Hi Guys if thats only a box section why don't you just drill the hole in the front face and not underneath it would be easier to weld up later or put a plate on Regards from Liverpool
A lot of purists would crap on your extensive use of laminated frames, but I recently spoke with a local shipwright whos restored numerous derelict vessels, and he wholeheartedly endorsed the practice. Not only is it stronger than solid timbers, but the epoxy adds rot resistance, and you dont have to be as particular about selecting perfect oak lumber in a day in age when it's becoming harder to find and more expensive than its ever been. It also often doesnt require steam bending.
I totally agree, after all ,sailing mast are now being glued together by using multiple pieces of wood and creating a super strong mast..Leo did it so be it…
@@Dave5843-d9m Tally Ho was built in the early 20th century when it was still common practice to build boats with multi part sawn timber frames. Leo opted to also use that construction technique on his rebuild instead of using steam bent or laminated frames which is why he had to find and restore an old beveling shipwright bandsaw.
handyman, wood worker and small craft sailboats, laminated wood is good. marine grade plywood is already laminated for you, but with glue that does not react to water (both water and seawater). West brand epoxy we used those... We do swear those are !@#$ Best stuff and dispensing pump accessories are accurate.
I have sent you a little donation for no other reason that I respect how hard you are working and what lovely people you are. I really admire your determination and the attention to detail, thank you so much for all the entertainment you give me. I’m in the final chapter of my life at 80 years old, and life isn’t very comfortable on occasions but watching you two is the best medicine that I get. Cheers, Peter.
As the saying goes you two, they don't make em like that anymore, and that's the boat and you two grafters who deserve all the rewards you can get, plus more for all the work and hours you have put in.
Omgoodness, my darlings, if I was still living in the UK I'd be there to help you! I can't understand why floods of helpers aren't there! All love and best wishes, Claire, Berlin 😘 ❤️ ♥️
Another great solution to potentially massive problem, your inventiveness knows no boundaries. The only suggestion for the exhaust fixings would be to replace the standard round washers with 50mm square repair plate/washers. It'll help spread the load inside the boat and in the exhaust. But again, you guys are awesome and i love watching the progress
Well done on the drill jig. But even better for me was the very last fade out with the bow-on shot. It answers the design of the davit towers for the build of my R/C model Sarinda
A bit of mud larking going on around Sarinda this week.It must be hugely encouraging to see the condition of the exhaust, also, the steel is much thicker than I anticipated. Good to see you's both looking better.
Simon just an idea . To fix the exhaust hole fit a metal bar across the plate you have taken out thread a bolt through it ,weld the bolt to the bar . Then place inside the exhaust , attach plate to threaded bolt the tighten up with nut and washer from below . Exactly the same as you do with a hole in plasterboard . After the plate is in place seal the edges with liquid steel glue as that will seal it totally
Just had a further thought to stop the original plate pulling through you would need to weld steel washers to the outer edge of the steel plate .not pretty but as out of sight no problem
I hope you have taken out a Patent on the Mud 3000 otherwise everyone will be making one for just the same jobs. After all we all have to get in the mud under the exhaust of an old boat and drill a dirty great hole into it in the rain waiting for the tide to come in! Fantastic stuff guys! I look forward to each and every episode!
Due to the weight of that exterior exhaust, and the old fastenings being a bit beefier. I would suggest putting another filler block over that web frame, and then add a steel plate that covers the doubler and the upper and lower frames, making it a lot stronger. I live in the ... "lets over-do it once so I never have to do it again" camp. Love the videos, Chin up you two. Carry on.
I have been watching for the better part of 2 years and love your enthusiasm and work ethic. I've lived in Maine all my life and worked for Hinkley for 35 years and I've never built a boat or seen one restored while in the water. In Maine we pull them into a dry dock.
If you are going to need to drill additional holes in the exhaust, would it not be easier to cut a hole in the top of the exhaust? That way far easier to weld a plug back in and grind flat, rather than trying to weld upside down in the mud. Second the new plug will not be sitting in the bottom of the exhaust covered in salty water. Just a thought. Great work :)
To be honest, I would have gone through the top of the exhaust and made some neat bolt on covers to seal the holes. You could weld but bolt on covers give easier access in future.
@@erlixerlix7573 that is my preferred technique. drill with longest drill bit go through all way. other side enlarge for bolt head; 2 cm?. if you needed "more longer bolt". weld nut on threaded rod make head. Use socket head with long extension rod to hold head in place...
That drill gizmo is the Goats Toe. Patent it quick. Those hole saws can be a pan in the butt even on a drill press where you can see what you are doing. You can put a spring over the pilot drill to help eject the piece you cut out, or a piece of dense foam some times works. We used to use Rocol spray cutting compound on plate steel back in my younger days. About 5 years ago now.😄 Cools the drill and helps reduce the wear more than spray oil.
The MudDrill 3000(TM) is absolutely brilliant!! I fully expected those exhaust 'boxes' were just that, box-like pieces that surrounded the round exhaust pipes outside the boat. I guess going to those square-ish exhaust pipes makes more sense, as it saves weight.
Hi simon and gemma on your chopsaw there are small vent with oak sawdust being gine it builds up in the vents so i used to clean the vents out every time i saw the chopsaw vents getting dust in them every few weeks when i used to work with oak at my job
For cleaning out the exhaust, if you have a pressure washer, you can get reverse nozzles that shoot high pressure water backwards, typically used for cleaning drains.
Simon I got an idea how you can repair the hole in the exhaust,using the piece you cut out,take a bolt thread it though the hole you drill into the plate,then take a strong piece of flat piece of metal,feed it up into the hole and tighten down though the plate,and tighten with a bolt nut and washer,
The thickness of the metal of the exhaust tunnels looks to be about 5mm. Why don't you try drilling and tapping from inside the hull. Using mastic and locking bolts to secure this trunking? You could then use unlimited numers of bolts at spacings to suit
Have you thought of removing the exhausts? They impede your access to a lot of the hull and the contact between steel and hull planking could result in rot that you can't see?
you could do with some boards like those small bridges you made to put on the mud when you work on it, spread the point loading. you could bung some floats on them, lash to the boat some you dont have to lift them everytime too
Hi you two and what a surprise you found when looking inside the exhaust can, to be honest I was hoping it would be terrible and you had to remove them. I do think they spoil the lines of the boat, originally the exhaust would just come out of the side or be piped to the stern though the bilge area. The marine exhaust manifold would mix cooling water with the exhaust gas and the piping could be flexible and was never any problem on my 1930s boat. Maybe something you will do in the future when you have more time and money. Thanks for posting and I'm happy the metal box is A OK for you to continue.
If you have a lot of holes in metal to make during the work, get a tin of "Rocol Cutting Grease" it smells strong, but it is amazing how the drills/cutters just rip through the metal!!
I love your channel and have been watching from the start. Have you ever thought about not replacing the rear lounge? Have an open deck with hatches to cabins for light. Cheaper and easier to replace the deck. Galley in the bow? Keep up the great work.
Hi simon and gemma i noticed that you use a medium hammer to knock the wood into place behined the stringers why not use a lump hammer and bit of wood on the ends it should be bit heavier so the wood wood would go into place a little quicker
Wow. I did not expect the exhaust to be in that condition. Like the hull boards - amazing. I guess the paint on the outside of the exhaust and diesel oil from exhaust fumes on the inside have maintained it, despite the salt water. Your plan to add holes every few feet that will allow you to clean the exhaust out with a rodding kit is an excellent idea.
I have just finished my plumbing job for the day at my sons now I am back to my electronics repairs. I just hope changing toilets I have got my hands clean! LOL
Great job Team as always😅. Your ingenuity knows no bounds 3000 is ingenuity at it,s best great idea 😂. Maybe use chimney sweep brush as ya can just keep adding poles as ya need and super flexible. The is serious steel. 😮 maybe add a rubbing strip along the exhaust entire length at some point. Don,t forget to cover hole up as exposed to the air like that will increase corrosion. Keep at it now....😅😊😊😊😊😊
I would nock the exhaust off and route then up out the top like stacks use the boxed stations on the fly deck use the holes in the side as water exit from the engines
My thought on the exhaust would be to re-design the engine exhaust to go straight up as a smoke stack. . . . . just eliminate those side exhaust all together . . . . vintage boats like these need to be preserved indeed but they also need to be practical so they can last . . . for example, 2 famous WW2 mine sweeper that were re-purposed like Jacques Cousteau's "Calypso" or John Wayne's yacht the "Wild Goose" . . . . . the Wild Goose is doing very well these day although the Calypso has see it better days. . . . . . I think you have a treasure of history . . . Good Luke !!
Those exhausts aren't original anyway. As far as I can see from pictures the HDML exhausts originally just discharged through the side of the hull. However, as Harbour Defence Motor Launches they weren't designed for open sea work, so these side boxes are presumably intended to minimise the risk of the engine being swamped.
I'd have cut a good sized square in the side of the exhaust and weld it back in later. Much easier than cutting a hole below. It only takes time to do a good weld you can't see.
I would be leaving all those jobs where the mud is an issue till summer time, there no shortage of other jobs to do. Think about going into that exhaust from the outside, two holes just big enough to get a socket in with the nut. Weld two little patch in afterwards. That exhaust is so big the heat will dissipate without burning the hull esp if you do a little at a time and spray water to cool the steel. Very impressed with the progress and workmanship, absolutely top notch, I look forward to Saturday morning here in Aust just to watch you guys. Take care.
Yes in retrospect there would be no escaping the mud. Another reason to cut into that exhaust horizontally and mig weld in two small patches afterwards, saves all that upside down work making good.@@lauralake7430
Another look in late 2024. I really font like the way those new frames had to be hammered down. They really should have been laminated like the web frame. Probably use a stepped rather than sloped scarf joint. Why not use the polyurethane mastic? It’s powerful stuff.
Nice job. Drillin the exhaust went easier than I expected. I remember 'Robbo painted it, not sure when, but it still looked pretty good Nice goin m8s, doin well. Stay vertical Eh!
Great job guys. I would have thought that drilling a hole in the side or top of the exhaust would have been better and the repair would be much easier to do. Its going to be a nightmare to weld up those holes. ATB. regards
Hi Simon and Gemma, more nice work as usual.I can see the exhaust diameter is quite large, so I'm not sure this would be viable, but , would it be possible to totally remove the steel exhaust and perhaps running the exhaust through the interior of the boat with rubber exhaust hose and out through the transom.
When I saw the inside of the exhaust ducting I was worried about the flaking and thickness of the steel. That was until you showed the cutout at the end. You must have at least an 1/8th” of good steel there which shows how well she was originally laid up. Get a chimney sweep brush, clean the crap out and Sarinda’s exhaust fumes should keep the verdigris at bay. You’re getting there, stick to it and I can’t wait to see her slip her lines.❤️
You could have with your metal lathe and an old microwave transformer made a mag drill. But then the world would be a sadder place without the mad cap, highly effective, quicker and cheaper to make Mud Drill 3000. That was by far the best bit of this episode. TY.
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Hi Guys if thats only a box section why don't you just drill the hole in the front face and not underneath it would be easier to weld up later or put a plate on Regards from Liverpool
A lot of purists would crap on your extensive use of laminated frames, but I recently spoke with a local shipwright whos restored numerous derelict vessels, and he wholeheartedly endorsed the practice. Not only is it stronger than solid timbers, but the epoxy adds rot resistance, and you dont have to be as particular about selecting perfect oak lumber in a day in age when it's becoming harder to find and more expensive than its ever been. It also often doesnt require steam bending.
I totally agree, after all ,sailing mast are now being glued together by using multiple pieces of wood and creating a super strong mast..Leo did it so be it…
Leo’s frames were not exactly laminated but they were made in sections.
Replacing the ribs with laminated frames is best practice for strength and longevity, good point.
@@Dave5843-d9m Tally Ho was built in the early 20th century when it was still common practice to build boats with multi part sawn timber frames. Leo opted to also use that construction technique on his rebuild instead of using steam bent or laminated frames which is why he had to find and restore an old beveling shipwright bandsaw.
handyman, wood worker and small craft sailboats, laminated wood is good. marine grade plywood is already laminated for you, but with glue that does not react to water (both water and seawater). West brand epoxy we used those... We do swear those are !@#$ Best stuff and dispensing pump accessories are accurate.
The Mud 3000 is brilliant. You two should be very proud of yourselves. Your ingenuity is amazing.
Very, but why not just drill from the side or top. Once done you could put an access port there. And it would be much easier to seal. Just my opinion.
Why does she have those huge exhaust boxes? What value do they add that can’t be done in less clumsy ways?
I have sent you a little donation for no other reason that I respect how hard you are working and what lovely people you are. I really admire your determination and the attention to detail, thank you so much for all the entertainment you give me.
I’m in the final chapter of my life at 80 years old, and life isn’t very comfortable on occasions but watching you two is the best medicine that I get. Cheers, Peter.
As the saying goes you two, they don't make em like that anymore, and that's the boat and you two grafters who deserve all the rewards you can get, plus more for all the work and hours you have put in.
Can't believe how thick that steel is on the exhaust. They must weigh a ton!
Awesome progress as always. Sarinda is lucky to have you two.
Can you imagine the total weight of it! Definitely not something the 2 of us could take off and carry were we are!
How much value do those huge boxes add? Would a pair of lorry silencers do the same job?
Heath Robinson would be proud of your ingenuity 🎉
Love the mud drill, a proper Wallace and Gromit contraption, and it works really well.
What a team you two are!
Love your vids.
🥰
I love the absolute ingenuity of Simon. Don’t have a part or tool? Simon makes one.
If a man can make it, a man can mend it :Simon. That should beca quote on one of your tshirts!
Omgoodness, my darlings, if I was still living in the UK I'd be there to help you!
I can't understand why floods of helpers aren't there!
All love and best wishes, Claire, Berlin 😘 ❤️ ♥️
Another great solution to potentially massive problem, your inventiveness knows no boundaries.
The only suggestion for the exhaust fixings would be to replace the standard round washers with 50mm square repair plate/washers. It'll help spread the load inside the boat and in the exhaust.
But again, you guys are awesome and i love watching the progress
2:16 This is very satisfying to watch … well done folks. Looking great ❤
Another bespoke Robins tool innovation! Congrats on being so close to finishing the frames & web frames in the engine area.🥳
Thank you very much!
Well done on the drill jig. But even better for me was the very last fade out with the bow-on shot. It answers the design of the davit towers for the build of my R/C model Sarinda
Hope we can see it when it is done.
Scale RC model of this boat?! Sign me up, I'm sold. Can't wait to see that!
A bit of mud larking going on around Sarinda this week.It must be hugely encouraging to see the condition of the exhaust, also, the steel is much thicker than I anticipated. Good to see you's both looking better.
Simon Robins the premium tool inventor ! Great work again 👍
Teamwork makes the DREAM work!
entry to the exhaust-needs must bloody ingenious Simon well done
our little gem is always smiling, well done you two. always good to watch your programs.
Cheers Brian, hope you are well!
Simon just an idea . To fix the exhaust hole fit a metal bar across the plate you have taken out thread a bolt through it ,weld the bolt to the bar . Then place inside the exhaust , attach plate to threaded bolt the tighten up with nut and washer from below . Exactly the same as you do with a hole in plasterboard . After the plate is in place seal the edges with liquid steel glue as that will seal it totally
Just had a further thought to stop the original plate pulling through you would need to weld steel washers to the outer edge of the steel plate .not pretty but as out of sight no problem
I hope you have taken out a Patent on the Mud 3000 otherwise everyone will be making one for just the same jobs. After all we all have to get in the mud under the exhaust of an old boat and drill a dirty great hole into it in the rain waiting for the tide to come in! Fantastic stuff guys! I look forward to each and every episode!
Due to the weight of that exterior exhaust, and the old fastenings being a bit beefier. I would suggest putting another filler block over that web frame, and then add a steel plate that covers the doubler and the upper and lower frames, making it a lot stronger. I live in the ... "lets over-do it once so I never have to do it again" camp. Love the videos, Chin up you two. Carry on.
I have been watching for the better part of 2 years and love your enthusiasm and work ethic. I've lived in Maine all my life and worked for Hinkley for 35 years and I've never built a boat or seen one restored while in the water. In Maine we pull them into a dry dock.
If you are going to need to drill additional holes in the exhaust, would it not be easier to cut a hole in the top of the exhaust? That way far easier to weld a plug back in and grind flat, rather than trying to weld upside down in the mud. Second the new plug will not be sitting in the bottom of the exhaust covered in salty water. Just a thought. Great work :)
To be honest, I would have gone through the top of the exhaust and made some neat bolt on covers to seal the holes. You could weld but bolt on covers give easier access in future.
Did you not watch the video. They explained what they plan to do and it isn't welding
I would have gone through the side and then weld the drilled out plate back in place.
@@erlixerlix7573 that is my preferred technique. drill with longest drill bit go through all way. other side enlarge for bolt head; 2 cm?. if you needed "more longer bolt". weld nut on threaded rod make head. Use socket head with long extension rod to hold head in place...
So I'm going to show you the The white people to look@@erlixerlix7573
I think Simon drilling the holes in the exhaust is a secret ploy to fit dump valves lol. You can never really shake off the modifying things bug.
That drill gizmo is the Goats Toe. Patent it quick. Those hole saws can be a pan in the butt even on a drill press where you can see what you are doing. You can put a spring over the pilot drill to help eject the piece you cut out, or a piece of dense foam some times works. We used to use Rocol spray cutting compound on plate steel back in my younger days. About 5 years ago now.😄 Cools the drill and helps reduce the wear more than spray oil.
A dynamic duo working on one nail at a time. What a task and nothing but admiration for you both - again!!
Consider placing a flushing nozzle to clean the exhaust pipe occasionally.
The MudDrill 3000(TM) is absolutely brilliant!! I fully expected those exhaust 'boxes' were just that, box-like pieces that surrounded the round exhaust pipes outside the boat. I guess going to those square-ish exhaust pipes makes more sense, as it saves weight.
That boiler in the background has a flue liner on it they r not gas tight ..it needs a proper double skin flue on it..I'm a plumber
Hi simon and gemma on your chopsaw there are small vent with oak sawdust being gine it builds up in the vents so i used to clean the vents out every time i saw the chopsaw vents getting dust in them every few weeks when i used to work with oak at my job
You two work so well together ❤️🙏
Thank you for being so positive and obviously enjoying the work. It makes my coffee tastes so much better. Thank you.
For cleaning out the exhaust, if you have a pressure washer, you can get reverse nozzles that shoot high pressure water backwards, typically used for cleaning drains.
24:50 So good!!! I love it! You guys are so good at adapting and overcoming! Kudos!
Excellent invention..love your channel..
You guys are so amazing slugging through mud to build a boat vs being in a dry doc with a dry warm environment!!!! Super grit!!!!!
Simon I got an idea how you can repair the hole in the exhaust,using the piece you cut out,take a bolt thread it though the hole you drill into the plate,then take a strong piece of flat piece of metal,feed it up into the hole and tighten down though the plate,and tighten with a bolt nut and washer,
Thank you, Jemma and Simon, for another great, interesting video.
You two continue to amaze with your dedication to this hugely complex project, added to which is the invention of the Mud 3000, ingenious!!!!!!!
The thickness of the metal of the exhaust tunnels looks to be about 5mm. Why don't you try drilling and tapping from inside the hull. Using mastic and locking bolts to secure this trunking? You could then use unlimited numers of bolts at spacings to suit
Facinating outcome for the exhaust on an 80 year old boat. Good job Guys.
Have you thought of removing the exhausts? They impede your access to a lot of the hull and the contact between steel and hull planking could result in rot that you can't see?
you could do with some boards like those small bridges you made to put on the mud when you work on it, spread the point loading. you could bung some floats on them, lash to the boat some you dont have to lift them everytime too
Hi you two and what a surprise you found when looking inside the exhaust can, to be honest I was hoping it would be terrible and you had to remove them. I do think they spoil the lines of the boat, originally the exhaust would just come out of the side or be piped to the stern though the bilge area. The marine exhaust manifold would mix cooling water with the exhaust gas and the piping could be flexible and was never any problem on my 1930s boat. Maybe something you will do in the future when you have more time and money. Thanks for posting and I'm happy the metal box is A OK for you to continue.
If you have a lot of holes in metal to make during the work, get a tin of "Rocol Cutting Grease" it smells strong, but it is amazing how the drills/cutters just rip through the metal!!
Great invention Simon worked really well 👍👌
Thanks 👍
No worries your doing a fantastic job on that vessel 👍👌
When living in the northern part of europe, that the sun shines, is all that matters :D (greetings from a neighborh to the east)
Great work! You should get a small brush and some real cutting fluid for cutting holes in the exhaust.
another brilliant job ticked off the list 10/10.
I love your channel and have been watching from the start. Have you ever thought about not replacing the rear lounge? Have an open deck with hatches to cabins for light. Cheaper and easier to replace the deck. Galley in the bow? Keep up the great work.
Hi simon and gemma i noticed that you use a medium hammer to knock the wood into place behined the stringers why not use a lump hammer and bit of wood on the ends it should be bit heavier so the wood wood would go into place a little quicker
Love the drilling jig! Great job you two.
Ingenious, great work you two , pleased it turned out out so well👍Graham
As always inspiring done with good humor and fun attitude! Always gives me a good perspective on my little diy struggles❤
You awesome folks.
Fantastic alternative drill
Professional quality nail-through-hull video editing 🙂
Thank you! 😊
The left side of the ship / boat when facing the bow is called port side and the right side is called starboard side
It is so cool that you can do this work without a hauling out. Lol!
Wow. I did not expect the exhaust to be in that condition. Like the hull boards - amazing. I guess the paint on the outside of the exhaust and diesel oil from exhaust fumes on the inside have maintained it, despite the salt water. Your plan to add holes every few feet that will allow you to clean the exhaust out with a rodding kit is an excellent idea.
ingenious device - in wood too. I would not have thought of that!
Very good progress this week. 👍
I have just finished my plumbing job for the day at my sons now I am back to my electronics repairs. I just hope changing toilets I have got my hands clean! LOL
Ingenious. You two are something else. Much respect.
Brilliant idea that mud 3ooo You should figure out a way to clean out that exhaust though...I would.
we will, but one job at a time!
The Exhaust Steel is in amazing Condition, should last another 80yrs.....
Thats my next half hour sorted thanks guys
Thanks
Very inventive!
Perfect Simon!
Great job Team as always😅. Your ingenuity knows no bounds 3000 is ingenuity at it,s best great idea 😂. Maybe use chimney sweep brush as ya can just keep adding poles as ya need and super flexible. The is serious steel. 😮 maybe add a rubbing strip along the exhaust entire length at some point. Don,t forget to cover hole up as exposed to the air like that will increase corrosion. Keep at it now....😅😊😊😊😊😊
love from across the pond!!! you guys are the best!!!!
Thanks!
Thank you Tony x
I would nock the exhaust off and route then up out the top like stacks use the boxed stations on the fly deck use the holes in the side as water exit from the engines
My thought on the exhaust would be to re-design the engine exhaust to go straight up as a smoke stack. . . . . just eliminate those side exhaust all together . . . . vintage boats like these need to be preserved indeed but they also need to be practical so they can last . . . for example, 2 famous WW2 mine sweeper that were re-purposed like Jacques Cousteau's "Calypso" or John Wayne's yacht the "Wild Goose" . . . . . the Wild Goose is doing very well these day although the Calypso has see it better days. . . . . . I think you have a treasure of history . . . Good Luke !!
I was thinking that as well. Those side boxes have all sorts of unnecessary issues.
Those exhausts aren't original anyway. As far as I can see from pictures the HDML exhausts originally just discharged through the side of the hull. However, as Harbour Defence Motor Launches they weren't designed for open sea work, so these side boxes are presumably intended to minimise the risk of the engine being swamped.
I'd have cut a good sized square in the side of the exhaust and weld it back in later. Much easier than cutting a hole below.
It only takes time to do a good weld you can't see.
I would be leaving all those jobs where the mud is an issue till summer time, there no shortage of other jobs to do. Think about going into that exhaust from the outside, two holes just big enough to get a socket in with the nut. Weld two little patch in afterwards. That exhaust is so big the heat will dissipate without burning the hull esp if you do a little at a time and spray water to cool the steel. Very impressed with the progress and workmanship, absolutely top notch, I look forward to Saturday morning here in Aust just to watch you guys. Take care.
I think the tide still rolls in and out in the summer and its still muddy. Im not from there, but British summer looks kinda cold to me.
Yes in retrospect there would be no escaping the mud. Another reason to cut into that exhaust horizontally and mig weld in two small patches afterwards, saves all that upside down work making good.@@lauralake7430
noticed the no trespassing sign, should add " and you will appear on youtube" or words to that effect lol. Frank from downunder
Another look in late 2024. I really font like the way those new frames had to be hammered down. They really should have been laminated like the web frame. Probably use a stepped rather than sloped scarf joint.
Why not use the polyurethane mastic? It’s powerful stuff.
Great work, fun and video from both of you as always 👌
Nice job. Drillin the exhaust went easier than I expected. I remember 'Robbo painted it, not sure when, but it still looked pretty good Nice goin m8s, doin well. Stay vertical Eh!
It’s not stupid if it works. Nice job with the drill jig
Love seeing the weekly update! Simon, have you given a go at sharpening those drill bits?
You guys have definitely improved your process and speed. VERY impressive.
Hi Simon, I would ditch the side exhaust and put in verticle stainless stacks, if you can fit them in as I dont know what above
Love you new drill attatchment that was minted.
Heh heh guys , cool episode , liked it , as for the exaust hmmmm , pretty sketch 🙂
The Mud Drill 3000 ......... bloody brilliant!
That drill machine thingy was the best ever
You two do some awesome work👌 Very interesting to see the process of the restoration, i have been binse watching the videos for weeks.
Great job guys. I would have thought that drilling a hole in the side or top of the exhaust would have been better and the repair would be much easier to do. Its going to be a nightmare to weld up those holes. ATB. regards
33:00
Get a chimney sweep! It's looking great, y'all!
As for as I'm concerned, you guys are on Point 😊!
thank you!
I hope you are going to install the big square washers on the new bolts. cp old ones
Hi Simon and Gemma, more nice work as usual.I can see the exhaust diameter is quite large, so I'm not sure this would be viable, but , would it be possible to totally remove the steel exhaust and perhaps running the exhaust through the interior of the boat with rubber exhaust hose and out through the transom.
I have to admit.....that "mud drill" was INGENIOUS!! Not much fun, though...except to watch! 🙂
its a miracle the thickness of the metal, good for you
When I saw the inside of the exhaust ducting I was worried about the flaking and thickness of the steel. That was until you showed the cutout at the end. You must have at least an 1/8th” of good steel there which shows how well she was originally laid up. Get a chimney sweep brush, clean the crap out and Sarinda’s exhaust fumes should keep the verdigris at bay. You’re getting there, stick to it and I can’t wait to see her slip her lines.❤️
You could have with your metal lathe and an old microwave transformer made a mag drill.
But then the world would be a sadder place without the mad cap, highly effective, quicker and cheaper to make Mud Drill 3000.
That was by far the best bit of this episode. TY.