Thanks for the vid brother! And I gave up on the 97 98 power valve and found a 94 with a complete motor , I just have to rebuild it! So Ill be watching your vids about 50 times!
Heck yeah Stephen, that is awesome! More to come out of this engine soon. Part 3 teardown coming up next week, and then once I get the cylinder, and crank back from Millennium Technologies, it will be time for the rebuild video.
I'm going to be installing a new stator any tips on that regarding the timing marks not sure if the new one will have those marks on it since I haven't received it yet thanks
Thank you so much! These videos are amazing and very easy to follow along. Just picked up a 2000 kx250 and I couldn’t have asked for a better video series.
@@tylerranft2417 that's so rad dude! Stoked that these videos are helping you, it's the reason why I create these videos🙌🏼. I really appreciate the feedback Tyler. Keep me posted on your 2000 build!
Exactly what year is that engine? I've got one but it's missing the stator and I just want to figure out if I'm getting the correct one. Awesome vid thanks
I have a 98 kx 250 how do you replace the seal on the kipx valve on the clutch side of the engine you took it apart last video but never showed how to get to the seals an o ring I need to replace thouse an can’t find any video or any help on how to get to it
Were you able to get the rod removed form the cylinder? Once you do that you should just be able to use a pick or something to pull the seal out, if I am understanding you correctly? The seal for the rod at 11:15 in the video?
@@2vintageDeamonFan I've never changed that seal on the bike but i don't think you are able to without ripping the cylinder off to be able to flip it upside down to take the valves out in order to pull the rod out. It slides out towards the ignition side of the cylinder.
The wash on the dome of the piston is an accurate way to read how the bike is jetted. It looks like it was a tad rich. It should have a solid layer of carbon on the dome with clean spots about the size of a thumbnail where the transfer ports are. The wash on this is larger than that. Too lean and the dome will be solid carbon with no clean spots. The richer you go the cleaner the dome will be from fuel washing the carbon off.
DUDE THANK YOU FOR MAKING THIS!!!
Haha cheers dude! I hope it is able to help you out.
Thanks for the vid brother! And I gave up on the 97 98 power valve and found a 94 with a complete motor , I just have to rebuild it! So Ill be watching your vids about 50 times!
Heck yeah Stephen, that is awesome! More to come out of this engine soon. Part 3 teardown coming up next week, and then once I get the cylinder, and crank back from Millennium Technologies, it will be time for the rebuild video.
Great video , I do recommend anti seizing the threads on your flywheel puller, It will last a lot longer.
That is a great suggestion right there, never thought of that before. Thanks man!
Awesome video man
Thank you for the feedback James!
Saludos desde Ecuador
Estoy restaurando una modelo 98 kx
Another awesome video to make my life easier! You rock Greg.
That's great Alan! Cheers to that man. I appreciate the feedback. Part 3 of the teardown coming early next week.
Great video. I like to send my 2t cylinders to powerseal they are much cheaper and their work seems to be just as amazing as millennium
Thanks dude, and for sure that's definitely not a bad choice either!
Team Green
👍
There is just something about those green machines man!
I'm going to be installing a new stator any tips on that regarding the timing marks not sure if the new one will have those marks on it since I haven't received it yet thanks
Nice
Thanks dude!
How did you get the operating rod seal out? An was there an o ring?
What size does the flywheel puller need to be? the link you provided is sold out and does not give sizing anymore.
Updated the link in the video but here it is! Didn't realize that RM was out of the 27mm fly wheel pullers. amzn.to/48LHxhi
Thank you so much! These videos are amazing and very easy to follow along. Just picked up a 2000 kx250 and I couldn’t have asked for a better video series.
@@tylerranft2417 that's so rad dude! Stoked that these videos are helping you, it's the reason why I create these videos🙌🏼. I really appreciate the feedback Tyler. Keep me posted on your 2000 build!
Exactly what year is that engine? I've got one but it's missing the stator and I just want to figure out if I'm getting the correct one. Awesome vid thanks
No doubt dude! This is a 1999 specifically. Good luck on the search for a stator👍🏼
Did you get a stator and where did you get it from I got mine from ebay it said its a plug and play ready to go all the used ones looked like crap
Is it same process in reverse to re install?
For the most part, yes! I will be doing a rebuild video once the engine parts are all back!
I have a 98 kx 250 how do you replace the seal on the kipx valve on the clutch side of the engine you took it apart last video but never showed how to get to the seals an o ring I need to replace thouse an can’t find any video or any help on how to get to it
Were you able to get the rod removed form the cylinder? Once you do that you should just be able to use a pick or something to pull the seal out, if I am understanding you correctly? The seal for the rod at 11:15 in the video?
@@GregHitchko I wasn’t able to no. The rod will only pull so far an then it won’t come any further an the roller thing won’t come off the lever
@@GregHitchkoam I able to change the seal on the bike or do I haft to take the engine out?
@@2vintageDeamonFan I've never changed that seal on the bike but i don't think you are able to without ripping the cylinder off to be able to flip it upside down to take the valves out in order to pull the rod out. It slides out towards the ignition side of the cylinder.
@@GregHitchko is there a way I can sent you a picture of the diagram to show you what I mean?
The wash on the dome of the piston is an accurate way to read how the bike is jetted. It looks like it was a tad rich. It should have a solid layer of carbon on the dome with clean spots about the size of a thumbnail where the transfer ports are. The wash on this is larger than that. Too lean and the dome will be solid carbon with no clean spots. The richer you go the cleaner the dome will be from fuel washing the carbon off.
Thanks for leaving that feedback about how to better read the top of the piston and carbon layer, Mitchell. That is some awesome information!