THAT WAS A SHOCK ! Testing and inspecting electrical circuits.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- Dont forget to subscribe or il turn off your electricity
Join me on a day testing and inspecting. Also sorting out some diy electrical. Don’t forget to like and subscribe for future videos.
This video is for entertainment purposes only please do not attempt to copy or recreate this video in any. Do so at your own peril.
linktr.ee/CJRE...
4 mins in and 3 adds no thanx
So you expect him to pay for cameras and a microphone, edit videos for hours in his spare time, get the job done and record at the same time WHILST making no money for the videos?
This is more of YT trying to push people towards Premium.
Which I have done....hopefully the same amount of money/more ideally, goes to Chris.
Just to let anyone know if an ad is placed on my video by an advertiser worth say 10p youtube will take 70-80% of that leaving me 2p 👍
YT have got greedy with their ads lately, putting them in ridiculous places. it's not the creators doing this, it's YT's algorithms
CJR ELECTRICAL Which amusements arcade will these go to I wonder
Some RCD trips on Zs can be sorted by reversing the live and earth test probes. The result is still fine. It’s something to do with where the test occurs on the sine wave. This piece of advice was given to me by Megger technical support.
Mr. Blunders DIY (Destroy It Yourself) has kept us sparks busy over the years. He's made us a few Bob! The good old B and Q light, lol! He says, "it just goes bang when I turn the light on"!
I wish I had a pound for every time I'd heard that one!
Great videos mate, thanks for the posts!
Thank you for not messing around with the plumbing 😊
I love how high and mighty and amused some electricians are about DIY man's efforts , a lot of them pull off a decent job tbh , some dont but hey ho to me its not that hilarious its just ye whatever ill put it right and charge them 😉
“I think it was earthing that black and decker bench” 😂 😂
For loose connections on ringmains - tap socket fronts with screwdriver handle. Re-test on meter if there's loads of sockets. Works best on megger because continuity auto adjusts. 👍
Great thorough job Chris. It also highlights what other people should do but don't (workshop socket polarity)
Your a Legend Chris
Again. Top spark and busy but still invites us in. No criticism just admiration. Ps for the moaners, in my other line of work, when criticised by those who deemed themselves better, I used to say, show us your tax return... good people get hired. Well done Mr C.
Have to remember the old saying "never trust an electrician with no eyebrows"
Guten Morgen, that was perfect german :-)
Greetings from Hannover, Germany!
Er versteht nur Bahnhof 😋😊😉
Glaub schon
14:35 So what was with the "light" show?
First time I've seen one when you're doing a test sequence...
Contact Cleaning (ACC) - cleans tarnished contacts to improve loop readings. Essential on No-Trip but it's done on Hi-I too. Working with prods you'll encounter more oxide though I've never seen it quite like that!
Keep up the good work. Nice to see someone use a tool to its full potential.
When I was in the trade (many years ago), jbs were still used a lot. I never found a loose connection in properly installed jbs: when the terminals were tightened properly, they would give out a "squeaky noise", the same as tails do when the terminals in a connection unit ("Henly block") are tightened. I really dislike solid 2.5 sq. mm. conductors in 2.5 T&E cable: I used to find quite a few loose connections on socket outlets. The old 7/029 sq. in. cable which 2.5 replaced when metrication took place was far superior - we used to twist the conductors together: the terminal screws gave much better grip than is possible with solid cores. The better sparks used 3/029 for lighting, which equates to 1.5 sq. mm. The old cables with stranded conductors were more flexible as well, which made installation easier.
One that is easily overlooked is an immersion heater without a safety cutout with a plastic header tank. It wasn't easy to see if the immersion had a safety cutout in the video. Be safe peeps, I have read of a horrific case resulting from this that still brings tears to my eyes from years ago.
Good spot there was no cut out
That one had a cutout built into the stat. 18:17 you can see the reset hole.
my brand new house in Ireland had one socket in a bedroom which had L-N reversed, guess which sparky I'll never use again.
Tested a 10 year old Barratt house yesterday, sockets never been taken off the wall from new and they all had L-N reverse in one bedroom, guessing the boy did it and nobody checked ???
A case for why the old neon test drivers were good! See at a glance on one simple check whether L was on the right or left; right OK, left NO WAY! Still require the other tests clearly.
Awesome work mate, no corners cut. 👊
I had a belt of a rising earth from a loose earth wire, a few months ago. The shed had a faulty neutral and I inadvertently become a pathway back.
An inspection I did on a house in the coutryside , earth loop impedence readings were in excess of 85000 ohms.Another one, the client said they were getting small shocks off the radiators, taps and the kitchen draining board.The house was next to a field and mice had come in and chewed cables under the floor.At the mains position, they was no earth wire off of the earth terminal into the fuseboard, fuse on the ring main could not blow, and fault current was flowing round metal work items in the house.
Subscribed! New to your channel, was great seeing you go through and finding systems not meeting current standards
Another great video mr c , just watched mr big clive to see what you and mr naggy sent him. He always reminds me of the mad dock 😂
Take care Chris & Greeting from New Zealand
Don’t bother with calibration just get the Cal Card and keep a record yearly of each test only send for calibration if your results go west.
K C yep agree however I’m not disciplined enough for that 😂
I used to do monthly checks, including loop and rcd test, on my yearly assessment they still insisted on a current calibration certificate.
great inside out the trade , very knowledgeable, Im learning the trade and Im using kewtech as well, it will be great to guides US thrue the machine settings as well as from the type of testing.
I am an electrician in Canada and we don't do that kind of testing. You go through the testing pretty fast and I need to pick up on the lingo, but could you send out a link that explains the tests you are doing step by step and why they are being done. Simpler the better. I have done some Zs , earth loop impedance testing before but I forget a lot of it.
Great videos!
N-E swap should pop a functioning RCD in theory anyway: was the joke I was going to make until your other issue appeared. I love my 107, it's not a proper test but a vaguely indicative loop test can save a lot of time - and they're not expensive either, everybody should have one in their home IMHO.
Excellent work 👍
My immersion has no cable clamp provision and I had to bodge something with a cable tie! Also I replaced the cable with Toolstation rubber cable and after a few years it turned to squishy plasticene (and the heater is only used very occasionally as a backup), beware cheap "rubber" cable!
Chris your getting quite the joker ..
Lamps , bulbs , daffodils 🌼 whatever 😂 I did chuckle 🤭
led daffodils from now on
That laugh when you opened the pullcord 😂
Great video thanks for sharing one very small point at 16.43 you mention the bathroom down lights need to be a minimum of ip44 in zone 2, it should be ipx4 as a minimum or ipx5 if water jets (shower head) are present in either zone 1 or 2.
What's the problem with a plastic CU? Assuming this was installed a few years ago it doesn't need to comply with 3rd amendment. Also very minor things like no two colour sticker - costs 10p and takes 10 seconds to put one on - quicker to fix than to mention on the report!
Kewtech electrical test meters kt63 64 or 65, are really really good, been using em for +10 years, industrial test meters metrawatt, IR meter flir, general multimeters fluke, dead testing test meters megger, soldering equipment antex,
Chris. As it's the old red/black stuff, is there any chance some or all of the ring is 2.5mm T&E with 1mm CPC? Would explain a higher R2.
Possibly, plus ambient temp and copper/resin amounts aren't the same now as they were when cable was imperial.
Just curious what software do you use on your tablet for filling out the db's and certification mate as it looked good an straightforward, keep up the good work boys👌🏻
Me: JEES..!
CJR: "No Moaning!"
Me: *Stuffs mouth with surigal mask and keeps mumbling angrily*
Hi Chris
What software are you using on your phone?
Looks like ICertifi but I have had a nightmare using that.
Moved from Trimble on a laptop and looking for something on my phone or iPad.
Started using Electraform on laptop tethered to my computer phone but connection times out and I can lose a few results if I’m not careful.
I’ve ordered a sim for the iPad as electraform can be a bit cumbersome on a phone screen.
Perhaps I need an off line version as signal can be a bit pony sometimes too.
Love watching these videos with my son. He's gonna know how to do it right
fusebox make a four way RCBO board that would replace that muck nicely.
This is just so wrong - I haven't seen your socks for ages, there's no sarcasm or jokes. You're still my favourite plumber though, we even looked at one of you videos at college the other night and that was for level 2 electrical!
On a serious note, thanks for all the content. 😉
Mark.
You said to measure the insulation resistance at 250v but it should be done at twice the working voltage, so 500v DC was applicable. Not a criticism, just a gentle reminder to all them there folks out there. :-)
250v is a good indication that you might of missed something plugged in.
Zones 1 and 2 only extend to 225 cm from the floor IIRC (might be from the bottom of the bath/shower). Are those lights actually in the zone? Unless the ceiling is very low I'd expect they aren't.
Those down lights must have been in the bargain bin lol. IP20, most that I can find at my supplier for ~£7 are rated at least IP 65. One thing about the zones though, they look high enough to pass ? it may be sensible to replace them anyway for the minimal cost it involves.
@@KirstyTube Provided they're outside the zones I'd just replace them if they ever fail from corrosion.
Great Videos
Its cool)))))
Bathroom lights 🤣
Gutten Morgen Chris, off hand do you remember what video where you showed how long it really takes to do an EICR? I've been wanting to show this to my customers but can't find it, cheers
🤷🏻♂️
Unilite ❤️❤️❤️🌱 looks like it has a really nice tint and beam pattern 😀😀 is it the high CRI one? Can you show more of it?
Why do you need to bond the water if it’s poly pipe with an outside tap? Still no Earth potential being introduced by it?
@0:55 "Made in West Germany" -that's an old RCD! :D
I have the exact same rcd but made in Greece
@@latenight6815 *Square D* must've got around back in the day.
Guten Morgen from a german electrican.
:) :) :)
Hi sir . Sorry that good people as your self are still having to deal with dangerous and shoddy workmanship. I thought when the N I C , And other governing body’s became mandatory . We would see a decline in such work. Boy did I get that one wrong. If anything the cowboys are on the increase. But I also find it reassuring that their are still good professionals , as your self maintaining high quality and standards . So well done and credit to you . Just as a point of interest , we as a company would every week meet at the office and verify our test equipment , via a known source . Even when the equipment had been calibrated, it was as amazing how different the reading were between testers. 🤣 Best wishes and kind regards Mike in the U.K. 👍
On 2 of your issues found: plastic consumer unit - if this is existing before new regulation, it can stay? No surge protection - this is optional as long as you ask customer? Thanks
Also why does a plastic water supply have to be bonded just because there is an outside tap piped in copper?
Hi Chris, thinking about using icertifi- how do you log building control notifications? I am with NAPIT so guessing I would still need to log into my web page to create them. Cheers
Yep just log on insert the certificate number and pay the fee
The immersion heater did not have a police stat ?
That one had a cutout built into the stat. 18:17 you can see the reset hole.
@@UberAlphaSirus no there is not,if you buy a new heater now ,the cut out is not in the stat,there is a safety cut out which is a separate item from the main thermostat it's wired from one side of the stat in to and out of the safety stat to one side of the element
Nice job and video
If we start to write comments in german below this Video...
Moin this is another word for "Hello" her were I live in Ostfriesland Aurich Germany :)
By the way nice Video :) And greetings from Aurich Germany....
my biggest mistake when i was younger...not choosing the path of an electrician when i still lived with my mom
That's funny when I started as an apprentice (day1) I was told this was a crap job don't bother ,nice ,didn't take any notice and not regretted a minute .
Hey Chris , hope you’re well.
What test method did you use to get the earth rod resistance reading?
Loads of things wired the wrong way round... maybe the person who did it was cross eyed...🤪🤪
Dirty contacts =dirty sparks? lol
Are there actually many properly earthed devices for sale in the UK that really care about the polarity in a single phase 230V circuit, and where would inverted polarity present a hazard? In FInland virtually any device on the market will have to work properly at either polarity (common Schutzkontakt plugs and sockets as well as the "Russian" style are symmetric, as are the low power Euro plugs).
I know there are some rather funky ways to wire sockets in the US though. Wrong polarity on a single phase circuit can make a gas stove spark continuously after ignition, for example. Plus there are 2x120V wirings and 2 out of 3 phase 120/208V wiring styles in home settings (and appliances that can have heating elements fitted for either pahse-to-phase voltage) - and then a wiring more common in small industrial than home settings, where you have to understand vector math to understand the wiring, where a 4 contact socket can provide earth, 120V, 208V, and 240V.
It's to do with fuses being in the live side of a plug and also if you had a single pole socket which had the L-N reverse and you turned it off at the switch but left it plugged in while you repaired it etc you might get a belt
@@lewis94uk True, that is important in the UK ring system where every device has its own fuse and sockets are switched. That style of wiring isn't very common elsewhere AFAIK.
Measurements in tenths of ohms in the field is not that reliable. Just moving your clips around can change the reading.....
@ProfessionalAmateur Quite. I think you can only expect one decimal place accuracy for such tests at best, despite the demands of the regulations....
Chris nice one again. Ok same repeat every week- can we have the Rawl plug rods link don’t know where to get them.....
diy4u.co.uk/Item/cut-to-length-wall-plugs-300mm-red-green-blue?gclid=Cj0KCQjwtsv7BRCmARIsANu-CQe1hCkFwGg2fZhl5qEobXSvFQK8GIJiH0QiFttRSDpusWjY4BdgCggaAlEoEALw_wcB
Sorry 🙏
Thanks Chris everyone is asking for them might be worthwhile mentioning in your next video and including the link in the description box below.
Cheers mate.
You sure it wasn’t a 1.0mm earth ?
Terbaikkk..👍👍👍
Thanks
interesting and informative but Amusing that 08.30 - 15.30 with no lunch is a long day!! Try 12 hrs on a hospital ward without a break
Bollocks
@@adamsharp201 Don’t understand rationale for your comment, you obviously have no experience of healthcare work or sympathy for healthcare workers
@3.08 Seeing the clamp is put onto the outer part of the rather dirty nut on the earth rod, isn't that likely to increase the earth impedance reading?
Not if you wiggle the teeth through the dirt and corrosion to good metal before you test. You want to go to the nut and not the rod because you want to make sure the contact with the rod is good.
I've hit that fucking subscribe button! But I've hit that thing before! c'mon TH-cam, know that I've subscribed.
What software do us to do certificate?
So what's wrong with the RCD?
Isn't it supposed to trip like that?
kewtechs do trip some rcds ftr ...
That was a good one, Chris. Calls for some 'Shh - No Moaning' merch?
Brilliant work and thanks for the content stay safe and take care
Why IP44 lights? Such a small difference in cost means fit ELV IP65. I'm not a spark I'm a grad electrical and electronic engineer - I won't have ANY mains bulbs anywhere in or near a bathroom of mine! Ideally, even the 12v supply should be outside the bathroom in my book.
Nothing wrong with having suitably IP rated mains lighting in a bathroom, with RCD protection and correct fusing its all perfectly safe.
@@cbcdesign001 nothing wrong legally but definitely wrong logically. No wall switches in a bathroom but mains powered lights! There is a logical disconnect somewhere. No MAINS wall switches in a bathroom sure but who said they couldn't be 5 volt with relay or triac switches outside rather than these STUPID pull switches? Nah! The domestic electrical market needs to wake up! It's the 21st century! Running mains power to wall switches is
a) entirely unnecessary
b) ridiculous
c) non conducive to a modern safety oriented environment
Time to change ... It's WELL overdue!
20:31 In other words, this house is a semi-minor DISASTER and really should be rewired, starting from the where the local grid enters the house...
It's nothing that 10 Kg of Semtex, 6 months and a good general contractor can't fix...
6 months? I have rewired 3 story houses in a week. I have rewired a single story ranch in a day before.
@@Veritas-invenitur The 6 months is due to the Semtex (Plastic Explosive)...
It would take approx 6 months to blow up the house, clean out the pit caused by the blast, finish squaring up the hole for the new basement, pour the foundations and build the entirely new house on the site of the old one.
@@HappilyHomicidalHooligan Oh. Lol. I didn't realize you were talking about blowing it up. Lol. That went right over my head. 😂 One of my clients who owns a massive construction company bought up an entire street back during the 2008 housing crash. Tore the entire street down. 18 houses demolished and 8 rebuild and move in ready in the period of 14 months. Turned it into an exclusive and upscale gated community. It was his way of keeping his best guys working when everyone was getting laid off. In the end he barely broke even but for him it was more important to keep good help on the payroll so when things came back he had them than to make a profit or save some cash. He ended up selling his private jet and boat to fund the project as getting a construction loan at the time was a battle in of it self. Anyways what I am saying is you are right. A good contractor can do incredible things. On a side note. Doing what he did was the best thing he could have done in the long run. He is the one builder that never has a problem getting people to show up and hustle
What app do you use for testing on the iPad please Chris?
BUNDY10
Is it because Chris used your phrase "you good job"
Yeah I have to pay him every time I say it now.
Lol yep
@@NBundyElectrical Hi Nick, you've get to get the money to pay for your new van somehow
Hi Chris, possibly a silly question, but did you have the ATT on when testing the Zs? If not the RCD would trip.
What code ratings for all that? No SPD? What rating? Don’t the lights needs to say they are suitable for the zone rather than an IP rating?
For me I don't see the point in using anything other than IP65 fittings in a bathroom full stop (unless it's in zone 0) as the cost difference isn't worth bothering about
Just a quick one, shouldn’t you have carried out a ramp test on the RCD in the garage before writing it off?
How do you find your kewtech tester? In time for a new one for me
The Kt63plus is fantastic
Conditioning reports generally take me all day.
How much do you charge for an EICR? Just curious as a whole day of your life is very precious.
@@superturd8901 £280.00 + VAT.
Immersion heater R2. Boiler R2. Always disconnect the cpcs from the appliance. Parallel paths to earth via pipework. The actual cpc could be loose or disco'd somewhere.
Was it too much effort not to dust the tops of the sockets ?
Real electricians do not wear metal jewelry.
are proffesionals that don't laugh at their clients esp not on tv esp as youre here to sort out the mess and test. Im guesing youre new to being an electrician.
Did you even serve an apprenticeship?
Yes agree to many
*waits for the "first!" brigade to show up
Biggest waste of time trying to lower that earth by 0.06, it’s within the readings.
What difference does a outside tap make
If its copper pipe into the ground its effectively the same as main bonding for the house and needs bonding as it becomes a possible earth electrode
Would only worry about a outside tap unless exposed conductive parts are simultaneously available to touch + outside tap proved to be extraneous via test. 👍
I don't get it, if the tap doesn't have an earth potential then who cares where our what it is, maybe I should start to worry about metal door handles too, or the screws in my table
if the taps runs thru the earth or foundation with contact it cld still be used as a ground. and in the states we bound everything gas and water to main earth terminals as a 2ndery means to earth or a safty means. lets say main earth gets disconnected water and gas mains now become the earth. and lets say gas and water mains are non conductive but the feeder lines are and a live short happens to the lines the bounds to main earth means the current has a path to earth
@@oliverriall if they cld come into contact with a live cable cldnt hurt to have em earthed
Ive Been struggling with my AM2 recently. Only have the testing and inspection part left to do. Unfortunately my company does not do much testing at all. Is there anything you could recommend to keep in mind or look at to get past this final hurdle??
Guidance notes 3 fantastic book
Hi mate make sure you test at every point. That’s what i failed on. Didn’t test r1 r2 on a switch fuse spur on the ring.
Non fire resistant CU isn’t a fail is it? Only if installed to 18 th ...
Correct just a c3
10:00 the science was right wasn't it? You had a reading of 0.22 ohms for R11/Rnn. 0.22 x 1.67 = 0.3673 and you got a reading (eventually!) of 0.37 when you measured R22
Exactly what I was thinking too 😂
Hidden junction boxes? It should be forbidden, connections allowed only at sockets and loads. Longer wires may be required but at least no floor ripping is required.
In the USA hidden junction boxes are illegal.
Surge protection? Why?
you need a go pro head camera ,no working one handed
Sorry sir I failed the moaning test. o.o
And also I was totally oblivious when I had wired in the basement lighting that had tube lights that we converted to LED tube lightening then now switching that tube lighting to flat panel LED.
And why I missed it for so long but there was absolutely no ground wire in the box the idiots had cut the ground off and thought since it was a screw in light bulb that used to be in the original box that they only needed the live and neutral.
And had no ground wire on the box at all.
So what I did temporary is I put a wire from the old original "transformer box" to a screw on the outside which in theory the metal casing is suppose to be grounded.
I did that hopefully grounded now hack temporary for now eventually my folks will remodel the basement and get new wiring in but in the mean time I hope my ground job worked. o.o
And I do not know about US electrical things here I was just trying to get it safe or hope it is any ways. xD
I still have two more LED panels to put up I can do a quick video and some photos of it and show the wiring situation.
Oh yeah and it is the old cloth wiring too and the black and white are dangerously close to the same color from the age so basically have that fun part to look forward to in getting the new light panels up.
If only there was some relatively cheap way to test ground...
@15:46 is the reason why i charge extra if the homeowner worked on it before i get there
Would the water still need bonding if it was plastic pipe but had an outside tap. Not sure what difference the tap makes?
if the taps runs thru the earth or foundation with direct contact as to have earthing potential it cld still be used as a ground.
in the states we bound everything gas and water to main earth terminals as a 2ndery means to earth or a safty means.
lets say main earth gets disconnected water and gas mains now become the only earth means. lets say gas and water mains are non conductive but the feeder lines are and a live short happens (a live wire falls fom box or fixture gets cut )to those lines the bounds to main earth means the current has a path to earth.
@@westinthewest lol sorry we yanks are known to be fast paced in work and language
@@wizard3z868 If you lose the earth rod the gas main is NOT a safe or legal back up. You do have to bond the gas line to the ground circuit, but that's not intended to be a secondary. It's to avoid static buildup in the gas system. The water line is a suitable secondary ground. Back in the "old days" ( before 3-prong sockets and safety grounds) the main panel was earth grounded through the water line only.
Guten Morgen aswell