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I consider myself fortunate, because I enjoy cleaning my guns as much as I like shooting them. Few things are as relaxing as being out in the reloading shed, watching some good TH-cam, and cleaning a gun. Thanks for all the great videos, be well and God bless.
Ah, Golden Bullets and Thunderbolts. Have a .22 semi-auto pistol and rifle. A number of years ago, during the worst of the ammo shortage, it was all I had to shoot. Think I spent more on cleaning supplies then than I did on ammo.
I prefer cleaning videos that are not sponsored by a specific brand. Most of my 22LR rifles such as Rossi RS22, S&W AR15-22, Winchester Wildcat get non-chlorinated brake cleaner for cleaning the bore or Mobil 1 mixture. They and other firearm get cotton T-shirt rag patches with 50% 0W20 and 50% ATF fluid from Mobil 1. Some people use shoestring for pull while others may put a patch on weed trimmer line. I do have long fiberglass rods for 22LR, AR, and shotgun. I do have am Otis 22/223 pull cord that I may start using for cleaning my Tikka T1X. Some precision rifle makers do have a recommend break-in cleaning schedule.
Genuinely enjoyed this vid. 47 years old, been shooting and cleaning my 22's for 4 decades now 😶 And yet learned something new today. Awesome. 😎 Great vid dude!
FWIW: I use a bronze brush twice, one way only. Then I use giant Q Tips called RamRodz (caliber specific) with bore cleaner to or three times, followed by dry RamRodz until they come out mostly clean. Lastly I do one pass with Bore Stix which are prelubed with an oil that keeps the bore from rusting. The Bore Stix also serve to do a final cleaning as well as protecting the bore of the rifle. I have not noticed any accuracy issues with the first several shots at the range after cleaning compared to the rifle during use.
after 200 rounds or so i run my ripcord through when rifle is still warm, job done. after 5-600 rounds i clean the chamber only to remove the carbon ring. for this i use J-B bore paste and kroil, or bore-tech carbon remover... great vid, cheers.
Did not know that about lead coating the barrel. Thanks for the info!!!! Not a strong supporter of "Every time used, clean it", I clean when I start having feeding issues or accuracy issues. Good video!!!
Awesome! Thanks so much for your insight man! Been shooting .22 and beyond since my Dad started me at age 5. Never knew there were long term storage products out there, thank you so much for enlightening me!!
Great insight on barrel maintenance. I never thought about the lead filling in the machine marks from the boring bar and reamer cutting the barrel ID. Using the snake would clean the rifling and minimize removing the “seasoning.”
Great video ! I clean my hunting guns at the end of the season when I plan on storing them in the safe , before season starts I go to the range and shoot to make sure I'm still zeroed in and hunt the entire season without cleaning no mater how much I shoot . if I am out in rain ill wipe down the exterior but never clean the rifling in the barrel . like 22 plinkster said you want the barrel leaded .
Excellent vid bud. Very balanced and never to far one way or the other. New or experienced gunnies can take away alot from this vid. Thank you. Oh and BTW.... you need to collab with Hickok and then Matt and then maybe one of those other guys. Or... all those other guys. Lol
Nicely done sir. Cleaning weapons is a must. I was a professional gunsmith for 30 years. 75% of all "repairs" brought to me were due to a total lack of maintenance. Some weapons were literally filthy, and rendered inoperable because the owner never cleaned or lubricated the weapon. Those people, I consider to be idiots. Thank you for pointing out the need to clean your weapons. Good basic operation, and demonstrated well. 👍
My dad was a gunsmith, and saw the same thing. Most malfunctioning firearms brought in just needed a good cleaning and a bit of lube. The most impressive was a bolt action that wouldn't fire in the cold. The owner said he could watch the striker slowly fall. The striker and spring were gummed up with what looked like honey. Turned out his cleaning procedure for many years was to just hose everything down with WD-40.
Yup, in addition to my gunsmith shop, I was a peace officer for years, and an armourer for the PD. I was a Sgt, running a shift in a tough part of town. I'd do "surprise" weapons inspection. Found one officer's S&W Mod13 completely locked up! 100% inoperable. He was sent home, to report to the Division Commander in the morning. He was suspended for two weeks. And I was assigned to repair his weapon. It had never been cleaned nor lubricated in two years. It was rusted inside and out. Eventually, it was restored and reblued. And you know, that officer blamed me for him being suspended! I told him that he was lucky that he was not in a unit with me when I was in the army. I would have PT'd him everyday for a month! His lack of keeping his weapon in proper order endangered not only himself, but the lives of his fellow officers, and most importantly, our citizens!
@@anangryranger Treating a firearm like that should be a crime. I sold a Smith 29 to a friend to carry for bear protection once. He was on a canoe trip and went for an unexpected swim. When he got home he threw the wet pistol in leather holster in the cupboard till the following summer. At which point he asked me if there was anything I could do. Nope. You destroyed it.
@@philschaefer4651 Oh, I agree. It's inexcusable. It never ceases to amaze me how some people are so utterly stupid in how they treat weapons. Makes ya wanna get out a horsewhip!😬
I mostly shoot pistols and I like to use the patchworm system with the felt pellets and patches which you can mix and match to your own personal taste. I also like to wipe down with Eezox which will dry but retains its rust resistance and won't draw as many fingerprints. I think that the main reason to clean the barrel is to remove the ground glass that is used in most rimfire primer and remove any powder residue that can absorb moisture and cause corrosion. Sometimes a brush in the chamber if you are experiencing extraction issues is needed. To "season" a cleaned bore you need about one round per inch of barrel to spread the bullet lube the entire length of the barrel. The same if you are changing to a different ammo with a different lube. If your barrel starts to lead up it's going to be a lot more work and time to switch to a better brand of ammo.
I learned to shoot in the Army. 1968 to be precise. We cleaned M14's to death. I even cleaned my tanks to death! GO ARMOR! It stuck with me all of these years and I still clean everything to death! LOL Nice video as usual! Thanks!
I had a flash-back! I remembered when I was in basic training. We use strip the M-14 and ourselves and wash the M-14 and ourselves in the shower! Also remember the D.I.s screaming at us the next formation, how filthy our firearms were; must have completed (or tried to) a zillion push-ups. According to the D.I.s there was never a "clean rifle."
I’m a pretty good benchrest shooter (ABRA). We shoot at 1/8” dots at 50 yards for a score of 10. At this year’s National match, the winner hit the “10 dot” with 116 shots out of 120. The other four shots hit the 9 ring. He was shooting a custom 24” barrel gun. I watched him (like everyone else) completely clean his barrel every 30 or so shots. I’m thinking that benchrest shooting may be different in its cleaning requirements than what you do. We usually shoot 5 fouling shots and at least 5 sighters before shooting for record. It may be possible to go 60 shots prior to a complete bore cleaning before precision drops off, but that could happen in the middle of a record target card. I also saw the winning shooter in the factory 10/22 class clean after every target card - about 30 shots.
Thanks for this comment. I am in the same camp as far as cleaning my rifles, including my rimfires. I think the difference is that these match rifles have hand lapped barrels that are mirror smooth, so there should not be any pits or surface imperfections to "fill". As Erik Cortina says, "I can manage clean, I can't manage dirty." And he takes his bores down to bare metal every time he shoots. I do agree to only shoot lead out of rifles where you want the best accuracy, otherwise you are also working to clear copper out of the bore.
One important point missed is the carbon/lead ring that forms at the end of the chamber, in front of where the case crimps into the bullet. The ring is especially prevalent in semi-autos. Over time, the ring is very difficult to remove, so I clean the chamber every 200-300 rounds and run a Rip-Cord through the bore. Viewed through a borescope, the carbon ring looks very nasty and does effect accuracy & precision if allowed to build-up.
CAPS LOCK is a button on a computer keyboard that causes all letters of Latin and Cyrillic based scripts to be generated in capital letters. It is a toggle key: each press reverses the previous action.
I have a parts washer for gun cleaning. It is filled with mineral sprits. I wash and scrub out the receiver, bolt, etc. after disassembly and blow dry with compressed air. I have an air line to my basement from the large compressor in the garage. . I run a bore snake wetted with Hoppies down the bore. Than a mop with Hoppies and finally a mop with gun oil. Fast and easy.
Thanks for this. I picked up my first .22 target rifle this year and I've seen cleaning advice from "never" to "every time" for .22's. Thanks for clarifying. Regarding TH-cam policies, I'm confused, most firearm manufacturers have their takedown and reassembly videos on TH-cam these days?
What you call a Match rifle, we in Australia would call a Target rifle. What you call a Target rifle, we would call a hunting rifle. I use a Lithgow LA101 in .22lr to shoot in Hunter class at the local competitions. We shoot alongside the Target rifles that cost 5 or more times as our hunter class rifles. I have been known on several occasions to outscore the fancy rifles. I only run a "Bore snake" with no chemicals or oils through my rifle after a match and continue to have good results. I make sure that as I pull the bore snake through, I do not allow the cord or snake to touch the sides of the muzzle by pulling only in the line of the bore. It is possible to damage the crown by dragging a cord against the bore sides.
Cleaning is one thing, lubing is another. I have a couple precision Steel Challenge 10/22 rifles and hear all sorts of lubing methods from "completely dry" to "wet". Would love to some opinions here. I think wet is wrong, as it creates sludge, and dry is also not right because the contact points will wear if not lubed. I have settled on a "dry lube" which goes on wet and dries with a slick coating. Would love to hear from you all and what you are doing.
I have a volquartsen summit 22 lr and I took it to the range before cleaning it at all and then it started to not eject the spent casings and I brought it home after I was done and I ran a bore snake through it with a little bit of bore cleaner on the snake but I took it back out and shot it a few days later and it started to have the failure to eject problem again so I was wanted to see what you had to
5:47 hey does anyone have an opinion on when using rip cords or bore snakes, could it cause any deterioration of the rifle crown? I’ve been told if you pull sideways over time it can abrade the crown. If I ever use one, I try to pull the cord out in-line with the barrel but I’m not sure if I’m just being overly paranoid. (Guns aint cheap) great video bud!
Interresting. So, how does a rimfire differ from a centerfire when it comes to cleaning? I actually dont own a rimfire but i just clean my centerfires with a dry boresnake after every shooting. Blued guns get rubbed down with trusted gunoil when i feel like they need it and thats it. Theoretically i would chemically clean the barrel once i notice groups opening up but i never got a gun to that point. All i do is hunting and occasionally put a round on paper to test my rifle and skill to see if everything is fit for a hunt and thats it.
Always great content! I don’t have a match grade gun, but learned the cleaning difference you taught in the more economical platforms, like my Chiappa M4-22. It was the dirtiest new gun I’ve ever purchased. You have to do this type of cleaning before first use. Additionally, the light primer strikes on that gun taught me to throw away that round when it doesn’t fire. I discovered if that happens on the 22LR, it compromises the integrity of the primer/rim of the round and the primer casing would blow out when firing the second time with a good strike. That would pepper my face and wrist with some of the burning powder coming out the primer/rim when ejecting. 😅 I prefer to wear vinyl or latex gloves when doing the dirty barrel and bolt group cleaning. Dissolved lead on/in people has a sad history.
I get my blood tested every year. Believe it or not, I have very low or even no lead in my system. I handle about 100,000 rounds of lead a year. You would think it would be much higher. I'm not saying "do what I do", but I find it odd. It may catch up with me one day, though.
@@22plinksterThat is wonderful and amazing! I was guessing you were in the 10’s of thousands of rounds/year...wow! I love your channel and admire those God given skills. 👊😁
Great video! Now i have a question. Why not just use the ripcord for both rifles instead of the the high end one? Wouldn't both benifit by having the lead lining
I'm curious about what you said on leaving some lead in competition barrels. If the lead is serving a "good purpose" when left after cleaning and should not be removed completely, how did the gun shoot when you first got it. Did its accuracy improve from new after you put "X" number of rounds through it? I'm like you and clean my KIDD only after I see patterns opening up but, I always do my best to remove ALL the carbon and lead when cleaning and my groups return to normal. II have about 5000 rounds through my barrel and still get the same groups as when new. I just hope/expect the same after 10,000 rounds.
My match guns all shoot good when I get them. But after the barrel is broken in, they all shoot great. There's a sweet spot I get with them for about 50 -100 shots. After that, the barrel must be wiped out.
I never would have guessed high end rifles need special care! So good to know! I use CLP and an old M16 stock cleaning kit to clean my 10/22s. It's just how I learned to do it in the military and works great with AR's and .22s. I still remember when the spray CLP came out. It was a game changer just putting all the parts on some newspaper, giving them a good spray, and then brushing and wiping them back down.
I just use CLR. But only on stainless or titanium, and it will stain stainless. Bought me one of those M&M candy tubes with the flip-up lid, fits the baffles perfectly. Let it sit overnight, and you can almost just rinse them off in the sink.
Suppressor cleaning depends on suppressor material. Aluminum ,steel, titanium. CLR in a green bottle, Purple power clean, super clean are all common, check your metal first. I do Sonicator with hot water and soap works fine for me to start. ( pros would put cleaner in bag, add baffles) n fill Sonicator with water so no mess. then I do my typical nylon brush and bore cleaner. Then I put bearing grease over baffles or gun oil, both In a thin layer. I find this keeps my suppressor easy to clean, and easy to take apart. I have had people scream at me for using bearing grease... it's just a way to keep baffles from being stuck after shooting. It's dirty with or with gun oil. I've just experimented to see what makes cleaning next time better.
remove action from the stock then soak it in the solvent tank overnight, pull it out then blow it off with air compressor, if storing it next step dunk it in tank of hot cosmoline, cleaning the barrel I use 0-20 synthetic motor oil, contains lots of detergents and corrosion inhibitors, the smell makes it very easy to tell which gun has recently been cleaned. 🤣🤣🤣 FYI the synthetic oil might strip the finish off of of some guns. In USMC armory they chucked the cleaning rod into a drill then reamed that brush back and forth down the barrel a dozen or so times with drill at max speed, get a mirror smooth finish in that barrel... then people wondered why the rifles were keyholing at 200 meters.
How come the good ARA guys I know clean thoroughly for bench rest? Furthermore, Dan Killough (of KSS and the main dealer of Eley match ammo) follows a regimen consistent with what Eley ammo has found in their testing based on every rifle shot at their test range. Thoroughly cleaned guns shoot better than dirty guns. Cleaning with wet and dry patches and a brush every 100 rounds or so promotes the greatest accuracy. And it doesn't take more than 5 to 10 rounds to get the gun properly leaded. This is common in benchrest. But perhaps it's different when you're shooting steel targets or doing PRS.
I literally JUST picked up my H&K 416D on Saturday. gonna check for proper oiling, and take it out next weekend. Gonna keep it clean (like all my toys)
That may actual clean the barrel. I clean barrels most often with just Mobil 1 (50% 0w20 motor oil and 50% ATF). I also use this as a lubricant. I sometimes clean just the bore with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Good ammo comes with lead bullets that have a lubricant on them. The copper wash/platting is used on some bullets in place of a wet or waxy lubricant. Think of the copper as a dry lubricant. The copper wash is very thin and nothing like copper jacketing.
@@Beardman56 Oil does protect against rust, so it's usually a good idea to oil a barrel if you're not going to shoot the gun for a while. You need to remove the oil out of the barrel before shooting though. If you're shooting your gun every couple of weeks, it doesn't need a protective layer of oil.
Realised that I was not receiving yr videos.....n went on to yr channel n noted that I was not subscribed ....somehow I got unsubscribed ...by whom who knows. .n sadly it was similar with other gun channels eg 1V800....ASP etc....
Ballistol has been in use with my family over here in Luxembourg/Europe since the 1920s. All I have ever used on my rimfires. Spray it down, go over it with a nylon brush, wipe down. Barrels usually get a good coat of Ballistol, will leave it inside for hours, days weeks whatever, run a couple patches through, done. Occasionaly a brush. Apply fresh oil to the barrel for storage, wipe the outside with an oily rag or shaving brush and you are ok. One of my guns is a kk german trainer, never seen anyrhing except ballistol in 80 years and not a trace of rust.
I use weed whip line. You cut a piece longer than the barrel, usually about 8-10". Melt a bulb on one end, you can do it on a stove with a skillet. I use an empty .22 case clamped in a vise and a propane torch to heat up the case and push the line into it to make the bulb. Make sure you wait for it to cool to form the bulb, then heat it back up while pulling on the line to get it to release. Make sure you sand the bulb down enough for it to fit thru the bore with a patch attached. Cut a point on the other end so you can push a patch onto it. Push a patch on and feed it thru the bore. Use your favorite cleaner on the patch and finish pulling it thru. Repeat as needed.
I consider myself fortunate, because I enjoy cleaning my guns as much as I like shooting them. Few things are as relaxing as being out in the reloading shed, watching some good TH-cam, and cleaning a gun. Thanks for all the great videos, be well and God bless.
Dude, you literally posted this on the day that I am planning to teach my girlfriend how to clean. Now it's this much easier! Thanks a ton, son!
If she can't clean then you live in a dirty house.
@MsUltrafox that is the Dad joke of the day. You have won the internet
I use the cheapest rimfire rounds available. Usually the "thunderbolts"... those guys make my muzzleloader look clean! Nice cleaning video.
Ah, Golden Bullets and Thunderbolts. Have a .22 semi-auto pistol and rifle. A number of years ago, during the worst of the ammo shortage, it was all I had to shoot. Think I spent more on cleaning supplies then than I did on ammo.
Otis should have just put this commercial on their own channel
Great commercial for Otis
I prefer cleaning videos that are not sponsored by a specific brand. Most of my 22LR rifles such as Rossi RS22, S&W AR15-22, Winchester Wildcat get non-chlorinated brake cleaner for cleaning the bore or Mobil 1 mixture. They and other firearm get cotton T-shirt rag patches with 50% 0W20 and 50% ATF fluid from Mobil 1. Some people use shoestring for pull while others may put a patch on weed trimmer line. I do have long fiberglass rods for 22LR, AR, and shotgun. I do have am Otis 22/223 pull cord that I may start using for cleaning my Tikka T1X. Some precision rifle makers do have a recommend break-in cleaning schedule.
Why not its a free market. If a guy can make a buck more power to him.
Genuinely enjoyed this vid. 47 years old, been shooting and cleaning my 22's for 4 decades now 😶
And yet learned something new today.
Awesome. 😎
Great vid dude!
FWIW: I use a bronze brush twice, one way only. Then I use giant Q Tips called RamRodz (caliber specific) with bore cleaner to or three times, followed by dry RamRodz until they come out mostly clean. Lastly I do one pass with Bore Stix which are prelubed with an oil that keeps the bore from rusting. The Bore Stix also serve to do a final cleaning as well as protecting the bore of the rifle.
I have not noticed any accuracy issues with the first several shots at the range after cleaning compared to the rifle during use.
I think Foaming bore cleaner is EXACTLY what I've been looking for. Thanks!
after 200 rounds or so i run my ripcord through when rifle is still warm, job done. after 5-600 rounds i clean the chamber only to remove the carbon ring. for this i use J-B bore paste and kroil, or bore-tech carbon remover... great vid, cheers.
Did not know that about lead coating the barrel. Thanks for the info!!!!
Not a strong supporter of "Every time used, clean it", I clean when I start having feeding issues or accuracy issues.
Good video!!!
No matter if a gun is cheap or expensive you always take care of it.
Thanks for the bolt tip. That sends me back to the cleaning.
Thanks very much for the demo. Greatly appreciated!!👍👍
Awesome! Thanks so much for your insight man!
Been shooting .22 and beyond since my Dad started me at age 5. Never knew there were long term storage products out there, thank you so much for enlightening me!!
Great insight on barrel maintenance. I never thought about the lead filling in the machine marks from the boring bar and reamer cutting the barrel ID. Using the snake would clean the rifling and minimize removing the “seasoning.”
Great video ! I clean my hunting guns at the end of the season when I plan on storing them in the safe , before season starts I go to the range and shoot to make sure I'm still zeroed in and hunt the entire season without cleaning no mater how much I shoot . if I am out in rain ill wipe down the exterior but never clean the rifling in the barrel . like 22 plinkster said you want the barrel leaded .
Great video from someone who shoot alot. I've heard that most casual shooters clean too much. Good tips and product usage
Thank you anything you can tell us is appreciated god bless stay safe
Thanks for doing this great video I enjoy your content
Excellent vid bud. Very balanced and never to far one way or the other. New or experienced gunnies can take away alot from this vid. Thank you. Oh and BTW.... you need to collab with Hickok and then Matt and then maybe one of those other guys. Or... all those other guys. Lol
Nicely done sir. Cleaning weapons is a must. I was a professional gunsmith for 30 years. 75% of all "repairs" brought to me were due to a total lack of maintenance. Some weapons were literally filthy, and rendered inoperable because the owner never cleaned or lubricated the weapon. Those people, I consider to be idiots.
Thank you for pointing out the need to clean your weapons. Good basic operation, and demonstrated well. 👍
My dad was a gunsmith, and saw the same thing. Most malfunctioning firearms brought in just needed a good cleaning and a bit of lube. The most impressive was a bolt action that wouldn't fire in the cold. The owner said he could watch the striker slowly fall. The striker and spring were gummed up with what looked like honey. Turned out his cleaning procedure for many years was to just hose everything down with WD-40.
Yup, in addition to my gunsmith shop, I was a peace officer for years, and an armourer for the PD. I was a Sgt, running a shift in a tough part of town. I'd do "surprise" weapons inspection. Found one officer's S&W Mod13 completely locked up! 100% inoperable. He was sent home, to report to the Division Commander in the morning. He was suspended for two weeks. And I was assigned to repair his weapon. It had never been cleaned nor lubricated in two years. It was rusted inside and out. Eventually, it was restored and reblued. And you know, that officer blamed me for him being suspended! I told him that he was lucky that he was not in a unit with me when I was in the army. I would have PT'd him everyday for a month! His lack of keeping his weapon in proper order endangered not only himself, but the lives of his fellow officers, and most importantly, our citizens!
@@anangryranger Treating a firearm like that should be a crime. I sold a Smith 29 to a friend to carry for bear protection once. He was on a canoe trip and went for an unexpected swim. When he got home he threw the wet pistol in leather holster in the cupboard till the following summer. At which point he asked me if there was anything I could do. Nope. You destroyed it.
@@philschaefer4651 Oh, I agree. It's inexcusable. It never ceases to amaze me how some people are so utterly stupid in how they treat weapons. Makes ya wanna get out a horsewhip!😬
I mostly shoot pistols and I like to use the patchworm system with the felt pellets and patches which you can mix and match to your own personal taste. I also like to wipe down with Eezox which will dry but retains its rust resistance and won't draw as many fingerprints. I think that the main reason to clean the barrel is to remove the ground glass that is used in most rimfire primer and remove any powder residue that can absorb moisture and cause corrosion. Sometimes a brush in the chamber if you are experiencing extraction issues is needed. To "season" a cleaned bore you need about one round per inch of barrel to spread the bullet lube the entire length of the barrel. The same if you are changing to a different ammo with a different lube. If your barrel starts to lead up it's going to be a lot more work and time to switch to a better brand of ammo.
Thanks, took a lot of the mystery out of cleaning 22's
I learned to shoot in the Army. 1968 to be precise. We cleaned M14's to death. I even cleaned my tanks to death! GO ARMOR! It stuck with me all of these years and I still clean everything to death! LOL Nice video as usual! Thanks!
I had a flash-back! I remembered when I was in basic training. We use strip the M-14 and ourselves and wash the M-14 and ourselves in the shower! Also remember the D.I.s screaming at us the next formation, how filthy our firearms were; must have completed (or tried to) a zillion push-ups. According to the D.I.s there was never a "clean rifle."
I’m a pretty good benchrest shooter (ABRA). We shoot at 1/8” dots at 50 yards for a score of 10. At this year’s National match, the winner hit the “10 dot” with 116 shots out of 120. The other four shots hit the 9 ring. He was shooting a custom 24” barrel gun.
I watched him (like everyone else) completely clean his barrel every 30 or so shots. I’m thinking that benchrest shooting may be different in its cleaning requirements than what you do.
We usually shoot 5 fouling shots and at least 5 sighters before shooting for record. It may be possible to go 60 shots prior to a complete bore cleaning before precision drops off, but that could happen in the middle of a record target card.
I also saw the winning shooter in the factory 10/22 class clean after every target card - about 30 shots.
Thanks for this comment. I am in the same camp as far as cleaning my rifles, including my rimfires. I think the difference is that these match rifles have hand lapped barrels that are mirror smooth, so there should not be any pits or surface imperfections to "fill". As Erik Cortina says, "I can manage clean, I can't manage dirty." And he takes his bores down to bare metal every time he shoots.
I do agree to only shoot lead out of rifles where you want the best accuracy, otherwise you are also working to clear copper out of the bore.
Great advice and video!
I love that Otis foaming bore cleaner.
The music is a nice touch
Thanks for the advice.
Hey Plinkster--Suggest you wear latex gloves when cleaning, to avoid lead (and other chemicals) absorption through the skin.
One important point missed is the carbon/lead ring that forms at the end of the chamber, in front of where the case crimps into the bullet. The ring is especially prevalent in semi-autos. Over time, the ring is very difficult to remove, so I clean the chamber every 200-300 rounds and run a Rip-Cord through the bore.
Viewed through a borescope, the carbon ring looks very nasty and does effect accuracy & precision if allowed to build-up.
CAPS LOCK is a button on a computer keyboard that causes all letters of Latin and Cyrillic based scripts to be generated in capital letters. It is a toggle key: each press reverses the previous action.
Where pizza? No RoaR?
@@PatRMG PizzA!! 🍕
@@DinoNucci I will RoaR while I eat said Pizza because I am yet to decode the associated algorithm.
@@PatRMG #HerO
been waiting for this vid !!!! great tips, thanks.
Glad to help!
Right on man there's no rocket science to cleaning your gun just clean it no doubt I love your videos thanks
I have a parts washer for gun cleaning. It is filled with mineral sprits. I wash and scrub out the receiver, bolt, etc. after disassembly and blow dry with compressed air. I have an air line to my basement from the large compressor in the garage. . I run a bore snake wetted with Hoppies down the bore. Than a mop with Hoppies and finally a mop with gun oil. Fast and easy.
Thanks for this. I picked up my first .22 target rifle this year and I've seen cleaning advice from "never" to "every time" for .22's. Thanks for clarifying. Regarding TH-cam policies, I'm confused, most firearm manufacturers have their takedown and reassembly videos on TH-cam these days?
What you call a Match rifle, we in Australia would call a Target rifle. What you call a Target rifle, we would call a hunting rifle. I use a Lithgow LA101 in .22lr to shoot in Hunter class at the local competitions. We shoot alongside the Target rifles that cost 5 or more times as our hunter class rifles. I have been known on several occasions to outscore the fancy rifles. I only run a "Bore snake" with no chemicals or oils through my rifle after a match and continue to have good results. I make sure that as I pull the bore snake through, I do not allow the cord or snake to touch the sides of the muzzle by pulling only in the line of the bore. It is possible to damage the crown by dragging a cord against the bore sides.
Your a brave man!
I may be the odd one, but I enjoy cleaning my guns. Find it relaxing
Cleaning is one thing, lubing is another. I have a couple precision Steel Challenge 10/22 rifles and hear all sorts of lubing methods from "completely dry" to "wet". Would love to some opinions here. I think wet is wrong, as it creates sludge, and dry is also not right because the contact points will wear if not lubed. I have settled on a "dry lube" which goes on wet and dries with a slick coating.
Would love to hear from you all and what you are doing.
Great video!! On the bolt gun, how do you deal with the carbon ring? Does the rip cord clean that sufficiently? Thanks and keep them coming.
I have a volquartsen summit 22 lr and I took it to the range before cleaning it at all and then it started to not eject the spent casings and I brought it home after I was done and I ran a bore snake through it with a little bit of bore cleaner on the snake but I took it back out and shot it a few days later and it started to have the failure to eject problem again so I was wanted to see what you had to
I only clean chamber when I get ftf fte and barrel only when I can't group
Remember: Always clean the edges before rimming
5:47 hey does anyone have an opinion on when using rip cords or bore snakes, could it cause any deterioration of the rifle crown? I’ve been told if you pull sideways over time it can abrade the crown. If I ever use one, I try to pull the cord out in-line with the barrel but I’m not sure if I’m just being overly paranoid. (Guns aint cheap)
great video bud!
Interresting. So, how does a rimfire differ from a centerfire when it comes to cleaning? I actually dont own a rimfire but i just clean my centerfires with a dry boresnake after every shooting. Blued guns get rubbed down with trusted gunoil when i feel like they need it and thats it. Theoretically i would chemically clean the barrel once i notice groups opening up but i never got a gun to that point. All i do is hunting and occasionally put a round on paper to test my rifle and skill to see if everything is fit for a hunt and thats it.
If your .22LR(Ruger pre. rim fire) is too tight, could I use a .204 brush instead?
Do you clean your small game hunting rifles like you do a target rifle?
👍👍👍👍👍 great video
Any thoughts on compressed
Air to blow material away?
Always great content! I don’t have a match grade gun, but learned the cleaning difference you taught in the more economical platforms, like my Chiappa M4-22. It was the dirtiest new gun I’ve ever purchased. You have to do this type of cleaning before first use. Additionally, the light primer strikes on that gun taught me to throw away that round when it doesn’t fire. I discovered if that happens on the 22LR, it compromises the integrity of the primer/rim of the round and the primer casing would blow out when firing the second time with a good strike. That would pepper my face and wrist with some of the burning powder coming out the primer/rim when ejecting. 😅 I prefer to wear vinyl or latex gloves when doing the dirty barrel and bolt group cleaning. Dissolved lead on/in people has a sad history.
I get my blood tested every year. Believe it or not, I have very low or even no lead in my system. I handle about 100,000 rounds of lead a year. You would think it would be much higher. I'm not saying "do what I do", but I find it odd. It may catch up with me one day, though.
@@22plinksterThat is wonderful and amazing! I was guessing you were in the 10’s of thousands of rounds/year...wow! I love your channel and admire those God given skills.
👊😁
i typically use ballistol
Great video! Now i have a question. Why not just use the ripcord for both rifles instead of the the high end one? Wouldn't both benifit by having the lead lining
The "target" guns usually have a lot more rounds run through them. They tend to build up more gunk than the match guns.
I'm curious about what you said on leaving some lead in competition barrels. If the lead is serving a "good purpose" when left after cleaning and should not be removed completely, how did the gun shoot when you first got it. Did its accuracy improve from new after you put "X" number of rounds through it? I'm like you and clean my KIDD only after I see patterns opening up but, I always do my best to remove ALL the carbon and lead when cleaning and my groups return to normal. II have about 5000 rounds through my barrel and still get the same groups as when new. I just hope/expect the same after 10,000 rounds.
My match guns all shoot good when I get them. But after the barrel is broken in, they all shoot great. There's a sweet spot I get with them for about 50 -100 shots. After that, the barrel must be wiped out.
Ah Otis, love their stuff but not everyone has all these items or can get them. This went from relatable to an advertisement.
I never would have guessed high end rifles need special care! So good to know! I use CLP and an old M16 stock cleaning kit to clean my 10/22s. It's just how I learned to do it in the military and works great with AR's and .22s. I still remember when the spray CLP came out. It was a game changer just putting all the parts on some newspaper, giving them a good spray, and then brushing and wiping them back down.
Nice. I would like to see pistol cleaning too
If I use my Ruger precision rimfire in matches should I just use the ripcord?
If I shoot it I clean it no matter how many rounds I put down the pipe. It just makes good sense.
You shoot ,you clean..that simple
Clean mine with Shell rotella t-6 diesel oil and brass brush and some old white T-shirts for pads lol!
Remember guys the simple clean is for high end guns running high end ammo like eley , lapua or sk. Not your standard Remington golden
What length Ripcord do you use I have a CZ rifle and a High Standard target pistol I want to use it on?
Now do one on cleaning a 22 can . I like to see what you use .
I just use CLR. But only on stainless or titanium, and it will stain stainless. Bought me one of those M&M candy tubes with the flip-up lid, fits the baffles perfectly. Let it sit overnight, and you can almost just rinse them off in the sink.
Do you do anything different to store your rifle over a period of time!?
How to clean and reduce lead and carbon buildup in 22lr (rimfire) suppressors.
Suppressor cleaning depends on suppressor material. Aluminum ,steel, titanium. CLR in a green bottle, Purple power clean, super clean are all common, check your metal first. I do Sonicator with hot water and soap works fine for me to start. ( pros would put cleaner in bag, add baffles) n fill Sonicator with water so no mess. then I do my typical nylon brush and bore cleaner. Then I put bearing grease over baffles or gun oil, both In a thin layer. I find this keeps my suppressor easy to clean, and easy to take apart. I have had people scream at me for using bearing grease... it's just a way to keep baffles from being stuck after shooting. It's dirty with or with gun oil. I've just experimented to see what makes cleaning next time better.
soo you wouldnt use a brush on an ar15 with a match barrel?
I’m pretty sure there’s not really an incorrect way to clean your rim fires, center fires, etc.
remove action from the stock then soak it in the solvent tank overnight, pull it out then blow it off with air compressor, if storing it next step dunk it in tank of hot cosmoline, cleaning the barrel I use 0-20 synthetic motor oil, contains lots of detergents and corrosion inhibitors, the smell makes it very easy to tell which gun has recently been cleaned. 🤣🤣🤣 FYI the synthetic oil might strip the finish off of of some guns.
In USMC armory they chucked the cleaning rod into a drill then reamed that brush back and forth down the barrel a dozen or so times with drill at max speed, get a mirror smooth finish in that barrel... then people wondered why the rifles were keyholing at 200 meters.
Me running out to buy OTIS
What about a carbon ring?
I’m curious. What is it?
How come the good ARA guys I know clean thoroughly for bench rest? Furthermore, Dan Killough (of KSS and the main dealer of Eley match ammo) follows a regimen consistent with what Eley ammo has found in their testing based on every rifle shot at their test range. Thoroughly cleaned guns shoot better than dirty guns. Cleaning with wet and dry patches and a brush every 100 rounds or so promotes the greatest accuracy. And it doesn't take more than 5 to 10 rounds to get the gun properly leaded. This is common in benchrest. But perhaps it's different when you're shooting steel targets or doing PRS.
I literally JUST picked up my H&K 416D on Saturday. gonna check for proper oiling, and take it out next weekend. Gonna keep it clean (like all my toys)
Now I don't feel so bad about not cleaning my CZs or Henries every time I shoot a few rounds. No lube, got it!
Wait.... You can CLEAN rimfire rifles? :P
Drylube for rimfires
What about lubricating the barrels between uses?
That may actual clean the barrel. I clean barrels most often with just Mobil 1 (50% 0w20 motor oil and 50% ATF). I also use this as a lubricant. I sometimes clean just the bore with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Good ammo comes with lead bullets that have a lubricant on them. The copper wash/platting is used on some bullets in place of a wet or waxy lubricant. Think of the copper as a dry lubricant. The copper wash is very thin and nothing like copper jacketing.
Your barrel isnt a moving part. It doesn't need lubrication
@@Beardman56 Oil does protect against rust, so it's usually a good idea to oil a barrel if you're not going to shoot the gun for a while. You need to remove the oil out of the barrel before shooting though. If you're shooting your gun every couple of weeks, it doesn't need a protective layer of oil.
🤘 😁 🤘
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I knew an old Vietnam veteran who was a sharp shooter who would clean with a small amount of motor oil, and then fire 5 shots in the dirt on any gun.
Tempering the barrel for your desired ammo is a good way to go. Then you can let it go for it bit.
keren 🇮🇩
Awesome video! Any chances you can get your hands on a GSG-16 and do a cleaning? It's fun to shoot, but it sucks to clean!
😊😊👍🏼👍🏼
Kuh-lean?
Reall, you shouldn’t shoot copper washed in your match rifles? Never heard that before but, I’m not a match shooter.
Greta video, but for some reason your forward facing camera makes you look like your in front of a green screen.
plinkster not even a bore snake?
Ohhhh… rimFIRE! 😅
Comment
Realised that I was not receiving yr videos.....n went on to yr channel n noted that I was not subscribed ....somehow I got unsubscribed ...by whom who knows. .n sadly it was similar with other gun channels eg 1V800....ASP etc....
Great video buddy, great info for people. Lot's of love from American Hillbilly and Hillbilly Nation, Hillbilly Up.
Right on!
hey dude I got a question for you my name is Thomas Taylor and have you and I chatted on messenger yesterday and today
Cleaning rimfires…lol.
ราคาประเทศไทยแพงมาก
Ballistol has been in use with my family over here in Luxembourg/Europe since the 1920s. All I have ever used on my rimfires. Spray it down, go over it with a nylon brush, wipe down. Barrels usually get a good coat of Ballistol, will leave it inside for hours, days weeks whatever, run a couple patches through, done. Occasionaly a brush. Apply fresh oil to the barrel for storage, wipe the outside with an oily rag or shaving brush and you are ok. One of my guns is a kk german trainer, never seen anyrhing except ballistol in 80 years and not a trace of rust.
Ballistol, good stuff
So many Otis kits on Amazon. Could you do a follow up video on what Otis cleaning kits items you use for cleaning and caring for the 22 ?
I think the products would be much more entertaining if presented by Otis Campbell.
I need to find that cord thing... I hope I can find it in my country...
I use weed whip line. You cut a piece longer than the barrel, usually about 8-10". Melt a bulb on one end, you can do it on a stove with a skillet. I use an empty .22 case clamped in a vise and a propane torch to heat up the case and push the line into it to make the bulb. Make sure you wait for it to cool to form the bulb, then heat it back up while pulling on the line to get it to release. Make sure you sand the bulb down enough for it to fit thru the bore with a patch attached. Cut a point on the other end so you can push a patch onto it. Push a patch on and feed it thru the bore. Use your favorite cleaner on the patch and finish pulling it thru. Repeat as needed.
Would like to see a video on how you clean your rimfire suppressors