I had such a hard time prying it off. I ended up using a map torch until the big part of the switch popped off. But that left a small amount of metal still on the shaft. I ended up just using the map torch again for about a minute and the metal around the shaft melted like solder. Just a pointer so people dont have to struggle getting it off. When it doubt, burn it out.
Yeah i did two videos on this, and the other video shows how it burns/melts like solder just like you said. So weird right? I appreciate the input and im glad you got it!
Great video!! Good instruction given!! You safed my day ,,mine broke out and did the melting method just as you explain and boom easy peacy ..(Tacoma) Thanks!! ❤
Thanks for the video! just a question. My 2011 Tundra has my range (4hi/4lo) blinking and my abs trips out, would replacing my Neutral safety switch be the right place to start?
@@Risran honestly I would start with a Diagnostic scan, whatever codes pop up should lead you in the right direction. I wouldn't recommend replacing it until you know for sure its the issue. I just don't want to see you throw money down the drain
@Motorcycle_Man Yea, as I was typing that I thought the same thing. I've been meaning to buy a scanner for a while so I'll use that as an excuse. Thanks for replying!
Question! Why needs in the neutral to replace the parts? At the beginning of the video you remove the old Neutral Safety switch that not in the neutral right? Why install the new switch will be to neutral? I don’t understand. Thank you very much?
The new switch needs to be aligned with the black mark in neutral. I just turned the switch by moving the shufter in neutral and it goes on that way only. Also you dont have to disconnect the battery, but if you have codes for the switch it will help to clear them if you disconnect battery
@@Motorcycle_Man I just removed the old switch out and put in the new switch. I do not in the neutral line . But still working. Just make sure switch hole and transmission hole is the same that will be fit . Because if wrong way the switch hole and transmission holes will be not same. Thank you
Do you know if parking can be engaged by turning the shaft after removing the switch? I'm troubleshooting a 2013 Corolla that won't shift into park. I've detached the cable from the lever and can shift from D to L, but I can't push the lever to engage park. I'm considering removing the switch, but I'm unsure if it's necessary. What I need to determine is whether, with the cable removed from the lever, I can engage parking by manipulating the lever, or if there are prerequisites such as having the vehicle on to power a solenoid or other factors I may have overlooked.
@@Motorcycle_Man That means my problem is most likely the transmission pawl then. I removed the switch, just incase something was ceased. I can manually shift the shaft from L to D and Neutral, but cant shift it into reverse and park. I guess I am SOL and need to open the transmission.
Good advice using a torch to remove/melt the main body BUT I did not use heat to remove the collar still remaining on the shaft for fear of destroying the shaft seal.I used a tie rod puller OTC 7315a which worked perfectly.Also I should mention that I removed the oxygen sensor to give me more room to work with..hope this helps someone
You are correct, It is risky doing it that way precisely because of what you said. Going with your alternate method would be preferable. Thanks for the input
I've done it a few times so I figured out a few tricks😀 I did two videos on this, here's the other one if you want to watch that Also th-cam.com/video/6_cq99fCFUg/w-d-xo.html Good Luck!
So I just did this. took about 4 hours, 2 IPAs, at least 10 Fbombs. break off the unit like he says, then torch the unit and it comes off easy. Trying to pry off the rest, sucks. Just burn it. Burn the F out of it. It will not just slide off, but it comes off. New unit on and working great. Tis is a real MoFo PITA. but all done and works great.
Yeah it can definitely be tricky, I know on my first couple I did, It took me quite a bit longer. But now I can do it in less than an hour all said and done. I appreciate your input, Thanks for watching!
Knock it loose with a small chisel and ball peen. No need to use heat as that is not a chassis component. Those transmissions are not cheap so no need to be in a hurry.
@KyleBohannon-yi9tc If you are careful and you keep the seal damp with a spray bottle you will be fine. Just don't go crazy with the torch Maybe even use a small hand held one if possible
I had such a hard time prying it off. I ended up using a map torch until the big part of the switch popped off. But that left a small amount of metal still on the shaft. I ended up just using the map torch again for about a minute and the metal around the shaft melted like solder. Just a pointer so people dont have to struggle getting it off. When it doubt, burn it out.
Yeah i did two videos on this, and the other video shows how it burns/melts like solder just like you said.
So weird right? I appreciate the input and im glad you got it!
Perfect video. Nice time see an actual tech in some of these. 🍻
Thanks 👍
Great video!! Good instruction given!!
You safed my day ,,mine broke out and did the melting method just as you explain and boom easy peacy ..(Tacoma)
Thanks!! ❤
Im very happy to hear this!!
Nice video !!!!! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the video! just a question. My 2011 Tundra has my range (4hi/4lo) blinking and my abs trips out, would replacing my Neutral safety switch be the right place to start?
@@Risran honestly I would start with a Diagnostic scan, whatever codes pop up should lead you in the right direction.
I wouldn't recommend replacing it until you know for sure its the issue.
I just don't want to see you throw money down the drain
@Motorcycle_Man Yea, as I was typing that I thought the same thing. I've been meaning to buy a scanner for a while so I'll use that as an excuse. Thanks for replying!
@Risran happy to help!
Thanks for sharing 🌿
Question!
Why needs in the neutral to replace the parts? At the beginning of the video you remove the old Neutral Safety switch that not in the neutral right? Why install the new switch will be to neutral? I don’t understand. Thank you very much?
The new switch needs to be aligned with the black mark in neutral.
I just turned the switch by moving the shufter in neutral and it goes on that way only.
Also you dont have to disconnect the battery, but if you have codes for the switch it will help to clear them if you disconnect battery
Hopefully this helps and makes sense
@@Motorcycle_Man I just removed the old switch out and put in the new switch. I do not in the neutral line . But still working. Just make sure switch hole and transmission hole is the same that will be fit . Because if wrong way the switch hole and transmission holes will be not same. Thank you
Do you know if parking can be engaged by turning the shaft after removing the switch? I'm troubleshooting a 2013 Corolla that won't shift into park. I've detached the cable from the lever and can shift from D to L, but I can't push the lever to engage park. I'm considering removing the switch, but I'm unsure if it's necessary.
What I need to determine is whether, with the cable removed from the lever, I can engage parking by manipulating the lever, or if there are prerequisites such as having the vehicle on to power a solenoid or other factors I may have overlooked.
Yes, it can be done by just turning the shaft no problem at all. I did it on this one
@@Motorcycle_Man That means my problem is most likely the transmission pawl then. I removed the switch, just incase something was ceased. I can manually shift the shaft from L to D and Neutral, but cant shift it into reverse and park. I guess I am SOL and need to open the transmission.
Good advice using a torch to remove/melt the main body BUT I did not use heat to remove the collar still remaining on the shaft for fear of destroying the shaft seal.I used a tie rod puller OTC 7315a which worked perfectly.Also I should mention that I removed the oxygen sensor to give me more room to work with..hope this helps someone
You are correct, It is risky doing it that way precisely because of what you said.
Going with your alternate method would be preferable.
Thanks for the input
damn. about to tackle this over the weekend. Thats the easiest I've seen anyone get that off.
I've done it a few times so I figured out a few tricks😀
I did two videos on this, here's the other one if you want to watch that Also
th-cam.com/video/6_cq99fCFUg/w-d-xo.html
Good Luck!
Should the tranny be in Neutral?
Yes, sorry I missed this comment...
Mines stuck on the 3 it want go to natural are park it was working fine Into installed a new radio
So I just did this. took about 4 hours, 2 IPAs, at least 10 Fbombs. break off the unit like he says, then
torch the unit and it comes off easy. Trying to pry off the rest, sucks. Just burn it. Burn the F out of it. It will not just slide off, but it comes off.
New unit on and working great. Tis is a real MoFo PITA. but all done and works great.
Yeah it can definitely be tricky, I know on my first couple I did, It took me quite a bit longer. But now I can do it in less than an hour all said and done.
I appreciate your input, Thanks for watching!
Knock it loose with a small chisel and ball peen. No need to use heat as that is not a chassis component. Those transmissions are not cheap so no need to be in a hurry.
I was waiting to read a comment about melting seal or even worse something deeper. I'm gonna try avoiding heat if possible.
@KyleBohannon-yi9tc If you are careful and you keep the seal damp with a spray bottle you will be fine.
Just don't go crazy with the torch
Maybe even use a small hand held one if possible
First thing should be to disconnect the battery.
Why need to disconnect the battery? Thank you
Always show us where it's located. 😂
Promo'SM
Explain