Put a cleat on the bottom trailing edge of the mdf or melamine or plywood... whatever you are using so it hooks on the infeed table and no need to glue it yo the workpiece being planed.
This is a great idea, been having this same problem...How do you keep your shop so clean, every video you make shows that the shop is clean and looks nice, I keep all my stuff organized but the saw dust is my problem, I have a dust collection system with everything connected but I still can't keep stuff clean.
Thanks! The shop isn’t as clean as it looks on camera! I’m terrible about not putting things away and stuff really starts to pile up! But once I complete a project I go through and put everything away and clean up the shop before starting the next project.
@@cds957I’ve been experimenting with it for a while. So far I really like it. I’ve also used Osmo and it is very similar. Before the hard wax oils I was using General Finishes Arm-R-Seal on everything. It’s great if you want a polyurethane finish.
Nice video but I strongly disagree with the blue tape, CA glue. Break open the piggy bank and buy some woodworking double sided tape. Eventually you will find that the blue tape let the CA glue bled through and it will be a mess. It might take many uses before it happens but it will. And when it does it's not fun. You can also use hot glue to stick the boards together but I find it a hassle to wait for the glue gun to heat up. I just discovered your channel and it only took 2 videos to get me to subscribe. Nice channel!
Thanks for the sub and comments! On the blue tape, I used double sided turners tape for a few years and absolutely hated it. It was sooo frustrating trying to peal the backing off! I usually had to use a razor blade to get under the backing. So when I learned of the blue tape and CA glue trick I jumped on it. If you know of a good brand of double sided tape that’s not so difficult to work with I’m willing to give it another shot!
@@biscuittreewoodworks actually there's a trick to it. I'm not sure if I can put it in words. I'll think about it and get back to you. It makes it really easy.
It's cheaper to buy double stick tape in the first place than wasting expensive CA glue/accelerator. Who the hell came up with this blue tape/ca glue and why it's so popular is beyond me.
Newbie here: Why not, without the guard of course, move the fence closer to the edge and the flip the board around to take care of the other two inches?
@@jwrbloom01 ok, this may be difficult to explain without visual aids but I’ll do my best. When you joint a board there are two reference points that matter. The first is the rough board to the in feed table. The second is the freshly jointed face to the out feed table. This is a smooth transition as you pass over the cutter head. If you then turn the board around and try to joint the other side you now have a third reference point that has no relation to the other two. It is a different rough surface to the in feed table. This transitions to a fourth reference that is out feed to newly surfaced board. These two out feed references do not exist in the same plane since they are derivative of separate in feed references.
Sometimes you really do need a bigger jointer. Everyone does these videos and uses tiny boards to demonstrate and that`s fine. Totally legit for small projects. show us ow this works for big stuff. I promise it gets pretty challenging when you`re trying to flatten a hunk of 8ft long, 11 inch wide hard maple at 2 inches thick. I just did it. Hella frustrating and time consuming.
You are right! If you have to flatten long boards you need a longer bed length. But, if the project doesn't have pieces that are 8ft long, then you can cut the boards down before jointing them and still use a smaller jointer. I can joint up to 8" wide on my 6" jointer, but anything wider and I have to use other methods or cut the material down more.
I'd just point out that the bigger jointer typically comes with longer in-feed and out-feed tables. This is important for longer boards. So sure, I can use my little benchtop 6" jointer on something like a short 8" board but the real challenge is on long boards.
If you're going to use the planer with the planer sled technique, couldn't you just secure the board to the sled, flatten one side, then remove it from the sled and flatten the other side without ever running it through the jointer? Seems like you'd have two flat parallel surfaces with that technique
Yes, if you have a sled that is as long as the board, you can secure the board so it doesn't move and flatten one side, then flip the board over and flatten the other side. It works, but it is a bit more of a hassle than running the board through the jointer first.
*Thanks for sharing,* 💥Excellent Trick. by for now ,your new friend Ken, God bless you.
I look forward to hear from you.
Thanks 👍
That blue tape & ca glue tip is really useful. Thank you!
That is a great tip! Glad you liked it!
Definitely a cool trick I learned too.
Put a cleat on the bottom trailing edge of the mdf or melamine or plywood... whatever you are using so it hooks on the infeed table and no need to glue it yo the workpiece being planed.
I have been lucky enough over my yrs to not have that problem. I recently bought a 6 inch and knew there was a way. Thank you. I miss my big one😊
👍
This is a great idea, been having this same problem...How do you keep your shop so clean, every video you make shows that the shop is clean and looks nice, I keep all my stuff organized but the saw dust is my problem, I have a dust collection system with everything connected but I still can't keep stuff clean.
Thanks! The shop isn’t as clean as it looks on camera! I’m terrible about not putting things away and stuff really starts to pile up! But once I complete a project I go through and put everything away and clean up the shop before starting the next project.
@@biscuittreewoodworks The Rubio finish that you applied on the jewelry box looks very nice, is that what you use on most of you projects?
@@cds957I’ve been experimenting with it for a while. So far I really like it. I’ve also used Osmo and it is very similar. Before the hard wax oils I was using General Finishes Arm-R-Seal on everything. It’s great if you want a polyurethane finish.
This is a great technique! Thanks for sharing this.
Glad it was helpful!
Never seen this technique before. Thanks for the idea
Works great! Thanks for watching!
Nice work, thanks for sharing.
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Great tip; thank you for the video!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much!!
No problem! Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video but I strongly disagree with the blue tape, CA glue.
Break open the piggy bank and buy some woodworking double sided tape. Eventually you will find that the blue tape let the CA glue bled through and it will be a mess. It might take many uses before it happens but it will. And when it does it's not fun.
You can also use hot glue to stick the boards together but I find it a hassle to wait for the glue gun to heat up.
I just discovered your channel and it only took 2 videos to get me to subscribe.
Nice channel!
Thanks for the sub and comments! On the blue tape, I used double sided turners tape for a few years and absolutely hated it. It was sooo frustrating trying to peal the backing off! I usually had to use a razor blade to get under the backing. So when I learned of the blue tape and CA glue trick I jumped on it. If you know of a good brand of double sided tape that’s not so difficult to work with I’m willing to give it another shot!
@@biscuittreewoodworks actually there's a trick to it. I'm not sure if I can put it in words. I'll think about it and get back to you. It makes it really easy.
It's cheaper to buy double stick tape in the first place than wasting expensive CA glue/accelerator. Who the hell came up with this blue tape/ca glue and why it's so popular is beyond me.
New woodworker here. Why not turn the board around and joint the side you couldn't get?
It won't get flattened that way. The board will sit at an angle and you will not get a flat face.
Newbie here: Why not, without the guard of course, move the fence closer to the edge and the flip the board around to take care of the other two inches?
If you do that the resulting face will not be coplanar with the face that was just made.
@@biscuittreewoodworks Because they're going in opposite directions, or because there is enough support on the part already passed through?
@@jwrbloom01 ok, this may be difficult to explain without visual aids but I’ll do my best. When you joint a board there are two reference points that matter. The first is the rough board to the in feed table. The second is the freshly jointed face to the out feed table. This is a smooth transition as you pass over the cutter head. If you then turn the board around and try to joint the other side you now have a third reference point that has no relation to the other two. It is a different rough surface to the in feed table. This transitions to a fourth reference that is out feed to newly surfaced board. These two out feed references do not exist in the same plane since they are derivative of separate in feed references.
Sometimes you really do need a bigger jointer. Everyone does these videos and uses tiny boards to demonstrate and that`s fine. Totally legit for small projects. show us ow this works for big stuff. I promise it gets pretty challenging when you`re trying to flatten a hunk of 8ft long, 11 inch wide hard maple at 2 inches thick. I just did it. Hella frustrating and time consuming.
You are right! If you have to flatten long boards you need a longer bed length. But, if the project doesn't have pieces that are 8ft long, then you can cut the boards down before jointing them and still use a smaller jointer. I can joint up to 8" wide on my 6" jointer, but anything wider and I have to use other methods or cut the material down more.
Consider though that a skilled handtool woodworker can plane any size board with a 24" handplane and get it perfectly flat. Weird but true
Thanks.
👍
I'd just point out that the bigger jointer typically comes with longer in-feed and out-feed tables. This is important for longer boards.
So sure, I can use my little benchtop 6" jointer on something like a short 8" board but the real challenge is on long boards.
Yes, you are 100% correct! Bed length is very important if you want to joint longer boards. You need that additional reference surface.
Just use doublestick tape!!
If you know a good double sided tape that works well and won't cause me to rip my hair out trying to get the backer off please let me know!
@@biscuittreewoodworks Sure, GolfWorks double sided grip tape. Use it all the time, no problem
@@larrybud Interesting, a golf club tape. I've used double sided turner's tape and it's horrible. I'll give this a try. Thanks!
@@biscuittreewoodworks Did this tape work ??
I look forward to hear from you bye for now your new friend Ken.
@@HomeImProveMentHowI haven’t tried that tape yet. I got some SpecTape that works well though.
If you're going to use the planer with the planer sled technique, couldn't you just secure the board to the sled, flatten one side, then remove it from the sled and flatten the other side without ever running it through the jointer? Seems like you'd have two flat parallel surfaces with that technique
Yes, if you have a sled that is as long as the board, you can secure the board so it doesn't move and flatten one side, then flip the board over and flatten the other side. It works, but it is a bit more of a hassle than running the board through the jointer first.