Good vid. I've got a 2001 RT10 with a decent amount of work done to it. Not sure how easy it will be to find these days, but I have an aluminum overflow tube that attaches to the top of the power steering reservoir cap. It redirects any overflow away from the headers and the tube prevents the cap from turning. I think it was from Roe , which means it may be extinct. (Wouldn't be hard to fab one up DIY style.)
Pining the harmonic balancer is another smart thing to do. Since the crankshaft doesn’t have a keyway they are known to come loose. Roe makes a pin kit but like you said they are unfortunately going out of business.
Thank you for this video. I daily my 1994 Gen 1 and just ordered the power steering pulley/bracket thanks to you! Already did my head gaskets last year. Really enjoy the channel. God bless
Just found this channel and subscribed. At first, I thought it was just going to be another "influencer" who doesn't own a Viper crapping on our cars. This video is really well done. Yes, PS Pulley goes on you. I've never seen a billet replacement for $60. Mine was $195. It's also a good time to replace the bracket and put on a new belt. The item that is often missed and the next thing you will eventually have to replace is your water pump hoses. So while the pulley is off is a great time to replace those too. Just smart preventive maintenance while you dealt with that $#@! dampener!! Lol. Again, great stuff. I'm going to check out your other videos. Oh...the club also used to sell a vent tube kit that would keep your PS cap on. Lots of us have them. Works great. 1997 Viper, 1964 Polara owner.
Great video. Thank you for posting. I have a 96 GTS. 6th Issue: Red magnesium paint/finish comes off. It's not going to harm the engine but an issue nonetheless.
6:48- You can also put an Accusump on, which provides up to 3 qts of oil flow if the pick up tube starts sucking air. Enough oil to get you thru Turn 2 at "Big" Willow! Also, under heavy braking, the oil in the Gen2 valve covers sloshes forward right into the low-mounted breather pipe, and then it gets re-ingested into the intake plenum, making big clouds of blue smoke out the exhaust. Answer is to plug the stock breather port, then drill and tap for a relocated fitting and install your own breather, up higher in a place where acceleration and decel forces won't fill the breather tube with oil. Looking at your engine, I see the breather is up on top, where it makes sense. Thats a Gen1 engine, I think you said. My Gen2 engine has the breather port located very low, on the front end of the valve cover. Probably just for "looks".
Did not know that about the gen 2 valve cover breather pipe. I’ve been contemplating the accusump system. Since I’ve removed 2 quarts of capacity and retained the fixed pickup tube, I feel like the accusump is almost a must. Especially since I’ll be tracking the car.
I'm gonna try to get back to tracking the GTS. Been quite a while and I miss it. Are you familiar with any track clubs? Wish you all the best! Keep it between the curbs! 👍
(Previous gen 2 gts owner) Common issue no one mentions. I lost a 15k mile Mopar replacement long block due to the bolts backing out that hold down the "yoke plate" that keep the hydraulic lifters from spinning. That little bolt absolutely destroyed that engine to an unbelievable extent. OTHER THINGS TO NOTE. viper oil systems do absolutely suck as you mentioned a bit. The crankshaft oil galleries are drilled in a poor fashion that causes oil starvation to the connecting rod bearings. Much like the BMW S85 V10, You will NEED to replace or at least check your rod bearings every 10k to 20k (or annually if you actually drive the car). My 15k mile engine that suffered a failure had a couple rod bearings already starting to show copper. Do a little research and you will quickly find that this is common nature to these rather poorly designed engines. They sound great but at quite a heavy price tag...
Are the galleries actually bad or is it the design that's bad? I came across a post on a forum from ages ago and the guy was apparently a Chrysler engineer, he said there are two types of crank drilling you can do, Chevy does one type, Chrysler does another. Unfortunately I can't remember the names. Apparently the Chrysler way is better 0-6000 rpm but the chev way is better >6000rpm, so either don't spin the V10 much over 6, or get the crank redrilled to the chev way if you're going to spin it higher.
With the power steering reservoir cap, I have a an elbow hose attached with a clamp that does 2 things. It prevents the cap from becoming loose, and any power steering fluid that may come out of the top of the cap vent is directed below and away from the header.
Oh ok, I didn't realize Viper engines had that many flaws. It's kind of a good thing on your behalf, that these engines have been around long enough for these problems to become known, before you built yours.... It'll sure be an awesome build when you're done though, she'll be a real show stopper.
I feel like the issues aren’t spoken about as much due to the fact that many vipers are garage queens and barely see any mileage. Certainly glad the issues have been identified already. Allows me to bullet proof this monster before thrashing on it.
What about the cam bore that used no bearings and the cam ran on the aluminum of the block I've seen a shop article where they take the block and machine it to except cam bearings wouldn't this be a major upgrade to cam and block longevity.
Here’s the deal with the cam bearings (or lack there of). The block surface will usually only experience damage when something else has gone wrong and introduced contaminants to the oil (failed main or rod bearing, etc). In this situation, the engine needs a rebuild. To retrofit the blocks for bearings you need to completely strip down the engine and bore out the block. This is essentially a rebuild. In short, it only makes sense to retrofit the block for cam bearings after it’s already suffered a major failure of some kind and needs to be rebuilt.
That PS pully is a lot more than $50-$60 in my experience (although still worth the $200 they actually cost). Also, I'd recommend an Acusump oil accumulator if tracking these cars...
I went and looked at a low milage (7000) 93. There's no record of the piston rings being changed. There's also no record that a recall was ever issued. I think it might be impossible to get that information now....
What if you put an o-ring at the top of the ps lid so when it's tightened there's a little bit of a torque being applied to it to keep it from loosening up. 😅
A friend of mine owns a 2004 Ram Pick Up with the Viper engine. He recently told me the engine dropped a valve and needs to be rebuilt. He states the shops near Vegas quoted a cost of close to $30,000. Is that accurate or is he giving me some BS?
That sounds ridiculous. There was a complete 04-06 crate engine for sale in the PHX area for around 12k in April ‘23. If the shop quoted 30k, they didn’t want to deal with the truck.
Dang Iv got a very early vin 93 model with 15k and I'm sure none of these things have been addressed yet. I don't regret buying it but its def become a money pit.
They are fantastic cars that offer a very cool driving experience. It’s getting difficult to find someone knowledgeable to work on these engines. If you’re up for it, they are relatively simple in design and can be wrenched on at home.
The gen 4 V10 has been regarded as one of the best V-type engines to ever be produced from Dodge. In stock form, there have been no significant problems identified.
Hey, Jeremy! Looking at an '03 Viper and just watched your video. The one I'm looking at has 86k miles. Are there any other questions or concerns that I need to be aware of? Thank you so much.
I felt the pain on the power steering pump problems. But It still makes me smile every time I start it up.The neighbours,not so much.
Good vid. I've got a 2001 RT10 with a decent amount of work done to it. Not sure how easy it will be to find these days, but I have an aluminum overflow tube that attaches to the top of the power steering reservoir cap. It redirects any overflow away from the headers and the tube prevents the cap from turning. I think it was from Roe , which means it may be extinct. (Wouldn't be hard to fab one up DIY style.)
Pining the harmonic balancer is another smart thing to do. Since the crankshaft doesn’t have a keyway they are known to come loose. Roe makes a pin kit but like you said they are unfortunately going out of business.
Thank you for this video. I daily my 1994 Gen 1 and just ordered the power steering pulley/bracket thanks to you! Already did my head gaskets last year. Really enjoy the channel. God bless
Glad I could help! Not a lot of info on the web for the viper stuff
@@sorta_stock you are so true!!! I’m a subscriber now! Thanks again. Looking forward to the builds and learning more.
I just got my PS pulley last week. Don’t forget the bracket as well. Not sure where you found one for so cheap I paid $210 for both from IPSCO
I bought a bunch of stuff from Roe Racing early last year. I’m just going to reinforce the bracket on the top right corner.
Just found this channel and subscribed. At first, I thought it was just going to be another "influencer" who doesn't own a Viper crapping on our cars. This video is really well done. Yes, PS Pulley goes on you. I've never seen a billet replacement for $60. Mine was $195. It's also a good time to replace the bracket and put on a new belt. The item that is often missed and the next thing you will eventually have to replace is your water pump hoses. So while the pulley is off is a great time to replace those too. Just smart preventive maintenance while you dealt with that $#@! dampener!! Lol. Again, great stuff. I'm going to check out your other videos. Oh...the club also used to sell a vent tube kit that would keep your PS cap on. Lots of us have them. Works great. 1997 Viper, 1964 Polara owner.
Great video. Thank you for posting. I have a 96 GTS. 6th Issue: Red magnesium paint/finish comes off. It's not going to harm the engine but an issue nonetheless.
Thanks for the heads up. I’ll look into the swinging pickup for my Gen 3.
6:48- You can also put an Accusump on, which provides up to 3 qts of oil flow if the pick up tube starts sucking air. Enough oil to get you thru Turn 2 at "Big" Willow!
Also, under heavy braking, the oil in the Gen2 valve covers sloshes forward right into the low-mounted breather pipe, and then it gets re-ingested into the intake plenum, making big clouds of blue smoke out the exhaust. Answer is to plug the stock breather port, then drill and tap for a relocated fitting and install your own breather, up higher in a place where acceleration and decel forces won't fill the breather tube with oil. Looking at your engine, I see the breather is up on top, where it makes sense. Thats a Gen1 engine, I think you said. My Gen2 engine has the breather port located very low, on the front end of the valve cover. Probably just for "looks".
Did not know that about the gen 2 valve cover breather pipe. I’ve been contemplating the accusump system. Since I’ve removed 2 quarts of capacity and retained the fixed pickup tube, I feel like the accusump is almost a must. Especially since I’ll be tracking the car.
I'm gonna try to get back to tracking the GTS. Been quite a while and I miss it. Are you familiar with any track clubs?
Wish you all the best!
Keep it between the curbs! 👍
(Previous gen 2 gts owner) Common issue no one mentions. I lost a 15k mile Mopar replacement long block due to the bolts backing out that hold down the "yoke plate" that keep the hydraulic lifters from spinning. That little bolt absolutely destroyed that engine to an unbelievable extent. OTHER THINGS TO NOTE. viper oil systems do absolutely suck as you mentioned a bit. The crankshaft oil galleries are drilled in a poor fashion that causes oil starvation to the connecting rod bearings. Much like the BMW S85 V10, You will NEED to replace or at least check your rod bearings every 10k to 20k (or annually if you actually drive the car). My 15k mile engine that suffered a failure had a couple rod bearings already starting to show copper. Do a little research and you will quickly find that this is common nature to these rather poorly designed engines. They sound great but at quite a heavy price tag...
Are the galleries actually bad or is it the design that's bad? I came across a post on a forum from ages ago and the guy was apparently a Chrysler engineer, he said there are two types of crank drilling you can do, Chevy does one type, Chrysler does another. Unfortunately I can't remember the names. Apparently the Chrysler way is better 0-6000 rpm but the chev way is better >6000rpm, so either don't spin the V10 much over 6, or get the crank redrilled to the chev way if you're going to spin it higher.
With the power steering reservoir cap, I have a an elbow hose attached with a clamp that does 2 things. It prevents the cap from becoming loose, and any power steering fluid that may come out of the top of the cap vent is directed below and away from the header.
I have a 98 GTS and I’m glad I found your channel just subscribed 👍🏻
Thanks man! I love the GTSs. I’ll be digging into this crate engine soon
Jeremy, can’t wait to come along for the ride (then experience the ride at MATS)!
Doing everything I can to get this bad boy there in time 👍🏻
Oh ok, I didn't realize Viper engines had that many flaws.
It's kind of a good thing on your behalf, that these engines have been around long enough for these problems to become known, before you built yours.... It'll sure be an awesome build when you're done though, she'll be a real show stopper.
I feel like the issues aren’t spoken about as much due to the fact that many vipers are garage queens and barely see any mileage. Certainly glad the issues have been identified already. Allows me to bullet proof this monster before thrashing on it.
What about the cam bore that used no bearings and the cam ran on the aluminum of the block I've seen a shop article where they take the block and machine it to except cam bearings wouldn't this be a major upgrade to cam and block longevity.
Here’s the deal with the cam bearings (or lack there of). The block surface will usually only experience damage when something else has gone wrong and introduced contaminants to the oil (failed main or rod bearing, etc). In this situation, the engine needs a rebuild. To retrofit the blocks for bearings you need to completely strip down the engine and bore out the block. This is essentially a rebuild. In short, it only makes sense to retrofit the block for cam bearings after it’s already suffered a major failure of some kind and needs to be rebuilt.
That PS pully is a lot more than $50-$60 in my experience (although still worth the $200 they actually cost). Also, I'd recommend an Acusump oil accumulator if tracking these cars...
I went and looked at a low milage (7000) 93. There's no record of the piston rings being changed. There's also no record that a recall was ever issued. I think it might be impossible to get that information now....
Thank you for the info . Where can I buy a billet cap for power steering? Mines started leaking
Honestly, Roe Racing was my go-to but, they announced bankruptcy last year. I haven’t found a new supplier yet.
What if you put an o-ring at the top of the ps lid so when it's tightened there's a little bit of a torque being applied to it to keep it from loosening up. 😅
A friend of mine owns a 2004 Ram Pick Up with the Viper engine. He recently told me the engine dropped a valve and needs to be rebuilt. He states the shops near Vegas quoted a cost of close to $30,000. Is that accurate or is he giving me some BS?
That sounds ridiculous. There was a complete 04-06 crate engine for sale in the PHX area for around 12k in April ‘23. If the shop quoted 30k, they didn’t want to deal with the truck.
Dang Iv got a very early vin 93 model with 15k and I'm sure none of these things have been addressed yet. I don't regret buying it but its def become a money pit.
They are fantastic cars that offer a very cool driving experience. It’s getting difficult to find someone knowledgeable to work on these engines. If you’re up for it, they are relatively simple in design and can be wrenched on at home.
My project is a swap too but instead of a cuda its a awd charger
So your the guy that beat me at bidding that 0 miles viper engine.
I actually picked this up back in 2019. Watching that engine sell on BaT definitely had me thinking though
Does the gen 4 8.4 have any problem?
The gen 4 V10 has been regarded as one of the best V-type engines to ever be produced from Dodge. In stock form, there have been no significant problems identified.
Where can I get a bullet cap for my power steering resrvoir?
Thx man!!
I have a 2004 with lifter /pushrod chatter , should I check valve lash?
I have the same noise however for my Dodge truck and it was from the ethanol the 10% ethanol in the gasoline.
👍💪
show us the tear down
Hey, Jeremy! Looking at an '03 Viper and just watched your video. The one I'm looking at has 86k miles. Are there any other questions or concerns that I need to be aware of? Thank you so much.
Just oil cooler lines that leak and window regulator problems, and door sagging. Small easy fixes
@@6.2_zeus thank you so much for the response