You dont need to remove the mounting bolts from the engine. You only need to remove them from the frame. This will we ensure an extra precautionary measure, in the case of your jack giving out while supporting the engine, or some other freak abnormal accident happening that could cause your engine to drop. By only removing the mount bolts from the frame, the engine still has a safety net, because the other side of the mount is still atatched to the engine.
Great video. The lower aft engine mount bolt he used a ratchet on can be accessed directly with an extension and socket. If you have the lower wheel well lining out. Just lift up on the upper plastic lining and you will see the access hole.
Thank you for the video. As some others suggested, mine had the cone on the harmonic balancer which hits the frame when jacking the engine up. Instead of pulling the balancer I removed the battery box, put another jack under the transmission pan, removed the two transmission mounting bolt that are facing up and lowered it about 4 inches and then jacked up the passenger side of the engine. This gave plenty of room for the cone shape balancer to clear. Worked great as I didn’t have the right size torques socket for the harmonic balancer bolts.
Some models will require you to remove your harmonic balancer. Not sure if it's an OE balancer that's been superseded by a new version or maybe a third party manufacturer but some will have a cone looking hub to them. Remove balancer and continue.
Great video but some info was missing. Some the bolts are "stretch" Torque-to-Yield" bolts and must be replaced with new ones and you didn't say which ones they were. Also, what are the torque specs for all of the bolts when you replace them?
Responding for other people as I just did this. Yes you do have to remove the transmission mount under the battery to raise it high enough to get the pump out, undo the 4 attaching the mount to the body
So I need to change my water pump on my 2006 Jetta 2.5L and am going to be buying everything including tools to do so. Will a 20v impact wrench be ok or should I get a 24v? Also, does anyone know of a video or something I can see that shows the transmission mount bolts because I looked it up and can't find one.
Hey so for tools you're probably gonna be fine with just a 20v impact but you'll want to have a ratcheting breaker, u can get a cheap one but just something to break it loose, something like 20-24 inches would be good enough.
Has anyone changed the water pump like this without needing to disconnect the transmission mount or the crankshaft pulley? Also did you replace all bolts in the mount?
I have a 2008 vw beetle and my thermostat housing broke. There is a steel lip on the filler hose ( bottom of reservoir hose. It seems to not go directly in I've replaced the housing and it's bolted in. On the housingbitself there is a slot for it to fit. When I try to push it directly down the housing blocks it and won't fit. It was a hard fit because I didn't remove the manifold I removed the oil cooler to get the housing in. It was very difficult to align the housing itself. I bolted it in prior to putting the filler hose in. My question is should I have put the filler hose in by guiding the metal protrusion into the slot and lock it in that way prior to screwing the housing down?
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You dont need to remove the mounting bolts from the engine. You only need to remove them from the frame. This will we ensure an extra precautionary measure, in the case of your jack giving out while supporting the engine, or some other freak abnormal accident happening that could cause your engine to drop. By only removing the mount bolts from the frame, the engine still has a safety net, because the other side of the mount is still atatched to the engine.
Great video. The lower aft engine mount bolt he used a ratchet on can be accessed directly with an extension and socket. If you have the lower wheel well lining out. Just lift up on the upper plastic lining and you will see the access hole.
Thank you for the video. As some others suggested, mine had the cone on the harmonic balancer which hits the frame when jacking the engine up. Instead of pulling the balancer I removed the battery box, put another jack under the transmission pan, removed the two transmission mounting bolt that are facing up and lowered it about 4 inches and then jacked up the passenger side of the engine. This gave plenty of room for the cone shape balancer to clear. Worked great as I didn’t have the right size torques socket for the harmonic balancer bolts.
Now this is a service to humanity !
Update for anyone looking to do this. This procedure worked perfectly for my 2008 Jetta 2.5l. I did NOT have to take the crank pulley off as well.
Wow, as these videos go, this one is particularly well-done! Appreciated & thanks.
Could it
Excellent video but that tip about the hole in the body underneath to reach the back bolt of the motor mount was a real timesaver
Thanks for sharing!! Now I know how to change the water pump in my 2008 Rabbit.
Some models will require you to remove your harmonic balancer. Not sure if it's an OE balancer that's been superseded by a new version or maybe a third party manufacturer but some will have a cone looking hub to them. Remove balancer and continue.
Love it! No mention about torque specs and just a couple clacks of the impact wrench and then done xD hey I do that too so no harm done
I'm gonna change my WP also even though I don't need to,you made this job look like a piece of cake 😆
Great video but some info was missing. Some the bolts are "stretch" Torque-to-Yield" bolts and must be replaced with new ones and you didn't say which ones they were. Also, what are the torque specs for all of the bolts when you replace them?
Didn’t see any, they are hallmarked by a section of no thread
Good video, really appreciated the detail in noting t and socket size
Thanks really helpful I really appreciate the time to explain to the details 👏
Do you remove the transmission mounts as well
Responding for other people as I just did this.
Yes you do have to remove the transmission mount under the battery to raise it high enough to get the pump out, undo the 4 attaching the mount to the body
How much should this repair cost with labor?
I am wondering how to do a Mk6 version of this engine water pump.
So I need to change my water pump on my 2006 Jetta 2.5L and am going to be buying everything including tools to do so. Will a 20v impact wrench be ok or should I get a 24v? Also, does anyone know of a video or something I can see that shows the transmission mount bolts because I looked it up and can't find one.
Hey so for tools you're probably gonna be fine with just a 20v impact but you'll want to have a ratcheting breaker, u can get a cheap one but just something to break it loose, something like 20-24 inches would be good enough.
Seems there a lot of work to do this.. is the thermostat nearby to also change that out?
Make sure you have extra water pump bolts.
Has anyone changed the water pump like this without needing to disconnect the transmission mount or the crankshaft pulley? Also did you replace all bolts in the mount?
I have a 2008 vw beetle and my thermostat housing broke. There is a steel lip on the filler hose ( bottom of reservoir hose. It seems to not go directly in I've replaced the housing and it's bolted in. On the housingbitself there is a slot for it to fit. When I try to push it directly down the housing blocks it and won't fit. It was a hard fit because I didn't remove the manifold I removed the oil cooler to get the housing in. It was very difficult to align the housing itself. I bolted it in prior to putting the filler hose in. My question is should I have put the filler hose in by guiding the metal protrusion into the slot and lock it in that way prior to screwing the housing down?
Help I was turning crank gear to line up timing marks and the gear turned but not the belt. Im working on a 2013 jetta 2.0 non turbo
Good video 💯
It applies to 2.0 engine?
Shop rate to remove & replace a water pump and serpentine belt. 2009 VW Jetta SEL Wagon 4 Door 20 T Engine TSI FI Dual Automatic Transmissin
Don't you have to remove the trans mount bolts? Under the battery..
Holy crap what an overcomplicated over compact design
Gracias profe x hacer el trabajo. ➕ fácil
Did you have to loosen the transmission mount"
Looks complicated but it's really not that hard fukin legend right here
So no need to mess with any timing?
Thanks
I can't jack mine up the crank pully is catching
Why did you all skip the part where you HAVE to remove the transmission mount? Hmm 🤔
Yah..there's no way I'm doing that. I'm calling someone to do it for me 😭
Title says 2005 to 2010, but the description says 2006-2010. Please fix the title.
Northern car...sux to be you right now
Why don't you use line up pin for wheel???
Use G12 if you don’t want your water pump to brake that often
Not green coolant
The back bolt for the motor mount you can remove it from inside fender well their a hole in the fender that tou can easily remove 🔩