Helo Nick my kids 63 is running pretty good once the carb base gasket was resolved. Hoping you could advise on a power seat issue. The 63 Birds used a 4 wire motor and the 64 used a 3 wire motor. In 64 Ford eliminated the green wire. Wondering could one use a 64 driver seat frame on a 63 seat?
Hey Miguel, I don't know if you can do that. If the seat bolt holes and floor holes match up to 64-66 Thunderbird, I don't see why you couldn't do it. I've never tried it or heard of anyone doing it so you'd have to figure it out. So, I think your only obstacle is the placement of the seat to power seat mechanism bolts and seat mechanism to floor bolt holes. Good luck.
Nick, have a question for you about AC. So my 65 was originally factory air. When I bought the car the compressor and clutch was missing. Took it to mechanic, who put new compressor and clutch, reconnected hoses, replaced vacuum switch for compressor. But still didn’t work as refrigerant was circulating. Everything in front of firewall has been replaced. So now wants to replace what’s in/under the dash. From your video, I see you have removed the heater box without removing the dash. Same for the AC components? Or does the dash need to be removed to get at the AC stuff (like all my technical language?). Your thoughts are greatly appreciated
Hey Gary, If you want to pull the evaporator or rebuild the plenum under the dash, then you must pull the dash. The heater box can come out and the vacuum system can be rebuilt without pulling the dash. It is my recommendation that if you replaced all the components in the engine compartment, then you must have the evaporator flushed and the only way to do that is to pull it and send it out for refurbishment. Good luck.
Thank you Nick. Pulling the dash was my fear. But, the dash has a crack, so maybe a blessing in disguise 🥸. What’s the name of the shop you’ve used for dash rebuilds? Dash only in the San Fernando Valley?
Hello Nick great, I was wondering if you have a part number for the carb base gasket to tje c2 autolite? I'm getting the vacuum leak from the left front corner of carb.
Hey Miguel, I don't have any of the part numbers any more. That info is long gone with my old shop. Try Napa, match some up and you should find the right gasket. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 So after some research looks like the gasket for the c2 autolite is a felpro 1909. It has a 1.5" hole diameter. Ordered it see what happens when I get it.
@@miguelortega7799 Hey Miguel, I looked that up online and you can see that the gasket is thicker between the holes than other gaskets. I'm assuming this is what you need because you are having the same problem that I show in my video right. Looks right to me. Thanks.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Hello Nick so the fel pro 1909 base gasket worked under the autolite C2. No vacuuum leaks. But I think I'll upgrade to a holley later down the line. Thanks for video showing the vacuum leaks.
Nick, I am currently running an Edelbrock 1604 and I want to swap it with a Holly. Assuming I already have improver spacers installed now. What carb and spacers would you recommend I get? I have a 65 with a 390. Also, anything that might be needed like linkage.
Hey Christopher, this video only shows 1966. 1965 is different and uses a thick aluminum wedge shaped spacer, with water and PVC ports. You need to get this spacer and all the correct gaskets. Call the Birds Nest, they can set you up. I recommend the Holley street warrior carb. Its the same aluminum one that I show in this video. Very good carb and its 600 CFM's just like the original Autolite. Good luck.
@@ChristopherRisden-r7i Hey Christopher, no, but you do need to modify the end of the original throttle to carb linkage rod to allow for a cotter pin or clip to hold it into the carb. The fuel line needs to be repositioned for any Holley modification too.
@@ChristopherRisden-r7i Hey Christopher, your other comment where you mention the water hoses cut off didnt come through, you had a question but I cant see it. Please resend it.
Nick, so on my wedge spacer who ever had the car before removed the water lines going to it. Other then maybe a leak why would someone cut this out and is this something I should reconnect?
Hi, The video is very clear on spacers, but try as I have, I can’t locate any of the recommended spacers (Bakelite, heat shield, etc) anywhere. Running OEM Autolite 4100. I have added an electric choke, which alleviates the need to flow water thru the inclined, factory base plate at all. Of course I can plug and bypass the OEM base plate, but looking at your “system solution,” would rather replace it with a properly inclined, crankcase ventilated base plate WITHOUT water pass through and WITH robust heat insulation you recommend. Do you know a source for the video’s heat deflection plate or an alternate? Should I substitute the Bakelite base for OEM? If to duplicate your stack, can you refer us to vendors? Thanks mucho.
Hey Kai, in the video I show installing the aluminum heat shield and I was hoping that would help reduce the heat to the carb but it didnt, I still had vapor lock. Crappy gas was my biggest problem with this car. You didnt say which year your car is. 58-61 and 66 use the small wedged spacer plate like I showed in the video. 63-65 use a larger aluminum wedge shaped spacer plate with the boss for the PCV and fitting for water flow through. My recommendation is to use the factory spacer plate. Call Birds Nest and they can sell you the correct spacer plate if yours is missing. The aluminum heat shield I got on eBay and I show the part number in the video. I wont use another one since it did nothing to cure my vapor lock problems. As a matter of fact, neither did the aluminum Holley Street Warrior carb. Its really an uphill battle with vapor lock when your at altitude and using crappy pump gas. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thanks for the QUICK reply. My TBird is 1963. I have the OEM aluminum base plate. A shame that your tries vs vapor lock so disappointing. I guess I’ll plug water channel (or bypass completely), and was considering Edelbrock 9265 for insulation. Is that one you found wanting too? BTW, you are my go to guy on TH-cam, and new to this car, I can suggest a load of vids I’d appreciate. But I’ll leave it to you.
@@kaipalchikoff9447 Hey Kai, the kit I used is a 108-70 Holley heat shield kit. It didnt help. I never use any Edelbrock parts on a Thunderbird, they are for Chevys lol. Im not an Edelbrock fan and dont use their stuff. However, if it works for you, thats okay, its just my preference. Thanks for the support.
Hey there. I have a question. I detached my autolite from my 390 in my 1965 Thunderbird. Got a rebuilt one and I'm about to replace it. I need to get the right gasket but I also ordered an Edelbrock 9266 heat insulator spacer. I THINK it'll work. (Gasket, spacer, gasket) but just wanted to double check. I'd love to see a video about placing the carburetor on, attaching the throttle lever and making the adjustments to fire up the car.
The original carburetor spacer plate is aluminum and wedge shaped and has a boss at the rear for the PCV system which requires a special gasket. If you put on an Edelbrock product, your eliminating the wedge shape and the PCV system. The PCV system is there to ventilate the crank case. I have seen engines blow up (so to speak) and blow the valve covers right off since gas fumes built up in the engine and had nowhere to go and ignited all because of no PCV system. The wedge shape is because the intake manifold surface where the carburetor fits tilts forward slightly and the wedge shape is necessary to level the carb. If you eliminate that, the carb will not sit flat and could run poorly. It will change the level of the floats. It will certainly alter the way the carb is functioning when the float levels are tilted. I guess you could put the Edelbrock spacer on top of the original spacer. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thanks for replying. So I'll return this edelbrock spacer they sent me. I am seeing four holed spacers online, custom for the autolite, but even then, would the hood close? Just want to keep it as cool as possible. I'm not a mechanic but since i can't afford one I'm doing it myself. Watching videos. Disengaged the old autolite. Just got a rebuilt one and about to put it back on the same way I took the other one off. Would you consider doing a video on how to adjust the choke and idle and proper reinstallation technique on an autolite? I know you're busy and that's asking a lot. I'm having fun working on my own car but when you do it yourself you hesitate because you don't want to make mistakes. Thanks again for responding and I've subscribed to your channel.
@@JOHNNYCASHMONEY23 You subscribes? Your in trouble now lol. Ive often thought of doing a tuneup video which would include the items your asking for. I cant do it right now but in the next few months. That probably doesnt help you much but, like you said, I do have a full plate at the moment. I will definitely keep that in mind. With the stock spacer plate and air cleaner, the top of the air cleaner just brushes the hood pads which are about 1 1/2" thick there abouts. So without the hood pad, maybe you have about 1" or so of clearance to the hood.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours. I used a piece of cork to make a gasket for my 65 390 to seal the carb to the manifold (carb is original 4 bbl). If a piece of the cork gasket gets sucked down the manifold , will I have a problem?
I wouldn't think so because its soft cork, cant really do any damage except maybe if it were large enough it could block the intake passage? But otherwise it would pass through the engine and burn up. However, you never want to have anything go through the engine just in case.
A customer of mine was having vapor lock issues (we are at altitude 7000 ft) and he bought the Holley Street Warrior because it is aluminum and dissipates heat better then a regular metal carburetor and he said this solved his problem. I was also having vapor lock problems with my 66 so I purchased one and it helped but did not solve the problem completely. Also, I was using the Holley 1848-1 which is about 475 CFM. The stock Autolite 4100 is 600 CFM and the Holley Street Warrior is also 600 CFM so it made sense at the time to go with that carb because I thought it would perform better being more CFM's, but to my surprise, the Holley 1848-1 performs just as well as the Street Warrior. I've had nothing but good luck with the Holley 1848-1 and I've had problems with the Street Warrior so I took it off and put the 1848-1 back on my 66. I still have to deal with my vapor lock issues. The radiator in my car is very old and I'm going to go with the high efficiency radiator core. I think this will help cool the engine down and solve my vapor lock issues.
@@ihave35cents95 I have it on my own 66 now and I was driving back to Colorado Springs from Denver and I almost didnt make it, had vapor lock all the way home, 70 miles of almost dying and loosing speed. Its Avgas from now on. Its not the carbs fault, its the crappy stinkin' pump gas!
Hey Eli, using regular gas, improper timing, carbon buildup in the cylinders, poor maintenance on the engine in general. Don't use regular gasoline, it doesn't have the octane necessary for a higher compression engine such as the 390. Id resolve those issues first and you will probably fix the problem. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 spot-on I jumped up to 93 and it got rid of my dieseling. I even bought a borescope to check the top of the Pistons but it was just the gas
@@ihave35cents95 I'm going to make a proper fuel video soon. I'm only going to use Avgas from now on. That is airplane fuel 110 octane leaded gas. No more pump gas for me ever!!!
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 I finally did my dual-core master cylinder conversion today what a pain in the ass. I've had old cars before but these things are really hard to work on or it might be that I'm just getting older. I had to take a hammer to the rear corner of the valve cover to make it clear but these are high-rise valve covers that I'm throwing away anyway when I yank the engine to put on the original so I wasn't worried about it. Still don't have brakes because the new master cylinder came with half inch and 9/16 bore so I got to get adapters
Good Music and a Vintage Car.... nice !!!!!! The White Album and a Tbird
Thank you. Love the Beatles!
Helo Nick my kids 63 is running pretty good once the carb base gasket was resolved. Hoping you could advise on a power seat issue. The 63 Birds used a 4 wire motor and the 64 used a 3 wire motor. In 64 Ford eliminated the green wire. Wondering could one use a 64 driver seat frame on a 63 seat?
Hey Miguel, I don't know if you can do that. If the seat bolt holes and floor holes match up to 64-66 Thunderbird, I don't see why you couldn't do it. I've never tried it or heard of anyone doing it so you'd have to figure it out. So, I think your only obstacle is the placement of the seat to power seat mechanism bolts and seat mechanism to floor bolt holes. Good luck.
Nick, have a question for you about AC. So my 65 was originally factory air. When I bought the car the compressor and clutch was missing. Took it to mechanic, who put new compressor and clutch, reconnected hoses, replaced vacuum switch for compressor. But still didn’t work as refrigerant was circulating. Everything in front of firewall has been replaced. So now wants to replace what’s in/under the dash. From your video, I see you have removed the heater box without removing the dash. Same for the AC components? Or does the dash need to be removed to get at the AC stuff (like all my technical language?). Your thoughts are greatly appreciated
Hey Gary, If you want to pull the evaporator or rebuild the plenum under the dash, then you must pull the dash. The heater box can come out and the vacuum system can be rebuilt without pulling the dash. It is my recommendation that if you replaced all the components in the engine compartment, then you must have the evaporator flushed and the only way to do that is to pull it and send it out for refurbishment. Good luck.
Thank you Nick. Pulling the dash was my fear. But, the dash has a crack, so maybe a blessing in disguise 🥸. What’s the name of the shop you’ve used for dash rebuilds? Dash only in the San Fernando Valley?
@@garyfain7235 Hey Gary, Just Dashes in Van Nuys California. They do great work but are expensive. Good luck.
Thanks Nick, I’ll give them a call and let them know you sent me.
Hello Nick great, I was wondering if you have a part number for the carb base gasket to tje c2 autolite? I'm getting the vacuum leak from the left front corner of carb.
Hey Miguel, I don't have any of the part numbers any more. That info is long gone with my old shop. Try Napa, match some up and you should find the right gasket. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 So after some research looks like the gasket for the c2 autolite is a felpro 1909. It has a 1.5" hole diameter. Ordered it see what happens when I get it.
@@miguelortega7799 Hey Miguel, I looked that up online and you can see that the gasket is thicker between the holes than other gaskets. I'm assuming this is what you need because you are having the same problem that I show in my video right. Looks right to me. Thanks.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Hello Nick so the fel pro 1909 base gasket worked under the autolite C2. No vacuuum leaks. But I think I'll upgrade to a holley later down the line. Thanks for video showing the vacuum leaks.
@@miguelortega7799 Hey Miguel, your welcome. Good luck.
Nick, I am currently running an Edelbrock 1604 and I want to swap it with a Holly. Assuming I already have improver spacers installed now. What carb and spacers would you recommend I get? I have a 65 with a 390. Also, anything that might be needed like linkage.
Hey Christopher, this video only shows 1966. 1965 is different and uses a thick aluminum wedge shaped spacer, with water and PVC ports. You need to get this spacer and all the correct gaskets. Call the Birds Nest, they can set you up. I recommend the Holley street warrior carb. Its the same aluminum one that I show in this video. Very good carb and its 600 CFM's just like the original Autolite. Good luck.
Does the street warrior carb require and additional linkage to work?
@@ChristopherRisden-r7i Hey Christopher, no, but you do need to modify the end of the original throttle to carb linkage rod to allow for a cotter pin or clip to hold it into the carb. The fuel line needs to be repositioned for any Holley modification too.
@@ChristopherRisden-r7i Hey Christopher, your other comment where you mention the water hoses cut off didnt come through, you had a question but I cant see it. Please resend it.
Nick, so on my wedge spacer who ever had the car before removed the water lines going to it. Other then maybe a leak why would someone cut this out and is this something I should reconnect?
Hi,
The video is very clear on spacers, but try as I have, I can’t locate any of the recommended spacers (Bakelite, heat shield, etc) anywhere.
Running OEM Autolite 4100. I have added an electric choke, which alleviates the need to flow water thru the inclined, factory base plate at all.
Of course I can plug and bypass the OEM base plate, but looking at your “system solution,” would rather replace it with a properly inclined, crankcase ventilated base plate WITHOUT water pass through and WITH robust heat insulation you recommend.
Do you know a source for the video’s heat deflection plate or an alternate? Should I substitute the Bakelite base for OEM? If to duplicate your stack, can you refer us to vendors? Thanks mucho.
Hey Kai, in the video I show installing the aluminum heat shield and I was hoping that would help reduce the heat to the carb but it didnt, I still had vapor lock. Crappy gas was my biggest problem with this car. You didnt say which year your car is. 58-61 and 66 use the small wedged spacer plate like I showed in the video. 63-65 use a larger aluminum wedge shaped spacer plate with the boss for the PCV and fitting for water flow through. My recommendation is to use the factory spacer plate. Call Birds Nest and they can sell you the correct spacer plate if yours is missing. The aluminum heat shield I got on eBay and I show the part number in the video. I wont use another one since it did nothing to cure my vapor lock problems. As a matter of fact, neither did the aluminum Holley Street Warrior carb. Its really an uphill battle with vapor lock when your at altitude and using crappy pump gas. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426
Thanks for the QUICK reply. My TBird is 1963. I have the OEM aluminum base plate. A shame that your tries vs vapor lock so disappointing.
I guess I’ll plug water channel (or bypass completely), and was considering Edelbrock 9265 for insulation. Is that one you found wanting too?
BTW, you are my go to guy on TH-cam, and new to this car, I can suggest a load of vids I’d appreciate. But I’ll leave it to you.
@@kaipalchikoff9447 Hey Kai, the kit I used is a 108-70 Holley heat shield kit. It didnt help. I never use any Edelbrock parts on a Thunderbird, they are for Chevys lol. Im not an Edelbrock fan and dont use their stuff. However, if it works for you, thats okay, its just my preference. Thanks for the support.
Hey there. I have a question. I detached my autolite from my 390 in my 1965 Thunderbird. Got a rebuilt one and I'm about to replace it. I need to get the right gasket but I also ordered an Edelbrock 9266 heat insulator spacer. I THINK it'll work. (Gasket, spacer, gasket) but just wanted to double check. I'd love to see a video about placing the carburetor on, attaching the throttle lever and making the adjustments to fire up the car.
The original carburetor spacer plate is aluminum and wedge shaped and has a boss at the rear for the PCV system which requires a special gasket. If you put on an Edelbrock product, your eliminating the wedge shape and the PCV system. The PCV system is there to ventilate the crank case. I have seen engines blow up (so to speak) and blow the valve covers right off since gas fumes built up in the engine and had nowhere to go and ignited all because of no PCV system. The wedge shape is because the intake manifold surface where the carburetor fits tilts forward slightly and the wedge shape is necessary to level the carb. If you eliminate that, the carb will not sit flat and could run poorly. It will change the level of the floats. It will certainly alter the way the carb is functioning when the float levels are tilted. I guess you could put the Edelbrock spacer on top of the original spacer. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thanks for replying. So I'll return this edelbrock spacer they sent me. I am seeing four holed spacers online, custom for the autolite, but even then, would the hood close? Just want to keep it as cool as possible. I'm not a mechanic but since i can't afford one I'm doing it myself. Watching videos. Disengaged the old autolite. Just got a rebuilt one and about to put it back on the same way I took the other one off. Would you consider doing a video on how to adjust the choke and idle and proper reinstallation technique on an autolite? I know you're busy and that's asking a lot. I'm having fun working on my own car but when you do it yourself you hesitate because you don't want to make mistakes. Thanks again for responding and I've subscribed to your channel.
@@JOHNNYCASHMONEY23 You subscribes? Your in trouble now lol. Ive often thought of doing a tuneup video which would include the items your asking for. I cant do it right now but in the next few months. That probably doesnt help you much but, like you said, I do have a full plate at the moment. I will definitely keep that in mind. With the stock spacer plate and air cleaner, the top of the air cleaner just brushes the hood pads which are about 1 1/2" thick there abouts. So without the hood pad, maybe you have about 1" or so of clearance to the hood.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours. I used a piece of cork to make a gasket for my 65 390 to seal the carb to the manifold (carb is original 4 bbl). If a piece of the cork gasket gets sucked down the manifold , will I have a problem?
I wouldn't think so because its soft cork, cant really do any damage except maybe if it were large enough it could block the intake passage? But otherwise it would pass through the engine and burn up. However, you never want to have anything go through the engine just in case.
Oh, Merry Christmas and happy new year John. Have a great day.
Why did you choose the Holley Street Warrior.
A customer of mine was having vapor lock issues (we are at altitude 7000 ft) and he bought the Holley Street Warrior because it is aluminum and dissipates heat better then a regular metal carburetor and he said this solved his problem. I was also having vapor lock problems with my 66 so I purchased one and it helped but did not solve the problem completely. Also, I was using the Holley 1848-1 which is about 475 CFM. The stock Autolite 4100 is 600 CFM and the Holley Street Warrior is also 600 CFM so it made sense at the time to go with that carb because I thought it would perform better being more CFM's, but to my surprise, the Holley 1848-1 performs just as well as the Street Warrior. I've had nothing but good luck with the Holley 1848-1 and I've had problems with the Street Warrior so I took it off and put the 1848-1 back on my 66. I still have to deal with my vapor lock issues. The radiator in my car is very old and I'm going to go with the high efficiency radiator core. I think this will help cool the engine down and solve my vapor lock issues.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 I put a street Warrior on as well and I've had good luck with it very easy to tune but I'm not at your altitude either.
@@ihave35cents95 I have it on my own 66 now and I was driving back to Colorado Springs from Denver and I almost didnt make it, had vapor lock all the way home, 70 miles of almost dying and loosing speed. Its Avgas from now on. Its not the carbs fault, its the crappy stinkin' pump gas!
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 have you thought about using a vapor separator fuel filter and rigging your gas tank for a return line
What would cause it to “diesel” back to life after shutting off ?
Hey Eli, using regular gas, improper timing, carbon buildup in the cylinders, poor maintenance on the engine in general. Don't use regular gasoline, it doesn't have the octane necessary for a higher compression engine such as the 390. Id resolve those issues first and you will probably fix the problem. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 spot-on I jumped up to 93 and it got rid of my dieseling. I even bought a borescope to check the top of the Pistons but it was just the gas
@@ihave35cents95 I'm going to make a proper fuel video soon. I'm only going to use Avgas from now on. That is airplane fuel 110 octane leaded gas. No more pump gas for me ever!!!
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 I can see that if it's not a daily driver
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 I finally did my dual-core master cylinder conversion today what a pain in the ass. I've had old cars before but these things are really hard to work on or it might be that I'm just getting older. I had to take a hammer to the rear corner of the valve cover to make it clear but these are high-rise valve covers that I'm throwing away anyway when I yank the engine to put on the original so I wasn't worried about it. Still don't have brakes because the new master cylinder came with half inch and 9/16 bore so I got to get adapters
In the background is the Beatles "Everybody's got Something to Hide Except For Me and My Monkey"
Well, my monkey wasnt there but my kitty was.