Oh Dennis if you’re not you might find being a member of the Muzzleloader Forum. Lots of great folks from novice to expert that share advice and adventures. You are a perfect fit and if you have any questions about your knew Kibler there are plenty there that have already built them. Same with the American Long Gun Forum. Take care!
Hi Dennis my desired loading procedure for the range is powder followed by an over wad of tow . A nice ball of tow a little larger than the ball when rolled up tight, rammed home. Then bore butter a bit more than pea size (the tow will prevent the xtra lube from contaminating the powder). I have never had a problem with the powder not lighting off. Then my lubed patch (same lube). Ball driven home. I think what happens with a rifled barrel as you compress the xtra lube that I use over the over shot is that it fills the lands while you are setting the ball. Regardless it works! I have no difference in accuracy with the overshot followed by lube then lubed patch and ball. Like you i like a lot of lube! I’ve mentioned it on the forum but it was shrugged off not much interest shown. All I know is I get nice smooth reloads! I have a bunch of flax tow I purchased a few years ago from an online material supplier it’s called the Woolery. I do support Dixie but I only purchased tow from them once because you don’t get much. From the Woolery I got a big bag that will last a long time. Originally I was using it with my Brown Bess and Charleville. Then I graduated to paper cartridges so I don’t use it in them anymore but I do have another smooth bore that I will use it in. Lately I been shooting strictly rifles and I load them all the same. When I hear about folks breaking a ramrod some impaling themselves I just shake my head. If the patched ball will not go down with hand over hand loading then the barrel is fouled out. This is most noticeable to me on the smaller caliber but 50s and up can experience and do all the time. I’m hoping to get out Sunday it has finally stopped raining! As always Dennis thanks for sharing appreciate your comments back! Respectfully Joe
Hey there Joe. I got some tow from the Woolery and have been experimenting with it both as an over the powder wad and as a bore scrubber., I must say the first impressions are very favorable indeed. Thank you for recommending it. It works better than the cotton patch. Don’t know know why so many people will not use plenty of lube. Doesn’t make s as my sense at all.
Dennis thanks for trying it. For me it just works. Our forefathers used tow on their smooth bores. I’m curious if you ever test the number of shots you are able to get off. I’m flattered you took my recommendation! Keep your powder dry! Respectfully Joe
Thank you for recommending it. I knew of it and it’s usage but it took a prod from you to get me to order it. It works great as an over the powder wad. It also works to swab out the barrel in the field. I wrapped some around a bronze brush and it works great. Only problem is you have a heck of a time getting it out of your brush. I just got a tow worm yesterday from Smiling Fox Forge. I think it will work out perfectly. The tow is not likely to get stuck in the barrel as does a patch sometimes. I don’t know just how many shots I can get before having to swab the barrel. Depends a lot on how much powder I am using. Plinking around the farm using 60 grains of Goex I believe I can shoot indefinitely!! Or at least a bunch of times. Using 120 grain loads cuts down on the number of reloads drastically. Goex is a dirty powder. I would like to find some Swiss and try it.,Or start making my own. The channel Everything Black Powder say they make powder even cleaner than Swiss.
You have to come up to PA during the flintlock season. It starts the day after Christmas and lasts a little over a month. There are a lot of folks in the buckskins out there. Pretty easy hunts, find where they are eating. Basically early season tactics.
I’m in south west New Hampshire this week I was hoping to have some fun with the Maryland Rifle I have in 50 cal but the week was a washout. Pretty much sat around watching your videos. In the one I learned about your friend Gerry his health condition and how you and your other friend were trying get a rifle and other setup for him so he may hunt again. What a wonderful friend you were to him! Today watching this video again I heard you mention he passed away. Dennis my most sincere condolences on the loss of your friend Gerry! My how lucky you fellas are to have such a long wonderful friendship. God Bless!
Thank you for watching and for commenting. Our friend who passed was Gary. Myself and Jerry were working toward getting Gary back in the deer woods. He died on the very day we were to go hunting for the first time in 12 years. Jerry and I dedicated the season to Gary. The names Jerry and Gary sounds a lot alike on the video.
Your hold is rock solid great shooting I'm having my first flintlock built by a old GRRW gunsmith it's a leman trade rifle in .58 cal gonna take a while to learn how to shoot it if the lock is as fast as yours that will help !!
Got to love the Tennessee Mountain Rifle. Running powder through it is a blast. Am I to understand you live in Wyoming? Have several followers from that wonderful State. Wyoming is my wife and my favorite State. Hope to get back there one day. Thank you for watching.
To my knowledge Pa is the only state that has a flintlock only season. Good for you guys. We have a split season. The last three weeks are the last weeks of December and ends on the first Saturday of January. But that dammed blaze orange. I however choose to not go along with that on private lands, especially my own. Besides that there are very few hunters who take advantage of that season.
@@dennispritchardoutdoors7882 we get quite a lot of hunters in our flintlock season now, but very few out of all of them are buckskinners. Modern clothing is more prevalent. The state is very liberal in the sale of doe tags, but either sex can be taken with a flintlock. You will be very pleased with your Kibler. I have built several, they are beautiful when finished and shoot better than they look.
@@straightup160 I am very much looking forward to building my Woodsrunner. I have never built a rifle from a Kibler kit. I think they are perhaps at the top of the kits now. I ordered mine with a cherry stock since that, and to a lesser degree, walnut, was what was prevalent in my area of Virginia. I have had several folks from Pa tell me I should look into hunting there. Sounds pretty good to me. If by some good fortune I was able to do such a thing, would you happen to know of a place to start hunting? Pa is a rather big chunk of territory!!! Thank you for watching and for commenting. Dennis
@@dennispritchardoutdoors7882 The woods runner kits are the easiest of the Kibler kits to assemble, the locks are second to none. I built a cherry colonial the stock was vert light in color. I used a laurel mountain cherry stain, diluted a bit on it and it came out nice. It's the luck of the draw with the cherry wood as far as color goes. The rest that I built I used maple, fancy and xtra fancy and they are just beautiful. I can help out a bit with places to hunt but believe me they are fading fast. Post some pictures of your rifle when you get it finished.
@@straightup160 cherry , like all wood, oxidizes. It seems to oxidize a little quicker than most. But some of it wants to take about a century to darken up. I don’t want to wait around forever waiting for it to look a bit aged. My Poor Boy is about 50 years old and the cherry is a beautiful reddish color. But the Kibler needs to darken up fast. I will no doubt follow in your footsteps and stain it regardless of how light or dark it might be. The Laurel Mountain stain would be my choice also. Thank you so much for your comments. Probably I will never get back to Pa for a hunt, so where to hunt is really a non issue. Thank you for your offer. I will do a video of the build. I was considering the Southern Mountain Rifle, then the Woodsrunner came on the scene and I opted for it. The Woodsrunner, the Mountain, and the Tennessee Mountain rifles were very much in use around my area. Got to love flintlocks.
Love your Tennessee Rifle. I must have missed it did you mention the caliber? Many don’t use an over shot wad! But I do only instead of cloth I use a ball of flax tow followed by a pea size ball of lube (beeswax and olive oil) then a lubed patch the same lube followed by ball. I have found that it doubles the number of shots I can get off between swabbing. While you’re experimenting try it please and if able report your results. I was wondering why more don’t do it. It works great for me keeping the fouling nice and soft! When I don’t do it I find myself struggling to push another ball and patch down. I’ve tried it with Goex and Swiss powders. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Good morning Joe. Thank you for watching and for your comments. It appears that you and I are on the same page. Our experiences and thinking seem to parallel. I have not tried tow but I will one day. A reason that I have not tried it is I just have not taken the time to find it. And Dixie Gunworks cautioned against using it , particularly in cleaning the rifle. According to them small pieces can break off and remain at the breech. Then when loaded and fired those pieces are not expelled and remain as a smoldering ember, which can be extremely hazardous when you reload. The use of flax, in cleaning, is a primary cause of the charge igniting while loading. However using it as an over the powder wading should cause no such problem as it should be completely expelled upon firing. What I have found is that the material itself is not the whole answer. Whatever material used needs to meet two requirements, both of which are closely related. First it needs to completely seal off the bore and not allow any blow by to reach the main patch. Second it needs to be of sufficient quantity and toughness to accomplish this the entire time the bullet is traveling down the barrel. So far the soft cotton 3x3 inch shotgun cleaning patches have won the contest. I am going to try plain cotton balls soon. They might work even better than the patches. Or perhaps not. We will see. Since tow is a more dense and fibrous material I have question ed how well it would seal off the bore. It might do just fine, but logically it doesn’t seem likely. So protecting the main patch from the fire is of paramount importance. And enough good lube is necessary for follow up shots. If I use enough of the right lube I can keep on firing shot after shot. I have not found the limit as to how many shots I can fire until swabbing the bore becomes necessary. Without enough of the right lube swabbing is necessary after only a shot or two. Now here is my findings so far on lube. Bore Butter, beeswax and olive oil, is what I use. And I prefer it in two thicknesses. For a bullet lube, such as in Maxie balls , a thicker mix is required. But for lubing my patches I get much better results with a much thinner mix. A softer lube that spreads over the patch easily works better than the thicker mix that does not easily spread. The thicker mix does not soften the fouling good enough while the softer mix keeps the fouling soft and easier to reload. You said you use a pea sized ball of lube over the tow, so I suppose the lube is thick enough to form into a ball. Is that correct? If I feel I need a bit more lube I simply smear a little extra just inside the muzzle ahead of the patch. Works good for me. I will let you know how the cotton balls as an over the powder patch works. As to why more people do not use something over the powder I do not know. It works so well I am surprised that everyone doesn’t use it. Thank you again for your comments. Dennis
Good man Dennis! I don’t agree with Dixie’s assessment for a reason not to use it. Tow can certainly be problematic for the environment when you are shooting in a dry field simply can start a fire but the same applies to patches. The same holds true concerning lighting of powder in the barrel with a follow up shot. Think of the Revolutionary War and the use of paper cartridges. The paper always comes out smoldering. I love the smell of the burning paper and black powder reminds me of the Fourth of July and firecrackers! I shoot a lot of them out of my Brown Bess and Charleville. The Continentals and the British were capable of 4 sometimes 5 shots per minute. I wonder how often it actually occurred. Next time you’re out try a small amount over your overshot. The patch will protect the powder and as you are loading your next ball and patch it will force the lube into the lands the remaining into your overshot patch and help keep everything wet. I bet you will find you don’t struggle with the loading of your shots that follow. Looking forward to seeing any further videos! Oh if you are not already a member of the Muzzle Loader Forum you may enjoy it; I’m thinking you are already there. When you get that Kibler you can show it off there. That is a sweet Poor Boy! Take good care! Respectfully Joe
@@joemolf3894 we are certainly pretty much on the same page. We need to always be conscientious of the possibility of starting a fire. Even when using just your main patch, and No over the powder patch, you can easily start a fire. I have had to stomp out a few smoldering patches and smoking leaves before things got out of hand. I may not have explained Dixie’s reasoning well enough. If you go their sight and read what they have to say it makes sense. All they are doing is cautioning you of a possible problem. Just something to keep in mind. I am always interested in better ways to keep the bore well lubed so as to make reloading easier. If I shoot 60 grains just plinking around I can reload seemingly forever without swabbing the barrel , with a well lubed patch. All shots load easily. But my heavy hunting loads of 120 grains need a lot more lube. As in a LOT more. I asked you before, but probably didn’t make myself clear, do you drop a ball of lube down on top of your over the powder tow patch? And if so it must be a stiff , or heavy on the beeswax. I have found that what works best for me is a very soft mix, more olive oil and a bit less wax. If I feel that I need more lube I simply smear a bit more just inside the crown of the barrel. But I never quit experimenting. What I do today may be relegated to the trash heap tomorrow. One thing is for sure and that is, the world of black powder is fascinating!
Just the opposite. I went to the cap lock because I let myself run out of flints. I just got to trifling to reorder me some. Next thing you know a few years had passed. Then I whittled out a flint just for the heck of it, and re discovered how much more fun the flintlock is. I have muzzleloaders that are cap lock and I like them also, but I wish they were flint.
Oh Dennis if you’re not you might find being a member of the Muzzleloader Forum. Lots of great folks from novice to expert that share advice and adventures. You are a perfect fit and if you have any questions about your knew Kibler there are plenty there that have already built them. Same with the American Long Gun Forum. Take care!
Really enjoyed the video and always great to hear another black powder enthusiast. God Bless.
Well thank you Sir for watching and for commenting .
Hi Dennis my desired loading procedure for the range is powder followed by an over wad of tow . A nice ball of tow a little larger than the ball when rolled up tight, rammed home. Then bore butter a bit more than pea size (the tow will prevent the xtra lube from contaminating the powder). I have never had a problem with the powder not lighting off. Then my lubed patch (same lube). Ball driven home. I think what happens with a rifled barrel as you compress the xtra lube that I use over the over shot is that it fills the lands while you are setting the ball. Regardless it works! I have no difference in accuracy with the overshot followed by lube then lubed patch and ball. Like you i like a lot of lube! I’ve mentioned it on the forum but it was shrugged off not much interest shown. All I know is I get nice smooth reloads! I have a bunch of flax tow I purchased a few years ago from an online material supplier it’s called the Woolery. I do support Dixie but I only purchased tow from them once because you don’t get much. From the Woolery I got a big bag that will last a long time. Originally I was using it with my Brown Bess and Charleville. Then I graduated to paper cartridges so I don’t use it in them anymore but I do have another smooth bore that I will use it in. Lately I been shooting strictly rifles and I load them all the same. When I hear about folks breaking a ramrod some impaling themselves I just shake my head. If the patched ball will not go down with hand over hand loading then the barrel is fouled out. This is most noticeable to me on the smaller caliber but 50s and up can experience and do all the time. I’m hoping to get out Sunday it has finally stopped raining! As always Dennis thanks for sharing appreciate your comments back!
Respectfully Joe
Hey there Joe. I got some tow from the Woolery and have been experimenting with it both as an over the powder wad and as a bore scrubber., I must say the first impressions are very favorable indeed. Thank you for recommending it. It works better than the cotton patch.
Don’t know know why so many people will not use plenty of lube. Doesn’t make s as my sense at all.
Dennis thanks for trying it. For me it just works. Our forefathers used tow on their smooth bores. I’m curious if you ever test the number of shots you are able to get off. I’m flattered you took my recommendation! Keep your powder dry!
Respectfully
Joe
Thank you for recommending it. I knew of it and it’s usage but it took a prod from you to get me to order it. It works great as an over the powder wad. It also works to swab out the barrel in the field. I wrapped some around a bronze brush and it works great. Only problem is you have a heck of a time getting it out of your brush. I just got a tow worm yesterday from Smiling Fox Forge. I think it will work out perfectly. The tow is not likely to get stuck in the barrel as does a patch sometimes.
I don’t know just how many shots I can get before having to swab the barrel. Depends a lot on how much powder I am using. Plinking around the farm using 60 grains of Goex I believe I can shoot indefinitely!! Or at least a bunch of times. Using 120 grain loads cuts down on the number of reloads drastically. Goex is a dirty powder. I would like to find some Swiss and try it.,Or start making my own. The channel Everything Black Powder say they make powder even cleaner than Swiss.
You have to come up to PA during the flintlock season. It starts the day after Christmas and lasts a little over a month. There are a lot of folks in the buckskins out there. Pretty easy hunts, find where they are eating. Basically early season tactics.
Sounds good, but I have no idea where to start.
I’m in south west New Hampshire this week I was hoping to have some fun with the Maryland Rifle I have in 50 cal but the week was a washout. Pretty much sat around watching your videos. In the one I learned about your friend Gerry his health condition and how you and your other friend were trying get a rifle and other setup for him so he may hunt again. What a wonderful friend you were to him! Today watching this video again I heard you mention he passed away. Dennis my most sincere condolences on the loss of your friend Gerry! My how lucky you fellas are to have such a long wonderful friendship. God Bless!
Thank you for watching and for commenting. Our friend who passed was Gary. Myself and Jerry were working toward getting Gary back in the deer woods. He died on the very day we were to go hunting for the first time in 12 years. Jerry and I dedicated the season to Gary.
The names Jerry and Gary sounds a lot alike on the video.
Dennis sorry I got the names confused! Now back to watching your channel though not today the rain has finally stopped and the sun is out!
@@joemolf3894 enjoy the sun.
Great video.... I enjoyed watching it. I shoot black powder too. It's a lot of fun. I hope you have a Blessed Day my friend.
And thank you for watching.
Enjoyed the video Dennis! The questions I asked on a later video were answered in this one. I guess I need to look at them in order.🤣
Your hold is rock solid great shooting I'm having my first flintlock built by a old GRRW gunsmith it's a leman trade rifle in .58 cal gonna take a while to learn how to shoot it if the lock is as fast as yours that will help !!
Good luck with your new rifle. No matter how fast the lock is it is still a learning curve!!! Believe me I know.
Huuuuyyyyyyyyyyyy que bien 👌 de lujo esos traperos, o exploradores,o cazadores nunca se irán a acabarán
I have absolutely no idea what you just said, but whatever it is, thank you for saying it.
Your lock is nice and fast ! Looks like you just need to get your possibles a little more organized and easier to get to them quicker.
You could say , and be right, that I am out of practice!!!! 40+ years of rust.
Nice Tennessee Mountain Rifle. I have one exactly like it.
Got to love the Tennessee Mountain Rifle. Running powder through it is a blast.
Am I to understand you live in Wyoming? Have several followers from that wonderful State. Wyoming is my wife and my favorite State. Hope to get back there one day.
Thank you for watching.
You will love the kibler, and the pa season is long and fun. No orange. Pa the last couple of years was Wet.
To my knowledge Pa is the only state that has a flintlock only season. Good for you guys.
We have a split season. The last three weeks are the last weeks of December and ends on the first Saturday of January. But that dammed blaze orange.
I however choose to not go along with that on private lands, especially my own. Besides that there are very few hunters who take advantage of that season.
@@dennispritchardoutdoors7882 we get quite a lot of hunters in our flintlock season now, but very few out of all of them are buckskinners. Modern clothing is more prevalent. The state is very liberal in the sale of doe tags, but either sex can be taken with a flintlock. You will be very pleased with your Kibler. I have built several, they are beautiful when finished and shoot better than they look.
@@straightup160 I am very much looking forward to building my Woodsrunner. I have never built a rifle from a Kibler kit. I think they are perhaps at the top of the kits now. I ordered mine with a cherry stock since that, and to a lesser degree, walnut, was what was prevalent in my area of Virginia.
I have had several folks from Pa tell me I should look into hunting there. Sounds pretty good to me. If by some good fortune I was able to do such a thing, would you happen to know of a place to start hunting? Pa is a rather big chunk of territory!!!
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Dennis
@@dennispritchardoutdoors7882 The woods runner kits are the easiest of the Kibler kits to assemble, the locks are second to none. I built a cherry colonial the stock was vert light in color. I used a laurel mountain cherry stain, diluted a bit on it and it came out nice. It's the luck of the draw with the cherry wood as far as color goes. The rest that I built I used maple, fancy and xtra fancy and they are just beautiful. I can help out a bit with places to hunt but believe me they are fading fast. Post some pictures of your rifle when you get it finished.
@@straightup160 cherry , like all wood, oxidizes. It seems to oxidize a little quicker than most. But some of it wants to take about a century to darken up. I don’t want to wait around forever waiting for it to look a bit aged. My Poor Boy is about 50 years old and the cherry is a beautiful reddish color. But the Kibler needs to darken up fast. I will no doubt follow in your footsteps and stain it regardless of how light or dark it might be. The Laurel Mountain stain would be my choice also.
Thank you so much for your comments.
Probably I will never get back to Pa for a hunt, so where to hunt is really a non issue. Thank you for your offer.
I will do a video of the build. I was considering the Southern Mountain Rifle, then the Woodsrunner came on the scene and I opted for it. The Woodsrunner, the Mountain, and the Tennessee Mountain rifles were very much in use around my area.
Got to love flintlocks.
I have a Tennessee mountain rifle like yours. Mine is a lefty 50 caliber
My friend Gary, who just passed away had. lefty also.
Good rifles.
Love your Tennessee Rifle. I must have missed it did you mention the caliber? Many don’t use an over shot wad! But I do only instead of cloth I use a ball of flax tow followed by a pea size ball of lube (beeswax and olive oil) then a lubed patch the same lube followed by ball. I have found that it doubles the number of shots I can get off between swabbing. While you’re experimenting try it please and if able report your results. I was wondering why more don’t do it. It works great for me keeping the fouling nice and soft! When I don’t do it I find myself struggling to push another ball and patch down. I’ve tried it with Goex and Swiss powders. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Good morning Joe. Thank you for watching and for your comments. It appears that you and I are on the same page. Our experiences and thinking seem to parallel.
I have not tried tow but I will one day. A reason that I have not tried it is I just have not taken the time to find it. And Dixie Gunworks cautioned against using it , particularly in cleaning the rifle. According to them small pieces can break off and remain at the breech. Then when loaded and fired those pieces are not expelled and remain as a smoldering ember, which can be extremely hazardous when you reload. The use of flax, in cleaning, is a primary cause of the charge igniting while loading. However using it as an over the powder wading should cause no such problem as it should be completely expelled upon firing.
What I have found is that the material itself is not the whole answer. Whatever material used needs to meet two requirements, both of which are closely related. First it needs to completely seal off the bore and not allow any blow by to reach the main patch. Second it needs to be of sufficient quantity and toughness to accomplish this the entire time the bullet is traveling down the barrel. So far the soft cotton 3x3 inch shotgun cleaning patches have won the contest. I am going to try plain cotton balls soon. They might work even better than the patches. Or perhaps not. We will see.
Since tow is a more dense and fibrous material I have question ed how well it would seal off the bore. It might do just fine, but logically it doesn’t seem likely. So protecting the main patch from the fire is of paramount importance. And enough good lube is necessary for follow up shots. If I use enough of the right lube I can keep on firing shot after shot. I have not found the limit as to how many shots I can fire until swabbing the bore becomes necessary. Without enough of the right lube swabbing is necessary after only a shot or two.
Now here is my findings so far on lube. Bore Butter, beeswax and olive oil, is what I use. And I prefer it in two thicknesses. For a bullet lube, such as in Maxie balls , a thicker mix is required. But for lubing my patches I get much better results with a much thinner mix. A softer lube that spreads over the patch easily works better than the thicker mix that does not easily spread. The thicker mix does not soften the fouling good enough while the softer mix keeps the fouling soft and easier to reload.
You said you use a pea sized ball of lube over the tow, so I suppose the lube is thick enough to form into a ball. Is that correct?
If I feel I need a bit more lube I simply smear a little extra just inside the muzzle ahead of the patch. Works good for me.
I will let you know how the cotton balls as an over the powder patch works. As to why more people do not use something over the powder I do not know. It works so well I am surprised that everyone doesn’t use it.
Thank you again for your comments.
Dennis
Oh, it is a 50 cal
Good man Dennis! I don’t agree with Dixie’s assessment for a reason not to use it. Tow can certainly be problematic for the environment when you are shooting in a dry field simply can start a fire but the same applies to patches. The same holds true concerning lighting of powder in the barrel with a follow up shot. Think of the Revolutionary War and the use of paper cartridges. The paper always comes out smoldering. I love the smell of the burning paper and black powder reminds me of the Fourth of July and firecrackers! I shoot a lot of them out of my Brown Bess and Charleville. The Continentals and the British were capable of 4 sometimes 5 shots per minute. I wonder how often it actually occurred. Next time you’re out try a small amount over your overshot. The patch will protect the powder and as you are loading your next ball and patch it will force the lube into the lands the remaining into your overshot patch and help keep everything wet. I bet you will find you don’t struggle with the loading of your shots that follow. Looking forward to seeing any further videos!
Oh if you are not already a member of the Muzzle Loader Forum you may enjoy it; I’m thinking you are already there. When you get that Kibler you can show it off there. That is a sweet Poor Boy! Take good care! Respectfully Joe
@@joemolf3894 we are certainly pretty much on the same page. We need to always be conscientious of the possibility of starting a fire. Even when using just your main patch, and No over the powder patch, you can easily start a fire. I have had to stomp out a few smoldering patches and smoking leaves before things got out of hand.
I may not have explained Dixie’s reasoning well enough. If you go their sight and read what they have to say it makes sense. All they are doing is cautioning you of a possible problem. Just something to keep in mind. I am always interested in better ways to keep the bore well lubed so as to make reloading easier.
If I shoot 60 grains just plinking around I can reload seemingly forever without swabbing the barrel , with a well lubed patch. All shots load easily. But my heavy hunting loads of 120 grains need a lot more lube. As in a LOT more.
I asked you before, but probably didn’t make myself clear, do you drop a ball of lube down on top of your over the powder tow patch? And if so it must be a stiff , or heavy on the beeswax.
I have found that what works best for me is a very soft mix, more olive oil and a bit less wax. If I feel that I need more lube I simply smear a bit more just inside the crown of the barrel. But I never quit experimenting. What I do today may be relegated to the trash heap tomorrow.
One thing is for sure and that is, the world of black powder is fascinating!
You mentioned you went back to the flint is that because of no primers?
Just the opposite. I went to the cap lock because I let myself run out of flints. I just got to trifling to reorder me some. Next thing you know a few years had passed. Then I whittled out a flint just for the heck of it, and re discovered how much more fun the flintlock is. I have muzzleloaders that are cap lock and I like them also, but I wish they were flint.
Dennis Have you tried leather over powder patch.
Non Sir I haven’t. No doubt would work just fine.
Thank you for your comments.