Cyclone Cyd Just managed to sort it out, did struggle still even with help of a mate and both sides jacked up but had to use spring compressors instead but least it's done and I'm happy, thanks
Hi, im trying to replace the rear pads and rotors on my vauxhall vectra tdi 2004 however even with the caliper piston rewind tool I can not get the piston to retract, the nipple is open but it wont budge, which way should the caliper be twisting on the passenger side? Thanks in advance
ok thank you for the reply, so if I cant get it moving is it because I cant get enough leverage or has it seized? it looks to be in pretty good shape with the dust boot and everything
Yeah, try getting more leverage using a longer spanner or something. It might help to take the caliper off and hold it in a vice or workmate. Just a matter of bleeding it when you put it back then. Most calipers will be right on their max travel if pads worn to metal but it rarely knackers the caliper.
It's best to put suspension at ride height before tightening the shock absorber bolt, otherwise the bottom bushing will be preloaded when you put the car down. Probably makes little difference though
Hi, thanks for the video. What gloves were you wearing? They seem more convenient than rubber disposable ones & I’ve seen a few people wearing them. Cheers!
And the mechanic at the end of our road said it was 4 hours labour I laughed at him and said I will do it myself in 25 minutes I'll be back in 40 minutes to retake my MOT
@@famousass545 you might find you need shocks. lower springs will have a higher spring rate. If you're only lowering a small amount (say 20-30mm) the standard shocks may well be okay unless they are already well worn. Any more than that and you're likely to need "uprated" shocks with a shorter stroke. I've got Monroe Reflex on my Saab. OESpectrum have replaced them and I'm very pleased. If money is no object, Bilstein B6. Your spring supplier should be able to make a recommendation.
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![How to change front springs / front coil springs on VW POLO 4 (9N) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/n.gif)
You make it look so easy, when I put the bar in to push the axle down, the bar touches my bumper lol
Ha ha, thanks. I try. Push your bar further through the gap and out the other side, like you see at 2:35 if you pause and look.
Cyclone Cyd Thanks will try this or may jack car up higher
OR: with the handbrake ON, get an assistant to use their foot on top of the brake drum to push it down.
Cyclone Cyd Just managed to sort it out, did struggle still even with help of a mate and both sides jacked up but had to use spring compressors instead but least it's done and I'm happy, thanks
Quality video as usual! I always drop a like, I have changed your guides to change so many things with ease.
Awesome
Much easier than I thought... You've saved me a garage bill!
That's the plan! Welcome aboard
What about the other parts of the suspension (no clue sorry) should I change them as well?
If it ain't broke, don't fix it 👍
Well made video helped me a great deal. Thank you.
Hi Mark, thank you. Don't forget to like and share and consider subscribing.
Hi, im trying to replace the rear pads and rotors on my vauxhall vectra tdi 2004 however even with the caliper piston rewind tool I can not get the piston to retract, the nipple is open but it wont budge, which way should the caliper be twisting on the passenger side? Thanks in advance
Clockwise
th-cam.com/video/I2bjrobr1T4/w-d-xo.html
ok thank you for the reply, so if I cant get it moving is it because I cant get enough leverage or has it seized? it looks to be in pretty good shape with the dust boot and everything
also is it possible it overextended because the pad was almost down to the backing plate due to uneven wear
Yeah, try getting more leverage using a longer spanner or something. It might help to take the caliper off and hold it in a vice or workmate. Just a matter of bleeding it when you put it back then.
Most calipers will be right on their max travel if pads worn to metal but it rarely knackers the caliper.
It's best to put suspension at ride height before tightening the shock absorber bolt, otherwise the bottom bushing will be preloaded when you put the car down.
Probably makes little difference though
YES> Good point.
Hi, thanks for the video. What gloves were you wearing? They seem more convenient than rubber disposable ones & I’ve seen a few people wearing them. Cheers!
Something similar to these: www.screwfix.com/p/site-dextrogrip-nitrile-foam-coated-gloves-red-black-large/7082j
Thanks for watching
And the mechanic at the end of our road said it was 4 hours labour I laughed at him and said I will do it myself in 25 minutes I'll be back in 40 minutes to retake my MOT
It was helpful
Thanks
Same method for lowering springs?
Oh yes, for sure. 👍
@@CycloneCyd would i need to get other parts or would just replacing the springs for lowering springs be ok, thanks for the help and great video
@@famousass545 you might find you need shocks. lower springs will have a higher spring rate. If you're only lowering a small amount (say 20-30mm) the standard shocks may well be okay unless they are already well worn. Any more than that and you're likely to need "uprated" shocks with a shorter stroke. I've got Monroe Reflex on my Saab. OESpectrum have replaced them and I'm very pleased. If money is no object, Bilstein B6. Your spring supplier should be able to make a recommendation.
As a 9n owner, this is what I think of doing work on it:
th-cam.com/video/E01BBjxgY84/w-d-xo.htmlm35s
Yes, sorry for a link, but im too lazy to type.
Paint the drums while you’re at it that’s what I did on mine
👍