Before watching, I always save for the bike I want, I saw someone say carbon saddle, tubular 22mm (narrow) and high psi uncomfortable, I find it so comfortable and quick that I am looking at a morph suit lycra but as hate legs and arms not covered
Retiring my Specialized Allez Race (2014) in the coming spring. It has served me well and regular cleaning and maintenance lends a hand in the upkeep of the bike. Fall/Winter project is building a Specialized Allez Sprint with 105 11-speed mechanical. I don't have the funds to go "full Di2 bananas" and ride 4 to 6 days a week for nothing but health reasons and the peace of mind that an hour or two on the bike brings.
@@gregmorrison7320you are either good enough to be part of a team/be sponsored and therefore be provided such equipment or it is not necessary to buy high end parts
@@gregmorrison7320 Pro's typically don't pay for their top-spec components as their team or sponsor provides the bike. Everyone else pays for top-spec parts and thus probably don't need them because they aren't pros that make a living off of riding.
@@Philatlondon1 I have a 25yo dura ace bike and it's holding up just fine! I never regretted buying it...and I doubt I will regret buying my new Dura Ace Bike either! If you have the money to burn on something extra nice and you understand that it's not going to make you fast on its own, enjoy!
I’m late to the video but yes, saving grams is only important for a few people. Especially when just the action of cycling will help shed more than those few grams.
Reminds me of a former co-worker. He went out spending thousands of dollars on a Bowflex to get in shape yet every Saturday he'd bring in a box of Italian pastries.
Great to see GCN pushing this stance. 👍 Small cost tweeks to your setup, can keep your existing bike relevant to your needs, or buying 2nd hand top of the range rim brake bikes from 5-10yrs ago, for next to nothing. Cost of new bikes over last 3-4 years is ridiculous, really poor bang for buck. I've kept my 2016 Boardman Pro SLR relevant to my needs and capability. As This video shows, running GP5000's with latex tubes (and fitting decent rim tape), immersive hot waxing my chain (a game changer), and fine running my position on my bike, getting lower. You don't need to spend your hard earned cash on a new (ridiculously priced) bike. Best bang for buck performance improvements are with the lump sitting on top of the bike 😉
I totally agree with everything you said...except for the latex tubes. Replace those latex tubes with TPU tubes and you'll save yourself about 200 grams in the most important part of the bike-the outer perimeter of the wheel. I run Continental GP5000 tires with RideNow TPU tubes and I can definitely notice the lower rotational inertia with the TPU tubes.
@@SignorLuigi Totally agree, already replaced my spare Butyl tube with TPU (fitting Latex tubes is best done in comfort of home, not out on the road). However I just love the comfort and ride feel of Latex tubes. Also I weight 59kg's, so a few 100grams savings, not going to make much difference for my setup. But TPU definitely is the way to go for anyone still on butyl tubes. 👍
When I was looking to buy a bike last year, the first bike I tried was the cheapest in the Specialized Diverge range. It ticked every box and I was ready to buy until the chap in my local bike shop convinced me to try a more expensive Diverge model too. I ended up taking a week to think about my purchase because the cheaper model did everything I needed, but the more expensive one was noticeably nicer to ride. I ultimately bought the cheaper model and haven't regretted it.
Bought the next up from the bottom level Diverge and I'm very happy with this decision. It had mechanical shifting in a mullet setup with entry level SRAM hydraulic disc brakes. I'm upgrading the tyres and eventually the wheel set to tubeless. Second ride I hit something and seriously punctured. Was happy rims were aluminium as they culprit hit the rim and deflected off it instead of destroying it.
I've been riding the Decathlon's Triban RC120 for a few years now, covering over 13,000 km on solo adventures. I've thoroughly enjoyed my time with this bike, but curiosity got the better of me recently, prompting me to join group rides. To my surprise, I've discovered that I can keep up comfortably with pack 2, although I do find it a bit challenging to stay with pack 1 in terms of performance. One of the remarkable aspects of this bike is the element of surprise it brings to my fellow riders. They often turn their heads, expecting me to fall behind, but I manage to hold my own. This has allowed me to forge friendships more quickly within the group.
I’m thinking to buy my first road bike, and Literally I’m so confused looking at all the bikes in the market. Should I go for Triban RC 120 disc, your help is greatly appreciated.
First class video. For the ‘average’ rider, what can beat a basic bike with good frameset, good components, and most important of all, generally easily serviceable at home. 👍👍👍
I've got a specialised Allez sprint rim brake version, upgraded with Sram Red wireless and a specialized roval rapide handlebar, I would swap mine to this Canyon CFR
I built my own, very first and only road bike up from scratch. I purchased an 2010 trek 2.1 alpha frame and forks for £80 and built the rest up around it. I stripped it back to bare aluminium and painted the forks matte black which gave it a modern feel. I then went for the Shimano 105 groupset and purchased every part off eBay, some new 105 parts and some older. the most expensive was the newer version shifters which were £120 for the pair. I built it up and then got it properly serviced and set up and it is absolutely fantastic to ride. it surprises me evrytime I ride it just how fast road bikes are and this was for under £600. plus the added bonus of it being very personal and had me learn a lot along the way. to add to the point of this video, I can honestly say that everytime I look to upgrading it, it is purely out of want, not need. I think if the right deal comes along, I will look at a newer more modern frameset. but purely out of want! bye
I feel like the Shimano 105 groupset would be even more interesting to bring this point home, because apart from the weight, there isn't that much difference between it and DuraAce. While Tiagra and Sora are good for somebody who starts out and wants to check out if this whole cycling thing is for him/her, other groupsets are objectively better. But for someone who sticks to cycling the argument can be made that apart from the weight, there isn't that much benefit from upgrading from the 105 to higher end groupsets. The same argument can be made for Campagnolo Chorus vs. Record and Super Record. Feels similar, shifts similar, brakes similar. But it's lighter. Now I would argue that most of the subscribers, me included, could save more weight through bringing their body weight down before the expensive weight saving of a better groupset makes sense. All that being said, I gotta wrap this comment up because it's Sunday and I'm on my way to ride my Super Record EPS equipped Italian aero bike 😅 (TL;DR it isn't reasonable, but it's so much fun)
I wonder if the difference would be so significant, if both bikes were on 12s group (AL could get new, mechanical 105, which probably will happen next year) and cassettes 11-34. Because 11 or less speed 11-34 is rather… suboptimal.
I think you are absolutly right ! There is a big difference betwen a 1000 € and a 13 000€ bike, but I don't think there is such a big difference bewteen a good 3000€ bike and a 13 000€ bike. 3000 € gets you 105 groupset, good carbon frame, good wheels without to much compromise.
A new Allez Sport with Sora R3000 (cheaper hubs and brakes) can be had for $750. Swap the brakes for a set of R7000 105 Dual Pivots and it's not a bad deal for an entry level bike. Get better quality hubs when you replace the wheels down the road. That said an R7000 group with brakes is under $500 new now and would be a great way to go if you find a deal on the right frameset. One thing to think about is the fact that the 11 speeds have significantly faster wear on consumables than 9 speeds due to reduced surface area.
Nice to see GCN producing this style of video. Far too many people think they need 105 or better components when it is just what they want. My cousin recently purchased a Trek Domane with Sora specked components and she loves it.
The law of diminishing returns for road bikes -- for non-racers and non-pros -- begins kicking in at around $1000 US. For almost everyone who will go anywhere on a road bike anywhere in the world today, an aluminum frame, aluminum wheels, a 2x drive train, and nothing electric or hydraulic is the right answer. For example, a Giant Contend with Claris drivetrain and Tektro rim brakes can be had today for under $1000 US. I suspect it's nothing special in the eyes of people watching this channel, but it's a bike that provides a lot of fun, can be ridden fast, and if not abused will last the average rider for decades with nothing more than routine maintenance a rider can perform with basic tools. Super light and super "aero" carbon fiber, no-cables-showing hyperbikes are for people who earn their livelihood going fast on a bike. That's almost none of us. Spending more gets you more, but the progression is far from linear. I'd guess there's not a single pro rider who can go 25% faster on his or her $15,000 hyperbike than on a sub-$1000 base Contend, let alone 15X faster. It's probably in the 10% faster range. Clearly that's a no-go for a pro, but it's no big deal for most of us, especially given the other things the $14,000 saved can buy.
I purchased the Canyon Endurace CF7 Disc (about $2000, carbon and Shimano 105) and have since added my preferred saddle (Gilles Berthoud Galibier) and a set of Roval Alpinist CL II wheels with Continental GP5000 tires and TPU tubes. I'll continue to make component upgrades here and there but I am extremely satisfied with this and would have no plans to change the 105 groupset and will likely not need a new bike for a long time. My goal is, as the Endurace name suggests, a fast endurance bike that is comfortable on long rides and lightweight for climbing (lots of hills in my area.) As the bike sits now, it weighs 7.9kg, but that Gilles Berthoud saddle is leather and weighs 5-7oz more than your typical carbon saddle, however, in terms of comfort (and looks!) I am willing to take the weight penalty. With additional component upgrades going forward (not in a big hurry,) the bike will likely end up around 7.5kg. Of course I am not a professional, but I am a serious amateur focusing on building my skill, speed, fitness and endurance, and I do like to get into the weeds with tweaking the bike with upgrades, etc. Obsessing over that stuff brings its own fun and interest, just be mindful of your wallet and don't go beyond your means - not to mention, it can teach you to work on, maintain or build your own bikes. Didn't mean to write a book here but oh well.
I was going to say, replace the 105 cassette with an Ultegra when the time comes since to 105 is pretty heavy in comparison. But, as long as you maintain and replace your chain when needed, the 105 cassette virtually lasts forever.
At 8K I’d 100% pay for insurance and mine does include full replacement at ~160/year for a 3400€ bike. My main concern was theft but crashes are just covered by default apparently
I say, if you are going to buy a ridiculously expensive bike, buy all the expensive components and then put them on a lightweight metal frame. You still got the experience of the nice kit, but a crash won’t take out your bike. I have a high-end custom steel bike with Campagnolo super record EPS wireless 12 speed and I’m never going to worry about a crash. Any crash bad enough to wreck a steel or titanium bike is probably going to kill you. Aluminum is more fragile, but even the most expensive aluminum frames are quite affordable in comparison.
Good to see GCN keeping perspective on what "average riders" (if there is such a thing!) need/want. I'm only a few months back in to cycling haven't not ridden much since my teens on a steel road bike with downtube shifters. £650 is pretty cheap by bike standards, but that got me a Sora equipped gravel bike that is perfect for my current needs and the terrain I ride on. Plus on my local park loop the first time I rode it I went 10 minutes quicker than I had done on the borrowed MTB I had been riding before that!
A couple of years ago I got a brand new Endurace AL 7 with fulll set 11-speed Shimano 105 including 105 hydraulic disc brakes, tubeless compatible DT Swiss wheels and Continential Grand Prix 28c tyres. It was $1,550. More than enough bike that this weekend warrior will ever need...
Great video. My wife and I just bought Cannondale synapse AL bikes. The leftover previous generation. I got 105 and she got tiagra. Guess what? Hers rides way better than mine out of the gate simply because the tech at the bike shop where she got hers spent more time setting it up and did a better job getting the derailleurs right. Mine has had to go back in twice. In the end, both bikes are great but it just goes to show there is more to it than just the group set.
But they're just the sort of upgrade you're likely to make on a cheap bike, since upgrading wheels and tyres is normally the biggest change you can make.
Endurace comes with GP 5000 for several years now which are among the best in respect to rolling resistance and weight. The carbon wheels save probably more around 300g?
I just got hold of a second hand aluminium Emonda ALR5 for around $1000 and it’s absolutely all that I need even though I’d always dreamed of a higher end carbon Emonda.
I switch between bikes often during the week, and the hugest difference is the tire setup. I commute/train on the Cinturato Velo tire, and that thing is a tank of a tire. I will be about 1-1.5mph slower on that one, with same pwoer output. Do I care? No, because the tire is tough. BUT, if I use a GP5000, the bike is considerably more comfortable (supple is the word), and it sticks better to the road. It is definitely a faster tire and will alter the ride for sure. Anything else, meh, not so sure it matters as much as you're lead to believe. Cool video, next up, change the headset bearings on each bike!
@@gcntech I've just got hold of a set of Mavic deep section carbon rim brake wheels. They feel (and are) significantly faster than the box section Mavic wheels they replaced and I'm setting Strava bests without even trying at the moment.
8 years ago, I saw my dream bike. Viper Red Trek Madone SLR, and was completely swept off my feet by SRAM's 1st Gen Red eTap. A couple months ago I bought the frame and finished my custom Madone SLR build with ENVE Foundation wheels and Red AXS groupset. I get chills riding it as well as looking at it. You really can have your cake and eat it too. Just don't have kids 😉
@@Qlicky I didn't say I saved for 8 years, it just happened to be 8 years after I saw an aero bike for the first time, the SRAM groupset, and finally decided to build one my own.
Tire pressure is another huge factor I overlooked until recently. I always just jumped on the bike without checking the pressure and it slowed me down a ton.
When I came to purchase my first carbon bike almost 20 years ago, I was advised that it couldn't accommodate my weight and I purchased the bike I need. Two years later, after losing significant weight, I went straight back in to the same bike store and purchased the most expensive Colnago fitted with Super Record in the store. Not because I needed it, but purely out of spite :-)
The CAAD12 is one of the only bikes were I don't want a disc brake version because of the rear open dropouts, making wheelset upgrades tricky to deal with. Nice move on planning to get a rim brake counterpart. Found your size yet?
If the canyon ultimate 105 version would be with integrated cables. For sure it would be my first choice, if going for a new bike, the frame is amazing and race minded, and can go for a bit of off road aswell with 35mm tires
@@bernardo9202 i own the new ulimate cf ultra for 3200€, and im very happy with it and could achieve quite nice results in gran fondo races already (100km - 2:21h)
yea, sram apex/force and hydraulic brakes are available (especially when including deals) when searching just 200-300 higher than this lower-tier bike and would improve it enough to make those diminishing returns-claims even more extreme
I started with a cheap Alu endurance bike… first I upgraded the wheels, then saddle, handlebars, group set and finally the frame. Really happy with it!!
Got a Giant Contend SL 1 Disc, first upgrade was tyres and now after almost 2 years I will switch my rims from the stock pr-2 to a reputable brand alloys with a bit deeper, stiffer and lighter profile with better hub. I am done with upgrades untill I have to change my tyres again.
Never want to replace a frayed/snapped shift cable ever again, so I think electronic shifting is worth the extra money. Disc brakes are a must. Work much better in wet conditions from my experience.
Loved the vid as it really demonstrated the point of need vs want vs joy of riding. I've upgraded over the years as I've gotten into road cycling in part needing better equipment as well as being able to afford better equipment like I've done in other hobbies. When you reach a certain point when you can take advantage of better equipment you need it. Now that I'm older(57yrs) I've appreciated that while I no longer can truly take advantage of levels of quality, it is nice to have because I can afford it and appreciate on what it provides given my current state of affairs. In truth for most of us it will be a balance of want vs need with need overruling more often that not 😜
The Canyon Roadlite 7 is an interesting bike also. Yes it has flat bars and Al frame. But still only 9.2kg and Ultegra drivetrain. No wonder it is sold out at $900. There are lots of great bikes out there in that $900-1800 range. Makes me wish that I was shopping for a new bike again.
I’ve got the bike I need at the moment - it’s been dependable, affordable, and fun! That being said; with a substantial increase in fitness, better knowledge of the geography where I live, a growing group of friends who ride, and a desire to go faster and climb higher, I’ll soon be purchasing the bike I want. I am glad there are cheap(ish) entry-level road bikes out there that can scratch the itch that we all have. It’s also a great feeling to outgrow those and move onto something that keeps challenging us and continuing the love affair with cycling.
No one needs a Porsche or a Ferrari but they are nice things to enjoy. For some (me) researching bikes/frames/ components then saving up to buy them so you can discuss them with other enthusiasts is part of the fun.
Congrats to this honest video! 😊In 2020 I bought a cube attain race, they didn't have the 105 version I was looking for, but after testing it I thought : hey it will do! All I changed was the saddle and the tires.
I agree with the tire upgrade. I was surprised how much better my Emonda SL5 completely changed. To me, the Emonda SL5 2019 (the last of the rim brake model) is the most perfect road bike. Comfort, light, responsive and with the people's group set, you really can't go wrong. It ticked all the boxes for me and the price was right. I am very much considering getting that exact Canyon, even colour, as my commute bike. This video couldn't have come at a better time.
@@IbnTariq007 Continental Ultra Sport III Folding PureGrip and those are the cheaper ones. I'm told that once I upgrade to the Grand Prix 5000 it will be even better. Give it a try. The ones I got are the budget ones.
That's why I like the used market for the bikes you WANT. The bike you WANT at the price you kind-of sort-of WANT ;) It would also be interesting to hear GCN Tech's take on comparing the longevity / maintenance of these components (where this video seems more about the performance and feel).
I totally rate the more cost friendly bikes. One bit of kit on them that from experience I do not rate is mechanical disc brakes. Recently upgraded to hydraulics and it is night and day...
Bought a Giant Contend AR with Tiagra during lockdown. I was chatting recently with a bloke who has a very expensive bike and he was trying to persuade me to buy a new bike, I simply pointed out that it does everything I need and getting a lighter faster bike would be pointless until I shift the 10kg that makes me the teardrop shape in lycra. Also 32mm tubeless tyres are a very good thing.
Absolutely love this video and the view on these insane prices 😅 i have an entry level aluminium bike with shimano sora and boy it feels great to be faster than people with top end bikes in races 😊 however i would love to get hydraulic breaks someday, for me they add so much more comfort and are definitely a must have on the next bike!
100% on the brakes. I *almost* upgraded my bike earlier this year to Tiagara levers keeping mechanical discs, but then lucked into a take-off GRX400 groupset. I'm so happy I did, the brakes were kinda difficult to set up but they are *so* worth it in performance.
i'm riding a supersix evo from 2014. its a super super bike. very comfortable and 'fast'. and yes. the tires make the biggest difference to any bike, thank you for mentioning that ( its a pet peeve of mine when anyone tests a 30 year old bike ( with old tires ) and then finds the new 'aero' bike much faster.
The bike I need is my MTB with fat slicks, as huge contact patches and rotors are vital when some rectumhole ignores traffic laws. Still love riding the road bike because of superior ergonomics🙂
Both. From an '86 ALAN Carbonio to an '82 Colnago Superissimo, '85 Bridgestone T700, '01 LOOK KG381 and '95 Wheeler (single speed). I just found a '22 LOOK 795 hydraulic discs, electric shifting and CF wheels. I'll get it Thursday. Way beyond my capabilities but at 82 everything is. See me grin at my stable.
Nice video! Thanks for the information. It would be also helpful to show the differences of these two bikes in specific cycling areas, such as sprinting, anaerobic efforts (a lot of watts), vo2 efforts, uphills, downhills etc. Not just the average difference. Thanks.
Great video! My problem is I do more road cycling without a road bike. So I don’t know the difference in gravel/road, various tire width, frame material….especially since I am riding a front suspension-hard tail mountain bike on my rides.
I bought a canyon endurance AL rim brake bike just recently for just about €1000. Maybe one of the most underrated canyon bikes. Swapped out the tyres for some Schwalbe pro ones. Bought DT Swiss oxic Aluminium wheels which are as light as carbon but don’t cost the earth and do brake properly. The bike just feels great and I enjoy it as much as I do riding my s-works SL 7. There is something special with the simplicity it has.
The bike I need is the one that gets me from place A to B in a comfy and safe way. The bike I want gets me competitive compared to my mates on group rides :D
Indeed! I ride the endurance Al with 105 and the differences compared to my canyon ultimate carbon bike are negligible. The endurance fits 35mm tires, so it's also good on light gravel 😊
I bought the endurace 6 AL last year, one tier below the one in the video. Most expensive and high end bike I've ever owned, first new bike even, and it's great, everything I could need for a long time. The bike doesn't hold me back, any improvement I could make is easier made to my fitness than bought in components. I dont think anyone would find a genuine limitation riding a CF 7 (the affordable bike in the videos components on a carbon fibre frame, €2,000 bike) unless they're a pro, I hope any spending beyond that is just pure enjoyment for people.
I've got two bikes, one is consistently 0.5mph faster than the other over a regular 23 mile out and back i do in the evenings. Literally the only place io notice is on the clock.
Not sure on new bikes but as a junior I brought a 8spd Sora equipped bikes, from day 1 brakes weren't great and noticed cheap short cuts on things like derailleur not having bearings on jockey wheels, so replaced brake pads and jockey wheels with some BBB bearing upgrades. Then the shifting was pretty ordinary with the small sora thumb lever. Rode this for 3 years and started to jump out of gears, up and down, derailleur and worn shifter. Had alot of km by then race wheels so cassette wasn't the issue. Got changed onto a Campagnolo Record 10spd and everything was nicer more precise shifting and brakes. Shifting smoothly up hills. Noticed they make claris under sora now.
It's always a want vs. need......😂 I found after resisting so long from electronic shifting and rotor braking I was missing a great deal. There is a caveat to that.......I did not do the high end want, but rather a compromise in the tier of componetry. I opted Cannondale SuperSixEvo with true wireless shifting with SRAM Rival AXS. I did get new wheels from the OEM and there I went with Spinergy FCC32 full carbon with the SRAM XDR titanium freehub as a upgrade then replaced the DUB bottom bracket with a BBInfinite. The result is a good cross of road cycling on flats, mashing climbs, and descending with confidence. Great video and comparison.
The bike I need is my Cannondale CAAD8 entry level bike. The bike I wanted was my Cannondale CAAD8 with a Shimano 105 groupset and some DT Swiss wheels, which I’ve just purchased thanks to some nice discounts.
A $50 used bike from a co-op store would do the job just fine, but at the end of the day, if the luxury/expensive bike gives you the self esteem to ride every day and you can’t wait to use it every chance you have, then it’s a good investment. When I was at university, I used to ride a cheap single speed from the có-op store, and it was fine. I’m now riding a s-works SL7 and I find it more enjoyable.
I own a 2022 Endurace AL6. I primarily ride MTB so when I needed a road bike I bought the cheapest bike with all the modern standards. At $1600 USD that was the Canyon. I'm having a bit of an issue with the BB but I do love it. It does everything I need it to do and I am always the week link not the bike.
A little of both. Instantly fell in love with the bike I want. Never had a new bike so my taste is simple. Ended up finding the bike used in good shape. Saved 1,300.00 on a Cosmic Stallion.
I guess the main reason for the 37 seconds are the different rider positions. You should have mentioned that in the video. Everything else: Good video!
In my opinion, a $100.00 mountain bike is great, even for roads and paved trails, particularly if one gets some smooth (versus knobby) tires and puts them on. Along this line of thinking, speed is all relative, and what seems to be important is the exercise we get and the fun we have. Of course I am writing from the experience of cycling alone....
Just a hybrid/fun/fitness/commuter rider here. Want: Giant Fastroad Need: Giant Escape But I still don't know how much better the Fastroad is gonna perform for double the price of Escape.
What makes you happy is getting what you want. Of course no normal person needs expensive bike but if it makes you happy to have one, go for it. Chase your dreams, life is too short to be just 'fine'.
I think the aeroad is absolutely gorgeous. That's what I really wanted but am super happy with my ultimate and would recommend it every day of the week.
Started riding again after years, purchased a Trek fx2 and then a Giant contend AR1. I like the giant and have been putting miles on it. I'm going to start doing group rides and events soon. Best exercise I've gotten in a long while.
I have the bike I need for commuting in the city and the bike I want for long rides in the country on the weekends. And yes, the bike I want is more agile and responsive, but the bike I need certainly gets the job done.
Always great info in your Videos. I have an old Biachi Via Narone that I desperately want to trade on for a new 'fancy' bike but the honest truth is the gains don't match the financial pain for an old Weekend warrior like me.
The main think what you need to invest is a high quality per of wheels they make huge different ,I increased my average speed by 4km/h with same watts that insane!
I just bought a Rose XLite 06 with a SRAM Force. That will most certainly do the job for me and its half of what the canyon would cost and almost the same weight.
A great return to form for GCN after that "Why Does A Road Bike Cost As Much As A Motorbike?" dumpster fire. This is what I was subscribed for. Keep up the good work!
I have the bike I need, actually two: 4130 Chromoly frames and forks; aluminum box section rims; rim brakes; three speed IGH. One is a dropbar and runs slightly narrower (32mm) tires than the other (35mm). I don’t race and I don’t live in the Alps or the Rockies. What I have gets me everywhere I want to go. All out race bikes are impressive but would be wasted on me.
I bought used Tarmac SL6, what a machine ! ~7kg, rolls sooo better than my previous Tarmac SL4. no new bike (for less than 5-7k) can't compete with it !
Great to see GCN comparing pro peloton bikes with budget bikes, but there’s a massive range in between these extremes in the market where riders can probably find a closer match between the bike they need and the bike they want.
I have a made in England Raleigh Super Course with a tall frame (I'm 6:2) that was probably built in the late 1970's. It weighs about 17 pounds. Archaic compared to the bikes available in 2024. It works well for me & does not cost what a lot of contempoary bikes cost.
Great content! I would love to see an overlay of you riding profile on the two bikes, looks like you'd be sitting up higher on the alloy bike judging by the top tube angle?
Yes, I discovered I'm faster on a less aero bike - Langma, and out ride the latest Madone SLR 9 with all its ceramics. (Slightly jealous of the machine). My $800 bike leaves the $13000 wanting my back wheel for a draft. That being said, if there's a down hill 😅 I get dropped. I want an Aeroad since Manon did a video with her Canyon back in the day. It's such a beautiful bike..!
I really wanted an aero bike. Bought one. Then I realised I needed a climbing bike. Sold the aero. Bought the climbing bike. Feel better for it - and Strava segment confirms it was also faster choice!
Still riding my 2010 Giant TCR with the original 105 mechanical. I upgrade to a set of Chinese carbon wheels a couple years ago - big difference! It’s getting old and I’d say my fitness is worthy of a better bike, but I can still drop the guys riding $8-12k bikes on group rides and it’s a great feeling! Should I upgrade to a new group-set ? Been thinking that might make for a smoother ride.
I like this video, Alex keeping it casual and fun. Its weird to say but, yeah most your viewers probably dont care about or cant afford the marginal stuff more than as to see where the used market will be for us in 5 years
I normaly prefere bikes that are not as expensive as the most modern racebikes. So the blue one here looks quite pretty in my eyes. But if I realy had to buy one, I would choose one with a 105 groupset and not with a Sora.
Do you have the bike you NEED or the bike you WANT? 🤔 Let us know in the comments! 👇
Before watching, I always save for the bike I want, I saw someone say carbon saddle, tubular 22mm (narrow) and high psi uncomfortable, I find it so comfortable and quick that I am looking at a morph suit lycra but as hate legs and arms not covered
Retiring my Specialized Allez Race (2014) in the coming spring. It has served me well and regular cleaning and maintenance lends a hand in the upkeep of the bike. Fall/Winter project is building a Specialized Allez Sprint with 105 11-speed mechanical. I don't have the funds to go "full Di2 bananas" and ride 4 to 6 days a week for nothing but health reasons and the peace of mind that an hour or two on the bike brings.
Both in one bike.
I have the bike I need for commuting.
There is an old saying: "never meet your idols". It is thus good to lend a top-spec'd bike to verify if it is really the one you want.
"If you need to buy top spec components, you probably don't need them." Agreed!
I'm trying to understand what this means, it makes no sense to me.
@@gregmorrison7320you are either good enough to be part of a team/be sponsored and therefore be provided such equipment or it is not necessary to buy high end parts
@@gregmorrison7320 Pro's typically don't pay for their top-spec components as their team or sponsor provides the bike. Everyone else pays for top-spec parts and thus probably don't need them because they aren't pros that make a living off of riding.
@@buster.keaton but definitely agree with the sentiment that they are nice to have. My 10+ year old DuraAce still works flawlessly.
@@Philatlondon1 I have a 25yo dura ace bike and it's holding up just fine! I never regretted buying it...and I doubt I will regret buying my new Dura Ace Bike either! If you have the money to burn on something extra nice and you understand that it's not going to make you fast on its own, enjoy!
A friend of mine spent many thousands of dollars to save grams, yet he's 40lbs overweight.
I’m late to the video but yes, saving grams is only important for a few people. Especially when just the action of cycling will help shed more than those few grams.
The most significant upgrade I've made to my bike has been weight lost! Now at 15kg down with every kilo affording me new PB's on my ride!
@@MrAk749, good job, brother. Your body and your bike thank you ;-)
Reminds me of a former co-worker. He went out spending thousands of dollars on a Bowflex to get in shape yet every Saturday he'd bring in a box of Italian pastries.
Some people hope to compensate their lazyness with money 😂
Which works to some degree but is obviously not the best strategy
Great to see GCN pushing this stance. 👍 Small cost tweeks to your setup, can keep your existing bike relevant to your needs, or buying 2nd hand top of the range rim brake bikes from 5-10yrs ago, for next to nothing. Cost of new bikes over last 3-4 years is ridiculous, really poor bang for buck. I've kept my 2016 Boardman Pro SLR relevant to my needs and capability. As This video shows, running GP5000's with latex tubes (and fitting decent rim tape), immersive hot waxing my chain (a game changer), and fine running my position on my bike, getting lower. You don't need to spend your hard earned cash on a new (ridiculously priced) bike. Best bang for buck performance improvements are with the lump sitting on top of the bike 😉
I totally agree with everything you said...except for the latex tubes. Replace those latex tubes with TPU tubes and you'll save yourself about 200 grams in the most important part of the bike-the outer perimeter of the wheel. I run Continental GP5000 tires with RideNow TPU tubes and I can definitely notice the lower rotational inertia with the TPU tubes.
@@SignorLuigi Totally agree, already replaced my spare Butyl tube with TPU (fitting
Latex tubes is best done in comfort of home, not out on the road). However I just love the comfort and ride feel of Latex tubes. Also I weight 59kg's, so a few 100grams savings, not going to make much difference for my setup. But TPU definitely is the way to go for anyone still on butyl tubes. 👍
@@techboy86 Great response! 👍 👏👏👏 59kg!!!! You are THE WINNER!!! 🙌🙌🙌☺️
Totally agree. 90% of cycling performance is the rider, not the bike. If you want to make a car go faster do you upgrade the wheels or the engine?
@@SignorLuigi Note that is most important when accelerating.
When normally riding, rolling resistance is what matters the most.
When I was looking to buy a bike last year, the first bike I tried was the cheapest in the Specialized Diverge range. It ticked every box and I was ready to buy until the chap in my local bike shop convinced me to try a more expensive Diverge model too. I ended up taking a week to think about my purchase because the cheaper model did everything I needed, but the more expensive one was noticeably nicer to ride. I ultimately bought the cheaper model and haven't regretted it.
If one never rides a "nicer" bike one would never know how "crappy" his/her bike is..
*points to side of the head
@@ssenssel The inverse is also true. If you're afraid of buying budget, you will never know if and how much you overpay.
Specialized diverge with 105 would be A great starter bike !
Bought the next up from the bottom level Diverge and I'm very happy with this decision. It had mechanical shifting in a mullet setup with entry level SRAM hydraulic disc brakes. I'm upgrading the tyres and eventually the wheel set to tubeless. Second ride I hit something and seriously punctured. Was happy rims were aluminium as they culprit hit the rim and deflected off it instead of destroying it.
@@MaxMax-th7uzOr SRAM Apex (mechanical or electronic) is a great alternative.
I've been riding the Decathlon's Triban RC120 for a few years now, covering over 13,000 km on solo adventures. I've thoroughly enjoyed my time with this bike, but curiosity got the better of me recently, prompting me to join group rides. To my surprise, I've discovered that I can keep up comfortably with pack 2, although I do find it a bit challenging to stay with pack 1 in terms of performance.
One of the remarkable aspects of this bike is the element of surprise it brings to my fellow riders. They often turn their heads, expecting me to fall behind, but I manage to hold my own. This has allowed me to forge friendships more quickly within the group.
I’m thinking to buy my first road bike, and Literally I’m so confused looking at all the bikes in the market.
Should I go for Triban RC 120 disc, your help is greatly appreciated.
Love my RC100
@@kanishksood2871 I’m still riding it daily and it’s still going strong!
First class video. For the ‘average’ rider, what can beat a basic bike with good frameset, good components, and most important of all, generally easily serviceable at home. 👍👍👍
Absolutely!
I've got a specialised Allez sprint rim brake version, upgraded with Sram Red wireless and a specialized roval rapide handlebar, I would swap mine to this Canyon CFR
Spot on mate 👍
I built my own, very first and only road bike up from scratch. I purchased an 2010 trek 2.1 alpha frame and forks for £80 and built the rest up around it. I stripped it back to bare aluminium and painted the forks matte black which gave it a modern feel. I then went for the Shimano 105 groupset and purchased every part off eBay, some new 105 parts and some older. the most expensive was the newer version shifters which were £120 for the pair. I built it up and then got it properly serviced and set up and it is absolutely fantastic to ride. it surprises me evrytime I ride it just how fast road bikes are and this was for under £600. plus the added bonus of it being very personal and had me learn a lot along the way.
to add to the point of this video, I can honestly say that everytime I look to upgrading it, it is purely out of want, not need. I think if the right deal comes along, I will look at a newer more modern frameset. but purely out of want! bye
I feel like the Shimano 105 groupset would be even more interesting to bring this point home, because apart from the weight, there isn't that much difference between it and DuraAce.
While Tiagra and Sora are good for somebody who starts out and wants to check out if this whole cycling thing is for him/her, other groupsets are objectively better.
But for someone who sticks to cycling the argument can be made that apart from the weight, there isn't that much benefit from upgrading from the 105 to higher end groupsets.
The same argument can be made for Campagnolo Chorus vs. Record and Super Record. Feels similar, shifts similar, brakes similar. But it's lighter.
Now I would argue that most of the subscribers, me included, could save more weight through bringing their body weight down before the expensive weight saving of a better groupset makes sense.
All that being said, I gotta wrap this comment up because it's Sunday and I'm on my way to ride my Super Record EPS equipped Italian aero bike 😅
(TL;DR it isn't reasonable, but it's so much fun)
I wonder if the difference would be so significant, if both bikes were on 12s group (AL could get new, mechanical 105, which probably will happen next year) and cassettes 11-34. Because 11 or less speed 11-34 is rather… suboptimal.
I think you are absolutly right ! There is a big difference betwen a 1000 € and a 13 000€ bike, but I don't think there is such a big difference bewteen a good 3000€ bike and a 13 000€ bike. 3000 € gets you 105 groupset, good carbon frame, good wheels without to much compromise.
Sora is a very good groupset (and I'm not somebody that just started out)
A new Allez Sport with Sora R3000 (cheaper hubs and brakes) can be had for $750. Swap the brakes for a set of R7000 105 Dual Pivots and it's not a bad deal for an entry level bike. Get better quality hubs when you replace the wheels down the road.
That said an R7000 group with brakes is under $500 new now and would be a great way to go if you find a deal on the right frameset.
One thing to think about is the fact that the 11 speeds have significantly faster wear on consumables than 9 speeds due to reduced surface area.
Nice to see GCN producing this style of video. Far too many people think they need 105 or better components when it is just what they want. My cousin recently purchased a Trek Domane with Sora specked components and she loves it.
Always enjoy Alex’s positivity. Great presenter
The law of diminishing returns for road bikes -- for non-racers and non-pros -- begins kicking in at around $1000 US. For almost everyone who will go anywhere on a road bike anywhere in the world today, an aluminum frame, aluminum wheels, a 2x drive train, and nothing electric or hydraulic is the right answer. For example, a Giant Contend with Claris drivetrain and Tektro rim brakes can be had today for under $1000 US. I suspect it's nothing special in the eyes of people watching this channel, but it's a bike that provides a lot of fun, can be ridden fast, and if not abused will last the average rider for decades with nothing more than routine maintenance a rider can perform with basic tools. Super light and super "aero" carbon fiber, no-cables-showing hyperbikes are for people who earn their livelihood going fast on a bike. That's almost none of us. Spending more gets you more, but the progression is far from linear. I'd guess there's not a single pro rider who can go 25% faster on his or her $15,000 hyperbike than on a sub-$1000 base Contend, let alone 15X faster. It's probably in the 10% faster range. Clearly that's a no-go for a pro, but it's no big deal for most of us, especially given the other things the $14,000 saved can buy.
I purchased the Canyon Endurace CF7 Disc (about $2000, carbon and Shimano 105) and have since added my preferred saddle (Gilles Berthoud Galibier) and a set of Roval Alpinist CL II wheels with Continental GP5000 tires and TPU tubes. I'll continue to make component upgrades here and there but I am extremely satisfied with this and would have no plans to change the 105 groupset and will likely not need a new bike for a long time. My goal is, as the Endurace name suggests, a fast endurance bike that is comfortable on long rides and lightweight for climbing (lots of hills in my area.) As the bike sits now, it weighs 7.9kg, but that Gilles Berthoud saddle is leather and weighs 5-7oz more than your typical carbon saddle, however, in terms of comfort (and looks!) I am willing to take the weight penalty. With additional component upgrades going forward (not in a big hurry,) the bike will likely end up around 7.5kg. Of course I am not a professional, but I am a serious amateur focusing on building my skill, speed, fitness and endurance, and I do like to get into the weeds with tweaking the bike with upgrades, etc. Obsessing over that stuff brings its own fun and interest, just be mindful of your wallet and don't go beyond your means - not to mention, it can teach you to work on, maintain or build your own bikes. Didn't mean to write a book here but oh well.
I was going to say, replace the 105 cassette with an Ultegra when the time comes since to 105 is pretty heavy in comparison. But, as long as you maintain and replace your chain when needed, the 105 cassette virtually lasts forever.
So you got a 2000$ Bike and 1500$ wheels additional? Are they really that good? I really Like the bike
That Endurance AL is definitely the sort of bike i need and want. Easy to maintain, parts will be cheap to replace, more versatile.
on that bike the prats you will want to replace will be the saddle and the tire, rest won't break unless you abuse them...
Crash your $8000 bike one time as a recreational rider and you’ll rethink your priorities.
At 8K I’d 100% pay for insurance and mine does include full replacement at ~160/year for a 3400€ bike. My main concern was theft but crashes are just covered by default apparently
😂
I say, if you are going to buy a ridiculously expensive bike, buy all the expensive components and then put them on a lightweight metal frame. You still got the experience of the nice kit, but a crash won’t take out your bike. I have a high-end custom steel bike with Campagnolo super record EPS wireless 12 speed and I’m never going to worry about a crash. Any crash bad enough to wreck a steel or titanium bike is probably going to kill you. Aluminum is more fragile, but even the most expensive aluminum frames are quite affordable in comparison.
Good to see GCN keeping perspective on what "average riders" (if there is such a thing!) need/want. I'm only a few months back in to cycling haven't not ridden much since my teens on a steel road bike with downtube shifters.
£650 is pretty cheap by bike standards, but that got me a Sora equipped gravel bike that is perfect for my current needs and the terrain I ride on. Plus on my local park loop the first time I rode it I went 10 minutes quicker than I had done on the borrowed MTB I had been riding before that!
Sounds ideal!
A couple of years ago I got a brand new Endurace AL 7 with fulll set 11-speed Shimano 105 including 105 hydraulic disc brakes, tubeless compatible DT Swiss wheels and Continential Grand Prix 28c tyres. It was $1,550. More than enough bike that this weekend warrior will ever need...
Great video. My wife and I just bought Cannondale synapse AL bikes. The leftover previous generation. I got 105 and she got tiagra. Guess what? Hers rides way better than mine out of the gate simply because the tech at the bike shop where she got hers spent more time setting it up and did a better job getting the derailleurs right. Mine has had to go back in twice. In the end, both bikes are great but it just goes to show there is more to it than just the group set.
How have you been liking it so far? Been riding a Cannondale hybrid for 10 years, but it’s not really doing it for me anymore
The endurace doesn't come with vision carbon wheels and $100 tyres. That alone could drop over 1kg of weight + rolling resistance decrease
But they're just the sort of upgrade you're likely to make on a cheap bike, since upgrading wheels and tyres is normally the biggest change you can make.
Endurace comes with GP 5000 for several years now which are among the best in respect to rolling resistance and weight. The carbon wheels save probably more around 300g?
No way inexpensive carbon wheels saving 1000 grams
@user-op2tr4qn9t the wheels would be 1400g and alloy wheels are almost always between 2.4 and 2.8kg for the same depth
And I know because my giant tcr came with stock alloy wheels that are 2.4kg that I will be upgrading
I just got hold of a second hand aluminium Emonda ALR5 for around $1000 and it’s absolutely all that I need even though I’d always dreamed of a higher end carbon Emonda.
The alu model will likely last a decade or two. I dunno how well a carbon frame will age.
I like alu.
Contentment is a valuable currency.
It's such a good frame!
same as mee broo,i like my Emonda soo much,never gonna sell it :)
I switch between bikes often during the week, and the hugest difference is the tire setup. I commute/train on the Cinturato Velo tire, and that thing is a tank of a tire. I will be about 1-1.5mph slower on that one, with same pwoer output. Do I care? No, because the tire is tough. BUT, if I use a GP5000, the bike is considerably more comfortable (supple is the word), and it sticks better to the road. It is definitely a faster tire and will alter the ride for sure. Anything else, meh, not so sure it matters as much as you're lead to believe. Cool video, next up, change the headset bearings on each bike!
Sounds like you've got the perfect setup!
@@gcntech I've just got hold of a set of Mavic deep section carbon rim brake wheels. They feel (and are) significantly faster than the box section Mavic wheels they replaced and I'm setting Strava bests without even trying at the moment.
8 years ago, I saw my dream bike. Viper Red Trek Madone SLR, and was completely swept off my feet by SRAM's 1st Gen Red eTap. A couple months ago I bought the frame and finished my custom Madone SLR build with ENVE Foundation wheels and Red AXS groupset. I get chills riding it as well as looking at it.
You really can have your cake and eat it too. Just don't have kids 😉
If you need to save for 8 years to buy a bike, kids aren't the problem.
@@Qlicky I didn't say I saved for 8 years, it just happened to be 8 years after I saw an aero bike for the first time, the SRAM groupset, and finally decided to build one my own.
@@M3GRSD You didn't, but the kids remark implied it.
Why wait 8 years if it was that good to sweep you off your feet and give you chills?
Bike over having kids - what a dumb idea that is
@@wawbagel You're idea of dumb is someone's else's ideal life. I'm entitled to my opinions, as you are yours.
Yes, tires were a massive difference, I couldn't believe it till I tried it.
Tire pressure is another huge factor I overlooked until recently. I always just jumped on the bike without checking the pressure and it slowed me down a ton.
Endurace was my gateway drug into carbon frames and electronic shifting. Loved it - but not as much as I love my S-Works Crux 😂
When I came to purchase my first carbon bike almost 20 years ago, I was advised that it couldn't accommodate my weight and I purchased the bike I need. Two years later, after losing significant weight, I went straight back in to the same bike store and purchased the most expensive Colnago fitted with Super Record in the store. Not because I needed it, but purely out of spite :-)
I’m looking to buy a new bike next spring. I needed to see this content. Thank you. Ride to the level of your smile. 🚴♂️😃
a dream bike is a mix of these two : currently a caad 12 disc upgraded , best bike i ever owned and planning to build a rim brake one :D
back to rim brakes 🙈😂 may I ask why?
Sounds like a nice project!
The CAAD12 is one of the only bikes were I don't want a disc brake version because of the rear open dropouts, making wheelset upgrades tricky to deal with. Nice move on planning to get a rim brake counterpart. Found your size yet?
Would be nice to see a more middle of the pack 2k or 3k bike. To see where the benefits drop off.
Agreed! There is the most profit for the price.
If the canyon ultimate 105 version would be with integrated cables. For sure it would be my first choice, if going for a new bike, the frame is amazing and race minded, and can go for a bit of off road aswell with 35mm tires
@@bernardo9202 i own the new ulimate cf ultra for 3200€, and im very happy with it and could achieve quite nice results in gran fondo races already (100km - 2:21h)
yea, sram apex/force and hydraulic brakes are available (especially when including deals) when searching just 200-300 higher than this lower-tier bike and would improve it enough to make those diminishing returns-claims even more extreme
Get the Decathlon Triban RC520 - i05 groupset and cost ~$1000
I started with a cheap Alu endurance bike… first I upgraded the wheels, then saddle, handlebars, group set and finally the frame. Really happy with it!!
Got a Giant Contend SL 1 Disc, first upgrade was tyres and now after almost 2 years I will switch my rims from the stock pr-2 to a reputable brand alloys with a bit deeper, stiffer and lighter profile with better hub. I am done with upgrades untill I have to change my tyres again.
I’m really digging the honesty in this video! Kudos to you all I really enjoyed it and agreed with a lot!
Never want to replace a frayed/snapped shift cable ever again, so I think electronic shifting is worth the extra money. Disc brakes are a must. Work much better in wet conditions from my experience.
Loved the vid as it really demonstrated the point of need vs want vs joy of riding. I've upgraded over the years as I've gotten into road cycling in part needing better equipment as well as being able to afford better equipment like I've done in other hobbies. When you reach a certain point when you can take advantage of better equipment you need it.
Now that I'm older(57yrs) I've appreciated that while I no longer can truly take advantage of levels of quality, it is nice to have because I can afford it and appreciate on what it provides given my current state of affairs. In truth for most of us it will be a balance of want vs need with need overruling more often that not 😜
The Canyon Roadlite 7 is an interesting bike also. Yes it has flat bars and Al frame. But still only 9.2kg and Ultegra drivetrain. No wonder it is sold out at $900.
There are lots of great bikes out there in that $900-1800 range.
Makes me wish that I was shopping for a new bike again.
You look very comfortable on the blue bike
I’ve got the bike I need at the moment - it’s been dependable, affordable, and fun!
That being said; with a substantial increase in fitness, better knowledge of the geography where I live, a growing group of friends who ride, and a desire to go faster and climb higher, I’ll soon be purchasing the bike I want.
I am glad there are cheap(ish) entry-level road bikes out there that can scratch the itch that we all have. It’s also a great feeling to outgrow those and move onto something that keeps challenging us and continuing the love affair with cycling.
This is a much needed video. Just ride your bike. Enjoy riding. Technology advancements get in the way of contentment and enjoyment.
We couldn't agree more!
This needs to be a mandatory disclaimer statement attached to the beginning of every bike channel.
If you‘re on a budget, the durability matters as well - can I ride it for 10-15 years?
No one needs a Porsche or a Ferrari but they are nice things to enjoy.
For some (me) researching bikes/frames/ components then saving up to buy them so you can discuss them with other enthusiasts is part of the fun.
Congrats to this honest video! 😊In 2020 I bought a cube attain race, they didn't have the 105 version I was looking for, but after testing it I thought : hey it will do!
All I changed was the saddle and the tires.
My sora in my Kona rove still is the best groupware I’ve had thus far. It’s been working great so far.
I agree with the tire upgrade. I was surprised how much better my Emonda SL5 completely changed. To me, the Emonda SL5 2019 (the last of the rim brake model) is the most perfect road bike. Comfort, light, responsive and with the people's group set, you really can't go wrong. It ticked all the boxes for me and the price was right.
I am very much considering getting that exact Canyon, even colour, as my commute bike. This video couldn't have come at a better time.
What tyres did you get?
@@IbnTariq007 Continental Ultra Sport III Folding PureGrip and those are the cheaper ones. I'm told that once I upgrade to the Grand Prix 5000 it will be even better. Give it a try. The ones I got are the budget ones.
That's why I like the used market for the bikes you WANT. The bike you WANT at the price you kind-of sort-of WANT ;) It would also be interesting to hear GCN Tech's take on comparing the longevity / maintenance of these components (where this video seems more about the performance and feel).
I totally rate the more cost friendly bikes. One bit of kit on them that from experience I do not rate is mechanical disc brakes. Recently upgraded to hydraulics and it is night and day...
Bought a Giant Contend AR with Tiagra during lockdown. I was chatting recently with a bloke who has a very expensive bike and he was trying to persuade me to buy a new bike, I simply pointed out that it does everything I need and getting a lighter faster bike would be pointless until I shift the 10kg that makes me the teardrop shape in lycra. Also 32mm tubeless tyres are a very good thing.
I literally have a Allez ❤ with upgraded tyres tubes and levers prefect 👍 The bike I need
Specialized's last rim brake Allez?
Absolutely love this video and the view on these insane prices 😅 i have an entry level aluminium bike with shimano sora and boy it feels great to be faster than people with top end bikes in races 😊 however i would love to get hydraulic breaks someday, for me they add so much more comfort and are definitely a must have on the next bike!
100% on the brakes. I *almost* upgraded my bike earlier this year to Tiagara levers keeping mechanical discs, but then lucked into a take-off GRX400 groupset. I'm so happy I did, the brakes were kinda difficult to set up but they are *so* worth it in performance.
Thank you from a guy who has a bike he needs. I really enjoy the videos where you talk to the other 99% of us "enthusiasts"
i'm riding a supersix evo from 2014. its a super super bike. very comfortable and 'fast'. and yes. the tires make the biggest difference to any bike, thank you for mentioning that ( its a pet peeve of mine when anyone tests a 30 year old bike ( with old tires ) and then finds the new 'aero' bike much faster.
The bike I need is my MTB with fat slicks, as huge contact patches and rotors are vital when some rectumhole ignores traffic laws.
Still love riding the road bike because of superior ergonomics🙂
Both. From an '86 ALAN Carbonio to an '82 Colnago Superissimo, '85 Bridgestone T700, '01 LOOK KG381 and '95 Wheeler (single speed). I just found a '22 LOOK 795 hydraulic discs, electric shifting and CF wheels. I'll get it Thursday. Way beyond my capabilities but at 82 everything is. See me grin at my stable.
I got an expensive Supersix and an inexpensive Grizl and I love them both ❤
Nice video! Thanks for the information. It would be also helpful to show the differences of these two bikes in specific cycling areas, such as sprinting, anaerobic efforts (a lot of watts), vo2 efforts, uphills, downhills etc. Not just the average difference. Thanks.
Great comparison video. I went half way between the bike I needed and the bike I wanted as a little indulgence
Nice! Check out our 'Superbike' film on GCN+ for a look at the ultimate climbing bike! 👉 gcn.eu/superbike
Same. I got a Roadmachine One.
Great video!
My problem is I do more road cycling without a road bike. So I don’t know the difference in gravel/road, various tire width, frame material….especially since I am riding a front suspension-hard tail mountain bike on my rides.
I bought a canyon endurance AL rim brake bike just recently for just about €1000. Maybe one of the most underrated canyon bikes. Swapped out the tyres for some Schwalbe pro ones. Bought DT Swiss oxic Aluminium wheels which are as light as carbon but don’t cost the earth and do brake properly. The bike just feels great and I enjoy it as much as I do riding my s-works SL 7. There is something special with the simplicity it has.
My favourite bike too. Did 45.000km, zero issues. 7.6kg with pedals.
This with Di2 would be 👌🏻
The bike I need is the one that gets me from place A to B in a comfy and safe way.
The bike I want gets me competitive compared to my mates on group rides :D
The 105 version of this bike is brilliant. Really all you need.
Yes have endurance AL with 105
Indeed! I ride the endurance Al with 105 and the differences compared to my canyon ultimate carbon bike are negligible. The endurance fits 35mm tires, so it's also good on light gravel 😊
I bought the endurace 6 AL last year, one tier below the one in the video. Most expensive and high end bike I've ever owned, first new bike even, and it's great, everything I could need for a long time. The bike doesn't hold me back, any improvement I could make is easier made to my fitness than bought in components. I dont think anyone would find a genuine limitation riding a CF 7 (the affordable bike in the videos components on a carbon fibre frame, €2,000 bike) unless they're a pro, I hope any spending beyond that is just pure enjoyment for people.
I've got two bikes, one is consistently 0.5mph faster than the other over a regular 23 mile out and back i do in the evenings. Literally the only place io notice is on the clock.
Get it out for those Strava efforts then 😉
Not sure on new bikes but as a junior I brought a 8spd Sora equipped bikes, from day 1 brakes weren't great and noticed cheap short cuts on things like derailleur not having bearings on jockey wheels, so replaced brake pads and jockey wheels with some BBB bearing upgrades. Then the shifting was pretty ordinary with the small sora thumb lever. Rode this for 3 years and started to jump out of gears, up and down, derailleur and worn shifter. Had alot of km by then race wheels so cassette wasn't the issue. Got changed onto a Campagnolo Record 10spd and everything was nicer more precise shifting and brakes. Shifting smoothly up hills. Noticed they make claris under sora now.
It's always a want vs. need......😂
I found after resisting so long from electronic shifting and rotor braking I was missing a great deal. There is a caveat to that.......I did not do the high end want, but rather a compromise in the tier of componetry. I opted Cannondale SuperSixEvo with true wireless shifting with SRAM Rival AXS. I did get new wheels from the OEM and there I went with Spinergy FCC32 full carbon with the SRAM XDR titanium freehub as a upgrade then replaced the DUB bottom bracket with a BBInfinite. The result is a good cross of road cycling on flats, mashing climbs, and descending with confidence.
Great video and comparison.
The bike I need is my Cannondale CAAD8 entry level bike. The bike I wanted was my Cannondale CAAD8 with a Shimano 105 groupset and some DT Swiss wheels, which I’ve just purchased thanks to some nice discounts.
Love your videos! Nailing the subject every time and adding a bit of humour to it. Professional editing! Very refreshing!
A $50 used bike from a co-op store would do the job just fine, but at the end of the day, if the luxury/expensive bike gives you the self esteem to ride every day and you can’t wait to use it every chance you have, then it’s a good investment. When I was at university, I used to ride a cheap single speed from the có-op store, and it was fine. I’m now riding a s-works SL7 and I find it more enjoyable.
'Speed Demon' Darby, workin' the pedals on two differrent bikes, on opposite ends of the price spectrum! Brilliant!
I own a 2022 Endurace AL6. I primarily ride MTB so when I needed a road bike I bought the cheapest bike with all the modern standards. At $1600 USD that was the Canyon. I'm having a bit of an issue with the BB but I do love it. It does everything I need it to do and I am always the week link not the bike.
A little of both. Instantly fell in love with the bike I want. Never had a new bike so my taste is simple. Ended up finding the bike used in good shape. Saved 1,300.00 on a Cosmic Stallion.
Thanks for this video. I was actually shocked by the 37 second difference over 13kms.
I guess the main reason for the 37 seconds are the different rider positions. You should have mentioned that in the video.
Everything else: Good video!
My bike , less than 900 new (claris domane2 , over 2 years upgraded wheels tyres ,tubes, new handlebar. Now got dream bike.😊
I couldn't be happier with my Lynskey sportive. It's comfy, fast, and extremely cost effective. Best 1000 quid I ever spent.
In my opinion, a $100.00 mountain bike is great, even for roads and paved trails, particularly if one gets some smooth (versus knobby) tires and puts them on. Along this line of thinking, speed is all relative, and what seems to be important is the exercise we get and the fun we have. Of course I am writing from the experience of cycling alone....
Just a hybrid/fun/fitness/commuter rider here.
Want: Giant Fastroad
Need: Giant Escape
But I still don't know how much better the Fastroad is gonna perform for double the price of Escape.
What makes you happy is getting what you want. Of course no normal person needs expensive bike but if it makes you happy to have one, go for it. Chase your dreams, life is too short to be just 'fine'.
I am still enjoying my £300 gt grade 107 bough barely used in 2018. Instead of upgrading I got hardtail mtb and now can watch gcn and gmbn 😂
Just got a second hand surly midnight special with a carbon fork and 700c wheels. I think it’s a good happy spot of need and want
I think the aeroad is absolutely gorgeous. That's what I really wanted but am super happy with my ultimate and would recommend it every day of the week.
Started riding again after years, purchased a Trek fx2 and then a Giant contend AR1. I like the giant and have been putting miles on it. I'm going to start doing group rides and events soon. Best exercise I've gotten in a long while.
I have the bike I need for commuting in the city and the bike I want for long rides in the country on the weekends. And yes, the bike I want is more agile and responsive, but the bike I need certainly gets the job done.
Always great info in your Videos. I have an old Biachi Via Narone that I desperately want to trade on for a new 'fancy' bike but the honest truth is the gains don't match the financial pain for an old Weekend warrior like me.
The main think what you need to invest is a high quality per of wheels they make huge different ,I increased my average speed by 4km/h with same watts that insane!
I just bought a Rose XLite 06 with a SRAM Force. That will most certainly do the job for me and its half of what the canyon would cost and almost the same weight.
Cable discs are an absolute no-go. Better go cable rim brakes. Other than that, perfect bike
A great return to form for GCN after that "Why Does A Road Bike Cost As Much As A Motorbike?" dumpster fire. This is what I was subscribed for. Keep up the good work!
I definitely ride now a bike that I WANT, after selling the bike that I NEED. And I'm not going back. The riding experience outweighs everything else.
That's great! What bike did you go for?
@@gcntech Wilier Filante SLR.
I have the bike I need, actually two: 4130 Chromoly frames and forks; aluminum box section rims; rim brakes; three speed IGH. One is a dropbar and runs slightly narrower (32mm) tires than the other (35mm). I don’t race and I don’t live in the Alps or the Rockies. What I have gets me everywhere I want to go. All out race bikes are impressive but would be wasted on me.
Sounds like you've got your perfect garage sorted!
I bought used Tarmac SL6, what a machine ! ~7kg, rolls sooo better than my previous Tarmac SL4. no new bike (for less than 5-7k) can't compete with it !
Great to see GCN comparing pro peloton bikes with budget bikes, but there’s a massive range in between these extremes in the market where riders can probably find a closer match between the bike they need and the bike they want.
Glad Gcn finally making stuff we Wana see. Kuddos to Hambini and peak torque for breathing down Gcn's neck
I have a made in England Raleigh Super Course with a tall frame (I'm 6:2) that was probably built in the late 1970's. It weighs about 17 pounds. Archaic compared to the bikes available in 2024. It works well for me & does not cost what a lot of contempoary bikes cost.
Great content! I would love to see an overlay of you riding profile on the two bikes, looks like you'd be sitting up higher on the alloy bike judging by the top tube angle?
In most cases, just like cars the money spent is usually shown cased on how much they have, not necessarily need.
Very happy with my entry level Giant Road bike. Just need a bike fitting and i am fast and comfortable!
Sounds like you've got it sorted!
Yes, I discovered I'm faster on a less aero bike - Langma, and out ride the latest Madone SLR 9 with all its ceramics. (Slightly jealous of the machine). My $800 bike leaves the $13000 wanting my back wheel for a draft. That being said, if there's a down hill 😅 I get dropped. I want an Aeroad since Manon did a video with her Canyon back in the day. It's such a beautiful bike..!
I really wanted an aero bike. Bought one.
Then I realised I needed a climbing bike.
Sold the aero. Bought the climbing bike.
Feel better for it - and Strava segment confirms it was also faster choice!
Still riding my 2010 Giant TCR with the original 105 mechanical. I upgrade to a set of Chinese carbon wheels a couple years ago - big difference!
It’s getting old and I’d say my fitness is worthy of a better bike, but I can still drop the guys riding $8-12k bikes on group rides and it’s a great feeling!
Should I upgrade to a new group-set ? Been thinking that might make for a smoother ride.
This is the most meaningful episode that GCN has done. Thank you.
Glad you liked it! For a taste of what a 'want' bike can be, why not check out our 'Superbike' film on GCN+ 👉 gcn.eu/superbike
I like this video, Alex keeping it casual and fun. Its weird to say but, yeah most your viewers probably dont care about or cant afford the marginal stuff more than as to see where the used market will be for us in 5 years
I normaly prefere bikes that are not as expensive as the most modern racebikes.
So the blue one here looks quite pretty in my eyes.
But if I realy had to buy one, I would choose one with a 105 groupset and not with a Sora.
If you can use same wheels in those 2 different bikes, after that tell different beetween of them Low budget bike can tune up with good wheels