It’s nice to see you in the workshop, Dale. There’s nothing more important to someone than their health, so take things steady and you’ll soon be back to full speed.
Good to see that you're doing better and have returned to the shop. Great information on the proper disassembly of a crankshaft. Using the right tool is invaluable for part preservation.
Wow, that's a lot of info to learn for what at first glance appears simple, but isn't. No wonder why so many cranks are messed up. The bearing removal was brilliant! Thanks!
I'm very happy to see you back in the shop Dale. Lots of detail and a good explanation of the task. A day without Sweger is a day without sunshine. Best wishes, Dean.
Glad to see you up and around, I (and all of us out here) worried there may have been complications. Take your time healing, we'll all still be here! Great info on the Suzuki crankshaft, now I know why their oiling systems had a reputation for being so robust!
Dale's back! Hope you continue recovering. Back in the olden days I used to grind compressor crankshaft main bearing dia's between centers. If one of the centers (what you are calling dimples) was buggered up, it could create all kinds of problems. Generally those shafts would get reworked so that they were suitable for grinding. I wonder if it would be practical rework the centers on a crank if needed. I think you would have to split the crank, mount the bad half in a four jaw chuck, indicate it in and then single point turn a new center. Or you might be able to just use a center drill in the tailstock.
Thank you, yes, I have reworked many with a single point tool on the lathe. But one this bad is just not repairable in my opinion, just too much metal misplaced. Using a center drill is really touchy, if it's not too bad you might be able to get by. I have done it but if it moves around at all you know it will not be accurate.
Glad you are feeling better! Another great "informative" video that is spot on for my vintage bike i am rebuilding! You're the best! Happy Thanksgiving!!
So good to see you back in the shop! Sorry to hear about the post surgery complications. Great info on the puller usage and the explanation of the oiling system for the crank. Happy Thanksgiving and looking forward to the next video!
Good to see you back and all good. Hoping that the build up on the GT80 will be coming along soon. I've recently picked up a YZ80 and a heap of parts from a guy down near Canberra, so I'll be applying all your tips once I get all the crankcases cleaned up. Enjoying your content always from Sydney 🇦🇺.
Glad to hear you are feeling better Dale. Good info and thank you for sharing. I have a 72 TS185 and I’ll know what to look for if I ever need to rebuild. Thankfully that bike is a good runner.
Glad to see your on the mend and back in the shop. It's been hell trying to put out content to keep people entertained while you've been gone 🤪🤪🤪. I highly doubt I can keep up and now I got Dean I have to keep amused 🤦♀ Great video as always. Can't wait til your next video and I need to rewatch your CB175 video.
Man, I appreciate your super effort Greg, the only thing I did was the bore on the CB175 that Cain sent me. I can't remember how much he showed of the assembly on his channel, yes that Dean is a good egg. He helps me a lot, he has that engineers mind.
Great information Dale! I lucked out with my 185's so far. Both are running really good since the rebuilds. The '72 185 and 125 are nearly complete.Sorry to hear about the post surgery infection. Seems like the quality of healthcare has been compromised everywhere. Take care of yourself and have a Happy Thanksgiving.
Good video, thanks. Pleased to see you're on the mend. I use the ball bearing mod on my puller, but being lazy just drilled the(flat) bolt end and fitted the ball, not too tightly, and works a treat. Had a 185 in the 80s but couldn't get on with its power band - chimed in sharply but just before the local speed limit 30mph - so a little awkward in traffic😲 otherwise nice machine. Like the 'positive' oil feed to the crankpin, Itom 50 (I started racing on 54yrs ago) had similar mod, but was a machined part of each crankweb with drilling thru' to the pin. Cheers.👍
Thanks so much Dale. Good to hear you are on the mend. I've got the TF185 as well! Ya, TF, F stands for farm. Basically the same Bike just geared and ported for more torque. Not sure if I'm going to keep it yet, but appreciate the tip on the puller, that's something I would never have considered. Take care. Go at your own pace. Quality beats quantity. 👍
Thanks Gigi, think I heading in the right direction now. Yes, I have heard you talk about the TF bikes, as far as I know they were not offered in the US. Ours were the TS and TC, and later I think the DS, and the PE. Wow so many, makes you wonder why.
Yes, I have machined many stainless sleeves for these bikes, but it does cost time and money to do them, in this case it would add about 100.00 to the rebuild.
Oh, I forgot to ask. Would you be willing to do a video explaining how to use a dial bore gauge? A: You're an Awesome teacher. B: I need to better understand it. C: You can do it while sitting at your bench (or drag the couch to the garage for the proper setting 🙂).
I will see what I can come up with. Just think of the dial bore gauge as a comparator. You set it up with the size you want, do that with a caliper or a micrometer. Then compare that size to what the reading on the bore gauge actually is.
@@montana2strokeracer Well there goes that...I told you I don't have an engineers mind!!! Well I got one for this CB175, but DUH it's a 2" to 6", and the max bore on this bike is a hair over 2", like 2.054 for a standard bore. With my snap gauges and a micrometer, I'm reading 2.043 (or something like that), STILL under max though 🤪🤪
@gregslair4278 hey Greg, a quick Google search shows they have a 2.0 inch bore. So if you are reading 2.043 then it is .043 over standard. I think the standard piston to cylinder clearance is .0005 to .0015.
@@montana2strokeracer I'll txt you a pic from the manual. 52 to 52.01mm repair if over 52.1. Mine is right there @ 52.07 and I haven't cleaned them yet. I'm reading about 52.3 at the top of the bore, 52.07 at the middle, 51.87 at the bottom. I'll clean up a bit and remeasure. Txted you some pics from the Honda Manual.
Good to see you back. Take it easy and get better. What do you think about having the bearing surfaces flame sprayed if a replacement crank is "unobtanium?" I've seen ABOM79 and Cutting Edge Engineering both use this on larger shafts to recover bearing surfaces. Have you ever seen it done on smaller shafts like these?
Yes, using the Castolin Eutectic system is indeed a quality repair for sealing surfaces and ball bearing mounting. I have the Rototec gun to apply this surface repair, but I find the powders and primers to be a much more expensive repair than to just cut the shaft down and install a stainless-steel sleeve. I have several videos showing the process of repairing using a sleeve. Those Eutectic powders are so very expensive.
Hey Dale, I'm glad you're feeling better, I hope you get back to 100%.
Thanks Larry
It’s nice to see you in the workshop, Dale. There’s nothing more important to someone than their health, so take things steady and you’ll soon be back to full speed.
Thanks Ian, I'm so ready to be done with all this medical stuff
Happy to see feeling better and back at it! Missed the videos!
Get well quickly mate. Good to see you back on air.
All good wishes, Peter.
Thanks Peter.
Glad you are feeling better no need to apologize.
Good to see that you're doing better and have returned to the shop. Great information on the proper disassembly of a crankshaft. Using the right tool is invaluable for part preservation.
Thanks Doug, yes sir the right tool for the right job so they say. Bottom line is cause no damage.
Wow, that's a lot of info to learn for what at first glance appears simple, but isn't. No wonder why so many cranks are messed up. The bearing removal was brilliant! Thanks!
Thanks Jim, its mostly just common since. But there is a lot to look for if shopping for a new crank.
Hey Dale, best wishes for a speedy recovery! Happy Thanksgiving! Always enjoy your videos! Thanks.
Thank you, have a great Thanksgiving also.
I'm very happy to see you back in the shop Dale. Lots of detail and a good explanation of the task. A day without Sweger is a day without sunshine.
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean, I'm healing up and hope to be 100 percent very soon.
@montana2strokeracer glad to hear it Dale. Take good care of yourself.
Glad to see you up and around, I (and all of us out here) worried there may have been complications. Take your time healing, we'll all still be here!
Great info on the Suzuki crankshaft, now I know why their oiling systems had a reputation for being so robust!
Thanks Wayne, yes, those Suzuki oiling systems are the best in my opinion.
Good to see you are back at it. Hospitals these days are a great place to pick up an infection.
Thanks Cliff, you are right my friend, think the infection came from the hospital. I hate going there for any reason.
Thanks Dale, I always learn a lot from you. Glad you're recovering well.
Dale's back! Hope you continue recovering. Back in the olden days I used to grind compressor crankshaft main bearing dia's between centers. If one of the centers (what you are calling dimples) was buggered up, it could create all kinds of problems. Generally those shafts would get reworked so that they were suitable for grinding. I wonder if it would be practical rework the centers on a crank if needed. I think you would have to split the crank, mount the bad half in a four jaw chuck, indicate it in and then single point turn a new center. Or you might be able to just use a center drill in the tailstock.
Thank you, yes, I have reworked many with a single point tool on the lathe. But one this bad is just not repairable in my opinion, just too much metal misplaced. Using a center drill is really touchy, if it's not too bad you might be able to get by. I have done it but if it moves around at all you know it will not be accurate.
Sending you healing prayers brother🙏
Thank you Robert
Glad you are feeling better! Another great "informative" video that is spot on for my vintage bike i am rebuilding! You're the best! Happy Thanksgiving!!
It’s great to see you back and doing well.
Great information on how to check a crankshaft.
Thank you Dale!!’😊
Thanks Don, I think I'm heading for a full recovery. Just takes more time than I want it to.
Your still doing a great job. happy to hear your feeling better.
Nice job brother.
Glad to see you on the mend Dale.
great to see you back dale great job as always keep up the great work
Hey Dale nice to see you back in the saddle brother 👍
Gee it's good to see you back man I missed ya!
So good to see you back in the shop! Sorry to hear about the post surgery complications. Great info on the puller usage and the explanation of the oiling system for the crank. Happy Thanksgiving and looking forward to the next video!
Thanks Pete, have a great Thanksgiving my friend.
Happy to see you back in the shop Dale. 😊
Good to be back to almost normal.
Glad to see you Dale , take care of yourself first !
Good to see you back and all good. Hoping that the build up on the GT80 will be coming along soon. I've recently picked up a YZ80 and a heap of parts from a guy down near Canberra, so I'll be applying all your tips once I get all the crankcases cleaned up. Enjoying your content always from Sydney 🇦🇺.
Hey Chris, yes I will be getting back on that project soon.
Glad to see back up and at it.
Thanks buddy
Great to see you back at it! Glad you’re feeling better!
Thanks Kyle
Always worth the wait Dale! Take it easy old Son.🙂
Thank you Steve.
welcome back Dale i was worried! you look great!
Glad to hear you are feeling better Dale. Good info and thank you for sharing. I have a 72 TS185 and I’ll know what to look for if I ever need to rebuild. Thankfully that bike is a good runner.
Thanks Matt, as long as it runs and doesn't make noise you are golden.
Glad to see your on the mend and back in the shop. It's been hell trying to put out content to keep people entertained while you've been gone 🤪🤪🤪. I highly doubt I can keep up and now I got Dean I have to keep amused 🤦♀ Great video as always. Can't wait til your next video and I need to rewatch your CB175 video.
Man, I appreciate your super effort Greg, the only thing I did was the bore on the CB175 that Cain sent me. I can't remember how much he showed of the assembly on his channel, yes that Dean is a good egg. He helps me a lot, he has that engineers mind.
@@montana2strokeracer Lol, I DO NOT have an engineers mind!!!
Great information Dale! I lucked out with my 185's so far. Both are running really good since the rebuilds. The '72 185 and 125 are nearly complete.Sorry to hear about the post surgery infection. Seems like the quality of healthcare has been compromised everywhere. Take care of yourself and have a Happy Thanksgiving.
Thanks David, yes, I worry about going to the hospital at all. Nice to hear your Suzuki's are nearing completion.
Good video, thanks. Pleased to see you're on the mend. I use the ball bearing mod on my puller, but being lazy just drilled the(flat) bolt end and fitted the ball, not too tightly, and works a treat. Had a 185 in the 80s but couldn't get on with its power band - chimed in sharply but just before the local speed limit 30mph - so a little awkward in traffic😲 otherwise nice machine. Like the 'positive' oil feed to the crankpin, Itom 50 (I started racing on 54yrs ago) had similar mod, but was a machined part of each crankweb with drilling thru' to the pin. Cheers.👍
Glad to see you back, Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family.
Thank You Dante, and the same to your family.
Good to see you on the mend. Take care of yourself. Love the videos!
Thanks Dennis
Thanks so much Dale. Good to hear you are on the mend. I've got the TF185 as well! Ya, TF, F stands for farm. Basically the same Bike just geared and ported for more torque. Not sure if I'm going to keep it yet, but appreciate the tip on the puller, that's something I would never have considered. Take care. Go at your own pace. Quality beats quantity. 👍
Thanks Gigi, think I heading in the right direction now. Yes, I have heard you talk about the TF bikes, as far as I know they were not offered in the US. Ours were the TS and TC, and later I think the DS, and the PE. Wow so many, makes you wonder why.
@@montana2strokeracer I'm not sure, maybe they were trying to feel out the market. Different strokes for different folks?
Hey Dale any chance you could machine a replacement shaft??
Yes, I have machined many stainless sleeves for these bikes, but it does cost time and money to do them, in this case it would add about 100.00 to the rebuild.
Oh, I forgot to ask. Would you be willing to do a video explaining how to use a dial bore gauge? A: You're an Awesome teacher. B: I need to better understand it. C: You can do it while sitting at your bench (or drag the couch to the garage for the proper setting 🙂).
I will see what I can come up with. Just think of the dial bore gauge as a comparator. You set it up with the size you want, do that with a caliper or a micrometer. Then compare that size to what the reading on the bore gauge actually is.
@@montana2strokeracer Well there goes that...I told you I don't have an engineers mind!!! Well I got one for this CB175, but DUH it's a 2" to 6", and the max bore on this bike is a hair over 2", like 2.054 for a standard bore. With my snap gauges and a micrometer, I'm reading 2.043 (or something like that), STILL under max though 🤪🤪
@gregslair4278 hey Greg, a quick Google search shows they have a 2.0 inch bore. So if you are reading 2.043 then it is .043 over standard. I think the standard piston to cylinder clearance is .0005 to .0015.
@@montana2strokeracer I'll txt you a pic from the manual. 52 to 52.01mm repair if over 52.1. Mine is right there @ 52.07 and I haven't cleaned them yet. I'm reading about 52.3 at the top of the bore, 52.07 at the middle, 51.87 at the bottom. I'll clean up a bit and remeasure. Txted you some pics from the Honda Manual.
Good to see you back. Take it easy and get better. What do you think about having the bearing surfaces flame sprayed if a replacement crank is "unobtanium?" I've seen ABOM79 and Cutting Edge Engineering both use this on larger shafts to recover bearing surfaces. Have you ever seen it done on smaller shafts like these?
Yes, using the Castolin Eutectic system is indeed a quality repair for sealing surfaces and ball bearing mounting. I have the Rototec gun to apply this surface repair, but I find the powders and primers to be a much more expensive repair than to just cut the shaft down and install a stainless-steel sleeve. I have several videos showing the process of repairing using a sleeve. Those Eutectic powders are so very expensive.
On the video where you were doing the vintage yamaha crank seal you used a puller to get to it, what puller was that?
The puller for pulling the seal is a homemade slide hammer, using a screw to pull the seal.
Here
heal up man.
glad your back ol buddy, get well soon...
Thanks James, I am glad to be feeling better.