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F-150 Ford Tailgate Damper Kit OEM 2015-2019 Installation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2024
- Freddy shows you how to install this Ford OEM Tailgate Damper Kit on your 2015-2019 F-150.
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Not all F-150's were factory equipped with this helpful Ford tailgate damper, but if your truck is lacking this beneficial part, now you can add it yourself with this awesome kit! Safely lowering your tailgate, this OEM tailgate assist kit will make your tailgate descend in a safe and controlled way!
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I've installed several of these Ford oem tailgate dampener. You do not need to unplug the harness to the camera and remove the tailgate to install. Place a coating of towels or blanket on top of the bumper making sure the right side is well cushioned to prevent damage to tailgate or bumper. Leave the left tailgate strap attached, raise the gate from the right hinge and lay it on the cushioned bumper leaving the left side of the tailgate attached to it's hinge. You will need to pull the right corner of the tailgate rearward about 3 inches to perform the rest of the install. As said done this numerous times with zero damage.
True. I actually just unhooked the passenger side cable and disengaged it from the passenger side hinge and my wife held it for the three minutes it took to swap out the hinge.
Thanks guys! Doing this today... 🍻 🇺🇸
@@jerryjeromehawkins1712 how'd it go?
**** Some Advice *****
I just did mine today. Two things I will mention that none of these videos seems to point out.
#1 - The T50 Torx bolts do not come out easy if it's your first time taking the hinge off. It looks like the factory puts some blue lock tight stuff on them. What I did was spray the ends inside the tail light compartment with some DW40, You can use Liquid Wrench or some other brand of penetrating oil). I then tried to unscrew them until they got tight again, then I sprayed the Head side of the bolt and screwed them pretty much all the way back in, then I sprayed the end in the Tail Light compartment again and repeated this process until I got them out. I found this to be less of a struggle because I was getting no where fast just trying to muscle them out and I was really afraid I would strip my torx or break something. Also, I would recommend that you leave both bolts in until you have them both loose enough to remove both at the same time. So if you get one completely out, put it back in all the way until you get the other one loose all the way. Once both bolts are loose you can remove them both very easily.
#2 - The Tail Light - Once you remove the two smaller screws in the tailgate side that hold the tail light to the truck.. there are three connection points for the tail light assemble (at least for my model there was). There is point on the very back top of the assembly ( @1:45 in the video, as soon as he pulls the back of the light, you can see the hole where the first point goes in, so make sure you pull back a little on the back of the tail light so this point disengages. The other two points are on the far side of the tail light assembly, so once you clear the back point then you want to remove the assembly by slowly pulling it backwards. My tail light assembly felt like it was sealed with something all around the perimeter, so I had to work it slowly by wiggling it, I could hear and see the seal being broken as I wiggled it. the seal broke from the back of the truck and then slowing around the top and the bottom and around to the front. Once this seal was broken the assembly was very easy to pull back and then undo the plug. I only had one plug to my tail light. When you go to put the tail light back in place make sure you line up all three connection points. Look at the back of the tail light assembly and you will see the two points top and bottom on the front of the assembly (on the part of the assembly that is on the side of the truck and furthest forward. The other connection point is the first one I described above, on the back and top of the assembly. Make sure all three of these connection points are lined up before you try snapping the light back in place. If you are having issues getting the screw holes to line up, it might be because you don't have the connection points in the right place.
This comment could not be more underrated. The T50 bolts are extremely difficult to remove if you haven’t done so before
I just did this yesterday. A few tips.
-Not sure about earlier models but my 2020 F-150 used Torx Plus (vice regular torx). You could probably get it done with regular torx but if you have a torx plus set, that is what you should use.
-Mine had red Loctite on the threads. I muscled mine out but had I known before hand, I would have heated the nut retainer (behind the taillight) with my heat gun or torch first due to red Loctite. If you don't have that, hit it with some penetrating oil first and let it soak a while.
-If you have a helper, you do not need to remove the tailgate. I just put a bath towel on the passenger side of my bumper, unhooked the passenger side cable, and then disengaged the passenger side hinge. We rested that side on the towel (while leaving the harness connected and the driver's side still engaged in the hinge). While I replaced the passenger side hinge, my wife just held the tailgate there for the few minutes it took me to swap the hinge.
-Once you get the hinge in place, install the tailgate. You will need to move the tailgate up and down to enable installation of the damper on the ball sockets.
-As a note, I painted my damper hinge the factory color prior to installation so it wouldn't stand out. It's a little thing but I'm glad I took the time to do it. You can get factory matched paint at most automotive stores or online (Dupli-Color). I got mine from a place called Paint Express since Dupli-Color didn't make my specific color (Blue Jeans).
Ohhh! Torx Plus! that explains why the end of my USA made T-50 was stripping... I ordered a TP-50 and hopefully that, along with maybe removing some paint from the threads, heating the Loctite, applying penetrating oil, and using a back and a back and forth technique, I can hopefully get those bolts removed. Thank you very much for that critical piece of info!
Excellent video. Very thorough without any unnecessary commentary and/or content. Great additional tips in the comments by the viewers as well. Nicely done all the way around!
The T50 bolts have red lock tite on them. Red lock tite needs heat to break free (Blue does not). If you have a soldering iron, hold the iron on the back side of the bolt for a few mins. The heat will travel and loosen the lock tite. You can break the bolt or strip the head of you don’t do this.
Thanks for the heads up, that's a good idea
Wish I saw this, nearly stripped the top T50 bolt trying to take it out
good vid; thanks; just installed one on my 2019 XLT. Recommendation; removing and re-installing the tailgate is best done with 2 people, so you don't scratch up the tailgate or around the rear tail light area.
When I was removing the large torqx bolts the top came out fairly nicely, the bottom not so much. I put a solder torch on the captivated nut briefly (less than 5 seconds) it then it came right out. The manufacture put thread seal on them. Note: a safer option would be to use a heat gun, it will just take a little longer.
yeah the dealer does love its thread lock
Thanks for the video, just installed mine.
Just did this today. All in all took me about 20 minutes. I was not able to disconnect the entire tailgate but it turns out I didn't need to. I was able to lay it flat and pull it out just a bit and placed a saw horse underneath. Bolts were a bitch to take out with a ratchet, so I used an 1/2" impact gun, bingo! After that it was easy to take the tail light out and connect the piston. Works awesome! Hard to believe they didn't come stock but not a hard thing to add.
You don't need to take off tailgate. Don't even have to take off the cables. Did mine took 15 mins. Just back off tailgate out of the piece your replacing. Just put blanket under tailgate so you don't scratch it. You have room to replace the piece.
Remove the tail light by pulling it straight backwards. It’s hard to tell which direction these clips go and you end up breaking two or three of them. If you don’t know that it doesn’t pull out but it pulls back.
Just did mine. Bambam NJ is dead on in his write up below. I also had a brutal time fitting the tailgate after I was done with everything. I did not line up the new mounting hardware exactly as the previous one and could not mount the tailgate. Had to loosen the bolts and realign everything. The tailgate is definitely a 2 man job. I would also wash my truck (tailgate) before the install. Dirt and greasy hands don’t mix.
Ok so what they don’t tell you is that you need to not connect the top strut button until the tailgate is back on the truck. If you don’t you’ll have to move the strut down to get the right tailgate aligned up on the passenger side. Then you pull the strut up to the top as the last step before putting the twilight back on.
My truck didn’t come with this “twilight” you speak of sir. Lol Must be special edition. JK
Well that's just stupid easy....now I'm gonna have to get one. :)
If a little alteration, you think it would work on a new ranger? I mean a hole would have to be drilled to fit it threw the wall and maybe a hook point for the shock. I have a assist shock but it's visible and makes the tailgate cable stick out to be seen when closed. Just would like for a cleaner look is all.
Will this work on the 2017 F250s?
Does this work with taillights that have the blind spot monitor?
Would this work on a 2008 XLT
Anyone else find the tailgate much "heavier" when lifting it backup? I'm not sure if there is a strut adjustment that corrects this but it seems like there's quite a bit of resistance when raising the tailgate back up since the install.
I couldn't get my tailgate off on the driver side. I was able to get just enough play and lay the gate open with driver side all together and passenger side unhooked. Little slower but got it done.
I couldn't remove mine from the left side either, so I just lowered it down onto some cloths to cushion the outside of the tailgate from scratches. It was a little cumbersome as the tailgate is in the way a little but got it done. The shock does not dampen the drop as much as I had hoped or saw in this video. Don't know that my OEM is any better than the knock offs. Also my tail gate now rubs on the plastic guide that keeps the tailgate from moving from side to side which make an annoying rubbing sound when raised or lowered.
Great install video. Only thing I think could've made it better is to show how it functions at the end so people know what to expect. I know it seems dumb, but one might wonder just how softly this is supposed to drop after install.
What video did you watch?? He does exactly this at 3:09.
@@jomjose3121 I guess I missed it. Again.
Consider outlining the original hinge bracket with a sharpie before you remove it. It made lining up the new one simple.
Installed on 2019 F150. Works until the last inch, then drops. Not a big deal and much better than without. But is that short drop at the end to be expected?
same here.
I'm thinking about installing a damper on my truck, what is the tailgate wire for, is it to disconnect the camera so you can remove the tailgate?
David Chen Yes
Does it work on 2021 ?
Can anyone confirm or deny that this will work on the earlier (specifically 2011) models? Or is there a substantial difference in the design? I sure would prefer this hidden style over the DeeZee style.
Dirk DeJong nothing behind the taillight to mount to on 2014 and prior
You should really show in the video how difficult it is to remove the torx bolts.
Just want to be sure,,,,does this install on 2019 F150? Its written but not mentioned on the video.
The statistical probability that theres a fundamental difference is astronomically low. Best thing you could do is pull the rear tail light and make sure the mounting location is in the same place compared to this video.
Just did this tonight. It takes more force to close the tailgate now than before. Also, i notice the right side of the gate is slightly lower than it was before. Any ideas?
you can readjust the hinge
Just did the install on my 2018 STX but tailgate still slams down... More than in the vid. Its only slightly better than without the damper kit. Anyone else experiencing this?
Noise21O sounds like you got a bad one. Any way the shock can go on backwards?
How can I convert the door to operate on electricity? I have a Ford Ranger with a light door, but I think it is a luxury to make the door operate on electricity and put a hole in the roof of the car.
It is unfortunate that I paid nearly 300,000 Saudi riyals and did not find everything I wanted in a Ford Ranger Raptor.
Is it compatible to 2017 Ford ranger Wildtrak?
No its not
Will this fit in the STX?
Eric Shields yep
Is this a genuine Ford part you're selling?
Will this fit the 2020?
Yes, but read through the helpful tips before attempting to install. Especially regarding removal of the TP-50 bolts... mine were initially impossible on my 2020.
Does this work on a 04 to 08?
No, it won't. Sorry.
Do you have to disconnect the tailgate harness?
Yup!
You can let it hang on the wires, as it's not heavy.
WTF!
If you have someone that can hold the tailgate its possible but I wouldn’t recommend it
I put a towel on the passenger side of the bumper, unhooked the passenger side cable and disengaged it from the passenger side hinge. I rested the passenger side of the gate on my towel on my bumper and my wife held it there while I swapped out the hinge (driver's side stayed engaged in the hinge and harness stayed connected). It takes only about three minutes to swap out the hinge so this was easy.
Anybody have a helluva time getting the star bolts out????
Lee Johnson hell yeah couldnt even get mine off at all!!how for you get them off?
APE89 I just did mine, and after removing the taillight use penetrating oil. There is factory thread lock to soak first along with thread that has paint on tip. Then proceed with turning the bolts back and forth one at a time, but always have one tight before removing both. It’s best to bend the tabs on the inner nut pate and remove it, then chase the threads with with the bolts prior to re installing. Using a small dab of water proof grease on the bolts is a great idea to install, because it makes lining up the flange and keeping it centered with the original paint border much easier! Once tight by hand, torque to 41 ft lbs. Also, prior to installing the plunger, make sure it’s clocked correctly. I had noticed mine was wrong the second I hat opened up the box! That is done by rolling the dust boot off of the body , clock it, then use a dab of water on the body with a tad of soap “very little” then slide the boot on and off a few times until the boot secured again. I thought it was going to be a 10 minute job, but ended up taking 30 minutes. Works great, and like the clean look versus the other brands!
Yes!! Those bolts had major lock-tite on it. Soaked them with penetrating oil, and that helped.
Mine did not fit. No way
The holes did not match up.
Not even close.