Hey thanks for the guide. Seems to be a common problem. All was good, until I heard a "pop" once when depressing clutch. Then she was gone. After checking out your video, I went with the 'weld-in-place' idea. Removed the push rod (so as not to overheat and damage the rubber gasket) along with a couple other wires, etc. Then added some heat shielding to keep things from catching on fire (Did get a bit of smoking, melting old carpet, but who cares :) Put it all back together and she's back to "new" (for a 1990 with over 300k).
Unbelievable! I am so upset and relieved at the same time. I have the exact same truck with the exact same problem. My clutch would not fully disengage, so I replaced the slave, the master, the entire clutch line, and eventually dropped the transmission to replace the clutch. With no success. Only to notice the cracked bracket curiously. Then I found your video. Thank you! I'll update with my fixes.
Great info buddy I was thinking I messed pops truck up,not only did this lead me to my problem but before this I thought it was the shifter n I changed bushing on that allows gears to change as if truck was new.
Thanks for posting this video! I've got a 92 4x4 22re pickup. It seems that, although my pedal is adjusted all the way to the end of the rod, it travels all the way to the floor. Today, the pedal safety switch wouldn't work, and I had to use the bypass button to start the truck several times. The kicker was how hard it is to get into any gear especially Reverse (Surprise... Always been a bit tricky), 5th and 1st. First thing I do is stop at the first convenience store I find, and purchase a small bottle of Dot 3 (Something has got to be leaking, right?). Anyway, I pop the cap on the CMC, and it's as full as always. Hmmm... Next, I try to get the very last threads on the rod, and no change. DAMN! Now I'm thinking either the Master or Slave have some internal leaking, and simply not allowing pressure to build. I'm 20 miles away from home, in the middle of rush hour traffic, and I decided to go ahead, and drive it home as best as I can. I almost stopped along the way for a new hydraulic set,but I didn't want to get stuck somewhere away from home, just to wait several hours for a tow. By the time I got home, I was actually hearing what sounded like plastic cracking every time I pushed the pedal down. I'm beginning to wonder if I'm not pushing so hard on the pedal that it's starting to crack the floorboard/firewall. Anyway, I read a thread that sounded similar on YotaTech that someone thought they were having serious hydraulic issues, and someone piped in with the a cracked bracket possibility. You're not wrong when you say there's virtually nothing on TH-cam about it. I haven't actually looked at mine yet, but now I know exactly what I'm looking for. At this point, I'm 90% positive this is my issue. Once again, TH-cam is going to save my ass, and probably a good amount of money! Thanks again for this!🤓
I have the same problem with my 1990 4x4 pickup. I am glad there is a solution. I have taken her to 3 different mechanics to bleed and adjust the pedal with no help. The last guy told me I had an aftermarket disc and pressure plate that was out of spec. Nobody noticed that the bracket is cracked. Glad I didn't replace the disc and pressure plate. Thank you big time.
Had the same problem (%^(%&*%&*)%*&!!!!!!!) Found a used replacement and was somehow able to squeeze that piece of junk back in there, bolted it back together and it worked ever since. The cylinders were a bit bust too so just replaced them as well. thanks to videos like yours i figured it out. cheers.
Yea I got a 89 4x4 22re an I got the exact same crack as you u did. I haven't takin it apart yet but thanks for the video now I know how to take it out.
Hi and thank you for posting this. I worked at a Toyota body shop for years and have seen this before. My friend has a 92 Toyota pickup and today his clutch wouldn't completely disengage, grinding gears. lol. Its funny because everyone told him its, the clutch, the throwout bearing, the slave, the master, no just add fluid, Dot 3. All possible!!! Before he replaced anything i was able to look at it. If you grab the clutch pedal and pull it hard side to side you can hear the squeaking and feel the play. He was just glad to find it before spending any money unnecessarily. I love to remove, repair, & replace, its definitely the right way to go. But on this particular 25 year old truck. Pull the carpet back use a very damp towel on the floor, have a friend on the other side with a spray water bottle (a garden hose for some), then use the wire feed welder to load the shit out of it. Its not always pretty but its stronger than new, very fast to do, and you never see it. If your set up to do this kind of work and you don't catch your truck or yourself on fire it takes about a half an hour.
Wrong!!! it will come out through the bottom... did it just now.. take the bottom dash panel off, disconnect the steering shaft, brake & clutch rod, brake light switch and clutch bypass switch and it will come right on out..
Glad to see you show the steps for removing this bracket. I was getting ready to replace the master cylinder and slave cylinder. I wasn't totally convinced that those parts were bad. Got looking at the action of the clutch pedal and noticed the cracked bracket. Mine looks identical to this one. Sure looks like that is the root of the problem. I was thinking through what it would take to get it out and took a look here and found this! Thanks. Very helpful.
Good video. I came across some discussion on the forums regarding these clutch pedal brackets cracking, and decided to check mine on my '94 22RE XtraCab 4x4 even though my clutch works fine. Figured that if I caught it in the process of cracking that maybe it'd be easier to save it rather than get caught off guard later and/or get stranded. Surprisingly, I can't see any cracking. Dunno if they changed the design or anything but from the 5 min look with my head on the floorboard, I see mine doesn't have that hole right next to the master cylinder hole -- the one that the crack goes to in the video. Still tempted to do something to prevent it from happening in the first place.
This just happened to break on me today in the drive-thru. Mine broke through the master cylinder hole. Had to spot weld Just to get it home. I'll either be replacing or repairing after removing it. Great video though! Just what I needed to see!
I've had this problem going on twice already, possibly even 3 times as of now. Only 4 months ago I had my clutch bracket welded again for my 1991 4runner 3.0 V6. I noticed 1 month ago that it started acting up again so I'm thinking of removing a clutch bracket from a newer generation 4runner to see if they are identical so I can use a good used quality bracket. I'm also considering cutting off the clutch part of the bracket and creating a custom piece myself. Or the second option would be to buy the clutch rod about 3/4" to 1" longer than normal so that the clutch pedal presses the longer rod all the way into the clutch master cylinder so that the clutch achieves full disengagement. Right now I'm not sure if I got a new crack on the bracket or if the bracket got warped for welding it once too many times; but I do hear like some crackling like if the clutch wire is the one that is rusty on the inside & is about to crack. I had that experience over 15 years ago on some NIssan Sentra. I would hate to pay $200 for a new bracket from Yotashop or somewhere else. But then again, it should last another 20 years.
I may be experiencing this issue right now. Just started happening so I changed the clutch master and slave but it still does it. Intermittently. Coming to a stop, I put it in neutral but when I stop the truck, it bangs like it's still in gear for a second and pops out.
That wasn't a crack , the rust has taken its toll on the inside of your vehicle. You no doubt live up North where the salty roads are. Id bet the underside of the vehicle is worse the the pedal bracket.
Thanks for the great video. I just bought a 94 and the clutch has been replaced twice in 147k. The clutch still doesn't feel right and is barely disengaging at the bottom of the pedal stroke. I'm certainly going to check the bracket as a possible problem.
Thanks for this...I just ran into the same exact problem on my Aunties truck...I did the exact same thing, changed master and slave cylinders and still not disengaging properly. While trying to adjust the rod I finally looked past it and found the crack on the bracket. I was actually looking around to see if welding is a possibility. 😁
Hey Matt, you did a great job, I cannot tell you how many times I view a video that I need to understand and the presenter either is not clear in describing or has too thick an accent or has the camera swaying like he is on a ship in a storm. I do notice that the truck looks like it was in a war and I chuckled when I saw some parts of it and I tip my hat off to you for identifying and resurrecting that old 1990 Toyota Truck. I have a 1998 Corolla with manual transmission and will keep your video in mind should I have that problem. My Corolla has 292,000 miles on it and I still love it. Good presentation.Vinnie in Cincinnati
Hey thanks for the guide. Seems to be a common problem. All was good, until I heard a "pop" once when depressing clutch. Then she was gone. After checking out your video, I went with the 'weld-in-place' idea. Removed the push rod (so as not to overheat and damage the rubber gasket) along with a couple other wires, etc. Then added some heat shielding to keep things from catching on fire (Did get a bit of smoking, melting old carpet, but who cares :) Put it all back together and she's back to "new" (for a 1990 with over 300k).
Unbelievable! I am so upset and relieved at the same time. I have the exact same truck with the exact same problem. My clutch would not fully disengage, so I replaced the slave, the master, the entire clutch line, and eventually dropped the transmission to replace the clutch. With no success. Only to notice the cracked bracket curiously. Then I found your video. Thank you! I'll update with my fixes.
Great info buddy I was thinking I messed pops truck up,not only did this lead me to my problem but before this I thought it was the shifter n I changed bushing on that allows gears to change as if truck was new.
Thanks for posting this video!
I've got a 92 4x4 22re pickup. It seems that, although my pedal is adjusted all the way to the end of the rod, it travels all the way to the floor. Today, the pedal safety switch wouldn't work, and I had to use the bypass button to start the truck several times. The kicker was how hard it is to get into any gear especially Reverse (Surprise... Always been a bit tricky), 5th and 1st.
First thing I do is stop at the first convenience store I find, and purchase a small bottle of Dot 3 (Something has got to be leaking, right?). Anyway, I pop the cap on the CMC, and it's as full as always.
Hmmm...
Next, I try to get the very last threads on the rod, and no change.
DAMN!
Now I'm thinking either the Master or Slave have some internal leaking, and simply not allowing pressure to build.
I'm 20 miles away from home, in the middle of rush hour traffic, and I decided to go ahead, and drive it home as best as I can. I almost stopped along the way for a new hydraulic set,but I didn't want to get stuck somewhere away from home, just to wait several hours for a tow. By the time I got home, I was actually hearing what sounded like plastic cracking every time I pushed the pedal down.
I'm beginning to wonder if I'm not pushing so hard on the pedal that it's starting to crack the floorboard/firewall.
Anyway, I read a thread that sounded similar on YotaTech that someone thought they were having serious hydraulic issues, and someone piped in with the a cracked bracket possibility.
You're not wrong when you say there's virtually nothing on TH-cam about it.
I haven't actually looked at mine yet, but now I know exactly what I'm looking for. At this point, I'm 90% positive this is my issue.
Once again, TH-cam is going to save my ass, and probably a good amount of money!
Thanks again for this!🤓
Does anyone know where I can buy this exact bracket? Part number? Thanks
good video. It’s actually 4 bolts to drop the steering wheel. 😎
I have the same problem with my 1990 4x4 pickup. I am glad there is a solution. I have taken her to 3 different mechanics to bleed and adjust the pedal with no help. The last guy told me I had an aftermarket disc and pressure plate that was out of spec. Nobody noticed that the bracket is cracked. Glad I didn't replace the disc and pressure plate. Thank you big time.
Had the same problem (%^(%&*%&*)%*&!!!!!!!) Found a used replacement and was somehow able to squeeze that piece of junk back in there, bolted it back together and it worked ever since. The cylinders were a bit bust too so just replaced them as well. thanks to videos like yours i figured it out. cheers.
Yea I got a 89 4x4 22re an I got the exact same crack as you u did. I haven't takin it apart yet but thanks for the video now I know how to take it out.
Hi and thank you for posting this. I worked at a Toyota body shop for years and have seen this before. My friend has a 92 Toyota pickup and today his clutch wouldn't completely disengage, grinding gears. lol. Its funny because everyone told him its, the clutch, the throwout bearing, the slave, the master, no just add fluid, Dot 3. All possible!!! Before he replaced anything i was able to look at it. If you grab the clutch pedal and pull it hard side to side you can hear the squeaking and feel the play. He was just glad to find it before spending any money unnecessarily.
I love to remove, repair, & replace, its definitely the right way to go. But on this particular 25 year old truck. Pull the carpet back use a very damp towel on the floor, have a friend on the other side with a spray water bottle (a garden hose for some), then use the wire feed welder to load the shit out of it. Its not always pretty but its stronger than new, very fast to do, and you never see it. If your set up to do this kind of work and you don't catch your truck or yourself on fire it takes about a half an hour.
Wrong!!! it will come out through the bottom... did it just now.. take the bottom dash panel off, disconnect the steering shaft, brake & clutch rod, brake light switch and clutch bypass switch and it will come right on out..
So you didnt actually have to drop the steering wheel, you just disconnected the steering shaft at the midpoint?
Glad to see you show the steps for removing this bracket. I was getting ready to replace the master cylinder and slave cylinder. I wasn't totally convinced that those parts were bad. Got looking at the action of the clutch pedal and noticed the cracked bracket. Mine looks identical to this one. Sure looks like that is the root of the problem. I was thinking through what it would take to get it out and took a look here and found this! Thanks. Very helpful.
How did you get the duct apart underneath the steering wheel?
It comes apart pretty easy, there may be a screw holding it on somewhere, probably use a screw driver to pry it apart being careful not to damage it.
Good video. I came across some discussion on the forums regarding these clutch pedal brackets cracking, and decided to check mine on my '94 22RE XtraCab 4x4 even though my clutch works fine. Figured that if I caught it in the process of cracking that maybe it'd be easier to save it rather than get caught off guard later and/or get stranded. Surprisingly, I can't see any cracking. Dunno if they changed the design or anything but from the 5 min look with my head on the floorboard, I see mine doesn't have that hole right next to the master cylinder hole -- the one that the crack goes to in the video. Still tempted to do something to prevent it from happening in the first place.
This just happened to break on me today in the drive-thru. Mine broke through the master cylinder hole. Had to spot weld Just to get it home. I'll either be replacing or repairing after removing it. Great video though! Just what I needed to see!
I've had this problem going on twice already, possibly even 3 times as of now. Only 4 months ago I had my clutch bracket welded again for my 1991 4runner 3.0 V6. I noticed 1 month ago that it started acting up again so I'm thinking of removing a clutch bracket from a newer generation 4runner to see if they are identical so I can use a good used quality bracket. I'm also considering cutting off the clutch part of the bracket and creating a custom piece myself. Or the second option would be to buy the clutch rod about 3/4" to 1" longer than normal so that the clutch pedal presses the longer rod all the way into the clutch master cylinder so that the clutch achieves full disengagement. Right now I'm not sure if I got a new crack on the bracket or if the bracket got warped for welding it once too many times; but I do hear like some crackling like if the clutch wire is the one that is rusty on the inside & is about to crack. I had that experience over 15 years ago on some NIssan Sentra. I would hate to pay $200 for a new bracket from Yotashop or somewhere else. But then again, it should last another 20 years.
I may be experiencing this issue right now. Just started happening so I changed the clutch master and slave but it still does it. Intermittently. Coming to a stop, I put it in neutral but when I stop the truck, it bangs like it's still in gear for a second and pops out.
How much would you charge to do a job like this?
I need take care my too. Thanks for adding this video us people apréciate it.
That wasn't a crack , the rust has taken its toll on the inside of your vehicle.
You no doubt live up North where the salty roads are.
Id bet the underside of the vehicle is worse the the pedal bracket.
Thanks for the great video. I just bought a 94 and the clutch has been replaced twice in 147k. The clutch still doesn't feel right and is barely disengaging at the bottom of the pedal stroke. I'm certainly going to check the bracket as a possible problem.
Thanks for this...I just ran into the same exact problem on my Aunties truck...I did the exact same thing, changed master and slave cylinders and still not disengaging properly. While trying to adjust the rod I finally looked past it and found the crack on the bracket. I was actually looking around to see if welding is a possibility. 😁
94 4x4 same problem. Your video made it super easy, just need to get it welded and put back in before the Colorado snow hits.
Thanks Matt!
1989 Hilux, same problem--same spot to be exact. Taking it back to my mechanic.
Thanks So Much! Same thing happened to me, but the clutch pedal wouldn't release and come back up. hopefully this is it
Thanks for the video!
I have a 92 Toyota pickup, so I will be watching for this problem.
How did it turn out once you got everything welded back together?
dcabinet ,works perfect!
Have the same problem in almost the exact same spot.. thanks for the video
Hey Matt, you did a great job, I cannot tell you how many times I view a video that I need to understand and the presenter either is not clear in describing or has too thick an accent or has the camera swaying like he is on a ship in a storm. I do notice that the truck looks like it was in a war and I chuckled when I saw some parts of it and I tip my hat off to you for identifying and resurrecting that old 1990 Toyota Truck. I have a 1998 Corolla with manual transmission and will keep your video in mind should I have that problem. My Corolla has 292,000 miles on it and I still love it. Good presentation.Vinnie in Cincinnati
You should check out my videos on the 97 Corolla. Motor mounts, door latch and fuel mod. Love the 97 Corolla!
Great video.
What about the hood release cable?
Nathan-I-EL Messario it was beer an issue