I spent a week trying to figure this out. I live in mountain jungle of Chiapas Mexico and I am very lucky this failure did not happen in the middle of nowhere. It is the same symptom as a fuel pump failure and relay failure. Thanks you very, very much!!!
I'm glad you found this video and it helped you out. Yeah the crank Shaft position sensor code many times does not even show up. I carry a code reader with me all the time including many other other parts that could fail on the trail just in case.
@@martinbuilt Thanks again, by the way a cracked intake manifold hose made it even more difficult to detect the problem. I may have cracked it during my hose checking. I purposely use a 1995 4.0 engine system so I don't need a reader I do it by using the ignition key to get the computer codes.
Thanks for the video, really helped me verify a problem "fingers crossed" and the extra long extension is key. I also took of my front drive shaft and it gave me some extra room!
Thank you Martin... My Son and I have been fighting this issue for a while. We had other crazy codes that just confused us. Finally put in shop for diagnostic's they narrowed it down and only wanted 600 to do the job. Funny but not funny our poor boy shop wanted much less. Thanks again and have a blessed day. 8 -2-2023 Barry and Jeffrey "Colorado"
Martin you have by far the best most informative videos out there thanks so much for all your help. I’ve used your videos for guidance for over a year now on my 97 XJ.
Phenomenal Video...now I know the REAL reason so many XJ owners lift their rides! lol Is even less room on a stock 96 XJ, lol But this vid truly helped me understand what I was doing that I could barely see! Props ! PS..... WARNING! Do NOT drop either of the bolts in the holein the bellhousing the sensor goes into!
Just replaced mine as you did along with your exact method. Was a SOB for me but got it lol. I went 4wheeling up to the top of Mt Siegel at 9500' elevation near Minden, NV and literally when I reached the top and stopped, the Jeep died. I couldn't believe it. Thankfully 10 minutes later it fired again and I went home and replaced it as I have two CPS's on hand. Thank you sir for your video and have subscribed.
Helpful tip . If you're experiencing the bolts falling out of the socket when trying to install the new sensor , put a piece of paper towel or a piece of tape over the opening of the 11mm socket. This will snug up the bolt and keep it from falling out of the socket when trying to alien it . Works great for any bolt that's in a position to jst fall out or get lost in the engine compartment. Example, some bolts that hold down the distributor cap don't always stay with the cap when you're trying to unbolt the cap. The bolt will just fall into the Netherworld of forever lost bolts . Use anything thin paperlike that will snug up the bolt to stay in the socket.
Thanks, u saved me so much time, heartache, & pain going down a road of parts..... I watched, bought extensions & part, from start to finish it took me 10 minutes. Great tutorial. Mine had the OG sensor, now at 243,000 miles.
Very helpful vid. My Jeep kept cutting out and as you say, "the tac went to zero". I originally thought it was a fuel line issue, but it cuts off INSTANTLY
Great video and well documented just might add to be VERY careful that neither of the bolts when loose happen to fall into the hole where the CPS fits, its easily done, some models have a plastic cover that prevents this. Sometimes its missing, mine was and before I realized I had one of the mounting bolts fall through the hole into the bell housing. Had to take the bottom access cover off and use a long magnet to retrieve it. Mechanics tip is to use petroleum jelly so it sticks in the socket especially when putting new one in. However once all connected started immediately, used similar long extension and a ratchet.
This literally happened to me today lol. Had to take the bottoms cover off as well and use a magnet stick to get it out. But good tip using the petroleum jelly👍🏼
Oh man, I wish I had seen this comment first. I just dropped mine in there and spent like 20 minutes looking around for it. I had no idea that hole was there.
Great Video. Just what I needed to gain some confidence in doing it myself. I’m a little older so getting in and out of those spaces are tough but this vid made it look relatively easy to do with a little patience. Thanks Buddy for great video….
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. I get the whole older thing I can't wait to get a 4 post and 2 posts lift installed in my new shop.
I have done this on a 2000 XJ. Took a little longer than this video shows (mine isn't as clean), but process was the same a lot of extensions and wobble socket. I had a intermittent failure as described but did not get the code right away. dropped the bolts a couple of times but this is exactly how it works. I now also cay a crank and cam position sensor both in ba of essentials. Both of these things will kill your motor dead and no work around. Heer is my best pro tip. DO NOT buy the cheap knock off no matter how tempting. Pony up the $100 bucks and only do this job once !!!!!! Another tool for those that don't have lift kit. You will need a jack and good jack stands to fit under there. Thanks for all of the great content, really enjoy this chanel.
I've been chasing the same problem for weeks on my 99. Replacing sensors after sensors that mechanics recommend. My XJ has never thrown a code. I'm definitely going to try this sensor next.
Hi Martin there is small plastic plate to cover the hole which is in front of the sensor . . I do have Jeep Cherokee and it has one for I already changed the sensor . It is great video you explained every think . Ghassan
Martin as always thank you so much for your wealth of info. For the first time since owning it my wj left me stranded for a couple mins on my way home tonight... tach dropped and felt like misfiring, pulled over and restarted after a min and drove fine. p0320 code, guess its safe to say ill be doing this sensor tomorrow
Just successfully replaced the CPS on my '99 Cherokee. I had about 1.5-2' of extension from the ratchet up. I used a piece of tape to hold onto the screws as I was threading them back in. Place the tape over the socket sticky side facing out and push the bolt into the socket. This should hold it well enough for you to get the thread started. I had to disconnect the front drive shaft to get my arm up in there, but I was very close to being able to do this job without removing it so probably will vary person to person. I have an OBD II bluetooth scanner tool which was giving me the code P1391. I actually had to turn the engine off with the ignition on to clear the code. I tried clearing the code a few times with the engine running and it wouldn't clear. Great video! Thank you!
Hi there , can you cut a little hatch on the side of the bell and have an access port there as on the WJ's to reach the sensor easily if on the road or just to make it easier to do the repairs? The sensor was totally diff on my 2002 WJ 4l straight with a single bolt holding it .
Thank you. No rust here in southern Nevada. That makes it a lot easier to work on these vehicles. The hood shocks were one of the only things that the previous owner had installed that I really liked.
Im impressed at how easy you made that look. I dont have anywhere near that amount of room down there! Also, it's worth every penny to go with an oem part. About $140ish from the dealer, $80ish from rock auto.
thank you.. great video.. helped so much.. had same problem with 97 cherokee i just bought for my daughter with 101k actual miles on it.. this video made it really simple to change! great great camera work also!!!
Great video on a part which can cause such problems. I dropped one of the bolts in the bell housing and then to top it off the part I got from a well known company had a different plug on it and couldn’t work. Only a genuine Mopar part will be the best option.
Thank you Martin and wow finally no more searching for a needle in a hay stack. Great video. My jeep is a 1998 and I cherish it. That was the code I had and exactly what you said was happening to me . Cheers
Hey, my name is mark watching your video. I'm all on Jeep grand Cherokee 2001. hundred and sixty thousand miles Cam sensor I think I replaced through place to camp. The crank sensor 320II guess that code came back up so I replaced the one on the top. I guess, but you're replacing the crank sensor thank you.❤
I like the way you cut thru all the bull crap with your videos .sure makes that" pain in the ass job of cps replacement" a bit easier to understand. Thanks
Excellent how-to! Exactly what I need to know, no extraneous BS. How well does that 'cabin air intake' work for ya...never seen that before! I'd bet it's better than one of those snorkels, but not as showy. EDIT: Just saw your video on that intake...I originally thought you were actually pulling air from INSIDE the cabin.
I'm having an issue where when warm my oil pressure goes to about zero at a stop or idle, the red check gauges light comes on, and the motor dies. It doesn't like to start until cooled down a bit. The check engine light has come on briefly but went out (no way to check it). 295k miles and other problems, lol.
i read some of the comments i also taught it was a fuel issue im gonna do that in my 92 jeep cherokee thanks good video not one of those mambo jajambo shit from el paso texas thanks
If it was there before you started it is most likely falling down inside the bellhousing remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing to retrieve it.
I am having a very similar problem with my 97 tj and from this video I found the wire cover leading to the cps had been resting against the block and had melted to the wire. It is only short circuiting when it's very hot outside. This probably solved my problem.
i had a local shop screw up mine. so next time i did mine. i located the location next to gas pedal right next to the carpeted hump next to the shifter, cut a small hole with a drill bit ,go under and located where bit came out. then using a large hole saw in a drill cut a larger hole,then using sheet metal snips made the hole bigger. now with a light you can see everything and even touch it with your hands. use sheet metal and screws to patch hole pull carpet back into place .mine is a 1988 cherokee this made life sooooo much better .jeep should have done this. also use a cardboard business card to space the sensor so it doesnt scape
How did the local shop screw this up? I called one they told me 85$ to install the Mopar CPS I got from the Jeep dealership. But... I'm afraid they might drop a bolt in the bell housing or something stupid..
they ripped off the cover and threw it away bolts where not tight. like i said when i wrote my reply. i located where it was located next to the drive shaft hump next to the gas pedal .drilled a small hole after pulling carpet back then took a metal hole saw and cut a hole and then enlarged the hole and now i could see and put my hands on the sensor , put a sheet metal patch to cover hole then put carpet back in place. it was a 1988 jep cherokee that i bought new@@foxmulder7616
hello again .. will have a video explaining the full time light is activated when in reality it is not activated .. it does not size the tire that is why
Just did my 2002 TJ 4.0 Manual Transmission. The connection for my crankshaft position sensor is on the passenger side of the vehicle down near the oil pressure sensor. After I completed the job I wondered if I had jacked up the frame slightly and put jackstands under the frame rails (NOT the axles), if that would give me a little more clearance on top of the transmission. Additionally, there is a rubber boot that is supposed to surround the sensor. It was missing on my 275,000 mile vehicle, but I’m going to order and install it within the next week or so. I think contamination from the open hole probably shortened the life of the sensor I replaced. Also, I used an NGK/NTK sensor which is the only other brand, other than Mopar, that I’ll use. Time will tell!
Big help…thanks. Idle was surging from 600 to 1100. Bolts on my ‘97 wrangler 4.0 were 7/16 instead of 11mm. Was able to break loose top bolt from above with box end wrench.
Thank you, yeah, the big tires and lift do help when it comes to working on the underside of the Jeep but not so much when working under the hood. Then it's time to grab the step stool.
what do you think about bloking the bell housing hole with a rag or something to avoid possible loss of the bolt down the opening? Just fearful of my future attempt!
Thank you, Ken. I appreciate that. Yeah, you just gotta love the vehicles that are from the Southwest, not a speck rust. I'm glad you found this video helpful.
Is the same for 2001 xj? I read some people finished the entire job in 10 minutes watching this video. I am one hour in and yet to locate either end of the sensor from top or bottom.
Grateful for the insight. Though I did get the garage to change the CPS. First problem I have had with my 4L petrol 2002, as I only drive it sparingly here in London (but carry bricks, cement and stuff!) It's only done 67000. It stopped 5x the last 28 miles, started up again each time after a few attempts. Hope it will see me through now on my (83+) last run without having to get anything new. Battered, but best car I have had!
@@martinbuilt Unfortunately, the replacement of the CPS did not change the situation. The car occasionally, and not long after starting, just dies out (though it has run in between incidents for 30 miles or so without doing it at all) , it has happened at least 6+ times in the last 100 miles. I can also feel "voids" when I drive it. Often it just requires two turns of the ignition to get going again but on two occasion it required multiple attempts, I thought I was draining the battery! then the engine revs roar ahead only to drop and die down quickly unless you catch them mid stream and sustain the middle level, and then it settles down within a couple of minutes. It will then run for miles and miles without any problem. I thought it might be a fuel contamination and thought that the petrol filter was under the bonnet but the garage tells me in this 2002 model, its in the tank, so I will take it in again and get them to drain it and see if this is the problem There were instances here in North London of contaminated petrol and "Morrison" one of the supermarkets had to compensate a number of drivers but "Tesco" where I got mine just before the problem started denied they had any such problem. The garage excluded it might be the coil, but then what do I know?
Great vid my 01 XJ sensor plug didn’t disconnect at the same location. Mine was don’t further closer to the end of the trans and tcase. Wonder if mines wrong
@@martinbuilt In the mornings my 88 Comanche with the Peugeot would always be hard to shift. I forced it into 2nd and it stalled and never restarted. I changed the fuel filter and pump and that wasn't it. It will start, putt-putt for 30 sec or so and then die. My best guess is the CPS, would you agree?
Ooh hermano, realmente me ha ayudado bastante tu video, no sé si entiendas el español pero te agradezco por explicar donde se encuentra el sensor y como reemplazarlo. Muchas gracias.
I have a very similar situation with my YJ however once it warms up it wil idle high and once I drive it and I pull in the the clutch the RPMs will hold at around 2300 and then idles again at around the same, I was told it was a vacuum leak and or a bad MAP sensor. Changed the map sensor couldn’t find any leaks, I’m almost certain it’s a bad CPS
@@martinbuilt got it. I already installed the new part, may have fixed it not sure yet, car stuck in garage with a broken door. If it’s not fixed I’ll give that a shot. Thanks
Having a little trouble locating the sensor and the connector for it under the hood of a JGC '02 with 4.0L straight six. Any tips would be much appreciated.
Thank you for watching. I checked out the links I see that the Mopar one is currently unavailable but even though it is unavailable all because you went through my link using that pathway I still get credit for anything you purchase from Amazon. Thank you for your support I really appreciate it.😎👍
@@martinbuilt I replaced with an autozone sensor and then it wouldn't start at all! put in the old one started first try. I ordered a Mopar one and hopefully that works to fix my stalling issue.
I have a person that has a 1997 that says it need a new fuel pump because it cuts out at 2k rmps wind if it only needs the part you replaced? I want an in line 6 how many miles is to many to consider for purchase? Thanks for the videos. People think I'm crazy wanting an old jeep how do I buy wright and prove them wrong?
@@rlchick5774 test the fuel pump psi before replacing the pump, that is a big job and it is much easier to replace the CPS. If you live in the southwest they stay rust-free.
I was skeptical that this would fix my jeep but it did ! Back on the road again definitely recommend trying this sensor before any other major repair , part is about 40$
Glad it worked out for you, Yeah this sensor can cause lots of problems and make you think other things are wrong with your Jeep especially if you're not getting any codes .
@@martinbuilt yeah my 98 gc no codes idling rough like low rpms at idle 200 to 600,kinda sounds like tractor. Stalled couple times,seems run better at 4000rpm.hard to start as well. Changed plugs,tested fuel pressure 50psi running. 45psi off & holds. Will try CPS Monday
@@calvingoodswimmer2944did it work i got a 2000 that's been shutting off no engine light but gave me crankshaft code when i had a feeling and did the ol turn 3 times ghetto code scanner trick ty mopar
Im doing a engine swap with my 01 wj 4.0. Should probably replace this sensor when i do so. Would tell me what sensors i should replace when doing an engine swap, i think the cps sensor for the 2ed generation grand cherokee is a bit more challenging than this due to a smaller hood and less room between the bell housing and firewall.
Hey. I have question? I have the P320 code. Im changing out tomorrow. Looks like a 15 min job. Did you by any chance have headlight flicker also. Hopefully I don't have another issue. With the wiring. I have 98 cherokee sport.
I have a 90 Cherokee and it has an electric motor and pump assembly for a break booster instead of a vacuum booster behind the master cylinder. I have found part number but the dealerships no longer make the part and the want $3,000 for it. I have looked on line and again can’t find it. What is you suggestion? Please
So would that help the issue of my 1995 jeep Cherokee xj stalling out and not starting till its cooled off? Been having the issue and even took off hood while trail riding still done that.
I have one question. How did you get your bolts to stay in your socket. Mine kept wanting to fallout every time I bumped it trying to get the extension up in there. Do you have a magnetic socket
It was probably the dirt that was packed on the bolt that made it easier for me you may want to try adding some grease to the socket and the bolt will stay in there.
Hi Martin! I just replaced my IAC because of rough idle and bad shifting and stalls. I was not getting any codes. Now after I put new IAC I'm getting a 1296 MAP code. I replaced these sensors 2 year's ago and getting same problem again. Why am I now getting a MAP code when I wasn't getting any code to start with until I changed the IAC??
@@martinbuilt I'll try that. In meantime it seem everytime I test drive, it gets a little better. Now it runs fine and only stalls when stopping. Seems the longer it runs the longer it takes to stalls, like it's trying to fix itself? The old IAC surprised me. It was totally clean but was almost hot. Another video said if you turn the key on you should feel a little vibration, I felt nothing! Should I disconnect the battery before removing the IAC plug? Procedure for reset codes?? Thank's Martin!✌️
What would happen if the sensor completely went out? Cause my xj went dead on the way home and the 30amp fuse keeps going out went i flip the key. I think my auto shut down relay turns off my pump if it’s not getting a good reading from the crank sensor. Please let me know what you think and thank you for the video
Great video.. 👍👍👍 So I have most likely a dumb question. Does the bolted side have an actual plug? Or does it just sit in the hole? I'm going to attempt to replace this, also the tps, and pickup coil/camshaft position sensor. She cranks but no start, and I got back OBD 1 codes in my 95 Grand Cherokee for camshaft position, throttle position, and crankshaft position. This is the most difficult replacement out of the 3 due to location, and putting the bolts back in without extensions. Just wondering if can it be swapped out, but not bolted back? Or would it just be a risk of having an issue. Again...might be a dumb question, but I haven't gotten the new one yet, but does it not have an actual plug on the bolted end and that's why it's bolted? Does it just rest there? Thanks
When driving my 2000 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, the number of revolutions per minute increased to 4,000 before shifting from second to third gear. Your average speed is 36-38 mph when you do this. What's the problem, given that I swapped out the tps sensor and did a full automatic gear overhaul? Which sensor is responsible for the kilometer / hour height?
No stupid music track, no stupid attempts at humor, no big background intro about your life. Just straight up great demo. THANK YOU!
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful thank you for watching.
For all youtubers out there. this is what we need to see when we are looking for help.
thank you Sir, for this great video. Best I have seen so far.
So nice of you.
So clear and to the point I like every video
Good lighting clear instruction
Very knowledgeable
@@martinbuiltu got video on actuator or vent door stuck I recharge my a/c.
I spent a week trying to figure this out. I live in mountain jungle of Chiapas Mexico and I am very lucky this failure did not happen in the middle of nowhere. It is the same symptom as a fuel pump failure and relay failure. Thanks you very, very much!!!
PS. I also spent hours looking for the right video, thanks again!
I'm glad you found this video and it helped you out. Yeah the crank Shaft position sensor code many times does not even show up. I carry a code reader with me all the time including many other other parts that could fail on the trail just in case.
@@martinbuilt Thanks again, by the way a cracked intake manifold hose made it even more difficult to detect the problem. I may have cracked it during my hose checking. I purposely use a 1995 4.0 engine system so I don't need a reader I do it by using the ignition key to get the computer codes.
@@rain4rusty Good to hear that you got it running again.👍
Thanks for the video, really helped me verify a problem "fingers crossed" and the extra long extension is key. I also took of my front drive shaft and it gave me some extra room!
Thank you Martin... My Son and I have been fighting this issue for a while. We had other crazy codes that just confused us. Finally put in shop for diagnostic's they narrowed it down and only wanted 600 to do the job. Funny but not funny our poor boy shop wanted much less. Thanks again and have a blessed day. 8 -2-2023 Barry and Jeffrey "Colorado"
the most simplest and easiest to watch video on CPS in the internet ! very inforamtive. keep going, cheers mate !
Wow, thanks, glad it helped.
Martin you have by far the best most informative videos out there thanks so much for all your help. I’ve used your videos for guidance for over a year now on my 97 XJ.
Thank you I really appreciate that I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Phenomenal Video...now I know the REAL reason so many XJ owners lift their rides! lol Is even less room on a stock 96 XJ, lol But this vid truly helped me understand what I was doing that I could barely see! Props ! PS..... WARNING! Do NOT drop either of the bolts in the holein the bellhousing the sensor goes into!
Thank you . I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Just replaced mine as you did along with your exact method. Was a SOB for me but got it lol. I went 4wheeling up to the top of Mt Siegel at 9500' elevation near Minden, NV and literally when I reached the top and stopped, the Jeep died. I couldn't believe it. Thankfully 10 minutes later it fired again and I went home and replaced it as I have two CPS's on hand. Thank you sir for your video and have subscribed.
Glad to hear it fired back up but that what those CPS will do. Thank you for subscribing, I appreciate that.
You're welcome.
Great video , my 16 year old daughter watched it with me so she can swap hers out on her XJ.
That's awesome Greg nice to hear she's willing to fix our own Jeep.
First time changing my CPS took 15 minutes thanks to this video. awesome job with the details, this is one job I was dreading 😂
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.😊
How you got this done in 15 minutes is beyond me lol. Took me a good three hours 😮💨
I’m at hour 3 on the first bolt. Things fn welded on 🙃
Cleanest xj undercarriage I’ve ever seen.
Thank you
It's like watching a surgery with the camera view and the long extensions lol. Great informative video 👍
Thank you, glad you liked it.
Helpful tip . If you're experiencing the bolts falling out of the socket when trying to install the new sensor , put a piece of paper towel or a piece of tape over the opening of the 11mm socket. This will snug up the bolt and keep it from falling out of the socket when trying to alien it . Works great for any bolt that's in a position to jst fall out or get lost in the engine compartment. Example, some bolts that hold down the distributor cap don't always stay with the cap when you're trying to unbolt the cap. The bolt will just fall into the
Netherworld of forever lost bolts . Use anything thin
paperlike that will snug up the bolt to stay in the socket.
As I'm preparing to do this job, you're advice sounds fantastically helpful. Glad I saw this comment, thank you.
This is the only video ive found on how to replace the CPS and shows you how to do it plus tips. your a good man, much appreciation of your work.
I appreciate that!
Thanks, u saved me so much time, heartache, & pain going down a road of parts..... I watched, bought extensions & part, from start to finish it took me 10 minutes. Great tutorial. Mine had the OG sensor, now at 243,000 miles.
Very helpful vid. My Jeep kept cutting out and as you say, "the tac went to zero". I originally thought it was a fuel line issue, but it cuts off INSTANTLY
Same thing, glad i fixed it
You are the first car tutorial channel I´ve ever subscribed to -- very impressed with your clarity, explanation and videography; thank you!!
Great video and well documented just might add to be VERY careful that neither of the bolts when loose happen to fall into the hole where the CPS fits, its easily done, some models have a plastic cover that prevents this. Sometimes its missing, mine was and before I realized I had one of the mounting bolts fall through the hole into the bell housing. Had to take the bottom access cover off and use a long magnet to retrieve it. Mechanics tip is to use petroleum jelly so it sticks in the socket especially when putting new one in. However once all connected started immediately, used similar long extension and a ratchet.
This literally happened to me today lol. Had to take the bottoms cover off as well and use a magnet stick to get it out. But good tip using the petroleum jelly👍🏼
Oh man, I wish I had seen this comment first. I just dropped mine in there and spent like 20 minutes looking around for it. I had no idea that hole was there.
Great Video. Just what I needed to gain some confidence in doing it myself. I’m a little older so getting in and out of those spaces are tough but this vid made it look relatively easy to do with a little patience. Thanks Buddy for great video….
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. I get the whole older thing I can't wait to get a 4 post and 2 posts lift installed in my new shop.
I agree with Rubin. This is by far the best discription and instructional video Ive seen. Great job. I subscribed and thumbed up
Thank you I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Thank you for watching. 😊👍
Best CPS video I seen and I been looking all day for a good one
Thank you, I appreciate that.
Omg it looks so simple but im still stuck with one of them and its driving me crazy Thanks for the video
You can do it!
That is one clean under carriage. Excellent video, keep up the great work
Thank you very much!
I have done this on a 2000 XJ. Took a little longer than this video shows (mine isn't as clean), but process was the same a lot of extensions and wobble socket. I had a intermittent failure as described but did not get the code right away. dropped the bolts a couple of times but this is exactly how it works. I now also cay a crank and cam position sensor both in ba of essentials. Both of these things will kill your motor dead and no work around. Heer is my best pro tip. DO NOT buy the cheap knock off no matter how tempting. Pony up the $100 bucks and only do this job once !!!!!! Another tool for those that don't have lift kit. You will need a jack and good jack stands to fit under there. Thanks for all of the great content, really enjoy this chanel.
I've been chasing the same problem for weeks on my 99. Replacing sensors after sensors that mechanics recommend. My XJ has never thrown a code. I'm definitely going to try this sensor next.
What was your problem with your xj?
Hi Martin there is small plastic plate to cover the hole which is in front of the sensor . . I do have Jeep Cherokee and it has one for I already changed the sensor . It is great video you explained every think .
Ghassan
Martin as always thank you so much for your wealth of info. For the first time since owning it my wj left me stranded for a couple mins on my way home tonight... tach dropped and felt like misfiring, pulled over and restarted after a min and drove fine. p0320 code, guess its safe to say ill be doing this sensor tomorrow
Just successfully replaced the CPS on my '99 Cherokee. I had about 1.5-2' of extension from the ratchet up. I used a piece of tape to hold onto the screws as I was threading them back in. Place the tape over the socket sticky side facing out and push the bolt into the socket. This should hold it well enough for you to get the thread started. I had to disconnect the front drive shaft to get my arm up in there, but I was very close to being able to do this job without removing it so probably will vary person to person. I have an OBD II bluetooth scanner tool which was giving me the code P1391. I actually had to turn the engine off with the ignition on to clear the code. I tried clearing the code a few times with the engine running and it wouldn't clear. Great video! Thank you!
This is the cleanest Cherokee I have ever seen man hope mine can look like this one day
Thank you I'm glad you liked it. I've owned it now for over 12 years.
Has absolutely no rust you just got a love Southern Nevada.
Hi there , can you cut a little hatch on the side of the bell and have an access port there as on the WJ's to reach the sensor easily if on the road or just to make it easier to do the repairs? The sensor was totally diff on my 2002 WJ 4l straight with a single bolt holding it .
Another commenter did that he said.
My man! This video was awesome. Ive never commented on a video before but I had to show you my appreciation. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow, you made that look too easy. Nice rust free XJ. I like to shocks to hold your hood up too.
Thank you. No rust here in southern Nevada. That makes it a lot easier to work on these vehicles. The hood shocks were one of the only things that the previous owner had installed that I really liked.
awesome camera footage and skills for this video. verbals were also very concise
I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. thank you for watching.
That is the cleanest old Jeep I have ever seen.
Good video.
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Im impressed at how easy you made that look. I dont have anywhere near that amount of room down there!
Also, it's worth every penny to go with an oem part. About $140ish from the dealer, $80ish from rock auto.
@@dansears9204 nice! I hope I never have to buy another one again lol
Agreed! Spend the extra money to get the OEM sensor.
thank you.. great video.. helped so much.. had same problem with 97 cherokee i just bought for my daughter with 101k actual miles on it.. this video made it really simple to change! great great camera work also!!!
Great to hear, I'm sure your daughter will enjoy it. 😎
Hey how did you know when to change it ?
Great video on a part which can cause such problems. I dropped one of the bolts in the bell housing and then to top it off the part I got from a well known company had a different plug on it and couldn’t work. Only a genuine Mopar part will be the best option.
Thank you, yes they changed the connector in 97. Mopar parts are the best, I've replaced the CPS 3 or 4 times, the Autozone ones are juke.
@@martinbuilt it was from A-1 but I do have a 97
Thank you Martin and wow finally no more searching for a needle in a hay stack. Great video. My jeep is a 1998 and I cherish it. That was the code I had and exactly what you said was happening to me .
Cheers
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Hey, my name is mark watching your video. I'm all on Jeep grand Cherokee 2001. hundred and sixty thousand miles Cam sensor I think I replaced through place to camp. The crank sensor 320II guess that code came back up so I replaced the one on the top. I guess, but you're replacing the crank sensor thank you.❤
Yeah, 320 code can be either be a crank shaft or a cam shaft position sensor issue.
Just hope that's all the problem was with my cherokee this morning . good video , very helpful
Good luck!
The new crank sensor worked ! So nice to have these videos to give amateur mechanics like me help and guidance .
I like the way you cut thru all the bull crap with your videos .sure makes that" pain in the ass job of cps replacement" a bit easier to understand. Thanks
Best video I've seen yet. Fine job. Thanks for doing it. My jeep should be back on the road quick now
Thank you, Glad it helped
Wow great video. You were serious about having long extensions to get this done.
Most definitely, thank you for watching!
Excellent how-to!
Exactly what I need to know, no extraneous BS.
How well does that 'cabin air intake' work for ya...never seen that before!
I'd bet it's better than one of those snorkels, but not as showy.
EDIT: Just saw your video on that intake...I originally thought you were actually pulling air from INSIDE the cabin.
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.. Yeah if you were to pull air from inside the cabin you'd be surprised how loud that would be.
Thanks, I changed it and it has been working properly finally!
Awesome !! , I have the same issue, your explanation has been the best to try to figure out!
I'm having an issue where when warm my oil pressure goes to about zero at a stop or idle, the red check gauges light comes on, and the motor dies. It doesn't like to start until cooled down a bit. The check engine light has come on briefly but went out (no way to check it). 295k miles and other problems, lol.
i read some of the comments i also taught it was a fuel issue im gonna do that in my 92 jeep cherokee thanks good video not one of those mambo jajambo shit from el paso texas thanks
I'm glad you liked it. Hope this fixes your issue. Thank you for watching.
Does anyone know where I can get a extra bolt I can’t seem to find the exact one
If it was there before you started it is most likely falling down inside the bellhousing remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing to retrieve it.
@@martinbuilt yep fell right in there, and now I got it thanks !
I am having a very similar problem with my 97 tj and from this video I found the wire cover leading to the cps had been resting against the block and had melted to the wire. It is only short circuiting when it's very hot outside. This probably solved my problem.
i had a local shop screw up mine. so next time i did mine. i located the location next to gas pedal right next to the carpeted hump next to the shifter, cut a small hole with a drill bit ,go under and located where bit came out. then using a large hole saw in a drill cut a larger hole,then using sheet metal snips made the hole bigger. now with a light you can see everything and even touch it with your hands. use sheet metal and screws to patch hole pull carpet back into place .mine is a 1988 cherokee this made life sooooo much better .jeep should have done this. also use a cardboard business card to space the sensor so it doesnt scape
You put the card on the flywheel??
Business card?
How did the local shop screw this up? I called one they told me 85$ to install the Mopar CPS I got from the Jeep dealership. But... I'm afraid they might drop a bolt in the bell housing or something stupid..
they ripped off the cover and threw it away bolts where not tight. like i said when i wrote my reply. i located where it was located next to the drive shaft hump next to the gas pedal .drilled a small hole after pulling carpet back then took a metal hole saw and cut a hole and then enlarged the hole and now i could see and put my hands on the sensor , put a sheet metal patch to cover hole then put carpet back in place. it was a 1988 jep cherokee that i bought new@@foxmulder7616
hello again .. will have a video explaining the full time light is activated when in reality it is not activated .. it does not size the tire that is why
Just did my 2002 TJ 4.0 Manual Transmission. The connection for my crankshaft position sensor is on the passenger side of the vehicle down near the oil pressure sensor.
After I completed the job I wondered if I had jacked up the frame slightly and put jackstands under the frame rails (NOT the axles), if that would give me a little more clearance on top of the transmission.
Additionally, there is a rubber boot that is supposed to surround the sensor. It was missing on my 275,000 mile vehicle, but I’m going to order and install it within the next week or so. I think contamination from the open hole probably shortened the life of the sensor I replaced.
Also, I used an NGK/NTK sensor which is the only other brand, other than Mopar, that I’ll use. Time will tell!
Well done video. Simple and to the point
Thank you 😊
Big help…thanks. Idle was surging from 600 to 1100. Bolts on my ‘97 wrangler 4.0 were 7/16 instead of 11mm. Was able to break loose top bolt from above with box end wrench.
love watching how easy that was large tires and lifted help im shure replaced a few nice video.
Thank you, yeah, the big tires and lift do help when it comes to working on the underside of the Jeep but not so much when working under the hood. Then it's time to grab the step stool.
What if there's no check engine light? I'm having cranking but don't start after multiple stops. Eventually it will start feels like a misfire
I didn't have a check light either. My bet is that the CPS is going out on your Jeep.
Thanks I will do that ! Appreciate the advice. Thanks!
Great video helped me tremendously!!! Please keep them coming!
Thank you, I appreciate that, I'm glad it you found it helpful 👍 😊
Great video answers all my questions. Thank you
Dude! Thanks for this video! My boy's just went out.
Glad I could help!
Great video Martin, it caught my attention the air inlet tube above the engine, have you made a video about it? Thanks
Yes here's a video I did on it explaining how and the parts and pieces I used. Thank you for watching.
th-cam.com/video/n5nKvJEPtxI/w-d-xo.html
Nice, im doing this right now on my 1999 XJ
I have the same year as you. Let's keep in touch, Looking for other Jeep friends.
what do you think about bloking the bell housing hole with a rag or something to avoid possible loss of the bolt down the opening? Just fearful of my future attempt!
I lost both that way so I’d say use one
@@LVYTHN I just dropped a bolt in that hole. What did you do about it?
@@Hoonozit was it the hole without the cover on top?
Thanks, pal. Really helped me out
I'm glad you liked it. Thank you for watching.
Quality tutorial! Much appreciated and that is one clean XJ underbelly!!!!
Thank you, Ken. I appreciate that. Yeah, you just gotta love the vehicles that are from the Southwest, not a speck rust. I'm glad you found this video helpful.
Is the same for 2001 xj? I read some people finished the entire job in 10 minutes watching this video. I am one hour in and yet to locate either end of the sensor from top or bottom.
Grateful for the insight. Though I did get the garage to change the CPS. First problem I have had with my 4L petrol 2002, as I only drive it sparingly here in London (but carry bricks, cement and stuff!) It's only done 67000. It stopped 5x the last 28 miles, started up again each time after a few attempts. Hope it will see me through now on my (83+) last run without having to get anything new. Battered, but best car I have had!
Those 4.0 engines will run for ever.😎
@@martinbuilt Unfortunately, the replacement of the CPS did not change the situation. The car occasionally, and not long after starting, just dies out (though it has run in between incidents for 30 miles or so without doing it at all) , it has happened at least 6+ times in the last 100 miles. I can also feel "voids" when I drive it. Often it just requires two turns of the ignition to get going again but on two occasion it required multiple attempts, I thought I was draining the battery! then the engine revs roar ahead only to drop and die down quickly unless you catch them mid stream and sustain the middle level, and then it settles down within a couple of minutes. It will then run for miles and miles without any problem. I thought it might be a fuel contamination and thought that the petrol filter was under the bonnet but the garage tells me in this 2002 model, its in the tank, so I will take it in again and get them to drain it and see if this is the problem There were instances here in North London of contaminated petrol and "Morrison" one of the supermarkets had to compensate a number of drivers but "Tesco" where I got mine just before the problem started denied they had any such problem. The garage excluded it might be the coil, but then what do I know?
Super helpful video! Best one I've seen for replacing the CPS. Thank you!
Great to hear, thank you!
All the info I need. Very understandable, thanks a bunch man! You got me subscribed
Glad you liked it and found it helpful, thank you for subscribing I appreciate that.
Great vid my 01 XJ sensor plug didn’t disconnect at the same location. Mine was don’t further closer to the end of the trans and tcase. Wonder if mines wrong
that seems odd that it would be down there.
That’s where it is located in the newer xjs, mine is also down there
Thanks man. Helped a lot.
great video, well lit, clear and very little excess noise.
Glad you liked it!
Love that you don't play music in your videos
@@martinbuilt
In the mornings my 88 Comanche with the Peugeot would always be hard to shift. I forced it into 2nd and it stalled and never restarted. I changed the fuel filter and pump and that wasn't it.
It will start, putt-putt for 30 sec or so and then die.
My best guess is the CPS, would you agree?
Ooh hermano, realmente me ha ayudado bastante tu video, no sé si entiendas el español pero te agradezco por explicar donde se encuentra el sensor y como reemplazarlo. Muchas gracias.
I have a very similar situation with my YJ however once it warms up it wil idle high and once I drive it and I pull in the the clutch the RPMs will hold at around 2300 and then idles again at around the same, I was told it was a vacuum leak and or a bad MAP sensor. Changed the map sensor couldn’t find any leaks, I’m almost certain it’s a bad CPS
I would clean your idle air control valve and the throttle body where the idle air control valve mounts to.
Or your IAC valve may need to be replaced.
@@martinbuilt got it. I already installed the new part, may have fixed it not sure yet, car stuck in garage with a broken door. If it’s not fixed I’ll give that a shot. Thanks
Having a little trouble locating the sensor and the connector for it under the hood of a JGC '02 with 4.0L straight six. Any tips would be much appreciated.
You don't have to clear the memory or do any type of relearn calibration sync?
No I've done this several times and it is plug and play.
Thank you for watching 👀
Thanks!!!! update your affiliate links so I can support !
Thank you for watching. I checked out the links I see that the Mopar one is currently unavailable but even though it is unavailable all because you went through my link using that pathway I still get credit for anything you purchase from Amazon. Thank you for your support I really appreciate it.😎👍
keep rockin Martin!
oh I will, thanks Kirk
Awesome video, hoping this will fix my stalling problem!
Glad you liked it, hope it works out. 👍
@@martinbuilt I replaced with an autozone sensor and then it wouldn't start at all! put in the old one started first try. I ordered a Mopar one and hopefully that works to fix my stalling issue.
I have a person that has a 1997 that says it need a new fuel pump because it cuts out at 2k rmps wind if it only needs the part you replaced? I want an in line 6 how many miles is to many to consider for purchase? Thanks for the videos. People think I'm crazy wanting an old jeep how do I buy wright and prove them wrong?
Also how do you keep your jeep so rust free?
@@rlchick5774 test the fuel pump psi before replacing the pump, that is a big job and it is much easier to replace the CPS.
If you live in the southwest they stay rust-free.
I was skeptical that this would fix my jeep but it did ! Back on the road again definitely recommend trying this sensor before any other major repair , part is about 40$
Glad it worked out for you, Yeah this sensor can cause lots of problems and make you think other things are wrong with your Jeep especially if you're not getting any codes .
@@martinbuilt yeah my 98 gc no codes idling rough like low rpms at idle 200 to 600,kinda sounds like tractor. Stalled couple times,seems run better at 4000rpm.hard to start as well. Changed plugs,tested fuel pressure 50psi running. 45psi off & holds. Will try CPS Monday
@@calvingoodswimmer2944did it work i got a 2000 that's been shutting off no engine light but gave me crankshaft code when i had a feeling and did the ol turn 3 times ghetto code scanner trick ty mopar
Hello, canyou please explain the modification in the air intake? and how it works? thanks
Check this video out.
DIY Cold Air Intake/Snorkel for Jeep Cherokee XJ
th-cam.com/video/n5nKvJEPtxI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Martin, a very clear and straightforward tutorial. Excellent video and explanation.
Thanks for the video man, I believe this is my problem also.
It most likely is good luck with that.
Thanks for the video.
For 1991 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4 and 4 doors, which one is the Mopar sensor o equivalente?
Thanks you
God BLESS YOU
Im doing a engine swap with my 01 wj 4.0. Should probably replace this sensor when i do so. Would tell me what sensors i should replace when doing an engine swap, i think the cps sensor for the 2ed generation grand cherokee is a bit more challenging than this due to a smaller hood and less room between the bell housing and firewall.
Crankshaft Position Sensor amzn.to/3EmgJq1
I would hang on to the old one just in case.
Hey. I have question?
I have the P320 code. Im changing out tomorrow. Looks like a 15 min job. Did you by any chance have headlight flicker also. Hopefully I don't have another issue. With the wiring. I have 98 cherokee sport.
I have a 90 Cherokee and it has an electric motor and pump assembly for a break booster instead of a vacuum booster behind the master cylinder. I have found part number but the dealerships no longer make the part and the want $3,000 for it. I have looked on line and again can’t find it. What is you suggestion? Please
What electric motor and pump assembly are you referring to?
@@martinbuilt I don’t have a vacuum booster behind the master cylinder, my Cherokee came with an electric motor and pump to assist the breaks
So would that help the issue of my 1995 jeep Cherokee xj stalling out and not starting till its cooled off? Been having the issue and even took off hood while trail riding still done that.
I would be willing to bet that is the problem with your Jeep.
Let me know if that was it.
@@martinbuilt I'm waiting 9n part buddy thanks and I definitely will let ya know 👍
I have one question. How did you get your bolts to stay in your socket. Mine kept wanting to fallout every time I bumped it trying to get the extension up in there. Do you have a magnetic socket
It was probably the dirt that was packed on the bolt that made it easier for me you may want to try adding some grease to the socket and the bolt will stay in there.
Thank you. Great no bullshit tutorial.
Hi Martin! I just replaced my IAC because of rough idle and bad shifting and stalls. I was not getting any codes. Now after I put new IAC I'm getting a 1296 MAP code. I replaced these sensors 2 year's ago and getting same problem again. Why am I now getting a MAP code when I wasn't getting any code to start with until I changed the IAC??
I don't know why you're getting that code but I would reinstall the the old sensor and clear the codes and see if it returns.
@@martinbuilt I'll try that. In meantime it seem everytime I test drive, it gets a little better. Now it runs fine and only stalls when stopping. Seems the longer it runs the longer it takes to stalls, like it's trying to fix itself? The old IAC surprised me. It was totally clean but was almost hot. Another video said if you turn the key on you should feel a little vibration, I felt nothing! Should I disconnect the battery before removing the IAC plug? Procedure for reset codes?? Thank's Martin!✌️
What would happen if the sensor completely went out? Cause my xj went dead on the way home and the 30amp fuse keeps going out went i flip the key. I think my auto shut down relay turns off my pump if it’s not getting a good reading from the crank sensor. Please let me know what you think and thank you for the video
I don't think the crank shaft position sensor could cause a 30 am fuse to blow.
I got the same code but it’s read as ignition distributor engine speed input circuit
Great video.. 👍👍👍
So I have most likely a dumb question. Does the bolted side have an actual plug? Or does it just sit in the hole? I'm going to attempt to replace this, also the tps, and pickup coil/camshaft position sensor. She cranks but no start, and I got back OBD 1 codes in my 95 Grand Cherokee for camshaft position, throttle position, and crankshaft position. This is the most difficult replacement out of the 3 due to location, and putting the bolts back in without extensions. Just wondering if can it be swapped out, but not bolted back? Or would it just be a risk of having an issue. Again...might be a dumb question, but I haven't gotten the new one yet, but does it not have an actual plug on the bolted end and that's why it's bolted? Does it just rest there?
Thanks
You sir are amazing! Great job.
Thank you kindly!😊
I see you don't have a dust cover around your sensor. Is it required?
Mentioning what size is the socket would be appreciated as Im stuck on the road and cant find the right one
11mm good luck
Thank you Sir for the video
You're very welcome I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful thank you for watching.
When driving my 2000 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, the number of revolutions per minute increased to 4,000 before shifting from second to third gear. Your average speed is 36-38 mph when you do this. What's the problem, given that I swapped out the tps sensor and did a full automatic gear overhaul? Which sensor is responsible for the kilometer / hour height?
This sounds like a problem with the solenoid pack, like it is slipping between the 2 gears as it shifts.