I use a nylon brush even a cheap brand of tooth brush will work a metal wire brush can tear the boot or any other rubber. Also use a silicone lubricant spray don’t use WD-40 it’s a petroleum-based product, which will eat rubber. You can simply use a spray bottle with soap and water in it to clean the rubber boot while it’s wet use your nylon brush or tooth brush to get the brake dust and road grime off the boot. Dry the boot spray it with silicone lube so it doesn’t stick to the caliper and twist up. Use the appropriate specialty tool to turn the screw piston in all the way so it will clear the pad when you put the caliper back on the vehicle. Don’t cheap out and use a pair of pliers a screwdriver, or a prybar. Put the caliber back on and put your bolts in and tighten them to torque specs spray down the caliber and rotor one last time with brake cleaner so you don’t contaminate the pads and you’re done.
Thank you for the detailed explanation!!!! I drove my son back down to his mothers in Florida, and thanks to my swift swerving out of what would have been a pile up on the highway, however my rear passenger caliper seized up on me. I did not have the time nor the funds to stop jack it up, so I pumped it a couple times and to no avail it continued to keep seizing not locking the wheel completely up, but did destroy the pads on that side and rotor. So, a good friend of mine works for Oreilly and got me a set of pads for both rear even though the left is fine, a ne caliper ( I imagine it locked out due to standing on the brake quickly to avoid collision) but since I get a really good deal through him went ahead and got a rotor and caliper as well. I may get another rotor since I get a core return and have done the whole front end already. Anyways, THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE DETAILS in this video. Fronts were simple so as long as I hit it all with a little Blaster all should go smoothly!
Very good presentation. My son has a 2015 Honda Accord, we used C-Clamp, couldn't compress the piston. I thought the caliper was bad, and plan to replace it. This video shown us how to compress the piston without special tool, and we follow it, works out like a charm. All techniques introduced here is very useful (including how to use DW40 to do lubrication). Thank you for providing us this information. Very appreciate your kindness.
I got a s2000 the rear has the cross on the piston and I couldn’t get it to budge with. Man that was a pain in the butt. Then I watched a video and used the 3/8 ratchet close wise and no prob
Since I don’t have the tool, and since I don’t have a crowbar with a wide enough edge, I ended up using a large flat file. The edge of the flat file fit into the groove and I was able to have enough leverage to rotate the piston clockwise and down. Thanks for the video.
Yeah bro be a good mechanic I use to work for honda dealer I quit because they wanted to make me a dummie mechanic I remember how they made me lie to customer I felt guilty but this give me an idea to do a video about it. Stay tuned u will see it
@@RBTheMechanic crazy thing I work for a honda dealership and I’m in my first month and it’s crazy I just want to learn to fix my own car and be a good mechanic but I know I will not be there for long . 4 years max and after on my own like your self and one thing I hate is being a lube tech and being in a competition to see how many cars you can push out a month to earn a bonus at the end
@@81quiroz I worked for Passaic honda dealer in jersey they called me lub tec. I hated it but left after 6 months and it’s better to learn in private shops because u get diff diff types of cars. Keep watching and it will take time to get that experience but u will get there
@@81quiroz good question but I wouldn’t put any of those chemicals in fuel tank because they burn the holes on the injectors that causes to leak fuel more and low MPG just try using super fuel couple of tanks that can clean the system they have chemicals
RB, thanks so much for the suggestion to put some grease on the thin washers to keep them from falling out. Those things were driving me bonkers. Have a blessed year.
For that brief instance the small amount of WD-40 used won't destroy the rubber boot. If you soaked it in the WD-40 for a long time you might have a problem.
I thought the same thing. I thought it seized or something. Every other caliper i have ever dealt with you can compress the piston with out spinning it.
Good video man but I have always heard that you should open up the caliper bleeder screw when retracting a piston to prevent damage to the ABS. I have also heard that you should open up the master cylinder when doing this. If the system is pressurized, I would think that you should do the caliper bleeder because it's after the abs unit. If the master cylinder cap is off, the pressure would flow backwards and into the unit. Any thoughts on that?
What type of rotors and new brake pads do you recommend there’s a lot on Amazon to choose from. Don’t mind spending a little more since I’m doing the work myself. Thank you in advance. Morris
I wouldn’t buy online get something quality from part store they can guide u betting good quality I use electric coated rotors lot and power stop brakes not the best but decent and quiet
RB great video. Thanks so much for the tip of filing down the pad ears when they resist going into the hardware easily. My question is how do you keep those metal washers from falling out of the bolt hole when putting the caliper back on the mount bracket over the pads? My last install was very frustrating as those metallic washers continued to fall out, when I would put the bolt in. What function do those washers serve? Much success in your business and the videos.
This was great. I have a accord and i also have a 02 crv. However I'm trying to figure out how to free the piston that is stuck compressed down on one of my rears of the caliber of my 02 crv. Can break it loose or just replace the caliber? I noticed it when doing my brakes. 237k on the crv!
Thank you so much for this video it really helped me out a lot I thought I was going to have to replace my caliper until I saw that you have to spin it to decompress it
Thanks man this helped. My dumbass kept twisting the piston, and fixing the twisted boot. Took me like 15 minutes just to push the piston back since I was constantly trying to fix the boot
Great video, I am just doing this for the first time on a honda civic SI, it has the same type of caliper as in your video. How do I know the piston is turned back in all the way. I am using one of those square blocks on my ratchet. The piston is still about 3/16" out of the caliper and its very hard to turn in anymore. The parking brake is off as far as I can tell. Thanks for the help.
Thanks for this Vedio.I got Honda civic 2006 ,rear right side was so easy to comress and turn with needle nose plier, but rear left side is so solid/frozen that i cannot make it move even with comress tool.Please advise. Thanks
Yeah that one gotta be replaced I have video on replacing calipers just type in search caliper Honda Accord rb the mechanic all related videos will show up
The piston turns...But not going in...I'm using a wide pride bar and putting pressure on it....I also open the fluid cap...I done this before but not working...any suggestions?
Is ur ebrake off? U might have to turn it several times before it start to go other wise it could be bad caliper try to opposit side both can’t be bad or ur doing wrong direction
I didn’t know it had to be aligned I twisted it in but don’t remember if I put it straight the boot went in good tho Will that cause any problems I’ll have to redo them
@@RBTheMechanic yeah ima gona redo it and get new rear rotors just resurfaced them probably will wear uneven so I will redo them anyways thanks for the video man wish I seen it before
my 2016 toyota corolla ones are a pain in the butt. The rubber boot keeps getting twisted? Any tips? I tried WD40. I am using the toolkit rented from autozone to spin it
Thanks man this really helped me . I changed my wife back brakes and couldn’t get the cylinder back compressed with the C-clamp . Watch your video followed the steps we’re on the road again lol 😂 thanks again !!
i left one of the boot twisted because i couldn't get the air out.. the boot isn't blocking the metal piston part when i installed it back in. would that be okay and would that cause air to be in the brake line? thanks in advance.
Because this piston will not compress its twist and compress due to the mechanism is connected with parking brake it’s like 2 brakes applied through one caliper
That part of the seal is the outer part of the seal , they always get stuck to the pistons like that on higher mileage and or older cars , I usually avoid that happening by VERY carefully lifting just the tiniest smallest outter area of that seal with a plastic trim panel/upholstery removal tool and shoot in the smallest bit of PB blaster of Deep Creep , clear around the piston where the seal sits with a nylon or brass brush , giving the PB a few minutes to work it's way in well . Make sure when your done that you get off as much of the penetrating oil or grease as you can using brake cleaner, if you leave any petroleum based fluids or substances in there , their tackyness will accumulate tons of dust and dirt which obviously one always should take measures to avoid happening to what ever parts your working wish , cleanliness is Godlyness especially when working with car parts. Edit: wow I just only now watched the video paying attention this time around just to realize the guy in video does basically exactly what I recommended in my comment which obv I left before actually paying attention the video , whoops. One rather important and relevant bit of info I will leave speaking against the process's this guy uses hopefully to save someone out there a headache is don't ever try to put pressure against a piston on a caliper of this style when attempting to thread it back in UNLESS you want to risk fracturing or outright breaking a chunk off your calipers piston as they are honestly not that strong and surely do not always respond well to all the required pressure needed to thread it back in applied on only one single small and isolated section of the piston from using a tool such as a pry bar to keep preszure against it. The pistons in brake calipers are only of a cast type construction and not all too thick usually,, sometimes on newer cars they now are even made out of composite mix of metals and ceramic type materials, which obviously most I believe would know that most all cast metals and ceramics are already on their own prone to cracking, especially when force is applied to them on just a small area instead of spread out as even as possible over as much of the parts surface area possible , which is one of the primary reasons specialty tool kits are made and widely available for calipera of this style which most call threaded calipers, so yeah , forget about the pry bar and by a tool kit made to do this job the right way, they are widely available and really are very cheap, usually no more than only half the price of a remaned or new caliper , so why take a chance and risk doing senseless short cuts , brakes are no place for short cuts if you value human life that is
Your video was well done!!! I think you should add a link to the comments for the tool that you used to back off the piston...I found it at Harbor Freight for $44.99
Couple Questions: Is it only Honda that makes these type of brake piston/cylinders that you have to compress with a special tool? Does the tool just sit around when you're not working on a Honda? Since you ultimately wind up having to use a pry bar anyways, I think I'm going to hold off on buying that expensive tool that I may use once or twice.
Yeah the tool only used on these type of caliper few other makes have it Kia Nissan Maxima’s older models but I do lot without the tool I use pry bar or skinny needle nose player twice turn and push in
well, you dont end up having to use a pry bar.. he just used the pry bar to show the 2nd method. I dont have that special tool so I've always used a big 1" bastard file. It fits in there almost perfectly and I wrap the file with a work towel. It's very difficult to get that first turn but once you do, it's goes very easily. I dont agree with the use of WD40 but it probably wont make a big difference. Like all the other rubber boots in a suspension/brake system, i hit it pretty good with Mothers Protectant
I tried doing this as well and ended up ripping the seal 😢 is there a way to install a new seal or do i need a whole new caliper, and also is it bad if i drive it for a few weeks til i get that seal
That's why I always clean those seals and lubricate then with brake grease before I start spinning those calipers back in , if you don't that F'd up outter dust seal for the piston being destroyed is what you'd get most the time which obviously your well aware is not the goal here lol I'm not done with the video yet and just heard you say " you don't even need a special tool , just a good pry bar" , that at was a red flag for me , and finally the video is finished and yes spinning them back in with a large flat head or decent sized pry bar or even a wood chise or piece of 1 inch wide 1/8 thick flat stock steel can all do the same job , but what the tool ensures is that you don't slip out of the groove with the screwdriver or pry bar and all to often as it then goes end up cutting the that outter caliper piston dust seal, ive seen and worked with at least a dozen guys who just have themselves connived that short cuts and cutting corners dont have a negative outcome , and they dont all the tine , but all to often they do and that is not how I work , I take more pride in my work and care about the quality of the job more than anything for rhe customer sake and safety. If you accidently while pushing hard on thst pry bar while trying to get thst piston to start spinning in and slipped off and even nicked the smallest little cut in that outer dust shield then you can guarantee that that particular caliper is going to fail not to far off in the future , comprosing the customers safety potentially and costing them more money in repairs needed due to techs like yourself being ignorant of the fact that their previous corning cutting is what caused the calipers failure. What happens is dirt and water get in there and will pack in and rub against the inner piston fluid seal ,eventually cutting through it causing an extremely dangerous brake fluid leak while the customer is driving , that doesn't happen as often , the most often result of those outer dust seals being damaged by people taking short cuts is the moisture build up there behind that outer seal will cause corrosion to form on the bore walls of the caliper which in not to distant a future absolutely always will lead to the caliper piston seizing and the car breaking down and needing now not just a new caliper but also almost certainly also new rotor and pads as well as bracket clips on that side because seized calipers don't just suddenly seize completely outta no where , they first start sticking and therefore operating at much higher a temperature than designed to withstand and that increased heat will cause the caliper piston to expand and completely seize and lock up which will in a very brief time get so hot that the rotor and pads on that corner of the vehicle will be scortched to hell and back , and honestly a lot of times I have cars with locked up calipers that were driven in that condition instead of immediately no longer being driven , I usually recommend also having rhe abs sensor ajd wheel bearing reaplaced as the brakes often get so hot that I bakes the grease in the wheel bearing which will due to lack of lubrication cause the wheel bearing to begin wearing out at a rapid rate eventually failing completely. The abs sensors I replace bechar again due to such high temperatures it was exposed to , once cooled off , their platic bodies are so damn brittle that its almost impossible to remove them to do a wheel bearing replacement without the sensors crumbling apart into pieces , and all because in the end a mechanic decided to do a repair without using the proper tool that is designed specifically only for it's one job , and close poorly to use a hackers method thinking they can get the same job accomplished without the special tool , and like I said I've seen it dozens of times , guys do what you did , slip off the caliper piston causing a small or large tear in that outer dust seal. I'd rather take moe time to do rhw job right and make less money , than do a job faster and make more money but end up due to taking the butcher's short cut cost the custimer more money down the road abd potentially compromising their safety and well being . What is so hard about just doing things the right way ? I'll never understand why some people do butcher work but taking short cuts and somehow don't seem to understand that they actually just fucked up the car worse in the process of trying to fix it.
ANother good video! I just watched one of your others and asked why the piston needs to be turned while compressing. Can't you just use a large "C" clamp like you can on the front calipers?
Ah, sanity check. I couldn't remember if the calipers turned clockwise or counterclockwise. Also, it helps to crack the bleeder valve before cranking down the piston to relieve the pressure.
@@RBTheMechanic Sweet! Thanks man. I guess on the newer models you don't have to bleed them? I remember on the older models I would have to do that! How times have changed haha
I did this for the first time on my son’s Corolla last week. I noticed the boot was twisting so just backed the calliper piston off a quarter turn. All good. I had to watch another video on how to compress the rear piston first. Does anyone know why they can’t just be pushed back into the calliper like the front ones? I was amazed that they needed screwing back! 😳
@@RBTheMechanic There was another nice surprise for me, too. When I came to do the second rear pads, they both had tangs on, unlike the first ones. It dawned on me that the pads weren’t packaged in wheel pairs but in inboard and outboard pairs! Had to put wheel back on, drop car, Jack up other side, remove inboard pad from that wheel……pain in the ass! I wish I could say, “I’ll know next time” but it’ll be so long that I’ll forget! 😩😂
ugh of course. the dang plastic handle on mine i just bought stripped and i had to use a vise grip on the bolt threads themselves just to get it unstuck and back to square one. headed back to the parts store now to hopefully return it and get this job done. ugh.
Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant. Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product's formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
@@N_pop_2020 No? Are you agreeing or disagreeing? Its not bad for rubber if you wipe it off right away, but if you leave it then over time the rubber will soften, expand, and then degrade.
I had to go rent the piston retract tool .. I didn’t re install the paper clip like spring , on the pads .. didn’t see the purpose of it .. hopefully it , doesn’t effect the braking system
Ok it shouldn’t be big deal but it dose help the brakes move back out when ur letting go the brakes and prevent brake friction when not In use which is good for brakes and rotors from heating up but not a big deal it’s always missing when I get the cars that already had brakes changed previously
I will NOT use WD 40, I prefer brake cleaner, and before the piston go back in, I use a syringe to inject a few CC of brake fluid behind the dust seal. That lub the area the piston had to travel on and no more seize caliper.
Ever video I have seen uses the special tool before showing how its done with a pry bar. If you dont have the tool, trust me, it is much harder than these guys make it out to be. For me, it was a two person job. One turning the piston, the other holding the caliper. The torque was high enough that we put an adjustable on the shank of the pry bar.
@@RBTheMechanic depends where you live and drive. Every time I change pads, the pistons are stiff, but it doesn't mean they are bad. In regular operation, the pistons barely move, they just increase pressure. In addition, the hydraulic force of the pump is far greater than a person can apply so it's not a surprise that they are stiff.
@@RBTheMechanic I can't damage the hill assist function while replacing the brake pads? (when i am on a hill and let go of the clutch, the rear drakes are active for 2 seconds eletronically)
I'm leery of using a wire brush on rubber parts...is this OK? I think you may be better off using a nylon or similar brush with plastic fibers. Wire brush is fine if you avoid the rubber and just use it on the rusty metal parts. Same with WD-40...this product contains solvents (petroleum distillates) that are not good for rubber (and paint!) . The rubber can eventually dry out and crack. I'd recommend a silicone lubricant (or even an emulsified product like Armor-All, but be sure to avoid brake surfaces. Just dab it on a rag and wipe it on the rubber). Dude I'm a chemistry major and know what I'm talking about. I dont know how long it would take for the rubber to dry out and crack, and maybe you've been doing this forever with no problems, but I wouldnt recommend it. Otherwise great video and you're saving people a lot of time and grief. Here's a video on how to protect rubber boots on the underside of your car: th-cam.com/video/k19sd8tDAnE/w-d-xo.html
Don’t use a petroleum based oil like WD-40 because the rubber boot is made of petroleum material and the oil will eat the rubber then you’ll have a leak. Use a silicone based oil.
Best brake video!
Thank you!!! Will help lot of people
I use a nylon brush even a cheap brand of tooth brush will work a metal wire brush can tear the boot or any other rubber. Also use a silicone lubricant spray don’t use WD-40 it’s a petroleum-based product, which will eat rubber. You can simply use a spray bottle with soap and water in it to clean the rubber boot while it’s wet use your nylon brush or tooth brush to get the brake dust and road grime off the boot. Dry the boot spray it with silicone lube so it doesn’t stick to the caliper and twist up. Use the appropriate specialty tool to turn the screw piston in all the way so it will clear the pad when you put the caliper back on the vehicle. Don’t cheap out and use a pair of pliers a screwdriver, or a prybar. Put the caliber back on and put your bolts in and tighten them to torque specs spray down the caliber and rotor one last time with brake cleaner so you don’t contaminate the pads and you’re done.
I swear that Hondas were designed by mechanics. They are a dream to work on.
Lol love ‘em I love the new electrical parking caliper heheh no scan tool required dealer must hate me
Thank you for the detailed explanation!!!! I drove my son back down to his mothers in Florida, and thanks to my swift swerving out of what would have been a pile up on the highway, however my rear passenger caliper seized up on me. I did not have the time nor the funds to stop jack it up, so I pumped it a couple times and to no avail it continued to keep seizing not locking the wheel completely up, but did destroy the pads on that side and rotor. So, a good friend of mine works for Oreilly and got me a set of pads for both rear even though the left is fine, a ne caliper ( I imagine it locked out due to standing on the brake quickly to avoid collision) but since I get a really good deal through him went ahead and got a rotor and caliper as well. I may get another rotor since I get a core return and have done the whole front end already. Anyways, THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE DETAILS in this video. Fronts were simple so as long as I hit it all with a little Blaster all should go smoothly!
Very good presentation. My son has a 2015 Honda Accord, we used C-Clamp, couldn't compress the piston. I thought the caliper was bad, and plan to replace it. This video shown us how to compress the piston without special tool, and we follow it, works out like a charm. All techniques introduced here is very useful (including how to use DW40 to do lubrication). Thank you for providing us this information. Very appreciate your kindness.
Nice job!!! I’m glad u found my video I have ton of videos on Honda’s !!!
So just a C Clamp wont work@@RBTheMechanic ?
@@Car1Sagan nope not on the back ones u less u spin it with player and compress with clamp at the same time
I got a s2000 the rear has the cross on the piston and I couldn’t get it to budge with. Man that was a pain in the butt. Then I watched a video and used the 3/8 ratchet close wise and no prob
Since I don’t have the tool, and since I don’t have a crowbar with a wide enough edge, I ended up using a large flat file. The edge of the flat file fit into the groove and I was able to have enough leverage to rotate the piston clockwise and down. Thanks for the video.
Good job!!!
This tip saved me, I also don't have the tool
Good advice 👍🏿
I’m a express tech at a dealership and even though all I do is change oil and do the basic stuff but I’ll learning a lot from your videos
Yeah bro be a good mechanic I use to work for honda dealer I quit because they wanted to make me a dummie mechanic I remember how they made me lie to customer I felt guilty but this give me an idea to do a video about it. Stay tuned u will see it
@@RBTheMechanic crazy thing I work for a honda dealership and I’m in my first month and it’s crazy I just want to learn to fix my own car and be a good mechanic but I know I will not be there for long . 4 years max and after on my own like your self and one thing I hate is being a lube tech and being in a competition to see how many cars you can push out a month to earn a bonus at the end
@@81quiroz I worked for Passaic honda dealer in jersey they called me lub tec. I hated it but left after 6 months and it’s better to learn in private shops because u get diff diff types of cars. Keep watching and it will take time to get that experience but u will get there
@@RBTheMechanic thank you is there anyway that I can clean or replace my fuel injectors from for more performance on the 9GEN accord
@@81quiroz good question but I wouldn’t put any of those chemicals in fuel tank because they burn the holes on the injectors that causes to leak fuel more and low MPG just try using super fuel couple of tanks that can clean the system they have chemicals
RB, thanks so much for the suggestion to put some grease on the thin washers to keep them from falling out. Those things were driving me bonkers. Have a blessed year.
Yeah glad I could help you… you to enjoy ur summer!!!
You are the man.I was struggling to use the pressing tool until I watched the video.i did it. Thank you 🙏
Glad u found the video
WD 40 is petroleum based and as such will break down and destroy any rubber. Use a silicone based lube, after cleaning instead.
For that brief instance the small amount of WD-40 used won't destroy the rubber boot. If you soaked it in the WD-40 for a long time you might have a problem.
@@richardcarlson3627 what’s the best silicon spray out there?
@@MrSamPhoenixhigh temp silicone paste does the job well
Lube should come with new brake pads and rotors. Also, what about brake cleaner?
Isn't WD-40 say on the can its made from fish oil? NOT PETROLEUM!!?!?
Awesome! I was totally stuck and worried I would have to buy a new caliper until I watched you. Thank you, and keep up the great content!
Nice job bro!!! I’m glad u found my video I got ton of videos on Hondas!!!
I thought the same thing. I thought it seized or something. Every other caliper i have ever dealt with you can compress the piston with out spinning it.
I was about to head to the parts store thanks bro
I didn't know you could twist it. I will try this tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.
Not can, MUST! Honda brake caliper pistons MUST be turned or you can destroy the caliper.
WD40 is also available in a silicone spray, and you should be using this to lube all rubber parts.
Thanks, in the middle of doing this right now and your video was a real help.
Great to hear! Update me how it went and make sure u pump the brake peddle once’s ur complete before u start the vehicle
Good video man but I have always heard that you should open up the caliper bleeder screw when retracting a piston to prevent damage to the ABS. I have also heard that you should open up the master cylinder when doing this. If the system is pressurized, I would think that you should do the caliper bleeder because it's after the abs unit. If the master cylinder cap is off, the pressure would flow backwards and into the unit. Any thoughts on that?
No those bleeders can brake or snap or don’t stop leaking
What type of rotors and new brake pads do you recommend there’s a lot on Amazon to choose from. Don’t mind spending a little more since I’m doing the work myself. Thank you in advance.
Morris
I wouldn’t buy online get something quality from part store they can guide u betting good quality I use electric coated rotors lot and power stop brakes not the best but decent and quiet
RB great video. Thanks so much for the tip of filing down the pad ears when they resist going into the hardware easily. My question is how do you keep those metal washers from falling out of the bolt hole when putting the caliper back on the mount bracket over the pads? My last install was very frustrating as those metallic washers continued to fall out, when I would put the bolt in. What function do those washers serve? Much success in your business and the videos.
Which washers the one that’s between the bracket to hub
@@RBTheMechanic Yes, those two thin washers that fall out so easily when you try to put the bolts back in.
@@josequintana6526 use tiny bit grease on them and they will stay sticky to hub
This was great.
I have a accord and i also have a 02 crv. However I'm trying to figure out how to free the piston that is stuck compressed down on one of my rears of the caliber of my 02 crv. Can break it loose or just replace the caliber? I noticed it when doing my brakes. 237k on the crv!
It’s so old I would replace it if it’s not twisting or need lot of force To twise it
Thank you so much for this video it really helped me out a lot I thought I was going to have to replace my caliper until I saw that you have to spin it to decompress it
Yup good job figuring this out!! Always here to help with anything with cars!!
Great explanation. A question: What can I do when the rear wheel of my Honda Accord is stuck after changing the brake pads?
Thanks
Did u have any difficulty compressing caliper… and how easy was it to insert the brake pads to brake brakes?
Thanks man this helped. My dumbass kept twisting the piston, and fixing the twisted boot. Took me like 15 minutes just to push the piston back since I was constantly trying to fix the boot
You can also use a 1/2 in extension on a short ratchet. Just put it in the center, push and turn.
Anything that can do the magic!!!
Super helpful!! Had them both done in about 15 minutes
Nice good job!!
Did u use tools or just the crowbar?
@@austinamaechiibe1922i just used a really big Klein flathead screwdriver
@@Nirret alright, thanks!
I was stuck on that, the dust boot kept going with the piston, now i know what to do! Thank you
Yeah lotta mechanic just force it but small like trick make it so easy!!
@@RBTheMechanic the dust boot still goes with the piston, do i add more WD-40?
@@maiddelalic4014 not too much u have to add some on the lip where it meets
Great video, I am just doing this for the first time on a honda civic SI, it has the same type of caliper as in your video. How do I know the piston is turned back in all the way. I am using one of those square blocks on my ratchet. The piston is still about 3/16" out of the caliper and its very hard to turn in anymore. The parking brake is off as far as I can tell. Thanks for the help.
It will compress and it will stop going on once it reaches end
Purchase a new caliper , they shouldn’t twist in extremely tight
Bros a beauty with the breaks. Thanks a lot!
Thank you bro!! I love doing brake jobs never had a come back
Good video. I gotta say you made a good point about spraying WD 40 on those boots. Thank You
Yup thank u !!
Thanks for this Vedio.I got Honda civic 2006 ,rear right side was so easy to comress and turn with needle nose plier, but rear left side is so solid/frozen that i cannot make it move even with comress tool.Please advise.
Thanks
Yeah that one gotta be replaced I have video on replacing calipers just type in search caliper Honda Accord rb the mechanic all related videos will show up
The piston turns...But not going in...I'm using a wide pride bar and putting pressure on it....I also open the fluid cap...I done this before but not working...any suggestions?
Is ur ebrake off? U might have to turn it several times before it start to go other wise it could be bad caliper try to opposit side both can’t be bad or ur doing wrong direction
@@RBTheMechanic yes break is off ..it turns it just don't go in. I'll try other side tomorrow or go AutoZone and get tool.
What about a Honda Accord 2007 EX 4 Cylinders? It is the same process? Or every honda is the same on rear brakes piston?
Yeah they all same for rear brake caliper up to 2017
I didn’t know it had to be aligned I twisted it in but don’t remember if I put it straight the boot went in good tho
Will that cause any problems I’ll have to redo them
It prolly will find it way in but if it dosent then they will wear out uneven I would go back in there fix it
@@RBTheMechanic yeah ima gona redo it and get new rear rotors just resurfaced them probably will wear uneven so I will redo them anyways thanks for the video man wish I seen it before
@@abrahammartinez5628 yeah fix it up
my 2016 toyota corolla ones are a pain in the butt. The rubber boot keeps getting twisted? Any tips? I tried WD40. I am using the toolkit rented from autozone to spin it
Well u might have to put some grease and help the rubber boot out manually
@@RBTheMechanic Okay for sure, Ill try that out thank you
Glad you mensioned the brake tool this will make my job a whole lot easier thnx bro
Yup
Had a siezed caliper cylinder on a 15 si...thanks man!
After twisting it in, will it just come back out on its own or is there a way to retwist it back?
Yes once’s ur done doing all the brakes everything is back on and wheels u pump the brake peddle 4-5 times it will retract back
Good content buddy. Yeah Honda, Nissan/Infiniti, and some Fords have these rewind pistons on their rear Calipers.
Yup
Thanks man this really helped me . I changed my wife back brakes and couldn’t get the cylinder back compressed with the C-clamp . Watch your video followed the steps we’re on the road again lol 😂 thanks again !!
Nice good job!!!
Do you have to spin the front brake pistons too@@RBTheMechanic ?
@@Car1Sagan no front are only compress in
i left one of the boot twisted because i couldn't get the air out.. the boot isn't blocking the metal piston part when i installed it back in. would that be okay and would that cause air to be in the brake line? thanks in advance.
I would go back and fix it up try lube so it dosent do that but it’s not gonna cause air to go in line
@@RBTheMechanic got it. And thanks for the fast reply.
Why do we have to turn the piston and not just pressed it in with a c-clamp and one of the pads? thank you
Because this piston will not compress its twist and compress due to the mechanism is connected with parking brake it’s like 2 brakes applied through one caliper
I have watched different video,s how to screw in the calliper and you are the only one that lighned the slots in a strait line up and down .thanks
Yup if u don’t align it ur brakes will wear out uneven and might not be able to close the caliper propperly
Great video bro!
Clean and lube rubber first.
Didn't know about special tool... Found your video.
The pry bar trick rocks!!!
Thanks 👍
Oh yeah defiantly don’t need special tool
open up the brake fluid cap too.....it relieves some of the pressure
Yuppp I state those in my new videos
Does the VW JETTA 2021 need to be twisted or turned to retract on the caliper?
The rears on those are electrical caliper watch this video u will understand derstand th-cam.com/video/PwcROE8b9vE/w-d-xo.html
Thank you my friend 👍🏼
That part of the seal is the outer part of the seal , they always get stuck to the pistons like that on higher mileage and or older cars , I usually avoid that happening by VERY carefully lifting just the tiniest smallest outter area of that seal with a plastic trim panel/upholstery removal tool and shoot in the smallest bit of PB blaster of Deep Creep , clear around the piston where the seal sits with a nylon or brass brush , giving the PB a few minutes to work it's way in well . Make sure when your done that you get off as much of the penetrating oil or grease as you can using brake cleaner, if you leave any petroleum based fluids or substances in there , their tackyness will accumulate tons of dust and dirt which obviously one always should take measures to avoid happening to what ever parts your working wish , cleanliness is Godlyness especially when working with car parts.
Edit: wow I just only now watched the video paying attention this time around just to realize the guy in video does basically exactly what I recommended in my comment which obv I left before actually paying attention the video , whoops.
One rather important and relevant bit of info I will leave speaking against the process's this guy uses hopefully to save someone out there a headache is don't ever try to put pressure against a piston on a caliper of this style when attempting to thread it back in UNLESS you want to risk fracturing or outright breaking a chunk off your calipers piston as they are honestly not that strong and surely do not always respond well to all the required pressure needed to thread it back in applied on only one single small and isolated section of the piston from using a tool such as a pry bar to keep preszure against it. The pistons in brake calipers are only of a cast type construction and not all too thick usually,, sometimes on newer cars they now are even made out of composite mix of metals and ceramic type materials, which obviously most I believe would know that most all cast metals and ceramics are already on their own prone to cracking, especially when force is applied to them on just a small area instead of spread out as even as possible over as much of the parts surface area possible , which is one of the primary reasons specialty tool kits are made and widely available for calipera of this style which most call threaded calipers, so yeah , forget about the pry bar and by a tool kit made to do this job the right way, they are widely available and really are very cheap, usually no more than only half the price of a remaned or new caliper , so why take a chance and risk doing senseless short cuts , brakes are no place for short cuts if you value human life that is
Yeah little but effort u can save it it keeps the dust out and and internal part of piston clean
Your video was well done!!! I think you should add a link to the comments for the tool that you used to back off the piston...I found it at Harbor Freight for $44.99
Nice good job
worked like a charm I’ve never seen a piston that needs twisting
Nice well these Hondas always been like that on accords also fords use that
Couple Questions: Is it only Honda that makes these type of brake piston/cylinders that you have to compress with a special tool? Does the tool just sit around when you're not working on a Honda? Since you ultimately wind up having to use a pry bar anyways, I think I'm going to hold off on buying that expensive tool that I may use once or twice.
Yeah the tool only used on these type of caliper few other makes have it Kia Nissan Maxima’s older models but I do lot without the tool I use pry bar or skinny needle nose player twice turn and push in
well, you dont end up having to use a pry bar.. he just used the pry bar to show the 2nd method. I dont have that special tool so I've always used a big 1" bastard file. It fits in there almost perfectly and I wrap the file with a work towel. It's very difficult to get that first turn but once you do, it's goes very easily. I dont agree with the use of WD40 but it probably wont make a big difference. Like all the other rubber boots in a suspension/brake system, i hit it pretty good with Mothers Protectant
I tried doing this as well and ended up ripping the seal 😢 is there a way to install a new seal or do i need a whole new caliper, and also is it bad if i drive it for a few weeks til i get that seal
The dust boot? I doubt that y can buy boot itself best to replace the caliper
I've just done the o/s caliper no problem but the n/s one refuses to retract back, it is turning fine just won't seem to go back in, any ideas?
What is ns?
@@RBTheMechanic near side or passenger side
@@jimlea7935 either it’s bad or the ebrake is stuck on at the caliper rear
@@RBTheMechanic all done now, bit strange but I left it overnight and tried again this morning and it went straight in no problem!!
@@jimlea7935 prolly was frozen
Thank you, brother Just the reassurance I needed.
Welcome!!!
That's why I always clean those seals and lubricate then with brake grease before I start spinning those calipers back in , if you don't that F'd up outter dust seal for the piston being destroyed is what you'd get most the time which obviously your well aware is not the goal here lol
I'm not done with the video yet and just heard you say " you don't even need a special tool , just a good pry bar" , that at was a red flag for me , and finally the video is finished and yes spinning them back in with a large flat head or decent sized pry bar or even a wood chise or piece of 1 inch wide 1/8 thick flat stock steel can all do the same job , but what the tool ensures is that you don't slip out of the groove with the screwdriver or pry bar and all to often as it then goes end up cutting the that outter caliper piston dust seal, ive seen and worked with at least a dozen guys who just have themselves connived that short cuts and cutting corners dont have a negative outcome , and they dont all the tine , but all to often they do and that is not how I work , I take more pride in my work and care about the quality of the job more than anything for rhe customer sake and safety. If you accidently while pushing hard on thst pry bar while trying to get thst piston to start spinning in and slipped off and even nicked the smallest little cut in that outer dust shield then you can guarantee that that particular caliper is going to fail not to far off in the future , comprosing the customers safety potentially and costing them more money in repairs needed due to techs like yourself being ignorant of the fact that their previous corning cutting is what caused the calipers failure. What happens is dirt and water get in there and will pack in and rub against the inner piston fluid seal ,eventually cutting through it causing an extremely dangerous brake fluid leak while the customer is driving , that doesn't happen as often , the most often result of those outer dust seals being damaged by people taking short cuts is the moisture build up there behind that outer seal will cause corrosion to form on the bore walls of the caliper which in not to distant a future absolutely always will lead to the caliper piston seizing and the car breaking down and needing now not just a new caliper but also almost certainly also new rotor and pads as well as bracket clips on that side because seized calipers don't just suddenly seize completely outta no where , they first start sticking and therefore operating at much higher a temperature than designed to withstand and that increased heat will cause the caliper piston to expand and completely seize and lock up which will in a very brief time get so hot that the rotor and pads on that corner of the vehicle will be scortched to hell and back , and honestly a lot of times I have cars with locked up calipers that were driven in that condition instead of immediately no longer being driven , I usually recommend also having rhe abs sensor ajd wheel bearing reaplaced as the brakes often get so hot that I bakes the grease in the wheel bearing which will due to lack of lubrication cause the wheel bearing to begin wearing out at a rapid rate eventually failing completely. The abs sensors I replace bechar again due to such high temperatures it was exposed to , once cooled off , their platic bodies are so damn brittle that its almost impossible to remove them to do a wheel bearing replacement without the sensors crumbling apart into pieces , and all because in the end a mechanic decided to do a repair without using the proper tool that is designed specifically only for it's one job , and close poorly to use a hackers method thinking they can get the same job accomplished without the special tool , and like I said I've seen it dozens of times , guys do what you did , slip off the caliper piston causing a small or large tear in that outer dust seal. I'd rather take moe time to do rhw job right and make less money , than do a job faster and make more money but end up due to taking the butcher's short cut cost the custimer more money down the road abd potentially compromising their safety and well being . What is so hard about just doing things the right way ? I'll never understand why some people do butcher work but taking short cuts and somehow don't seem to understand that they actually just fucked up the car worse in the process of trying to fix it.
ANother good video! I just watched one of your others and asked why the piston needs to be turned while compressing. Can't you just use a large "C" clamp like you can on the front calipers?
Oh yeah now u see this it explains better
Ah, sanity check. I couldn't remember if the calipers turned clockwise or counterclockwise. Also, it helps to crack the bleeder valve before cranking down the piston to relieve the pressure.
Usully they seized up and will snap i don’t touch them or they will start to leak after u do it
Can I just compress the piston to inside without twisting? I have a brake pad spreader tool. Thanks.
Nope u have to twist it
Thank you so much for letting me konw.@@RBTheMechanic
You can use a screw driver or a flat metal to turn the rear caliper to
Yup I have video on that
If you twist anticlockwise will it decompress piston?
I never tried that but I do t think so I remember Turing back to even out the center line it had no decompression
Do you need to bleed the brakes once you change brake pads and compress the piston?
No just pump the brake peddle once’s ur all done before u start the car till peddle is hard
@@RBTheMechanic Sweet! Thanks man. I guess on the newer models you don't have to bleed them? I remember on the older models I would have to do that! How times have changed haha
@@goodguys4969 yup 👍
Wished I saw your video before I bought a new caliper. At least I learn something new. Thanks 🙏
Oh wow anyways yeah always good idea to learn and know for down the road
Thanks bro I was going (no were)😤 until I watched your video 👍
I’m glad u saw it I got few other videos on Honda’s very informative
Thanks. Silicone spray is the one that shoud you use instead of wd40.
Ok thanks will do from here on
Better yet ...... Brake Fluid
Video helped a lot. Thank you!!!
Welcome
U can use a 3/8” extension to screw it in. Put it in the square.
Yup thanks
I did this for the first time on my son’s Corolla last week. I noticed the boot was twisting so just backed the calliper piston off a quarter turn. All good.
I had to watch another video on how to compress the rear piston first. Does anyone know why they can’t just be pushed back into the calliper like the front ones? I was amazed that they needed screwing back! 😳
This calipers apply ebrake by twisting in its like they compress with hydraulic pressure and mechanical
@@RBTheMechanic There was another nice surprise for me, too. When I came to do the second rear pads, they both had tangs on, unlike the first ones. It dawned on me that the pads weren’t packaged in wheel pairs but in inboard and outboard pairs! Had to put wheel back on, drop car, Jack up other side, remove inboard pad from that wheel……pain in the ass!
I wish I could say, “I’ll know next time” but it’ll be so long that I’ll forget! 😩😂
@@trinkabuszczuk6138 yeah I need outter pads are diffrent
Where did you get the tool you used with the 3/8 or 1/4 drive? I’ve only ever seen them with cheap handles that don’t give a lot of leverage.
Snap on tool truck
ugh of course. the dang plastic handle on mine i just bought stripped and i had to use a vise grip on the bolt threads themselves just to get it unstuck and back to square one. headed back to the parts store now to hopefully return it and get this job done. ugh.
Work smarter not harder..you only remove lower caliper screw to flip caliper upwards.. never use wire brush on seals.. brake cleaner is all you need..
This certainly helped me. Nice one mate. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Nice glad it was a help!!!
Thanka for the video! Helped me with mine, I didnt know it was the rotating type
Yeah rotate and push!! Glad u figured it out!!
good straight to the point video! Love it.. thanks!
Yup Welcome
Why not just spray it down with brake cleaner? Just wondering why you didn't go that route?
That’s fine to I can take that rout next time
Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant. Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product's formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
It just to get it smooth for moment
It also contains solvents (petroleum distillates) that are not good for rubber (or paint).
@@slipshaft no
@@N_pop_2020 No? Are you agreeing or disagreeing? Its not bad for rubber if you wipe it off right away, but if you leave it then over time the rubber will soften, expand, and then degrade.
I had to go rent the piston retract tool .. I didn’t re install the paper clip like spring , on the pads .. didn’t see the purpose of it .. hopefully it , doesn’t effect the braking system
Ok it shouldn’t be big deal but it dose help the brakes move back out when ur letting go the brakes and prevent brake friction when not In use which is good for brakes and rotors from heating up but not a big deal it’s always missing when I get the cars that already had brakes changed previously
Thank you !!!! Was about to give up 😂 gotter done thanks to you
No problem
Can I just press it with U clamp, or has to be twist?
No u have to twist and push
Amazing job, saved me time cost and effort ! Thank you !
Nice!!
does the boot like the wire brush?
Soft brush not an issue
👍Great job i like your 📹video
Thank you RB... Gonna make changing the brake pads on my 2005 a lot easier.
No problem 👍
Whats that tool called specifically to search it up
Honda rear caliper compress tool kit a.co/d/g9eFzAm
Thank you so much for that!! 😁😁😁
@@alastairgray5648 no problem!!
Great video RB ! , thank you sir, 10/10 😃
Thank u
Clean rubber with wire brush? It could tear it down
Softly brush go easy!!!
I use an old toothbrush and mild soap . Rinse with Water in spray bottle .
@@LayneStaley-e1x yeah tooth brush works well
@user-rz5kf5fy2b can i use toothpaste instead of soap?
I will NOT use WD 40, I prefer brake cleaner, and before the piston go back in, I use a syringe to inject a few CC of brake fluid behind the dust seal. That lub the area the piston had to travel on and no more seize caliper.
Vid Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thank you this video was “very useful”. Happy New Year 🎊 and I wish you a wealthy, healthy, and happy 2022.
I’m glad my video helped u!! And I wish and know it will help millions in next year. Happy New year!! Stay safe
Ever video I have seen uses the special tool before showing how its done with a pry bar. If you dont have the tool, trust me, it is much harder than these guys make it out to be. For me, it was a two person job. One turning the piston, the other holding the caliper. The torque was high enough that we put an adjustable on the shank of the pry bar.
Yeah if ur caliper is some what jammed it will be complicated but that means time to replace it
@@RBTheMechanic depends where you live and drive. Every time I change pads, the pistons are stiff, but it doesn't mean they are bad.
In regular operation, the pistons barely move, they just increase pressure. In addition, the hydraulic force of the pump is far greater than a person can apply so it's not a surprise that they are stiff.
What size is the caliper piston sir?
No information of Alize of piston
Good job my brother,
God blessed you :)
Yuppp
Do you have to turn the piston? Can't you just push it back in?
Nope it need to be turned and push same time
@@RBTheMechanic My 2012 Civic (Europe) has Hill Assist, No adjustments to that Hill assist system?
@@Tintoycar what?
@@RBTheMechanic I can't damage the hill assist function while replacing the brake pads? (when i am on a hill and let go of the clutch, the rear drakes are active for 2 seconds eletronically)
@@Tintoycar this video is not electrical parking brake
Thanks for this video. I was doing it wrong . Was a big help.❤
Glad this video helped u
I'm leery of using a wire brush on rubber parts...is this OK? I think you may be better off using a nylon or similar brush with plastic fibers. Wire brush is fine if you avoid the rubber and just use it on the rusty metal parts. Same with WD-40...this product contains solvents (petroleum distillates) that are not good for rubber (and paint!) . The rubber can eventually dry out and crack. I'd recommend a silicone lubricant (or even an emulsified product like Armor-All, but be sure to avoid brake surfaces. Just dab it on a rag and wipe it on the rubber). Dude I'm a chemistry major and know what I'm talking about. I dont know how long it would take for the rubber to dry out and crack, and maybe you've been doing this forever with no problems, but I wouldnt recommend it. Otherwise great video and you're saving people a lot of time and grief. Here's a video on how to protect rubber boots on the underside of your car: th-cam.com/video/k19sd8tDAnE/w-d-xo.html
That brush I didn’t go hard on and it’s soft really soft
Ey es cierto k se tiene k abrir el aire de frenos cuando ases esto
Can you link that kit
Sorry don’t have link
I guess on the other one, did you have to turn it counterclockwise to undo the mess the other guy did?
No I just took my pick and slowly got it to come back to return spot little bit of lube helped lot
Good video
Is this also on a 2011 Accord?
Yup they all same up to 2013
2008-2012 same model@@RBTheMechanic or wider than that?
@@Car1Sagan it’s same
Don’t use a petroleum based oil like WD-40 because the rubber boot is made of petroleum material and the oil will eat the rubber then you’ll have a leak. Use a silicone based oil.
Will do so down the road
Everything sounds good, except me personally I don’t spray penetrant on rubber boots
Ok will keep that in mind
This is really helpful, thank you!
Yup welcome
Great video!!
Thank u!
Awesome, thank you
You're welcome!
excellent video. thanks
Thank you