new ones provided. (I didn’t see them in the package until after I installed it.)
Could the size of the original crush washers be incorrect, not allowing fluid to flow through the banjo bolts properly?
At 2:11 while you were concerned with air in the tubing connected to the syringe, the tubing connected to the bleeder valve has a big air pocket that is immediately introduced into the the system.
I thought so too. How can air bubbles go up if they have to pass through the ABS module?
+Gary Baldwin think about it. There was no air there to begin with, which is why the process works so well. The only air introduced is in the upper ABS line that you are changing, everything below that point is still sealed. Air only goes up, not down.
Will this work on a 2020 Road Glide? I heard this method no longer works on newer bikes?
It dosent
My 2021 just built up pressure in the syringe and never could get the caliper to take any fluid. Mine is a 2021 with rdrs.
Just wanted to add to say thanks for this. While I didn't need to bleed the bike, I accidentally got air into the upper line while trying to sort out a leak at the connection point. Your trick about opening the master cylinder and squeezing the throttle helped pull those air bubbles out and re-firm up my grip. Now to figure out how to fix the leak.
+matt e Awesome to hear the method helped you fix an issue, we appreciate the comment. Good luck on fixing the leak!
Thinking about putting 14in bars on my 16 street glide. Worried about taking the bike to the dealership to bleed the a.b.s. system. Relived I found this video. Thanks!
Did it work for you
Do you have a video on taking the front brake line off the ABS module on a 2020 Road Glide etc? Trying too see is there a way too bleed that after banjo is remove too put one on that's new or have no fluid inside.
I just replaced my handlebars to 12” on my 2018 street glide. In doing so, I wanted to slightly change the angle that the line came out of the bottom of the master cylinder. I loosen the nut just a little too much and introduced some air into the line my mistake. From what I saw on this video, I should be able to simply remove the top cap of the master cylinder and slowly pump the front brake lever to push the air back out? Am I thinking of that correctly?
After replacing upper brake line I was able to use this method and had no issues with the ABS. Brakes feel good and work well. However, when I initially started to drive new fluid up the brake line, a very small squirt of brake fluid shot up from the master cylinder. Luckily, I had my tank covered so nothing landed on the painted areas. A few moments after this initial squirt, the fluid started to fill the master cylinder similar to the video. Next time I do this I will wear safety glasses and cover the entire bike.
I am in the process of installing 14s, I turned on the ignition a couple times to make sure everything worked and I did not yet bleed the brakes. The line from the M/C to ABS module was changed will the Module have air in it now???
Do you still need to only do one side? I have dual disks in the front with ABS. Replacing the top brake line after a riser install with a longer cable.
Please tell me how this fills the new brake line that goes from the abs mod to the master cylinder on the handlebars. Wouldn’t this just fill the front
This comment touched on this: "What I have seen is that you change the fluid first. Then take the bike out and hit the brakes hard to activate the ABS. This will open the ABS and the fluid in the ABS will release into the system. Then you rebleed and fill again. This time you should have pretty much all new fluid in the system"
What if you do change the bottom brake line? I changed my full brake line and did this but I have no pressure.
Hello Sir,
Video makes total sense, and has worked well for my factory calipers, however, on my 2020 FLHX w/ABS, If I am installing a new set of front (chrome) calipers would I follow the following procedure? THANK YOU ! !
1. Remove existing front left caliper
2. Install new front left caliper
3. Remove front master cylinder cap
4. Squeeze front brake lever to push caliper cups towards rotor
5. Now bleed front left caliper
The above sequence makes sense (my assumption) because Im trying to fill the caliper with fluid prior to bleeding.
Make sense?
Thanks again!
Love your videos!!
I had to put a longer line on my FLRT .It went from the master cylinder to the ABS Module,would this still work the same way ? Put taller bars and had to get longer cables both Hydraulic.
I found your channel this week. I am extremely impressed with the amount of detailed information that you provide. And the music on this video was a nice plus. Keep up the good work!!!!!!
This video helped me tremendously. I was trying the old school way and it wasn't working. Did this way and good to go.
Thank You and appreciate the video. One question, does the ABS module contain any fluid that I should be concerned about? I recently picked up a 2014 ultra limited with 11k miles and am quite sure the fluid has never been flushed.
Yes it does, but nothing to be worried about. When you flush and bleed your back, ride it up the street slowly pumping the back brakes several times, come back...flush again, All New fluid. Sounds like a pain & waste of time, money, effort but it's cheaper than HD.
will this work when i replace my upper brake line with my new bars the line that gos from front master cylinder to the abs module
Great tip and very easy!
I swapped my bars on my abs equipped dyna, and now i have no pressure in my front brake. Must have flipped the reservoir over... Did i get air in my abs system?
So what is the process if I drain the old brake fluid first
Dumb question, I can use this same method if I want to change my brake cables? Yes I have abs
Not a dumb question at all. This is the exact reason why I'm here. I want to do a bar install, and the bars need longer brakelines. So Im trying to figure out a way to do it without having to install and then go to the dealership.
What about the caliper on the other side does it need to be done too?
I read through all the comments and just want to make sure I have this correct. Im about to do a bar swap and gong to replace the upper and mid brake lines but will be using the existing lowers. Using this procedure to bleed the brakes afterwards I shouldn't need to worry about purging the ABS module correct?
+Toner Stoner that is correct
do you have to do that to each caliper front and back?
how do you bleed the abs system if you've replaced both hoses. the one from the master and the one to the caliper.
Do it the same way as shown in the video. However, you may have to take fluid out of the master cylinder once it fills up so that you can keep pushing fluid up from the caliper. This will help get all the air out of the lower line that is now being pushed up through the ABS block. Does that make sense?
So if I’m replacing an entire brake line with a brand new brake line and the fluid has all been drained from the reservoir…. Does this process still work or does the bike need to go in for the digital brake bleed bs for the abs?
Never seen it done that way. SUBSCRIBED!
"What happens when you fart in a bathtub?" that line just earned you another subscriber lol. Glad to see boys will be boys. Thanks for saving me money and time!
Excellent explanation
What brake fluid do you recommend.
Trying to bleed front brakes. When open the bleeder not much fluid come out, even with pump on it ?
I’ve tried that over 2 hrs and never worked. Had to take it in. The best $50 I’ve ever spent.
Very curious about the rear brakes now. The brake caliper is higher than the master cylinder. Suggestions?
+BrokenVineyards We apologize for the delay in getting back to you. The same method applies to rear brakes. We've had success with it, but the most important thing to do is check proper function after bleeding. If there's air appearing in the line, simply resort to the traditional brake bleed method.
Awesome. Worked great for me. Just finished 2 Ultras at once.......Thank you !!
Hello...same question here...any videos of the rear brake? keep the good work on, your videos ar very very helpfull...
Couldn't you just ride the bike and actuate the ABS and bleed the brakes I have done this on my car so I didn't have to use the dealership laptop to get the air out of my abs module
Great Video, but I have a Dumb question, ... What size wrench (for the Bleeder nut) will fit the 2017 Road King? I'm not sure & don't want to strip the bolt in the middle of trying to pull this process off. Thanks in advance, your videos are great insights to different ways of doing things.
Any thoughts on the tools out there to communicate with the abs module for folks who would like to flush the pump and accumulator of old fluid?
What I have seen is that you change the fluid first. Then take the bike out and hit the brakes hard to activate the ABS. This will open the ABS and the fluid in the ABS will release into the system. Then you rebleed and fill again. This time you should have pretty much all new fluid in the system
@@guitarkidd9840 Yeah I’ve heard of that method. Apparently Snap-On and some other code readers can activate the ABS pump to make sure it purges.
Can't get the lines to take any Fluid. Syringe just builds up pressure around the bleeder valve. What should I check?
This is the same issue I had. I never got it to take any fluid at all. Is your bike RDRS equipped as well?
I have had this happen too. Try opening the bleeder valve a little more. It has helped me in the past.
@@aospwill It is and that was the issue. Had to take it to HD unfortunately.
I bled the front brakes. Everything felt fine but at slow maneuvering in the driveway, I noticed a couple of times, the front brake lever fell flat to the handlebar. I let it go and pulled the front brake again and it felt fine. Good and tight.
Any ideas what could cause that?
great video.does it work with a sportster forty eight?
any info on Rushmore bikes with linked system i want to change my calipers
so i couldn't just do this method to both calipers? sorry for the simple questions im newbie
@@HillCountryCustomCycles I'm preparing to order an ape kit from you guys for a 2018 Heritage. So this method will not work for the newer Harleys w/ the linked braking system?
+Q Nguyen Yes, it will work just fine. Air always goes up. I have a video on a 2018 Softail with ABS where we use this method
Hill Country Custom Cycles awesome! Waiting on my 14” HCC Hell Bent bars to come as we speak. Look forward to getting them installed.
friend do you know how to fix error code U1040 Road king 2008?
I’m fixing to do my first brake job on my Harley.. this was great to see !!
Read through 100 comments and I don't see anything about the rear brakes. Can we do this with the rear brakes?
Does this work with a 2019 Tri Glide after I install my new bars, mid brake lines, and upper brake line? I was told by the dealer that I had to take it to them because of the linked reflux breaking system.
TYVM I bought your extension kit so time to get bleeding.
Just wanted way, I have had non stop issues trying to bleed my brakes on my M8 Lowrider S . Had the pump handle, the vacuum pump, all put air in my lines . Ordered your little tool, took 5 days, and 5 minutes to actually do the work. My bikes been down 3 weeks until I saw your video. I did push to hard on the left side and shit fluid across the room lol
Great product thanks man
So this worked for you? Nice. Im gonna be getting a 2020 Fat Boy, and was looking for a way to skip the dealership fee for bleeding the brakes.
FranBunnyFFXII yeah it was an Instant, worked so good. Just be slow I shot that shit through hard at first and it rained in my garage.. but successful
@@emiller2236 Good shit.
Great to find a way around the dealership computer and fees.
FranBunnyFFXII exactly
I replaced my OEM rear lower brakeline with a new 3" extended line and need to bleed the new line on my ABS on 2014 HD Breakout. What is the best method to do this without causing air into the ABS system?
What if I changed my front brakes and now they won’t grab what do I gotta do to fix them to grab
When you show a close up on bleeder valve with syringe hose attached, is this air in the hose I see?
I know this is just a demo but that's only one caliper the front has two calipers , you are supposed to bleed both correct?
Yes.
Does it matter on the front brakes which side you do first?
What if you replaced your lower lines
I looked on your website and was unable to locate the tube and syringe part you were using. Any help as to where to look as I am sure I'm over looking it.
+scotty gafford Sorry for the delayed response, but we actually don't have those up on the website yet to order. They are included in some bar kits per customer request. But you're welcome to call the shop (512-264-7333) and we can send one out to you no problem. Just ask for the bleed kit.
Hill Country Custom Cycles how much is the bleed kit?
Now does that work the same for rear brake
YUP
What if it's dual brakes? Do them at the same time?
I have a 16 fxdwg, I'm putting bigger bars on it. if i only replace the lines going from the bars and to the caliper, not the lines to the abs, would this method work? or would i need to be concerned about something going wrong?
+Michael Hill You should be all good just replacing the line to the bars.
I want to know what bars those are?
Don't need to use the scan tool?
Very nice !! I think you just built a better mouse trap
If I’m replacing my front brake line, I have to remove the lines going from the front manifold to the abs module. Does reverse bleeding refill those lines as well?
I have the same question
I got lost when he said, "We've got a new brake line..." and he pointed rearward. We do? Where? And how does it have no air in it? Is it vacum sealed? What if *I* don't have a new brake line? How does that impact this process? How *much* does one remove from the master cylinder? Oh, and how does he avoid any air getting into the system when he initially connects the hose from the brake fluid bottle and connects it to the bleeder valve? No air on the transfer? HUGE air bubble @ 2:11
Just ordered! Thanks for the great info and videos!
Did you listen to what you said you have you pumped it you said you filled the line with air how would you feel the line with are need to listen to it again what you said
I'm replacing lines, calipers, master cylinder on a 2015 FLXHS. Can I do this without having to pay the dealer to bleed it?
+word302 Sorry for the delayed response, but no, you shouldn't have the pay the dealer to bleed it. As long as you slowly push all the air out of the lines with the fluid, you should have properly working brakes. When the master cylinder fills is nearly full and you're done bleeding, you may just want to give some slow pumps to the lever (like in the video) to assure all the air has been pushed up and out of the line. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the response. Would it be a good idea to replace the lines one at a time? For example, replace the upper line and master cylinder and reverse bleed like in your video. Then replace the lower line and caliper and do a conventional bleed out the caliper. Or just replace everything and reverse bleed the entire system?
+word302 just replace it all. You could do about 1/3 of the syringe through 1 caliper, then do the rest through the other caliper. This way, your still pushing fluid up the entire time, and you get air out of both sides. Hopefully that makes some sense.
How did you drain the fluid?
Kenneth Estes another syringe
Should you blead the left side first
I was told when I replace my bars and add new lines I will need to present my computer after I bleed the lines. Is this true? I have a 2015 street glide special. It's the only thing holding me back from doing the job. Thanks!
+Nathan Terey Not at all true. Watch our brake bleeding video for ABS. It is simple
Does this work with rear brakes with ABS?
Yes. I did it this way and had ZERO issues.
You always reply right away that's awesome I appreciate it!!
I'm buy a 2015 Fatboy is this the same proceedure.
+Plymouth Rock Yes, this will work perfectly on that bike
Thank you. Simple but informative.
But you still have old fluid in the ABS module.
No need check abs module?
The dealership is telling me on my 2021 bike needs to be bled by a computer, is that true?
Really? He states right at the beginning what the deal is. I changed and bled my ABS brakes per these instructions and it worked perfectly. If you don't feel confident, then by all means pay the dealership to do it for you. Ride Safe.
@@heybruh3274 what year bike did you do it on?
I had to take my 2021 rdrs bike to dealer. I think it has something to do with the linked braking, but not 100% sure.
diameter of the hose?
So just do the right side and it bleeds entire front system?
No you have to do right and left calipers.
2014 street glide non abs changed out the pads twice and never bleed brakes after install , never had any issues beside dust
Thanks for sharing. If i have 2 front calipers, do i have to do this method in each one? Thanks in advance.
Dude thanks for the Wildside music!!! Motley rules! Thanks for the video
Thank you for posting this video!
isn't that going to introduce air into the abs pump from the new caliper hose though. or do you just push it through from the bottom anyway.
+Christopher Wilkie it's going to get air in the abs block either way you go because you replaced both hoses. Now air is on the top and bottom. The nice thing about pushing fluid from the bottom is the fact that air always wants to go up. When you use a vacuum bleeder from the bottom, you are pulling fluid down and fighting the air that wants to go up. And because those lines run horizontal along side the frame, it makes it even worse.
I’m changing out my levers and master cylinders on my 2016 road glide Special.Will this method work? Or do you have a video showing how to do that .
+Erik Eide ya, this method will work fine
Hey just got 2019 road king Special I changed the bars while I was at it I changed the cluth and break lines I'm ready to bleed them can I use this method thanks
Yes, this will work perfectly
What about the rear
Any codes that will need to be removed after? with dealer tool?
+Bar Stool Phreak We apologize for the late reply, but there shouldn't be any codes that need to be removed after this process.
I wish my S.G didn't have abs .
Alot of peoples fail because they just pooter around and never trigger the abs and it just sits there and stagnates
Thanks for the info brother, I appreciate it.
+Christopher Wilkie No problem, glad we could help.
This video should be renamed "How to bleed one third of your Harley's brake system, while completely ignoring the ABS module."
I think you misspoke. I believe you said we jave already filled the line up with air. I think you meant to say fluid.
Epic fail. The title is misleading. This video does not address the fluid that remains in the ABS modules. They need to be cycled so new fluid gets into them and the system needs to be flushed and bled again. Not bleeding the modules leads to many ABS problems.
So do it like this . Go out and do intentional hard braking , trigger the abs . Back to step 1 , rinse and repeat .
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