Great video, as usual! Thanks a lot! One little comment, I rushed to my X100V to "practice" and noticed that Photometry option was greyed out. Maybe worth mentioning that IF eye detection is on (any option), the Photometry deactivates itself... Turn Eye detection off if you want to toggle between different Photometry options. :)
being able to interlock spot ae & focus, i always thought was so amazing. i like to shoot moody scenes and that's helped so much. wish other companies had that awesome feature.
Booray, I can't speak specifically to the area covered by center weighted metering on the X100V but on film based SLR's it was more accurately called bottom center weighted metering. It was weighted to decrease the emphasis on the typically much brighter sky which often led to underexposure of the most important part of a landscape photo. I suspect that the X100V metering is similarly designed. 16:06
I use manual exposure and use the histogram 90% of the time, so usually have no need for exposure comp or the meter. The other 10% when I use Aperture priority or Auto I usually use centered weighted or the default for eye autofocus.
I shoot quite a bit of landscape but have always used multi. Thanks for explaining how that mode works! I’ll give average a try now - in many years of using Fuji camera, I’ve never really tried it! 🙄😂
Hey Booray, I have a Nikon DSLR Camera, and the metering modes are, Matrix, Centre Weighted, and Spot. When I'm shooting the Moon i use Spot metering. If i don't use Spot Metering, all the areas around the Moon are very bright. By using Spot Metering your just getting the moon and no surrounding light and glare. Thanks for this video, nice topic.
I think center weighted was the most common metering method in older analog DSLRs like my Pentax ME and still is in a lot of smartphone cameras. I use it a lot. It has lost a bit of popularity due to people being obsessed with not smashing highlights. But I think people should at least know what they want to achieve. If I take a pic of an object against light I don’t care about smashing the highlights.
Hey Booray! I used to primarily use spot metering for my landscapes. I would typically find the brightest area that would normally fall in Zone VIII (clouds) and then adjust my exposure -2/3 of a stop to prevent the highlights from clipping. That way the scene falls off gradually from highlight to shadows and then I can bring my shadows back up in post if desired. After watching Hugh Brownstone's excellent street photography guide on B&H, I stopped using metering all together. Now I just use my eye as he advised. I was skeptical at first but wow does it ever work! Happily passing it along to you and this wonderful community. th-cam.com/video/rHkJMwdog1g/w-d-xo.html
I generally use Multi , but if the scene is exceptionally bright or dark, or I think the camera is fooling me, I’ll switch to Spot. With Spot I still try to figure what I’m metering on is in what zone (sorry I might be getting ahead of you) .
Is proper exposure still that important after the film era? I mean, really, isn't every digital shot capable of being manipulated in some sort of software at post, and usually the first, and most basic fix, is exposure? I'm just curious about that.....
Well it's true that you can certainly fix a lot more and fix it easier than you could in the past it's still not the same as getting the proper exposure in camera. For example if you blow your highlights in camera you can't recover them in post because the camera hasn't recorded anything for you to recover. I also think that a lot of Fuji X100V users don't shoot in RAW and changing your exposure on a JPEG doesn't work as well so you're better off getting it right in camera.
Thanks for the advice! I have to mention your sound in your video. There is something wrong… it sounds very metallic as if your voice echos somewhere 😏
@@BoorayPerry Ok that is strange, but i have now tried both on my iPhone and my computer via headset and its still the same. Try to hear the first 30 seconds of your video and turn up the volume. I think it is very pronounced.
I just bought an X100V. One of the reasons I quit using Fuji years ago was the graying out in the menu. Change one item and 6 others went gray. It’s still the same. ☹️My photometry went gray. Why?!! I wish, beg, someone would make a chart of: FUJI GRAY LIST. Yesterday I spent over an hour trying to get my Digital Tele-Conv to come back on. (Sports finder was on!) Please coordinate gray items. Maddening!! Screaming, cursing. What’s wrong with you NOW?!??
@@BoorayPerry I figured that out. It's just that it takes so long to find out what made an item gray out. The book will say, "This does not work in some modes." Which mode?
Photometry zoning is not really affective in giving the perfect exposure unless you understand how to peg your highlights and shadows using reflective TTL metering on different surfaces and there shades. If u don’t understand what exposure compensation you dial in for a black, white or mixed image with bright highlights or deep shadows everything your teaching here is almost pointless.
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You just helped me figure out why the photometry setting has always been grayed out.....yep, aet on eye focus.
Thanks
Great video, as usual! Thanks a lot! One little comment, I rushed to my X100V to "practice" and noticed that Photometry option was greyed out. Maybe worth mentioning that IF eye detection is on (any option), the Photometry deactivates itself... Turn Eye detection off if you want to toggle between different Photometry options. :)
I should have worry that out but I didn't think about it. 🙂
I always use multi, with highlight alerts enabled so that I can quickly fine-tune via the exposure compensation dial.
being able to interlock spot ae & focus, i always thought was so amazing. i like to shoot moody scenes and that's helped so much. wish other companies had that awesome feature.
Great video as always. Spot metering for black&white to meter for the blacks or the whites.
Booray, I can't speak specifically to the area covered by center weighted metering on the X100V but on film based SLR's it was more accurately called bottom center weighted metering. It was weighted to decrease the emphasis on the typically much brighter sky which often led to underexposure of the most important part of a landscape photo. I suspect that the X100V metering is similarly designed. 16:06
I’ve been using centre weighted but now I’m going to try Multi … thanks!
Give it a try and see what you think. :)
I use manual exposure and use the histogram 90% of the time, so usually have no need for exposure comp or the meter. The other 10% when I use Aperture priority or Auto I usually use centered weighted or the default for eye autofocus.
I shoot quite a bit of landscape but have always used multi. Thanks for explaining how that mode works! I’ll give average a try now - in many years of using Fuji camera, I’ve never really tried it! 🙄😂
It does make me wonder if we need so many modes now that we have the ability to see the exposure in real time. 🙂
Hey Booray, I have a Nikon DSLR Camera, and the metering modes are, Matrix, Centre Weighted, and Spot. When I'm shooting the Moon i use Spot metering. If i don't use Spot Metering, all the areas around the Moon are very bright. By using Spot Metering your just getting the moon and no surrounding light and glare. Thanks for this video, nice topic.
Hi Booray! I don’t own the Fuji X100V, but I do shoot with a couple of XT-3 cameras. Love your channel & your teaching style. Best wishes.😊🙏
Hey thanks! :)
I use multi all the time and adjust with the Exposure Comp as needed.
That's what I do too. 🙂
I think center weighted was the most common metering method in older analog DSLRs like my Pentax ME and still is in a lot of smartphone cameras. I use it a lot. It has lost a bit of popularity due to people being obsessed with not smashing highlights. But I think people should at least know what they want to achieve. If I take a pic of an object against light I don’t care about smashing the highlights.
Hi Booray, I am looking for a lens adaptor for sony e-mount lens to Fujifilm x-mount camera. Do you know who makes this adapter?
Hey Booray! I used to primarily use spot metering for my landscapes. I would typically find the brightest area that would normally fall in Zone VIII (clouds) and then adjust my exposure -2/3 of a stop to prevent the highlights from clipping. That way the scene falls off gradually from highlight to shadows and then I can bring my shadows back up in post if desired. After watching Hugh Brownstone's excellent street photography guide on B&H, I stopped using metering all together. Now I just use my eye as he advised. I was skeptical at first but wow does it ever work! Happily passing it along to you and this wonderful community. th-cam.com/video/rHkJMwdog1g/w-d-xo.html
I generally use Multi , but if the scene is exceptionally bright or dark, or I think the camera is fooling me, I’ll switch to Spot. With Spot I still try to figure what I’m metering on is in what zone (sorry I might be getting ahead of you) .
Is proper exposure still that important after the film era? I mean, really, isn't every digital shot capable of being manipulated in some sort of software at post, and usually the first, and most basic fix, is exposure? I'm just curious about that.....
Well it's true that you can certainly fix a lot more and fix it easier than you could in the past it's still not the same as getting the proper exposure in camera. For example if you blow your highlights in camera you can't recover them in post because the camera hasn't recorded anything for you to recover. I also think that a lot of Fuji X100V users don't shoot in RAW and changing your exposure on a JPEG doesn't work as well so you're better off getting it right in camera.
Thanks for the advice! I have to mention your sound in your video. There is something wrong… it sounds very metallic as if your voice echos somewhere 😏
Hmmm. I don't hear that at all and you're the only person to mentions it.
@@BoorayPerry Ok that is strange, but i have now tried both on my iPhone and my computer via headset and its still the same. Try to hear the first 30 seconds of your video and turn up the volume. I think it is very pronounced.
I just bought an X100V. One of the reasons I quit using Fuji years ago was the graying out in the menu. Change one item and 6 others went gray. It’s still the same. ☹️My photometry went gray. Why?!! I wish, beg, someone would make a chart of: FUJI GRAY LIST. Yesterday I spent over an hour trying to get my Digital Tele-Conv to come back on. (Sports finder was on!) Please coordinate gray items. Maddening!! Screaming, cursing. What’s wrong with you NOW?!??
Usually when the photometry is grayed out it's because you are in a mode that sets it for you. The most common is eye-tracking. 🙂📷
@@BoorayPerry I figured that out. It's just that it takes so long to find out what made an item gray out. The book will say, "This does not work in some modes." Which mode?
@@judem429 Oh I get it. Trying to navigate the owner's manual of a modern camera is like a multi-volume encyclopedia
Photometry zoning is not really affective in giving the perfect exposure unless you understand how to peg your highlights and shadows using reflective TTL metering on different surfaces and there shades.
If u don’t understand what exposure compensation you dial in for a black, white or mixed image with bright highlights or deep shadows everything your teaching here is almost pointless.
One lesson at a time. 🙂📷