FYI - About 2000 miles after changing the oil in my 2019 ND (car has 9000 miles) I noticed a small puddle of oil under the car. I was able to reach under the car from the right side of the engine and felt oil around the drain plug. I removed the shield and drained the oil and replaced the crush washer. Problem solved. I am 76 years old and have been changing my own oil since I was 16 and I never had a crush washer leak. From here on out I will use a new crush washer with each oil change.
I haven’t really had issues with them leaking either, except one on my ‘96 Miata that had over 190k miles. Who knows when the washer was last replaced. Always a good idea to replace it just in case!
Ross - drain bolt crush washers are a one-time-use item and should always be replaced. The process of deforming as the bolt is tightened is what provides the necessary seal. Alternatively, you could install a Fumoto drain valve instead, which is what I use on all my vehicles.
Also it’s a good idea to not put the slash guard back on until you have checked for leaks around drain plug and oil filter after you have started the car.
Im probably going to go with 5w-30. Ive read its better for track days, and since Im going to change it anyways after the track day it should be no issue. Thanls for this video. Oil changes is the one thing I dont do cause Im terrified of my engine blowing up. Brake pads anything else you name em, but oil Im too scared. Thanks for taking that fear off of me
Thanks for the video, but should you wait to put the splash shield back on until after you check for leaks? Wouldn't any potential leaks be hidden by the splash shield? Also, how much oil do you put in initially?
Sorry for the late reply. Yes, that would be better, but any oil that spills on the splash shield would drip down to the ground anyway. I think I just got a bit eager to get the car back together haha. I put 4.5 quarts in, that's what the manual calls for.
VERY well done. Especially the pre-filling of the oil filter and the clear flood mode 👍 Different topic, but do you know if you can disable the short revving of the engine at startup (this "roaar")?
Thank you very much! For the revving of the engine at startup, that should be able to be disabled via tuning, but I don’t believe there’s a button or setting for it anywhere in the car
I agree with this. I used 0w-20 in the winter months to help with oil flow, especially on cold start, but switched to 0w-30 in the summer for better protection during spirited driving as well, but also maintain flow at startup
If I didn’t show it I either forgot to film that part or forgot to change it altogether. I’d recommend always changing it out, but reusing it once shouldn’t be an issue
This maybe controversial…but imho poring oil in the center hole of the filter is not a good idea. If by chance any debris gets into the center hole while pouring the oil, it goes straight into the engine w/o being filtered. I’ve seen some YT mechanics recommend doing that but many more that don’t. To me it’s not worth the risk. Otherwise good vid.
Regardless, there is no reason to do that - Mazda's own documentation doesn't say to do it, so why invent the wheel (they do say to lubricate the gasket)
@@dnlzy The manufacturer doesn't care how high the wear is in the engine. In addition, the threads are cleaned during production and you have to clean them again yourself.
Awesome! The one I have is showing currently unavailable on Amazon. It was Apeman brand (just a random brand but it works well). It was this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09GBHTQ66/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Clutch in to start the car, gas pedal all the way downs turns the engine over without actually starting it (either it doesn’t add spark or fuel or both), so it allows the engine to turn over and get the oil flowing and pressure building after changing it before running the engine. Probably not necessary, but I do it for piece of mind
@@Moriggia GT1. I did get them on a couple weeks ago. Hoping to have the install video out next weekend and later the review video. Been getting bogged down by work and other things and trying to make this video as good as I can!
@@DriveMX5 ah ok, I remembered bad, I'm looking for CRD or Ohlins, very different price but maybe not so different quality and performance for what I'm looking...
@@Moriggia that will be part of my review as I had Ohlins road and track, standard version, with 10k front and 4k rear springs per Ohlins recommendation. The Ohlins I got used so it isn’t a directly fair comparison. But I will say the MeisterR are more compliant on the street but get about as stiff if you want them to be. Since they have a softer front spring (6k), I think they handle just as well if not better than Ohlins on the roads I usually drive. Most roads up here in East Tennessee are quite bumpy. To me, MeisterR feels more like the Xidas on an NB that I reviewed than Ohlins as far as their behavior goes. The only gripe I have with MeisterR is that I don’t think the rebound valving is very good. I’ve been launched out of my seat more times on those than any other suspension on those particular bumps that angle up and then go flat, essentially trying to launch the car up. MeisterR doesn’t handle those very well but in all other scenarios have been happier with them so far. I haven’t had them on track yet so I can’t say there
A tip.... a old shower curtain makes a perfect tarp for under your car when you change oil.
You're the best in making miata video.
Thanks for the video. I’m about to do an oil change on my ‘new to me’ 2016 club.
You got it! Quite easy process, thanks for watching!
Also, some years of the ND use a 8mm allen wrench instead of the 17mm socket. This is a great video, BTW.
Interesting, I did not know that. Thanks for the info and feedback!
FYI - About 2000 miles after changing the oil in my 2019 ND (car has 9000 miles) I noticed a small puddle of oil under the car. I was able to reach under the car from the right side of the engine and felt oil around the drain plug. I removed the shield and drained the oil and replaced the crush washer. Problem solved. I am 76 years old and have been changing my own oil since I was 16 and I never had a crush washer leak. From here on out I will use a new crush washer with each oil change.
I haven’t really had issues with them leaking either, except one on my ‘96 Miata that had over 190k miles. Who knows when the washer was last replaced. Always a good idea to replace it just in case!
Ross - drain bolt crush washers are a one-time-use item and should always be replaced. The process of deforming as the bolt is tightened is what provides the necessary seal. Alternatively, you could install a Fumoto drain valve instead, which is what I use on all my vehicles.
Also it’s a good idea to not put the slash guard back on until you have checked for leaks around drain plug and oil filter after you have started the car.
@@scottgratton4209 Great tip!
Im probably going to go with 5w-30. Ive read its better for track days, and since Im going to change it anyways after the track day it should be no issue. Thanls for this video. Oil changes is the one thing I dont do cause Im terrified of my engine blowing up. Brake pads anything else you name em, but oil Im too scared. Thanks for taking that fear off of me
5w-30 is for cold, COLD weather. 10w-30 will lubricant your engine better in normal temperatures.
Thank you for this. Wasn't sure where was safe to lift the car .
Always scary lifting a car for the first time! (Or anytime for that matter, can’t be too careful). Glad my video helped!
Thanks for the video, but should you wait to put the splash shield back on until after you check for leaks? Wouldn't any potential leaks be hidden by the splash shield?
Also, how much oil do you put in initially?
Sorry for the late reply. Yes, that would be better, but any oil that spills on the splash shield would drip down to the ground anyway. I think I just got a bit eager to get the car back together haha. I put 4.5 quarts in, that's what the manual calls for.
Hi, Can you just jack up the front, or does the car have to be level by Jacking the rear also to get full old oil drainage? Thanks
I'm sure you can jack up just the front, however, the OCD in me likes to do both.
Thanks Man
Good Comment , always fill the filter ! ! Hand tighten filter & don't over tight drain plug ! !
VERY well done. Especially the pre-filling of the oil filter and the clear flood mode 👍
Different topic, but do you know if you can disable the short revving of the engine at startup (this "roaar")?
Thank you very much! For the revving of the engine at startup, that should be able to be disabled via tuning, but I don’t believe there’s a button or setting for it anywhere in the car
@@DriveMX5 Thanks!
My manual says either 0w20 or 5w30. I put 5w30 as thicker oil gives better engine protection with spirited driving.
I agree with this. I used 0w-20 in the winter months to help with oil flow, especially on cold start, but switched to 0w-30 in the summer for better protection during spirited driving as well, but also maintain flow at startup
What about a new drain bolt washer???
If I didn’t show it I either forgot to film that part or forgot to change it altogether. I’d recommend always changing it out, but reusing it once shouldn’t be an issue
This maybe controversial…but imho poring oil in the center hole of the filter is not a good idea. If by chance any debris gets into the center hole while pouring the oil, it goes straight into the engine w/o being filtered. I’ve seen some YT mechanics recommend doing that but many more that don’t. To me it’s not worth the risk. Otherwise good vid.
Regardless, there is no reason to do that - Mazda's own documentation doesn't say to do it, so why invent the wheel (they do say to lubricate the gasket)
@@dnlzy The manufacturer doesn't care how high the wear is in the engine. In addition, the threads are cleaned during production and you have to clean them again yourself.
car is tilted, so i think there are more oil left in the oil pan,
do you hold the throttle and the clutch or just the throttle? thank you! 3:35
Both! Clutch to engage the starter and throttle to prevent the engine from firing
@@DriveMX5 Thank you so much I figured it out hahaha i saw you left leg on the clutch so I tried it yesterday after the oil change :D
time saver video! 💯✅
what’s the brand and model of your dash cam? have the rf version!
thx
Awesome! The one I have is showing currently unavailable on Amazon. It was Apeman brand (just a random brand but it works well). It was this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09GBHTQ66/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lively car! Well taked care :)
Thank you!
So what exactly does clutch in and gas pedal all the way in actually do?
Clutch in to start the car, gas pedal all the way downs turns the engine over without actually starting it (either it doesn’t add spark or fuel or both), so it allows the engine to turn over and get the oil flowing and pressure building after changing it before running the engine. Probably not necessary, but I do it for piece of mind
@@DriveMX5 Nice, good to know. Love your content btw. I'm learning a lot of things!
@@BN99239 thank you so much for watching! I’m glad my videos are helpful 😁
Is there a way to start the car without the revs at 2000 rpm?
The only thing I can think of is if you get the car tuned and request the tuner to remove the cold start and/or rev up feature on warm start.
@@DriveMX5 ah ok, did you put the meister CRD? 😊
@@Moriggia GT1. I did get them on a couple weeks ago. Hoping to have the install video out next weekend and later the review video. Been getting bogged down by work and other things and trying to make this video as good as I can!
@@DriveMX5 ah ok, I remembered bad, I'm looking for CRD or Ohlins, very different price but maybe not so different quality and performance for what I'm looking...
@@Moriggia that will be part of my review as I had Ohlins road and track, standard version, with 10k front and 4k rear springs per Ohlins recommendation. The Ohlins I got used so it isn’t a directly fair comparison. But I will say the MeisterR are more compliant on the street but get about as stiff if you want them to be. Since they have a softer front spring (6k), I think they handle just as well if not better than Ohlins on the roads I usually drive. Most roads up here in East Tennessee are quite bumpy. To me, MeisterR feels more like the Xidas on an NB that I reviewed than Ohlins as far as their behavior goes. The only gripe I have with MeisterR is that I don’t think the rebound valving is very good. I’ve been launched out of my seat more times on those than any other suspension on those particular bumps that angle up and then go flat, essentially trying to launch the car up. MeisterR doesn’t handle those very well but in all other scenarios have been happier with them so far. I haven’t had them on track yet so I can’t say there
Is the 0w20 synthetic?
Yes
Idk why my manual says 5w 30
Where are you located? Mine says 0w-20 for the US and 5w-30 for the rest of the world. 0w-20 for the US for fuel economy reasons
Depends on the country.