Fuji X100V Zone Focus Workshop - In 8 Minutes!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2024
- Zone focusing is one of the most powerful tools for street photographers looking for the “decisive moment”. It’s easy to do with true manual focus lenses but a bit of a challenge with an AF camera like the X100V. My 8 minute workshop will get you through the tricky parts!
Some people think zone focusing means "guessing" the distance to your subject then setting that value on your camera. But instead of guessing the idea is to use depth of field to create a "zone" of focus that includes your subject. It's sort like casting a big net for a little fish.
There are really only 2 zones you need to worry about for street photography. Hyperfocal and close-up shots. And once you know the correct focus distance for each you're ready to go! The real trick comes in setting that manual focus distance on an AF camera like the Fuji X100V.
But that's what I'm here for!
CHAPTERS:
0:00 Intro
0:37 What exactly Is zone focus anyway?
1:04 Depth of field and hyperfocal distance.
2:24 Setting focus distance on the X100V.
3:47 Setting close up focus zone.
4:40 How I use zone focus on the street.
5:42 Sample shots using zone focus.
6:03 Why shoot at f8?
6:54 Zone focus is best with manual focus lenses.
7:29 Conclusion.
CORRECTIONS:
2:07 The formula to determine hyperfocal distance is (FocalLength^2)/(FStop*CircleOfConfusion). If we assume a CoC of .02 on the X100V then this formula resolves to to 3306.25 mm or 10.84 feet. I'm erring on the far side by saying "about" 12.5 feet because anytime I've tried focusing closer on the X100 system, infinity is slightly soft. Which I hate.
---
Full length article with hi-res samples is available available on StreetShootr.com - Check it out and see how X100V zone focus can take your photography to the next level!
www.streetshootr.com/fuji-x10...
You can pick an X100V at your favorite online retailer:
X100V (black) at B&H: bhpho.to/3MBKIhq
X100V (silver) at B&H: bhpho.to/3G5y73f
Canadian viewers can find the X100V at Canada's favorite camera store:
X100V (black) at CameraCanada: tinyurl.com/ypm9n9bc
X100V (silver) at CameraCanada: tinyurl.com/yc5j2mmb
Follow StreetShootr:
WEBSITE: www.streetshootr.com
TWITTER: / thestreetshootr
INSTAGRAM: / streetshootr
TH-cam: / streetshootr
FACEBOOK: / streetshootr
Filmed in 4K with this camera: bhpho.to/386It6t
And this lens: bhpho.to/3lxMHXH
On camera mic: bhpho.to/3MDABIq
Lav mic/recorder: bhpho.to/2IuXnB7
Filmed in Toronto with a Sony FX3.
Fuji X100V Zone Focus Workshop With Sample Pics.
Love the recent video releases. Great to see you back and hearing the tips and tricks. Your hyperfocal animation was first class.
Thanks Paul. I really enjoyed putting this video together... Already working on the next one!
Can’t wait to practice
great explanation. thank you!
I've been shooting for 50-plus years, and I agree 100% percent with all of your points. I shot with Leica M cameras and on the street, I always relied on zone focusing. It's faster than AF because it is already "there".
I bought the original X100 with hopes of recreating my Leica experience, and the auto focus was so slow on that model that zone focusing was the only practical way to shoot on the street.
One thing, my X100 (and my other Fujifilm cameras) have a focus by wire that can cause drift from your setting, just the oscillation of walking can send minute impulses to the focusing system, so periodically check that the distance you need is where the camera is focused at.
FWIW... neat trick from my Leica days, a 35mm lens (23mm in Fuji world) has a cool mathematical thing that can really allow for great grab shots, really letting your zone-focused lens do its thing.
The distance from the subject is equal to the coverage edge-to-edge when holding the camera in the horizontal (landscape) orientation. If you are ten feet from a wall, you will get 10 feet of that wall in the frame. You don't need to measure, just visually estimate.
This trick and a zone focused lens will allow you to move about without looking thru the finder and get in position for a shot while simply looking with your eyes. You can even shoot from chest level and have a good idea on your framing and of course the focus will be covered by the zone.
Thanks for the comment, Albert!
Focus drift when shooting zone on the X100s/t/f/v is definitely a concern and I've trained myself to check it every once in a while to make sure focus is still where I want it to be. I ended up adding a rubber band around the lens and this provides "just enough" pressure to help with that problem. Not fool proof but gets the job done most of the time!
That's a cool tip on estimating distance! Gonna play with that for sure!
K.
Great tip! Will try that, thank you!
So cool to see different styles of shooting
Thanks Jay!
Awesome method, thanks!
Great tips for the x100v !!
thank you, Karl. this was extremely helpful to this amateur street photographer.
Glad you liked it!!
Excellent tips!! Many thanks.
My pleasure!
A very useful and very clear video, thanks a lot, I'll try that.
Thanks Nicolas! Glad to hear you enjoyed it!!
Great advice I have just acquired a Fujifilm x100T and this technique works just great for me . Thanks for the top tip!
Glad you enjoyed!! The T is still a great little camera... And once you master zone focusing you'll never notice the slower AF speeds again!
I been using zone focus for years. I always refer myself like a samurai because samurai know their blade distance very well, and it kinda irritated me that when people think manual focus is slow merely because they don't know how to zone focus. And yes I love zone focus.
Great video and technique! I love the zone focus on the GRIII but never thought of how to do it on the V100V 🙏 you just made Fuji even more likeable
Glad you liked!!
This video is great. Helpful, straightforward, and incredibly useful with so many using the X100V these days (myself included). I find the autofocus on the X100V is very slow and missed often, so I want to try zone focusing. Looking forward to implementing the info you’ve provided here. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great vid, very informative! Subscribed!
Glad you enjoyed, William! Welcome aboard!!
I didn't think so with the X100V but I really like to try it a few times. Thanks
thank you
Enjoyed the vid man
Thanks Brian! Just working on the script for the next video... Talking about how my X100V is set up for street shooting. :)
With my X100V i always use that front button to focus and the camera is set to manual focus.
Good video!
When I shot the X100F video in Havana I only had a thumb rest for the X100T and it blocked the back focus button... So I had to improvise and started using "front button focus" instead. The reality is that the front button is actually a lot easier to get to when you're holding the camera and shooting.
Good to hear other folks have discovered the same thing!!
This video is wonderful! Such a great explanation, and easy to replicate approach for a noobie like me. I'll be using your zone focus technique in Toronto too, on my X100s. Maybe I'll see you around :)
This is very interesting. Will give it a try when my x100v arrives....hopefully before I die.
The supply issues with the X100V are crazy!!
Zone focusing is one of the things I absolutely love about manual focus lenses like for example on my analog Canon A1. But I never really thought about using it with my digital cameras.
After seeing your video now I really wanna try it with my Fuji X100T. Especially in street photography scenarios zone focusing is just too helpful for not giving it a try.
Glad my video could help!! :D
Hooray you’re back!
Thanks ggn1! Already working on the next video!!
@@karledwards do you think you’ll video about studium and punctum?
It’s a great all around principle when setting up ideas for street photos!
@@ggn1 I honestly don't spend too much time on theoretical topics like this but there might be some overlap in an upcoming video about storytelling. Stay tuned! :)
@@karledwards please do see if you can try to squeeze it in m. Ever since Jamie Windsor mentioned it in one of his videos it completely changed my way how I approach street photography.
Capturing the decisive moment is one thing, but just telling yourself if the photo has any impact when you first see it has helped me cull down a lot of “snapshots” so I have more keepers.
Would also be good to compare “decisive moment” shots to Daido Moriyama’s works which is a complete opposite.
Luv the idea of keeping it manual focus but back button AF
Zone focus/Manual focus on the X100V is great. It makes the camera incredibly responsive, especially as I like shooting through the optical viewfinder, like a traditional 35mm point & shoot.
I also use the back-button pre-focus to set my zone. Either just in front of me (6ft/2m approx) or full-length portrait distance (15ft/5m approx).
I tend to shoot f/5.6 @1/250th and let my AUTO iso run to 12,800 (I shoot a modified Pan-F Black & White which actually looks nicer at high iso... in my opinion, less "digital perfection").
I have focus peaking ON so I can always confirm the focus by switching to the EVF (I don't like having the rear LCD on, it's too tempting to keep Chimping).
Thanks for the comment. Not sure shooting f5.6 for zone is the wisest choice though. Especially if you're comfortable running your auto ISO all the way to 12,800? F8 or above will give you enough dof for just about all shooting scenarios.
Give the video a watch - I run down all the reasons for shooting this way and give detailed instructions for setting up your camera.
Zone focus works great with SLR film cameras that don't have auto focus. The older lenses have the distance marks etc.
Agreed! The point of this video is to show how you can use the same zone techniques with modern AF lenses like the one on the X100V. Definitely a comprimise but can get the job done!
Thanks for the fantastic video! Very informative. Now I wish I had an X100V... or could even find one to purchase. But no worries. I have an X-T2 and a 23mm f2. How do you feel about shooting wider, or tighter for street. I'll also experiment with my 35mm f2 and my 18mm f1/4. I'm sure different challenges/advantages with these lenses.
Hi Richard...
All the tips for shooting zone on the X100V apply directly to the XT2 and 23mm f2 so you should be good to go!
I'm a 23mm (35mm ff equivalent) kind of shooter so I tend to stay away from the 18 or 35 on Fujis. Both are excellent lenses though... :)
Thank you for the video man. This is exactly what i do. There’s an option on the x100v that calls AF range limiter. It lets you set a range of focus where the distance will move. Like a range. What i do is i set the point a to 4mts and the point b to the same 4mts, so the focus will kept locked at that distance. You can set that function to a button. It works try it.
For my style of shooting though I prefer just setting the focus distance manually and having the versatility to quickly switch zones like I describe in the video...
Love the idea of using focus range limiter to lock focus at a certain distance though! Would definitely help prevent accidental bumps that shift focus while I'm out shooting :)
@@karledwards yeah that’s actually my problem. That the focus on manual keeps getting bumped. Is so sensible to touch. The good thing is that there are options !
@@franciscosalas6779 Totally! It's a "bit" of a problem for me but I typically shoot with the camera around my neck so that minimizes the chances of the lens getting bumped when I'm not shooting.
Every once in a while though! :)
Af limiter is great but wished they could have done it like ricohs snap focus rather using custom button and selecting.
Fantastic video and I just subbed! I’ve always been an AF kind of guy when doing street, but this just makes much more sense, so thank you I’ll definitely be trying this!
…question for you though. Using PhotoPills and inputting the proper parameters using their DoF calculator;
- X100v
-23mm lens
-f8
PhotoPills indicated the hyperfocal distance is just under 11 feet 2 inches.
Thoughts on this?
Hi Andrew,
I've seen a couple different result depending on the DOF calculator and the specific circle of confusion used for the X100V sensor. The formula for calculating hypefocal distance is:
FocalLength x FocalLength / F-Stop x CircleOfConfusion
And if we plug in the X100V's 23 mm lens and assume a .02 CoC for Fuji sensors this resolves to 3306.25 mm or 10.84 feet. When I say it's "about" 12.5 feet I'm erring a little on the long side based on my practical experience.
The reality is that as long as you're around at that point then the difference is really only a matter of a few inches on the front end of your depth of field. So I'd say you're good to go!
Brilliant tutorial, thank you. I have a question if i may. Everything makes sense but @2:52, once I've used autofocus to set distance, do i then switch the focus selector switch on the side of the camera from S (or C) to M? Sorry if that's a stupid question but still learning? Thank you.
Hi BusyBoy! I keep the camera in M (manaul focus) mode all the time when I'm shooting zone focus. At 2:53 I use back button AF to determine where 12.5 feet appears on the manual focus distance scale. You're still in M focus mode but you can press the AEL / AFL button on the back of the camera to temporarily activate AF for as long as you're pressing that button. Hope that helps! :)
This is exactly what I’ve been looking for!! Thank you!
Question though: when I put my x100v in manual at f8, the little blue line in the focus distance indicator scale (which I assume shows the zone of focus) is WAY smaller than the one on your camera. In practice it SEEMS like it’s still okay, but I’m wondering if I have something set weird that’s making my zone smaller than it should be? At f8 with my zone set to the spot just below 15ft, my little blue line reaches about half the distance to the 10ft marker, and not even a quarter of the way to the 30ft marker. Do I have something set up wrong?
Fuji cameras defuault to "pixel basis" for their depth of field scale. Change that to "film format basis" in the menu and you'll be set. MENU>AF/MF>DEPTH OF FIELD SCALE>FILM FORMAT BASIS
Good explanation- I have always used zone focus on a Q2 with a 28 lens and obviously the 35 equivalent on the Fuji gives a shorter zone. My question is - if I use a wide converter giving the camera an effective 28mm will the same optical rules apply as if I was using a naive 28 equivalent on the X100V?
I use it with a 28mm on my film camera all the time and it's pretty much the only way I shoot unless the light is low. It's nice that you get a bit deeper DOF using a 35mm equivalent on an APS-C camera than you would on full frame.
A bit more DOF yeah... But not a game changer or anything. I'd think you'd get more DOF at a given aperture with 28mm on FF than I would with my 35mm equiv on APS-C though.
Great video mate! If I find a spot I like and am just waiting for the subject I'll focus lock on the area I want/expect the subject to be. Defintely going to try this now, always thought it'd be a pain in the arse with the my x100f (and it is) but looks like once you're set its all good. Do you shoot with the burst mode or single shots?
Thanks for the comment, KVLR.
I tend to avoid the whole find a spot and wait for a subject way of shooting... For me street photography is about the discovery of the moment and finding these simple glimpses of beauty in the world. So zone is the way to go.
All my images are single shot. I'll sometimes "work a scene" and take multiple shots of an interesting event or subject. But I prefer to be in control of timing as the the image is being created. :)
@@karledwards Yea Im the same, starts to feel a little forced... enjoying the content keep em coming!
I use zone focus most of the time on the Ricoh GR IIIx. It’s so nice to only compose
Yup! The GR series has that amazing snap focus mode which makes zone focus a breeze. Glad to hear from another zone focus fan!
@@karledwards love to pre focus. So much faster once it’s well setup. I was wondering, don’t ou prefer the Ricoh GR or the x100v ?
@@Cinq1 Both cameras battle for my affection but right now I think prefer the analog dials and OVF on the X100V by a slim margin.
Shooting with the GR IIIx now for an upcoming review... Should be ready in a couple weeks!
Thanks Carl, (Karl?). I’ll give it a go!
It's Karl with a K. Thanks for asking!! :)
Great video!
Gotta laugh though, because zone focusing gives what my very first film camera had... f8 at 1/60th sec with everything in focus from about 6ft to infinity. So we've come full circle. 😉
Totally, right?! :)
Interesting tricks for the X100 - I wish they weren’t necessary though. Fuji really needs to work on their manual focus. I’d happily trade having a programmable “control ring” for just a nice manual focus ring with hard stops and some good resistance. It would be nice to see a better implementation of the distance scale as well.
That would be nice for sure... But to be honest I don't think we'll ever see anything like that on the X100 line. I can't see them messing with such a winning formula! :)
Great video. Informative and entertaining. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Can you do this with most mirrorless cameras? I have a Canon R 8? I guess I just have to Google if canon r8 has this feature.
Principles are the same. But Fuji has a remarkably good manual focus distance scale that lets you set your hyperfocal distance quite reliably. With other cameras you'll need to pick a point in the real work that you "think" is the hyperfocal distance for your lens/aperture and prefocus on that point. Works but is a PITA to say the least :)
Thank you for the video! I only cannot get one thing... As for the second zone (when your subject is quite closed) I managed to assign the AFL button at the back of my camera, use it in manual mode, and it works great. However, in the case of first zone I don't get how to lock this 3.5 m focus permanently and be able to switch zones (is the first zone gonna be assigned to specific button? ). Could you clarify on that?
There's really no way on the X100V to snap the first zone if you're using AF limiter to set your close zone. You'll need to manually dial it in to 3.5m each time.
Great Vid
I'd like to do something similar with the Nikon Z30 fitted with a fixed 24mm lens. As expected the setup is different and the distance meter only shows in manual focus mode and is just a bar - it only shows when you turn the focus ring. If I focus an object 12' 6" away in either continuous or single focus mode and then switch back to manual mode then turn the ring slightly that should give me the position I believe. May give it a go and see if it works.
Aim to move to Fuji later this year.
Can't speak to anything Nikon. The method in the video is specific to the X100V but the basic principles are the same though.
@@karledwards Thanks - just bought a Sony A7C II and I think I know how to set that camera up - greetings from the UK
thanks for the video ! did I understand right ? you shoot Manual using 2 Focus Zone right ? is it possible to create presets for those 2 focus zone ?
Not really. What I ended up doing is manually setting hyperfocal as my go-to distance. Then I used AF limiter to set the near and far distance to my close focus zone distance. Then when this mode is enabled hitting back button focus snaps to that distance for a quick close up shot. Then I use the lens ring to set it back to hypefocal for walking around. Not perfect but usable!
I Cant understand why the blue area on the scale stays so small even if i did the same tricks. Any tips? Is there something that i dont notice.
I've always treated the X100v as some sort of a 'loose' Leica when it comes to manual focus. I'm quite used to it however did not know I could set a minimum focusing distance. Learn new things every day! On a side note, is there any way I can hold down the shutter button halfway and adjust focus at the same time? The camera's only letting me adjust focus when no pressure is put on the shutter button...
Not sure what you're asking... The X100V will activate AF with a half shutter press unless you specifically turn it off in the menus...
@@karledwards I’ve made it so it doesn’t activate AF
for whatever reason zone focus on ricoh griii was so alien to me but this sounds easier or at least made more sense ;p cant wait to get the x100vi and give it a go, when you say you aim to the ground the get focus are you switching from manual to af and half pressing or are you still in manual but half press then shoot?
I use back button focus only I remap the focus to the front button. The camera stays in manual focus all the time and AF is only activated when I press the focus button. :)
Hi Karl, what flash do you use with your “V”?
Hi Simon... I use a fully manual Yongnuo YN560-IV speedlight with the RF-603N II trigger. It's super cheap so I don't need to worry if it gets banged up while shooting plus the flash has a built in receiver for the trigger.
I usually add a Lumiquest mini softbox to take the edge of my flash. But still shoot bare flash from time to time :)
Hey buddy, most of the time I do that with snap focus on my GRIII, hiperfocal on manual lenses, and on the Sony I do rely on the AF, but we’ve discussed this before. If only the 100V had Snap Focus. 😂
It would definitely be on my wishlist for the next X100! I wonder if Ricoh has some kind of patent that is preventing other manufacturers from using similar technology?
Snap mode on the GR series is essentially zone focus but they're giving you a predefined list of distances where you can "cast your net". It's a bit tougher to snap to a close up mode on the GR as you might have to "cycle through" a couple of distances before you get to your preferred close distance. I used touch focus on the lcd to lock focus on the ground when I had my GR III. Worked okay but was definitely a 2 handed operation...
And don't even get me started on Sony! I still shot zone when I had the Sony a7 III but used to look for something in the real world that was about 15 feet away and lock focus on that object. Spent a lot of time counting out sidewalk blocks!
@@karledwards The X100V has already a snap focus function: Go to the AF/MF menu > AF RANGE LIMITER > choose two subjects and limit the focus distance. Assign that function to a button and that’s it.
@@abelardojeda Thanks for the comment Abelardo.
AF RANGE LIMITER can definitely be used to force focus AF to focus at a specific distance but I really prefer to use MF for this and keep AF free to focus on any distance when activated.
I could see this being handy for snapping to your "close zone" as discussed in the video but grabbing focus on the ground at the ground gets me to the same place. And I'd rather have the freedom of not having AF locked down without having to press a button, turn the function on/off then hit another button to confirm. That kind of stuff always takes me out of the moment.
The SNAP FOCUS FUNTION on Ricoh cameras lets you set focus to a number of distances (that you can cycle through on the fly) and AF is still free to move anywhere you need. I'm a big fan of the way Ricoh does it...
Gets you to the same place though!
While I still prefer single point AF with F2, I think this would come in handy for situations where you need to be ready. I love shooting low apertures so the idea of shooting F8 and losing that depth of field seems scary to me !
I hear that - but to be clear... shooting at f8 will give you "more" depth of field than lower apertures. ;)
I just use AF and accept my failures and blame it on the camera. But I think I may sell a couple shelved cameras (looking at you XT3 and GRiiix) and buy an m-adapter and a Zeiss or "affordable" Leica lens and try using manual and zone focusing on my xPro.
I never really liked using M glass on my X-Pro cameras. The crop factor never really worked for me plus the distance scale gets shifted a bit with the adapter... But definitely can work!
For me though, it's not about accepting failures so much as being prepared to capture the interesting moments I discover without any focus lag. I really use this technique for all my shooting on the street where subjects are in constant motion. :)
Zone focusing with a 20 to 35mm is not hard. Gets a bit more complicated with a 50+ mm. Still its the best way to get more shots on street and I like to use it as well, Unfortunately most lens these days dont have the scale on the lens. So my trick is to just yse the back focus button to focus on something I know its more or less at the distance I want to focus and keep it that way. The tip to focus on the floor for close ups is actually a pretty good one and one that I'll be using for sure. Cheers
You're essentially zone focusing with your back button focus technique. My method removes the step of having to decide where to focus in any given situation by keeping the lens at its hyperfocal unless you're shooting close up. Both work though! Enjoy!
Hi Karl. This is an eye opener. Just bought an xt30ii with the 18-55 kit lens and was hoping to shoot some street and portraits. Realized on the first day the focusing and framing was a nightmare. Assume your rec would be a fixed lens, unless there is a way to have zones throughout the zoom. Wish I thought about this before getting the zoom although that does have a place when not concentrating on people. Thanks for any thoughts and a great video.
@@joshfogel9966 zone is really a pain with a zoom. Hyper focal distance changes with focal length so… Grab yourself a 23mm f2 and you’ll be set!
Nun playing basket. Toronto in a nut shell lol
Fuji should implement a “snap focus” system, like Ricoh did. It would be much easier. It sounds obvious for a camera aimed at street photography. I don’t understand why they don’t do that.
The video details a simple way to shoot zone with the X100 series. No need for a snap mode that when you can quickly and easily set the manual focus point using the ring around the lens. Snap mode ONLY sets the manual focus to a pre-determined distance. No other magic going on there ;)
When I set my camera to manual I'm not seeing the focus indicator at all. I change the MENU>AF/MF SETTING>DEPTH-OF-FIELD SCALE >FILM FORMAT BASIS setting like you mentioned but I just don't see any scale. Any idea why that might be? Also it seems like when I do a half button press on the shutter button it looks like it changes the focus of the camera, is that to be expected?
Actually it doesn't look like the half button press is actually focusing, disregard that.
Looks like it was because large indicators were on! Problem fixed!
When you half press the shutter in manual focus mode it "stops down" the aperture. This will make more of the image "appear" to be in focus as a result.
It's impossible to say why you're manual distance scale isn't appearing without seeing your camera in person. You can always check the manual or Google "Enable Manual Distance Scale X100v" for some help there.
While the idea is great in theory, in reality all of my photos using this technique were slighlty blurred. I reverted to using autofocus and pre-AF, which greatly improved the results while being almost the same speedwise.
Hmm. You must be doing something wrong if your photos were slightly blurred. There are thousands of images shot with this technique that are, for all reasonable intents and purposes, tack sharp. Impossible to say what was causing the perceived loss of sharpness in your shots as you haven’t shared your settings…
Critical focus and pre focusing will technically be sharper on a pixel level but the point I make in the video stands. Pre focusing takes you out of the moment and adds a delay to the process. By the time you decide what to focus on, then acquire focus a rapidly moving subject would be long gone.
Might work if you’re taking pictures of static and predictable subjects but that’s not the nature of street photography.
at 5:14 there appears a ghost on the left
such a well made video and with all those details. only downfall for me personally is that I have problems following your fast way of speaking since I am not a native English speaker.
Sorry about that Christoph. To be honest I was trying my HARDEST to talk slowly but I just talk fast in every aspect of my life. I blame the internet!! :)
@@karledwards No problem. I try with subtitles. And keep going with your style. Your enthusiasm is good and much more informative than many other youtubers who are only talking for hours but saying nothing essential. Best from Berlin
I recently bought a 25mm manual lens from 7artians and gave the whole manual lens zone focusing thing a spin. Its the dogs bollocks. F auto focus lens that cost gazillions
Ha! Another convert!! :)
My x100 doesn’t show the same range for focusing when at f8 is there a reason this could be?
Set your DOF scale to film format instead of pixel. MENU>AF/MF SETTING>DEPTH-OF-FIELD SCALE >FILM FORMAT BASIS
@@karledwards no clue what that changed but you were absolutely right! That took care of that thank you!
@@vincepetitjean The film DOF scale is based on looking at prints from a certain distance so things appear to be sharp enough to be in focus. Fuji added the pixel scale to talk about perceived sharpness when you're looking at your image on a pixel scale. Not sure anybody uses DOF that way though! :)
How do i set it up?
Literally start by watching the video. I give detailed instructions for setting up and using zone focus with the X100V.
Interesting always listening to this idea but being a 4/3 shooter for 17 years just never found a need for it on the street.
Thanks for the comment Serafin! Micro 4/3 does tend to have more DOF than a FF camera but you still need to set focus at some point.
Hyperfocal distances will be different depending on the lens and sensor size but the same principles apply no matter what camera you're using. :)
Hi Mate, why at F8 my blue line is still much smaller than you? Thanks
Make sure your DOF scale is set to film and not pixel. MENU > AF/MF > DEPTH-OF-FIELD SCALE > FILM FORMAT
Hope that helps!
@@karledwards it did help, thank you :)
@@kevinb3706 Amazing! Glad I could help!!
@@karledwards Is there actually any difference in the end result whether PIXEL or FILM FORMAT is selected?
@@matthewchiang Hi Matthew. PIXEL or FILM FORMAT only changes how the camera reports on the amount of depth of field you see...
Back when people made prints the distance you stood from the print and print size were also considered.. Fuji added the PIXEL setting on the DOF scale to indicate the apparent sharpness if you're zoomed all the way in on your computer.
I find the range distances for close distances to be really useless on these cameras - on my 28mm on full-frame, I can set my range (or zone if you like) to be 3-10ft or 5ft-infinity. Range focusing (which is what it is really called - zones are for exposure a la Ansel Adams) is just difficult on the x100 series.
The X100V has a 23mm lens (35mm equivalent). If you're shooting 28mm then you're using an optical adapter that may be affecting distance readings in other ways. Wouldn't recommend that with the X100V.
Also, for the record... It's definitely called "Zone Focus". I don't think I've ever encountered any photog who refers to zone focus as "range focus". :) Ansel Adams used the zone system. Same word but very different systems! Hehe
@@karledwards No, what I'm saying is that the x100 series doesn't have external markings to indicate ranges, so you have to rely on the digital back of the camera to note your range. I find the ranges possible with this camera stopped down to F8 to be really useless in the real world. Yes, most people call it zone focusing, but the name doesn't make sense, because they are distances, so it's a range of feet/meters. Ruben Radding is a little militant about this, which I enjoy.
Ughhh so complicated. I'll just keep my Ricoh GR3. Lol. One day I'll make the switch tho.
Not complicated at all... If you're using a GR3 you have snap mode. All we're doing here is replicating what snap mode does in a system that isn't designed for it. There's a couple steps but it's pretty straight forward!!
So, you reached 10k subs and then you stopped? 🤔
Interesting video, thank you. 👍
Ha ha! I got hired on a long term editing gig and had to stop shooting for a bit... Should be back at it in the next couple weeks though!
if only the x100 had actual focus clutch with a distance scale rather than a clunky focus by wire then it be the ultimate street camera....or the snap focus of the gr3
Totally agree! Just about half the video is spent "working around" the AF lens structure. My method works well though... Not as good as true manual focus but gets the job done!
Imagine an X100? with a "real" lens in front........... One can dream
See my recent video unboxing the Leica MP ;)
I’ve been struggling to work out how to do this with my new x100v … Thanks so much, really helpful video, looking forward to trying it … if I could add perhaps add one bit of well intended constructive feedback (no offence honestly meant) … you speak way too fast, which isn’t a bad thing at the right points, but probably not where you are giving instruction … I had to watch this several times. Hope that’s ok and thanks again …
Thanks for the comment... But it's just the way I speak. If I slowed down I might fall asleep mid-sentence!!
@@karledwards 😂 fair comment … thanks again …
Pls use meters as well, not all subscribers are from the US.
Thanks for the comment!
I'm actually from Canada which also uses the metric system but I'm an old timer so I still think of distance in feet and inches. All the info stays the same though... Just need to convert 12.5 feet to 3.5 meters or so. :)
That can be done faster, maybe in 8 seconds, set the distance at the Lens, point and shoot, that was what most people did back in "the good old days" with analog "point and shoot" Cameras !
Thanks Camera Prepper... What you're saying is pretty much what I cover in the video. Just took a couple minutes to describe hyperfocal distance and then figure out how to actually set that distance on the X100V.
If only we had true manual focus lenses (like a Leica) then it would definitely be a quicker process to describe! Are you listening, FUJI?? :)
@@karledwards In 99.99% of all my photography I use manual focus. I do not like cameras like the Fuji X100´s. My old favorite "street" photography Cameras was the Minox 35 ML, a Camera like that in digital will be nice !
@@cameraprepper7938 I agree, older manual focus cameras were lovely and the Minox seems to be designed for zone focus!
But I'm afraid we're pretty much stuck with AF cameras moving forward... Have to jump through some hoops but at least we can still shoot zone with modern cameras like the X100V! :)
@@karledwards I will never get a Fuji X100 V camera, not good enough to me.
@@cameraprepper7938 Ha! I'm actually a fan of the entire X100 line... but I totally understand it's not for everyone! :)
I have one big issue with your approach - using hyperfocal distance aka keeping "everything from x feet to infinity" in focus kills all the fun from having a DSLR/mirrorless camera. 90% of the time when I do street photography I want to have focus on my object and more or less bokeh in the background... If I wanted everything to stay in the focus I wouldn't be using an expensive camera but an iPhone or another point & shoot. Just my two cents!
Different strokes. Most street photographers want as much of the frame as possible in focus and use composition and the psychology of the frame to direct the viewers attention. Personally can't imagine shooting wide open on the street where everything is in motion. By the time you acquire focus your subject is long gone!
You talk about what zone focus is but not how to set it up on the X100V
Um, the entire video is about how to set up zone focus on the X100V.
How would you Zone-Focus on a fart? 🤪
F8 and be there… ;)
Slow down mate
I've tried... It's just the way I talk! :)
I didn't understand it unfortunately. The way you talk makes my brain shut down and I can't follow anymore. Too bad. Anyway, thanks for trying to explain. 😣
What exactly didn't you understand, Frank? Happy to help where I can but you can also check out the written version of this video at: www.streetshootr.com/fuji-x100v-zone-focus-workshop-in-8-minutes/
12.5 feet = 3.81 meters