Diesel fuel in crank case I voted for faulty lift pump
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- An additional step when checking the oil now involves smelling the dipstick and making a notation concerning rising levels. It’s no longer only about checking to see if there is enough oil in the crank case more important to make sure there is no diesel fuel in there too.
Soybean farmer I believe u caught that in time seems like the tractor was running real good I know that was a scary moment I know when equipment breaks down it sure gets frustrating but u and I know that there is a man right beside us to help us up and get going again 😀. Soybean farmer hope ur tractor will be ok take care from the blue grass state.
Scott Shaver - thanks for the positive words. at this time I've run the 4020 now about 2 hours light work load with the RWA finishing disc. next I'll do another oil change to make sure I get most all of the diesel fuel out of the crank case. after that I'll put the chisel plow on and put the motor to heavy work believing all is going to be just fine. thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video good advice on about getting into farming. I would suggest the change the engine oil again after a few hours of usage being that oil goes through tubes and everything else it takes a little bit to drain it out by running in will flush out more fuel throughout the engine. You should be fine hope you have a great day we call it farming because it just doesn't go the way we planned. Have a great day God bless
The Farming Life - I've run the 4020 now about 2 hours light work load with the RWA finishing disc. next I'll do another oil change to make sure I get most all of the diesel fuel out of the crank case. after that I'll put the chisel plow on and put the motor to heavy work believing all is going to be just fine. more frequent checking of the oil is a sure thing from now on. thanks for watching and commenting. I hope your recovery from recent events is going well.
Good thing you caught that before it washed your cylinder walls clean good lubricant and wiped all the bearings out that was a good save one thing about the old Ford it don't have one of them I don't think it's gravity right
Rusty Stuff - I was looking at the Ford 4000 and yep, no mechanical lift pump. I think a video is in order on that system. I credit God with saving me in this and in all things. thanks for watching and commenting.
Wow, I would say God was watching out for You Soybean Farmer!
Sean Rhodes - for sure! His blessings are unending and I'm sure to see some more of them as He carries me on and through this world. thanks for watching and commenting.
Those lift pumps were nothing but trouble in my john deer’s skidders we use to block the hole and replace the pump with an electric pump and never touch it ever again
Love those 4020's , made like the people back then ,strong and tough.
Same thing ...2nd lift pump in 10yrs
That was a very scary situation. panic set in running filling my mind, but praise God I had not run that diesel long enough to create enough Heat to actually do any damage.
Even though the diesel does not burn crankcase oil and I never have to add to it between changes I now check that crankcase oil every time before I go out there and cold start Crank the tractor. that was my mistake but it's been corrected.
Thank you very much for watching the video I hope you'll hang around and watch some more of the videos here at the channel.
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Next time try leaving the pump loose until your lines are started. For no longer than you ran it I wouldn't worry, the diesel fuel probably just gave the engine a good cleaning.
41willys62 - thanks for the tip and for the positive words.
Well if you didn’t spin a bearing you can look on the bright side. That engine and oil pan are sure good and clean now.
God protected me didn't hurt the motor. But it sure got expensive with all the necessary oil changes to get the diesel fuel out of the crankcase. 🙂🙏🙂
My 830 3 cylinder john deere is doing the same thing right now. Oil is not as full, but higher than the full mark and I'm hoping it's the lift pump also. Changing it asap and then doing an oil change again. Ain't running it till that lift pump is replaced. Mine is old and glass also. Thanks for the informative video. You help so many others by sharing this information.
Glad things worked out SF. You sure did dodge a bullet.
Chuck Stevenson - I feel like it is all going to be ok. some use and watching the oil use will determine if any real damage was done. I've had the tractor for a little over 17 years and it never used any oil. thanks for commenting Chuck.
Glad to see no damage was done to the engine. A major repair like a blown engine could mean the end of farming for little guys like you and me. I can certainly relate to what you said about only having what you need as far as equipment. Same here, if I have a problem I just can’t go to the shed and get another one because I don’t have another one of anything.
Massey1105driver - I'd for sure have to bust a piggy bank to deal with a blown engine. trouble is I don't have a piggy bank that big. sometimes satan gets in my mind to bring the picture into focus of just how close to the edge I really am BUT I shut him up with a good rebuking then thank God for the knowing of how it is God who is my provider and there will always be enough to carry me through. yep, I've had several days when something I was using broke and brought farming to a halt until I figured out how and then fixed it. just can't stand there with my hands up in the air, got to jump right on it and not miss the window when farming. last year was the first time I left land unplanted due to wet weather with rain on rain and more rain. thanks for commenting.
Can a bad injector pump also allow this to happen?
With this particular model injector pump yes it can happen it's a series of worn seals that would cause it.
Another cause to this could be leaking injectors i had this problem on my Case 1294 the injector nozzles got so bad that they started leaking fuel into the crankcase mixing it with the engine oil so i had to recondition them immediately after a week of waiting i put everything back together and she ran better no massive amouns of smoke and no oil level change on the dipstick
I can see how that would have been an issue. fortunately for me it was the lift pump, problem resolved. I'm very serious about checking the oil in that crankcase before I ever Crank That tractor anymore.
thanks for your input.
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel.
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@@SoybeanFarmer3300 Same thing here, luckily the engine survived it which is good, next year i will change the oil and the transmission oil and filter, the transmission oil on some tractors have a dipstick on them if they do i check that too :p
@@lucasbergfors9446 yes fortunately for me I didn't do any engine damage. I caught it real quick. There was about 2 gallions of diesel fuel in addition to the 3 gallons of oil in the crankcase. I didn't run it much longer than about 5 minutes before I called on that something was bad wrong. Praise God
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I could not see the oil pressure guage, if your oil pressure is about the same you have just spring cleaned the 4020 on the inside.
4020 has light....Correction his has a light mine has a light and guage.......
Frank Deegan - no gauge. I like the idea of no damage and just a spring cleaned 4020 on the inside. thanks for commenting.
Farming for Fun & Profit - gave a lot of thought to adding a gauge back when I replaced the pressure switch. if you can make me a video to show me how yours has a light and a gauge. thanks.
Just goes to show you keep an eye on things ! That's why my Long is sitting in the barn now unused, Its leaking fuel threw the injector pump into the crank case and I haven't found anyone to rebuild the pump yet. Its really good you caught it when you did or like you said it would have been bye bye engine ! Like others have said I'd put a few hours on the oil and change it again just to be sure, An oil change is cheaper than an engine rebuild ! Bandit
Bandit farmer - at this point in time I've run the 4020 now about 2 hours light work load with the RWA finishing disc. next I'll do another oil change to make sure I get most all of the diesel fuel out of the crank case. after that I'll put the chisel plow on and put the motor to heavy work believing all is going to be just fine. more frequent oil checking and smelling is going to happen for sure. kind of a curse when you have a motor for 17 years that don't use oil, you get lazy about checking it. I sure hope it still don't use oil, Rotella is up to 19 dollars a gallon when bought in the gallon jug. thanks for watching and commenting my friend.
Then & Now Automotive in Weymouth, Mass. Rebuilds Fuel Pumps if your interested in having your original pump rebuilt. They do excellent work at a reasonable price. They will also sell you the parts to rebuild it yourself if you so desire. They came highly recommended to me for the rebuild of an antique fuel pump & I wasn't disappointed. Glad you caught your problem in time.
MS.GENERAL.REPAIR - nice to have places that do trusted work. if I ever get the free time and since I've never seen the inside of this pump I'm going to take it apart to examine how it functions. the new one I bought for about 60 dollars is working and I hope for a long time. thanks for watching.
Man that’s a close one. For once a leak was a blessing! Fuel pumps are definitely cheap compared to an over haul. Have u ever had to overhaul and engine in either of ur tractors or combine?
Jake Ziegler - very close one.. the liquid level of oil and fuel was up to just over 8 gallons in a crank case calling for 3 gallons of oil. after seeing what came out of it I freaked thinking this engine has got to be ruined. to the best of my understanding the motor only ran about 12 minutes at less than 1100 RPM with diesel in the crank. at this point in time I've run the 4020 now about 2 hours light work load with the RWA finishing disc. next I'll do another oil change to make sure I get most all of the diesel fuel out of the crank case. after that I'll put the chisel plow on and put the motor to heavy work believing all is going to be just fine. did a complete block build on the motor in the F600 about 15 years ago and about 20 years ago did a short block out of a crate build on the motor in the F150. no rebuilds on the diesels I own. thanks for commenting.
I got a couple videos showing where I removed the factory diagram pump off my Kubota B8200 replacing it with a electric pump because I got tired of getting fuel in my oil.
bparsons72007 - I just had to check that out. nice solution. thanks for watching here and commenting.
I very happy to see you caught that in time!! That would have been a big, big mess!! You are 100% correct about getting a bro farming!! It’s full of struggles and surprises!! Have a great day!!
Landmark cattle - I hope those who asked heard what I said about struggles and surprises. at this point in time I've run the 4020 now about 2 hours light work load with the RWA finishing disc. next I'll do another oil change to make sure I get most all of the diesel fuel out of the crank case. after that I'll put the chisel plow on and put the motor to heavy work believing all is going to be just fine. more frequent oil check too. thanks for commenting.
I'm sure glad you caught that when you did! That really would have been a sad video to watch of a seized 4020, and a hurting farmer. Nice job getting her back up and going!
Denny's Country Life - ya'll might not have appreciated a video of a 60 year old man crying real tears. I fell like all is going to be OK. thanks for commenting.
I had the same exact problem with my
David Brown 990. It was smoking heavily and started pouring out of the cap of the reservoir .I checked the dip stick and it was way above the safe level .I opened the crank case and it came out like a fire hose .Good thing i also used a five gallon pale.After changing the oil it stopped smoking and ran fine.A couple of hours later it was smoking again and diesel was seeping in again.I drained the oil again .
Good thing i also used a five gallon pale . It filled right up to the top.
After watching your video i went ahead and ordered a fuel pump.
It took a few days and by that time the tank had emptied .
I opened the drain plug and a ton of diesel fuel mixed oil ran out again and i ended up with some mess . Again i used the five gallon pales but i didn’t line up the second one fast enough
I put the new pump in added the oil and started it.
and to my surprise it started right up smoked for a little while and stopped .Now here we are two days later and she’s doing fine . No smoke no leak.
I’m glad i found your video and made the right decision .THANKS.👍👍👍
I am happy this video helped you.
I think you actually caught that early enough you did minimal damage if any. I have seen 2 locked up because of this. Thats also the only old glass lift pump like that on a 4020 I've seen so I learned something today!
SolnFarm - thanks for the positive words and for watching.
Going thru the same thing with my 2120 , checked the oil and it was making oil 1 1/2 inches over the full mark , that would have ended my haying operations for sure . Good luck to you and glad to see 2040 sounds to be running strong . Be safe and healthy
I had this horrible bad habit of not checking the oil because my 4020 did not use oil, bad mistake, almost lost that engine. Praise God I didn't run it long enough to hurt it but it was very expensive changing all that oil three times quickly so I got all the diesel fuel out of the crankcase. On the initial drain I got seven gallons out of it so you can tell by that the oil was cut pretty heavily with diesel fuel. I hope you caught yours in time so it's not suffering any major engine damage. 🙂🙏🙂
That was a good catch & tutorial on the fuel pump installation. That was also good advice about getting into farming, especially when using older equipment. To see the 4020 in the field, it looks like you might be good to go. Stay safe.
crslyrn - at this point in time I've run the 4020 now about 2 hours light work load with the RWA finishing disc. next I'll do another oil change to make sure I get most all of the diesel fuel out of the crank case. after that I'll put the chisel plow on and put the motor to heavy work. thanks for commenting.
I just inherited my late Great Uncle's '68 3020, the workhorse of his farm, and have to replace the lift pump on it. Thanks for this video and the heads up on the fuel lines and fittings that need to be ported over. It's going to help immensely! Glad your 4020 wasn't damaged from this one! Cheers!
You are very welcome and I'm glad you were able to find and gain some assistance from this video. That's a great tractor I hope you enjoy having it. Thanks for dropping by the channel I hope you'll come back. 🙂
Pretty hard to kill them old Deere motors. Don't forget you still had oil in the crankcase albeit surely thinned a bit. I believe it will be fine as it's a fairly simple system unlike guyinwy videos who has a New Holland that puts fuel in oil and is causing him huge grief trying to fix the problem.
farmark - I was blessed by God to see the problem before I headed out for hours of cutting lime in. at this time I've run the 4020 now about 2 hours light work load with the RWA finishing disc. next I'll do another oil change to make sure I get most all of the diesel fuel out of the crank case. after that I'll put the chisel plow on and put the motor to heavy work believing all is going to be just fine. I do plan to do more frequent checking of the oil. the motor has never used oil in the 17 years I've had it so I got lazy about checking it. after this no more lazy. thanks for watching.
I've never run a 4020 i have run a 3020 wide front and a 3010 NF with a bucket . they look a lot alike .yes that's why you always check the oil ..
Thomas Marti - more frequent oil checks are on the menu for sure. thanks for commenting.
Back in the early90s I was a field service guy that was servicing equipment on a large industrial site , there was Detroits Deutz and lister engines all coupled to generators the listers had return lines that ran inside the valve cover more than once I came to service this equipment and the fuel oil and oil mix was running out the oil fill . This equipment ran 24 / 7 had no real effect on motor .the oil was changed weekly
Rick Featherston - WOW. thanks for sharing that.
God has Blessed you again!
AKWayne S - for sure! His blessings are unending and I'm sure to see some more of them as He carries me on and through this world. thanks for watching and commenting.
Man oh man very glad nothing happened to the John Deere glad everything turned out alright God was watching keep us updated soybean buddy that is never good when diesel is in oil that could have been very bad I would run it a few times and change the oil again to make sure you got all the diesel out of it take care buddy talk to you later thanks for the video keep me posted that's mine and your favorite tractor definitely would hate to lose it
Kyle McElfresh - at this point in time I've run the 4020 now about 2 hours light work load with the RWA finishing disc. next I'll do another oil change to make sure I get most all of the diesel fuel out of the crank case. after that I'll put the chisel plow on and put the motor to heavy work believing all is going to be just fine. more frequent oil checks too. thanks for commenting.
Soybean Farmer you are very welcome soybean buddy that is what I would exactly do exactly what you're going to do and yes I would definitely keep an eye on the dipstick from now on that didn't just scare you it scared me also because that is my favorite tractor talk to you on the next one buddy have a good morning and I will always tell people about your channel because if I like it I know they will too have a good day my buddy
Typically fuel in oil will just wash the inside of the engine real good. To do damage you really have to work the engine hard with a lot of dilution for a long period of time. Almost all supply pumps come equipped with a weep hole to leak fuel on the ground instead of into the motor. Your old pump may not have had it or the hole is plugged with dirt. Keep a close eye on the oil level. The injection pump on your tractor is way, way obsolete. Just a few shops still build them as parts a virtually non existent. (I have some cores) The pump on your tractor is called a CB pump made by Stanadyne (RoosaMaster). The seal or seals (depends on model) can be replaced as kits are still available. Suggest letting a fuel shop change the drive seals on the bench. (Need not rebuild or calibrate for this)
If you plan on keeping the tractor and if the pump needs rebuilding I suggest replacing the Injection pump, lines, fuel hoses with the newer style pump. Deere use to offer a kit $$$$.
Another option is the junk tractor salvage yards where you can get everything.
Good Luck!
Mike Goodman - a year ago last February in 2017 I had the injector pump rebuilt completely and tested. $$$$ John Deere did the work yes it was leaking and the tractor was running poorly. the rebuild of the injector pump restored power and smooth even running of the motor. it was for this reason I decided to replace the lift pump after talking to the JD man who oversaw the complete rebuild from start to finish. I have a good relationship with him and trust him. we tried to trade my injector pump as a core for an off the shelf rebuilt and could not find one so we did the rebuild. I am hoping no real damage and just a good washing of the inside of the engine is what happened. at this point in time I've run the 4020 now about 2 hours light work load with the RWA finishing disc. next I'll do another oil change to make sure I get most all of the diesel fuel out of the crank case. after that I'll put the chisel plow on and put the motor to heavy work believing all is going to be just fine. more frequent oil checks too. thanks for commenting.
Fill the tank with fuel. Sometimes a low pressure will make the seals leak, Let it sit for a few days and check oil level. Seems the seals work good with pressure and leak with no pressure. Thanks for the reply!
Mike Goodman - after running it for two hours I refilled it just for the reason you stated. 4 hours later I checked the oil to get a reference on the stick. been sitting now and in a few hours it will be 30 hours since I checked and I'll check it again. worst thing is to think something is fixed when it is not. thanks for the tip.
Good you got that old tractor running but by now I’m about convinced that any of John Deere’s tractors from that time to the late 80’s are nearly indestructible. My granddad’s 2020 has water in the oil right now but we pressurized the radiator and not a drop fell. I’m hoping there’s nothing wrong with that 2020 either but like I said I think it will survive. Good video!
Try your pressure test at 3 different temperatures if you haven't already. stone cold, warmed up a bit, & full operating temperature. You may have a leak that only shows up during certain expansion/contraction conditions. HTH
Andrew W. - I don't think the quality of metal now in 2018 is anywhere near the quality of metal back in 1970. I've run the 4020 now about 2 hours light work load with the RWA finishing disc. next I'll do another oil change to make sure I get most all of the diesel fuel out of the crank case. after that I'll put the chisel plow on and put the motor to heavy work believing all is going to be just fine. thanks for watching.
MS.GENERAL.REPAIR - excellent point with how temperature will change things. great suggestion.
Engine was made in France, Argentina, Mexico, USA, or India? Now when I went to a new Chevy car lot once, there were 2 identical cars. One was made in the USA and one was made in Mexico. Both had the same price. I asked the salesman about the Mexican made car and why it wasn't cheaper? Also, Japan was exporting a bad grade of steel to us for years and just got caught. The Chinese parts are made from bad pot metal. My brother works on transmissions and has to send parts back all the time. Nice video. Teagards...
Fastestinthewest - thanks for the thought and for watching. I don't think the quality of metal now in 2018 is anywhere near the quality of metal back in 1970.