Top and Tilt Install - This is a Game Changer 💥💥💥
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ต.ค. 2021
- I installed a hydraulic top link and hydraulic tilt cylinder on my compact tractor. A top and tilt kit makes it much more convenient to adjust the angle of your 3 point attachments
Here is the tilt cylinder that I used
amzn.to/3bpVKF6
Here is the hydraulic top link that I used
amzn.to/3bpNdCc
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At Rock Hill Farm and Homes we upload new videos at least 3 times per week, about our 20 Acre hobby farm, our John Deere 2038R compact tractor and other equipment, and the businesses that we run.
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Here is the tilt cylinder that I used
amzn.to/3bpVKF6
Here is the hydraulic top link that I used
amzn.to/3bpNdCc
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Thanks for watching
Just an FYI - the end piece on the new hose is called a Banjo fitting and Banjo bolt. That is what is used on brake systems for cars and motorcycles. This "bras washers" are called Crush Washers. They are softer so they conform to the surface to make a perfect seal. Another great video!
I really appreciate your honesty in pointing out your own mistakes, we all make mistakes. I also like that you are very informative and talk just like most of us out here that are trying to learn.
Two ideas I have and think would be cool. Rather than utilizing both remotes for top and tilt, I think a 12v diverter valve with a toggle switch would be trick as hell. That way you could switch between top and tilt in the cab, and only plumb to a single remote. Also, most tractors now a days have a lever to adjust your 3 point lift arms in the back, as well as telescoping arms. So you only gotta get close, and you can hook up to attachments without any effort. I’d like to see a switch to adjust that top link up and down in the rear of the tractor also
I appreciate you showing the damage that could happen when swapping components
Thanks
Save that one with the stretched eye. You can get a weld on replacement from hazard fart for under 30 bucks. Take the rod and piston out of the old cylinder, clean it out and weld on the new eye. Grind everything to bright steel and pre heat with a torch to 250f or so - if you have a 45 bevel on the replacement eye you can get full penetration and it will be better than new. Good lesson and thanks!
Thank you for that, sir. Very informative. I appreciate you also sharing what went wrong. It’s definitely helpful. Blessings
Good video. I always say keeper pin; it's a blanket word for cotter, diaper, lynch, tractor pins, and welding rods! They're all keeper pins lol. Stay safe.
Lots of great info on checking clearance when mounting new cylinders (or any other attachment for that matter). Thanks for the lesson Brock!
Thanks for watching
Very handy add on. Real time saver for using your box blade. Thanks for sharing your mistake. Lots of us might ignore the sound & make the same mistake. Appreciate the links. Good job telling folks to measure their top link. Not doing this would lead to failure at step 0. A real hassle if you live in the middle of nowhere & have to buy online.
Hey great video good to see people looking outside the box to make chores and hobbies easier and more efficient .little bit of prep work goes a long way great instruction on what not to do ! thank-you!!
Thanks for watching
Great video! Showing your mistakes is what makes TH-cam videos valuable. By showing them, you save others from making the same mistakes. You can learn the hard way, or you can utilize the combined knowledge of all the posted videos to learn the cheap and easy way. You do a variety of projects that are similar to what I do, so I find your videos very informative and helpful. Keep making them, and I'll keep watching them. I'll also add comments every now and then if I have something that may help you. Thanks again for doing such a great job!
I definitely appreciate my return viewers like yourself. The act of commenting on its own tells TH-cam that it was a good video so I appreciate it.
I think the top and tilt kit will be awesome if it ever dries up enough for me to use it
Thank you for linking here! I'm at the "find financing" stage of a first tractor purchase and this is helpful with implement selection, specifically choosing between a fancy back blade or a box blade.
Kioti is offering zero percent as of a few weeks ago
Your honesty is so great. I really appreciate your information. I'm getting my first tractor, MF1825E and all this is great for helping me understand how to use different implements.
Thanks for watching
Good luck with that first tractor
Great video! People actually learn real lessons from you in all of your videos. As I was taught at a very young age….. it’s much more important to know what “Not to do” than “what to do.” And the smartest man in the world shares his/her failures. Which means that person has no ego and is totally grounded. These type folks are the absolute best teachers period!! You sir are that person!! Keep the lessons coming from the most enjoyable channel on TH-cam !!! 👍🔥
Thanks for the kind words
This cost me $200 so I need to show it
I hope you realize how much your videos help all of us out here. This was exactly the video I needed to find. Thanks, Brock. P.S. You're also very funny. "This is the idiot part." 😂
Thank you. This is the comment I needed to read today
Might be useful to attach some kind of level to the top or face of the quick-hitch so you can look back there to see when you have the attachment level left to right. Very helpful video.
Cool Add on Brock, that's going to come in handy, especially digging them swales.👍
Yes sir
Thanks for watching
Thanks for showing the boo boo on the top link. You are not stupid no shape or form on that. Very easy to do and I would have put in the middle hole too thinking it was a stronger point. Hope to have a tractor like yours soon. Upgrade from my 1015r.
I like my tractor but you can get a lot done with any of them. Definitely better than a shovel.
I feel like whatever Tractor you have you wish you had a bigger one.
Thanks for watching
Nice upgrades. I need to do the same. Thanks for the info Brock.
Thanks for watching
Just got my tilt working on the 1973 Unimog 406...awesome with the landscape rake as well!
Thanks for sharing. I can’t wait to put this to use
Good stuff Brock...we appreciate your candid comments , mistakes don't happen .... unless your doing something !
Keep up the good work
pc
Thanks
If you just jump in with both feet you’ll learn a lot in a hurry
Very cool. Looks like I’m going to have to upgrade. Thanks a lot....haha
I’m set up to add eventually. Great vid!
Thanks
Excellent video, thx for sharing.
Thanks for watching
That's awesome I only have 1 remote on my tractor currently but will look into putting a second one in. I like that you can angle to box scraper to get a nice crown on a drive. I can totally see myself using that feature.
It’s definitely handy. You can add another hydraulic port with Summit hydraulics but by the time you do that and add the tilt cylinder you’re spending quite a bit of money
I had to watch this again I’m getting a hyd top and side link and didn’t want to screw it up thanks Brock
Awesome
Good luck with it
Regarding pipe thread compound and Teflon tape, both are really only needed where you have tapered "pipe" threads were there's eventually an interference fit. Any connections with any kind of gasket, including the crush washers in a banjo fitting should not get taped/compounded. My old plumbing instructor from the stone age used to put pipe compound on flared copper tubing connections and on compression ferrules (the little tapered sleeves used on copper and more recently some plastic tubing) but many people disagree with that practice.
You probably already know this but one other important note regarding Teflon tape is to always apply it in a clockwise manner (for a standard right-hand thread and looking at it from the small end of the taper). This keeps the tape from being "spun" off the threads as it's screwed in. If you want to go nuts you can actually use both tape and compound, just apply the tape first.
thanks for sharing Brock, I recently added a hydraulic top link to my kioti I used 3/8 hydraulic lines but switched them out to 1/4 inch lines because they flex more and don't get in the way of moving parts on the lift
Thanks for sharing
Excellent video
💥 It’s always good to admit your mistakes. As a Kubota owner I haven’t made any yet. 😂
Have a great day Brock!
*Keep on tractoring!*
👀
You will love your tilt cylinder. I have found it helps hooking up to the quick hitch, if the implement is not on level ground you just use the tilt cylinder to correct the problem. All tractors should come with a top n tilt, hard to imagine not having one.
Yes sir
Excited to put it to use
Keep that old cylinder for maybe a DIY project or fab project for around your farm.
Those side fittings are called banjo fittings. Space savers and great for tight spots.👍🚜👍
Thanks for sharing. I’ll definitely be hanging onto that cylinder
even as badly damaged as it is I used it for a long time that way
Thanks for watching
Awesome work I want that for my 1025.
I know you can put the hydraulic top link on a 1025 but I’m not sure about the side link
Probably would have to do some measuring to see if it would fit
Thanks for watching
Thanks for all the videos! I plan to get some of these links next spring. Hopefully they are still instock...
Yeah, you never know about stocking these days. Surprisingly the price on these dropped this week
Thanks for watching
I like the plow you showed also. Might be a future investment at the next house we buy. Keep the videos coming... Good stuff!
Thanks a lot
Both Teflon tape and that paste you used are really designed for water. If you are using NPT thread hydraulic fittings then pick up a bottle of loctite 545 thread sealant.
TTWT recently did a video on picking out hydraulic top links. One interesting thing he pointed out was that if you get one that retracts shorter than the factory link it can help give you more clearance for loading and unloading a trailer with an implement.
While this is true, in my career working on gravel trains, we always used taegaseal brand thread tape and never had a problem on 3k psi systems. Pipe dope will not cure properly if used in hydraulic systems and put immediately to work. DO NOT use either for JIC/flare fittings. Someone did that on the dryer line in the house I bought, terrible idea and very dangerous.
Also remember, hydraulic injection is dangerous and happens fast. Keep free from leaks and jets of hydraulic oil. Will kill you quickly and painfully.
@@justinb1488hello. I am looking to add top and tilt to my tractor are you saying nothing should be added to the threads at all?
@fiftycalguru Depends on the type of fitting. JIC or most flare type fittings do not require any sealant and in fact would be a bad idea to use it. If it is a pipe thread or NPT then you MUST use a high quality Teflon tape (unless you plan to allow the pipe dope the proper time to cure before adding fluid to the system. Thread tape is already cured so works best on hydraulics in my opinion)
@@justinb1488 thanks for the reply
Great video many thanks for the review and the purchase referances. At the risk of appearing daft can you provide references to the adjustable lift arms and sway links your demonstrated Thanks!
Just incase you need to find replacements in the future. Those “brass” seals are actually copper crush washers.
Awesome Brock. I'm excited about this like I'm in the shop with you and this video is a couple weeks old lol. Your giving Honest Abe a run for his money on here. Those are good upgrades. I want a hydraulic top link for my kubota. On the tilt for the side mine has the hand crank style and makes adjustments easy. My little Mahindra is just the double screw type and I'm not a fan of that type lol.
Thanks for sharing
Used this quite a bit already and it makes things a lot easier
A lot of YT videos on repairs and mods are incomplete and invariably filmed with a potato in a dark shop. Thank you for NOT being one of those!
Thanks. Trying to be helpful
Do you have any interference problems when you put your backhoe on or do you have to put the original lift link back on?
Could you use a 6" stroke or would it bind?
I added an adjustable link on my 2025R. With both links being adjustable it gives me 6 more inches of total lift. Which is sorta needed with a 2025R. The 3 point does not lift anywhere near as high as my old 755 did. Anxious to see the pond aerator set up.
Yeah. I’ve heard that is a downside to the 2025. Glad there to link helped
Thanks for watching
@@RockhillfarmYT It is fine for what I do. The cost to go bigger outweighed the need in my case.
Nice video Brock! I'm curious, if you add a second tilt cylinder not only would you have more options, but... would it also act like a down force if you put both sides down??
“It makes a big difference which hole you’re in”
-my wife (probably)
Next question, because you probably have a video on this but I'm too lazy to hunt it down. I have a 2025R I bought with a backhoe, which I won't be using anymore. Do you know if I can use the installed power-beyond kit for a hydraulic top link? And what remote do I use for a HTL?
Good stuff, Brock! I didn't see a video from Farm On the Range showing his TnT. Oh well. Thanks for pointing out his channel.
I didn't know there was a tilt cylinder that would work on the 2032R/2038R.
Where did you get the extendable lift arms?
Yeah, haven't put one out yet, been crazy busy but i will have to now that Brock beat me to it lol
He didn’t make a video but we message off of TH-cam and he sent me a link to the cylinders
The extendable Lift arms idea came from a guy with a Tractor TH-cam channel. He found out that the 3025E and the 2038R have the same part number for their lift arms.
He actually had a 3025E and upgraded to the 2038R and the only thing he missed was the lift arms
The 3025E has the option for the extendable arms so that is what I have
@@RockhillfarmYT Got it. Thanks!
So, something that is not really clear or answered in the videos I have watched about installing a hydraulic top link- in my case I want to do it on a JD 3320. Where are the controls located to manipulate the link i.e., move the top link in and out? On my JD, it has the control stick for raising, lowering and tilting the loader bucket but I don't see controls for auxiliary hydraulics. They may be there, but I may not know what I am looking for. Will I need to change out the control stick to accommodate for auxiliary hydraulics?
I can’t speak specifically to your tractor. Normally if the tractor has auxiliary rear hydraulics, and it has a lever to control them.
Not normally on the loader joystick. Should be off to the side somewhere like your three point lever.
The three "upper" attachment holes are meant to accommodate the weight of whatever is attached. Per (my) manual, the lowest hole is for lighter duty / weight attachments, and the top hole is for heavier duty / weight attachments, with the middle hole those who cannot make up their mind 😊
What I remember from reading that section was that it’s about whether the implement engages the ground
Hey, I started just watching your videos I know it’s been a weird year two years now even working on the top and side links. I have a John Deere 3039 R can I use the same parts you are using and would it work for me I haven’t had time to look at into it the way you described. It sounds great I would like to use it on my Tractor.
I can’t guarantee the same parts would work, but I would say about a 90% chance.
I know that I have the same lower lift arms as a three series.
This set up is still working well for me Except that I have one hose that is leaking and needs replaced
Brock, great video...where did you purchase your extendable lift arms? I need to purchase those, like yesterday. Thanks!
That is a stock John Deere part but it’s not listed for this tractor.
Those are lift arms for a 3025E and I’m pretty sure I put the part number for those lift arms on the video where I installed them
th-cam.com/video/lo8HJXCqRpY/w-d-xo.html
Brock what hoses did you get to connect the tilt cylinder to the John deere scv connectors
Honestly, I still get confused by the different thread types and fitting sizes, so I really couldn’t tell you
Most hydrogen fittings don’t require pipe dope due to how they seal they don’t use the treads to seal generally
i see a bigger tractor in your future :)
I hope so
Thanks for watching
So now that amazon doesn't have that cylinder available.... Any suggestion on where to get a comparable one?
I do not. I know that those have went out of stock and back in stock a couple of times since I posted this video
I have seen some discussions on forums and Facebook groups about The side cylinders. I think they’re kind of hard to find right now…. Kind of like everything else.
If you happen to find one you might send me a link and I will share it for everybody else
Hmmmmmm..... I wonder if this tilt cylinder would work on the 1025r? I checked with a guy who says he is "the only one in the country making one for the 1025r" and has a six month lead time with full payment due up front. Not to mention about $250 more than this. I already have the hydraulic top link. I'd love an alternative!
I can’t say for certain. If you want to measure your side link I could tell you how long this one is at the shortest hole
What are you using for a control valve for the cylinder
The tractor came with 2 rear remotes, and a lever for each of your remote.
However, you are getting your rear hydraulics should come with a way to control them
I know I probably over-paid, but had Pape’ install my 4th/5th and top/tilt. That way if anything goes haywire it’s their fault 🤷🏼♂️ 3046r is being delivered next month 🥳
Awesome
Congrats on the tractor
@@RockhillfarmYT you’ve helped me more than you’ll ever know, with both the make/model and implement selection… Thank You!
Let’s put one on the 8N
Yes sir
Dang I got my tilt cylinder from gearmore, I paid 350 plus shipping… Ouch!
I paid $490 for this cylinder last week
I just looked and this morning the same cylinder is half that price!!!
Crazy
@@RockhillfarmYT I guess I don’t feel as bad anymore, as long as I’m not the only one overpaying.
where is the link to buy these cylinders
It is in the video description
Here is the tilt cylinder that I used
amzn.to/3bpVKF6
Here is the hydraulic top link that I used
amzn.to/3bpNdCc
How much down force does the 3 point hydraulic put down? 500lb ? 2000 lbs? This would be a great video idea
Thanks for the suggestion, but my three point doesn’t put any down pressure. It is just the weight of the implement
You can add a down pressure kit but otherwise it’s basically like a float mode
@@RockhillfarmYT thanks! I guess i am miss understanding the benefits of the top link hydraulic. I thought it was for down pressure.
No, it does not put down pressure. It changes the angle.
The even with the top and tilt kit on you can grab the three-point and lift it up and down by hand
I am in the process of doing the same thing to my 3038E. But I added hydraulic rippers to my box blade so I also need a third option for the rear. I already have the WR long third function kit on my grapple and as I have recently discovered you can’t add the John Deere rear remotes with the WR long kit. I can’t even add the power beyond kit to run the Summit hydraulic set up with the WR long kit. So I’m not sure what I’m gonna do. I wish I would have started out with the complete Summit hydraulic kit. With the third function and four rear remotes. But it showed unavailable and I didn’t think I could get it. Tractor Time With Tim recently sent me a link to show me that I could get it but I already spent the $900 on the WR long and it works great so I’m not sure what I will do….
Yeah, that’s kind of frustrating. I paid to set mine up to run the front hydraulics off the rear remotes and then did not like doing that so I had to spend the money a second time.
Forgot to mention I added an RV bubble to the top of the quick hitch so you can see from the seat if you are level or not.
Good idea
Maybe try reading the instructions!
What are you referring to?
There were not any instructions sent with the cylinders
That's what my wife keeps saying
@@RockhillfarmYT ooo
I do usually skip the instructions until after I try it and it doesn’t work