You're welcome! Yes, I work on Tanfos all the time too - when it comes to that area, they are pretty much the same as CZs. Only real difference in the DA operation between the 2 is really on the trigger bar spring and main spring systems - those are different between Tanfos and CZs.
Excellent video! I have to search and see what videos you have on the sear cage mods and assembly. I did deburting and polishing work on my Magnum Research Baby Eagle III, which worked great! What a pain in the ass getting the sear assembly back together! Glad I stumbled on your channel
thanks for the video, very helpful! I hope you'll go on with the series "how stuff works" :) it would be very good to have similar videos also for the sear and its modifications (as far as I got, in order to install some customized disconnector, slight changes on sear are needed)
Thank you for the video covering almost all wonders of CZ SH2 disconnector but... you missed one point of it which may have sometimes its role (bad one in my case) - the hooks' bottom end (not top one gliding under the sear cage). It looks that end is sometimes riding harder on dedicated "ramp" on gun frame which adds its own upward pressure to the disconnector and the hook arm height and its shape of its tip together add another timed force/move onto DA trigger pull cycle. On mine SH2 Orange, after installation of Ultimate 0.0 disconnector I have got strange uneven and increased DA pull weight which starts with heavier 30% of DA travel, then goes to smooth light part of DA pull travel and ends again with ~20% of DA travel distance heavier weight (+ those heavier parts feel gritty too, much worse than OEM Orange 0.2 disco). Apart from this all functions well, fast or slow, SA/DA/reset. I do not have enough experience but it might be slightly higher hook arm which now is riding on the frame ramp pushing harder up towards bottom of the sear cage. I see more marks on this frame "ramp" under the disconnector, beside magazine funnel. Have you ever faced such a anomaly during disconnector fitting?
Yes, I've seen this before. Not very often in my experience though. If your frame has marks on that area, then it's worth to take a look and perhaps shorten the disco hook a bit to smooth it out. Before doing so, I would measure your after-market disco and make sure it is indeed a bit longer on the hook area than the one you had before.
Great content! I just replaced SP-01 disconnector with Shadow 2 OEM disconnector the other day. It was a lot of work to fit it, but it was super fun and educative. Background: my shadow 2 is fully cajunized, there are just some OEM parts sitting around.
That's great to hear! That's exactly the process I went through once as well. You have to do some fitting to make it work, but you can get some good results from it.
Great video, now I have a practical understanding of how everything works, when I installed the aftermarket parts I kind of flew by the seat of my pants, now I know what to expect.
Thank you! This is not my full time job, so I will be fine if others learn the tips and tricks here and I lose their business with that - I will be also happy if this encourage others to start their own business at some point... I would just be disappointed if anybody loses their business because of it (that isn't my intent at all :))
Yeah... I don't like the idea of using brass on a part that can wear out over time. And the disco is quite a critical part of the gun's operation in double action.
Thanks for your great work! Best resource I could find on youtube. I plan to follow your guide. Could you please mention what discs (and maybe dremel as well) to use for disconnector fitting ? Have no idea what would work well for this task and it feels like it can easily go wrong with the wrong tools... One recommendation I found in the only other video on this topic on youtube was from a former jeweler who used Zirconia Alumina Blue Discs to fit his disco for S2.
In terms of what you can use everything is game here - A dremel, a file etc. It's more about your experience and ability to do so without screwing up :). If you're not experienced on it, I would stay away from power tools such as a Dremel. Reason is that it's easier to make mistakes with them. I've used a Dremel to simply speed up the process in the beginning if I have a lot of material to remove... And then either a file or sand stones. Start with lower grits (200 - 400) and move up (600 - 800) as you get closer to reach the fit needed. The word of advice is "patience". Take your time: 1. Try 2. adjust/work 3. Repeat - until you get there. You win nothing on trying to do anything, when it comes to fitting/tuning, in a hurry.
Thanks a lot for your guidance! I will follow your exact instructions and will not use dremel this time. I will also probably get a caliper instead to make sure I can see the progress while working my way in. Please consider making a video for begginers some time in the future, since that would boost up that many people's confidence on getting their hands on it :)
Great content. I hope your channel is going to grow fast soon because your videos are really great. Could you explain the function of the sear and which surfaces contact each other? I dont understand where the sear is going after the hammer went forward and how it reengages with everything after the trigger resets. thanks for your great videos
Once the hammer falls the trigger bar slides underneath the sear, losing contact with it, which allows the sear to go back in its resting position. As the trigger returns, the slide keeps pushing the trigger bar down while the gun is out of battery - when the gun is back in battery and the trigger moves back forward, the trigger bar will eventually raise again and reengage the sear (that's the reset in single action).
Thanks for posting, im considering an aftermarket reach reduction kit and this really clears things up. What kind of aftermarket kit do you hsve in those guns
Good vid. One problem I've run into when fitting aftermarket interrupters in Tanfo's is that the gun will drop back into DA function during an SA trigger pull. What causes this? Greasing the contact surfaces usually eliminates it. But some guns operate 100% in dry fire with all the parts dry.
This happens when the timing in the interrupter is wrong... I don't know how by simply lubricating the parts you make it work. That I can't explain, but potentially with the interrupter slipping by being lubricated it changes the timing somehow and allow the gun to work again.. Not sure but it's only explanation I can offer.
@@czarmorer Thanks a lot for answering. I think I have it figured out. I had to take a very small amount off the underside edge of the interrupter wing.
@@czarmorer I have 3 Stock 2's, all fit with Bolos. The tightest of the 3 guns is the one that had the problem. The trigger bar can move slightly higher as it moves rearward from full-cock to fire in SA. So the bottom of the interrupter wing can get very close to hitting the bar as it moves back forward. Removing a very small amount of material from the bottom edge of the wing solved this for me. You can see the same thing when fitting SA with the Bolo. The interrupter sits lower and lower relative to the trigger bar as material is removed from the hook. This can be influenced some by grinding the arc forward instead of straight upward. Depending on the specific parts, gun and fitment in question, I guess the timing can sort itself out or not. The fit I'm taking about on the wing is a little less than you'd probably need if you got SA working but there wasn't enough clearance for DA to break properly. I expect hammer geometry is also a factor. All 3 of my guns have Unica hammers. I guess fouling can further influence the trigger bar's position. My problem started occurring at about 5k rounds. Cleaning and lubing the gun got rid of it until the fouling built up again.
Thank you for your presentation. Very useful informations.... I am struggeling with a problem that after I installed an eemantech disconnector I was able to trigger in single action (hammer pulled back by hand) and double action as long as I don't pull back the slide. If I do so, my trigger won't move.....it's almost like i put on safety, which I didn't. It just stays in a rear position and won't let me trigger or even push it back forward or anything. I have to take apart everything until I get the sear cage out. After I put it back together, the same game starts again. After I put the original disconnector back in, I didn't have that problem anymore...... Have you ever heard of that kind of problem? Maybe you read that and we might get in contact. Thx anyway.....
The ET disco is likely oversized so you have to fit it to make sure you can reset in Single Action again. You will need to remove material from the ET disco on the hook face - the area where it engages with the trigger bar when you manually pulling the hammer back. Try filing that area just a bit and see if the behavior changes - If by doing so you can start moving the trigger, even so slightly, then you will know that this is what you need to keep doing until the trigger can fully reset in SA again.
Great video! By the way, is it possible to tap a small set screw in the stock disconnector to adjust the pre travel on the SA? just thinking for other alternative instead of buying aftermarket disconnector. Thanks for the answer!
I thought of that once, but never tried it. The issue I anticipate with that is that the trigger bar must still slide through that disco's surface when hammer is cocked. So a set screw there could take all the smoothness away.
May i ask Another question if you don't mind😅, what's your idea/opinion about grinding off the half cock notch on the hammer? Mine is a duty firearm which i prefer to carry with no chamber load. I feel that during slow trigger pull, the sear is catching on the half cock notch a little bit. I read some forums regarding the same issue and some of them suggest to grind off the half cock notch. Thanks for the help!
@@johnrobertbala4291 I wouldn't do it. The half cock notch is a safety feature. By grinding it you will remove the ability of the hammer being stopped before hitting the firing pin in case it disengages from the sear by accident somehow.
Great video thanks! What hammer and recoil spring weights do you recommend for range or comp use? What basic polishing do recommend to smooth out slide operation only not trigger feel?
Springs are really a function of how you play with the gun, the loads you will be using and how much you want to trade off reliability by performance..
I can share what I see the most in CZs DA/SA for competition, but that's just as a reference for you and not something that will be necessarily ideal for you: Main springs will vary from 13lb (heaviest said) to 8.5lb (lightest) - And then you also have the fact that they are not identical between different vendors - Meaning a 13lb from CGW, and 13lb from CZC are not exact the same thing. For recoil, it will vary from 9lb (lightest) to 12lb (heaviest) - Here you really have to find out what works for your load. And also considering whether or not you have optics, so you also want to protect it a bit and not go too light regardless of your load.
Thank you. I’m planning on installing the Reach Reduction Kit on my Shadow 2 compact. However, I’ve read that the disconnector that comes with the kit needs to be fitted (filed down a little). Do you know if there’s a drop in disconnector that does not need to be fitted, that is compatible with the Reach Reduction Kit? Thank you.
Give GCW a call - they do have different discos - I believe one of their models is more of a drop in. The thing with the drop-in models is that you won't be able to have the biggest benefit out of it. In order to have the maximum benefit, they need to be fitted.
If I want to have DAO and the edge for SA is ground down, is there anything else to address? Will the hammer just slowly go down behind the slide on the next shot? Weight of the hammer/timing? The safety would no longer be usable. What would the quarter cock/'safety catch' break quickly? Is it safe to have the hammer come down completely all the time? I guess the TRS will wear quicker. EDIT: Can DAO be achieved by the Disco only?
Sorry, I don't think I quite understand what are you trying to achieve. You want to have Double Action Only pistol? Meaning, you want to disable the Single Action operation completely?
This is completely different platform, but does the 1911 require a disconnector when it is SAO, whereas the disconnector can be removed entirely in the CZ 75?
The trigger mechanism in 1911, as you pointed out, is quite different to the one in CZ75/shadow/shadow 2 and the terminology used is somewhat misleading and problematic. The term "disconnector/interrupter" for the part in CZ (and it's clones) is IMHO a misnomer. It would be more appropriate to call it "double-action sear / trigger pre-tensioner" (as it fulfills both roles) but it doesn't really "disconnect" anything in the trigger mechanism. If you remove the "disconnector" in a CZ, you lose double action mode and your pistol becomes SAO with a very long pre-travel. Basically, the trigger breaks in the same position as before, but when you release it, it returns to a position it normally would in DA. Then, when you pull it again, you have the same travel you would have in DA before, but with a very light pull (since you only need to overcome the force of trigger return spring) up to the point where you hit the SA sear. This pre-travel can be eliminated by installing a SA-only trigger shoe. In a 1911 the part called "the disconnector" works quite differently. When the gun is in battery, the disconnector sits between the trigger bar and the sear and acts as an "interface". As you pull the trigger, the trigger bar moves backwards (the pre-travel) until it hits the disconnector, which in turn, pushes on the sear. When the sear gets pushed far enough, it disengages from the hammer notch, the hammer falls and the gun fires. As the slide moves backwards, the disconnector gets pushed down and it falls underneath the trigger bar thus DISCONNECTING the trigger bar from the sear. The sear is then pushed by the sear spring back to its resting position and, as the slide moves forward, the hammer notch re-engages with the sear. The disconnector remains situated underneath the trigger bar until the trigger is released far enough to allow the disconnector to travel back upwards and between the trigger bar and the sear thus resetting the whole mechanism. Removing the disconnector in a 1911/2011 gun wil completely disable the trigger mechanism, making the gun impossible to fire. In CZ 75 - type action, the real "disconnector" is the trigger bar itself - after a shot is fired, the slide moves backwards, causing the trigger bar to tilt down and fall under the sear. This allows the sear to reset and the trigger must be released far enough to enable the trigger bar to move back up and in front of the sear. TL;DR: removing the disconnector from a 1911 will make the gun inoperable.
My new CZ custom drop-in short reset disconnector works great after shaving about .025" off the face. It resets right where I want it to and goes to half cock...all is good. So of course I have question. I've installed an "old style" trigger to take up the creep/slack (a lot of it) that my stock CZ 85 Combat trigger had and I didn't have room to use the pre-travel set screw. After installing and "fitting" the SRD my trigger has NO appreciable creep (4mm vs. 9.5mm) which looks like I shouldn't need a pre-travel adjustment screw in the upper trigger hole. Is this normal with a short reset disconnector installed (and fitted). Thanks, Bruce Jennings...new subscriber.
The pre-travel set screw is solely to reduce/eliminate the slack in double action when the trigger is 100% forward (hammer down). The pre-travel in that position exists due to the room the trigger bar has to move back between moving away from the "hook" face of the disco and start touching the "edge" of the disco, and then pushing the hammer back. It's possible that, for some reason, the geometry on your trigger along with the shape of disco, ended up with a minimum room between those 2 positions - In which case there is no problem there - the side-effect is what you noticed, meaning you don't really need a pre-travel set screw, since the take up is already minimum.
Thanks for the reply and I will say that you are the most detail oriented CZ tech I've come across on TH-cam or anywhere else...and that is why I subscribed to your channel (which is something I haven't done much of). I don't know why my trigger's creep was reduced to about 4mm from more than twice that with the SRD. I installed the "old style" trigger before installing and fitting the SRD but everything seems to have meshed well. My next step is of course the range to see how it runs.@@czarmorer
Very informative video thanks for taking the time to make this tutorial video more power to your channel
Thanks for the information
Very nice presentation and great information. Thank you. I always wondered how the insides of the CZ works.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent and clear explanation of the role of the disconnector. Good video.
Glad you liked it!
Great informative video. Keep up the great work. It’s really helpful.
I can’t thank you enough for this. I shoot Tanfoglio and this helps me understand the function so much better!
You're welcome! Yes, I work on Tanfos all the time too - when it comes to that area, they are pretty much the same as CZs. Only real difference in the DA operation between the 2 is really on the trigger bar spring and main spring systems - those are different between Tanfos and CZs.
Wow, cool, watching it now. I've always been conceptually challenged by how this all works in a CZ. Thanks!
Glad you liked it.
Great explanation of the disconnector! Very well done! Thank you!
Thank you!
Great video, I always wondered how the disconnector worked.
Glad it helped
Excellent presenation! Thank you CZ Armorer.
thank you!
Thank you so much for this video. Amazing info. Thank you for teaching me so much so quick.
Excellent video! I have to search and see what videos you have on the sear cage mods and assembly. I did deburting and polishing work on my Magnum Research Baby Eagle III, which worked great! What a pain in the ass getting the sear assembly back together! Glad I stumbled on your channel
Well done my friend 🔥
Thank you my friend!
thanks for the video, very helpful! I hope you'll go on with the series "how stuff works" :) it would be very good to have similar videos also for the sear and its modifications (as far as I got, in order to install some customized disconnector, slight changes on sear are needed)
Great explanation. Clear and understandable thanks!
Thank you for the video covering almost all wonders of CZ SH2 disconnector but... you missed one point of it which may have sometimes its role (bad one in my case) - the hooks' bottom end (not top one gliding under the sear cage).
It looks that end is sometimes riding harder on dedicated "ramp" on gun frame which adds its own upward pressure to the disconnector and the hook arm height and its shape of its tip together add another timed force/move onto DA trigger pull cycle.
On mine SH2 Orange, after installation of Ultimate 0.0 disconnector I have got strange uneven and increased DA pull weight which starts with heavier 30% of DA travel, then goes to smooth light part of DA pull travel and ends again with ~20% of DA travel distance heavier weight (+ those heavier parts feel gritty too, much worse than OEM Orange 0.2 disco). Apart from this all functions well, fast or slow, SA/DA/reset.
I do not have enough experience but it might be slightly higher hook arm which now is riding on the frame ramp pushing harder up towards bottom of the sear cage. I see more marks on this frame "ramp" under the disconnector, beside magazine funnel.
Have you ever faced such a anomaly during disconnector fitting?
Yes, I've seen this before. Not very often in my experience though. If your frame has marks on that area, then it's worth to take a look and perhaps shorten the disco hook a bit to smooth it out.
Before doing so, I would measure your after-market disco and make sure it is indeed a bit longer on the hook area than the one you had before.
Great content! I just replaced SP-01 disconnector with Shadow 2 OEM disconnector the other day. It was a lot of work to fit it, but it was super fun and educative.
Background: my shadow 2 is fully cajunized, there are just some OEM parts sitting around.
That's great to hear! That's exactly the process I went through once as well. You have to do some fitting to make it work, but you can get some good results from it.
Nice video as usual, Congrats!!
Great video! Thank you for posting this.
Very informative. AND I need one of those pistol stands!
Those are cheap 3D printed stands... I can print one for you at cost - Find me in IG.
Great video, now I have a practical understanding of how everything works, when I installed the aftermarket parts I kind of flew by the seat of my pants, now I know what to expect.
Great explanation! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. But don't put yourself out of business by doing so!
Thank you! This is not my full time job, so I will be fine if others learn the tips and tricks here and I lose their business with that - I will be also happy if this encourage others to start their own business at some point... I would just be disappointed if anybody loses their business because of it (that isn't my intent at all :))
This is a great video. Thank you!
thank you!
I wish I'd see it earlier when I got an issue with my aftermarket brass disconnector.
Yeah... I don't like the idea of using brass on a part that can wear out over time. And the disco is quite a critical part of the gun's operation in double action.
Thanks for your great work!
Best resource I could find on youtube.
I plan to follow your guide. Could you please mention what discs (and maybe dremel as well) to use for disconnector fitting ? Have no idea what would work well for this task and it feels like it can easily go wrong with the wrong tools...
One recommendation I found in the only other video on this topic on youtube was from a former jeweler who used Zirconia Alumina Blue Discs to fit his disco for S2.
In terms of what you can use everything is game here - A dremel, a file etc. It's more about your experience and ability to do so without screwing up :). If you're not experienced on it, I would stay away from power tools such as a Dremel. Reason is that it's easier to make mistakes with them.
I've used a Dremel to simply speed up the process in the beginning if I have a lot of material to remove... And then either a file or sand stones. Start with lower grits (200 - 400) and move up (600 - 800) as you get closer to reach the fit needed.
The word of advice is "patience". Take your time: 1. Try 2. adjust/work 3. Repeat - until you get there. You win nothing on trying to do anything, when it comes to fitting/tuning, in a hurry.
Thanks a lot for your guidance! I will follow your exact instructions and will not use dremel this time. I will also probably get a caliper instead to make sure I can see the progress while working my way in.
Please consider making a video for begginers some time in the future, since that would boost up that many people's confidence on getting their hands on it :)
Great content. I hope your channel is going to grow fast soon because your videos are really great.
Could you explain the function of the sear and which surfaces contact each other? I dont understand where the sear is going after the hammer went forward and how it reengages with everything after the trigger resets.
thanks for your great videos
Once the hammer falls the trigger bar slides underneath the sear, losing contact with it, which allows the sear to go back in its resting position. As the trigger returns, the slide keeps pushing the trigger bar down while the gun is out of battery - when the gun is back in battery and the trigger moves back forward, the trigger bar will eventually raise again and reengage the sear (that's the reset in single action).
Thanks for posting, im considering an aftermarket reach reduction kit and this really clears things up.
What kind of aftermarket kit do you hsve in those guns
Good vid. One problem I've run into when fitting aftermarket interrupters in Tanfo's is that the gun will drop back into DA function during an SA trigger pull. What causes this? Greasing the contact surfaces usually eliminates it. But some guns operate 100% in dry fire with all the parts dry.
This happens when the timing in the interrupter is wrong... I don't know how by simply lubricating the parts you make it work. That I can't explain, but potentially with the interrupter slipping by being lubricated it changes the timing somehow and allow the gun to work again.. Not sure but it's only explanation I can offer.
@@czarmorer Thanks a lot for answering. I think I have it figured out. I had to take a very small amount off the underside edge of the interrupter wing.
@@paulmarshall9189 That makes sense -I'm glad you've figured it out.
@@czarmorer I have 3 Stock 2's, all fit with Bolos. The tightest of the 3 guns is the one that had the problem.
The trigger bar can move slightly higher as it moves rearward from full-cock to fire in SA. So the bottom of the interrupter wing can get very close to hitting the bar as it moves back forward. Removing a very small amount of material from the bottom edge of the wing solved this for me.
You can see the same thing when fitting SA with the Bolo. The interrupter sits lower and lower relative to the trigger bar as material is removed from the hook. This can be influenced some by grinding the arc forward instead of straight upward.
Depending on the specific parts, gun and fitment in question, I guess the timing can sort itself out or not. The fit I'm taking about on the wing is a little less than you'd probably need if you got SA working but there wasn't enough clearance for DA to break properly.
I expect hammer geometry is also a factor. All 3 of my guns have Unica hammers. I guess fouling can further influence the trigger bar's position. My problem started occurring at about 5k rounds. Cleaning and lubing the gun got rid of it until the fouling built up again.
Thank you for your presentation. Very useful informations.... I am struggeling with a problem that after I installed an eemantech disconnector I was able to trigger in single action (hammer pulled back by hand) and double action as long as I don't pull back the slide. If I do so, my trigger won't move.....it's almost like i put on safety, which I didn't. It just stays in a rear position and won't let me trigger or even push it back forward or anything. I have to take apart everything until I get the sear cage out. After I put it back together, the same game starts again. After I put the original disconnector back in, I didn't have that problem anymore...... Have you ever heard of that kind of problem? Maybe you read that and we might get in contact. Thx anyway.....
The ET disco is likely oversized so you have to fit it to make sure you can reset in Single Action again. You will need to remove material from the ET disco on the hook face - the area where it engages with the trigger bar when you manually pulling the hammer back.
Try filing that area just a bit and see if the behavior changes - If by doing so you can start moving the trigger, even so slightly, then you will know that this is what you need to keep doing until the trigger can fully reset in SA again.
@@czarmorer Awesome. Thanks for your answer. I will give a feedback as soon as I got time to do so. Thx alot, keep up your nice work!
Great video man, i understand how it all works now. What aftermarket interrupter would you recommend for a tanfo?
Great video! By the way, is it possible to tap a small set screw in the stock disconnector to adjust the pre travel on the SA? just thinking for other alternative instead of buying aftermarket disconnector. Thanks for the answer!
I thought of that once, but never tried it. The issue I anticipate with that is that the trigger bar must still slide through that disco's surface when hammer is cocked. So a set screw there could take all the smoothness away.
Cheers mate! Thanks!
May i ask Another question if you don't mind😅, what's your idea/opinion about grinding off the half cock notch on the hammer? Mine is a duty firearm which i prefer to carry with no chamber load. I feel that during slow trigger pull, the sear is catching on the half cock notch a little bit. I read some forums regarding the same issue and some of them suggest to grind off the half cock notch. Thanks for the help!
@@johnrobertbala4291 I wouldn't do it. The half cock notch is a safety feature. By grinding it you will remove the ability of the hammer being stopped before hitting the firing pin in case it disengages from the sear by accident somehow.
Great video thanks! What hammer and recoil spring weights do you recommend for range or comp use? What basic polishing do recommend to smooth out slide operation only not trigger feel?
Springs are really a function of how you play with the gun, the loads you will be using and how much you want to trade off reliability by performance..
I can share what I see the most in CZs DA/SA for competition, but that's just as a reference for you and not something that will be necessarily ideal for you: Main springs will vary from 13lb (heaviest said) to 8.5lb (lightest) - And then you also have the fact that they are not identical between different vendors - Meaning a 13lb from CGW, and 13lb from CZC are not exact the same thing.
For recoil, it will vary from 9lb (lightest) to 12lb (heaviest) - Here you really have to find out what works for your load. And also considering whether or not you have optics, so you also want to protect it a bit and not go too light regardless of your load.
Thanks for the detailed info.
Woohoo! Thank you!
Anyone, where can I order a tap & die to make the threads for a set screw on a cz trigger??? The smaller I have is 1/8 inch. Thanks
You need a M3 tap...You can buy online at Amazon or any hardware store.
Thank you. I’m planning on installing the Reach Reduction Kit on my Shadow 2 compact. However, I’ve read that the disconnector that comes with the kit needs to be fitted (filed down a little). Do you know if there’s a drop in disconnector that does not need to be fitted, that is compatible with the Reach Reduction Kit? Thank you.
Give GCW a call - they do have different discos - I believe one of their models is more of a drop in. The thing with the drop-in models is that you won't be able to have the biggest benefit out of it. In order to have the maximum benefit, they need to be fitted.
If I want to have DAO and the edge for SA is ground down, is there anything else to address? Will the hammer just slowly go down behind the slide on the next shot? Weight of the hammer/timing? The safety would no longer be usable. What would the quarter cock/'safety catch' break quickly? Is it safe to have the hammer come down completely all the time?
I guess the TRS will wear quicker.
EDIT: Can DAO be achieved by the Disco only?
Sorry, I don't think I quite understand what are you trying to achieve. You want to have Double Action Only pistol? Meaning, you want to disable the Single Action operation completely?
@@czarmorer
Yes. Only double action. A rolling feel with feedback and some travel but no staging.
This is completely different platform, but does the 1911 require a disconnector when it is SAO, whereas the disconnector can be removed entirely in the CZ 75?
The trigger mechanism in 1911, as you pointed out, is quite different to the one in CZ75/shadow/shadow 2 and the terminology used is somewhat misleading and problematic.
The term "disconnector/interrupter" for the part in CZ (and it's clones) is IMHO a misnomer. It would be more appropriate to call it "double-action sear / trigger pre-tensioner" (as it fulfills both roles) but it doesn't really "disconnect" anything in the trigger mechanism.
If you remove the "disconnector" in a CZ, you lose double action mode and your pistol becomes SAO with a very long pre-travel. Basically, the trigger breaks in the same position as before, but when you release it, it returns to a position it normally would in DA. Then, when you pull it again, you have the same travel you would have in DA before, but with a very light pull (since you only need to overcome the force of trigger return spring) up to the point where you hit the SA sear. This pre-travel can be eliminated by installing a SA-only trigger shoe.
In a 1911 the part called "the disconnector" works quite differently. When the gun is in battery, the disconnector sits between the trigger bar and the sear and acts as an "interface". As you pull the trigger, the trigger bar moves backwards (the pre-travel) until it hits the disconnector, which in turn, pushes on the sear. When the sear gets pushed far enough, it disengages from the hammer notch, the hammer falls and the gun fires. As the slide moves backwards, the disconnector gets pushed down and it falls underneath the trigger bar thus DISCONNECTING the trigger bar from the sear. The sear is then pushed by the sear spring back to its resting position and, as the slide moves forward, the hammer notch re-engages with the sear. The disconnector remains situated underneath the trigger bar until the trigger is released far enough to allow the disconnector to travel back upwards and between the trigger bar and the sear thus resetting the whole mechanism.
Removing the disconnector in a 1911/2011 gun wil completely disable the trigger mechanism, making the gun impossible to fire.
In CZ 75 - type action, the real "disconnector" is the trigger bar itself - after a shot is fired, the slide moves backwards, causing the trigger bar to tilt down and fall under the sear. This allows the sear to reset and the trigger must be released far enough to enable the trigger bar to move back up and in front of the sear.
TL;DR: removing the disconnector from a 1911 will make the gun inoperable.
@@niznikb Great explanation! Very thorough and to the point - thank you!
@@niznikbthank you, man!
My new CZ custom drop-in short reset disconnector works great after shaving about .025" off the face. It resets right where I want it to and goes to half cock...all is good. So of course I have question. I've installed an "old style" trigger to take up the creep/slack (a lot of it) that my stock CZ 85 Combat trigger had and I didn't have room to use the pre-travel set screw. After installing and "fitting" the SRD my trigger has NO appreciable creep (4mm vs. 9.5mm) which looks like I shouldn't need a pre-travel adjustment screw in the upper trigger hole. Is this normal with a short reset disconnector installed (and fitted). Thanks, Bruce Jennings...new subscriber.
The pre-travel set screw is solely to reduce/eliminate the slack in double action when the trigger is 100% forward (hammer down). The pre-travel in that position exists due to the room the trigger bar has to move back between moving away from the "hook" face of the disco and start touching the "edge" of the disco, and then pushing the hammer back.
It's possible that, for some reason, the geometry on your trigger along with the shape of disco, ended up with a minimum room between those 2 positions - In which case there is no problem there - the side-effect is what you noticed, meaning you don't really need a pre-travel set screw, since the take up is already minimum.
Thanks for the reply and I will say that you are the most detail oriented CZ tech I've come across on TH-cam or anywhere else...and that is why I subscribed to your channel (which is something I haven't done much of).
I don't know why my trigger's creep was reduced to about 4mm from more than twice that with the SRD. I installed the "old style" trigger before installing and fitting the SRD but everything seems to have meshed well. My next step is of course the range to see how it runs.@@czarmorer
@@user-yk1br4sc6p thank you! I appreciate the feedback, and knowing that it's been helpful will keep me going