You are the first person I have seen address the problem of j channels allowing water behind the siding. No one else seems to understand (or they simply ignore) the problem. That is a great idea for dealing with the issue, thanks very much for sharing your idea.
Thanks! If I’m honest it’s something I learned from others. And if the housewrap is installed properly it is just an “extra precaution”… (however under decks seems to be a problem area and kicking the water back out there is definitely a good idea).
But the water from above comes down, enters the j channel and magically comes to the outside? BS capillary action will draw it everywhere. Up down left right. The ONLY solution is to put a cap flashing on the top. Which NOONE does. Except me. I've never seen anyone take the time to do cap flashing above doors windows etc.
I’m wondering how you finish the top? Do you leave the cut bottom edge of the siding that is above the window exposed or do you add another piece of j channel? And there is z flashing above the block, so the water is being diverted out. Also if someone uses the method I mentioned with the extra precaution at the bottom the water will exit the weep-holes that are on the bottom of the siding.
Nice video man! I own my own siding and gutter business and that’s some top notch work, I liked the bit where you showed what trim coil can do to help with potential rot!
Very nice, detailed video (with everything visible). I am about to do some finishing trim work on a shed I rebuilt last summer and this will help with those last few, but still important, details!
@@sidingschool Started using your method and it works really well. The only thing I do different is I put my Tyvek or house wrap over the top J-trim, where you have it over the drip cap only.
Plygem, Mastic, and Georgia Pacific all offer exhaust vents that have the J-channel already integrated into the vent. And I don’t think the first two brands are much more expensive than what I see in this video - but the labor saved and the much nicer finished look make it worth using them.
You’re right on with that. Usually the ones I put in are MidAmerica brand I think. The builder installed these ones from a local lumber yard, so I didn’t have much say in it.
Had new windows installed. What a mess with j channels. Thanks for the info. We are putting up barn siding and I can't find anything on metal j channels but I'm assuming they are the same.
You could follow this process pretty close to the same I would think. I might just take the nail fin completely off on metal J and only have a little rain tab. I think a lot of people run the trough a little long on the top j-channel to get the water away from the wall somehow…. It may be worth looking up metal j-channel installation techniques. Good luck!
Well done. Only thing I would.do different is instead of cutting the 45 on the overlap piece 1st. Cut it square 1st the leave a 16th or 8th of the square end on each end of your miter and it leaves u room for error and comes out more consistent and doesn't have the sharp tip on the end of the 45 or a hole on the inside.
That’s a decent look too and like you said it leaves a little more margin for error. I didn’t like the looks of it at first, but don’t mind it now. The more important thing to me is that there is consistency throughout the job. 👍🏼😊
I've never seen staples being used on J's, I'm tempted to try it as I'm getting ready to side my walls on my new deck. I'd rather do this than hit it with a hammer as the weather is getting colder here in the St. Louis Area.
Yeah, it can be a bummer when you smack the J and crack it then have to take off siding to fix it. I’d check your manufacturer specs, but stapling J has worked well for me for the last 19 years. Good luck on your project!
This is exactly how I cut my J Chanel a guy I worked with 5 +years ago showed me this and Ive tried to show others that just square cut and but maybe fold over the middle but they never want to listen they no what there doing .I usualy measure and cut all four sides then install I'll Even put it all together and slide it on
Only in new construction do you see staples in vinyl siding...theres no wind shear warranty with most manufacturers when you use staples. In Texas, we use truss screws on all of our siding installations.
That’s right, when I remodel I typically hand nail. As far as I know the manufacturer here - ‘Certainteed’ carries the same warranty stapled, nailed or screwed and they even mention specific stapling requirements in their literature. Where I live there’s not much risk of high winds and yes, fastening requirements definitely change based on your location! If you were building by the sea coast they’d require stainless steel fasteners… Everything in construction is relative, where you live the prices to install will carry the extra labor to screw it in, around here you’d probably be out of business quick. Keep up the good work!! 👍🏼
Thanks! The guy who did my siding just butted them together and it looks fucking stupid AF i have to tear it all off and do it again not just because of that but many other reasons. This helps. Thank you!
I have a leaking window on the inside of my house when it rains....maybe because whoever did the siding on my house ....maybe did not use J channels around the entire window before they sided... just my guess....After watching your video ....thanks. I guess I’ll have to get someone to take the siding off and have a look at what’s around that window and maybe every window in my house..
That it probably due to improper installation of flashing and housewrap above the window (if they installed flashing at all). I posted a video called how to bend and install Z flashing which I recommend you watch - it may give you a better idea of what could be happening. And unfortunately when one thing is done incorrectly you can almost count on all things to be the same. 😏 Good luck!
I’d say in general a lot of tradesmen could do better. They need to read installation instructions and not rely solely on what they were taught by someone who never read them.
J-Channel is sometimes a little different as it is often locked into place on either end (thus prohibiting movement) this happens regardless of the nailing methods used. There is a method to create a slip joint in J Channel that I use sometimes when needed. When I staple the siding with a Paslode 1/2” crown 16 gauge staple, the staple is held proud of the nail hem so it can move freely.
Putting staples through the vinyl siding will not allow it to move?? It needs to move freely, or it will buckle like most subdivision jobs LOL House wrap installed properly?? Maybe for a subdivision but those overlays need to be tapped?? 🙂
You’re correct! Vinyl siding should be fastened in a way that it can expand and contract freely. Now really short pieces of j-channel I tend to not be too careful about nailing a little tighter or clipping the edge of the nail holes with a staple. When you j around a block like I did here all the ends are locked in place and there’s really no room for expansion…. When it comes to vinyl siding, I use a staple gun with a special tip that leaves the staple proud of the nail fin and allows the siding to expand and contract as it should. I have installed vinyl siding for about 16 years and have had maybe 4 callbacks. It may be better to tape the housewrap. All the seams are facing down and there’s plenty of overlap in the vertical overlaps. So there’s very a minimal chance of water intrusion. To my understanding taping the seams in the housewrap is mostly for air sealing and not many builders or homeowners want to pay for the extra tape.
@@sidingschool I see well here in Canada we have extreme hot and cold weather it is crucial it can move freely!! A little of that house wrap tape around the J mold can help also!! that vinyl can move a lot more than people realize!! I still don't think the House wrap is done right LOL :🙂
The temps in Southern NH go from -25 degrees Fahrenheit to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. My j-channel (and siding) look nice in all weather conditions AND after years of expansion and contraction. On a side note: my cousin and I did a test on a piece of vinyl, we took it from outside -10 degrees and put it inside with the heater going… it grew from exactly 40” to 40” 1/4”! The aluminum flashing that is over the PVC block is installed underneath the housewrap and sheds water properly… in my opinion there’s no point in taping the j-channel to the housewrap (it would be extra work for no benefit, and there’s no literature that I’m aware of that recommends doing that). And finally some state or town codes may require tape on all seams in housewrap, the town I was siding in in Southern NH does not require it and the homeowner didn’t want to pay for the extra tape or labor. There’s many ways to do things. Some ways are flatly wrong and a lot of ways come down to preference. Just because someone does something differently than you doesn’t mean it’s wrong. This house will stand for many years and will be protected from the elements with the methods I used.
@@sidingschool There is a reason for the tape LOL to seal it period or they would not even make it?? I'm not saying your job is no good looks like you do it good I am referencing many subdivision jobs that I see buckling Just saying do not put the staples through the vinyl it needs to move 🙂
I’m happy you’re not saying my job is no good. I take a lot of pride in what I do. And people in my area prefer to have me do their siding work because of my quality. The literature for this specific housewrap doesn’t mention taping the seams. Tape is useful in a lot of situations (taping over flashing, windows, nicks in the housewrap, etc.) and I always have some on hand. We’ve both said our part about the tape, I’ve said it is ideal to tape, but not everyone wants to pay for it. I’m not sure if you are implying that my vinyl will bubble or if you are simply talking about what you’ve seen. But as I’ve said multiple times now, my vinyl CAN move… I don’t put staples through the vinyl and the tip of my gun is adjusted to set the staples proud of the nail fin. I have no bubbling vinyl on any of my jobs. I’ve been doing this for a very long time and I am well aware of the tolerances of vinyl siding.
The J-Channel I typically staple a little tighter, but in a manner that it can still move, it just holds it closer to the edges and doesn’t curl away. For the siding I switch to a bigger staple and fasten it more loose so it can move easily. J-Channel is a little more rigid and I haven’t had a problem with it bubbling in between fasteners, undersill on the other hand will bubble in between fasteners if it can’t expand and contract… I’ve been at this a long time and have learned the limits of the materials. The recommendation is to let everything move freely, but seeing that J-Channel is often fixed between two points….
Yes sir, I have many years of vinyl siding experience! Although I’ve done a few other things here and there. A little framing, roofing, finish carpentry.
But the water from above comes down, enters the j channel and magically comes to the outside? BS capillary action will draw it everywhere. Up down left right. The ONLY solution is to put a cap flashing on the top. Which NOONE does. Except me. I've never seen anyone take the time to do cap flashing above doors windows etc
I have a cap flashing on top of the PVC. This is a standard install. Water does go everywhere behind the siding unless it is redirected out, that is why we use housewrap.
Well I guess he’s a ghost, I’ve been installing J channel like this everyday for 15 years without any problems. As much as I’d like to hear his reasons, I’m not holding my breath.
@@sidingschool First, staples void the manufacturers warranty, it also enables you to simply fall against the siding in the winter and have the final break free. I can walk up to a building you install, grab the J-channel, and just snatch it off the wall, and most times some siding will come off with it as well. I spent a little over 2 years as a service tech for the nations largest vinyl siding company repairing poorly installed jobs because they were having far too many warranty claims. At that time I had already worked them as a sub-contractor for around 10 years( I worked there almost 20 years). Next, if you cut the nailer off of the bottom of the side pieces, you will create a "damming" effect for water that makes it's way into the J. The nailer should be left intact just as you did the bottom, and the piece that goes across the top should as well. Also, leaving the nailer intact causes the J to bulge due to excessive material width being slid into it. Technically, the nailer from the bottom of the side pieces should be left long enough so when you bring the siding up to it, you can lap it over the nailer for the water to travel over it and into the weep holes of the covering piece of siding(no one ever does this though). Oddly enough, you explain the water traveling down the siding, into the J. You then run your hands along this path explaining the travel path, but the water will not travel down the inside of the side pieces because you created a hole by cutting the nailer off preventing the waters need for a shed to travel. On the stapling the siding issue, if you think it is correct, explain why the piece you folding around the right side from the top split where you nailed it. the answer is because you are not supposed to use staples, and you are always supposed to use the provided nail slots. I don't even have to look at how you to install soffit to know you also staple that, which on the hottest day of the year will most likely crack the vinyl at least 50% of the time. In my 30+ years of siding installation, I have never, yes never had a failure in my installation. I live in and around my installed homes every day, and the 3 pieces that I have gone and repaired were due on jobs that I had employees, and they were all the top rip that was not properly installed. I will gladly accept any challenge to anything I said here. The main house on my property where I live was sided in the late summer of 2001. It contains almost every style of trim product available, the top of the line siding that came in 16' and 25' lengths. I installed every stitch of that house myself, it took 31 days. In vinyl siding there is a ceiling. At some point there just is nothing left you can learn and you can say you are the best in the business, there are many equal, but none better. I took great pride in teaching many men and women how to properly hang vinyl, and quite a few are still doing it, where I have retired. I considered doing a channel like this, but I have a busy enough time already with life. I will say, you are the very first and only person to ever respond to my comments on these particular channel topics and I applaud that. I would be happy to pass on what I know if you care to hear it. I was an installer about 12 years when a guy i hired who never hung siding gave me the best idea for J-channel, it was a slight tweak, but turned out to be one I did until my last job. I am not a ghost, I saw your reply just now and wrote this book in response. Yes, I am this long winded in person too.
Obviously this guy knows nothing about expansion and contraction staples are not recommended with any siding material unless you want to fix it every year
I’ve sided houses for 16 years and none of them bubble or require repairs. Staples are approved by the manufacturer and the VSI (Vinyl Siding Institute). Here’s a link to Certainteed’s installation instructions - see pages 35-36: certainteed.widen.net/content/2yoyd9b0zb/pdf/siding-installation-guide-04-03-1099-US-EN-230602-combined.pdf?u=nwk4fd Here’s a link to the VSI installation instructions - see pages 12-14: www.vinylsiding.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/2020-VSI-Installation-Manual.pdf The j channel here I stapled a little tighter to hold it a little closer (on a 16” piece there isn’t much for expansion and contraction). The staples are left proud of the nail fin usually to allow the siding to move freely. Thanks for your input!
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I used this method on the last project I'll ever do for the rest of my life I'm very happy with the results......!
Master at his craft, thanks for sharing.
No problem!
You are the first person I have seen address the problem of j channels allowing water behind the siding. No one else seems to understand (or they simply ignore) the problem. That is a great idea for dealing with the issue, thanks very much for sharing your idea.
Thanks! If I’m honest it’s something I learned from others. And if the housewrap is installed properly it is just an “extra precaution”… (however under decks seems to be a problem area and kicking the water back out there is definitely a good idea).
But the water from above comes down, enters the j channel and magically comes to the outside? BS capillary action will draw it everywhere. Up down left right. The ONLY solution is to put a cap flashing on the top. Which NOONE does. Except me. I've never seen anyone take the time to do cap flashing above doors windows etc.
I’m wondering how you finish the top? Do you leave the cut bottom edge of the siding that is above the window exposed or do you add another piece of j channel? And there is z flashing above the block, so the water is being diverted out. Also if someone uses the method I mentioned with the extra precaution at the bottom the water will exit the weep-holes that are on the bottom of the siding.
Nice video man! I own my own siding and gutter business and that’s some top notch work, I liked the bit where you showed what trim coil can do to help with potential rot!
Thanks! And yeah, it doesn’t have to be bent trim coil either… that’s just a scrap I had from something else.
Thanks for the video. My 45's on my J's are always horrible. It has taken me a couple tries but I think I got it. Thanks again!!!
No problem! And yeah, it takes a bit of practice! Thanks for your comment!
Do-it-yourselfer here trying to fix one tiny spot on the back of my house. Thanks for the informative video…I’d never have figured that out on my own!
Glad to be here!
Awesome work installing. Much appreciate the tutorial. Probably best I've seen so far and I've seen allot of videos.
Thanks! I’m gathering a lot of footage now and will be uploading more tutorials soon.
That's much appreciated, thank you sir.
Very nice, detailed video (with everything visible). I am about to do some finishing trim work on a shed I rebuilt last summer and this will help with those last few, but still important, details!
Good luck on your project!
You made it look so easy, nice work! i am sure its going to take me several tries before i get this right
Thanks! And good luck! It takes a little practice. 👍🏼
Great tip about the flashings thanks for sharing.
I’m glad to help! 👍🏼
Nice job, can’t wait to try that method when I side the house and garage this summer.
Thanks man! 😊
@@sidingschool Started using your method and it works really well. The only thing I do different is I put my Tyvek or house wrap over the top J-trim, where you have it over the drip cap only.
Thanks first time doing j channel and it came out great!
Awesome!
You, sir, are a wizard!
Thanks!
This is a pretty cool method
I’ve been using it for many years 👍🏼
Plygem, Mastic, and Georgia Pacific all offer exhaust vents that have the J-channel already integrated into the vent. And I don’t think the first two brands are much more expensive than what I see in this video - but the labor saved and the much nicer finished look make it worth using them.
You’re right on with that. Usually the ones I put in are MidAmerica brand I think. The builder installed these ones from a local lumber yard, so I didn’t have much say in it.
Damn i needed this video yesterday. Might go back and fix it
That’s too bad. I like to say “change it” - often times it isn’t done incorrectly, but there may be a better way to do it. 😊
Thank you , very nice advice . It help me with my home prodject
No problem! More to come.
Great technique! I'm stealing and sharing :)
Right on man!
Had new windows installed. What a mess with j channels.
Thanks for the info.
We are putting up barn siding and I can't find anything on metal j channels but I'm assuming they are the same.
You could follow this process pretty close to the same I would think. I might just take the nail fin completely off on metal J and only have a little rain tab. I think a lot of people run the trough a little long on the top j-channel to get the water away from the wall somehow…. It may be worth looking up metal j-channel installation techniques. Good luck!
Excellent job
Thanks!
Well done. Only thing I would.do different is instead of cutting the 45 on the overlap piece 1st. Cut it square 1st the leave a 16th or 8th of the square end on each end of your miter and it leaves u room for error and comes out more consistent and doesn't have the sharp tip on the end of the 45 or a hole on the inside.
That’s a decent look too and like you said it leaves a little more margin for error. I didn’t like the looks of it at first, but don’t mind it now. The more important thing to me is that there is consistency throughout the job. 👍🏼😊
@@sidingschool lthats the whole thing with siding. Consistency throughout the job
Solid work
Thanks! 😊
Brilliant!
😊
I've never seen staples being used on J's, I'm tempted to try it as I'm getting ready to side my walls on my new deck. I'd rather do this than hit it with a hammer as the weather is getting colder here in the St. Louis Area.
Yeah, it can be a bummer when you smack the J and crack it then have to take off siding to fix it. I’d check your manufacturer specs, but stapling J has worked well for me for the last 19 years. Good luck on your project!
Nice work.
Thanks!
This is exactly how I cut my J Chanel a guy I worked with 5 +years ago showed me this and Ive tried to show others that just square cut and but maybe fold over the middle but they never want to listen they no what there doing .I usualy measure and cut all four sides then install I'll Even put it all together and slide it on
There’s many different methods, I like the way this one looks the best. 😊
Only in new construction do you see staples in vinyl siding...theres no wind shear warranty with most manufacturers when you use staples. In Texas, we use truss screws on all of our siding installations.
That’s right, when I remodel I typically hand nail. As far as I know the manufacturer here - ‘Certainteed’ carries the same warranty stapled, nailed or screwed and they even mention specific stapling requirements in their literature. Where I live there’s not much risk of high winds and yes, fastening requirements definitely change based on your location! If you were building by the sea coast they’d require stainless steel fasteners… Everything in construction is relative, where you live the prices to install will carry the extra labor to screw it in, around here you’d probably be out of business quick. Keep up the good work!! 👍🏼
@@sidingschool I get it, I'm from Detroit. I landed in Texas because...well, I'm from Detroit...lol.
It’s cold here in the North East. 🥶
Oh … awesome 👍
😎
Good job!
Thanks!
Thanks! The guy who did my siding just butted them together and it looks fucking stupid AF i have to tear it all off and do it again not just because of that but many other reasons.
This helps. Thank you!
That’s a joke, I’m glad to help though!
What model of camera you are using ? Job looks good
I recorded that with a GoPro Hero 10. And thanks! 😊
I have a leaking window on the inside of my house when it rains....maybe because whoever did the siding on my house ....maybe did not use J channels around the entire window before they sided... just my guess....After watching your video ....thanks. I guess I’ll have to get someone to take the siding off and have a look at what’s around that window and maybe every window in my house..
That it probably due to improper installation of flashing and housewrap above the window (if they installed flashing at all). I posted a video called how to bend and install Z flashing which I recommend you watch - it may give you a better idea of what could be happening. And unfortunately when one thing is done incorrectly you can almost count on all things to be the same. 😏 Good luck!
@@sidingschool I’m beginning to realize that whoever built this house wasn’t exactly professional
I’d say in general a lot of tradesmen could do better. They need to read installation instructions and not rely solely on what they were taught by someone who never read them.
Legit
Thanks!
The siding is supposed to be able to expand and contract how can it with staples ? It’s should be floating
J-Channel is sometimes a little different as it is often locked into place on either end (thus prohibiting movement) this happens regardless of the nailing methods used. There is a method to create a slip joint in J Channel that I use sometimes when needed. When I staple the siding with a Paslode 1/2” crown 16 gauge staple, the staple is held proud of the nail hem so it can move freely.
Good point on the staples being proud allowing some movement. One end really needs to be in the slot also,
Not in the body of the J.
Great video..😊
Putting staples through the vinyl siding will not allow it to move?? It needs to move freely, or it will buckle like most subdivision jobs LOL House wrap installed properly?? Maybe for a subdivision but those overlays need to be tapped?? 🙂
You’re correct! Vinyl siding should be fastened in a way that it can expand and contract freely. Now really short pieces of j-channel I tend to not be too careful about nailing a little tighter or clipping the edge of the nail holes with a staple. When you j around a block like I did here all the ends are locked in place and there’s really no room for expansion…. When it comes to vinyl siding, I use a staple gun with a special tip that leaves the staple proud of the nail fin and allows the siding to expand and contract as it should. I have installed vinyl siding for about 16 years and have had maybe 4 callbacks.
It may be better to tape the housewrap. All the seams are facing down and there’s plenty of overlap in the vertical overlaps. So there’s very a minimal chance of water intrusion. To my understanding taping the seams in the housewrap is mostly for air sealing and not many builders or homeowners want to pay for the extra tape.
@@sidingschool I see well here in Canada we have extreme hot and cold weather it is crucial it can move freely!! A little of that house wrap tape around the J mold can help also!! that vinyl can move a lot more than people realize!! I still don't think the House wrap is done right LOL :🙂
The temps in Southern NH go from -25 degrees Fahrenheit to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. My j-channel (and siding) look nice in all weather conditions AND after years of expansion and contraction. On a side note: my cousin and I did a test on a piece of vinyl, we took it from outside -10 degrees and put it inside with the heater going… it grew from exactly 40” to 40” 1/4”! The aluminum flashing that is over the PVC block is installed underneath the housewrap and sheds water properly… in my opinion there’s no point in taping the j-channel to the housewrap (it would be extra work for no benefit, and there’s no literature that I’m aware of that recommends doing that). And finally some state or town codes may require tape on all seams in housewrap, the town I was siding in in Southern NH does not require it and the homeowner didn’t want to pay for the extra tape or labor.
There’s many ways to do things. Some ways are flatly wrong and a lot of ways come down to preference. Just because someone does something differently than you doesn’t mean it’s wrong. This house will stand for many years and will be protected from the elements with the methods I used.
@@sidingschool There is a reason for the tape LOL to seal it period or they would not even make it?? I'm not saying your job is no good looks like you do it good I am referencing many subdivision jobs that I see buckling Just saying do not put the staples through the vinyl it needs to move 🙂
I’m happy you’re not saying my job is no good. I take a lot of pride in what I do. And people in my area prefer to have me do their siding work because of my quality. The literature for this specific housewrap doesn’t mention taping the seams. Tape is useful in a lot of situations (taping over flashing, windows, nicks in the housewrap, etc.) and I always have some on hand. We’ve both said our part about the tape, I’ve said it is ideal to tape, but not everyone wants to pay for it.
I’m not sure if you are implying that my vinyl will bubble or if you are simply talking about what you’ve seen. But as I’ve said multiple times now, my vinyl CAN move… I don’t put staples through the vinyl and the tip of my gun is adjusted to set the staples proud of the nail fin. I have no bubbling vinyl on any of my jobs. I’ve been doing this for a very long time and I am well aware of the tolerances of vinyl siding.
Why are you using staples ??? Doesn't look like the siding will be able to move with temperature change
The J-Channel I typically staple a little tighter, but in a manner that it can still move, it just holds it closer to the edges and doesn’t curl away. For the siding I switch to a bigger staple and fasten it more loose so it can move easily. J-Channel is a little more rigid and I haven’t had a problem with it bubbling in between fasteners, undersill on the other hand will bubble in between fasteners if it can’t expand and contract… I’ve been at this a long time and have learned the limits of the materials.
The recommendation is to let everything move freely, but seeing that J-Channel is often fixed between two points….
I think the pieces around the dryer vent are too short to make any significant expansion.
You’ve got a good point there too
That's how I've always done it, just common sense
Awesome! 😎
What’s the best way to install J at gable end with various angles? Mine comes down at a 80 deg then over to a 20 deg to corner post.
Hi User-so, Video coming tomorrow evening that should answer this question - stay tuned.
Looking forward to it, thanks!
Okay, so I failed miserably at making a quality video. Trying again today.
Got one posted, I hope it helps!
Sad that this didn’t go to top of Google when I inquired about jchannel. I did it 53% correct.
Ah, bummer. And I wouldn’t fret, there’s a lot of ways to do things, this is just my preferred method!
Nice job you just want to know that a guy that’s covering ur house gives a shit. Thanks for the demonstration
No problem! More content coming…
Water gets behind the siding and runs down
That is true. Did you watch the part where I show how to deflect the water back to the face of the siding?
You work with everyday I'm guessing. Work multiple trades daily an see
Yes sir, I have many years of vinyl siding experience! Although I’ve done a few other things here and there. A little framing, roofing, finish carpentry.
Fuking awesome
Thanks!
But the water from above comes down, enters the j channel and magically comes to the outside? BS capillary action will draw it everywhere. Up down left right. The ONLY solution is to put a cap flashing on the top. Which NOONE does. Except me. I've never seen anyone take the time to do cap flashing above doors windows etc
I have a cap flashing on top of the PVC. This is a standard install. Water does go everywhere behind the siding unless it is redirected out, that is why we use housewrap.
This is 100% NOT how you install J-Channel. Anyone watching this, do not listen to this person, he is absolutely wrong.
Please elaborate @pepperman9
@sidingschool Looks good to me, well done Sir
Thanks!
Well I guess he’s a ghost, I’ve been installing J channel like this everyday for 15 years without any problems. As much as I’d like to hear his reasons, I’m not holding my breath.
@@sidingschool First, staples void the manufacturers warranty, it also enables you to simply fall against the siding in the winter and have the final break free. I can walk up to a building you install, grab the J-channel, and just snatch it off the wall, and most times some siding will come off with it as well. I spent a little over 2 years as a service tech for the nations largest vinyl siding company repairing poorly installed jobs because they were having far too many warranty claims. At that time I had already worked them as a sub-contractor for around 10 years( I worked there almost 20 years).
Next, if you cut the nailer off of the bottom of the side pieces, you will create a "damming" effect for water that makes it's way into the J. The nailer should be left intact just as you did the bottom, and the piece that goes across the top should as well. Also, leaving the nailer intact causes the J to bulge due to excessive material width being slid into it. Technically, the nailer from the bottom of the side pieces should be left long enough so when you bring the siding up to it, you can lap it over the nailer for the water to travel over it and into the weep holes of the covering piece of siding(no one ever does this though).
Oddly enough, you explain the water traveling down the siding, into the J. You then run your hands along this path explaining the travel path, but the water will not travel down the inside of the side pieces because you created a hole by cutting the nailer off preventing the waters need for a shed to travel. On the stapling the siding issue, if you think it is correct, explain why the piece you folding around the right side from the top split where you nailed it. the answer is because you are not supposed to use staples, and you are always supposed to use the provided nail slots. I don't even have to look at how you to install soffit to know you also staple that, which on the hottest day of the year will most likely crack the vinyl at least 50% of the time. In my 30+ years of siding installation, I have never, yes never had a failure in my installation. I live in and around my installed homes every day, and the 3 pieces that I have gone and repaired were due on jobs that I had employees, and they were all the top rip that was not properly installed. I will gladly accept any challenge to anything I said here. The main house on my property where I live was sided in the late summer of 2001. It contains almost every style of trim product available, the top of the line siding that came in 16' and 25' lengths. I installed every stitch of that house myself, it took 31 days.
In vinyl siding there is a ceiling. At some point there just is nothing left you can learn and you can say you are the best in the business, there are many equal, but none better. I took great pride in teaching many men and women how to properly hang vinyl, and quite a few are still doing it, where I have retired. I considered doing a channel like this, but I have a busy enough time already with life. I will say, you are the very first and only person to ever respond to my comments on these particular channel topics and I applaud that. I would be happy to pass on what I know if you care to hear it. I was an installer about 12 years when a guy i hired who never hung siding gave me the best idea for J-channel, it was a slight tweak, but turned out to be one I did until my last job. I am not a ghost, I saw your reply just now and wrote this book in response. Yes, I am this long winded in person too.
Not good visual.
Obviously this guy knows nothing about expansion and contraction staples are not recommended with any siding material unless you want to fix it every year
I’ve sided houses for 16 years and none of them bubble or require repairs. Staples are approved by the manufacturer and the VSI (Vinyl Siding Institute).
Here’s a link to Certainteed’s installation instructions - see pages 35-36: certainteed.widen.net/content/2yoyd9b0zb/pdf/siding-installation-guide-04-03-1099-US-EN-230602-combined.pdf?u=nwk4fd
Here’s a link to the VSI installation instructions - see pages 12-14: www.vinylsiding.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/2020-VSI-Installation-Manual.pdf
The j channel here I stapled a little tighter to hold it a little closer (on a 16” piece there isn’t much for expansion and contraction). The staples are left proud of the nail fin usually to allow the siding to move freely. Thanks for your input!
Yuck