Came here after watching Steve Magnante vid...wanted to see the mechanism for the sequential t-bird lights. Pretty neat! The appeal of old cars is that many things such as this can be torn down, cleaned, lubed, repaired, and put back into service. So much more fun than remove/replace where the new replacement is inevitably less durable with thinner metal, etc. Only thing I would have done extra is to remove the motor and get some lube/grease in the little gear case.
Hey Mitch, you forgot that new stuff is also 10 times more expensive. Yes, that is the good thing about old cars, you can fix just about anything yourself at home. New cars are far more comfortable and reliable but when they break down, start mortgaging the home. thanks.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Agreed! The new (garbage) replacements/reproductions are more expensive too! I have a 72 MGB GT. When I restored it 10 years ago, I was amazed at how every switch (lights, fan, hazard, brakes, etc) was easily disassembled, cleaned, lubed, and reassembled. The copper pieces were so thick and robust. I've seen modern reproductions where the metal was very thin copper or even cheaper brass - pure junk!
@@nateerb3114 Yes, I watches some of his videos too, very informative and he knows his shit. Very sad to see the condition of most of the cars he critiques. Most are now only junk. Sad.
GREAT close up camera work, Nick. Amazing. I tried fixing my sequential assembly a while back, but it only stayed fixed for a while after I cleaned the contacts. I guess some or one of the points were burned out, as you say. I cheated and bought the Cougars Unlimited system, which has worked trouble free since. I like watching the electro/mechanical cam system in operation. That's the way our world used to work, and that's a part of the appeal of old cars.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I remember yrs back when mine crapped out ,Pat Wilson thunderbird who isn't far from me ,replaced it with an electronic one. Worked much better . But i do like the way the old technology is like the above comments.
Thanks for the info. I will do an episode on my channel here on my 65 Thunderbird on this later on. Kinda cold right now. Two things, I have sequential lights on my on Charger and is run by reversing the wires from one to another in sequence. Easy but effective. Second, I would put money on those points are just solder balls. I will try it on mine if needed by just adding solder back onto the point. A dab should do it. Just like new.
Hey Dark Earth, the points appear to be like a rivet that is riveted to the lever. They are flat where they make contact. If you repaired one with solder, youd have to file it flat so it mates with the other side properly. I had a viewer make a comment that armor all is the cure all, and just a spray here and there will make it look like new, like his cracked and peeling dash pad. So just spray some armor all on it and it will be like new. Some peoples kids! Looking forward to seeing your video. Thanks.
Great video Nick! My 65’s brake lights recently stopped working; sequentials and running lights worked. I opened the bag and found my relay was fried and the plug to relay had burnt. I watched Joe’s video and installed the ISO/Bosch relay and it worked like a charm!! Cheers.
Hey Nick, thanks for adding this to go along with John's video. Now that the cat is out of the "bag" , the repair does not look difficult at all. If the motor and it's reduction gear assembly can be removed from the plastic piece, one could possibly disassemble and fix, or soak the front gear assembly to get rid of the noise. George B. in Michigan
I remember the reduction gears in there, its complicated. I messed with it early on in my career and gave up trying to fix them. I had too many good used ones to pick from anyway.
Oohhhhh Nick, I just did this job on my 65 and you didn't tell us that a lot of swear words were required to get those tiny springs back on! I got it done. Thank you very much for the videos!!
Those were very primitive compared to today’s electronics. I know a guy who was a Ford Tech in those days. He said he learned how to fix one of these units and he got to the point where he could get them working in just few minutes. He made great money since the other guys in his shop hated to work on them.
Hey Craig, yes I did very well in the early days when the electronic units were not available so people had no choice but to have theirs fixed. I don't remember the last time I had to fix one, maybe on my own car/?? Like I said, I don't remember its been so long. Thanks.
Thank You Nick , haven’t jumped into the sequentials yet but everything you do is well over informative, I built a 67 stang from the ground up and didn’t need one video but this technical , meticulous luxury vehicle of the 60s is a whole nother chapter and your doing a helluva job walking us thru it brother , have Great day Nick 🤙
I'm gonna be opening that bag of worms real soon(reluctantly). This vid as well as John's vid have been very reassuring in tackling this beast of a problem these birds have. Hopefully I can get the brakes as well as the sequentials goin so I can start enjoying the fruits of my labor. Once again, you've provided excellent detail...now I just gotta find the time to climb into that coffin trunk & gitter done ;)
Oh, its not that bad. I will admit that at my age, its getting harder and harder to crawl into the trunk. Its getting harder to do a lot of things as John himself admits. Good luck and thanks.
My brake lights are not working. The first thing I repaired was the brake light switch (replaced it about a year ago). Then, last fall, I opened up my directional relay and cleaned all the contacts. Did the same to the motorized sequencer (as you detail in this video). Brake and turn signals were working fine after I did this. Fast forward to this year and I replaced all my cracked tail light sockets and replaced the bulb with LED bulbs. After I did this, the brake lights and the turn signals were still working fine with all the original parts. Then after about a week, the brake lights quit working. With the exception of the center left turn signal, the turn signals still work, but not the brake lights. When I step on the brake, after about 1-2 seconds, I will hear a relay contact chattering rapidly. I am thinking I have a loose ground (which I have checked) or something is drawing down the voltage so that a relay will not fully engage. Have you ever run into this? Some are suggesting I check the relay for the front turn signal indicators.
Hey, I'm sure I've seen a similar problem. Id check the relay and grounds, make sure they are okay. If the fender light relay, located under the dash, is not plugged in, the turn signals will fail. I don't remember if it affects the brake lights. What I do know is that even if the fender light relay is bad, if it is plugged in, everything will still work except the fender lights. The 3 units in the trunk, brake light relay, sequential motor and sequential relay, must all be grounded together and then all must be grounded to the car. I hope that has helped you. Thanks.
Thanks for the tutorial on the sequencer. Mine was converted by a previous owner to an electronic unit. Works well, reliably so far but it is at least 9 years old at this point. I also have the original electromechanical assembly and have run it and used it when troubleshooting a failed stop light relay. They are fun to watch. However, my turn signal related problem is the fender mounted indicators. The relay under the dash works intermittently. Tapping it can sometimes get it to function. Any suggestions on where to get a replacement or substitute?
Thanks for the great close up video. I'm trying to trouble shoot why my turnsignals won't stay on. I'll look into this. That might be a dump question, but wouldn't a drop of electrical solder on each point (previously cleaned) work here?
So obviously getting one's hands on a sequential unit to replace burnt contacts is going to get worse and worse as time goes on. What about replacing those old burnt contacts with points drilled off of a new distributor points set? Drill off the burnt contacts and solder on the distributor points instead of replacing the entire contact assembly? Or something similar, doesn't have to be distributor points. My original unit works fairly well, but I'm sure I'll have to do some maintenance on it in the near future. Thank you so much for documenting this stuff. This knowledge is disappearing.
I would hope there are enough used sequential motors left for parts but if not, there is always the new solid state units. People are creative so it would not surprise me if someone found a fix for the burnt contact. Thanks.
You mean the square relay next to the sequential motor with all the wires? No, they are different and not removable. They can be cleaned though. I've disassembled the relay and cleaned all the contacts before. Its not a for sure fix but worth a try if your trying to save some bucks.
My 65 sequential signals are working fine, but lately they've started to make noise. It's a circular noise not quite as loud as in this video. Any tips on addressing this?
Its probably the sequential motor. Remember that yours is in the trunk wrapped up in a bag behind the back seat so you will not hear it quite like in my video with the motor right next to the camera. The only thing that can make noise is the sequential motor other then the clicking sound of the relay under the dash. The sequential motor is just getting old and is not serviceable. Of the hundreds of 65-66 Thunderbirds that I have driven that have the original sequential bag, almost all make noise. I have not found a way to service or lube the motor itself.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thanks for your helpful reply. I guess as long as it is working fine, I shouldn't worry too much about the noise. It's not too loud anyway. It's just a small hum like sound with three quick, click sounds repeated.
Hi Nick, I just opened the sequential motor put of an unopened set pouch and I see a lot of black dust, like chalk and don't know what that is. Any ideas?.
I think it is carbon from the sequential motor. As the brushes wear down, the dust from them builds up in the bag. Thats my guess since it cant be generated by any other parts.
Awesome! Thank you so much! My two outside lights in the sequence are both out (with new bulbs), so I think this may be the reason. Time to do some surgery! Is there any way to fix the burnt tabs? Thanks again for doing this video Nick! -Robert
Hey Robert, once the points are burned, thats it. It removes material and I dont really know how you would replace that. I guess the degree that they are burnt is important, you might be able to file it flat or file off the burnt area. Some are burnt so bad the point is gone completely. Id check the bulb sockets too. That is a more common problem with these cars. John (joernone) had this issue as well and his videos show how he corrected it. Birds Nest sells new looms with new bulb sockets. Thank you.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Oh, that’s great. So I’m getting light from all the bulbs when the headlights are on if I remember right. So I’m taking it that the sockets are good. Hopefully I can file the point as you suggested. I’ll open it up and take and look. Thanks again and Merry Christmas Nick!
Hey Michael, them contacts are small and fragile and where would you get the parts to repair them? Most of the Tbird suppliers sell used parts and I would think you could get some from them. I also have some too. So, what I'm saying is that it should not be too hard to find good used ones to replace your burnt ones. Good luck.
Try taking apart the motor to lube it up, that is a major problem , Any idea where to get the best buy on the electronic setup In Canada these are big bucks
I did try that a few times many moons ago and it failed miserably. Now I just buy the solid state replacement. I get them from the Birds Nest. I don't know of any place that offers them cheaper. The manufacturer is Cougars Unlimited so you can give them a call and remove the middle man. Good luck. Cougars Unlimited LLC 6831 Truchas DR NE Albuquerque, NM 87109 (505) 821-1002 9AM-4PM Mountain
The motor gearbox needs grease the switches are best cleaned with electrical contact cleaner ..because in addition to cleaning it also lubricates and leaves and anticorrosion film on them .
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 My pleasure about the suggestion .Back when I was young man of late teens , I owned 3 t-birds in succession , from 68 to 1972 ..my first was my father`s 1963 , then while riding around one day I found for sale for $ 550 bucks , probably the rarest of all 1964s I cannot recall the code but it was one of a few hundred made with power vent windows and that function did not reappear until 1966 Palomino leather and Wimbledon white. So I traded my 63 and $ 75 bucks for it . Its rarity was not known to me but a year later a fire broke out under the dash and though we managed to keep it localized to the wiring, unfortunately I had no place with a garage of my own to work on it nor the money ...a wire harness in 1970 was $750 dollars ...peanuts now but then a lot more than I was worth. I sold it to a wheeler dealer for $ 400 as it was ...and found myself a Fire Red Florida beauty ,just arrived into Massachusetts , power everything except the the vent windows, not a spec of rust anywhere for $ 150 buck because it had black leather interior and a failed AC system can you believe that ?A good used compressor and condensing core form a donor at a local salvage yard made her righteous again Well at the time I had entertained the idea of converting the rear light to a 1965 ... I liked the sequential directional lights from the 1965 model but did not care for the bird on the hood instead of the lettering , nor did I like the fake fender vent to add to the already fake hood scoop...one fake is enough😁. Anyway I never got going and ended up in Germany for 3 years of the Cold War in the US Army . I had my father sell the car and I bough a brand new 1973 `Cuda 340 4 speed rally package through the PX . Sold it to by my first house when I came back to the States . Now l in my 70s long retired and from a multi skilled career looking to recapture time I am looking to the possibility of finding an unmolested in good enough shape candidate to replace my White beauty , but will never find one ..that I know. I have never been able to find any information about those power vent windows , Ford might have been testing the market and the additional cost in 1964 for that option may not have made sense . Somebody is selling one of those power vent window on Ebay ...without the motor ...of course🤣🙃why not ? CRC ...QD Electronic cleaner plastic safe is what I use in all my electronics needs , apply to all contact ..while no voltage is present ...good luck and , thanks for the great videos.
you guys are the reason I want to keep my 65 forever
Thank you very much.
Came here after watching Steve Magnante vid...wanted to see the mechanism for the sequential t-bird lights. Pretty neat! The appeal of old cars is that many things such as this can be torn down, cleaned, lubed, repaired, and put back into service. So much more fun than remove/replace where the new replacement is inevitably less durable with thinner metal, etc. Only thing I would have done extra is to remove the motor and get some lube/grease in the little gear case.
Hey Mitch, you forgot that new stuff is also 10 times more expensive. Yes, that is the good thing about old cars, you can fix just about anything yourself at home. New cars are far more comfortable and reliable but when they break down, start mortgaging the home. thanks.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Agreed! The new (garbage) replacements/reproductions are more expensive too! I have a 72 MGB GT. When I restored it 10 years ago, I was amazed at how every switch (lights, fan, hazard, brakes, etc) was easily disassembled, cleaned, lubed, and reassembled. The copper pieces were so thick and robust. I've seen modern reproductions where the metal was very thin copper or even cheaper brass - pure junk!
Also here because Magnente. Great vid.
@@nateerb3114 Yes, I watches some of his videos too, very informative and he knows his shit. Very sad to see the condition of most of the cars he critiques. Most are now only junk. Sad.
GREAT close up camera work, Nick. Amazing. I tried fixing my sequential assembly a while back, but it only stayed fixed for a while after I cleaned the contacts. I guess some or one of the points were burned out, as you say. I cheated and bought the Cougars Unlimited system, which has worked trouble free since. I like watching the electro/mechanical cam system in operation. That's the way our world used to work, and that's a part of the appeal of old cars.
I agree, Thank you.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I remember yrs back when mine crapped out ,Pat Wilson thunderbird who isn't far from me ,replaced it with an electronic one. Worked much better . But i do like the way the old technology is like the above comments.
Thank you Jbird.
Thanks for the info. I will do an episode on my channel here on my 65 Thunderbird on this later on. Kinda cold right now. Two things, I have sequential lights on my on Charger and is run by reversing the wires from one to another in sequence. Easy but effective. Second, I would put money on those points are just solder balls. I will try it on mine if needed by just adding solder back onto the point. A dab should do it. Just like new.
Hey Dark Earth, the points appear to be like a rivet that is riveted to the lever. They are flat where they make contact. If you repaired one with solder, youd have to file it flat so it mates with the other side properly. I had a viewer make a comment that armor all is the cure all, and just a spray here and there will make it look like new, like his cracked and peeling dash pad. So just spray some armor all on it and it will be like new. Some peoples kids! Looking forward to seeing your video. Thanks.
Great video Nick! My 65’s brake lights recently stopped working; sequentials and running lights worked. I opened the bag and found my relay was fried and the plug to relay had burnt.
I watched Joe’s video and installed the ISO/Bosch relay and it worked like a charm!! Cheers.
Thanks Kyler
Hey Nick, thanks for adding this to go along with John's video. Now that the cat is out of the "bag" , the repair does not look difficult at all. If the motor and it's reduction gear assembly can be removed from the plastic piece, one could possibly disassemble and fix, or soak the front gear assembly to get rid of the noise.
George B. in Michigan
I remember the reduction gears in there, its complicated. I messed with it early on in my career and gave up trying to fix them. I had too many good used ones to pick from anyway.
Oohhhhh Nick, I just did this job on my 65 and you didn't tell us that a lot of swear words were required to get those tiny springs back on! I got it done. Thank you very much for the videos!!
Nick,
Excellent, my friend. Not as difficult as I thought. Actually, you just made it look easy. Thank you. It was very much appreciated
Regards,
John
Hey, no worries. Thanks for all the great videos. You've helped a lot of people.
Those were very primitive compared to today’s electronics. I know a guy who was a Ford Tech in those days. He said he learned how to fix one of these units and he got to the point where he could get them working in just few minutes. He made great money since the other guys in his shop hated to work on them.
Hey Craig, yes I did very well in the early days when the electronic units were not available so people had no choice but to have theirs fixed. I don't remember the last time I had to fix one, maybe on my own car/?? Like I said, I don't remember its been so long. Thanks.
Thank You Nick , haven’t jumped into the sequentials yet but everything you do is well over informative, I built a 67 stang from the ground up and didn’t need one video but this technical , meticulous luxury vehicle of the 60s is a whole nother chapter and your doing a helluva job walking us thru it brother , have Great day Nick 🤙
Thank you very much Tach, I appreciate that very much. Glad to help when I can.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 No problem bro
These things have more relays than the rocket that sent the astronauts to the moon!
Thank you for the reply? I have not dug into the car yet to see if there are any problems yet. Your vids will help a lot if I have a problem.
Your welcome Michael
I'm gonna be opening that bag of worms real soon(reluctantly). This vid as well as John's vid have been very reassuring in tackling this beast of a problem these birds have. Hopefully I can get the brakes as well as the sequentials goin so I can start enjoying the fruits of my labor. Once again, you've provided excellent detail...now I just gotta find the time to climb into that coffin trunk & gitter done ;)
Oh, its not that bad. I will admit that at my age, its getting harder and harder to crawl into the trunk. Its getting harder to do a lot of things as John himself admits. Good luck and thanks.
Thanks for making these videos for us. Merry Christmas 🎄⛄
Hey Fords, my pleasure. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Great job I always wounder how it operated. 👍
Thanks 👍
You make it look so easy! Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year and one Bah Humbug.
Yeah, bah humbug to this covid crap! Merry Christmas to you and yours too.
Thank you Nick!
Your welcome.
Thank you!
My brake lights are not working. The first thing I repaired was the brake light switch (replaced it about a year ago). Then, last fall, I opened up my directional relay and cleaned all the contacts. Did the same to the motorized sequencer (as you detail in this video). Brake and turn signals were working fine after I did this. Fast forward to this year and I replaced all my cracked tail light sockets and replaced the bulb with LED bulbs. After I did this, the brake lights and the turn signals were still working fine with all the original parts. Then after about a week, the brake lights quit working. With the exception of the center left turn signal, the turn signals still work, but not the brake lights. When I step on the brake, after about 1-2 seconds, I will hear a relay contact chattering rapidly. I am thinking I have a loose ground (which I have checked) or something is drawing down the voltage so that a relay will not fully engage. Have you ever run into this? Some are suggesting I check the relay for the front turn signal indicators.
Hey, I'm sure I've seen a similar problem. Id check the relay and grounds, make sure they are okay. If the fender light relay, located under the dash, is not plugged in, the turn signals will fail. I don't remember if it affects the brake lights. What I do know is that even if the fender light relay is bad, if it is plugged in, everything will still work except the fender lights. The 3 units in the trunk, brake light relay, sequential motor and sequential relay, must all be grounded together and then all must be grounded to the car. I hope that has helped you. Thanks.
Thanks for the tutorial on the sequencer. Mine was converted by a previous owner to an electronic unit. Works well, reliably so far but it is at least 9 years old at this point. I also have the original electromechanical assembly and have run it and used it when troubleshooting a failed stop light relay. They are fun to watch. However, my turn signal related problem is the fender mounted indicators. The relay under the dash works intermittently. Tapping it can sometimes get it to function. Any suggestions on where to get a replacement or substitute?
Birds nest has a great replacement, I used it on this car I am doing now. Thats the way to go. Good luck.
Thanks for the great close up video. I'm trying to trouble shoot why my turnsignals won't stay on. I'll look into this.
That might be a dump question, but wouldn't a drop of electrical solder on each point (previously cleaned) work here?
Hey Mac, it might work, never tried it since I had so many good used points to work with. Give it a try, you've got nothing to lose. thanks.
So obviously getting one's hands on a sequential unit to replace burnt contacts is going to get worse and worse as time goes on. What about replacing those old burnt contacts with points drilled off of a new distributor points set? Drill off the burnt contacts and solder on the distributor points instead of replacing the entire contact assembly? Or something similar, doesn't have to be distributor points. My original unit works fairly well, but I'm sure I'll have to do some maintenance on it in the near future. Thank you so much for documenting this stuff. This knowledge is disappearing.
I would hope there are enough used sequential motors left for parts but if not, there is always the new solid state units. People are creative so it would not surprise me if someone found a fix for the burnt contact. Thanks.
Can the contacts on the directional relay be cleaned in a similar way?
You mean the square relay next to the sequential motor with all the wires? No, they are different and not removable. They can be cleaned though. I've disassembled the relay and cleaned all the contacts before. Its not a for sure fix but worth a try if your trying to save some bucks.
My 65 sequential signals are working fine, but lately they've started to make noise. It's a circular noise not quite as loud as in this video. Any tips on addressing this?
Its probably the sequential motor. Remember that yours is in the trunk wrapped up in a bag behind the back seat so you will not hear it quite like in my video with the motor right next to the camera. The only thing that can make noise is the sequential motor other then the clicking sound of the relay under the dash. The sequential motor is just getting old and is not serviceable. Of the hundreds of 65-66 Thunderbirds that I have driven that have the original sequential bag, almost all make noise. I have not found a way to service or lube the motor itself.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thanks for your helpful reply. I guess as long as it is working fine, I shouldn't worry too much about the noise. It's not too loud anyway. It's just a small hum like sound with three quick, click sounds repeated.
Hi Nick, I just opened the sequential motor put of an unopened set pouch and I see a lot of black dust, like chalk and don't know what that is. Any ideas?.
I think it is carbon from the sequential motor. As the brushes wear down, the dust from them builds up in the bag. Thats my guess since it cant be generated by any other parts.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 thank you!. Roger that.
Awesome! Thank you so much! My two outside lights in the sequence are both out (with new bulbs), so I think this may be the reason. Time to do some surgery! Is there any way to fix the burnt tabs? Thanks again for doing this video Nick! -Robert
Hey Robert, once the points are burned, thats it. It removes material and I dont really know how you would replace that. I guess the degree that they are burnt is important, you might be able to file it flat or file off the burnt area. Some are burnt so bad the point is gone completely. Id check the bulb sockets too. That is a more common problem with these cars. John (joernone) had this issue as well and his videos show how he corrected it. Birds Nest sells new looms with new bulb sockets. Thank you.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Oh, that’s great. So I’m getting light from all the bulbs when the headlights are on if I remember right. So I’m taking it that the sockets are good. Hopefully I can file the point as you suggested. I’ll open it up and take and look. Thanks again and Merry Christmas Nick!
@@ford-fix I have parts if you need them. Merry Christmas to you and Yours too.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Ok, very good. I’ll let you know. Thank you!
Can them contacts be repaired if I Don't have an extra one?
Hey Michael, them contacts are small and fragile and where would you get the parts to repair them? Most of the Tbird suppliers sell used parts and I would think you could get some from them. I also have some too. So, what I'm saying is that it should not be too hard to find good used ones to replace your burnt ones. Good luck.
Try taking apart the motor to lube it up, that is a major problem , Any idea where to get the best buy on the electronic setup In Canada these are big bucks
I did try that a few times many moons ago and it failed miserably. Now I just buy the solid state replacement. I get them from the Birds Nest. I don't know of any place that offers them cheaper. The manufacturer is Cougars Unlimited so you can give them a call and remove the middle man. Good luck.
Cougars Unlimited LLC
6831 Truchas DR NE
Albuquerque, NM 87109
(505) 821-1002 9AM-4PM Mountain
Oil the motor
The motor gearbox needs grease the switches are best cleaned with electrical contact cleaner ..because in addition to cleaning it also lubricates and leaves and anticorrosion film on them .
Excellent suggestion, Thank you.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426
My pleasure about the suggestion .Back when I was young man of late teens , I owned 3 t-birds in succession , from 68 to 1972 ..my first was my father`s 1963 , then while riding around one day I found for sale for $ 550 bucks , probably the rarest of all 1964s I cannot recall the code but it was one of a few hundred made with power vent windows and that function did not reappear until 1966 Palomino leather and Wimbledon white. So I traded my 63 and $ 75 bucks for it . Its rarity was not known to me but a year later a fire broke out under the dash and though we managed to keep it localized to the wiring, unfortunately I had no place with a garage of my own to work on it nor the money ...a wire harness in 1970 was $750 dollars ...peanuts now but then a lot more than I was worth. I sold it to a wheeler dealer for $ 400 as it was ...and found myself a Fire Red Florida beauty ,just arrived into Massachusetts , power everything except the the vent windows, not a spec of rust anywhere for $ 150 buck because it had black leather interior and a failed AC system can you believe that ?A good used compressor and condensing core form a donor at a local salvage yard made her righteous again Well at the time I had entertained the idea of converting the rear light to a 1965 ... I liked the sequential directional lights from the 1965 model but did not care for the bird on the hood instead of the lettering , nor did I like the fake fender vent to add to the already fake hood scoop...one fake is enough😁. Anyway I never got going and ended up in Germany for 3 years of the Cold War in the US Army . I had my father sell the car and I bough a brand new 1973 `Cuda 340 4 speed rally package through the PX . Sold it to by my first house when I came back to the States .
Now l in my 70s long retired and from a multi skilled career looking to recapture time I am looking to the possibility of finding an unmolested in good enough shape candidate to replace my White beauty , but will never find one ..that I know. I have never been able to find any information about those power vent windows , Ford might have been testing the market and the additional cost in 1964 for that option may not have made sense .
Somebody is selling one of those power vent window on Ebay ...without the motor ...of course🤣🙃why not ?
CRC ...QD Electronic cleaner plastic safe is what I use in all my electronics needs , apply to all contact ..while no voltage is present ...good luck and , thanks for the great videos.