Thank you, it indeed helped me as guidelines and i managed to pull caliper off bracket, clean some gunk that was on the outer of the brake pads, the "slide" into the smaller "thin stainless steel looking like" clips. I noticed alot of gunk inside the piston itself, previous owner had painted them red and it seems to have caused more residue than it should, i cleaned that, pushed back piston in holding it safely and having it secured by a wire in case it slips and not to stress the hose, I used a kind of big westcut that i had and manage to make the rounded shape of it lever pretty well, another oddly shaped tool i could use the corner near the handle while pressing its extremety in the sidehold of the caliper as a lever was a "file" a handheld steel file. I noticed the rubber is a little bit damaged as it been squeezed it seems, i tried to push it back in place, I took out the "slide pins" and wiped off the old grease, applied new one and made sure they slide properly.(i noticed if you dont carefuly hold the rubber extensive thingy that it slides into, it might stretch out to a point it might fissure, make sure you hold it there while you rotate motion the pins away from it/the caliper) let's hope it stays repaired, at first drive i couldnt even tell if it is fixed, it isnt stuck like previous car used to do and get blue hot metal on the disks.... :D you can do it too !!!! if you are there reading all and watching, preparing.... DO IT !!!!
I appreciate your focus on safety and how you call yourself out for the jewellery and eye protection. It's great to get both the technical overview on brakes/ callipers as well as best practice for safety. Thank you!
Came upon this video after having a sudden brake fluid leak, came upon my pass rear was seized up, at this time still trying to figure this out as I am by no means a mechanic, just a Tire Technician, so I was weary about what to do, but your instructions are simple enough to follow. Being said I'll still likely head to my mechanic, but I'll better know the verbage now.
Before you start spending a couple of hours taking the wheels off and fiddling around with the brake assembly, a quick way to check for dragging brakes (caliper) is to drive the car a few miles with frequent braking, then use an infrared thermometer and measure the rotor temperature on both sides of the car. A dragging brake pad will significantly increase the temperature.
I've just replaced me brake pads on Mercedes ML, today I smelt that distinct brake burning odour and the caliper was scorching to the touch. What a small world,From Scotland,UK.
Thanks for taking the time to record this video. I;m having problems with one of my rear brakes dragging and after removing the pads I found I can not get the pistons to retract. Not sure whether it is a corroded piston(s) or bad hose and wasn't sure how to check it. Thanks for showing and explaining how to test for this so I can figure out if I need new hoses or need to rebuild the caliper. Great video
Easiest and fastesr way to compress the pistons on calipers that have 2 or more pistons is to use one of the old brake pads or piece of steel flat stock laid across the pistons you want to compress then a decent sized C-clamp as centered on the old pad or flat stock as you can possibly get then simplu start tightening that clamp down until you feel the pistons stop and can feel through the c clamp that your now just pushing the pressure when you tighten it against the body of the caliper , which is the obvious sign that you drove them completely back into the bores. However before you ever start to compress a piston back into a caliper bore , always take the couple minute to get the outter dust seal as clean as you possibly can , blow it off real good then just quick lay on a thin film of your brake grease you should have handy for the job to lubricate the seal a bit , these couple easy and fast extra steps almost always eliminate the possibility of the seal spinning if your doing a rear caliper , or getting pinched and therefore likely also torn while compressing a standard style caliper back into place , and once that seal has the slightest hole or rip in it , kiss that brake caliper good bye because if you still put it back together and use the car as is , that caliper will seize almost certainly within less than a year , sometimes as soon as a few weeks, dirt and moisture gets in their corrodes the piston and bore anf that alone can make it seize , but also the dirt and contaminated often will sandwich themselves between the piston and the bore which of course is obviously going to cause it to inevitably seize in the not to distant future. Sorry for the long comment just wanted to add a few tips in that every one even just the weekend warrier should all know and be aware of.
Thank you, sir!…I had issues on my front wheel after slamming on my brakes to avoid a deer…..slides were ok, and piston did retract….so I’m suspecting the hose!
Sort of wish Barney & Fred Flintstone help me with new shoes. ( this caliper of me car weighs slightly less than me Bicycle. It has shoes, too. Pad feels great now that cold Temps are returning December in n. ohio . )
I think that's what going on with mine. Changed the breaks today because I heard grinding. The inner pad was worn to the metal but the outer pad still had 50%
@@randomshortz17 Man I just got mine back in with a C-clamp. And it was 1 piston. Idk if they occasionally get stuck from time to time or there’s a reason why
@@mellybug6698 I guess when the rubber boot goes bad and gets a tear in it, dirt and debris gets into the piston, in my case mine were original on 2006 Silverado so they were well beyond due for a replacement
I had a problem with the caliper not releasing I open the bleeder and it released. I moved up to the next fitting and loosed it and it release till I made it to the master cylinder. The master would not let fluid back, so brakes stayed on
My problem is the car sat for about 2 years. I finally got the engine engine to start. It now runs fine. The brakes are rusted to the rotors in the back. I have been working on it for 2 days. Before I take the calipers apart do you have any suggestions?
I have a 2004 Saturn VUE AWD 6cy 221,000 miles. What caused the brakes to freeze. It felt like all four froze. I was driving down the street and I was not pushing down on the brake pedal then suddenly the brakes are the stopping car. I started to depress the brake pedal but was stuck at the top, I could not push it down. I pulled off on to the emergency lane and waited for 15 to 25 minutes. I could smell asbestos. I tested to see if the brake pedal would go down as it should. It worked so I drove another 20-30 minutes and it occurred again another 20-30 minutes and it occurred again, and again. That's the pattern the brakes kept doing until I got home.
I have a 2001 Suburban 1500, a few days ago I noticed slight grinding noise, I figured it's time for a pad change, but today it got louder, and while braking it feels like the wheel is jammed, its seems to jump around, could that be a seized caliper piston?
Hello... thanks for your video. I have this nagging question about disc brakes and I have searching youtube to look for an answer and I have not found any answers on the videos that I have seen. Maybe you can help me understand. I know the theory of disc calipers; push and pull of the caliper to engage one side of the pad and the other side of the pad. On the non piston side, the slider pin/mechanism pulls the caliper "arm' (is that right?) to engage the pad to the rotors and when you let go of the brake, the caliper arm pulls the brake pad away from the rotor. Now for the piston side of the caliper is where I can't seem to comprehend. This is what little I understand. To engage the pad to the rotor, the piston pushes forward to engage the pad and when the pad is engaged, the brake fluid will continue into the piston which causes the piston arm along with the pad to pull up against the rotor. When you disengage the brake pedal, the caliper arm along with the pad will back away from the rotor. Then the piston on the caliper will back away from pressing the brake pad up against the rotor BUT how does the brake pad on the piston side back away from the rotor? Do you understand my question? Maybe it is this and correct me if I am wrong: The natural position for the caliper/piston/arm is always lets say 1/8" from the rotor. When the piston on the caliper is engaged, the piston/caliper side of things does move along with the pad to engage the rotor by way of the slider pins (still i visually can't see that) and once engaged the arm will then move the pad to engage the rotor on the caliper arm side. If this is how it works, then the piston side of the calipers I can't seem to understand how that piston side would back away the pad from the rotor. I know this is long but heck.. I'm so confused.
Hey Keith I have question my car has little issue. I googled the many engine related problem but I can't find solution because I do not know exactly what the problem is called. I don't know nothing about fixing car. When the car is idling the sound is loud, I can hear pulley's spinning it is not a normal sound. When I sat on my friend's car ( not brand new, low mileage) the engine idle is quietly. My car is under 26k miles. When I accelerate the engine sound is loud, and I feel little vibration as I am slowly pushing the pedal. The car vibrates for few second then its gone. I know when you press the pedal to the floor the engine get louder. I'm not pressing the pedal to the floor, at low rpm the engine sound is loud. In highway however the engine is quite. So if you have idea on what the problem could be can you help with. Thank you
Hi, i have a 2007 jeep compass, the brakes locked on me while driving and sometimes the ABS light keep flashing on the dashboard when i push the brake pedal the ABS making a rude noise on the box. can someone help me fix this problem please
Help. I installed rotors and pads, bleeded the brakes,abs, cylinder lines and I don't have break power on two wheels. So break peddle sinks full. Took it for a quick drive on gravel with slamming the break multi times to get the abs to activate in hoping to get pressure.. got home and checked my rotors/pads. Front left, hot. Works. Front right cold, doesnt work. caliper doesn't work? Rear left cold, rear right hot. Any tips welcome, just not those..😂
I have an intermittent grinding noise coming from the driver side (I think front). It only happens when the car is cold and it happens in both reverse and drive. However, after I apply the brakes a couple of times it goes away. Do you think this might be a brake related issue or something else? Thanks!
Will this cause car not to move? Whenever I put my truck into reverse it goes into gear but won’t move. If I floor it’ll move but it fights hard and grinds. Drive is just fine tho Thanks!
Thank you, it indeed helped me as guidelines and i managed to pull caliper off bracket,
clean some gunk that was on the outer of the brake pads, the "slide" into the smaller "thin stainless steel looking like" clips.
I noticed alot of gunk inside the piston itself, previous owner had painted them red and it seems to have caused more residue than it should, i cleaned that,
pushed back piston in holding it safely and having it secured by a wire in case it slips and not to stress the hose, I used a kind of big westcut that i had and manage to make the rounded shape of it lever pretty well, another oddly shaped tool i could use the corner near the handle while pressing its extremety in the sidehold of the caliper as a lever was a "file" a handheld steel file.
I noticed the rubber is a little bit damaged as it been squeezed it seems, i tried to push it back in place,
I took out the "slide pins" and wiped off the old grease, applied new one and made sure they slide properly.(i noticed if you dont carefuly hold the rubber extensive thingy that it slides into, it might stretch out to a point it might fissure, make sure you hold it there while you rotate motion the pins away from it/the caliper)
let's hope it stays repaired, at first drive i couldnt even tell if it is fixed, it isnt stuck like previous car used to do and get blue hot metal on the disks....
:D you can do it too !!!! if you are there reading all and watching, preparing.... DO IT !!!!
I appreciate your focus on safety and how you call yourself out for the jewellery and eye protection. It's great to get both the technical overview on brakes/ callipers as well as best practice for safety. Thank you!
Thanks for the compliment
Came upon this video after having a sudden brake fluid leak, came upon my pass rear was seized up, at this time still trying to figure this out as I am by no means a mechanic, just a Tire Technician, so I was weary about what to do, but your instructions are simple enough to follow. Being said I'll still likely head to my mechanic, but I'll better know the verbage now.
Glad to help
I like that you used a tripod so your video stays still. Great explainations. Attempting my first solo caliper fix (F-63).
Before you start spending a couple of hours taking the wheels off and fiddling around with the brake assembly, a quick way to check for dragging brakes (caliper) is to drive the car a few miles with frequent braking, then use an infrared thermometer and measure the rotor temperature on both sides of the car. A dragging brake pad will significantly increase the temperature.
Many thanks for the video, from the UK. I was about to give up on getting the piston to retract, but your tip saved me a trip to the garage.
7 party
I've just replaced me brake pads on Mercedes ML, today I smelt that distinct brake burning odour and the caliper was scorching to the touch.
What a small world,From Scotland,UK.
Thanks Brother. Spent over an hour on the tools trying to sort it out. Worked like magic 🎩
Thanks for taking the time to record this video. I;m having problems with one of my rear brakes dragging and after removing the pads I found I can not get the pistons to retract. Not sure whether it is a corroded piston(s) or bad hose and wasn't sure how to check it. Thanks for showing and explaining how to test for this so I can figure out if I need new hoses or need to rebuild the caliper. Great video
Easiest and fastesr way to compress the pistons on calipers that have 2 or more pistons is to use one of the old brake pads or piece of steel flat stock laid across the pistons you want to compress then a decent sized C-clamp as centered on the old pad or flat stock as you can possibly get then simplu start tightening that clamp down until you feel the pistons stop and can feel through the c clamp that your now just pushing the pressure when you tighten it against the body of the caliper , which is the obvious sign that you drove them completely back into the bores. However before you ever start to compress a piston back into a caliper bore , always take the couple minute to get the outter dust seal as clean as you possibly can , blow it off real good then just quick lay on a thin film of your brake grease you should have handy for the job to lubricate the seal a bit , these couple easy and fast extra steps almost always eliminate the possibility of the seal spinning if your doing a rear caliper , or getting pinched and therefore likely also torn while compressing a standard style caliper back into place , and once that seal has the slightest hole or rip in it , kiss that brake caliper good bye because if you still put it back together and use the car as is , that caliper will seize almost certainly within less than a year , sometimes as soon as a few weeks, dirt and moisture gets in their corrodes the piston and bore anf that alone can make it seize , but also the dirt and contaminated often will sandwich themselves between the piston and the bore which of course is obviously going to cause it to inevitably seize in the not to distant future. Sorry for the long comment just wanted to add a few tips in that every one even just the weekend warrier should all know and be aware of.
Thank you, sir!…I had issues on my front wheel after slamming on my brakes to avoid a deer…..slides were ok, and piston did retract….so I’m suspecting the hose!
Sort of wish Barney & Fred Flintstone
help me with new shoes. ( this caliper of
me car weighs slightly less than me Bicycle. It has shoes, too. Pad feels great now that cold Temps are returning
December in n. ohio . )
Thanks, I’m off to watch you other video 👍
Stay well
Ash from Scotland 🏴
Awesome! Thank you!
I think that's what going on with mine. Changed the breaks today because I heard grinding. The inner pad was worn to the metal but the outer pad still had 50%
Dude same! I was like wtf?? How In the world?!
@@mellybug6698 update, it was a stuck caliper piston replaced calipers rotors and brakes 250$
@@randomshortz17 Man I just got mine back in with a C-clamp. And it was 1 piston. Idk if they occasionally get stuck from time to time or there’s a reason why
@@mellybug6698 I guess when the rubber boot goes bad and gets a tear in it, dirt and debris gets into the piston, in my case mine were original on 2006 Silverado so they were well beyond due for a replacement
I really did enjoy the explanation... You explained extremely well.
Thank you!
Had brake lines on front caliper collapsed and I learned how serious this is
Lmfao. I’m cracking up hard at the yellow texts
I had a problem with the caliper not releasing I open the bleeder and it released. I moved up to the next fitting and loosed it and it release till I made it to the master cylinder. The master would not let fluid back, so brakes stayed on
Did you find out what the problem is?
Do a good visual inspection on your piston seal. That seal pulls piston back into bore once brake petal is released.
Actually, the seal that does that is not visible. The dust boot is visible. It's just a dust boot. The seal is inside.
As a spy from bicycle less-tax & health activist, may I ask can this interior-
of-piston Seal be replaced or new piston
include Seal , if purchase ?
Great video was it the front or rear? And wheel a step caliber on the back make the car pull in the front? Thank you.
Very informative thanks for the guidance
My pleasure
Shouldn't the cap on the brake reservoir be removed before pushing the piston in?
My problem is the car sat for about 2 years. I finally got the engine engine to start. It now runs fine. The brakes are rusted to the rotors in the back. I have been working on it for 2 days. Before I take the calipers apart do you have any suggestions?
You’re the best.
Thank you
I have a 2004 Saturn VUE AWD 6cy 221,000 miles. What caused the brakes to freeze. It felt like all four froze. I was driving down the street and I was not pushing down on the brake pedal then suddenly the brakes are the stopping car. I started to depress the brake pedal but was stuck at the top, I could not push it down. I pulled off on to the emergency lane and waited for 15 to 25 minutes. I could smell asbestos. I tested to see if the brake pedal would go down as it should. It worked so I drove another 20-30 minutes and it occurred again another 20-30 minutes and it occurred again, and again. That's the pattern the brakes kept doing until I got home.
Not sure. I'd highly suggest having a technician take a look at it.
I have a 2001 Suburban 1500, a few days ago I noticed slight grinding noise, I figured it's time for a pad change, but today it got louder, and while braking it feels like the wheel is jammed, its seems to jump around, could that be a seized caliper piston?
Or a slap worn out pad...sounds like the brakes need to be inspected immediately.
Perfect tool
I have a 2007 ford focus caliper stuck close and I put a new one and it got stuck close too, don't know why
I have a seized rear passenger brake, when I loosen the two caliper bolts it frees what. Can you give me any advice on this?
I also noticed when you removed the caliper no brake fluid drained out, when I remove mine brake fluid starts to escape.
Just happened to me early stages of squeaking when reversing getting two new rear Pagid Cap fitted.
Getting what?
BarboursAutoHelp caliphers sorry my spelling is bad lol
@@riccccccardo Oh ok.
That Pry bar is going to scratch the Rotors 😮
Do the calipers have to be replaced in pairs?
I recommend calipers always be replaced in pairs.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Thanks! I would imagine that should especially be the case when replacing an OEM caliper with an aftermarket one.
Thanks!
Hello... thanks for your video. I have this nagging question about disc brakes and I have searching youtube to look for an answer and I have not found any answers on the videos that I have seen. Maybe you can help me understand. I know the theory of disc calipers; push and pull of the caliper to engage one side of the pad and the other side of the pad. On the non piston side, the slider pin/mechanism pulls the caliper "arm' (is that right?) to engage the pad to the rotors and when you let go of the brake, the caliper arm pulls the brake pad away from the rotor. Now for the piston side of the caliper is where I can't seem to comprehend. This is what little I understand. To engage the pad to the rotor, the piston pushes forward to engage the pad and when the pad is engaged, the brake fluid will continue into the piston which causes the piston arm along with the pad to pull up against the rotor. When you disengage the brake pedal, the caliper arm along with the pad will back away from the rotor. Then the piston on the caliper will back away from pressing the brake pad up against the rotor BUT how does the brake pad on the piston side back away from the rotor? Do you understand my question? Maybe it is this and correct me if I am wrong: The natural position for the caliper/piston/arm is always lets say 1/8" from the rotor. When the piston on the caliper is engaged, the piston/caliper side of things does move along with the pad to engage the rotor by way of the slider pins (still i visually can't see that) and once engaged the arm will then move the pad to engage the rotor on the caliper arm side. If this is how it works, then the piston side of the calipers I can't seem to understand how that piston side would back away the pad from the rotor. I know this is long but heck.. I'm so confused.
Hydraulic pressure from brake fluid
Hey Keith I have question my car has little issue. I googled the many engine related problem but I can't find solution because I do not know exactly what the problem is called. I don't know nothing about fixing car. When the car is idling the sound is loud, I can hear pulley's spinning it is not a normal sound. When I sat on my friend's car ( not brand new, low mileage) the engine idle is quietly. My car is under 26k miles. When I accelerate the engine sound is loud, and I feel little vibration as I am slowly pushing the pedal. The car vibrates for few second then its gone. I know when you press the pedal to the floor the engine get louder. I'm not pressing the pedal to the floor, at low rpm the engine sound is loud. In highway however the engine is quite. So if you have idea on what the problem could be can you help with. Thank you
Can you upload a video of your vehicle running so that I can see and hear it?
Thanks u I learned a lot!
Hi, i have a 2007 jeep compass, the brakes locked on me while driving and sometimes the ABS light keep flashing on the dashboard when i push the brake pedal the ABS making a rude noise on the box. can someone help me fix this problem please
My rear caliper won't fully collapse. It collapses partially.
Help. I installed rotors and pads, bleeded the brakes,abs, cylinder lines and I don't have break power on two wheels. So break peddle sinks full. Took it for a quick drive on gravel with slamming the break multi times to get the abs to activate in hoping to get pressure.. got home and checked my rotors/pads. Front left, hot. Works. Front right cold, doesnt work. caliper doesn't work? Rear left cold, rear right hot. Any tips welcome, just not those..😂
Probably best to take it to a shop.
@@BarboursAutoHelp hours later I ended up fixing it my self , now they all work better then ever.
@@wevonox7941 what was the issue ?
You're doing alot of good humans heart kindness.and karma law.
Definitely i will gift. You alike and subscribe.thank you very much for your info.
Thnx
I had to replace both of rear brakes
Jesús Christ thank you
Yes! I'll think him too.. Thank you Jesus!
I have an intermittent grinding noise coming from the driver side (I think front). It only happens when the car is cold and it happens in both reverse and drive. However, after I apply the brakes a couple of times it goes away. Do you think this might be a brake related issue or something else? Thanks!
Could be
How to get both in. I push one the other pops out ?
Will this cause car not to move? Whenever I put my truck into reverse it goes into gear but won’t move. If I floor it’ll move but it fights hard and grinds. Drive is just fine tho
Thanks!
Sometime a vehicle with a locked up caliper will move...sometimes not. Depends on how bad it is.
I ended up using so much force with the compression tool the fucking caliper snapped 😆
This is like watch Fire Marshall Bill...Let me show you something!!
I miss that show!
That's not stuck 😂 mine is
😂😂😂
This was so unhelpful..
Be honest, who actually wears gloves and glasses while working on a car. Painting is different.
I do. And so do 99% of the techs I work with.
always a good idea, got oil in my eye once😬
Yeah. Lots of mechanics use gloves.
Thank you