THANK YOU for this info!! through no fault of my own (new landlords not playing well with gov't agencies that help me with rent due to my disabilities) i'm gettting booted out of my home i've been in for 7 yrs. i am VERY lucky & Blessed!! & a lil bit smart. i bought an older travel trailer and BLESS my good friends! they are letting me park it on their property.. i am gonna live in it till i come up on a list for an apartment. ALL of the apt's i checked wi th have a 6 month to year long waiting list. this is EXACTLY the information i needed to get it settled properly on their property. AWESOME!! once again Thank You!!
Thanks so much for your video. We're just about to set our RV up permanently for a year or two and we were having trouble figuring out how we'll go about it. This helps a lot.
You're absolutely right about that. Up here in Canada, most travel trailers are parked for the season, from May 1'st of so till October 15 or so, on the same spot, sometimes for many years, at the same campsite. The trailers even overwinter on the same spot. Nearly all of them are blocked up. Cheers.........Guy
great info, Guy. I have a 1968 Williams Craft Travel Trailer I am getting ready to restore. am going to replace floor frame as needed and check axle bearings and change tires in process so I will be putting it up on blocks to accomplish things easier.. this video definitely helps.
That should be a load of fun. Don't know how travel trailers were made back then, but I do know they were built sturdier than most models you see today. and some of the work on the inside cabinets was terrific. Good luck with that, and be sure to post some pics somewhere on the net for other enthusiasts to enjoy. Cheers!
Good tutorial! This helps alot. I tried having someone explain it to me, but this visual example makes it clear. Having said that, I'm not sure that you are going to fit in that particular trailer!
Great video & I love the "props". I don't have a choice of a level (side to side) spot. I have about a 4" drop from the right to left sides. Wouldn't an extra cement block or treated lumber be acceptable to raise the left side a bit higher than the right? What problems could I expect & how can I avoid them?
Hey Gary, sorry so long before getting back to you. Yes, lumber does the job well also. Here in Canada with the frost, some people claim the styrofoam reduces frost heave. Most folks just use a concrete patio stone or pressure treated plywood. Hope all worked out well for you.
I would have done the video with a real trailer, but I didn't think anybody would want to watch me for an hour or so. Thanks for taking the time to comment, it's much appreciated.
Great video. How would you suggest doing the same thing but lifting it enough so that you can remove the wheels? I need to replace the springs on my double axle travel trailer. Thanks.
now you have no idea how much this is a prescient because even doing it with the little imaging it's a lot easier makes a lot more sense. I own a couple RV sites so I wanted some are reasonable sites to stay there regularly and visit and everybody wants to sell you a $300 set of stabilizer cross braces when I have concrete blocks line around it I was trying to figure out how to use it. I've got hydraulic jacks and everything too and I knew that there had to be some ways to utilize them without having to go through the expense of cross braces.
Hello - I was wondering why you are using the Styrofoam pads? It would seem that once the weight of cinder blocks and the trailer sits on it it will just crush? What purpose does it serve?
Eloine Chapman In Canada some people claim that the styrofoam pads help prevent frost heave, and so may reduce some movement of the trailer during spring thaw. I don't think they make much difference in the end. Great question that is still debated. Cheers!
It's not a real issue if it's not level from side to side, it's just so much easier to level when it is, so yes, if you fit a block around near where the axle is to level from side to side, then the front to back is a breeze. What you don't want to do is lift hard on one corner when the other corners aren't supported. Leveling that way is a nightmare. I've often dug out under the wheels to level when in your situation if the ground isn't too hard. Cheers and good luck.
I just set out to do this and realized there's a propane line running the entire length of the frame on one side. I'd really prefer my water heater and stove to continue functioning, so is there another place I can put the blocks that will support the weight without crushing the propane lines? I was planning on removing the tires and storing them in the barn, hopefully prolonging their life. I don't know if any of those parts (sorry I don't know what they're called) can rest on the blocks and support the weight of the camper, but I am desperate to get off the suspension. My plates keep sliding out of the cabinet and I haven't had a good night's sleep in months thanks to the wind. Yes, I have my stabilizers properly engaged, but they're useless. I'm also hoping this project will bring be back to level, side to side. Please help! I don't know what to do but something must be done; I can't live like this. Thank you in advance.
What is the purpose of the plywood between the blocks; a sort of "shock absorption" between the blocks? Does it seem to make for a "softer feel" when walking around the camper? Thanks for the video!
Chris Bertolini - I had the same question. My guess is it has to do with protecting the blocks. If you don’t ALSO tie the RV to the ground using mobile home anchors, there’s probably a good chance you’ll get some shifting in high winds, which can crack “naked” blocks.
Actually, you'll have better luck if you start a leveling point near the axles and leveling to the width. Then do the same at the tongue, using a level inside to get the floor level as close as possible. Remember a long trailer is built on a "S" frame for mobility and if you try to water level the whole thing, you will pop all the paneling loose or crack the sheetrock. You must maintain the "S"
It will be a sold level, but dang, there's no way I'm fiddling with that many cinder blocks to level my trailer, unless I'm staying for a very long time then I would use your method.
Block up the tongue, then the frame farthest from the tongue behind the axle. Easy enough to do in the yard if all secure. If you've never done this, remember to unscrew from the bolt nuts, usually inside the frame, and punch out the bolts. The bolts are ribbed to hold secure in the hangers. You'll need to replace bushings. Also check hangers for oblong worn bolt holes. Cheers and good luck.
hi,,,,,,i have a 6x10 cargo trail gvwr 2990. not sure of actual trailer weight. the trailer stands aprox.86 " high. my garage door opening is only 84" . due to hoa rules where i live i have to keep it in my garage. i was able to get it in just barely by flattening the wheels. but this s not to practical to use the trailer often.i have decided to leave it on just bare rims to solve my clearance problem to pul it in and out of the garage. and install the rimed tires once in the driveway.what i would like to know is can i raise the trailer safely leaving the hitch connected to my truck and jacking the trailer up from the center of the rear with a 3 ton floor jack to install both tires with out having to jack it up twice once from either side? will the floor jack lift the weight enough to get the tires on ? will this procedure be safe to do? keep in mind i will chock the truck tires and use jack stands under the rear when enough height is reached to take off the bare rims and install the tires.
+bob woerner Hi Bob. I've done the same thing as you suggest, jacking from the center rear. Not the safest thing, but it works. I guess it's the danger that the trailer will somehow rock off the jack and fall just as you are putting on a tire, but with jack stands as you say, you should be alright. Cheers!
@@frankenstein3163 Rotting I can see happen they get weathered yeah but warping???? How does a tire warp when there is nothing to warp it. If it were on the ground and tire just sitting in the same position all the time then I can see it warping but not while it is in the air. Can you explain to me how it could warp while is off the ground?
It's the wheels that need to be level, so you may need to block up the lower wheels or dig under the higher ones so that the axle is level across the trailer. Good luck with that!
Here’s my question, what’s the max number of blocks || ft high columns yu can put under a trailer? New horrid owners bought the park I live in & have been doing AWEFUL things to those who don’t own land here. Dissolved rent to own land & trailers completely even to those with one or two payments left, after 30 years of payments, etc. Evicted so so many poor people in winter.. it killed my handyman the kindest soul who tended more than half of the properties here & he was just one person out of the hundreds they booted.. I wish the worst upon them for that. They have been putting “new” homes up on single block columns of cinder blocks stacked 7 feet high & more. This seriously doesn’t look safe.
I could see doing this if you are parking the trailer on your property and it's going to be there for a long while, but not if you are taking your trailer out for a weekend camping trip. No one is going to haul around a truck load of cinder blocks on a camping trip.
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THANK YOU for this info!!
through no fault of my own (new landlords not playing well with gov't agencies that help me with rent due to my disabilities) i'm gettting booted out of my home i've been in for 7 yrs.
i am VERY lucky & Blessed!! & a lil bit smart.
i bought an older travel trailer and BLESS my good friends! they are letting me park it on their property.. i am gonna live in it till i come up on a list for an apartment. ALL of the apt's i checked wi th have a 6 month to year long waiting list. this is EXACTLY the information i needed to get it settled properly on their property. AWESOME!! once again Thank You!!
The model was adorable and your explanation was really helpful, thank you!
Probably the best trailer leveling video out there. Bought my first trailer and will be arriving in a few weeks to do this. Thank you.
I have been searching for a video like this for ages! Exactly what I needed. Thanks for being so helpful and straightforward.
quite possibly the most helpful and efficient youtube video I've ever watched. Well done. And a big thank you.
Thanks so much for your video. We're just about to set our RV up permanently for a year or two and we were having trouble figuring out how we'll go about it. This helps a lot.
You're absolutely right about that. Up here in Canada, most travel trailers are parked for the season, from May 1'st of so till October 15 or so, on the same spot, sometimes for many years, at the same campsite. The trailers even overwinter on the same spot. Nearly all of them are blocked up. Cheers.........Guy
great info, Guy. I have a 1968 Williams Craft Travel Trailer I am getting ready to restore. am going to replace floor frame as needed and check axle bearings and change tires in process so I will be putting it up on blocks to accomplish things easier.. this video definitely helps.
That should be a load of fun. Don't know how travel trailers were made back then, but I do know they were built sturdier than most models you see today. and some of the work on the inside cabinets was terrific. Good luck with that, and be sure to post some pics somewhere on the net for other enthusiasts to enjoy. Cheers!
Good tutorial! This helps alot. I tried having someone explain it to me, but this visual example makes it clear. Having said that, I'm not sure that you are going to fit in that particular trailer!
The most simple, easiest and best demonstration . One question, what's the function/purpose of the foam?
This is incredibly helpful. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
Great video & I love the "props". I don't have a choice of a level (side to side) spot. I have about a 4" drop from the right to left sides. Wouldn't an extra cement block or treated lumber be acceptable to raise the left side a bit higher than the right? What problems could I expect & how can I avoid them?
Hey Gary, sorry so long before getting back to you. Yes, lumber does the job well also. Here in Canada with the frost, some people claim the styrofoam reduces frost heave. Most folks just use a concrete patio stone or pressure treated plywood. Hope all worked out well for you.
I would have done the video with a real trailer, but I didn't think anybody would want to watch me for an hour or so. Thanks for taking the time to comment, it's much appreciated.
Great video. How would you suggest doing the same thing but lifting it enough so that you can remove the wheels? I need to replace the springs on my double axle travel trailer. Thanks.
Yeah I'm here for this
Thanks for the demo, I need to block up & tie down, my caravan for our cyclone season looks quite easy. :o)
Tis easy, if you start out with the wheels level. Cheers and good luck with that!
now you have no idea how much this is a prescient because even doing it with the little imaging it's a lot easier makes a lot more sense.
I own a couple RV sites so I wanted some are reasonable sites to stay there regularly and visit and everybody wants to sell you a $300 set of stabilizer cross braces when I have concrete blocks line around it I was trying to figure out how to use it.
I've got hydraulic jacks and everything too and I knew that there had to be some ways to utilize them without having to go through the expense of cross braces.
I love love LOVE that model yu made to demonstrate on! So cute!
Hello - I was wondering why you are using the Styrofoam pads? It would seem that once the weight of cinder blocks and the trailer sits on it it will just crush? What purpose does it serve?
Eloine Chapman In Canada some people claim that the styrofoam pads help prevent frost heave, and so may reduce some movement of the trailer during spring thaw. I don't think they make much difference in the end. Great question that is still debated. Cheers!
It's not a real issue if it's not level from side to side, it's just so much easier to level when it is, so yes, if you fit a block around near where the axle is to level from side to side, then the front to back is a breeze. What you don't want to do is lift hard on one corner when the other corners aren't supported. Leveling that way is a nightmare. I've often dug out under the wheels to level when in your situation if the ground isn't too hard. Cheers and good luck.
I just set out to do this and realized there's a propane line running the entire length of the frame on one side. I'd really prefer my water heater and stove to continue functioning, so is there another place I can put the blocks that will support the weight without crushing the propane lines? I was planning on removing the tires and storing them in the barn, hopefully prolonging their life. I don't know if any of those parts (sorry I don't know what they're called) can rest on the blocks and support the weight of the camper, but I am desperate to get off the suspension. My plates keep sliding out of the cabinet and I haven't had a good night's sleep in months thanks to the wind. Yes, I have my stabilizers properly engaged, but they're useless. I'm also hoping this project will bring be back to level, side to side. Please help! I don't know what to do but something must be done; I can't live like this. Thank you in advance.
Very nice! I just finished a roadtrip around Europe which was so good!! I put videos on my youtube but a camera just can't capture the experience!
Thanks Guy I was just getting ready to do this (27 footer). Whats the blue styrofoam for and can I use 2 inch lumber instead? Thanks great video. gary
What is the purpose of the plywood between the blocks; a sort of "shock absorption" between the blocks? Does it seem to make for a "softer feel" when walking around the camper? Thanks for the video!
Chris Bertolini - I had the same question. My guess is it has to do with protecting the blocks. If you don’t ALSO tie the RV to the ground using mobile home anchors, there’s probably a good chance you’ll get some shifting in high winds, which can crack “naked” blocks.
Nice demo for blocking a trailer
thank you for a wonderful presentation
Hello Patrick. Thanks so much for the taking to comment. It's always appreciated. Cheers!
How much would you charge for doing this?
I think it might be safer for the block's to be placed next to the wheel's and than use stabelizer on rear end. Or am I wrong ?
Actually, you'll have better luck if you start a leveling point near the axles and leveling to the width. Then do the same at the tongue, using a level inside to get the floor level as close as possible. Remember a long trailer is built on a "S" frame for mobility and if you try to water level the whole thing, you will pop all the paneling loose or crack the sheetrock. You must maintain the "S"
What's the blue foam purpose?
It will be a sold level, but dang, there's no way I'm fiddling with that many cinder blocks to level my trailer, unless I'm staying for a very long time then I would use your method.
Block up the tongue, then the frame farthest from the tongue behind the axle. Easy enough to do in the yard if all secure. If you've never done this, remember to unscrew from the bolt nuts, usually inside the frame, and punch out the bolts. The bolts are ribbed to hold secure in the hangers. You'll need to replace bushings. Also check hangers for oblong worn bolt holes. Cheers and good luck.
Hey thx for the video.
Do I have to have the ones in the middle by the wheel?
What?
hi,,,,,,i have a 6x10 cargo trail gvwr 2990. not sure of actual trailer weight. the trailer stands aprox.86 " high. my garage door opening is only 84" . due to hoa rules where i live i have to keep it in my garage. i was able to get it in just barely by flattening the wheels. but this s not to practical to use the trailer often.i have decided to leave it on just bare rims to solve my clearance problem to pul it in and out of the garage. and install the rimed tires once in the driveway.what i would like to know is can i raise the trailer safely leaving the hitch connected to my truck and jacking the trailer up from the center of the rear with a 3 ton floor jack to install both tires with out having to jack it up twice once from either side? will the floor jack lift the weight enough to get the tires on ? will this procedure be safe to do? keep in mind i will chock the truck tires and use jack stands under the rear when enough height is reached to take off the bare rims and install the tires.
+bob woerner Hi Bob. I've done the same thing as you suggest, jacking from the center rear. Not the safest thing, but it works. I guess it's the danger that the trailer will somehow rock off the jack and fall just as you are putting on a tire, but with jack stands as you say, you should be alright. Cheers!
thats good to hear........thanks.
Thank you for the education
Why blue Styrofoam under the blocks?
I'm at a koa campground that has unleved pavement, how do I level my travel trailer? ?
Yeah then first step is have level ground 🙄
Lame
Just wondering, how come it is not good to have tires off the ground?
Rotting and warping can happen over time.
@@frankenstein3163 Rotting I can see happen they get weathered yeah but warping???? How does a tire warp when there is nothing to warp it. If it were on the ground and tire just sitting in the same position all the time then I can see it warping but not while it is in the air. Can you explain to me how it could warp while is off the ground?
Great stuff.. thanks Guy
my van is on uneven ground i have no flat ground on my block how can that be rectified?
It's the wheels that need to be level, so you may need to block up the lower wheels or dig under the higher ones so that the axle is level across the trailer. Good luck with that!
Here’s my question, what’s the max number of blocks || ft high columns yu can put under a trailer? New horrid owners bought the park I live in & have been doing AWEFUL things to those who don’t own land here. Dissolved rent to own land & trailers completely even to those with one or two payments left, after 30 years of payments, etc. Evicted so so many poor people in winter.. it killed my handyman the kindest soul who tended more than half of the properties here & he was just one person out of the hundreds they booted.. I wish the worst upon them for that. They have been putting “new” homes up on single block columns of cinder blocks stacked 7 feet high & more. This seriously doesn’t look safe.
Concrete Masonry Units, not Cinder Blocks, yes?
I just flew into Southpark. Boy are my crutches tired....
I could see doing this if you are parking the trailer on your property and it's going to be there for a long while, but not if you are taking your trailer out for a weekend camping trip. No one is going to haul around a truck load of cinder blocks on a camping trip.
Duh.
Blocking is for permanent set up.
Well if the land isn't level , this doesn't help & doesn't styrofoam collapse
Well thats cute
I'm at a koa campground that has unleved pavement, how do I level my travel trailer? ?
Put something under the wheels, a board or boards that will bring the axle to a level position. Good luck and have fun.
Thank you.