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Thanks!

I don’t have much experience with aluminum siding. It is still being manufactured though. I’ve seen people unclip it similarly to the way vinyl can be unclipped. It may be possible to treat it like vinyl or it may be a case where it has to be taken down all the way from the top.

Water can do pretty amazing things!

If I put the out of square side up it would mostly create uneven gaps between the soffit and the corner post.

In this video I do use that method on all corners: How to install J-Channel around an opening th-cam.com/video/vsPlNPjci8A/w-d-xo.html

Hey thanks for your compliments! And yeah, it can be kind of intimidating when you open the box and realize the assembly that is needed.

No problem! Trying to keep it somewhat real. 🤙🏼

Oh, no, I guess I wasn’t clear about that. I was saying identifying siding is like identifying a car. 🚗 Brand, style, line, color, etc..

It would be a good idea to tape the nail holes… especially if there’s an area for water to enter behind the siding from above! 👍🏼

Malco siding removal zip tool amzn.to/3COkLrw Available on Amazon through that affiliate link. Also most lumber stores will have something similar… I’ve tried a couple brands and like the Malco one the best so far.

You’re welcome! 😊

Depends on your point of view . Under the eaves there’s not much of a chance of water immersion, and even so vinyl isn’t water tight. One benefit of lapping it upwards is that the joint is harder to see from the ground. 😊 Oh and good luck! Hope it turns out great! 👍🏼

Hi FixItWithMe, if you build your fascias out of wood or PVC then you could probably get by without a metal brake. But if your fascias are wrapped with aluminum there’s no way out of borrowing, renting or buying a brake.

Hey welcome aboard! 🛳️

You’re not the only one they bother. 🙃 😊

You’re welcome! I’m happy you are finding it useful 😊. I’m not sure if there’s online retailers that sell to the public, but there may be… if a big distributor wouldn’t sell to you I’d probably wait in the parking lot and flag down the first contractor lol. It would be helpful to cross check prices at Home Depot that way you know you’re not way overpaying.

There’s counter flashing underneath the j-channel to wick out water… the j channel isn’t meant to be watertight. Some people even drill holes in the bottom for water to escape. I don’t think that that is necessary though.

Awesome! 😎

Absolutely! 👍🏼

Thanks! 😊

Just like a blister… I like to show up when the work’s done. 😉

Thanks! Metal siding definitely seems like it could be challenging… I’m guessing the main thing is that it’s not very flexible so you probably need to make absolutely sure that your clearances are correct otherwise you’ll never get them to clip in.

You are welcome!

Hi, Pretty much everything fades in the sun, so getting siding that matches could be a challenge and you probably won’t get a perfect match color and sheen wise… a double 4” is a common panel and you should be able to lock almost any brand of siding into your existing siding panels. Here is a video I did on how to identify your vinyl siding: How to identify vinyl siding th-cam.com/video/AEBbEtDbSpg/w-d-xo.html

It will collect water until it runs out of the ends or spills over the face of the j-channel… the nail slots on the back are higher up than the face of the j-channel.

These are the materials I was provided with. Usually I use a dryer vent with a removable j-channel.

Those are ALL very helpful tips! Funny enough I broke the glass on my watch the first day I worked with it on. The main thing I should’ve done with this install is utilize the top “rain deflector” piece and hold the door jambs down closer to the threshold (#9 on your list)… I don’t like how the top trim wouldn’t be screwed in the middle though 🤷🏼‍♂️. I like the jamb extensions that can be added and slid down to contact the threshold better, they are available on Amazon. Thanks for your constructive input!

I've installed about 3 of them including Ideal Pet Doors into them. However, I'm not an expert but I do use quite a bit of common sense to make the job and health (including an expensive Apple Watch a bit easier. <smile>...Best to you for providing it for many. (Someday, I'll get a Go Pro and do some videos myself.

Thanks for your comment! 😎

The bottom of the starter is 1” down from top of foundation. I hung the corner down 1” from top of foundation and then measured up from the bottom of the corner 2 1/2” or whatever it was to the top of where the starter was going to be… technically the bottom of the starter is probably 7/8” down from the top of the foundation because I always make sure the siding doesn’t hang below the corner.

That’s awesome! Glad to hear it! 😎

You are exactly right on man! I noticed they let the siding sag in the clips so unzipped a few pieces and put em up tight to make the clip miss on that course… it’s a common problem so I figured I’d recreate it for the sake of demonstration. Thanks for your compliment!

Hey thanks and good luck!

I’ll get better at filmography. For now this is how I have to do it. I’m learning and growing as I go.

Glad to help! Good luck! 😊

Yep, I was doing siding last night and I think I wasted as much as I used😂

Hi, I have a video where I talk about all my tools here: th-cam.com/video/56usQKefShc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=htAjzsbUAh-iyogY The Paslode staple gun is the SCS200 and you would have to buy a vinyl siding nose (part number 219502) separately. It takes a 1/2 crown staple (it is recommended to fasten to studs and penetrate at least 1 1/4” into the substrate) There’s a couple alternatives now. Milwaukee is coming out with a battery powered roofing gun that has a quick change vinyl siding adapter. ‘The Siding Guy’ on instagram uses a dewalt battery roofing gun and sells an adapter that he makes himself.

@@sidingschool Thanks for the quick responce ! Really wasn't expecting any response.

@@Mygames627 No problem! I try my best to respond to everyone.

I would try to get the siding underneath the drip edge if at all possible. So it can shed water. If that means extending the roof, then that is the right thing to do. A ‘double undersill’ piece might be helpful with dutchlap siding. If you can’t get the siding under the drip edge, you could caulk the top, but there’s a chance that water will find a way in.

I found out you use starter strip as J channel sits outside the sidding . Create a gutter situation so the roof being stright across the wall the water would just sit their. Not easy to do with existing sidding . The zip tool is about useless as the sidding edge is only 3 inches from the roof. So I cheated the starter up a little and bent the sidding edge with my hands. Should have took the sidding off all the way to the peak. Much easier !

@@Mygames627 sounds like you figured it out!

I’ve definitely cut an inside corner vertically like that, it is a clean look… if the step is too big it might kick the corner out by bumping into the inside of the J-trough. If that happens you’ll probably want to switch to j-channel.

No problem! 😊

Sounds like you want to seal a hole in the old substrate or siding underneath… there’s lots of options you could use for that. I’d probably go with a piece of aluminum flashing metal. They sell it in rolls in the roofing section at Home Depot. Then you could tyvek tape it and caulk around it too if you want to be sure to keep them out.

Hey John, thanks! It’s always nice to hear from another trade professional! 😊

In a vertical siding installation, most of the expansion is downward. So instead of allowing equal space for expansion at both ends of a vertical panel, leave more space at the lower end: allow for 1/3 of the total expansion at the top of a panel and 2/3 of the total expansion at the bottom. For example, if the total expansion equals 3/4" (3/8" + 3/8"), allow 1/4" at the top and 1/2" at the bottom. If the total expansion equals 1/2" (1/4" + 1/4"), allow 3/16" at the top and 5/16" at the bottom. Spacing Gaps to Accessories 40° F or greater Vertical Siding 3/16" top 3/8" bottom Less than 40 degrees F 1/4" top 1/2" bottom Those are the specs directly from Certainteed. Now the siding can still be cold in the box even if in the sun. But it will warm up pretty quickly once out of the box… all that said, if it is 40 or above then the 3/16” gap at top and 3/8” gap at bottom will be sufficient. And to be honest, not many people are going to be that precise with their cuts. As long as it has enough room to expand you’ll be okay, but you don’t want to cut it so short that it’ll come out of the J-channel when it cools because that won’t look good. I don’t think laying them in the sun is necessary, you can just use the ambient temperature as your guide.

You’re welcome!

You’re very welcome! 😊

Hey no problem! I hope they do, I think there’s useful information here... 😊 🤙🏼

Hopefully you tested it on a small area… sorry for your troubles! There is a chance if you’re making the siding a darker color that it is expanding more than before and the sider didn’t leave adequate gaps to allow for that expansion. With that said, any paint that is rated for painting over vinyl siding should work, but there’s no guarantee that you won’t run into the same problem. I would be sure to test in a small area. Here’s a link to the Benjamin Moore page on painting vinyl siding: www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/contractors/job-solutions/professional-how-to-guides/

Hopefully you tested it on a small area… sorry for your troubles! There is a chance if you’re making the siding a darker color that it is expanding more than before and the sider didn’t leave adequate gaps to allow for that expansion. With that said, any paint that is rated for painting over vinyl siding should work, but there’s no guarantee that you won’t run into the same problem. I would be sure to test in a small area. Here’s a link to the Benjamin Moore page on painting vinyl siding: www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/contractors/job-solutions/professional-how-to-guides/

No problem! More to come… and good luck on your remodel! 👍🏼

Thanks, doing much better now and finally working full time again. More content to come!

No problem!