Hydraulic Top Link Install on a Compact Tractor - Things You Need to Consider
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ต.ค. 2024
- Hydraulic Top Link Install on a Compact Tractor - Things You Need to Consider
I had to replace the cylinder with a different version and added a tilt cylinder. Here is the update video
Top and Tilt Install - This is a Game Changer 💥💥💥 • Top and Tilt Install -...
Here is the tilt cylinder that I used
amzn.to/3bpVKF6
Here is the hydraulic top link that I used
amzn.to/3bpNdCc
In this video we install a new hydraulic top link on our John Deere 2038R compact tractor.
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At Rock Hill Farm and Homes we upload new videos at least 3 times per week, about our 20 Acre hobby farm, our John Deere 2038R compact tractor and other equipment, and the businesses that we run.
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Brock
Thanks, good video. Thank you for not having music play while you are talking, well done!
Thanks for watching
I feel like the background music is over done
Lnelbrdn FF dj FF j
I have a hydraulic top link on my tractor. They should be standard equipment on all tractors. No matter how many times you get off and adjust a regular top link it's never quite right. Great video.
Yeah, that’s one of the best things I’ve done to the tractor
Thread tape on hydraulic fittings...that's a no-no, but otherwise...good info and video!
I wondered about that. Thanks for the info
They make special thread sealant for NPT high-pressure hydraulic fittings that won’t put bits of material floating in your hydraulic fluid. IIRC, the product number from Loctite is 545; but there’s several competitors as well. Not cheap, but it sure beats having to rebuild a valve body or pump...
Edit to add: the fittings should be oil-free and dry before applying the sealant. Use a residue-free degreaser and blast it with compressed air before assembly.
Thanks
Also when using tape you have to wrap with the direction of the threads.
Thanks
On the top link I did for my 1023E, totally different set-up, I needed 90 degree angles on the cylinder, but was able to position it with the stationary end fixed. I had my own set of issues though. I originally had straight hose fittings coming out of the hydraulic couplers in the tractor, but then had to switch one out because the angle of the hose rubbed up against the 3 point when all the way up. And I had to fiddle a little with the direction of the hoses as they came out of the cylinder to make sure they were not hitting anything. It's funny, these projects are hard at all, but sometimes require some adjustments to get them just right. I'm telling you though, you will love that top link now. I still watch videos where people don't have them and just think, that poor guy, if only he had an easily adjustable top link, life would be easier.
Yeah, it’s definitely handy to have.
There’s usually something you don’t think of doing a project like this
I am thinking of this swap for my 1023e. Is the hydraulic link shorter than the original when fully retracted or threaded in? I am hoping to get more lift out of my 3pt. Also do you have any links or suggestions what and where to buy? Thank you.
When you’re purchasing your top link, they are available in different lengths. For instance mine has an 8 inch stroke so it can run between 20 inches and 28 inches.
I cannot tell you what an appropriate length and stroke is for your 1023.
I wonder if tractor time with Tim might have a video on that. I think the video that Tim made today he was showing a Hydraulic top link because he’s adding additional rearremotes to a 2025
@@RockhillfarmYT up here in canada we have Princess Auto that has a wide selection of DIY hydraulic stuff (similar to Harbour Freight in USA) as I’m sure most have heard of. The smallest hydraulic top link they offer is similar to yours with an 8” stroke and 20” fully retracted length. I have measured the stock top link on my 1023 at 20” fully retracted. So I am curious if someone is offering a cylinder with a shorter fully retracted length than what i have found locally. The lift height has been one of the bigger issues i have found with my 1023E. I think is would be a slick and cheaper way to get a bit more clearance with my attachments as i already have the rear hydraulic function on the tractor for the snowblower chute control. Let me know if you have any thoughts about this. Just subbed to your channel, keep up the great content!
Protip when using tape make sure you put it on it reverse of the way you tighten….. then it wont bunch up like that
Stated that way is a little confusing because it depends on what you are tightening. If wrapping a bolt and tightening the nut it is opposite of what you said. If wrapping a threaded bolt-end, wrap it clockwise when looking at the threaded end.
Thanks for sharing guys. I’ve learned a lot since uploading this video but I always appreciate the tips
@@NeedsMoreToys or how about just start the tape and rotate what you're applying it to in the direction that tightens it?
That is a nice option to add to your tractor. Great job, Brock. -Ed
Thanks
Thank you so much I am looking to buy a hydraulic top link. Crazy thing is I own this tractor for about a year. It's a two thousand six and I just realized what those two hydraulic fittings were on the back of it. Thank you so much I just ordered a box blade hopefully it'll be here this week. I'm excited to learn how to do this as I have already got a job to do for a friend of mine her driveway is about 700 ft long
That’s a long driveway. Have fun with your new toys.
I’ve got a pretty long driveway myself that I maintain
They have top links and hoses on Amazon. It's important to get a cylinder that has check values as this doesn't allow the link to extend or without input from the system.
Yeah. The top link that I linked to in the description has a check valve but my tilt cylinder did not so I had to add one
That’s slick!! Anytime you can automate a manual task you are golden. 👍
Thank you for watching
I’ve been wanting to make this upgrade since I got the tractor
Nice "accessory"... we have a 60hp New Holland ourselves. Gonna spend some time binge watching your videos over Christmas week👍-Josh
That is a lot of tractor.
Welcome to the channel and thanks for watching
@@RockhillfarmYT yeah man, we homestead on about 120 acres here in the Western Highlands of Virginia- lots to manage from wood lots to livestock, snow plowing and more. Out here a man's gotta have at least a 40-50 hp 4x4 tractor 👍
I will check out your channel.
I have 20 acres and a 38 hp tractor. I think it’s about right for my needs although I have thought about upgrading to something a little bigger
@@RockhillfarmYT yeah that sounds just fine!
Placed a hydraulic top link on my JD755 23 years ago. When I traded last year for a new 2038R I had the dealer set it up with a hydraulic top link. A few weeks ago I purchased a new 1025R with cab for snow removal and I am waiting for the dealer to set it up with a hydraulic link, I would not have a tractor with out.
Definitely makes things a lot easier.
Thanks for watching and for commenting
I had to replace the cylinder with a different version and I added a tilt cylinder. Here is the update video
Top and Tilt Install - This is a Game Changer 💥💥💥 th-cam.com/video/wE6QXHZRAIM/w-d-xo.html
Here is the tilt cylinder that I used
amzn.to/3bpVKF6
Here is the hydraulic top link that I used
amzn.to/3bpNdCc
Thanks for watching and check out our other John Deere 2038R compact tractor videos at th-cam.com/video/G9ccCrIRsgY/w-d-xo.html
And subscribe to our channel at th-cam.com/users/Rockhillfarmandhomes
Buy me a coffee - www.buymeacoffee.com/rockhillfarm
Thanks for watching
Force should be applied to the fixed jaw on adjustable wrench to not damage the screw adjustment mechanism.
Thanks for sharing
Now that most schools have replaced "hands-on" shop classes with more "screen-time" STEM classes (or STEAM, adding Art and making it all pointless) these sorts of useful tips are no longer being passed on. However, I'm not sure if the reason is actually to protect the tool as much as it's to prevent rounding off nuts. The nut contacts the wrench and force is applied at two points, one on each jaw. When force is applied in the direction of the adjustable jaw, the nut can only slide deeper into the wrench where it will bottom out. When the wrench is held "backwards" so that you're pushing/pulling towards the fixed jaw, the slop in the adjustable jaw creates a slight (and increasing with distance) ramp with which a nut can slide partly out of the tool, usually rounding off the nut. This guy does a nice job explaining further. th-cam.com/video/I9BAPAfVSyE/w-d-xo.html
Here are a couple of other things to "consider": 1) Unless you're in the landscaping business or the like and can justify the expense, and unless you already have a valve and connections free on your tractor, you are going to spend upwards of $600 for an install if you do it yourself. 2) Unless you have a hydraulic shop nearby (I actually got everything made up at my local Carquest Auto parts), you're in for a world of hurt trying to find hoses, connections, cylinder, valve, etc. TSC was no help and didn't have all the parts on hand and the local Massey Ferguson dealer could only provide specific parts and only by ordering them. Bottom line, yeah, if you're a landscaper or contractor then go for it. If all you're doing is grading a 50' driveway, the cost and headaches don't justify the install IMO.
There is more wrong with this than there is right. First, when doing a from start mod that requires hydraulic hoses and 90 degree fittings buy the 90s for the cylinder instead of having them made on the hose. Those hose 90s are over 4 times the price of straight ones. Unless you break or damage the ones on the cylinder they will last indefinitely, saving you money in the long haul. Next, and this is basic stuff, use a good thread sealant such as loctite 5452 for hydraulic applications on pipe threads instead of teflon tape. No sealant on jic or any of the o-ring type fittings. Just a drop or 2 to prelube o-rings to prevent damage. If you decide to use tape, wrap it in the proper direction - note that on the first hose the tape is stationary, not moving with the hose as it is turned and that will not seal. Now to watch the rest of this video.
I’ve notice you use that Mexican speed wrench a lot. It gets the job done though.
Nice presentation, but I think you have the cylinder attached 180’ in the wrong way.
The base of the cylinder should be attached to the tractor and the extending rod goes out to the implement.
I could be wrong but haven’t seen it attached this way.😊
Thanks for sharing
I think that’s how it’s normally done. I set it up that way first and then I switched it. I can really run either way.
Teflon tape on hydraulic compression fittings is never used. You can Google that one. Then you put the cylinder on backwards. Those are the only two things I watched before I hit stop and wrote this - so if you cover those two topics somewhere else in the video, my apologies. Looks like you're doing well with your channel with >130k subscribers, very nice. Could you tell me how you have so many subscribers, but your video doesn't have many views, comments or thumbs-up? Thank you ---
I have 130,000 subscribers because I have over 70 million channel views. That doesn’t happen by accident and it doesn’t require you to be an expert on hydraulics.
This video does have a follow up addressing your concerns
@@RockhillfarmYT wow, that’s great. It’s nice to see fellas like you make it. I hope you keep going
@FISHH00KS thank you. It is my full-time job for the last two years.
Excellent review! I'm being very tempted to get one of those, so I have a couple of questions:
1. What would I look for to see what hydraulic to link would fit my JD (3038E)? The bore and stroke? Anything else?
2. Why did you select the one you did?
The bore and the stroke are the only things I looked at. I waited quite a while to order mine because I was worried it wouldn’t fit, but it worked out fine.
The description said that it was made for a hydraulic top link on a compact tractor
I found the cylinder on Amazon and another one with the same specs on tractor supply website. I ordered from Amazon because of shipping speed and how easy they are to work with on returns
Thanks for watching
Hello, Just came across your channel and thought i would check out a video. The new top link should make it a little easier when needing to make adjustments. Great video on how you installed it too, great job. Have a great day and Merry Christmas.
The top link is definitely nice. Thank you for watching
Nice to see that splitter all assembled. Will there be a video of that? Great point about cylinder orientation and hoses. I'd have it all assembled and then have to RE-Do it!
Tomorrow’s video, which I recorded today is the first use of the splitter. I didn’t record the assembly and set up although that probably would’ve been a good idea.
your awsome!!
Thanks
NEVER use tape on hydraulic fittings. Hydraulic oil will cause the tape to disintegrate and if pieces of tape get into the system it would cause problems that could be costly!
Our local hydraulic shop uses tape all of the time.
He did say that you want to start a few threads in when you start your wraps.
BTW, the tape is used only on the NPT threads. NOT the JIC.
Great setup all around. 👍
Thanks
Check with NAPA Auto Parts for your future hydraulic hoses. My local Napa is much cheaper than the dealer with stronger hoses. Dealers want ya to bust overpriced hoses, if a Napa hose busts you're not going back and they know that. Hope this will help ya.
Thanks for the tip
Buy hydraulic equipment with SAE threads, no leaks!
What rear remotes do you have in the tractor???? Are they the factory JD rear remotes???
Yes
Okay, so I just re-watched this video because I bought a hydraulic cylinder (from TSC) and am getting ready to install it in the next couple of days. I still don't understand why you had to orient the cylinder the way you did. I get that the hoses were pointing down (isn't that what you were saying?) and got in the way, but why did you have to turn the stationery end towards the quick hitch? You couldn't just flip the cylinder around in the same orientation but with the hoses on top? Truly wondering here, in case I run across the same issue.
The way the houses were pointing is not the issue.
The design of the cylinder that I purchased made it necessary.
It’s kind of hard to put into words but I originally put it on with the fixed end towards the tractor. When I tried to lower the three point it wouldn’t go down because the Body of the hydraulic cylinder was not clearing the frame of the tractor.
By the frame of the tractor I mean that rounded area with the three holes where you attach the top link
@@RockhillfarmYT OH!!! I wonder if I'm going to have that issue with the link I bought on my 3038e! If I do, then it sure is good that I saw how you solved the problem.
Again, thanks for taking the time and effort to post these vids -- they're truly excellent!
Tape was put on backwards besides being the wrong thing to use. When you screw in the fitting it's unraveling the tape.
Yeah, I found that out right after.
Thanks for your feedback
What are the hose and coupler sizes? 3/8" or 1/2"
You wrapped the Teflon tape on that first hose the wrong direction.
Did you have to bleed the lines?
No. You don’t have to bleed tractor hydraulic lines.
The pressure relief valve takes care of that
Don't use thread tape on the hoses
I have some issue when I try to load an implement with the top link and think being able to extend it so it aligns 1st before the bottom pins will make it easier to attach the implements
Thanks
Exactly
This helps
Does it matter what end goes on the Tractor mount ??
Technically, no it doesn’t.
Most people put the fixed and against the tractor so that the hoses are not moving when the cylinder cycles.
In this video I had it the opposite way because the back of the cylinder was bottoming out on the back of the tractor limiting the movement.
Then I found out the easy fix for that is to put it in a lower hole on the tractor.
Just check for range of motion
With a hydraulic top link, does it matter which hose goes into which remote?
You can use either set of remotes and you can hook up the hoses either way.
It’s best to do it the same way every time so you know which direction on the lever moves the cylinder which direction
Thanks for watching
@@RockhillfarmYT assumed so. Have a Ford 3910 and got a box blade for road maintenance. Now just have to figure out what couplers the tractor has. They're covered with rubber boots. Assume I just yank hard to get the hoses out, vs releasing a QC
Hey Brock, Need a hydraulic top link for grade and am choosing remote hydraulics. I am also adding a hydraulic flail mower which requires 4 hose connections. Any advice on hydraulics would be appreciated. Spoke with Summit and Brand but it is confusing. Do not know if mower would need or could use a hydraulic top link.
Sorry for the slow response.
Unfortunately I can't really help as far as how to install those hydraulics because I have not done it. I only installed a front hydraulic diverter and hydraulic splitter for the dual grapple.
I think tractor time with Tim has done some rear hydraulic install videos on a 1025.
I got dual rear remote hydraulics from the dealer and those would work great for your flail mower or for a hydraulic top link.
Most people get two sets of remotes which would not allow you to use the top link with the mower.
Just like with my stump grinder I have to switch to a regular top link to use it because it has two sets of hydraulic hoses. It's not a big deal to switch, but if you want to use both you'd have to get three sets. Since those mowers articulate and two directions already I'm not sure if he would need the top link with it. I really want a flail mower myself
Let me know if you find a good solution. I'd love to know about it and maybe even to cover it on the channel
Brock, do you have a video on a hydraulic side link?
Yeah, here it is
Top and Tilt Install - This is a Game Changer 💥💥💥
th-cam.com/video/wE6QXHZRAIM/w-d-xo.html
Also an update on adding a check valve
Problems with My Hydraulic Top and Tilt Kit - Will This Fix It?
th-cam.com/video/4cBf8dmGKVA/w-d-xo.html
@@RockhillfarmYT Thank you for the added information.
I was a bit disappointed you did not show the control set up. I am considering a hydraulic top link but you failed to show the most important part. Hopefully someone else's video will show the control set up.
The controls are completely dependent on how yourTractor is set up. It’s not something that you would install or change when you do the top link
Mine came with two control levers right next to the loader control that operate the third and fourth functions
what lever controls the top link???
With John Deere, if you order the tractor with rear remotes it comes from the factory with levers in the operator station to run those rear hydraulics
Does anybody own a set of wrenches because I always see an adjustable wrench being used improperly.
I’ve worked in a couple of production facilities where you weren’t allowed to use crescent wrenches and I understand the reasoning but for something like this, I think it’s fine
Whats the proper way to use a adjustable wrench
I take the comment to mean that adjustable wrenches are more likely to round off a bolt, or in this case a fitting and should only be used when no other optional is available
In this situation my response is: meh, it will be alright
Thanks for watching
@@michaelevensen84 the right way for using an adjustable is to have the fixed end of the wrench doing all the work not the adjustable side. Using them the other way is usually how you break one, especially a inexpensive one
@@brucebennett8475 yea I know , I was being sarcastic, adjustable wrenches stay in my Dumptruck and used right won't break or round off a nut or bolt head as long as it's a quality wrench
You need to oil your vise
Thanks
Something is not correct on your tractor. Hydraulic link cylinders should always have the fixed end to the tractor.
Can you explain the reason why the fixed end needs to be to the tractor? I'm doing this install too, but it'll only work if I install it upside down or round the wrong way.
@markwigston6320 I ran it for a long time with the movable end being at the Tractor. It worked fine but it’s not the way it’s designed.
At the end of the day I found I just needed to use a different hole on the Tractor in my case
@@RockhillfarmYT Thanks for the reply. I'm installing the hydraulic toplink on a Bx2380. I don't have that option, there's only one hole. So for me the best option is the fixed end to implement. I'm wondering what's the consequence of that.