Thanks Every Day Man for the video. My '09 Street Glide Rear Brake was the problem. I watched this video because I am not going to pay Harley ransome money for their bad design. So for $43.33 l eliminated Harleys failure. To bypass the ABS on my Street Glide I bought 4 Dorman Part Number 785-439D brake line fittings that cost me $14.25 at Advance Auto Store in Burleson Texas ( don't forget DOT 4 Brake Fluid). I then went to Home Depot in Burleson, Tx and bought (4) Everbilt Part # LFA-712 1/8" MIP x 1/8" FIP Brass Street Elbows, At Home Depot in the same section I bought (2) Everbilt Part Number LFA-714 1/8" MIP Hex Nipples and a roll of teflon tape. Cost $29.08. My retro part fit nice and secure behind the side cover panel. Be patient, make it look as neat as you can, be sure no lines are chaving on any wiring or metal, bleed the lines , I used my HVAC Vacuum Pump but a Mighty Vac works well too. When you are through you have a brake system that will not fail you in a time of need. Be safe out there. The ABS Light Blinks but when I begin forward motion the ABS light goes out as it should.
Thank you sir. Activated my rear abs over the summer and my back brake has never worked correctly since. 2010 has the service bulletin to flush and fill so I brought it to my local dealer and he said I need an abs block at $800 for just the block. I know what I'm doing tomorrow...
Thanks man! I got my fittings done today. Tomorrow I will take out the block and install the fittings to bypass. I think as I remove the block and install the fittings, Ill fill the couplings with dot 4 as I attach them, that will introduce less air into the system and make it easier to bleed... Just a thought. May make it easier for the bleeding/filling process. Great video!
I appreciate the leg work you did on finding out what Union coupler to get. I got to looking at it and I thought why not use one coupler for both lines. I end up tweaking the line just a little and it worked. I put one line on one side and other line on the other side of the Union.
I bypassed the ABS on my 2012 Road King Police I changed both front and back cables.Your way looks like the less expensive and easier way I wish I would have saw this video before I did it.I'm in Metairie Louisiana Geaux Tigers 🐅Daytona bound in the morning
I ended up just using the Dorman couplings and bent my lines just a bit to fit nice in the abs box. Without using the Street els . Just bolted them together. And it made room for the power commander and everything lol. Nice work brother. 👏
Thanks for the vid. My 11 roadglide has been down nearly a year for the rear brake lever locking up over that pos. I just ordered those fittings, I'm excited to be riding again. I refuse to pay high $ for another box that will probably fail again.
I had my first and only free flush done a couple of yrs ago under recall on my 2010 Ultra SE. I just watched videos on bypassing. If it's locked up turn the key on (I don't know if really necessary) tap the anti lock valve till it frees up (one guy marked it up real good) once it frees up the pull the fuse and that's it. The other guy unplugged the connector. (I think the fuse is better) Now then some say every time they ride they exercise the anti lock at least once front and back. (I've read that this batch of blocks had corrosion issues seizing the moving parts causing them to stick when activated) In my case (still working) I think a flush is in order. It 'said you have to have the computer to get the old fluid out of the anti lock unit. This other "expert" says you don't as long as you don't get any air in it. in one video I saw the computer chattering the valve. Maybe just loosening the valves up? I've heard some shops don't take the time to hook up the computer for a flush. (time is money for a fixed price job) You can't trust anyone. I'd feel cheated that my valves weren't exercised.
Move fluid out of solenoids by hard braking - front - rear then both - think a dozen times or so then bleed old fluid out and buy a cheap hydraulic fluid water tester -
great video i didnt think i would be the first to do this so i looked for a video to help me out. i am going to try just one female coupler and connect the brake lines at each end(in a straight line) so i dont have to build the u shape. ill let you know if it works. mines a 08 roadking same problem front brake locked open. i gave a thumbs up take care
Very nice details on the portable gen. video. Comments were turned "off" so I am commenting here. Thanks so much and ALL the safety details. Also, the steps after you want to turn off the ge. were great. Thanks!!
It looks like a previous owner of my bike bypassed the abs as well but I still have the abs light on, how to get rid of that so I can get it inspected?
Great video am afraid its above my pay grade but was a good watch,A test drive at end might have been good. I come down a very steep gravel driveway on my 2013 Road King,it feels like rear brakes kind of slip,I believe this is the ABS that causes this and working properly,The bike is mint only 5000 khm. My Ford Ranger did this,it was as simple on it as just pulling sensor off each wheel. My hill is just absurdly steep,and ABS not helpful
My 2010 Electra glide has 49k on the clock and back the abs light came on. The dealership said it is the front sensor. We replaced it 3 times now and the other day I went out and the light came back. Same code! I’m thinking of replacing the brake lines with stock non abs hoses
just did the bypass !! they work great this is the third time i had the same problem i used brake line tubeing and coiled it to fit .. One question how did you get ABS LIGHT to go out ??
In my experience, the ABS module locks up after the fluid is replaced, the system flushed, and the brakes bled. When this is done, the last step is to hook up the scan tool to have the module clear out any air bubbles from the brake lines. If the last step is skipped, within a short time, the module will lock up. My local Harley mechanic only charges me $150.00 (labor) plus another ten bucks for the fluid. The job takes about an hour or less, which is pretty reasonable, and you can keep your anti-lock braking system. You just need to find a good, trustworthy mechanic.
My 2013 roadking is having problems, I can barely pull the front brake with both hands. I reverse bled them the other day, so we'll see. The lever pull got easier, but when I pull the front lever as hard as I can the abs still works but it kind surges, the wheel wont lock up though so I guess it works. I might just put old school brake lines on it though and bypass all the abs, as dumb as that sounds. Too much money for something that doesn't work great. My bike has 5000 miles on it and I can say it hasn't been problem free. :(
@@EverydayMan As an update bleeding didn't work. For a while it seemed normal, but the front lever is locked up and I can't even budge it. No front brakes at all. I am going to bypass the module. Crazy they put out something that fails to a non-operational state. I could understand if the abs part fails, but the whole braking system? That seems like a serious liability. I misspoke, my bike has 6000 miles on it...
But what releases the brake handle so you can squeeze it again, how does that module physically stop you from pressing the brake. I have the same problem with my rear brakes.
2 questions! 1. Do you have to remove BOTH front and rear? 2. Will the ABS light stay on, afterwards? Ok 3 questions 3. What do you do with the wires/plugs?
@jaybourbon8608 get new NON-abs lines. Take off old abs lines, install new non-abs lines. Bleed new lines. Plug the ports on the abs control unit and leave it on the bike and plugged in. The system isn't that smart, it will keep the light off.
My HD does not have ABS but this video was nice to watch. I do have a question. Rather than using the U setup would it be possible to put the inlet on the top of the union and the outlet on the bottom? I hate ABS on cars, trucks, and I would never want it on a bike. Just more crap to go wrong
I'm dealing with this right now. I bought a used 2009 RK police bike w 17K miles. Rode all summer and then front brake lever seized up. I used a pump and flushed both front and rear. The fluid was over 4% moisture rating and looked like bad milk. No... I'm not kidding. Previous moron/owner very likely never changed the fluid.
Grazie per il video, ho fatto la stessa cosa ed ora la moto è tornata a frenare.. Ora ho un'altro problema, non funziona la luce dello stop, mica è dipeso dal fatto che ho staccato dell'Abs?
I just did this to my bike. Thanks for the video. I was just wondering if you have an update and if it's still working out for you I don't plan on this being a long term thing but who knows I don't have the money to fix it properly now probably won't in the future either lol
@@EverydayManloved the video you are very talented I just subscribe to your site. My buddy has the same bike and he took it to Harley and there was a recall and they still won’t fix it. Glad you took the time to figure that out you are what makes America great.
It didn’t affect the computer system by unplugging the ABS module? I heard that the lights won’t turn off if you unplug the unit because the ECM and BCM doesn’t recognize it.
yes as you see in video i almost ran in to car and the inter section when abs locked up no warning no break 25 thou 09 road glide harly should be shot for piss pore engineering, even the truck abs went down but still have breaking so that tells me harly is default close and truck default open when theirs a problem! seen other videos of the same year on trikes man lost his wife due to abs accident im also a sport rider curve
I am have the same issue hard rear brake pedal. Since I know it is a rear brake issue my problem is on the right side of the module. I broke the back right bolt loose and tried to press the rear pedal and still hard so I tightened back up did the same to the right front bolt and pressed the pedal again and the pedal went to the floor and fluid came out. I got fluid going in but not coming out going to the rear caliper. I got the part number you shared but what were the other fitting street brass 90’s???
To bypass the ABS on my Street Glide I bought 4 Dorman Part Number 785-439D brake line fittings that cost me $14.25 at Advance Auto Store in Burleson Texas ( don't forget DOT 4 Brake Fluid). I then went to Home Depot in Burleson, Tx and bought (4) Everbilt Part # LFA-712 1/8" MIP x 1/8" FIP Brass Street Elbows, At Home Depot in the same section I bought (2) Everbilt Part Number LFA-714 1/8" MIP Hex Nipples and a roll of teflon tape. Cost $29.08. My retro part fit nice and secure behind the side cover panel. Be patient, make it look as neat as you can, be sure no lines are chaving on any wiring or metal, bleed the lines , I used my HVAC Vacuum Pump but a Mighty Vac works well too. When you are through you have a brake system that will not fail you in a time of need. Be safe out there. The ABS Light Blinks but when I begin forward motion the ABS light goes out as it should.
The couplings that fit the banjo bolt is the pic I showed. The other fittings are just pipe threads I got from the hardware store just to make the u shape.
Thanks for the video bub, I just love tapped mine a few times and it started working. Gonna flush it and try it. If it happens again its bypass time. Im wondering if you find what wires complete the circuit for abs light and connect those if your abs light will go out?? Hmmmm. Just a thought. I'll research and let ya know. Thank you bub.
I get everything here I think except for one thing… if the banjo bolts are 10mm, did you change the bolts to American standard or something? I was just wondering how the mm bolt screwed into the brass fittings??
Quick question, so since you bypassed the module, does your abs light flash or stay solid lit during operation of the motorcycle? Im def gonna bypass my abs unit, but i just dont want to see that annoying light on my dash
Hey Everyday Man I'm from Canada and don't have a lot of good auto part supply stores in my area, my question is is the are adapters metric threads on one end and standard on the opposite end? also what thread type and size are the street elbows? Great work around for Harleys shit ABS system. Thanks
Thanks Every Day Man for the video. My '09 Street Glide Rear Brake was the problem. I watched this video because I am not going to pay Harley ransome money for their bad design. So for $43.33 l eliminated Harleys failure. To bypass the ABS on my Street Glide I bought 4 Dorman Part Number 785-439D brake line fittings that cost me $14.25 at Advance Auto Store in Burleson Texas ( don't forget DOT 4 Brake Fluid). I then went to Home Depot in Burleson, Tx and bought (4) Everbilt Part # LFA-712 1/8" MIP x 1/8" FIP Brass Street Elbows, At Home Depot in the same section I bought (2) Everbilt Part Number LFA-714 1/8" MIP Hex Nipples and a roll of teflon tape. Cost $29.08. My retro part fit nice and secure behind the side cover panel. Be patient, make it look as neat as you can, be sure no lines are chaving on any wiring or metal, bleed the lines , I used my HVAC Vacuum Pump but a Mighty Vac works well too. When you are through you have a brake system that will not fail you in a time of need. Be safe out there. The ABS Light Blinks but when I begin forward motion the ABS light goes out as it should.
@@TexasCool I really like your post I have a 2012 street glide with the same problem in his video I got the parts from O'REILLY'S but couldn't find the right elbows your part list was or should I say great thanks hope to be in the road again soon
Thinking of doing this to my bike bit I just talked to someone that said they did this and they have to adjust it every few months is it still working out for you.
@@petergold5701 is your module filled and plugged up? My understanding is as long as it’s not anything electrical with module you can fill it plug it and it will go out. That’s what I did and I’m light free once it’s rolling
@@sohnetowing9743 Currently filled and plugged like this guy did it only I did mine front and back... Plugged the output/caliper line side and used the Master Cylinder side of the abs module to terminate/cap a stacked double banjo bolt... front brakes seem fine and trying to compare my rear brake response/spongy-ness to my '03 Fatboy which never had abs... When I got the '10 Streetglide the abs light was on but brakes worked fine... so I never looked further than a busted wire to the abs module up under the fairing... Figured F' it I never had abs on any of my bikes so WTF Right? Then after sitting one winter I got that rock hard front brake lever, got the recall notice from DOT and did the bleed which was never done on the recall... I DO NOT TRUST the hacks at HD to diagnose SHIT !!! Much less when it comes with a price tag of $1000 !!! Soooo bleeding worked fine with new fluid and all for quite some time... Then I happened to grab my front brake HARD in panic stop in highway traffic... HFS !!! Locked the front wheel, managed to let of before the front slid out on me and cleaned my underwear later ! So this season decided to do the bypass... (Before I need one on my heart LoL) Soooo I am wondering if using the abs block as termination/union point is the best... Like what if pressure somehow bleeds back through the abs module??? Hmmm who knows it wasn't designed that way.... Sooo rather than using all those adapters in your video I am going to order Caps for the m10x1 double banjos and eliminate the abs block completely... Sooo now about the abs light... Since I never found out WHY the abs light was on in the first place there MAY be multiple issues... So I figure running just the hydraulics and completely eliminating the abs module "PERHAPS" the light will go out... If not I'm just pulling the fuse... Trying to keep the plumbing to a minimum so here's how the other guy did it and think it's pretty cool but I think I'm gonna order some caps from Belmetric and go straight lines and be done rather than use those U shaped adapters you posted... BTW if you're on Facebook I'm Pete Richards and run a page called Long Island Harley Riders Friend me if you like and I'll send photos of my setup for abs as an alternate for your design... and here's how that other guy did it... Thanks for posting yours !!!! th-cam.com/video/ggyaL2u15ic/w-d-xo.html
@@EverydayMan awesome, its my priority tomorrow to find the parts. Its suppose to be nice weather this week. Keep it shiny side up brother. Where you from?
Got a question on your champion generator. For some reason I can ask a question on that video. Sorry for asking here. You said you have a 4 ton unit. What is the breaker amps on your ac blower. I see is a single pole. On your 30amp breaker for your generator. What gauge of wire you using? Thanks
My brake light activates through the wire harness connected to the abs module. I bypassed the one side and left the module in and now my brake light will not work. Any ideas?
@@EverydayMan Thanks for the reply. I have tried leaving it unplugged. I also found some time ago if you pull the fuse for the ABS the brake lights won't work. Mine is a 2009 Electra glide and has the Panacea L.E.D. Taillight System. There is also a Badlands module under the seat which is hard wired in. All of which was installed by a previous owner.
Thanks Every Day Man for the video. My '09 Street Glide Rear Brake was the problem. I watched this video because I am not going to pay Harley ransome money for their bad design. So for $43.33 l eliminated Harleys failure. To bypass the ABS on my Street Glide I bought 4 Dorman Part Number 785-439D brake line fittings that cost me $14.25 at Advance Auto Store in Burleson Texas ( don't forget DOT 4 Brake Fluid). I then went to Home Depot in Burleson, Tx and bought (4) Everbilt Part # LFA-712 1/8" MIP x 1/8" FIP Brass Street Elbows, At Home Depot in the same section I bought (2) Everbilt Part Number LFA-714 1/8" MIP Hex Nipples and a roll of teflon tape. Cost $29.08. My retro part fit nice and secure behind the side cover panel. Be patient, make it look as neat as you can, be sure no lines are chaving on any wiring or metal, bleed the lines , I used my HVAC Vacuum Pump but a Mighty Vac works well too. When you are through you have a brake system that will not fail you in a time of need. Be safe out there. The ABS Light Blinks but when I begin forward motion the ABS light goes out as it should.
The threads were M10x1.0 on the street fittings? I couldn't find any fittings that fit the brake line couplers.
Thanks for sharing p/n’s - great idea to carry if needed
Thank you sir. Activated my rear abs over the summer and my back brake has never worked correctly since. 2010 has the service bulletin to flush and fill so I brought it to my local dealer and he said I need an abs block at $800 for just the block. I know what I'm doing tomorrow...
Thanks man! I got my fittings done today. Tomorrow I will take out the block and install the fittings to bypass. I think as I remove the block and install the fittings, Ill fill the couplings with dot 4 as I attach them, that will introduce less air into the system and make it easier to bleed... Just a thought. May make it easier for the bleeding/filling process. Great video!
I appreciate the leg work you did on finding out what Union coupler to get. I got to looking at it and I thought why not use one coupler for both lines. I end up tweaking the line just a little and it worked. I put one line on one side and other line on the other side of the Union.
Thanks, that sounds like a good idea!
I bypassed the ABS on my 2012 Road King Police I changed both front and back cables.Your way looks like the less expensive and easier way I wish I would have saw this video before I did it.I'm in Metairie Louisiana Geaux Tigers 🐅Daytona bound in the morning
I thought about changing the brake lines and figured I give this a shot! So far so good!
Front wheel locking up doesn't sound like a safety feature 🤣
Glad you got it working!
You right!!
I ended up just using the Dorman couplings and bent my lines just a bit to fit nice in the abs box. Without using the Street els . Just bolted them together. And it made room for the power commander and everything lol. Nice work brother. 👏
Every day man thank you for your help I’m headed to get the parts save me 1200 bucks buddy thank you
Thanks for the vid. My 11 roadglide has been down nearly a year for the rear brake lever locking up over that pos. I just ordered those fittings, I'm excited to be riding again. I refuse to pay high $ for another box that will probably fail again.
Glad I could help!
Gorgeous bike. I had an '09 I wish I hadn't sold.
I had my first and only free flush done a couple of yrs ago under recall on my 2010 Ultra SE. I just watched videos on bypassing. If it's locked up turn the key on (I don't know if really necessary) tap the anti lock valve till it frees up (one guy marked it up real good) once it frees up the pull the fuse and that's it. The other guy unplugged the connector. (I think the fuse is better) Now then some say every time they ride they exercise the anti lock at least once front and back. (I've read that this batch of blocks had corrosion issues seizing the moving parts causing them to stick when activated)
In my case (still working) I think a flush is in order. It 'said you have to have the computer to get the old fluid out of the anti lock unit. This other "expert" says you don't as long as you don't get any air in it. in one video I saw the computer chattering the valve. Maybe just loosening the valves up? I've heard some shops don't take the time to hook up the computer for a flush. (time is money for a fixed price job) You can't trust anyone. I'd feel cheated that my valves weren't exercised.
Move fluid out of solenoids by hard braking - front - rear then both - think a dozen times or so then bleed old fluid out and buy a cheap hydraulic fluid water tester -
You can make the ABS light go away by cutting the orange and white wire on the plug going into the RPM gauge. At least on my 2011 Ultra.
I wouldn't know. And I hate to tell you to cut wires without being sure.
Rpm or mph? On my 2010 the abs light is on the mph gauge
Did it work out ok
great video i didnt think i would be the first to do this so i looked for a video to help me out. i am going to try just one female coupler and connect the brake lines at each end(in a straight line) so i dont have to build the u shape. ill let you know if it works. mines a 08 roadking same problem front brake locked open. i gave a thumbs up take care
Yeah, let me know how it works.
well did it work for ya?
Very nice details on the portable gen. video. Comments were turned "off" so I am commenting here. Thanks so much and ALL the safety details. Also, the steps after you want to turn off the ge. were great. Thanks!!
Thank you
Right On Steve... I did the same thing. The generator video was awesome and I decided to come here to sound off about it. Great Minds Think Alike!
It looks like a previous owner of my bike bypassed the abs as well but I still have the abs light on, how to get rid of that so I can get it inspected?
Been having issues with my "09" ultra classic, appreciate your video bud. Harley Davidson wants $1800 bucks to fix it. Thanks again
I hope it helps. Harley wants a bunch of money then the same thing is gonna happen.
There was a recall for this. Some dealers were raping you by charging you and Harley. They made money in both ends
It happens because y’all don’t change your brake fluid regularly.
A better shot of the fitting you created sure would be a big help.
Great video am afraid its above my pay grade but was a good watch,A test drive at end might have been good. I come down a very steep gravel driveway on my 2013 Road King,it feels like rear brakes kind of slip,I believe this is the ABS that causes this and working properly,The bike is mint only 5000 khm. My Ford Ranger did this,it was as simple on it as just pulling sensor off each wheel. My hill is just absurdly steep,and ABS not helpful
My 2010 Electra glide has 49k on the clock and back the abs light came on. The dealership said it is the front sensor. We replaced it 3 times now and the other day I went out and the light came back. Same code! I’m thinking of replacing the brake lines with stock non abs hoses
That's my next move.
Thank you for posting this it has really helped out and have you had any leaks yet
I just did it and I'm at work today. I took it for a short ride with no problems.
How did you get the ABS light to go off after the bypass? Thanks for the video.
Curious if you saw my video before you did this and got the idea from me?? That would be AWSOME because I love you channel?!
I definitely watched your video before doing this! I wouldn't have tried it without it.I already trashed the old module...
I was told you could just unplug the fuse for the abs-traction control. Is that tru?
I think ABS is a great thing IF its post 2020. Before that abs did not work in corners where its needed most
Great video! Will be doing this on mine as I'm having the same problem. Also, hello from Slidell!
Hey, thanks for watching!
just did the bypass !! they work great this is the third time i had the same problem i used brake line tubeing and coiled it to fit .. One question how did you get ABS LIGHT to go out ??
I didnt
its the souvenir my friend
@EverydayMan if you leave the module on the bike and plugged in, block off the ports and the light stays off
In my experience, the ABS module locks up after the fluid is replaced, the system flushed, and the brakes bled. When this is done, the last step is to hook up the scan tool to have the module clear out any air bubbles from the brake lines. If the last step is skipped, within a short time, the module will lock up. My local Harley mechanic only charges me $150.00 (labor) plus another ten bucks for the fluid. The job takes about an hour or less, which is pretty reasonable, and you can keep your anti-lock braking system. You just need to find a good, trustworthy mechanic.
Just did mine. Skipped the elbows and just attached the banjo bolts to both ends of the unions.
My 2013 roadking is having problems, I can barely pull the front brake with both hands. I reverse bled them the other day, so we'll see.
The lever pull got easier, but when I pull the front lever as hard as I can the abs still works but it kind surges, the wheel wont lock up though so I guess it works.
I might just put old school brake lines on it though and bypass all the abs, as dumb as that sounds. Too much money for something that doesn't work great.
My bike has 5000 miles on it and I can say it hasn't been problem free. :(
That's what mine was doing. Just a straight brake line would work.
@@EverydayMan As an update bleeding didn't work. For a while it seemed normal, but the front lever is locked up and I can't even budge it. No front brakes at all. I am going to bypass the module.
Crazy they put out something that fails to a non-operational state. I could understand if the abs part fails, but the whole braking system? That seems like a serious liability.
I misspoke, my bike has 6000 miles on it...
But what releases the brake handle so you can squeeze it again, how does that module physically stop you from pressing the brake. I have the same problem with my rear brakes.
The valve in the module seizes closed. Then u can't press the brake.
2 questions!
1. Do you have to remove BOTH front and rear?
2. Will the ABS light stay on, afterwards?
Ok 3 questions
3. What do you do with the wires/plugs?
Here for the same question worried about that abs light driving me crazy
@jaybourbon8608 get new NON-abs lines. Take off old abs lines, install new non-abs lines. Bleed new lines. Plug the ports on the abs control unit and leave it on the bike and plugged in. The system isn't that smart, it will keep the light off.
My HD does not have ABS but this video was nice to watch.
I do have a question. Rather than using the U setup would it be possible to put the inlet on the top of the union and the outlet on the bottom?
I hate ABS on cars, trucks, and I would never want it on a bike. Just more crap to go wrong
The threads are different on each side of the union.
Havin same issue on 2011 ultra classic, front lever jammed open. I’ll give it a go. Cheers
how did it work
You got yourself a new subscriber! What is that awesome outro music??
Thanks! It's acually just non copyright music from Adobe Rush editing software
As a prospective Harley buyer, this is a ridiculous issue. Great video though lol.
Thanks!
I’d like to see the parts you used a little better up close because I’d like to do the same on my 08 street glide
Be careful as not all fittings are as strong even if they look they same.
very nice ,, im going to do the same , you are a champ...
Thanks!
Great Video Thank you!
I'm dealing with this right now. I bought a used 2009 RK police bike w 17K miles. Rode all summer and then front brake lever seized up. I used a pump and flushed both front and rear. The fluid was over 4% moisture rating and looked like bad milk. No... I'm not kidding. Previous moron/owner very likely never changed the fluid.
What is even more stupid is having to change brake oil every 2 years.
Grazie per il video, ho fatto la stessa cosa ed ora la moto è tornata a frenare.. Ora ho un'altro problema, non funziona la luce dello stop, mica è dipeso dal fatto che ho staccato dell'Abs?
No, questo è un problema separato.
Thank you I going to do the same due my bike is having front brake issue, even I can’t push front brake
Same problem I had!
You don't need ABS on a bike if you know how to ride, pure and simple. ABS just makes a bike more idiot proof, and adds unnecessary complexity.
I agree
What if you find a wreck bike that doesn't have abs and use the brake line
Good Job Paulo fron Brazil
Thanks!
What about using a double banjo boat
I'm not familiar with them
I just did this to my bike. Thanks for the video. I was just wondering if you have an update and if it's still working out for you I don't plan on this being a long term thing but who knows I don't have the money to fix it properly now probably won't in the future either lol
I wouldn't keep it as a permanent fix. It worked for a long time but I would get brake lines and not use the abs at all.
@EverydayMan thanks that's what I'll do know of any website that might sell them already bent, or is it something you think I will have to make
@rickytipton6839 if the bike has abs as an option you will be able to find lines for a non abs bike.
Did the ABS LIGHT COME ON WHEN THE BRAKE LOCKED UP?
Mmm you think a shop manual would help
I have a 2016 road glide special can I take the abs modular out the bike & by pass it like the 2015 on down
I really don't know.
Trouble is the abs light stays on? How can one make it go away
Some guys are leaving the block in place and unplugging it. That may work.
With the research I have done Dot 4 brake fluid will eat through Teflon tape. How long ago and how many mile do you have on it since the repair?
Did it last year. Not sure how many miles. It's holding up.
Could I please get the part number for the banjo bolt I could see the part number thank you
Does the abs light stay on when this is done?
So it's been 3 years.... how's it working out??
Great video I'm having the same problem with my front brake lever I have a 2013 road King I live in Louisiana wondering if you could do mine?
No sorry, I don't do any side work.
@@EverydayManloved the video you are very talented I just subscribe to your site. My buddy has the same bike and he took it to Harley and there was a recall and they still won’t fix it. Glad you took the time to figure that out you are what makes America great.
Would the ABS be on from now on ?
What other fitting did you use besides the parts that you show and I need 4 of them right
what did you do with the electric connection...did the bike show any abs codes after the bypass? thanks,
Plug is still there and the abs light is on.
Did it turn off the abs light on console?
Did the bike start after you removed the abs? Or does a code have to be reset??
It starts after.
@@EverydayMan Awesome, nice hack and keep us from having to take our bikes to Harley Dealer Hell and spend More Money! Ride Safe, Thanks Again
It didn’t affect the computer system by unplugging the ABS module? I heard that the lights won’t turn off if you unplug the unit because the ECM and BCM doesn’t recognize it.
yes as you see in video i almost ran in to car and the inter section when abs locked up no warning no break 25 thou 09 road glide harly should be shot for piss pore engineering, even the truck abs went down but still have breaking so that tells me harly is default close and truck default open when theirs a problem! seen other videos of the same year on trikes man lost his wife due to abs accident im also a sport rider curve
I am have the same issue hard rear brake pedal. Since I know it is a rear brake issue my problem is on the right side of the module. I broke the back right bolt loose and tried to press the rear pedal and still hard so I tightened back up did the same to the right front bolt and pressed the pedal again and the pedal went to the floor and fluid came out. I got fluid going in but not coming out going to the rear caliper. I got the part number you shared but what were the other fitting street brass 90’s???
To bypass the ABS on my Street Glide I bought 4 Dorman Part Number 785-439D brake line fittings that cost me $14.25 at Advance Auto Store in Burleson Texas ( don't forget DOT 4 Brake Fluid). I then went to Home Depot in Burleson, Tx and bought (4) Everbilt Part # LFA-712 1/8" MIP x 1/8" FIP Brass Street Elbows, At Home Depot in the same section I bought (2) Everbilt Part Number LFA-714 1/8" MIP Hex Nipples and a roll of teflon tape. Cost $29.08. My retro part fit nice and secure behind the side cover panel. Be patient, make it look as neat as you can, be sure no lines are chaving on any wiring or metal, bleed the lines , I used my HVAC Vacuum Pump but a Mighty Vac works well too. When you are through you have a brake system that will not fail you in a time of need. Be safe out there. The ABS Light Blinks but when I begin forward motion the ABS light goes out as it should.
So in your video you say the fitting is 3/8 but on the box its says 3/16 i'm assuming 3/16 ??
The box is correct
@@EverydayMan Thanks for the reply . Got the parts ready to replace. Installing last union no threads in one end . Anyway thank again Everyday man
What about Using shot Brake line from O’Riley Bending it in a U-boat and put the couplings on it will that work
I'm sure it would
And was it separate fitting you had to get or was that u part one part
The couplings that fit the banjo bolt is the pic I showed. The other fittings are just pipe threads I got from the hardware store just to make the u shape.
@@EverydayMan thank you very helpful best one I have seen
Thanks for the video bub, I just love tapped mine a few times and it started working. Gonna flush it and try it. If it happens again its bypass time.
Im wondering if you find what wires complete the circuit for abs light and connect those if your abs light will go out?? Hmmmm. Just a thought. I'll research and let ya know. Thank you bub.
Thanks!
Are you using a brake line and building it to a couple If not what are you using for your compliment
Using factory brake lines
Seems like you took the long way around... Just connect banjo bolt fittings top and bottom of the dorman fitting. only two fittings needed...
I get everything here I think except for one thing… if the banjo bolts are 10mm, did you change the bolts to American standard or something? I was just wondering how the mm bolt screwed into the brass fittings??
They were sized correctly. I didn't change the bolts.
Thanks! Great video.
What did you use to join the 90 degree elbows at the opposite ens from where the banjo bolts attach. It looks like copper tubing
They are "street" 90s. They have male threads on one end and female on the other.
Yep bout to do ot today have yu had any problems since yu have done this
No, it's working fine.
How the bypass of security on .that model
Oh and I don’t know if that keeping my drake from coming on or not the problem
What was the coupler number and size
Ok, but did it work? Did the bike start with the abs unplugged? Did it stop when driving?
Yes
So did it throw a code and your engine come on after you did at that ?
No. No check engine light.
Quick question, so since you bypassed the module, does your abs light flash or stay solid lit during operation of the motorcycle? Im def gonna bypass my abs unit, but i just dont want to see that annoying light on my dash
It stays on
@@EverydayMan appreciate the quick reply, gonna look into what wire needs cut. Great video!
Hey Everyday Man
I'm from Canada and don't have a lot of good auto part supply stores in my area, my question is is the are adapters metric threads on one end and standard on the opposite end? also what thread type and size are the street elbows? Great work around for Harleys shit ABS system. Thanks
I would be lying if I told u I remember. The part number in video is for O'Reilly 's auto parts. I would think you could check it that way.
Thanks Every Day Man for the video. My '09 Street Glide Rear Brake was the problem. I watched this video because I am not going to pay Harley ransome money for their bad design. So for $43.33 l eliminated Harleys failure. To bypass the ABS on my Street Glide I bought 4 Dorman Part Number 785-439D brake line fittings that cost me $14.25 at Advance Auto Store in Burleson Texas ( don't forget DOT 4 Brake Fluid). I then went to Home Depot in Burleson, Tx and bought (4) Everbilt Part # LFA-712 1/8" MIP x 1/8" FIP Brass Street Elbows, At Home Depot in the same section I bought (2) Everbilt Part Number LFA-714 1/8" MIP Hex Nipples and a roll of teflon tape. Cost $29.08. My retro part fit nice and secure behind the side cover panel. Be patient, make it look as neat as you can, be sure no lines are chaving on any wiring or metal, bleed the lines , I used my HVAC Vacuum Pump but a Mighty Vac works well too. When you are through you have a brake system that will not fail you in a time of need. Be safe out there. The ABS Light Blinks but when I begin forward motion the ABS light goes out as it should.
@@TexasCool I really like your post I have a 2012 street glide with the same problem in his video I got the parts from O'REILLY'S but couldn't find the right elbows your part list was or should I say great thanks hope to be in the road again soon
What windshield do you have?
Thinking of doing this to my bike bit I just talked to someone that said they did this and they have to adjust it every few months is it still working out for you.
It worked for a long time, but I will be getting new brake lines.
Wondering about the Elect. plug, Being the abs module is Computer driven, was there any issues with it not being plugged in?
Abs light stays on.
My abs light stays on all the time now so how do you get the light to go out
My light is in too. I dont know.
I posted a video. If you can manage to fit module back inside cover and plug it in the light will go off once rolling as normal. Best of luck...
@@sohnetowing9743 Mine did not go off... FYI
@@petergold5701 is your module filled and plugged up? My understanding is as long as it’s not anything electrical with module you can fill it plug it and it will go out. That’s what I did and I’m light free once it’s rolling
@@sohnetowing9743 Currently filled and plugged like this guy did it only I did mine front and back... Plugged the output/caliper line side and used the Master Cylinder side of the abs module to terminate/cap a stacked double banjo bolt... front brakes seem fine and trying to compare my rear brake response/spongy-ness to my '03 Fatboy which never had abs... When I got the '10 Streetglide the abs light was on but brakes worked fine... so I never looked further than a busted wire to the abs module up under the fairing... Figured F' it I never had abs on any of my bikes so WTF Right? Then after sitting one winter I got that rock hard front brake lever, got the recall notice from DOT and did the bleed which was never done on the recall... I DO NOT TRUST the hacks at HD to diagnose SHIT !!! Much less when it comes with a price tag of $1000 !!! Soooo bleeding worked fine with new fluid and all for quite some time... Then I happened to grab my front brake HARD in panic stop in highway traffic... HFS !!! Locked the front wheel, managed to let of before the front slid out on me and cleaned my underwear later ! So this season decided to do the bypass... (Before I need one on my heart LoL) Soooo I am wondering if using the abs block as termination/union point is the best... Like what if pressure somehow bleeds back through the abs module??? Hmmm who knows it wasn't designed that way.... Sooo rather than using all those adapters in your video I am going to order Caps for the m10x1 double banjos and eliminate the abs block completely... Sooo now about the abs light... Since I never found out WHY the abs light was on in the first place there MAY be multiple issues... So I figure running just the hydraulics and completely eliminating the abs module "PERHAPS" the light will go out... If not I'm just pulling the fuse... Trying to keep the plumbing to a minimum so here's how the other guy did it and think it's pretty cool but I think I'm gonna order some caps from Belmetric and go straight lines and be done rather than use those U shaped adapters you posted... BTW if you're on Facebook I'm Pete Richards and run a page called Long Island Harley Riders Friend me if you like and I'll send photos of my setup for abs as an alternate for your design... and here's how that other guy did it... Thanks for posting yours !!!!
th-cam.com/video/ggyaL2u15ic/w-d-xo.html
2023,June. Only the back breaks pedal is stuck are yours still working
will this work on a 2016 dyna street bob? wondering if it will fit behind the abs cover area of a dyna?
It should
Well abs locked up again. Time for bypass. Any leaks from yours yet bub?
No, ots working great.
@@EverydayMan awesome, its my priority tomorrow to find the parts. Its suppose to be nice weather this week. Keep it shiny side up brother. Where you from?
@@travispenrod2259 South Louisiana
How long did it last?
A few years
Few years later do you still have the Harley? How has it ridden with the abs bypassed? Still functional?
I don't have it anymore.
@@EverydayMan how did it ride for you in the mean time before getting rid of it? Considering doing the same to my 09 road king
@Jose-fo1xo it lasts a while. But you'll probably want to plan on replacing the lines some time in the future.
@@EverydayMan thanks man I really appreciate your response. Great content
It's been almost a year. How are the brakes?
Brakes are good.
How has this worked long-term so far?
It has worked great!
Got a question on your champion generator. For some reason I can ask a question on that video. Sorry for asking here. You said you have a 4 ton unit. What is the breaker amps on your ac blower. I see is a single pole. On your 30amp breaker for your generator. What gauge of wire you using? Thanks
The single pole is for the blower. the compressor is a 2 pole 30 amp. I used #10
@@EverydayMan single pole is 30amp?
@@marcoolazaran9193 no 20
@@EverydayMan ok. My breaker is 70amp. Cause of 15kw heating
@@marcoolazaran9193 your not gonna be able to run your heater on a portable generator
My brake light activates through the wire harness connected to the abs module. I bypassed the one side and left the module in and now my brake light will not work. Any ideas?
Try leaving it plugged in.
@@EverydayMan Thanks for the reply.
I have tried leaving it unplugged. I also found some time ago if you pull the fuse for the ABS the brake lights won't work.
Mine is a 2009 Electra glide and has the Panacea L.E.D. Taillight System. There is also a Badlands module under the seat which is hard wired in. All of which was installed by a previous owner.
did you pull the abs relay and fuse…???
No
After bypassing the abs . How did you get the abs light to go out in the gauge?
The light is on.
@@EverydayMan does cruise control still work with the bypass?
@@Baggerdaddy702 yes
Where did you get the fittings? I cannot find any fittings that have a M10x1.0 thread. HELP!
O'Reilly auto. I have a picture of the part number in the video
@@EverydayMan I got those fittings, I mean the brass fittings.
friend do you know how to fix error code U1040 Road king 2008?
No I don't, sorry.
My phones acting up. Can ya give a list of the parts ya need?
Wanna do this on my 14 ultra limited before the weekend
You need 4 Dorman 785 4390 couplings. Then just go to the hardware store to get fittings to connect them.
The Dormant part # 785 439D, respectfully.
I bought mine , but could not find the part #.
The D looks like a 0.
@@scottshort5299 oops, sorry about that.
Got got the fittings on and everything bled. Brakes work and hold pressure, but my brake lights stay on all the time. Any ideas?
It's the switch. That happened to mine a while back.
@@EverydayMan the one down by the exhaust? I had that recall done years ago, maybe it crapped out again.
@@JJSW-gy1ki that's the one. I had to have mine hanged a few months ago. Brake light was staying on and the cruise control wasn't working.
@@EverydayMan same here. I thought the junk abs box was making it do it. I get one ordered. Thanks again!
@@EverydayMan new switch on, brake lights still stay on. I'm stumped now
Why don't you just run a new line from master cylinder to caliper? Or just disconnect the abs sensor..
The valves in the abs module were frozen and I couldn't operate the brake lever. Next time I will get new brake lines.
So all i have to do is unplug a fuse for my 2011 road glide and my traction control with turn off?
I dont know. I dont have traction control.
Well i mean abs
@@trallytraltv6014 you can. I couldn't because I count use my front brakes.