Why does every You Tuber insist on talking about all the safety issues? Is this a safety video or a demonstration? The problem with making safety points is you don't cover them all in a demo video. Pick you subject and stick to it, nobody cares about all the other stuff.
Interesting perspective... I can't really imagine the sort of woodworking/carpentry video that would fit your myopic 'either/or' script parameters when, to anyone with any level of experience, understands that safety and technique are inseparably intertwined.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Pick a subject and stick to it. If not your going to loose viewers. We click on a video based on the title but get something else. Its wastes our time and flat out pisses us off. I didn't come here for a safety meeting, I was looking for a process.
@@petebusch9069 A true narcissist: by "We" you mean "you". Any viewer I "loose" (misspellings and kindergarten grammar in comments pisses ME off!") because I take a little time to talk about safety issues directly related to what's being taught, I don't want in the first place. As they say "don't let the door hit you on your way out", and think of me when you're sitting in ER some day when you realize that related safety talk isn't a waste of time.
I was happy how you explain that quick way to find the correct thickness to set the planer. Lowering it onto the wood until it engages. Then a little. Brilliant !!
I'm just now getting into woodworking and carpentry and I am learning VOLUMES from your content. Being new to the craft, your emphasis on safety is greatly appreciated.
Words don’t do justice to the knowledge you share on this channel! Every video is worth every second of time required watch it! Best investment on TH-cam!!
Great video - nice that you go unscripted without a bunch of "uhs" and "you knows" but you still catch the goofs and provide captioned corrections. And this is just brilliant content as well.
Thanks David! Truth be told, the absence of "uhs", "ummm"s and "you knows" is more a factor of the miracle of post production editing software than my abilities to perform in a non-distracting manner but I do appreciate your 'review' more than you know...
I’m one of the lucky ones that got a 6” planer, for $ 60.00 bucks at a yard sale! With new blades . Thanks 🙏 this was very help full! Ironworker Doug! Out.
Congrats, Doug... I first started using this back when I had a 6" jointer and think you'll be pleased/amazed at how simple it is to expand your jointer's capacity! Best, Matt
Genius, I have watched dozens of other vid's to supersize jointers but they all fall far short of your simple method. You are a master please keep the video's coming
Thanks Tom; I've always felt that part of 'mastery' is sifting through many options to dial in to the one that's most effective and efficient and then tuning that best option to optimize it for the task at hand. The Irish carpenter I learned much from in my formative years referred to it as 'getting a system' for a given job. Sounds like you're doing exactly that... hope you're able to do better work faster using this method next time you encounter over-width boards. Best, Matt
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives th-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Awesome idea! I had ruled out any jointers less than 12" because I didn't want to have a jointer that couldn't flatten a board that is less than the widest board I'd run into for my purposes. I was pretty much resigned to the idea that I'd have to get a 12" jointer/planer combo machine to get the most out of one machine and save some money. This video gives me all new reason to start reconsidering buying separate machines with smaller capacities. Very cool and extremely informative. Thank you sir:)
Good on you for thoughtful consideration of machinery choices Luis. My reasoning in choosing an 8" model is that no matter how big a jointer I got there would ALWAYS be a time when I needed the next size up. I developed this method back when I had a 6" jointer and frequently found myself working a bunch of material over 6" wide. It was more practical to upgrade the jointer than use this process for so much and so often; it might have been 30% of the time? Jumping up to 8" capacity means I only have to use this method like 2% of the time so the trade off is painless. With that in mind I'd think through what you expect the majority of your projects to be and choose something that's efficient for say 95% of your work and get the best quality machine you can afford for it. No need to get a 12" model that you need once a year. BTW I'd choose a 6" 'parallelogram' style jointer over an 8" model without that feature ANY day. Adjustment with a parallelogram style is SO much more efficient it would offset the wider capacity immediately. I highly recommend a helical head for any jointer as well... it increases performance dramatically and is well worth any extra cost if you can afford it. Best, Matt
So much for not going into deep details. But I am sure glad you did. Because I learned something new today that will save a lot of time. Thank you for sharing your talents and experience.
@@NextLevelCarpentry So true bud, but you're the one who lit the fire under this old guy to build one more home before the dirt nap. You and those box beams provided some answers on a home I think those would be a solution. Going to try my hand on it. Looking at the picture of this home, I think Box beams could be the solution of lower the cost from a Post and Beam look.
Excellent imparting of woodwork knowledge/experience, thank you. Where I am from, a lug is an insult. Going to grab a bottle from the top shelf some evening & take a shot every time you mention the aforementioned lug. 😆🍻 No power tools will be used. Respect.
Very Very cool use of the jig....that's what I am going to use...I have a 8-inch PM jointer and a 20" PM Planer...making a 10 inch wide walnut plank table...thank you
Thank you for this video!! I watched a different video that showed the same process ,but didn’t understand the process. Your video was very descriptive and I ‘got it’ after watching your video!!!
Thanks for letting me know Micah... I really try to convey processes clearly but it's easy to gloss over details important to viewers and not even realize it. Best, Matt
Good eye... I think you'll find it much quicker and more accurate than trying to measure or use the planer's depth gauge. Once you get used to it you'll realize the time savings you mention. Best, Matt
RnBergman: my reasoning is exactly like yours! I recommend getting the best 8" jointer you can afford and a helical cutterhead with rabbeting capability like the Byrd Shelix design... that's imperative if you plan to 'supersize' it. Also; unless the jointer has parallelogram adjustment capability you'll be frequently frustrated by slow depth of cut adjustments which you'll need a LOT for this type operation. In an act of shameless self-promotion I'd ask that if you happen to settle on a Powermatic PJ882 like you see in the video and don't buy it locally I'd sure appreciate it it you'd use this link: www.amazon.com/dp/B0007DHHEM/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ You get the same low online pricing and free shipping from Amazon plus they help support production of free videos here at Next Level Carpentry 😉😎 Work safely and enjoy! Best, Matt
You're the man. I have a mantel I'm building and the top is wider than my planer. Now I feel confident I can overcome my obstacle. Thanks for your time and ingenuity. God bless!
Excellent tip! Using the platen is much easier and quicker than double-side taping a spacer. I will never understand why people would hit the thumbs down button on a video like this. Simple, to the point and great information. Thank you!
Good idea. I only have a mounted 3.5" jointer and just got a planer so this tip will help me flatten bigger boards until I can afford a bigger jointer.
Just cool the way that works, isn't it Chris? Same process I went through starting out a ridiculously long time ago with a 4" delta machine. Best thing is you'll be better off in the long run learning to work through this adversity than you would starting out with a 8" or 12" machine... it may be some time before you believe me but I think someday you'll find it true. Best, Matt
Nicely explained. I been using the platen trick for years. Maybe we're related. Lol. The other trick I use for real wide stuff is with using a sled, some shims and hot glue, and feed the whole mess through the planer. It works great too.
Thanks for commenting, Hardnox, we must both be alums of The School of Hardnox! The 'other trick' you mention is definitely effective when and where this method falls short. I like to use a slab of LVL lumber for the sled you mention but will adopt the hot glue idea you've added... never thought of that! I end up using screws and small nails for the shims which never goes all that well. Best, Matt
How long and wide is your MDF sled? I really like the idea but am curious if it's stiff enough at 6' or 8' in length. Can't beat the smooth waxed surface for shims and hot melt though! Thanks for adding this to the discussion, Hardnox, I appreciate it and bet other viewers will too... Best, Matt
Thanks. My pleasure. These forums are wonderful for sharing information, and as it should be. I have 3 sleds made from one sheet of 3/4" MDF. I have 2 planers (12" & 24") My sleds are 11-7/8" wide by 3', 5', and 8' lengths and they remain flat and straight after many years. All are double ply (1-1/2"). I have no issue with 24" workpieces. I also use the sleds with my 19-38 Shopmaster drum sander using 40 grit paper when I'm in a hurry and have dull planer blades (and don't feel like changing/sharpening them). As you know I make heirloom furniture often using slabs. Often, I run a wide slab on my jointer, multiple times until flat, then attach it to the sled and run it through the sander or jointer. Heck, whatever works is my motto. WestphaliaWoodWorks.com Best regards, Peter
I'm with you on the 'whatever works' motto, Peter. I feel hypocritical sometimes doing a video demonstrating a technique of some sort and then going out to the shop and doing a similar process a different way because it's the the best method at the moment. From your sled inventory I can tell you have to manage a wide range of variables and getting too committed to any one method hobbles production. Best, Matt
Great tip thanks. I was just in the shop today working on a few cedar slabs that I need to get in order for a table and wondering if I could do something like this and then found your video. Gotta love TH-cam
Thank you Matt, excellent video! I’m receiving my first jointer tomorrow and (was) concerned with its 6” capacity! Keep the tips coming Matt, you seriously are appreciate!
You're most welcome... and FYI I used a 6" jointer for many years before upgrading to the 8" I have now. It was mostly for convenience rather than capability because there wasn't really anything I needed to do with a 6" that I couldn't, it's just that the 8" allows me to do it a bit faster and more efficiently. BTW I'd rather have a well-tuned and accurate 6" machine than an unreliable 8"... it's not what you got but how you use it that counts most😎 Enjoy that new toy... and work cautiously as you get to know it's capabilities and potential dangers? Best, Matt
Shows you're pushing the limits of what you have to work with which, to me, is always a good sign. It's not what you got that counts but how you use it Bryan! Best, Matt
Excellent video and technique! Another method is to joint all the boards to the capacity of your jointer and glue them together to the width of your planer. Rinse and repeat and there is no limit to the width of your panel. Maybe not as accurate but you’ll get there in the end.
Awesome tip I usually use a hand plane after which works great but after a inch or so like 9” - 9 1/2 it can take awhile definitely going to make this setup. Greatly appreciated take care my friend
You're totally welcome, Thom, hope you are able to get more done quicker with this method over the hand-plane technique. I've really pushed the limits of this method for the 'gnarly' boards I mentioned and am always pleased and amazed by what I'm able to get away with using it... as I'm sure you'll be. Best, Matt
Thank you for the video. Working on a project now with really wide boards and thinking about spending $10-15K more on bigger jointers and planers...NOT! I appreciate your tip. Liked and subscribed.
Thanks Todd... hope you find other videos from Next Level Carpentry help you learn to work through other common woodworking challenges as you develop your skillset. There's a fair amount of content here for use and maintenance of a thickness planer that you might find interesting and/or helpful. Best, Matt
Great video/videos! You make it look so easy using Plain (excuse the pun) sense - followed by the application. -Just spent an hour viewing your other videos...Looking forward to watching and learning from the rest! Job well done!..ken
Kind of off topic, but I just wanted to let you know what a great company Delta is. Our home was destroyed by an F-4 tornado in Southern Maryland 18 1/2 years ago. It was picked up in one piece and moved about 9 ft. When it came down, one corner of the house landed on my Delta Contractor saw. I sent pictures to Delta, and they called to tell me they were giving me a new table saw! I explained to them that I had already bought a new table saw, so they asked me if I needed anything else. I told them I had been thinking about an 8in. jointer. They sent me a brand new 8in. DJ-20, $1,650, to my temporary house, completely free of charge with no shipping!!! To say I was overwhelmed is an understatement!! They have a news letter and they told everyone what happened, and they titled the story "Delta Saves Lives" I use my beloved jointer every day and absolutely love it! Think about this story when you buy your next piece of equipment. By the way, I have been using your method of jointing wider boards for years, and it works flawlessly!
Great video Matt as I have a 6 inch Powermatic jointer and usually rip 8 inch boards to join. Very well done video which will save me a lot of time and money (not buying a larger jointer)!!
Not sure if you're out of the woods yet Michael... does your 6" Powermatic have the parallelogram adjustment mechanism? It's worth every penny... actually every $100 bill... extra that it costs. I'd sooner do with a 6" capacity WITH parallelogram than the 8" capacity without. I'm well aware I've just jeopardized a 'friend' by telling you this... sorry😬😁 Best, Matt
Buy as much jointer width as you can justify and afford, James... this will definitely help out but the more you start with, the more you can do. BTW I started out with a 4" width Delta and, with sufficient determination, was able to do some pretty impressive projects. That said I'm not going to give up the 8" Powermatic without a fight! 😀😎 Best, Matt
Fortunately, today, you can get a 10 inch jointer/planer combo for around $550. In Europe, it's called Scheppach HMS1070; it's a re-branded chinese brand (probably "Wen"). If you're on a much tighter budget, you can search TH-cam on how to make a jointer out of a hand-held power planer. If you're choosing between a jointer and a planer, I think choosing the planer will be the best choice, especially because you can use it this way: th-cam.com/video/G8o4P-aM8UE/w-d-xo.html (or similar, because you can make improved variants)
68HC060 With next to no budget, I took a used hand power plane and built a frame and extension shoe. It gets the job done. I haven’t gotten around to building a guard for it, so I am very very careful around it.
No need for the patent… my grandfather invented the cocktail umbrella and the Swivel Straw. This was an informative video and will help with my Jet 42” jointer and Dewalt 735X. Thanks for the time.
Thanks for another great tip. I am looking at getting a Jet JJ-6HHDX 6" Jointer with helical head and a DeWalt DW735X Planer. Your tip will save me from ripping then re-gluing wider boards.
You're totally welcome, Mark! I think you'll be quite pleased with what you're able to accomplish with the setup you describe and using this method. You should be able to push the limits of this and flatten stuff 10" or so using a 6" jointer. As I mentioned I've done some pretty wide stuff by cantilevering off the 8" platten 4~5 inches. The wider the piece, the lighter the pass. You can imagine/visualize the physics as you approach 100% cantilever as the feed rollers want to equalize pressure and tend to tilt the workpiece but if you're paying attention and 'sneak up on it' you can push the limits and still get great results. If you get into some gnarly/wide stuff there's always the method Hardnox describes in his comment below. Best, Matt
You already accomplish some pretty cool projects (like the mantle you did awhile back) without a jointer, FCTV, I can imagine what you'll tackle and accomplish if/when you add a jointer to your tool arsenal! Thanks for the comment... much appreciated here! Best, Matt
Wow!! Thank you so much!! That is a brilliant work around. I only have a 6 inch jointer so this trick will be very useful as I have the same planer that you have.
I developed this process when I still had a 6" Delta machine Jerry... it will expand your capabilities considerably... have fun and work safely! Best, Matt
Thanks for your comment here Mr Dan! Some day I'll introduce you to the creative guy who's responsible for that great new Next Level Carpentry graphics update. Spoiler: his initials are D.S. 😁😎 Best, Matt
Thanks for another great tip. I knew there was a way to do that having read it sometime in the past, but could not remember the exact sequence. Now I know. Michael O’Brien Alabama, USA
Hey Michael... good to know this video refreshed your memory about a useful 'sequence'... I use this quite often and hope you find it helpful for projects you're doing too! Best, Matt
Matt, wonderful idea and explanation! Don’t fuss about “unscripted” vids...we are not trolls ready to pounce on every detail! We love your teaching! So, question, would you do a 2 min., vid on the drawer pulls on the storage center behind the DeWalt planer? THose look sweet!
Thanks for your tolerance and understanding, John, without it from you and other viewers Next Level Carpentry wouldn't stand a chance! I've never really considered doing a '2 minute video' but might just to see if I could and address your question at the same time. Are you referring to pulls in the wood faced drawers behind the planer or the white plastic 'drawers'? Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I'm guessing he meant the wood faced drawers, although those seem rather simple, although time-consuming. (at least the way I would do it) My guess would be a plunge router to remove the majority, then a different bit (dovetail or in the same category) to undercut the upper wall to give your fingers something to grasp. Personally, I would prefer mallet and chisels, but that is a lot of drawers and would take a lot longer! So, did I get close? :D Great video. Loved every minute!
@@kevingraves7431 I bet you're right. I'm pretty sure I made those with a 'drawer pull bit' in a router back in the day: www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2EFVS/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d&tag=aiponsite-20&linkCode=ic6&ascsubtag=amzn1.ideas.29WVINIJF4EUJ It would be a tricky operation but less so using a forstner bit to start the process. Glad to know you liked the video BTW thanks for watching... Best, Matt
Cant wait until you make a video about those run out stands you made! I keep getting hung up on my cheapo Harbor Freight rollers on my incredibly uneven driveway pushing a board through. Good stuff!
This is a great idea. One thing that is not obvious in your video is the pressure you put on the board when going through the jointer. It should be just enough to let the cutters work but not so much that you flex the board. If you push too hard you are replicating what a planer does.
That's right Richard... I hope that your clarification helps other viewers get the same results I do by avoiding the use of too much pressure while feeding the board through. Best, Matt
If I am right, there should be more of an effort or pressure on fence to keep a 90 (at least when on edge) than on cutterhead. I normally put maybe 20% pressure down and 30% pressure against fence and the other 50% is praying that I am feeding the stock in the right way and avoiding tearout LOL
For jointing, keep enough pressure against fence to keep board in contact, but not so much as to flex the board. Above might work for facing if the board is quite thick and the edge has been jointed. Mostly I try to rock the board on the jointer table a bit to find the high spots (if board is bowed up or twisted). Put the most pressure on the forward high spot and maintain the pressure all the way onto and along the outfield table. If bowed side is down, put pressure in middle of board. @@PatonMacD
I gotta say, and no disrespect, but i like the guy that does all the really fast work and dosent do all the talking better than the guy who talks all the time, he seems alot nicer and i personally think he takes a bit more pride in his appearance. A bit like Al Borland from tool time with tim Allen...... thats what you two guts remind me of.... "i dont think so tim" Lol keep up the great work, im totally new to woodworking and carpentry and am enjoying learning as muvh as i can, as i have a broken back so can no longer have a job, so i spend my days trying to absorbe as much information as possible.....
So sorry to hear of your back injury Adrian but admire your determination to continue learning about woodworking and carpentry. It's an interesting and challenging field of work with some aspects being less demanding physically so I hope it's fulfilling for you. I wish I could put as much time and effort into all Next Level Carpentry videos as I did this one but it's just not practical at this point so some are more watch-able than others. Best, Matt
*Sees MDF board* Slaps head. Why didn't I figure that out sooner? I rhought there was some way to widen the jointer, but then realized that it wouldn't work when I saw the jointer blade. So basically wider planer > wider jointer. in importance. Brilliant!
You're welcome, Dennis. It's a little surprising how well this works for how simple it is. If you start with shorter pieces to get the hang of it you'll be amazed with what you can get away with on more gnarly stuff... Best, Matt
For sure, Billey, glad to help. Sorry if I'm bringing up problems you didn't even know you had to solve though 🤔, no one needs that kind of stress in their life 😁 Best, Matt
First I thought "Why not do the hot glue and Shim trick and just use the planer?" Once I finished the video, I think I could see this method actually being faster. Very clever method!
Thanks for watching and commenting! It's good to have both methods in your repertoire to use interchangeably depending on characteristics of whatever boards you need to flatten. If this method works it's definitely faster for a stack of pieces but, for wider/longer pieces with more twist issues the shim & hot glue method might be a better option.
Slick process. I have a DeWalt 735 and a Delta 8" parallelogram jointer. Will attempt your method in near future. Have heard about the rabbit ting feature of the jointer. However have never seen the process. Any chance you might post a video on rabbiting with a jointer?
Thanks Bob... approach this method with your full attention and you'll do fine. As far as a dedicated rabbeting video I don't forsee it in the video line up but I actually cover its essentials in this video. What I'm doing is actually making a very wide rabbeted board where the rabbet itself is a full 8" wide x about 1/8" deep. It seems less like a rabbet because the 'lug' of wood on the edge of the board that doesn't get planed off is so narrow by comparison. The comment I make here: th-cam.com/video/vzmSjlXJ2fg/w-d-xo.html is a key part of the process because you need to cut the rabbet to full depth and width in ONE PASS if you don't remove the rabbeting shelf. I believe your Delta jointer has a removable ledge so it should be possible to remove the ledge for rabbets that require multiple passes since only when the ledge is removed will the board remain down flat on the infeed table after the first pass. This will make sense when you experiment. Re-watch the video starting about 3:00 or so keeping in mind the operation you're thinking about and how it differs from the result I'm after here. BTW while a jointer is fully capable of rabbeting operations I rarely use it for a number of reasons. First is that the cutting action of the ends of the jointer knives (or just the tip of the very last carbide cutter) cuts the shoulder of the rabbet which can leave it a bit ragged. 2nd is that boards any wider than 3" or so are hard to keep flat when ploughing a narrow but deep rabbet. For consistently accurate rabbeting I much prefer a dado blade in a tablesaw. Hope that helps... Best, Matt
Glad to know you got a laugh rather than adding a thumbs down for the comment... which would be totally understandable for the rather lame 'joke'. Thanks for the 'Liked' too! Best, Matt
I've heard that... I guess the fact that it's winter there and 90 hot humid degrees here is confirmation, right? Feel free to rub it in next January when you're spending a hot day at the beach and I'm out shoveling snow! Best, Matt
yeah we are midwinter, and our max temperature a couple of days back was 23C (73.4F) same temperature that the london marathon runners were surprised by... extreme heat to be sure :-)
Very simple and efficient method. Great video. (BTW, at one point in my career, I did actually own a 24" Oliver jointer! When I got tired, I could take a nap on top of it. When I moved and couldn't fit it into the next shop, the good-bye was tearful...)
Thanks for your comment and opinion... I can imagine the tears when being separated from a fine old Oliver machine... I feel your pain, brother! 'take a nap on top of it' LOL! Hope your ability to comment means you've made it through the weighty life events you mentioned last time we 'talked' and are back up and about? Best, Matt
I noticed the ground wire on your PVC dust collection system for your planer. It took several high voltage shocks before I got annoyed enough to do the same!
Thanks Daniel... hope this helps you out somewhere along the way. BTW Just yesterday I used this exact method to straighten about 100lf of 4/4 white oak in 10 1/4" width... works like a charm, if I do say... 😌Best, Matt
@@danieljohnson3328 Hope you find other worthwhile stuff in the Next Level Carpentry 'videos' archive that are helpful too. Just about every video here contains something I find useful (ie: profitable) in my residential custom design/build carpentry business. Thanks for your comments here! Best, Matt
@@danieljohnson3328 Well adjusted, well maintained equipment is key to success for this and with them this method rocks! Glad you gave it a shot and a follow up comment. Best, Matt
You're sure welcome Ron... this method is a secret weapon that allows me to be productive and profitable in a small shop. Hope you're able to use it for similar benefit😎
Great video! I'm blown away to see a Master Craftsman using a Dewalt 735! Seems the Powermatic would completely outshine the Dewalt. My questions: 1) Is the Dewalt your primary thickness planer, or just the one you had on hand for this video? 2) Since you can obviously afford the Powermatic platform, why did you choose the Dewalt? 3) Did you upgrade the Dewalt to a helical head? Cheers!
An observation I truly believe is that 'it's not what you got but how you use it that counts' Ben. For all day performance in a production setting I imagine a hefty Powermatic would 'completely outshine' my 735... but I've never done a job that I couldn't finish with impressive results and profitability without an oversized planer in the shop. The cocky side of me will bet you that I can get more out of a DeWalt in efficient, profitable productivity than many with a Powermatic or other industrial machine can. You are correct in that I can afford virtually any planer I choose and am still completely content and satisfied with my DeWalt. I see no need to 'upgrade' to a helical head either, although again, it's not a question of affordability. I drive a 1/2 ton short bed pickup and do a surprising amount of hauling with it even though I could easily (but unwillingly) afford a full sized bed and a trailer or two... another way to look at it is 'it's not how much you make but how much you keep' that counts. Not properly accounting for overhead likely causes many with a 'bigger is better' mindset to subsidize customers projects and end up failing in business... I appreciate your comment and hope this unexpected answer doesn't drive you away... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Drive me away?! No way. Hooked me to subscribe. Thank you for your candid response, and for sharing your knowledge in these videos. Cheers!
Nice video. I've seen others like this and you explained and demonstrated it well for newbies to understand. I do have a question, though...why are your spray cans upside down?
@@NextLevelCarpentry I dig it! I've always done the flip and spray to clear the nozzle, but hadn't considered storing them upside down. This makes perfect sense and I feel like I owe you some money for the future dollars you've just saved me lmao. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. As I’m sure you know, the static on that exhaust hose is killer, and it looks like you’ve got yours grounded. Can you briefly describe how you set that up? Thanks.
Pretty low-tech Steve. I just put a crimp-on terminal on one end of a piece of heavy stranded copper wire, attached it to a metal part on the back of the planer with a screw that's already there and then wrap the wire loosely around the PVC outlet pipe setup I have. Simple as that. BTW I now use anti-static flex hose from Air Handling Systems so a ground wire is no longer necessary... Best, Matt
Thanks Pieter... you might be one of those guys who doesn't need this method so much with that cool machine you have! I appreciate the comment all the same 😁 Best, Matt
Why does every You Tuber insist on talking about all the safety issues? Is this a safety video or a demonstration? The problem with making safety points is you don't cover them all in a demo video. Pick you subject and stick to it, nobody cares about all the other stuff.
Interesting perspective... I can't really imagine the sort of woodworking/carpentry video that would fit your myopic 'either/or' script parameters when, to anyone with any level of experience, understands that safety and technique are inseparably intertwined.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Pick a subject and stick to it. If not your going to loose viewers. We click on a video based on the title but get something else. Its wastes our time and flat out pisses us off. I didn't come here for a safety meeting, I was looking for a process.
@@petebusch9069 A true narcissist: by "We" you mean "you".
Any viewer I "loose" (misspellings and kindergarten grammar in comments pisses ME off!") because I take a little time to talk about safety issues directly related to what's being taught, I don't want in the first place. As they say "don't let the door hit you on your way out", and think of me when you're sitting in ER some day when you realize that related safety talk isn't a waste of time.
I was happy how you explain that quick way to find the correct thickness to set the planer. Lowering it onto the wood until it engages. Then a little. Brilliant !!
Can't be beat Michael... once you make it a habit you'll save a considerable amount of guessing and frustration... at least I did. 😎 Best, Matt
I'm just now getting into woodworking and carpentry and I am learning VOLUMES from your content. Being new to the craft, your emphasis on safety is greatly appreciated.
Words don’t do justice to the knowledge you share on this channel! Every video is worth every second of time required watch it! Best investment on TH-cam!!
Thanks for the glowing review Jon... I'll do my best to live up to it!
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry you always do!
Great video - nice that you go unscripted without a bunch of "uhs" and "you knows" but you still catch the goofs and provide captioned corrections. And this is just brilliant content as well.
Thanks David! Truth be told, the absence of "uhs", "ummm"s and "you knows" is more a factor of the miracle of post production editing software than my abilities to perform in a non-distracting manner but I do appreciate your 'review' more than you know...
I’m one of the lucky ones that got a 6” planer, for $ 60.00 bucks at a yard sale! With new blades . Thanks 🙏 this was very help full! Ironworker Doug! Out.
Congrats, Doug... I first started using this back when I had a 6" jointer and think you'll be pleased/amazed at how simple it is to expand your jointer's capacity! Best, Matt
Great educational video. Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate how to accommodate a board wider than your joiner.
Genius, I have watched dozens of other vid's to supersize jointers but they all fall far short of your simple method. You are a master please keep the video's coming
Thanks Tom; I've always felt that part of 'mastery' is sifting through many options to dial in to the one that's most effective and efficient and then tuning that best option to optimize it for the task at hand. The Irish carpenter I learned much from in my formative years referred to it as 'getting a system' for a given job. Sounds like you're doing exactly that... hope you're able to do better work faster using this method next time you encounter over-width boards. Best, Matt
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives th-cam.com/users/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Awesome idea! I had ruled out any jointers less than 12" because I didn't want to have a jointer that couldn't flatten a board that is less than the widest board I'd run into for my purposes. I was pretty much resigned to the idea that I'd have to get a 12" jointer/planer combo machine to get the most out of one machine and save some money. This video gives me all new reason to start reconsidering buying separate machines with smaller capacities. Very cool and extremely informative. Thank you sir:)
Good on you for thoughtful consideration of machinery choices Luis. My reasoning in choosing an 8" model is that no matter how big a jointer I got there would ALWAYS be a time when I needed the next size up. I developed this method back when I had a 6" jointer and frequently found myself working a bunch of material over 6" wide. It was more practical to upgrade the jointer than use this process for so much and so often; it might have been 30% of the time? Jumping up to 8" capacity means I only have to use this method like 2% of the time so the trade off is painless. With that in mind I'd think through what you expect the majority of your projects to be and choose something that's efficient for say 95% of your work and get the best quality machine you can afford for it. No need to get a 12" model that you need once a year. BTW I'd choose a 6" 'parallelogram' style jointer over an 8" model without that feature ANY day. Adjustment with a parallelogram style is SO much more efficient it would offset the wider capacity immediately. I highly recommend a helical head for any jointer as well... it increases performance dramatically and is well worth any extra cost if you can afford it. Best, Matt
So much for not going into deep details. But I am sure glad you did. Because I learned something new today that will save a lot of time. Thank you for sharing your talents and experience.
Yeah, so much for 'keeping the video short' too, right? Can't help myself 😏
You're welcome, Jesse! Best, Matt
You and the Finish Carpentry TV are my go to guys for inspiration, good to see you both admiring one an other's work.
Richard's an amazing guy, Ted... you'll not go wrong follow his experiences and advise! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry So true bud, but you're the one who lit the fire under this old guy to build one more home before the dirt nap. You and those box beams provided some answers on a home I think those would be a solution. Going to try my hand on it. Looking at the picture of this home, I think Box beams could be the solution of lower the cost from a Post and Beam look.
@@tedfritsch3340 you go, man!! Far better to wear out than to rust out, right?! 😎
Excellent imparting of woodwork knowledge/experience, thank you.
Where I am from, a lug is an insult.
Going to grab a bottle from the top shelf some evening & take a shot every time you mention the aforementioned lug. 😆🍻 No power tools will be used. Respect.
Platen Pending. Thumbs up earned sir.
A few genius ideas that will certainly save me a lot of cash. Thanks
Now why didn’t I think of that? How simple and helpful this video is. Thank you so much for taking the time.
Very Very cool use of the jig....that's what I am going to use...I have a 8-inch PM jointer and a 20" PM Planer...making a 10 inch wide walnut plank table...thank you
Should work like a charm, Jack... good luck and work safely! Best, Matt
Thank you for this video!! I watched a different video that showed the same process ,but didn’t understand the process. Your video was very descriptive and I ‘got it’ after watching your video!!!
Thanks for letting me know Micah... I really try to convey processes clearly but it's easy to gloss over details important to viewers and not even realize it.
Best, Matt
Excellent idea!! You just turned my new 6" Jet Jointer into a 12" jointer!!
It's like magic, right Greg? Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Yes it is Matt! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with those of us who are weekend warriors!
I never thought of turning on the planer and lowering it just until it catches the wood and pulls it through. Very good time saver.
Good eye... I think you'll find it much quicker and more accurate than trying to measure or use the planer's depth gauge. Once you get used to it you'll realize the time savings you mention. Best, Matt
Thank you for this video. I was stressing about the price of a 10”+ jointer. Most of what I need to flatten is
RnBergman: my reasoning is exactly like yours! I recommend getting the best 8" jointer you can afford and a helical cutterhead with rabbeting capability like the Byrd Shelix design... that's imperative if you plan to 'supersize' it. Also; unless the jointer has parallelogram adjustment capability you'll be frequently frustrated by slow depth of cut adjustments which you'll need a LOT for this type operation. In an act of shameless self-promotion I'd ask that if you happen to settle on a Powermatic PJ882 like you see in the video and don't buy it locally I'd sure appreciate it it you'd use this link: www.amazon.com/dp/B0007DHHEM/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ You get the same low online pricing and free shipping from Amazon plus they help support production of free videos here at Next Level Carpentry 😉😎
Work safely and enjoy! Best, Matt
I will point out Cutech makes helical jointers and planers that are priced in the US$600-800 range. They seem to get good reviews.
As a person new to planers and jointers, this is such a great idea, thanks for sharing !!
You're the man. I have a mantel I'm building and the top is wider than my planer. Now I feel confident I can overcome my obstacle. Thanks for your time and ingenuity. God bless!
Happens all the time Mark. Approach this with forethought and follow the systematic process and you should do well. Blessings backatcha! Best, Matt
Excellent tip! Using the platen is much easier and quicker than double-side taping a spacer. I will never understand why people would hit the thumbs down button on a video like this. Simple, to the point and great information. Thank you!
Wow, ttats great, i have a 24 inch sander, so my 10 inch jointer is now a 14 or even 16 onch jointer. Thank you.
Good idea. I only have a mounted 3.5" jointer and just got a planer so this tip will help me flatten bigger boards until I can afford a bigger jointer.
Just cool the way that works, isn't it Chris? Same process I went through starting out a ridiculously long time ago with a 4" delta machine. Best thing is you'll be better off in the long run learning to work through this adversity than you would starting out with a 8" or 12" machine... it may be some time before you believe me but I think someday you'll find it true. Best, Matt
Nicely explained. I been using the platen trick for years. Maybe we're related. Lol. The other trick I use for real wide stuff is with using a sled, some shims and hot glue, and feed the whole mess through the planer. It works great too.
Thanks for commenting, Hardnox, we must both be alums of The School of Hardnox! The 'other trick' you mention is definitely effective when and where this method falls short. I like to use a slab of LVL lumber for the sled you mention but will adopt the hot glue idea you've added... never thought of that! I end up using screws and small nails for the shims which never goes all that well. Best, Matt
Lol. Apparently.
A hunk of LVL is a great idea. Mine is two pieces of 3/4" MDF which is waxed. The shims pop right off with the wax.
How long and wide is your MDF sled? I really like the idea but am curious if it's stiff enough at 6' or 8' in length. Can't beat the smooth waxed surface for shims and hot melt though!
Thanks for adding this to the discussion, Hardnox, I appreciate it and bet other viewers will too... Best, Matt
Thanks. My pleasure. These forums are wonderful for sharing information, and as it should be. I have 3 sleds made from one sheet of 3/4" MDF. I have 2 planers (12" & 24") My sleds are 11-7/8" wide by 3', 5', and 8' lengths and they remain flat and straight after many years. All are double ply (1-1/2"). I have no issue with 24" workpieces. I also use the sleds with my 19-38 Shopmaster drum sander using 40 grit paper when I'm in a hurry and have dull planer blades (and don't feel like changing/sharpening them). As you know I make heirloom furniture often using slabs. Often, I run a wide slab on my jointer, multiple times until flat, then attach it to the sled and run it through the sander or jointer. Heck, whatever works is my motto. WestphaliaWoodWorks.com Best regards, Peter
I'm with you on the 'whatever works' motto, Peter. I feel hypocritical sometimes doing a video demonstrating a technique of some sort and then going out to the shop and doing a similar process a different way because it's the the best method at the moment. From your sled inventory I can tell you have to manage a wide range of variables and getting too committed to any one method hobbles production. Best, Matt
Great tip thanks. I was just in the shop today working on a few cedar slabs that I need to get in order for a table and wondering if I could do something like this and then found your video. Gotta love TH-cam
Sweet! Thanks for letting me know... lovin' The Tube! Best, Matt
Thank you Matt, excellent video! I’m receiving my first jointer tomorrow and (was) concerned with its 6” capacity! Keep the tips coming Matt, you seriously are appreciate!
You're most welcome... and FYI I used a 6" jointer for many years before upgrading to the 8" I have now. It was mostly for convenience rather than capability because there wasn't really anything I needed to do with a 6" that I couldn't, it's just that the 8" allows me to do it a bit faster and more efficiently. BTW I'd rather have a well-tuned and accurate 6" machine than an unreliable 8"... it's not what you got but how you use it that counts most😎 Enjoy that new toy... and work cautiously as you get to know it's capabilities and potential dangers? Best, Matt
Thanks so much, I just got a planer and a jointer and was trying to figure out how to do this. Great tip.
Those two machines will really up your game Shayne... have fun, work safe... and keep watching NLC videos? Best, Matt
i literally ran into this issue with my new jointer and wasnt sure what to do. appreciate this tip!!
Shows you're pushing the limits of what you have to work with which, to me, is always a good sign. It's not what you got that counts but how you use it Bryan! Best, Matt
Excellent video and technique! Another method is to joint all the boards to the capacity of your jointer and glue them together to the width of your planer. Rinse and repeat and there is no limit to the width of your panel. Maybe not as accurate but you’ll get there in the end.
Awesome tip I usually use a hand plane after which works great but after a inch or so like 9” - 9 1/2 it can take awhile definitely going to make this setup. Greatly appreciated take care my friend
You're totally welcome, Thom, hope you are able to get more done quicker with this method over the hand-plane technique. I've really pushed the limits of this method for the 'gnarly' boards I mentioned and am always pleased and amazed by what I'm able to get away with using it... as I'm sure you'll be. Best, Matt
Thank you for the video. Working on a project now with really wide boards and thinking about spending $10-15K more on bigger jointers and planers...NOT! I appreciate your tip. Liked and subscribed.
Wow as a new woodworker want to be this was a huge help thank you so much for posting
Thanks Todd... hope you find other videos from Next Level Carpentry help you learn to work through other common woodworking challenges as you develop your skillset. There's a fair amount of content here for use and maintenance of a thickness planer that you might find interesting and/or helpful. Best, Matt
Great video/videos! You make it look so easy using Plain (excuse the pun) sense - followed by the application. -Just spent an hour viewing your other videos...Looking forward to watching and learning from the rest! Job well done!..ken
Thanks Ken... much appreciated. Hope you'll subscribe if you've not already? Plenty more to come.... Best, Matt
Very straightforward and helpful. Thanks!
Kind of off topic, but I just wanted to let you know what a great company Delta is. Our home was destroyed by an F-4 tornado in Southern Maryland 18 1/2 years ago. It was picked up in one piece and moved about 9 ft. When it came down, one corner of the house landed on my Delta Contractor saw. I sent pictures to Delta, and they called to tell me they were giving me a new table saw! I explained to them that I had already bought a new table saw, so they asked me if I needed anything else. I told them I had been thinking about an 8in. jointer. They sent me a brand new 8in. DJ-20, $1,650, to my temporary house, completely free of charge with no shipping!!! To say I was overwhelmed is an understatement!! They have a news letter and they told everyone what happened, and they titled the story "Delta Saves Lives" I use my beloved jointer every day and absolutely love it! Think about this story when you buy your next piece of equipment. By the way, I have been using your method of jointing wider boards for years, and it works flawlessly!
Great video Matt as I have a 6 inch Powermatic jointer and usually rip 8 inch boards to join. Very well done video which will save me a lot of time and money (not buying a larger jointer)!!
Not sure if you're out of the woods yet Michael... does your 6" Powermatic have the parallelogram adjustment mechanism? It's worth every penny... actually every $100 bill... extra that it costs. I'd sooner do with a 6" capacity WITH parallelogram than the 8" capacity without. I'm well aware I've just jeopardized a 'friend' by telling you this... sorry😬😁 Best, Matt
Awesome idea.... common sense.. I love your channel. Thanks for all the information.
Glad you like Next Level Carpentry Dwight... you're quite welcome and thanks for commenting! Best, Matt
I appreciate this advice, I've been really avoiding buying a planer and jointer because the size of a jointer is expensive.
Buy as much jointer width as you can justify and afford, James... this will definitely help out but the more you start with, the more you can do. BTW I started out with a 4" width Delta and, with sufficient determination, was able to do some pretty impressive projects. That said I'm not going to give up the 8" Powermatic without a fight! 😀😎 Best, Matt
Fortunately, today, you can get a 10 inch jointer/planer combo for around $550. In Europe, it's called Scheppach HMS1070; it's a re-branded chinese brand (probably "Wen").
If you're on a much tighter budget, you can search TH-cam on how to make a jointer out of a hand-held power planer.
If you're choosing between a jointer and a planer, I think choosing the planer will be the best choice, especially because you can use it this way:
th-cam.com/video/G8o4P-aM8UE/w-d-xo.html
(or similar, because you can make improved variants)
68HC060 With next to no budget, I took a used hand power plane and built a frame and extension shoe. It gets the job done.
I haven’t gotten around to building a guard for it, so I am very very careful around it.
Great jig to get the job done!
A fantastic idea to flatten wider boards that your jointer can handle, thanks for sharing this.
No need for the patent… my grandfather invented the cocktail umbrella and the Swivel Straw. This was an informative video and will help with my Jet 42” jointer and Dewalt 735X. Thanks for the time.
Great tips,thanks for sharing ,cheers Colin.
Another Great tip Matt..one that will help me down the road...Take care stay safe!😉
Thanks for another great tip. I am looking at getting a Jet JJ-6HHDX 6" Jointer with helical head and a DeWalt DW735X Planer. Your tip will save me from ripping then re-gluing wider boards.
You're totally welcome, Mark! I think you'll be quite pleased with what you're able to accomplish with the setup you describe and using this method. You should be able to push the limits of this and flatten stuff 10" or so using a 6" jointer. As I mentioned I've done some pretty wide stuff by cantilevering off the 8" platten 4~5 inches. The wider the piece, the lighter the pass. You can imagine/visualize the physics as you approach 100% cantilever as the feed rollers want to equalize pressure and tend to tilt the workpiece but if you're paying attention and 'sneak up on it' you can push the limits and still get great results. If you get into some gnarly/wide stuff there's always the method Hardnox describes in his comment below. Best, Matt
Good thinking. I need to get a jointer. Maybe one day. haha.
You already accomplish some pretty cool projects (like the mantle you did awhile back) without a jointer, FCTV, I can imagine what you'll tackle and accomplish if/when you add a jointer to your tool arsenal! Thanks for the comment... much appreciated here! Best, Matt
Finish love your youtube picking up my first jointer an planer this weekend
Once again, as always. Another incredibly helpful tip and video.
Thanks for commenting, Jon! Best, Matt
Wow!! Thank you so much!! That is a brilliant work around. I only have a 6 inch jointer so this trick will be very useful as I have the same planer that you have.
I developed this process when I still had a 6" Delta machine Jerry... it will expand your capabilities considerably... have fun and work safely! Best, Matt
That is one sharp looking video thumbnail and nice work on the ad lib, Pro TH-camr and Master Carpenter!
Thanks for your comment here Mr Dan! Some day I'll introduce you to the creative guy who's responsible for that great new Next Level Carpentry graphics update. Spoiler: his initials are D.S. 😁😎 Best, Matt
Thanks for another great tip. I knew there was a way to do that having read it sometime in the past, but could not remember the exact sequence. Now I know.
Michael O’Brien
Alabama, USA
Hey Michael... good to know this video refreshed your memory about a useful 'sequence'... I use this quite often and hope you find it helpful for projects you're doing too! Best, Matt
This is a great idea! Thank you for sharing it with us
Now that's a slick trick ,i got it, Thanks
Acumen - a power to see what is not evident to the average mind. There you have it sir!
I'll try to live up to your compliment Jack... thank you! Best, Matt
Smart woodworker! Thank you sir!
Matt, wonderful idea and explanation! Don’t fuss about “unscripted” vids...we are not trolls ready to pounce on every detail! We love your teaching! So, question, would you do a 2 min., vid on the drawer pulls on the storage center behind the DeWalt planer? THose look sweet!
Thanks for your tolerance and understanding, John, without it from you and other viewers Next Level Carpentry wouldn't stand a chance!
I've never really considered doing a '2 minute video' but might just to see if I could and address your question at the same time. Are you referring to pulls in the wood faced drawers behind the planer or the white plastic 'drawers'?
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I'm guessing he meant the wood faced drawers, although those seem rather simple, although time-consuming. (at least the way I would do it)
My guess would be a plunge router to remove the majority, then a different bit (dovetail or in the same category) to undercut the upper wall to give your fingers something to grasp.
Personally, I would prefer mallet and chisels, but that is a lot of drawers and would take a lot longer!
So, did I get close?
:D
Great video. Loved every minute!
@@kevingraves7431 I bet you're right. I'm pretty sure I made those with a 'drawer pull bit' in a router back in the day: www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2EFVS/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d&tag=aiponsite-20&linkCode=ic6&ascsubtag=amzn1.ideas.29WVINIJF4EUJ It would be a tricky operation but less so using a forstner bit to start the process. Glad to know you liked the video BTW thanks for watching... Best, Matt
This was a solid idea man, thanks for sharing
Great Video! Thanks for the trick.
Thanks for the tip. Very useful info.
Hope you get to put this to use ESOT... Best, Matt
Cant wait until you make a video about those run out stands you made! I keep getting hung up on my cheapo Harbor Freight rollers on my incredibly uneven driveway pushing a board through. Good stuff!
Gracias, y muy bien explicado.
Great trick, thanks for sharing.
This is a great idea. One thing that is not obvious in your video is the pressure you put on the board when going through the jointer. It should be just enough to let the cutters work but not so much that you flex the board. If you push too hard you are replicating what a planer does.
That's right Richard... I hope that your clarification helps other viewers get the same results I do by avoiding the use of too much pressure while feeding the board through. Best, Matt
If I am right, there should be more of an effort or pressure on fence to keep a 90 (at least when on edge) than on cutterhead. I normally put maybe 20% pressure down and 30% pressure against fence and the other 50% is praying that I am feeding the stock in the right way and avoiding tearout LOL
For jointing, keep enough pressure against fence to keep board in contact, but not so much as to flex the board. Above might work for facing if the board is quite thick and the edge has been jointed.
Mostly I try to rock the board on the jointer table a bit to find the high spots (if board is bowed up or twisted). Put the most pressure on the forward high spot and maintain the pressure all the way onto and along the outfield table.
If bowed side is down, put pressure in middle of board.
@@PatonMacD
@@francismccabe3265 Pretty good narrative here... thanks! Best, Matt
I gotta say, and no disrespect, but i like the guy that does all the really fast work and dosent do all the talking better than the guy who talks all the time, he seems alot nicer and i personally think he takes a bit more pride in his appearance. A bit like Al Borland from tool time with tim Allen...... thats what you two guts remind me of.... "i dont think so tim"
Lol keep up the great work, im totally new to woodworking and carpentry and am enjoying learning as muvh as i can, as i have a broken back so can no longer have a job, so i spend my days trying to absorbe as much information as possible.....
So sorry to hear of your back injury Adrian but admire your determination to continue learning about woodworking and carpentry. It's an interesting and challenging field of work with some aspects being less demanding physically so I hope it's fulfilling for you. I wish I could put as much time and effort into all Next Level Carpentry videos as I did this one but it's just not practical at this point so some are more watch-able than others. Best, Matt
I love the caution sign on the jointer.
Very smart. Thanks
Works like a charm Brandt... you're welcome. Best, Matt
*Sees MDF board* Slaps head. Why didn't I figure that out sooner? I rhought there was some way to widen the jointer, but then realized that it wouldn't work when I saw the jointer blade. So basically wider planer > wider jointer. in importance. Brilliant!
Great Tip. Thank you so much
You betcha, Bryan!
Best, Matt
Thanks for the info Easy Peasy can't wait to try it
You're welcome, Dennis. It's a little surprising how well this works for how simple it is. If you start with shorter pieces to get the hang of it you'll be amazed with what you can get away with on more gnarly stuff... Best, Matt
Necessity is the mother of all inventions.
Thank you for sharing....
As I thought another problem solved! Thanks my friend.
For sure, Billey, glad to help. Sorry if I'm bringing up problems you didn't even know you had to solve though 🤔, no one needs that kind of stress in their life 😁 Best, Matt
I appreciate your problem solving ability!
Sweet idea , thanks for sharing this great idea
Brilliant!!!
Thanks! Best, Matt
First I thought "Why not do the hot glue and Shim trick and just use the planer?" Once I finished the video, I think I could see this method actually being faster. Very clever method!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
It's good to have both methods in your repertoire to use interchangeably depending on characteristics of whatever boards you need to flatten. If this method works it's definitely faster for a stack of pieces but, for wider/longer pieces with more twist issues the shim & hot glue method might be a better option.
Slick process. I have a DeWalt 735 and a Delta 8" parallelogram jointer. Will attempt your method in near future.
Have heard about the rabbit ting feature of the jointer. However have never seen the process. Any chance you might post a video on rabbiting with a jointer?
Thanks Bob... approach this method with your full attention and you'll do fine. As far as a dedicated rabbeting video I don't forsee it in the video line up but I actually cover its essentials in this video. What I'm doing is actually making a very wide rabbeted board where the rabbet itself is a full 8" wide x about 1/8" deep. It seems less like a rabbet because the 'lug' of wood on the edge of the board that doesn't get planed off is so narrow by comparison. The comment I make here: th-cam.com/video/vzmSjlXJ2fg/w-d-xo.html is a key part of the process because you need to cut the rabbet to full depth and width in ONE PASS if you don't remove the rabbeting shelf. I believe your Delta jointer has a removable ledge so it should be possible to remove the ledge for rabbets that require multiple passes since only when the ledge is removed will the board remain down flat on the infeed table after the first pass. This will make sense when you experiment. Re-watch the video starting about 3:00 or so keeping in mind the operation you're thinking about and how it differs from the result I'm after here. BTW while a jointer is fully capable of rabbeting operations I rarely use it for a number of reasons. First is that the cutting action of the ends of the jointer knives (or just the tip of the very last carbide cutter) cuts the shoulder of the rabbet which can leave it a bit ragged. 2nd is that boards any wider than 3" or so are hard to keep flat when ploughing a narrow but deep rabbet. For consistently accurate rabbeting I much prefer a dado blade in a tablesaw. Hope that helps... Best, Matt
Great idea. Thanks!
Thank you. Very useful.
Brilliant. Much respect to you.
Thanks Mike... I appreciate you watching, commenting... and respecting... I'll try not to disappoint! Best, Matt
Platen pending got a laugh! Liked
Glad to know you got a laugh rather than adding a thumbs down for the comment... which would be totally understandable for the rather lame 'joke'. Thanks for the 'Liked' too! Best, Matt
Us aussies usually get things upside down and back to front! Cheers mate
I've heard that... I guess the fact that it's winter there and 90 hot humid degrees here is confirmation, right? Feel free to rub it in next January when you're spending a hot day at the beach and I'm out shoveling snow! Best, Matt
yeah we are midwinter, and our max temperature a couple of days back was 23C (73.4F) same temperature that the london marathon runners were surprised by... extreme heat to be sure :-)
You're alright in my book Thanks
Platen Pending.....Sunday AM , you made me laugh!! Great idea!!!!
Glad you got a chuckle out of that Gary... I'm afraid it may cause nausea to those with less tolerance for such humor. Best, Matt
You are a clever man. Thanks
Very simple and efficient method. Great video. (BTW, at one point in my career, I did actually own a 24" Oliver jointer! When I got tired, I could take a nap on top of it. When I moved and couldn't fit it into the next shop, the good-bye was tearful...)
Thanks for your comment and opinion... I can imagine the tears when being separated from a fine old Oliver machine... I feel your pain, brother! 'take a nap on top of it' LOL! Hope your ability to comment means you've made it through the weighty life events you mentioned last time we 'talked' and are back up and about? Best, Matt
You are the best.
I try, Konstantin but guarantee there's times neither myself or others think so 🙄😎 Best, Matt
Outstanding video !!! Thank you, Bob
Yup, this is Exactly what i needed!
I noticed the ground wire on your PVC dust collection system for your planer. It took several high voltage shocks before I got annoyed enough to do the same!
Brilliant!
Thanks Daniel... hope this helps you out somewhere along the way. BTW Just yesterday I used this exact method to straighten about 100lf of 4/4 white oak in 10 1/4" width... works like a charm, if I do say... 😌Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry
That is awesome. Just something I never thought of. Tried it last night on a scrap board after watching. It does work amazing.
@@NextLevelCarpentry
Thank you and look forward to more videos.
@@danieljohnson3328 Hope you find other worthwhile stuff in the Next Level Carpentry 'videos' archive that are helpful too. Just about every video here contains something I find useful (ie: profitable) in my residential custom design/build carpentry business. Thanks for your comments here! Best, Matt
@@danieljohnson3328 Well adjusted, well maintained equipment is key to success for this and with them this method rocks! Glad you gave it a shot and a follow up comment. Best, Matt
Very nice idea , well done Matt .
Love it. Thank you sir.
You're sure welcome Ron... this method is a secret weapon that allows me to be productive and profitable in a small shop. Hope you're able to use it for similar benefit😎
Great video! I'm blown away to see a Master Craftsman using a Dewalt 735! Seems the Powermatic would completely outshine the Dewalt. My questions: 1) Is the Dewalt your primary thickness planer, or just the one you had on hand for this video? 2) Since you can obviously afford the Powermatic platform, why did you choose the Dewalt? 3) Did you upgrade the Dewalt to a helical head? Cheers!
An observation I truly believe is that 'it's not what you got but how you use it that counts' Ben. For all day performance in a production setting I imagine a hefty Powermatic would 'completely outshine' my 735... but I've never done a job that I couldn't finish with impressive results and profitability without an oversized planer in the shop. The cocky side of me will bet you that I can get more out of a DeWalt in efficient, profitable productivity than many with a Powermatic or other industrial machine can. You are correct in that I can afford virtually any planer I choose and am still completely content and satisfied with my DeWalt. I see no need to 'upgrade' to a helical head either, although again, it's not a question of affordability. I drive a 1/2 ton short bed pickup and do a surprising amount of hauling with it even though I could easily (but unwillingly) afford a full sized bed and a trailer or two... another way to look at it is 'it's not how much you make but how much you keep' that counts. Not properly accounting for overhead likely causes many with a 'bigger is better' mindset to subsidize customers projects and end up failing in business... I appreciate your comment and hope this unexpected answer doesn't drive you away... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Drive me away?! No way. Hooked me to subscribe. Thank you for your candid response, and for sharing your knowledge in these videos. Cheers!
@@Cactustone SAHWHEET! You're welcome... and thanks for subscribing. Much appreciated... and Happy New Year to you! Best, Matt
Another great tip! Thank you
Nice video. I've seen others like this and you explained and demonstrated it well for newbies to understand. I do have a question, though...why are your spray cans upside down?
th-cam.com/video/5Mo_6bD85_Y/w-d-xo.html
@@NextLevelCarpentry I dig it! I've always done the flip and spray to clear the nozzle, but hadn't considered storing them upside down. This makes perfect sense and I feel like I owe you some money for the future dollars you've just saved me lmao. Thanks!
Great video, very interesting
Thanks TopSaw! Best, Matt
Thanks for the video. As I’m sure you know, the static on that exhaust hose is killer, and it looks like you’ve got yours grounded. Can you briefly describe how you set that up? Thanks.
Pretty low-tech Steve. I just put a crimp-on terminal on one end of a piece of heavy stranded copper wire, attached it to a metal part on the back of the planer with a screw that's already there and then wrap the wire loosely around the PVC outlet pipe setup I have. Simple as that. BTW I now use anti-static flex hose from Air Handling Systems so a ground wire is no longer necessary...
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry thanks Matt.
@@stevemeigh5071 For sure... BTW if you check into anti static hose talk to their guy Kae... super helpful guy...
nice thinking
Thanks Pieter... you might be one of those guys who doesn't need this method so much with that cool machine you have! I appreciate the comment all the same 😁 Best, Matt
now i can sell my machine, lol
No way, Pieter, don't sell you machine! You're 'one of the lucky ones' who the rest of us need around to be jealous of 😁😎
hahaha great
That is fantastic! Thankyou!
Helpful. Thank you.