@@montana2strokeracer you haven't missed it. Things have been hectic as usual. I have a new camera and microphone, so the videos should hopefully be better when I get around to it. Best wishes, Dean.
There is one more bike that I would like to add to my collection and that is a Honda Elsinore CR250M. There are some out there, but they get snagged up quickly and are pricey. My go to guy up in Phoenix is doing everything he can to find me one.
@davidleland8729 yeah they are hard to come by for sure. I found one last summer, it's a 75 model, first of the high pipe model. Have done a couple videos on it. Collecting parts for the restore.
I remember the videos. Hope you can find everything you need to restore it! I have made some progress with the upgrades to the TM's. Had alot of other things come up that needed some attention.
Good job brother. I can’t imagine that cold weather you have. It was 9 degrees here yesterday. They shutdown schools here. We can’t handle the cold LOL.
Thanks Cain, we have a lot of it, so we are used to it. It is very dry here. I have been colder in Texas with the humidity than here. The schools never close for it, the mail never doesn't get delivered, life just goes on. We do have lots of snow removal equipment. So, the roads are normally open.
Another great rebuild and video! I would love to have you redo my TS125 crank, that way I would know that it was done correctly! I have sent word to western Canada to have them close the gate!!!!
Yes, hit the high, H for H, used to use a big copper and hide hammer but the copper is too soft so turned up a bronze head to replace copper wich was ideal.
How much does the stainless steel sleeve repair cost?? You should make a plate with holes for large drill rod pins to square up/align those cranks when pressing them together. I keep wanting to do this myself. As always, beautiful work. Waiting to hear a price for that sealing surface repair. Take care, Robert
Sorry Robert I don't discuss prices in the comment section. Every job is different and has its own challenges, in this case it was a couple hours work. I have seen those jigs to set up cranks, just don't do enough of them to warrant the building of one, it really looks like a lot of stuff in the way to me.
Hey Ken, yes, no doubt it would, but I have never seen anyone, or any manual say to do that or heat the crank half's, it has always been a cold press and you would burn yourself trying to line things up at the press. Scientifically, freeze the pin, heat the half's is right, just not practical is this case. That is the way cylinder sleeves are installed though.
Thank you for posting these videos Dale! I can't find a factory service manual for the 74/75 ts400's specs, most are for the older models. Recently, I just bought a used rebuilt crank (desperate times) now I can check the specs that you mentioned during your rebuild. Any source for finding the correct service manual for my 74 ts400? Thanks a bunch!
Man, those manuals are hard to find, the owner of the crank came up with the spec's I used. He has a 76 TS400, I think he borrowed a manual from a friend. Those cranks are very difficult to find parts for, no aftermarket stuff available at all, that we could find. If I remember I had to use all the old parts, which were good. I think I just made a sleeve for the sealing surface of that one.
Yes, that has been the case for me as well. I found a nos rod in France for over 300 bucks a few years ago. The guy I bought the rebuilt crank from paid 400 for one recently. It's crazy! I still can't find a corrosion free crank pin. Wasn't confident I could reuse parts but this video will be helpful, thanks again!
Yeah, I know the owner really tried to find a pin, they just were not out there. If I remember correctly, the only thing he could find was the thrust washers. I have reused a lot of crank parts without any problems. I change a lot of bearings without changing rod or pins. If those parts aren't worn, they will work fine.
Hi Rich, I am sure you could, but it was not ever done in the early days, not sure whether others do it by heating, but it sure would be hot trying to work around that stuff. But you're thinking is correct, freeze the pin, heat the halves. Just think it would be too hot to mess with.
I just have never seen anyone do it that way, nor any manual state such a procedure, will it work, sure, that's how we install bearings in cases and on cranks most all the time. The one thing that I know, is if that crank was heated it would be really hard to line everything up to do the press. You just have to handle and measure it so much that you would end up getting burned bad before you could get it done.
Dale, Do you indicate your chuck end center for zero run out before truing the crankshaft? Live or dead center on tail stock? Thank you. Jeff Davison. Saginaw, Michigan.
Hey Jeff, I make my own mild steel 60-degree center that I put in the chuck, EVERYTIME I chuck it up for a crank build, I recut the taper, then I check the alignment with the tailstock. I do use a reliable live center in the tailstock. This way you know any difference in readings are coming from the crankshaft. You do need to make sure the crankshaft centers are in good condition. If they are not too messed up, you can recut them slowly with a single point tool on the lathe.
@montana2strokeracer Thank you Dale. I have access to a Lathe with my employer. Just wanted some clarification on set up and steps involved. I rebuilt a 1993 RMX 250 motor over the summer with new bearings and a rebuilt crankshaft. Unfortunately the motor didn't last more than two hours of run time approximately. The crankshaft bearing failed on the clutch side. The ports in the case for lubrication of crankshaft bearings were not blocked by the seals when I reassembled it. Outside of defective bearings or a crankshaft that was poorly trued at reassembly of crankshaft I'm clueless as to what caused the failure. Bike had a serious hanging idle when coming off the pipe at idle speed. I don't think it was running lean enough to warrant the bearing failure. Jeff.
Jeff that sucks that is a lot of work for it to end up that way. I think if it was lean, you would lose a piston before a bearing. I would just start tearing it back down and looking at everything as I go. I am not familiar with the RMX, does the right side crank bearing oil with transmission oil, or premix.
@@montana2strokeracer Hello Dale, Lubrication of right side crankshaft bearing is with fuel. I've pulled the motor down again and inspected. I agree that the piston would fail before a crankshaft bearing in a lean running scenario. Personally I feel it was a defective bearing or the crankshaft was poorly reassembled and trued. I can't use the lathe at work to check it for run out. No live center for the tail stock. I don't want to send it out for another rebuild before I can inspect it. The RMX250 is based on the RM series but has a wide ratio transmission and lighting capable stator. They were manufactured between 1989 and 1998. Any ideas for a setup or stand for checking run out of crankshaft? Thank you.
Another great video Dale: You have mastered the art of motorcycle repair and video presentation.
Thank you, John, not sure that is true, but I am having a great time playing with the old bikes.
Always a pleasure Dale. I love it when a part that would be scrap can live again.
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean, yep, it's fun gettin it done. When you going to start your next project. Or have I missed it?
@@montana2strokeracer you haven't missed it. Things have been hectic as usual. I have a new camera and microphone, so the videos should hopefully be better when I get around to it.
Best wishes, Dean.
I saw your new camera and audio in action on your last video, lots better my friend.
I'm jealous of your warm shop, but not the weather it protects you from. Great job on the crank.
I understand Jack, I just enjoy the heat in the garage, but when spring gets here, I love to have the garage door open like when you were here.
I did it again Dale. Just got home with a 71 TS125 and a 74 TM125. Both are in really good shape after recent restorations.
Oh, gee whiz, you are the man. Would love to find another TM, you're going to have fun with both of them.
There is one more bike that I would like to add to my collection and that is a Honda Elsinore CR250M. There are some out there, but they get snagged up quickly and are pricey. My go to guy up in Phoenix is doing everything he can to find me one.
@davidleland8729 yeah they are hard to come by for sure. I found one last summer, it's a 75 model, first of the high pipe model. Have done a couple videos on it. Collecting parts for the restore.
I remember the videos. Hope you can find everything you need to restore it! I have made some progress with the upgrades to the TM's. Had alot of other things come up that needed some attention.
That crank is probably better than new . Nice work Dale !
I think it will give him many years of service. Thank you.
Good job brother. I can’t imagine that cold weather you have. It was 9 degrees here yesterday. They shutdown schools here. We can’t handle the cold LOL.
Thanks Cain, we have a lot of it, so we are used to it. It is very dry here. I have been colder in Texas with the humidity than here. The schools never close for it, the mail never doesn't get delivered, life just goes on. We do have lots of snow removal equipment. So, the roads are normally open.
Thanks Dale. Amazed at your skill.
Cheers, Peter
Thanks Peter!
Thanks Dale ! Great video very straight forward and clearly explained .
Thanks, Murr, I am always learning new stuff, although I have been doing this kind of work for years.
Very cool!!!! What an awesome repair. Looks better than new! Can't even fathom temperatures so cold. Unbelievable!
Thanks Jim, its a dry cold.
Really nice work there Dale!
Thanks David.
Great job Dale, I think I might be sending a crank your way that needs some work.
Thanks Don, message me when you're ready, we can discuss it.
Thanks Dale
Thanks for stopping by Wally.
The gate had holes in it 👍🇨🇦
Thats what I thought, ha, ha, ha.
Great video Dale. Sorry about the gate. -44c last week.
I knew it was you, Dave. Shut that sucker. LOL
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Another great rebuild and video! I would love to have you redo my TS125 crank, that way I would know that it was done correctly! I have sent word to western Canada to have them close the gate!!!!
Thank you, Pete, when you get ready to do it send me an email, we can talk about it. Thanks man, I knew that gate was open. dsweger@bresnan.net
Appreciate it Dale! I will be in touch.
made it!
Here 7am
great job as always dale should be sweet we moan ay minus 5 in england dont no how you do it minus 35 keep up the great work next video please
I know Mark, it's not my favorite either, but nothing I can do about it. Just turn on the heat and keep going.
Yes, hit the high, H for H, used to use a big copper and hide hammer but the copper is too soft so turned up a bronze head to replace copper wich was ideal.
I totally agree with you Brian. Brass is my tool of choice.
How much does the stainless steel sleeve repair cost??
You should make a plate with holes for large drill rod pins to square up/align those cranks when pressing them together. I keep wanting to do this myself.
As always, beautiful work. Waiting to hear a price for that sealing surface repair.
Take care,
Robert
Sorry Robert I don't discuss prices in the comment section. Every job is different and has its own challenges, in this case it was a couple hours work. I have seen those jigs to set up cranks, just don't do enough of them to warrant the building of one, it really looks like a lot of stuff in the way to me.
Would freezing the pin or one them cold boxes work to? Just curious because I have a opportunity to get a box for free ... great presentation.
Hey Ken, yes, no doubt it would, but I have never seen anyone, or any manual say to do that or heat the crank half's, it has always been a cold press and you would burn yourself trying to line things up at the press. Scientifically, freeze the pin, heat the half's is right, just not practical is this case. That is the way cylinder sleeves are installed though.
Thank you for posting these videos Dale! I can't find a factory service manual for the 74/75 ts400's specs, most are for the older models. Recently, I just bought a used rebuilt crank (desperate times) now I can check the specs that you mentioned during your rebuild. Any source for finding the correct service manual for my 74 ts400? Thanks a bunch!
Man, those manuals are hard to find, the owner of the crank came up with the spec's I used. He has a 76 TS400, I think he borrowed a manual from a friend. Those cranks are very difficult to find parts for, no aftermarket stuff available at all, that we could find. If I remember I had to use all the old parts, which were good. I think I just made a sleeve for the sealing surface of that one.
Yes, that has been the case for me as well. I found a nos rod in France for over 300 bucks a few years ago. The guy I bought the rebuilt crank from paid 400 for one recently. It's crazy! I still can't find a corrosion free crank pin. Wasn't confident I could reuse parts but this video will be helpful, thanks again!
Yeah, I know the owner really tried to find a pin, they just were not out there. If I remember correctly, the only thing he could find was the thrust washers. I have reused a lot of crank parts without any problems. I change a lot of bearings without changing rod or pins. If those parts aren't worn, they will work fine.
Yeah we warmed up to zero at Fairbanks today
Nice, I guess you sent all the really cold stuff down here. LOL
Hi Dale, would it help if you heated the counterweights before you pressed the crank pin in?
Rich
Hi Rich, I am sure you could, but it was not ever done in the early days, not sure whether others do it by heating, but it sure would be hot trying to work around that stuff. But you're thinking is correct, freeze the pin, heat the halves. Just think it would be too hot to mess with.
Is heat frowned on as a means of expanding the bore to make the pin install easier?
I just have never seen anyone do it that way, nor any manual state such a procedure, will it work, sure, that's how we install bearings in cases and on cranks most all the time. The one thing that I know, is if that crank was heated it would be really hard to line everything up to do the press. You just have to handle and measure it so much that you would end up getting burned bad before you could get it done.
Dale, Do you indicate your chuck end center for zero run out before truing the crankshaft? Live or dead center on tail stock?
Thank you.
Jeff Davison. Saginaw, Michigan.
Hey Jeff, I make my own mild steel 60-degree center that I put in the chuck, EVERYTIME I chuck it up for a crank build, I recut the taper, then I check the alignment with the tailstock. I do use a reliable live center in the tailstock. This way you know any difference in readings are coming from the crankshaft. You do need to make sure the crankshaft centers are in good condition. If they are not too messed up, you can recut them slowly with a single point tool on the lathe.
@montana2strokeracer Thank you Dale. I have access to a Lathe with my employer. Just wanted some clarification on set up and steps involved.
I rebuilt a 1993 RMX 250 motor over the summer with new bearings and a rebuilt crankshaft. Unfortunately the motor didn't last more than two hours of run time approximately. The crankshaft bearing failed on the clutch side. The ports in the case for lubrication of crankshaft bearings were not blocked by the seals when I reassembled it. Outside of defective bearings or a crankshaft that was poorly trued at reassembly of crankshaft I'm clueless as to what caused the failure. Bike had a serious hanging idle when coming off the pipe at idle speed. I don't think it was running lean enough to warrant the bearing failure.
Jeff.
Jeff that sucks that is a lot of work for it to end up that way. I think if it was lean, you would lose a piston before a bearing. I would just start tearing it back down and looking at everything as I go. I am not familiar with the RMX, does the right side crank bearing oil with transmission oil, or premix.
@@montana2strokeracer Hello Dale,
Lubrication of right side crankshaft bearing is with fuel. I've pulled the motor down again and inspected. I agree that the piston would fail before a crankshaft bearing in a lean running scenario.
Personally I feel it was a defective bearing or the crankshaft was poorly reassembled and trued.
I can't use the lathe at work to check it for run out. No live center for the tail stock. I don't want to send it out for another rebuild before I can inspect it.
The RMX250 is based on the RM series but has a wide ratio transmission and lighting capable stator. They were manufactured between 1989 and 1998.
Any ideas for a setup or stand for checking run out of crankshaft?
Thank you.
I’m glad I don’t drive up there anymore . Have you ever stuffed a two stroke crank before?
I have stuffed them years ago, back then we used cork and epoxy. I think aluminum may be better these days.
@@montana2strokeracerThat’s when we use to do it also. I don’t hear of people doing it anymore. We used cork and epoxy also.