Thank you Christos. Had the issue with my LX49+ and your video came up instantly describing the same issue. I had no problems fixing it. Hole ftw. Now back to making music.
Same issue here with the parameter jumps.... the potentiometer b10k 68° is just faulty and cleaning it only helped for a couple of days... I turned the Pitch Bend Wheel off altogether on my Impact LX49+ : for reference, you will find this in the manual under "Assigning Controls to MIDI messages", the paragraph about "Data 1 and Data 2 Values (C#1 & C#2) : Press [Preset] Press [Shift]+ [Patch>] (Setup) The display now reads {S.E.t.} with the 3 display dots {...} blinking Now press the Data 1 button on the keyboard (C#1) and the display will read {d1} Now wiggle the Pitch Bend Wheel to tell the keyboard which control you want to alter. It will show the MAXIMUM value (1.2.7.) Find the + and - buttons on your Keybed ( C3, C#3) and make the value 0.6.4. Press Enter (Highest note on your keyboard probably (C5) Repeat this for data 2 Press [Preset] Press [Shift]+ [Patch>] (Setup) The display now reads {S.E.t.} with the 3 display dots {...} blinking Now press the Data 1 button on the keyboard (D#1) and the display will read {d2} Now wiggle the Pitch Bend Wheel to tell the keyboard which control you want to alter. It will show the MAXIMUM value (1.2.7.) Find the + and - buttons on your Keybed ( C3, C#3) and make the value 0.6.4. Press Enter (Highest note on your keyboard probably (C5) Done. Modwheel max Data 0 no function basically.
Thanks that fixed my problem with my LX25+ Nektar. Recalibrating the hardware with the screw and a hole in my case didn't fix this issue because the potentiometer is nervous and jumps always from one value to another. So i deactivated the Pitch Bend Wheel with "Assigning Controls to MIDI messages" like mentioned. Back to music...
@@christoskaisaris4726 the opening part isn´t really a big issue... just takes 15minutes to do the mod.. but since everything is plasticy in the mechanic it is really hard to "callibrate" and at some point if the potentiometer is broken there is no fixing it... I often need pitch bend but since I have some other synths I still use this USB controller... to be fair the keybed feels really good and unless you go fatar all the other midi controllers that cost beyond 200-300 are still having this plasticy feel that is not an improvement over this one.
@@mmsinfluense yeah wasn't opening before and i was swinging my screwdriver in all directions inside it, looking for a latch. But then i applied a little more force just to lift the cover at an angle and it opened up.
You can also set the min/max range of the data sent by the pitch bend wheel to 0 or 64, with instructions starting on page 20 of the manual. this basically turns it off and I chose to do that because i never use it and it's super glitchy.
@@kanishksharma9041by pressing setup tab after that by pressing 3 white key what known as E and then move pitch wheel to get assigned you gonna see pbd on display after that again press 1st black key to enter inside data what known as c sharp then put entirely 0.0.0 what is 1.2.7 using - sign key
If I remember correctly, you have to hold the square plastic piece that is in the center.... Νot the circular one,(the outside part), to unscrew the A screw...
i think it is the cheap hardware , at least in mine keyboard... check if you move the pitchbend or modulation, it will stable it,at least for a while? or check it, in a midi software to see wich key does it.... you can try to adjust the central screw at pitchbend if this is the problem...
Hi, i had the same problem lately and i found that if you open the metallic cover of potentiometer (pitch bend or modulation wheel) and clean it carefully with alcohol, the problem solved!!!
hi, i did not have the same problem but when i dissasembly the midi and take off the keyboard (0.40"), i clean the rubber contact under the keys... i think it will fix it! Good Luck... Check this video also to help you..(th-cam.com/video/lkcNlOhWM34/w-d-xo.html)
It's a solution but not the best (wd40). It is better to use an electrical contact cleaner. Since I hadn't also, i used alcohol for cleaning and a little vaseline in the center for lubrication...
Hi, there is a lock at the right side where it's written nektar (a charging port looking thing, but just empty). I tried finding anything about it over internet but was unsuccessful. If someone know how to open it, please let me know. Thanks.
Hi, It is called as Kinsington Lock, Alternatively referred to as a K lock or K slot, the Kensington lock is small hole found on almost every portable computer made after the year 2000. (from Mohit Bhatnagar)
O meu esta com problemas nos knobs, ficam enviando informações sozinho para a daw, alguem com esse mesmo problema ? Tb estou com o problema do pitch e da modulation.
i have pitch bend problem, whenever i used it it cannot return to the main pitch, so i disconnect pitch bend and modulation wheel but sometimes i wanna use that wheel, so i'll try this method...thanks for the video
when I disconnect pitch bend and modulation cable , it still sends midi data especially pitch bend data's! ? I don't use them normally so I can discard it forever but how on earth it can still send pitch bend data when disconnected?
Hi, i think you can, but you have to open it to be sure, i don't remember.... i can see at 0:50 that the cable from the pitch ends in a black fuse. I think it is together with the cable from Modulation wheel but maybe the fuse it is two parts... Also you can give from your midi software a remote mapping for your Pitch bend, to a knob that you never use...
Thank you Christos.
Had the issue with my LX49+ and your video came up instantly describing the same issue. I had no problems fixing it. Hole ftw. Now back to making music.
really happy to hear it... thank you!
Same issue here with the parameter jumps.... the potentiometer b10k 68° is just faulty and cleaning it only helped for a couple of days... I turned the Pitch Bend Wheel off altogether on my Impact LX49+ :
for reference, you will find this in the manual under "Assigning Controls to MIDI messages", the paragraph about "Data 1 and Data 2 Values (C#1 & C#2) :
Press [Preset]
Press [Shift]+ [Patch>] (Setup)
The display now reads {S.E.t.} with the 3 display dots {...} blinking
Now press the Data 1 button on the keyboard (C#1) and the display will read {d1}
Now wiggle the Pitch Bend Wheel to tell the keyboard which control you want to alter. It will show the MAXIMUM value (1.2.7.)
Find the + and - buttons on your Keybed ( C3, C#3) and make the value 0.6.4.
Press Enter (Highest note on your keyboard probably (C5)
Repeat this for data 2
Press [Preset]
Press [Shift]+ [Patch>] (Setup)
The display now reads {S.E.t.} with the 3 display dots {...} blinking
Now press the Data 1 button on the keyboard (D#1) and the display will read {d2}
Now wiggle the Pitch Bend Wheel to tell the keyboard which control you want to alter. It will show the MAXIMUM value (1.2.7.)
Find the + and - buttons on your Keybed ( C3, C#3) and make the value 0.6.4.
Press Enter (Highest note on your keyboard probably (C5)
Done.
Modwheel max Data 0 no function basically.
Dude, THANK YOU! This has to be the most annoying thing ever. But your tip pretty much fixed it. ♥
A much easier fix - thank you! Now I'm gonna sell it!
Thanks that fixed my problem with my LX25+ Nektar. Recalibrating the hardware with the screw and a hole in my case didn't fix this issue because the potentiometer is nervous and jumps always from one value to another. So i deactivated the Pitch Bend Wheel with "Assigning Controls to MIDI messages" like mentioned. Back to music...
Yes, thanks, you can do that, if you do not need the pitch bend, it is the easiest way to terminate/close, the pitch bend, without open it...
@@christoskaisaris4726 the opening part isn´t really a big issue... just takes 15minutes to do the mod.. but since everything is plasticy in the mechanic it is really hard to "callibrate" and at some point if the potentiometer is broken there is no fixing it... I often need pitch bend but since I have some other synths I still use this USB controller... to be fair the keybed feels really good and unless you go fatar all the other midi controllers that cost beyond 200-300 are still having this plasticy feel that is not an improvement over this one.
this method is totally transferable to the Impact GX49, worked great and drilling a hole in the side is genius great call!
That's very nice to hear... Thank you!
hi, mine is gx61, how did you open the lock?
@@nishchayjha you don't have to... only if you had a Kinsington lock for safety....
@@mmsinfluense yeah wasn't opening before and i was swinging my screwdriver in all directions inside it, looking for a latch. But then i applied a little more force just to lift the cover at an angle and it opened up.
You can also set the min/max range of the data sent by the pitch bend wheel to 0 or 64, with instructions starting on page 20 of the manual. this basically turns it off and I chose to do that because i never use it and it's super glitchy.
Nice Tip!
hey please guide me how to do that
@@kanishksharma9041by pressing setup tab after that by pressing 3 white key what known as E and then move pitch wheel to get assigned you gonna see pbd on display after that again press 1st black key to enter inside data what known as c sharp then put entirely 0.0.0 what is 1.2.7 using - sign key
Fixed ! Thank you
You're welcome, good to hear
Does this work for same problem with Nektar SE61?
Sorry, i don't know, but i believe it is almost the same (the potesiometer), if you decide to open it, i am almost sure that you going to fix it...😁
@@christoskaisaris4726 Thanks for your reply. GBU.
Reset my LX49+ to defaults and that fixed it for me.
Hi, I had tried this before as a first resort, but without success. Lucky for you it worked!
But I cant adjust the A screw. I think if I give full presser, it will be broke. What shall I do. Please help me.
If I remember correctly, you have to hold the square plastic piece that is in the center.... Νot the circular one,(the outside part), to unscrew the A screw...
@@mmsinfluense Thank you
Nowadays it sends CC data randomly without touching anything , is there anyone has this too or knowing the solution? thanks in advance
i think it is the cheap hardware , at least in mine keyboard...
check if you move the pitchbend or modulation, it will stable it,at least for a while?
or check it, in a midi software to see wich key does it....
you can try to adjust the central screw at pitchbend if this is the problem...
Hi, i had the same problem lately and i found that if you open the metallic cover of potentiometer (pitch bend or modulation wheel) and clean it carefully with alcohol, the problem solved!!!
I have an issue with the keys, everything is working except the keys, but the last octave is working as well, how can I fix that
hi, i did not have the same problem but when i dissasembly the midi and take off the keyboard (0.40"), i clean the rubber contact under the keys... i think it will fix it!
Good Luck... Check this video also to help you..(th-cam.com/video/lkcNlOhWM34/w-d-xo.html)
Can i use WD40 on the central silver screw (A)?
It's a solution but not the best (wd40). It is better to use an electrical contact cleaner.
Since I hadn't also, i used alcohol for cleaning and a little vaseline in the center for lubrication...
Hi, there is a lock at the right side where it's written nektar (a charging port looking thing, but just empty). I tried finding anything about it over internet but was unsuccessful. If someone know how to open it, please let me know. Thanks.
Hi, It is called as Kinsington Lock, Alternatively referred to as a K lock or K slot, the Kensington lock is small hole found on almost every portable computer made after the year 2000. (from Mohit Bhatnagar)
@@mmsinfluense Ooh....thanks for the info :D
How to open the lock in nector to open the panel
Sorry but mine has no lock...
hi, were you able to open the lock?
That hole it's a amazin idea, man!
😅 thanks! Also if you leave only 7 screws (6 on the side and 1 on the center), it opens easier...
At 0:49 when you unscrew that how do you lift the wheel?
Sorry for the delay, if i remember correctly you just pop it out (from the inside), be carefull with the cables...
O meu esta com problemas nos knobs, ficam enviando informações sozinho para a daw, alguem com esse mesmo problema ? Tb estou com o problema do pitch e da modulation.
Tenho o mesmo problema. Está constantemente a mudar a afinação e isso estraga tudo. Não sei o que fazer.
Thank you
Hope you fix it!😁
i have pitch bend problem, whenever i used it it cannot return to the main pitch, so i disconnect pitch bend and modulation wheel but sometimes i wanna use that wheel, so i'll try this method...thanks for the video
i hope to fix it..
@@mmsinfluense yes i can fix it, so thanks again for this video
@@te-a_stonebridge_xg nice to hear...😀
when I disconnect pitch bend and modulation cable , it still sends midi data especially pitch bend data's! ? I don't use them normally so I can discard it forever but how on earth it can still send pitch bend data when disconnected?
How to reset impact LX 49?
Hi... Turn the keyboard off. Hold both Octave buttons while turning the Impact back on... From google search, it is correct...
Can I disconnect the pitch bend from the keyboard?
Hi, i think you can, but you have to open it to be sure, i don't remember....
i can see at 0:50 that the cable from the pitch ends in a black fuse.
I think it is together with the cable from Modulation wheel but maybe the fuse it is two parts...
Also you can give from your midi software a remote mapping for your Pitch bend, to a knob that you never use...
Ooooh I'ma put a hole in my LX61+
😂 it sounds like a title of a song...
seems like this type of Midi controller have the same problem with the pitch bend all over the world
yes...😁
YEP IVE BOUGHT 2 NEKTARS BOTH HAD THE SAME PROBLEM, I HAVE NO WAY TO FIX IT.