Mount the wheel center cutout back on the truck axle. That gives you a make-shift lathe. Then use something heavy, a large vice or cement block as a tool mount; mount a hand grinder on it, and bring it incrementally closer to the outer surface to be trimmed while spinning the wheel. This insures both a controlled consistent cut AND true-to-center shape (the most important trait of a wheel).
yes that inner peace needs to be lathed off then it needs to be squared up in the rim, at LEAST measure up your center hub and or lug nuts tot he rim they all need to be EXACTLY the same then it needs to be plane matched as well or you can get a gallop, or a wobble, maybe both? like Norm says, the center should have been cut out in a lathe and then welded back up in a lathe, on small gallup or off center evena MM and its hale at speed, then if that center is not on the exact same plane as the rim the wobble sucks worse, if they are off to where its not noticable to the eye and you don't feel it can still be off enough to wear the tire poorly.. chuck em up on a lather and proof em, both directions see how you did...
Saw one of the vids from Pakistan where they did that to grind a flywheel....they got away with it too,,,,,At first when I saw this with the tennis shoes and working on the floor next to a bench I thought it WAS one of those vids, so why not make the truck into a lathe like they would do over there. Those fashion statement ripped pants are on that level too. Best way I know to catch yourself on fire while welding and burning,,,,even grinding. Hey, At least he isn't wearing shorts and Ho Chi Minh safety sandals like you see on theses vids all the time. ... Not sure how this is going to work at 60MPH down the freeway but he DID get the job done without getting hurt too bad so who am I to say? If it works for him DRIVE ON!
I did exactly this when building custom 5.5" wide beadlocks for a jeep (34x9.50 15 tires)... bolted centers to the rear axle, stuck 'er in 2nd gear and spun 'er up while using a 7" grinder to "lathe" the center to size. After pressing in the center to the wheel, I bolted it back up to spin (slowly) & used a runout gauge to square it up. I can run 70 MPH on 'em when I have to.
Exactly. Chad's method is NOT foolproof, because he is not functioning as a lathe. After tacking just a little, it is time to check by mounting this on a hub and spin that sucker and check it with a dial indicator -- pretty easy and fast check.
@doberfag I would just use a heavy bit of wire or rod and check the run out it's easy .done it lots with older truck wheel with no centers and using a wedged cleats
Chad Before you do the others check how true you got the first 2. You need a turntable or spindle to check the outer edge of the centre disc you cut is true before welding to the rim as even a millimetre (0.040") will cause a massive vibration as the wheel spins and you won't be able to drive on them. Would not want you to waste time effort and money doing this and not being able to use the rims. Love your work and great camera work as always Jolene.
3 bolts to triangulate a center drop the wheel center hole around the bolts... put a nut on the bolts to hold the wheel center down and just keep from wobbling (but not tight) then find a way to solidly mount the grinder at a set distance from center.(vice?) spin the wheel center and adjust the grinder distance a smidge at a time... itll center itself tighter than 0.005" once the grinder barely touches all the spokes of the rim as it spins past....as long as they all drag the same on the grinder with nearly no pressure. picture a lazy susan spinning by hand...and a grinder in a vice so it doesn't move
Michael Anderson, I have to agree with you sir, even though I have nothing against the way Chad is doing it, he’s done it before and it worked out fine. I work for a company here in Australia(22yrs),and all we do is make wheels for agriculture and the mining industry , anything on road has to be trued up within 40 thou otherwise any speed over 90klm/hr you will have issues, the company that I work for was previously owned by Titan USA 👍🇦🇺🇺🇸
2. After you've got the center trimmed and pounded into the rim, remount it on the truck axle, and spin it to check for true-ness, especially side to side wobble. Correct with hammer tap placement. and spot weld while on the axle.
When I did my 48 F6, I used rims off an early 70's Dodge motorhome. Bolted right up to the Ford axles. No more split rims. I ended up using everything from the motorhome. The wheels, axles, 440 engine and transmission so it really didn't matter that those rims fit on the Ford, lol. Love what you are doing.
I got 7 rims from a M500 chassis off of a 1975 Coachman. They bolted right up to my 52 F6. Even the lug nuts and tire tools crossed over. They are 19.5 tubeless, with tires widely available. The tires on my widow makers were too tall 8.25-20's that rubbed the back of the fenders on sharp turns. I don't miss that, but I do miss the widow maker look.
@@edcadieux3689 Yes, they are 5x8 with 3/4" studs, and 1 1/2" "self centering" lug nuts. I went to the hardware store to get 3 sets of steel pipe nipples, and put a 3/4" steel pipe nipple inside a 1" nipple to line up the rim on the hub. The lug nuts run down no fuss, and the rim doesn't chew the threads.
An important note, when dodge made them, the spokes were pressed in one piece integral with an inner rim, then they spot welded that to the 19.5" tubeless rim barrel.
This was a great idea Chad. The only thing different I would have done is put the rim on the truck hub and check with a dial indicator (cheap at Princess Auto or borrow from Jim). Then rotate for runout before welding and perhaps check as you are tack welding still on the hub. Balance can be fixed with weights but not runout. Any tiny bit off with cutting can affect the runout radially and welding flex can impact the axial runout. Just a tip to get it close to perfect if not using a lathe otherwise great idea.
Would be a good idea to check them before welding , quite a simple process. You just need to set up a jig of some preferably on the rear, with an adjustable bolt , that is diagonal to the outside edge of the rim. Then you can check that its center to the axle and running true, from inside to out. It only has to be minutely out to cause a major problem.
Interesting video on building your wheels. A couple of ideas came to mind. You could layout the cut line while spinning wheel on front axle. Grind the OD to fit in the same fashion. Bevel the center for weld. OD will be very close from grinding while spinning Fit the wheel backwards on truck and use a dial indicator. Once wheel is true start tacking it. Then tack it with big tacks. Welds go on the inside. Weld one spoke and then the opposite side . Keep an eye on the dial!
First off chop the ring and get it out of your way. Cut it up right through the rim lip in 4 directions if you have to. I did exactly what you did but when I cut the center out of the second wheel I bolted a piece of plexaglass in the center. Then I took a steel ruller and scribed with a ice pick across all the holes to find the center of the big hole in the middle and center punched the plexaglas .I was able to put one point of the divider into the center punched mark and measured 9 inches on a steel rule to be able to acurately scribe a line with the other end of the dividers. Once I had an accurate scribed line a I cut the rim center bigger and ground the left over material down to the scribed line . Only one of my rims needed more balencing by 2 grams. The dial indicater said I was out between 2 to 5 thou .Thats good in my books. Food for thought. Cheers!
The run out on a wheel has to be within a specified measurement. This is why custom made wheels are done in a Machine Shop and put in a jig to insure they are right. Shop made wheels will be out of round or out of line. At low speed they might work, but at highway speed they will shake your ride to pieces.
He should have gone to Detroit Wheels, and had them do his wheels right. He could have got the exact wheels he needed without the chance of having big problems in the near future.
Haha, you should make some sometime, its not to difficult to get them right. You can check the runout on the vehicle or a balancer. This was done in shops for decades, Without a lathe.
i modified a set of steelies last winter for a car i built but i used a rotary table on my bridgeport mill. i centered the wheels on the table with a plug and cut the welds out with a saw blade on an arbor. once i cut through the welds i still had to drive the centers out which worked out well on reassembly. i figured out what i needed for backspacing and bolted the center down on a spacer of the right dimension on the bridgeport table and dropped the outer rim down over it and tapped it into place flush with the table and tacked it in place. i spun the wheel on my balancer to see if it was true and it was so i welded it up balanced up no problem
I see one thing you haven't done! The valve stem hole needs to be in one of the half moon circles. And yes it does matter If you ever wanted to run dual wheels in the back! When putting the wheels on, The valve stem will go across from each other, Just go out, And look at your cab over truck.
I agree Johnny B. It will also be hard to inflate/deflate the inner wheel when both wheels are fitted as duals. If Chad is fitting a lazy 3rd axle, then not really a problem. Apart from not looking too good. After all, it's a show truck. Please deflate the old truck wheels! There are plenty of videos to show the end result of a split rim letting go! Not pretty! One more point. Some tubeless steel rims have a larger diameter on the outside/kerb side of the wheel to prevent tyre coming off rim during a flat. I hope you measured the diameter of the inner and outer rims to make sure they are the right way around just in case. You're doing a great job and I admire you and Jolene for doing what you do. Would not like to see an accident. Regards Chris. (OZ) 🦘
Chad, I would mount each wheel back on the front hub of the truck. Use a dial indicator as you spin them to make sure they are true from side to side. and also up and down. It only takes a fraction of an inch off from trueness to make for a wheel wobble, or bounce on the highway.
Chad, 2 months ago I was using a 4-1/2" X .0625" cut-off wheel on my 4-1/2" Milwaukee and I turned it on and within a couple of seconds it blew up and hit me just below my goggles and I had to have 4 stitches and I'm left with a scar (inboard of my right cheekbone). I misplaced my faceshield and was using goggles instead and it struck about 1/4" below the goggles. I have been doing this since the 70s and never had that happen before so I recommend using more than some safety glasses. I am sold on the faceshield now.
I have seen this done on farm tractors and off road vehicles. I have never seen it done on something that was going to go down the road before. But then again the truck is probably so low geared it would only do 45 on road anyway .
I like your thought process very smart guy my family are all ol'skool Kool back in the day my great uncle would even grind is own cams cuz you couldn't really get the stuff back then we all make it work. But if that was me " not saying I'm any smarter" but if I was at the junk yard to get them rims I would have grabbed an old dodge wheel hub yeah know the spindle and made a quick base for it then you could have been waist leave and had just easily turned the rim for cutting
I love the appearance of the original wheels but those split rims ARE DEADLY in the LITERAL sense! I wasn't gonna watch the whole vid when I saw you were replacing them. Then I realized what you were doing. TOO KOOL! I HOPE you paint them FLAT BLACK! I had a 55 Chevy short box somebody welded the original centers into extra wide implement rims. NEVER had a shimmy or a shake!
Looking great. Hope it clears the rear drums . On my old truck the rears are maybe 1/2 inch from the drum . There larger because on a truck 🚚 the stopping based on the load on the rear. Ive never cut and changed the center but why not ? I have put the truck 20s on my 1 ton pickup the beed of the pickup rim is 3/4 and the truck is 1 1/4 . Much heavier hauls more have not blown the truck tires . Now i also put tube tires without tubes by putting that green tire gue in it, because a tube tire doesn't have the layer to hold air so they leek down through the tire . Much easier to run tubles tires lol but like you say use your brain 🤔. In a pinch its all good . Thanks for being the giney pig you always give me ideas 💡
Chad I admire your work ethic you don’t stop, but I feel that as long as you and Jolene are happy that is great , and a creative mind never stops. I love to work on old cars that’s why I love your show, keep up the good work. Greetings from California Mexico.
We have a few of these medium and heavy duty trucks converted into rods. They always replace the axles and spindles with 1 ton dually 8 lug axles , so they are upgrading the braking first. Then they use the 8 lug wheels that come with the frame and suspension. Now, there are 17 inch and probably bigger wheel, so you aren't confined to 235 85 R16. If you think they look too modern, you can paint them.
I love what you did . We are prepping to do this for some old Fords . I used to make wheels for our Pinto dirt track car . One thing OI did that the competition never could figure out was to get 15" rims for a Pinto. Dodge Monaco police car rims . I found the perfect centers quite by accident. Thunderbird space saver spare wheel. Lol. I'm hoping you got yours strait and balanced . They look great. We have a lathe at work big enough to spin the truck center. I have thoughts about using a hub to spin the center on and jig up a grinder that I can adjust its position. Just turn the grinder on and spin the center until I get to the correct diameter. What do you think?
I don't know I'm not a professional what you're doing is pretty cool but wouldn't it be pretty good if you tack it down take it to the truck put it on there and just spin it around to see what kind of balance it is I would say like I say I'm not a professional it's your thing but it might make a difference
You guys are the best, i never miss an episode and if I do I always go back and like it, I know you don’t talk about business on you channel but I’m curious if there will be another season or are there any other networks being pitched, I love all your content and I really enjoy seeing how generous your viewers are with you. Keep awesome 🇨🇦
Love your videos. Very creative and logical but I would like to see them rotated on the front spindles and the edge of the rim checked for up and down and side to side before I would try this method. Keep up the great videos.
Awesome Chad! I have a 63 Chevy C30 dually with the same issue so I hope you don't mind im going to use your idea to change my center out of the two piece tube type wheels and welding it into the center so I can run radials on my rig ! You are an innovator and I love to watch all your videos and absorb you knowledge! Real information from a legend!
Those are really nice wheels Chad! If someone had to pay a specialist to build them well totally understandable to build your own. I'm sure the haters will squawk about machining, micrometers and safety etc. but rodders have been doing what you are doing for decades. That is what makes your builds so interesting Chad Your ethic of doing it yourself teaches how us to do the same affordably. Your builds are unique works of Automotive Art. Can't wait to see you paint Elvis!
One major problem I see is that when the dual wheels are on the back the valve stems are not set in a hole center so they won't be able to clock them and be able to add air . That's a gonna be a pain to deal with. But as easy as it's done getting another set of wheels and welding in another set of centers be done and if they are true center then balancing them should be easy enough!!
With taking no measurements just cutting out and welding in don't be surprised to find out those wheels will be hard to balance. Please let us know cause I am very interested to know. Great job though...
"Proof is in the puddin" as Chad likes to say... please show us the wheels on the truck, and you spinning each one to show us how true they actually turned out!
Man .... I've done the same , but made a hll of a lot more work out of it 🤣 i took the tire of and drilled out the rivets. Then i made a tool to make them true in the lathe. After that i changed the boltpattern to 8 lugs . And changed the axles to chevy. A g30 chevy van front suspension will bolt right up . One day job to change completely. I used a steering rack from dodge 1500. Got a lot of pictures of this
the difference between the height of the old tires and height of new ones will change your top speed. Also the difference in the offset of the old wheels and new wheels looks like the front tires are going to stick out beyond the front fenders and might be changing the turning radius and alignment. I also had wheels made quite a few times by a expert welder and learned from him to use welding rod that was huge and very high setting on welder to get deep penitration so the wheels wont come apart under extreme conditions.
@@conradblackii watch TH-cam videos on the deaths related to split rims. Big reason why they don't use them anymore. Usually removes your head when you make a mistake
All I could think about during the construction of these wheels was the old song we'd sing on the school bus as kids and applied a new adaptation of that for this build. "The wheels on the truck are sort of round, sort of round, sort of round."
First there was Coddington, then foose ...now there's Chad's series wheels ..Great wheel build but I'd like to have seen a jig or some levels or gauges involved 🤔 but Chad does it his way .love to see them spinning and how much they got balanced at the tyre shop
Put the two rims together back to back like it would be on the back of the truck and you will see what I'm talking about. They will work on the front but they will definitely not work on the back with that offset like that. You have the right idea you just didn't think it out very well.
only guessing that your plasma either hit it's "Duty Cycle" and shut itself down temporarily, or your air supply was too low at that moment and the thermal protector sensed and shut machine arc power off, and it and required a quick reset by powering machine on-off once ample air pressure was present. My smaller plasma machine I used to have used to do the same thing for either of the aforementioned issues. Keep on keepin on !!!! Joe
If it was me, I’d set up a dial indicator on the truck to check the runout and flatness of the rims. It’d be easy to do. You’d only have to set the indicator on a heavy object next to the rim. You could use a concrete block with a metal plate strapped to it.
You should’ve got ahold the guys at Detroit Wheels, and have them build the EXACT wheels you wanted and needed. Avoiding all the problems that homemade wheels face. I love your persistence, but sometimes you have to leave it up to the professionals that do this type of work many times a day. Roger in Pierre South Dakota USA
Bro… he’s literally never paid that amount of money for ANYTHING he’s built. He’ll have less in the entire truck than a set of Detroits. Not saying you’re wrong but it ain’t happening
Should be great for a slow driving yard truck... But for speeds close to highway speeds it's necessary to have things trued up and balanced. Dial indicators aren't too costly after all.
Mount the wheel center cutout back on the truck axle. That gives you a make-shift lathe. Then use something heavy, a large vice or cement block as a tool mount; mount a hand grinder on it, and bring it incrementally closer to the outer surface to be trimmed while spinning the wheel. This insures both a controlled consistent cut AND true-to-center shape (the most important trait of a wheel).
HOT IDEA MATE. love it to bits...Dave.
yes that inner peace needs to be lathed off then it needs to be squared up in the rim, at LEAST measure up your center hub and or lug nuts tot he rim they all need to be EXACTLY the same then it needs to be plane matched as well or you can get a gallop, or a wobble, maybe both?
like Norm says, the center should have been cut out in a lathe and then welded back up in a lathe, on small gallup or off center evena MM and its hale at speed, then if that center is not on the exact same plane as the rim the wobble sucks worse, if they are off to where its not noticable to the eye and you don't feel it can still be off enough to wear the tire poorly..
chuck em up on a lather and proof em, both directions see how you did...
Saw one of the vids from Pakistan where they did that to grind a flywheel....they got away with it too,,,,,At first when I saw this with the tennis shoes and working on the floor next to a bench I thought it WAS one of those vids, so why not make the truck into a lathe like they would do over there. Those fashion statement ripped pants are on that level too. Best way I know to catch yourself on fire while welding and burning,,,,even grinding.
Hey, At least he isn't wearing shorts and Ho Chi Minh safety sandals like you see on theses vids all the time. ... Not sure how this is going to work at 60MPH down the freeway but he DID get the job done without getting hurt too bad so who am I to say? If it works for him DRIVE ON!
I did exactly this when building custom 5.5" wide beadlocks for a jeep (34x9.50 15 tires)... bolted centers to the rear axle, stuck 'er in 2nd gear and spun 'er up while using a 7" grinder to "lathe" the center to size. After pressing in the center to the wheel, I bolted it back up to spin (slowly) & used a runout gauge to square it up. I can run 70 MPH on 'em when I have to.
That's how I used to do it and put the wheels back on after you tack them to make sure they are true before weld
I would bolt the wheel to the front axle and get a dial indicator. Then check the lateral and radial run out. Hope you did good.
Exactly. Chad's method is NOT foolproof, because he is not functioning as a lathe. After tacking just a little, it is time to check by mounting this on a hub and spin that sucker and check it with a dial indicator -- pretty easy and fast check.
Good advice 👍
Yep I would do the same side to side and up and down even a wire will give you a good idea
sixtyfiveford here on TH-cam has a good video showing that
@doberfag I would just use a heavy bit of wire or rod and check the run out it's easy .done it lots with older truck wheel with no centers and using a wedged cleats
Chad
Before you do the others check how true you got the first 2.
You need a turntable or spindle to check the outer edge of the centre disc you cut is true before welding to the rim as even a millimetre (0.040") will cause a massive vibration as the wheel spins and you won't be able to drive on them.
Would not want you to waste time effort and money doing this and not being able to use the rims.
Love your work and great camera work as always Jolene.
3 bolts to triangulate a center
drop the wheel center hole around the bolts... put a nut on the bolts to hold the wheel center down and just keep from wobbling (but not tight)
then find a way to solidly mount the grinder at a set distance from center.(vice?)
spin the wheel center and adjust the grinder distance a smidge at a time...
itll center itself tighter than 0.005" once the grinder barely touches all the spokes of the rim as it spins past....as long as they all drag the same on the grinder with nearly no pressure.
picture a lazy susan spinning by hand...and a grinder in a vice so it doesn't move
@@montyrayza7220 Split truck rims are illegal in most places now
Michael Anderson, I have to agree with you sir, even though I have nothing against the way Chad is doing it, he’s done it before and it worked out fine. I work for a company here in Australia(22yrs),and all we do is make wheels for agriculture and the mining industry , anything on road has to be trued up within 40 thou otherwise any speed over 90klm/hr you will have issues, the company that I work for was previously owned by Titan USA 👍🇦🇺🇺🇸
@@brycechessum4684 says who?
2. After you've got the center trimmed and pounded into the rim, remount it on the truck axle, and spin it to check for true-ness, especially side to side wobble. Correct with hammer tap placement. and spot weld while on the axle.
When I did my 48 F6, I used rims off an early 70's Dodge motorhome. Bolted right up to the Ford axles. No more split rims. I ended up using everything from the motorhome. The wheels, axles, 440 engine and transmission so it really didn't matter that those rims fit on the Ford, lol. Love what you are doing.
We’re they the great big 5. Lot pattern?
We’re they the great big 5 bolt pattern
I got 7 rims from a M500 chassis off of a 1975 Coachman. They bolted right up to my 52 F6. Even the lug nuts and tire tools crossed over. They are 19.5 tubeless, with tires widely available. The tires on my widow makers were too tall 8.25-20's that rubbed the back of the fenders on sharp turns. I don't miss that, but I do miss the widow maker look.
@@edcadieux3689 Yes, they are 5x8 with 3/4" studs, and 1 1/2" "self centering" lug nuts. I went to the hardware store to get 3 sets of steel pipe nipples, and put a 3/4" steel pipe nipple inside a 1" nipple to line up the rim on the hub. The lug nuts run down no fuss, and the rim doesn't chew the threads.
An important note, when dodge made them, the spokes were pressed in one piece integral with an inner rim, then they spot welded that to the 19.5" tubeless rim barrel.
This was a great idea Chad. The only thing different I would have done is put the rim on the truck hub and check with a dial indicator (cheap at Princess Auto or borrow from Jim). Then rotate for runout before welding and perhaps check as you are tack welding still on the hub. Balance can be fixed with weights but not runout. Any tiny bit off with cutting can affect the runout radially and welding flex can impact the axial runout. Just a tip to get it close to perfect if not using a lathe otherwise great idea.
Would be a good idea to check them before welding , quite a simple process. You just need to set up a jig of some preferably on the rear, with an adjustable bolt , that is diagonal to the outside edge of the rim. Then you can check that its center to the axle and running true, from inside to out. It only has to be minutely out to cause a major problem.
Interesting video on building your wheels.
A couple of ideas came to mind. You could layout the cut line while spinning wheel on front axle. Grind the OD to fit in the same fashion. Bevel the center for weld. OD will be very close from grinding while spinning
Fit the wheel backwards on truck and use a dial indicator. Once wheel is true start tacking it. Then tack it with big tacks. Welds go on the inside. Weld one spoke and then the opposite side . Keep an eye on the dial!
If you can get those wheels to balance and work I will be truly impressed
I would be worried about the fractions of an inch that would make it wobble. I just can’t imagine I’d get this one right
They look like they want to work anyway
It would be a good idea to make a hub centric jig so the barrel is center with the disk.
Got 2 parallel planes to worry about too.
First off chop the ring and get it out of your way. Cut it up right through the rim lip in 4 directions if you have to. I did exactly what you did but when I cut the center out of the second wheel I bolted a piece of plexaglass in the center. Then I took a steel ruller and scribed with a ice pick across all the holes to find the center of the big hole in the middle and center punched the plexaglas .I was able to put one point of the divider into the center punched mark and measured 9 inches on a steel rule to be able to acurately scribe a line with the other end of the dividers. Once I had an accurate scribed line a I cut the rim center bigger and ground the left over material down to the scribed line . Only one of my rims needed more balencing by 2 grams. The dial indicater said I was out between 2 to 5 thou .Thats good in my books. Food for thought. Cheers!
The run out on a wheel has to be within a specified measurement. This is why custom made wheels are done in a Machine Shop and put in a jig to insure they are right. Shop made wheels will be out of round or out of line. At low speed they might work, but at highway speed they will shake your ride to pieces.
His vehicles are for show not performance.
He should have gone to Detroit Wheels, and had them do his wheels right. He could have got the exact wheels he needed without the chance of having big problems in the near future.
Haha, you should make some sometime, its not to difficult to get them right. You can check the runout on the vehicle or a balancer. This was done in shops for decades, Without a lathe.
i modified a set of steelies last winter for a car i built but i used a rotary table on my bridgeport mill. i centered the wheels on the table with a plug and cut the welds out with a saw blade on an arbor. once i cut through the welds i still had to drive the centers out which worked out well on reassembly. i figured out what i needed for backspacing and bolted the center down on a spacer of the right dimension on the bridgeport table and dropped the outer rim down over it and tapped it into place flush with the table and tacked it in place. i spun the wheel on my balancer to see if it was true and it was so i welded it up balanced up no problem
I see one thing you haven't done! The valve stem hole needs to be in one of the half moon circles. And yes it does matter If you ever wanted to run dual wheels in the back! When putting the wheels on, The valve stem will go across from each other, Just go out, And look at your cab over truck.
I agree Johnny B. It will also be hard to inflate/deflate the inner wheel when both wheels are fitted as duals. If Chad is fitting a lazy 3rd axle, then not really a problem. Apart from not looking too good. After all, it's a show truck.
Please deflate the old truck wheels! There are plenty of videos to show the end result of a split rim letting go! Not pretty!
One more point. Some tubeless steel rims have a larger diameter on the outside/kerb side of the wheel to prevent tyre coming off rim during a flat. I hope you measured the diameter of the inner and outer rims to make sure they are the right way around just in case.
You're doing a great job and I admire you and Jolene for doing what you do. Would not like to see an accident. Regards Chris. (OZ) 🦘
@@chrisball8080 and Johnny B Chad did say he is going with the tandem axles. Lazy 3rd axle. :).
Chad, I would mount each wheel back on the front hub of the truck. Use a dial indicator as you spin them to make sure they are true from side to side. and also up and down. It only takes a fraction of an inch off from trueness to make for a wheel wobble, or bounce on the highway.
Chad, 2 months ago I was using a 4-1/2" X .0625" cut-off wheel on my 4-1/2" Milwaukee and I turned it on and within a couple of seconds it blew up and hit me just below my goggles and I had to have 4 stitches and I'm left with a scar (inboard of my right cheekbone). I misplaced my faceshield and was using goggles instead and it struck about 1/4" below the goggles. I have been doing this since the 70s and never had that happen before so I recommend using more than some safety glasses. I am sold on the faceshield now.
I have seen this done on farm tractors and off road vehicles. I have never seen it done on something that was going to go down the road before. But then again the truck is probably so low geared it would only do 45 on road anyway .
I like your thought process very smart guy my family are all ol'skool Kool back in the day my great uncle would even grind is own cams cuz you couldn't really get the stuff back then we all make it work. But if that was me " not saying I'm any smarter" but if I was at the junk yard to get them rims I would have grabbed an old dodge wheel hub yeah know the spindle and made a quick base for it then you could have been waist leave and had just easily turned the rim for cutting
I love the appearance of the original wheels but those split rims ARE DEADLY in the LITERAL sense! I wasn't gonna watch the whole vid when I saw you were replacing them. Then I realized what you were doing. TOO KOOL! I HOPE you paint them FLAT BLACK! I had a 55 Chevy short box somebody welded the original centers into extra wide implement rims. NEVER had a shimmy or a shake!
Looking great. Hope it clears the rear drums . On my old truck the rears are maybe 1/2 inch from the drum . There larger because on a truck 🚚 the stopping based on the load on the rear. Ive never cut and changed the center but why not ? I have put the truck 20s on my 1 ton pickup the beed of the pickup rim is 3/4 and the truck is 1 1/4 . Much heavier hauls more have not blown the truck tires . Now i also put tube tires without tubes by putting that green tire gue in it, because a tube tire doesn't have the layer to hold air so they leek down through the tire . Much easier to run tubles tires lol but like you say use your brain 🤔. In a pinch its all good . Thanks for being the giney pig you always give me ideas 💡
Thanks for your teaching
Chad I admire your work ethic you don’t stop, but I feel that as long as you and Jolene are happy that is great , and a creative mind never stops. I love to work on old cars that’s why I love your show, keep up the good work. Greetings from California Mexico.
If they actually balance this will be one of the more impressive skills demonstrated!
Why would the not balance ?
@@garybarry4446 just thinking it would be hard to find exact center, maybe not
Would be interesting to take a measurement across the wheel to see if it is out of round. Back spacing might be off as well. Doesn't take much.
The ones i did for a garden tractor project turned out like crap. They were thinner material though. Best of luck to Bad Chad on his!
We have a few of these medium and heavy duty trucks converted into rods. They always replace the axles and spindles with 1 ton dually 8 lug axles , so they are upgrading the braking first. Then they use the 8 lug wheels that come with the frame and suspension. Now, there are 17 inch and probably bigger wheel, so you aren't confined to 235 85 R16. If you think they look too modern, you can paint them.
I love what you did . We are prepping to do this for some old Fords . I used to make wheels for our Pinto dirt track car . One thing OI did that the competition never could figure out was to get 15" rims for a Pinto. Dodge Monaco police car rims . I found the perfect centers quite by accident. Thunderbird space saver spare wheel. Lol. I'm hoping you got yours strait and balanced . They look great. We have a lathe at work big enough to spin the truck center. I have thoughts about using a hub to spin the center on and jig up a grinder that I can adjust its position. Just turn the grinder on and spin the center until I get to the correct diameter. What do you think?
We do a 64 Volkswagen cut them and increase the size of the wide on Oem VW .
The car looks amazing.
The Champ is gonna make his own wheels, wow the force is strong in this Jedi ! 🧙♂️👍😉✌
I don't know I'm not a professional what you're doing is pretty cool but wouldn't it be pretty good if you tack it down take it to the truck put it on there and just spin it around to see what kind of balance it is I would say like I say I'm not a professional it's your thing but it might make a difference
An ingenious way to adapt the wheels. Excellent job!
Should Center the valve stem hole in the opening of one of the rim openings?
Awesome addition to the Hiltz garage the 48 Ford .
You guys are the best, i never miss an episode and if I do I always go back and like it,
I know you don’t talk about business on you channel but I’m curious if there will be another season or are there any other networks being pitched, I love all your content and I really enjoy seeing how generous your viewers are with you. Keep awesome 🇨🇦
You keep on amaze me every day with all your tricks ,I can't get enuf of your tricks
Love your videos. Very creative and logical but I would like to see them rotated on the front spindles and the edge of the rim checked for up and down and side to side before I would try this method. Keep up the great videos.
Awesome!!!!!!! I love these videos showing people they can do if they try. No fancy nonsense
Awesome Chad! I have a 63 Chevy C30 dually with the same issue so I hope you don't mind im going to use your idea to change my center out of the two piece tube type wheels and welding it into the center so I can run radials on my rig ! You are an innovator and I love to watch all your videos and absorb you knowledge! Real information from a legend!
I have done this many years ago without a problem.
Good work Chad.
Those are really nice wheels Chad! If someone had to pay a specialist to build them well totally understandable to build your own. I'm sure the haters will squawk about machining, micrometers and safety etc. but rodders have been doing what you are doing for decades. That is what makes your builds so interesting Chad Your ethic of doing it yourself teaches how us to do the same affordably. Your builds are unique works of Automotive Art. Can't wait to see you paint Elvis!
Love to watch your work and see the end results of your hard work!! You are the man👍
I look forward to your show every day thank y’all so much
good ol bad chad out here re inventing the wheel! 😎
Your ingenuity never ceases to amaze me
One major problem I see is that when the dual wheels are on the back the valve stems are not set in a hole center so they won't be able to clock them and be able to add air . That's a gonna be a pain to deal with. But as easy as it's done getting another set of wheels and welding in another set of centers be done and if they are true center then balancing them should be easy enough!!
With taking no measurements just cutting out and welding in don't be surprised to find out those wheels will be hard to balance. Please let us know cause I am very interested to know. Great job though...
Always learning something! Awesome work Chad n Jolene!
Awesome work! those are definitely 1 of kind Wheels.
Wow you go boy !! Looking forward to seeing the tires on them. This will be a first for me.
"Proof is in the puddin" as Chad likes to say... please show us the wheels on the truck, and you spinning each one to show us how true they actually turned out!
Excellent job loving the work you doing .Learning lot from you Good Chad.
You are truly a Mad Genius! Very creative and solid choice on the wheels.
Man .... I've done the same , but made a hll of a lot more work out of it 🤣 i took the tire of and drilled out the rivets. Then i made a tool to make them true in the lathe. After that i changed the boltpattern to 8 lugs . And changed the axles to chevy.
A g30 chevy van front suspension will bolt right up . One day job to change completely. I used a steering rack from dodge 1500.
Got a lot of pictures of this
the difference between the height of the old tires and height of new ones will change your top speed. Also the difference in the offset of the old wheels and new wheels looks like the front tires are going to stick out beyond the front fenders and might be changing the turning radius and alignment. I also had wheels made quite a few times by a expert welder and learned from him to use welding rod that was huge and very high setting on welder to get deep penitration so the wheels wont come apart under extreme conditions.
I’m glad it’s not just me that goes through tonnes of grinding discs 😁
Wow,Not the First time you do something and I say Wow. Hope it works out for you all.
Finished wheel looks Great,
Amazing. Cant wait to see them finished up. Great job
that rim that you did looks great on the truck
Please let all the air put of those old tires, so no one could be killed by the split rims. You a brave soul.
Aren't they safer fully inflated? I don't understand split rings myself.
@@conradblackii watch TH-cam videos on the deaths related to split rims. Big reason why they don't use them anymore. Usually removes your head when you make a mistake
This will be great never seen it done!!!
All I could think about during the construction of these wheels was the old song we'd sing on the school bus as kids and applied a new adaptation of that for this build. "The wheels on the truck are sort of round, sort of round, sort of round."
Perfect idea and plan for a Static Art Piece. Cant wait to see the tandem build video.
I like what your doing. I like changin things to suit the situation, and your good at it
They look awesome!!! Great job!
Hope you checked to make sure the smaller diameter dodge wheel is gonna have clearance for brake drums. Awesome job though!
Now, before welding, is the time to put it on the spindle and check for wobble. Slight adjustments can be made to true up the wheel.
ahh too much precision for Chad . the ol' eagle eye is fine
He can mount the wheel on the hub and use a dial indicator !!
Everyone in comments talking about how to balance the wheel not realizing chad only builds trailer queens.
Sweet Semi Truck in the background. Let’s check it out .
America 🇺🇸💪🏼🤙🏼🔧🔩
You can do anything when you set your mind to it to make it work.
First there was Coddington, then foose ...now there's Chad's series wheels ..Great wheel build but I'd like to have seen a jig or some levels or gauges involved 🤔 but Chad does it his way .love to see them spinning and how much they got balanced at the tyre shop
Good job Chad👍Hopefully they balance up and don’t rattle themselves apart.
Great job as always Jolene ❣️
right.
Put the two rims together back to back like it would be on the back of the truck and you will see what I'm talking about. They will work on the front but they will definitely not work on the back with that offset like that. You have the right idea you just didn't think it out very well.
They will of course work on the front but not on the back the wheel offset is incorrect for dualies.
He's not doing duelies, he said he's making tandem axles !!
Can’t find them so make your own. Much respect to Chad and Jolene!
only guessing that your plasma either hit it's "Duty Cycle" and shut itself down temporarily, or your air supply was too low at that moment and the thermal protector sensed and shut machine arc power off, and it and required a quick reset by powering machine on-off once ample air pressure was present.
My smaller plasma machine I used to have used to do the same thing for either of the aforementioned issues.
Keep on keepin on !!!! Joe
U should have made sure the valve stem was in the middle of the circle on the wheel.
Thanks for the great videos!
You are one creative man bad Chad, great job on your videos and your bields.
Oh Man I love this videos . Your guy’s Work great
And we're on to a new project 😉😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
Those wheels look awesome
I always said You can do anything if you put your mind to it and you prove this most days 👏👏👏👍
If it was me, I’d set up a dial indicator on the truck to check the runout and flatness of the rims. It’d be easy to do. You’d only have to set the indicator on a heavy object next to the rim. You could use a concrete block with a metal plate strapped to it.
So far looks good and you’re doing a good job as always have a blessed day.
Wow never knew that could be done
Great job Jolene
You should’ve got ahold the guys at Detroit Wheels, and have them build the EXACT wheels you wanted and needed. Avoiding all the problems that homemade wheels face. I love your persistence, but sometimes you have to leave it up to the professionals that do this type of work many times a day. Roger in Pierre South Dakota USA
Bro… he’s literally never paid that amount of money for ANYTHING he’s built. He’ll have less in the entire truck than a set of Detroits. Not saying you’re wrong but it ain’t happening
I love this!! I am going to do a set thanks chad
great ideas guys.
Another great video and informative. Not surprised at your talent. Good job as always Jolene..Ontario fan.
Great job on the wheel fabrication Chad!!!
I like this video, you are so creative. Thanks
Hi Chad I watch you all the time you do great work God Bless you and your family 👍
Bad Chad getting it done again !!
Wish you would have made dual wheels for the back
Cool Idea.
Pretty awesome Chad your full of surprises 👏🏻
Should be great for a slow driving yard truck... But for speeds close to highway speeds it's necessary to have things trued up and balanced. Dial indicators aren't too costly after all.
Hot! Love watching and learning. Thanks for the hard work you two
Cool rims!👍😍
Cool video makes me want to build a wheel even though I don’t need one lol
Great idea for the wheels congratulations
Cool stuff always 😎
Wow. That’s some clear sky
Take a shot whenever Chad says "Basically"
“All I did was”