I think there’s always a bit of confusion around this point so i’ll throw my 2p in… This stuff was never Works Kit suspension by Pro Circuit. It may have come with those Works Kit fork decals but it was a few small parts that they sold that you added to your OEM suspension for a few hundred dollars. Riders felt the 99 was too long so Bones had those fork caps designed so you could push the forks further through the clamps without hitting the handlebars. Pro Circuit’s actual ‘Works Kit’ suspension (the stuff the guys on the team used) was actually sold to the public and cost around $3500 for forks and shock in 1999. It was still partly based on a stock fork but used one-piece upper tubes that were Kashima coated, DLC coated lower tubes with the OEM cast lugs hard anodised. They used the flush fork caps and had quite a few internal changes (lots of the plastic parts are replaced with coated aluminium ones etc. The shock was a 2 piece construction with Kashima coated aluminium mated to a sand cast upper piece with different compression/rebound adjusters. So yeah, whilst the parts in your forks may have come as a Kit from PC with those fork decals, they were never sold as, or intended to be, the $3500 Works Kit suspension that they sold and used on their Team bikes.
Very insightful Chuck. I've always wondered what the deal was on these forks (vs. actual works or A-kit forks). I have a couple sets of the green cap 48mm forks. Also, that's generous for you to offer 2 pounds. 'Round here, we offer only 2 cents... cheap Americans. Haha.
@@ryanlester761 i’ll try and dig out some old magazines, think an old MXA from 98 has an advert for the PC Works Kit for $3500 Forks/Shock. They came up with this kit so their team could use semi-factory suspension on their team bikes due to AMA rules for supercross. In the same way the 250 class can’t use full factory suspension today and needs to be available to AMA pro riders to buy for a maximum amount, back then the limit was $3500. Haha, thanks, but 2p is £0.02 (2 pence), the equivalent of your 2 cents haha. Well actually equates to around 3c so you’re still cheap americans😂
I appreciate you dropping this knowledge Chuck, this is super helpful and insightful. It's on me for not doing more research and asking questions about these units before pulling the trigger on them. I'm bummed for sure but no need to dwell on it. I've seen the actual one piece forks on a few builds so I know what you are referring to there, I know my kit isn't them but was still expecting more out of the internals. Cool to still have those forks caps though, which is what I suspected about them being flush. Do you know the purpose of the compression adjuster screwing into the push rod in these forks?
Haha right? I'm stoked that he dropped so much knowledge for us in the comments. I'd like to know what's in your 48's with those green caps. Glad I was able to tear these apart and decipher the differences even though it wasn't the outcome I was expecting, hoping, and paid for...Live and learn
On the fork bushings you said that the look worn, look at the other side, thats where the actual wear takes place. The side that you mentioned is where the actual bushing sits on the inner fork tube. If you look closely at these bushings you can actually see if they were misaligned by the wear of these bushings. I have been doing this stuff since the early 90's and I have seen my share of this stuff and only tryto be helpful. I am like everyone else on here, I was expecting to see more modifications than what is there. Great video and looking forward to seeing these all cleaned up!
Yes I agree get some digital calipers and measure the shims on the shock and measure both the diameter and the thickness of the shims. I have done the Race Tech revalve stuff myself a few times and the shim thickness is where the difference is. As we know Race Tech uses their own pistons as to other shops use the OEM piston and revalve the shims.
This mf was checking the outside of the guide bushing when he shoulda been looking at the inside. Youre looking for the black (Teflon) not the bronze😂. Don't have him take the stack apart he'll never get that back together right
That’s NOT a Pro-Circuit rear shock someone swapped it on the guy or he didn’t know we had a works kit from PC and it way different, so don’t invest to much into it unless you don’t really care.
You've gotta look at the mid-valve! That's where most of the magic happens in forks is through the midvalve. I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same like the shocks though. If you do, it would be awesome to share your findings on the shim stack.
True story right there! I'll need to dig a little deeper on the mid valve situation in the fork. Need to do some more research before I dive into it myself.
A bit disappointing in the difference! I was expecting a lot more. Makes you wonder if all the kit components were swapped out at some point in time. Especially the valving being identical to OEM..
Right dude?! I was really surprised myself. Disappointed to say the least. Maybe the valve assembly in the fork cartridges are different but man was I expecting more. I was shocked that the valving was the same too in the shock. I don't get it lol
I actually raced with the "works" kit shown. The top blue cap was called a flush mount cap because the Kawasaki turned so badly that Pro Circuit made these to lower the forks in the clamps without hitting the bars. This was also the timeframe when they introduced the 20" front wheel. I had both on my race bike. It turned slightly better but the frame was too flexy for the massive swingarm. The frames were weak too as I broke them 5 different times! Kinda was an era when there were junk bikes and this was one if you ask me!
Thank you for that input my man! Do you know why the rebound adjuster screwed into the push rod as well with those caps? Also, for my rebuild, I've heard some things about those frames being flexy and weak as well so i had a gentleman reinforce the frame with gussets and welds like the factory teams did back then to help stiffen it up. Thanks again!
Why would lowering the forks in the clamps hit the bars...? That only happens when you slide the forks too far up in the clamps, which lowers the front end of the bike, changes it's rake, and helping it turn tighter...but if you're raising them that much in the clamps, I'm sure PC has different triple tree with different offsets to compensate/compliment the drastic change in fork height.
your rebound nut is really the base valve compression. Rebound and mid valve is in the cartridge tube . Valving shims is where the magic happens . The shock piston has been surfaced to clean it up. The PC piston is stock and not surfaced to clean it up.
Wow!!! This was a huge shocker to me!!! I was expecting some black magic or voodoo inside the works suspension. I wonder if there are different levels works suspension depending on the riders? Thanks for another great video, Greg!!!
Yes, there were different level of kit stuff, obviously what the teams were actually using on race day were much different and there are a rare couple sets out there. I wasn't expecting full blown but was expecting a little something more, ya know.
Not kyb A or B kit stuff just stockers with some of PC fork bits added or changed. It just has a cool name. Those kits weren't very expensive was low budget stuff.
Well perhaps production suspension is the same now as old school a kit stuff. James and Ricky often say how good bikes are today. Makes me wonder if the factory stuff today has evolved or still similar.
Pretty much! I know there was different levels for the kit stuff that they could have, and I wasn't expecting the full blown stuff they they actually used but something a little more at least lol.
Maybe the original suspension was so good that it didn't take much to make it an "A" kit. Factory forks are "good for everyone" works kits are modified for the specific rider. Did you disassemble the valve stack and MIC everything? Maybe the shim stacks are different. Maybe nowadays, with all the coatings, the improvements in tech, makes a bigger difference on the internals. Either way, nice video! Thanks for sharing.
Wow...the video that Pro Circuit didn't want us to see!!!! Yet another perfectly timed video Greg, I've been debating whether I should upgrade my 99's suspension and my conclusion is now a resounding NO. You just saved me a stack of cash bud 👊
Haha well let me say that I was expecting more out of the internals in terms of "works" type stuff, which is certainly different than their revalve and rebuild services. It's not a video to beat them up about what they did and didn't do with their works stuff 24 years ago lol I don't know the back story enough. Plus their 100% race, works stuff was one piece and did include different internals. Check out cdavies comment on this video for a better explanation. He's got great info on it. When I get the suspension back from coatings, I am still sending it to Pro Circuit to get revalved and sprung for my weight and ability. The "works" parts would have been a bonus for sure, based on what I thought I bought, but that is not to take away from the standard servicing they offer. They are some of the best in the business for that. So long story short, I would still highly recommend sending your suspension out for a revalve and proper springs, it will make a world of difference compared to stock! PC knows these older open chamber KYB set ups better than anybody so that is still my recommendation🙌🏼. Sooo whether I saved you money or not, that is up to you haha my bad bro!!🤣
Maybe the original suspension was so good that it didn't take much to make it an "A" kit. Factory forks are "good for everyone" works kits are modified for the specific rider. Maybe nowadays, with all the coatings, the improvements in tech, makes a bigger difference on the internals. Either way, nice video! Thanks for sharing
1- You will not damage the internals if you do not softern clickers. Just makes it harder to seperate and especially bleed as the beeld are more restricked. Also PC A-Kit forks are not true A-Kit forks, they are frakenstien A-Kits. I have had both 49mm PC and Factory Only A-Kits (Showa) that I ran on a 2008 CRF450. The PC kits was bought directly from PC and the Factory only was bought from a Friend that had connections and the Forks/Shock were David Milsaps 2008 SX kit and there is no compairsion between the two with internals. Everything in the Factory Only Showa was coated and pistons were milled as well as having 19mm dampening rods that ran 24mm face shim on the MV and a 34mm Face shim on the BV. The PC's had 22mm MV and 32mm BV with a 16mm inner Dampner rod. Shock was the same everything was polished and coated. Larger piston ports and port shape as well as the HSC adj was a different design
Here’s a trick when you purchase a new bike, before you send your shock out for a re-valve, bleed the shock with good oil and set the proper nitrogen pressure, I never came across a shock that had more than 80 psi, Honda motorcycle mechanic for 27 years
You seem to remove the fork bushes off in the wrong order to me, the thinner bush that has the grey teflon on the inside comes off after the wide split bush comes off . plus when you were talking about wear in them you were looking at the wrong surface , the grey teflon is the wear point, this is the surface that either contacts the aluminium top tube (wide split bush) or the chrome of the stanchion (narrow solid bush)🤷🏻♂️
Factory wrench makes a nice fork cap wrench master set!!! Money money money 😅 but it is a nice set that comes with near every cap wrench, ktech also makes full kits !!
You should ask bones, if this really is a true ser or works kit forks they used? Did you use a caliper to measure the shims? By the look of it, it feels like a spacer at the clevis and the different cap is not enough to justify them as kit, should be more differences, but also if the springs are unobtanium. Nvth looking forward to the end results after coatings etc. 👍🏼
That is a good idea! i'll have to take a digital caliper to them to measure the thickness of the shims and weigh them out. To my hands they felt the same lol but I should double check just in case. I do wonder about the spring though, titanium perhaps? I wonder how it may be different. I'll weigh those out too.
Kind of a bummer. I hope you didn't get taken. You could always ask PC what they think. I dont think its really "Top Secret" stuff anymore. Its just specs, coatings and larger MM, i believe.
Thanks my dude, I bought them from a buddy who I trust very much with getting this type of stuff. Some stuff is more in depth than others and you don't know what you have until you open it up. I will be calling PC to find out more as well.
Wow, unless theres a huge difference in the midvalve, it's the exact same fork and shock as what came on your bike, you just paid more for it than you do your whole bike.... I'm wondering where he got it from.. Was this a 'works' kit the public could buy and he bought it from some random person..? or did Mitch remove it all before it was sold to prevent anyone from getting their hands on his suspension at the time? If it was available to the public, I'm wondering if the guy kept all the really special internals and replaced everything with stock valving and shim stacks... If that's seriously their 'works' shock and forks, all you need is to get it re-sprung, potentially a different mid valve, along with the spacer on the shock below the bumper, along with a different bumper, and you got yourself 1999 'works' suspension.... there ain't no way that's all they had in their PC bikes. Even the shock bladder was the same...it really doesn't make sense. I'd hate to think Mitch rips people off that badly if he was selling stock stuff to the public for that price...and if he was, how did no one realize it? You could use your stock upper and lower forktubes, all the internals, and spend $800 which would include fork and shock valving if the mid valve is different, change spring rate, different shock bumper and spacer, replace all worn parts, add new oil, and buy the different fork cap/pushrod system to change the clicker adjustment and be running supposed works stuff....Even if the mid valve is entirely different and that's where all the magic is, how is that justify the cost and why you need to buy the whole fork and shock as a kit, rather than use your existing stock stuff to build it from? Idk what he sold the kits for back then, but a couple years ago the works stuff he was selling for the current bikes was more than a brand new bike...I hope he's not doing similar stuff today as he did in '99, cause it's a total rip off if so.
Bud, if you need help with this topic, get ahold of me. Those are not " A " kit stuff. If you would like to see and take apart real a kit suspension let me know.
I have the works kit in my ‘96 KX. It’s a mod done to the forks where the change the bottoming system. There was no works kit shock. If that shock was revalved by PC it would have a different piston. Not sure what you have there but it’s not what you’re making it out to be.
Gotta think technology and times have changed would be cool to see current but that also brings me to these companies don’t like u knowing what they have u can prolly get best money can buy but it’s not what is on these factory teams
Honestly, your stock suspension is totally fine with a revalve and correct springs. Most of the time just correct springs and fresh oil and seals do a world of difference! What @chrisvids1820 is agreeable 100%!
4:40 The bronze coating on the inside of that bushing is not the wear surface and had nothing to do with the action of the fork. The coated "OD wear surface" was still in good shape. Sorry,---------Amateur.
Definitely not A kit forks. That’s just a simple off the shelf PC suspension revalve and novice or intermediate would’ve gotten at the time. Nothing special, just a small personalization for a rider.
bro i'm sure this is really interesting and informative but shouting into a mic that's 6 inches from your face makes it entirely unwatchable. all the best.
I think there’s always a bit of confusion around this point so i’ll throw my 2p in…
This stuff was never Works Kit suspension by Pro Circuit. It may have come with those Works Kit fork decals but it was a few small parts that they sold that you added to your OEM suspension for a few hundred dollars. Riders felt the 99 was too long so Bones had those fork caps designed so you could push the forks further through the clamps without hitting the handlebars.
Pro Circuit’s actual ‘Works Kit’ suspension (the stuff the guys on the team used) was actually sold to the public and cost around $3500 for forks and shock in 1999. It was still partly based on a stock fork but used one-piece upper tubes that were Kashima coated, DLC coated lower tubes with the OEM cast lugs hard anodised. They used the flush fork caps and had quite a few internal changes (lots of the plastic parts are replaced with coated aluminium ones etc.
The shock was a 2 piece construction with Kashima coated aluminium mated to a sand cast upper piece with different compression/rebound adjusters.
So yeah, whilst the parts in your forks may have come as a Kit from PC with those fork decals, they were never sold as, or intended to be, the $3500 Works Kit suspension that they sold and used on their Team bikes.
Very insightful Chuck. I've always wondered what the deal was on these forks (vs. actual works or A-kit forks). I have a couple sets of the green cap 48mm forks. Also, that's generous for you to offer 2 pounds. 'Round here, we offer only 2 cents... cheap Americans. Haha.
@@ryanlester761 i’ll try and dig out some old magazines, think an old MXA from 98 has an advert for the PC Works Kit for $3500 Forks/Shock. They came up with this kit so their team could use semi-factory suspension on their team bikes due to AMA rules for supercross. In the same way the 250 class can’t use full factory suspension today and needs to be available to AMA pro riders to buy for a maximum amount, back then the limit was $3500.
Haha, thanks, but 2p is £0.02 (2 pence), the equivalent of your 2 cents haha. Well actually equates to around 3c so you’re still cheap americans😂
I appreciate you dropping this knowledge Chuck, this is super helpful and insightful. It's on me for not doing more research and asking questions about these units before pulling the trigger on them. I'm bummed for sure but no need to dwell on it. I've seen the actual one piece forks on a few builds so I know what you are referring to there, I know my kit isn't them but was still expecting more out of the internals. Cool to still have those forks caps though, which is what I suspected about them being flush. Do you know the purpose of the compression adjuster screwing into the push rod in these forks?
Haha right? I'm stoked that he dropped so much knowledge for us in the comments. I'd like to know what's in your 48's with those green caps. Glad I was able to tear these apart and decipher the differences even though it wasn't the outcome I was expecting, hoping, and paid for...Live and learn
This is very common when race bikes at the higher level get sold they always take the good stuff out and make the shock and forks pretty much stock
On the fork bushings you said that the look worn, look at the other side, thats where the actual wear takes place. The side that you mentioned is where the actual bushing sits on the inner fork tube. If you look closely at these bushings you can actually see if they were misaligned by the wear of these bushings. I have been doing this stuff since the early 90's and I have seen my share of this stuff and only tryto be helpful. I am like everyone else on here, I was expecting to see more modifications than what is there. Great video and looking forward to seeing these all cleaned up!
Thank you for providing that insight, very interesting to note the misalignment of those bushings. Much apprecaited!
@@GregHitchko anytime sir and this is a great video!! :)
Greg, you needed to measure the thickness of the shims/stacks to verify that they were the same.
Great video as usual.
Yes I agree get some digital calipers and measure the shims on the shock and measure both the diameter and the thickness of the shims. I have done the Race Tech revalve stuff myself a few times and the shim thickness is where the difference is. As we know Race Tech uses their own pistons as to other shops use the OEM piston and revalve the shims.
This mf was checking the outside of the guide bushing when he shoulda been looking at the inside. Youre looking for the black (Teflon) not the bronze😂. Don't have him take the stack apart he'll never get that back together right
That’s NOT a Pro-Circuit rear shock someone swapped it on the guy or he didn’t know we had a works kit from PC and it way different, so don’t invest to much into it unless you don’t really care.
@@aaronbright5028 This mf was just making sure you were paying attention 🤣
You've gotta look at the mid-valve! That's where most of the magic happens in forks is through the midvalve. I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same like the shocks though. If you do, it would be awesome to share your findings on the shim stack.
True story right there! I'll need to dig a little deeper on the mid valve situation in the fork. Need to do some more research before I dive into it myself.
A bit disappointing in the difference! I was expecting a lot more. Makes you wonder if all the kit components were swapped out at some point in time. Especially the valving being identical to OEM..
Right dude?! I was really surprised myself. Disappointed to say the least. Maybe the valve assembly in the fork cartridges are different but man was I expecting more. I was shocked that the valving was the same too in the shock. I don't get it lol
If you had the choice would you rather get a new suspension kit or revalve on a new bike.
I believe you got ripped off thats definitely not a kit suspension
@@Hurricanen1172revalve. You will have to do that to any Suspension kit anyways unless you buy Brand new pre valved for you
even today, new kyb kit stuff is the same as production stuff, just coatings, billet lugs, and a triple adjuster on the shock.
I actually raced with the "works" kit shown. The top blue cap was called a flush mount cap because the Kawasaki turned so badly that Pro Circuit made these to lower the forks in the clamps without hitting the bars. This was also the timeframe when they introduced the 20" front wheel. I had both on my race bike. It turned slightly better but the frame was too flexy for the massive swingarm. The frames were weak too as I broke them 5 different times! Kinda was an era when there were junk bikes and this was one if you ask me!
Thank you for that input my man! Do you know why the rebound adjuster screwed into the push rod as well with those caps?
Also, for my rebuild, I've heard some things about those frames being flexy and weak as well so i had a gentleman reinforce the frame with gussets and welds like the factory teams did back then to help stiffen it up. Thanks again!
This makes sense as to why Carmichael was trashing a frame every week or two on his bikes.
Why would lowering the forks in the clamps hit the bars...? That only happens when you slide the forks too far up in the clamps, which lowers the front end of the bike, changes it's rake, and helping it turn tighter...but if you're raising them that much in the clamps, I'm sure PC has different triple tree with different offsets to compensate/compliment the drastic change in fork height.
your rebound nut is really the base valve compression. Rebound and mid valve is in the cartridge tube . Valving shims is where the magic happens . The shock piston has been surfaced to clean it up. The PC piston is stock and not surfaced to clean it up.
Thanks for dropping that knowledge!
Wow!!! This was a huge shocker to me!!! I was expecting some black magic or voodoo inside the works suspension. I wonder if there are different levels works suspension depending on the riders? Thanks for another great video, Greg!!!
Yes, there were different level of kit stuff, obviously what the teams were actually using on race day were much different and there are a rare couple sets out there. I wasn't expecting full blown but was expecting a little something more, ya know.
Not kyb A or B kit stuff just stockers with some of PC fork bits added or changed. It just has a cool name. Those kits weren't very expensive was low budget stuff.
Thanks for dropping that knowledge on it, that seems like it is very well the case. I'm going to get in contact with PC to discuss them more.
Another cool video. Awesome to see the difference or lack of difference.
Thanks Chris! I feel you on that, good to have some piece of mind behind the mystery that was dangling over my head about them.
You have to measure the thicknesses of the shims. That's what creates stiffening effects.
Took them apart and measured them to be the same, no difference unfortunately.
it was probably put back to stock before it was sold
Great video Greg!!
Thanks man! Glad to have broken both of these sets down to find out the differences.
Well perhaps production suspension is the same now as old school a kit stuff. James and Ricky often say how good bikes are today. Makes me wonder if the factory stuff today has evolved or still similar.
Pretty much! I know there was different levels for the kit stuff that they could have, and I wasn't expecting the full blown stuff they they actually used but something a little more at least lol.
Maybe the original suspension was so good that it didn't take much to make it an "A" kit. Factory forks are "good for everyone" works kits are modified for the specific rider. Did you disassemble the valve stack and MIC everything? Maybe the shim stacks are different.
Maybe nowadays, with all the coatings, the improvements in tech, makes a bigger difference on the internals. Either way, nice video! Thanks for sharing.
Wow...the video that Pro Circuit didn't want us to see!!!!
Yet another perfectly timed video Greg, I've been debating whether I should upgrade my 99's suspension and my conclusion is now a resounding NO.
You just saved me a stack of cash bud 👊
Haha well let me say that I was expecting more out of the internals in terms of "works" type stuff, which is certainly different than their revalve and rebuild services. It's not a video to beat them up about what they did and didn't do with their works stuff 24 years ago lol I don't know the back story enough. Plus their 100% race, works stuff was one piece and did include different internals. Check out cdavies comment on this video for a better explanation. He's got great info on it.
When I get the suspension back from coatings, I am still sending it to Pro Circuit to get revalved and sprung for my weight and ability. The "works" parts would have been a bonus for sure, based on what I thought I bought, but that is not to take away from the standard servicing they offer. They are some of the best in the business for that. So long story short, I would still highly recommend sending your suspension out for a revalve and proper springs, it will make a world of difference compared to stock! PC knows these older open chamber KYB set ups better than anybody so that is still my recommendation🙌🏼. Sooo whether I saved you money or not, that is up to you haha my bad bro!!🤣
Maybe the original suspension was so good that it didn't take much to make it an "A" kit. Factory forks are "good for everyone" works kits are modified for the specific rider. Maybe nowadays, with all the coatings, the improvements in tech, makes a bigger difference on the internals. Either way, nice video! Thanks for sharing
@FutureMammoth then why give the company your weight and skill level
1- You will not damage the internals if you do not softern clickers. Just makes it harder to seperate and especially bleed as the beeld are more restricked.
Also PC A-Kit forks are not true A-Kit forks, they are frakenstien A-Kits. I have had both 49mm PC and Factory Only A-Kits (Showa) that I ran on a 2008 CRF450. The PC kits was bought directly from PC and the Factory only was bought from a Friend that had connections and the Forks/Shock were David Milsaps 2008 SX kit and there is no compairsion between the two with internals. Everything in the Factory Only Showa was coated and pistons were milled as well as having 19mm dampening rods that ran 24mm face shim on the MV and a 34mm Face shim on the BV. The PC's had 22mm MV and 32mm BV with a 16mm inner Dampner rod. Shock was the same everything was polished and coated. Larger piston ports and port shape as well as the HSC adj was a different design
i bet the difference is in tolerances on the part. i mean pairing them up the most closest to the ideal dims on the pro vs rest on the oem.
Where did u buy them from? If you didnt buy them directly from PC, you never know through the years whos done what with them
Should tear the valve stacks apart and compare them I’ll bet there is quite a difference there
Here’s a trick when you purchase a new bike, before you send your shock out for a re-valve, bleed the shock with good oil and set the proper nitrogen pressure, I never came across a shock that had more than 80 psi, Honda motorcycle mechanic for 27 years
I can’t believe a snap ring is all that keeps our forks from coming apart while we are riding
You need to use dial calipers to check diameters and thickness in shims
You seem to remove the fork bushes off in the wrong order to me, the thinner bush that has the grey teflon on the inside comes off after the wide split bush comes off . plus when you were talking about wear in them you were looking at the wrong surface , the grey teflon is the wear point, this is the surface that either contacts the aluminium top tube (wide split bush) or the chrome of the stanchion (narrow solid bush)🤷🏻♂️
Factory wrench makes a nice fork cap wrench master set!!! Money money money 😅 but it is a nice set that comes with near every cap wrench, ktech also makes full kits !!
You should ask bones, if this really is a true ser or works kit forks they used? Did you use a caliper to measure the shims? By the look of it, it feels like a spacer at the clevis and the different cap is not enough to justify them as kit, should be more differences, but also if the springs are unobtanium.
Nvth looking forward to the end results after coatings etc. 👍🏼
That is a good idea! i'll have to take a digital caliper to them to measure the thickness of the shims and weigh them out. To my hands they felt the same lol but I should double check just in case. I do wonder about the spring though, titanium perhaps? I wonder how it may be different. I'll weigh those out too.
@@GregHitchko I think Davies came with some valid points.
@@mikebrown41182 he really does, stoked he shared those points 🙌🏼
the top is the rebound clicker and the comp is at the bottom
I 100% misspoke on that one!
Great job on video.. Terrible that ProCircuit has ripped people off on their PURPORTED "WORKS" SUSPENSION
Kind of a bummer. I hope you didn't get taken. You could always ask PC what they think. I dont think its really "Top Secret" stuff anymore. Its just specs, coatings and larger MM, i believe.
Thanks my dude, I bought them from a buddy who I trust very much with getting this type of stuff. Some stuff is more in depth than others and you don't know what you have until you open it up. I will be calling PC to find out more as well.
Wow, unless theres a huge difference in the midvalve, it's the exact same fork and shock as what came on your bike, you just paid more for it than you do your whole bike....
I'm wondering where he got it from.. Was this a 'works' kit the public could buy and he bought it from some random person..? or did Mitch remove it all before it was sold to prevent anyone from getting their hands on his suspension at the time?
If it was available to the public, I'm wondering if the guy kept all the really special internals and replaced everything with stock valving and shim stacks... If that's seriously their 'works' shock and forks, all you need is to get it re-sprung, potentially a different mid valve, along with the spacer on the shock below the bumper, along with a different bumper, and you got yourself 1999 'works' suspension.... there ain't no way that's all they had in their PC bikes. Even the shock bladder was the same...it really doesn't make sense.
I'd hate to think Mitch rips people off that badly if he was selling stock stuff to the public for that price...and if he was, how did no one realize it? You could use your stock upper and lower forktubes, all the internals, and spend $800 which would include fork and shock valving if the mid valve is different, change spring rate, different shock bumper and spacer, replace all worn parts, add new oil, and buy the different fork cap/pushrod system to change the clicker adjustment and be running supposed works stuff....Even if the mid valve is entirely different and that's where all the magic is, how is that justify the cost and why you need to buy the whole fork and shock as a kit, rather than use your existing stock stuff to build it from? Idk what he sold the kits for back then, but a couple years ago the works stuff he was selling for the current bikes was more than a brand new bike...I hope he's not doing similar stuff today as he did in '99, cause it's a total rip off if so.
I rode a factory Honda once. I liked my stocker better. Mores not always better at least on a non-competitive level.
Yes that is very true! I've heard that many times about factory suspension set ups.
The red ring is a lowering spacer ..I think
Thought the rebound was at the top on those style forks ?
Thank you for the video
Bud, if you need help with this topic, get ahold of me. Those are not " A " kit stuff. If you would like to see and take apart real a kit suspension let me know.
The difference is the "KYB Works Kit" sticker.
Rebound and compression ??
Those are open chamber forks, so the top cap is rebound, not compression.
You are 100% correct, I misspoke, thank you for the correction.
I have the works kit in my ‘96 KX. It’s a mod done to the forks where the change the bottoming system. There was no works kit shock. If that shock was revalved by PC it would have a different piston. Not sure what you have there but it’s not what you’re making it out to be.
What was the change to the bottoming system in the fork?
You got the compression and rebound backwards
I think someone just got some pro curcuit graphics and said they were a kit.
Great video thanks
Thank you sir, hope you found value in it 🙏🏼💨
I didn’t turn my settings all the way soft when I took mine apart💀 whoops. Cool ass video though!
It's not the biggest of deals that you didn't but it's recommended. I wouldn't worry about it though, thanks dude!
Gotta think technology and times have changed would be cool to see current but that also brings me to these companies don’t like u knowing what they have u can prolly get best money can buy but it’s not what is on these factory teams
Right? I was certainly expecting something a little more updated out of the PC stuff for sure.
If you had the choice would you rather get a new suspension kit or revalve on a new bike.
Honestly, your stock suspension is totally fine with a revalve and correct springs. Most of the time just correct springs and fresh oil and seals do a world of difference! What @chrisvids1820 is agreeable 100%!
I thought the guy calling the open end wrench a socket was disappointing
.
My pleasure to disappoint 🤣. It's the first time I've ever misspoke, can you believe it haha
4:40 The bronze coating on the inside of that bushing is not the wear surface and had nothing to do with the action of the fork. The coated "OD wear surface" was still in good shape. Sorry,---------Amateur.
Obviously the PC have a more expensive stickers on it.
Seems this "Factory" Suspension is nothing but a Placebo! One Anodised Top Nut & 1 Red Bottom Shock spacer!! Someone got Ripped the F Off! 🤨
Cheers 👍
this is an old school race tech gold valve style kit for a bike to go with the oem components not A kit lol
I think you got took on the pro circuit stuff it all stock internals
I think you got ripped off bud. Because there has to be more to basically factory suspension. Or someone just threw pro circuit stickers on it
NGL, i think you got scammed. Im pretty sure you can buy those fork caps aftermarket
I bought them from an extremely trustworthy source in the industry so I will have to follow up!
@@GregHitchko i wonder if they swapped out the insides after they were used
I think you might have gotten ripped off. Valving and coatings especially are different. What you have is not factory suspension even remotely.
Whew, they audio on this one…voice is clipping the mic 100%. Great topic, just hard on the ears.
Definitely not A kit forks. That’s just a simple off the shelf PC suspension revalve and novice or intermediate would’ve gotten at the time. Nothing special, just a small personalization for a rider.
Another Pro Circuit rip off.
bro i'm sure this is really interesting and informative but shouting into a mic that's 6 inches from your face makes it entirely unwatchable. all the best.
I think I need to turn my hearing aid down next time I edit the video haha. All the better
Good video Greg. I bet those shims are different thicknesses. The amount of shims is not supposed to change from my understanding.
Interesting to note! I was wondering on the position of the shims as well, and how they weren't rearranged from OEM to fit that rider's spec.
Measured out the thickness of the shims and they are the same thicknesses unfortunately. So nothing different there!
@@GregHitchko crazy news. I'd expect different too.
I guess that means the factory nailed it.
@@someoneyouknow96 that's actually a really good way to look at it!