As you have installed the generator, make sure you install new anodes to the hull. MAKING SURE they are the same exact composition, if you mix suppliers, you will find that one set or the other will be eaten up, by electrolysis, then the outboard engine lower units. Get a silver/silver chloride reference electrode to make sure you haven't created a battery out of your boat.
You might want to consider a heat exchanger to separate outside water and inside of the engine coolant. After some time there grows a whole biotop in the engine, which is difficult to clean. The engine in my first boat was full of mussels. In my next boat i installed a heat exchanger which is easy to clean, just by removing the front plate and using long and thin brushes.
You're wasting your breath. The guy is obviously clueless, and doesn't have the money to do it right. He should have done that in the beginning, but he cheaped out on the generator unit. The whole boat is a cheap piece of junk in the first place.
Make sure your engine is properly grounded , thats the biggest thing ! Run a cable to the hull from the frame of the generator ., the rubber feet are isolating it !
Use a power drill to excite the field. Plug the drill into the socket on the generator. Attach a crank handle in the drill chuck. Hold the drill securely and manually spin the drill motor with the handle. I would try spinning the motor clockwise and counterclockwise just to be sure. It doesn't always take on the first try, so you may have to work at it for a bit.
Solar is a potential solution for your electrical needs. You have a large roof area to support many KWH of solar input per day. Set up a battery storage system and you're good to gone solution and no fuel storage issues, noise, and vibration issues...kunk.
So just as food for thought, before you scrap the old generator, I would have a specialist take a look! A diesel engine doesn't break down so quickly due to overheating, and if the generator has broken down, then it's not "traditional German quality" like Könner & Söhnen have on their label, but some cheap Chinese scrap! If you have only spoken to Könner & Söhnen about it, I would definitely consult a specialist and get a second opinion!
In my experience that is typical "German quality". Over priced, over complicated, rubbish. You want quality buy Chinese every time at a fraction of the price, it'll last at least ten times as long. I've never bought anything German that's been any good. It will be very shiny, they're good at polishing a turd.
Absolutely fantastic! The major update in your 60ft houseboat project is truly commendable. Your dedication and hard work in transforming this project into a reality are admirable. It's inspiring to see your commitment to innovation and creativity in designing and building your dream houseboat. This update marks a significant milestone in your journey, and it's exciting to witness your progress. Congratulations on this achievement, and I look forward to seeing the continued success of your project! And I am Floating Village Life.
Electric Drill, hold the trigger and spin the chuck backwards by hand. You'll soon feel it fight your hand whilst it starts to spin itself forwards, slowly at first but will speed up.
The generator end is a rotating transformer: primary winding and secondary winding... There is a capacitor that is powered by induction that powers one of the windings. Most genie ends have two ports to attach a battery 12vdc to charge the capacitor(s). Let it charge for a few minutes, then start the generator. plug a load into the genie, and it should start generating. If not, check continuity on each winding and check capacitors using a multimeter.
As I paused and took a screenshot of your caps. They look brand new. Pull them and charge with 12v batt. then plug them in again. Becareful not to touch both of the capacitors' contacts, it's a nasty burn or could kill you if it goes across your heart. I would check the ohms on each wire set going to capactiors using a multimeter.
if your windings are shorted out, either you rewind the genie end or replace it. Also, check for brushes, some genie ends have carbon brushes to transfer energy to and from rotating winding.
@@pauleiselstein132 12 volts caps wouldnt kill you. Yeah yeah its the amp that kill but 12 volts through human body will have a very very low current. He probably wouldnt feel anything. If you short them it will make a big sparks. The heat could probably burn you and its the worst that can happen. BUT! Always respect polarity. Not all caps are like this but I dont know what those are so + on + and - on -. Otherwise it may explode. been there done that.
@pascha4527 Those caps are usually rated for 120 or 240, and some can even go up to 460vac. putting a 12vdc battery to it charges the cap slowly... but it gives it enough to create a magnetic field for the inductance to energize the cap to its full potential. I am wondering if he ever figured it out.
I had a generator that sat for a while and I was told to do the same thing with a drill to excite it back to life. But it didn't work. I ended up getting a new voltage regulator. Still runs fine. Just make sure when you shut down the generator you turn off the power draw first. Great videos and thanks. Good luck, stay safe.
oh my god, use a waterlock for the exhaust, install a thick heavy steel plate under the foundation to prevent vibrations, provide fresh air, every degree warmer is 2 degrees more on exhaust temperature and engine water. check the cinus of the dynamo and output voltage, save up for a good generator, you will enjoy it much more, for example panda, masse, mastervolt, etc.
"check the sinus of the dynamo and output voltage" This. A "pure sine wave" generator is a must. So many stories of electric equipment failure due to low quality generators.
9:21 and you could also use it to heat hot water and underfloor heating by adding a super insulated bulk water tank under the deck. A closed cooling loop is better than using raw water to cool the engine anyway.
To excite the generator plug in a corded drill and turn the chuck using a cordless drill with a large drill bit between the 2 drills. Turn on the cordless drill turning corded drill clockwise.
I am not sure it will work, but if you still have the other generator, keep the generator component in case the one on your generator does not come back to life and see if you can use it with the new generator motor.
I'm sure the capacitors are dead after sitting. When I was a kid, we had an electric motor with a hand crank to feed power back into the outlet, and it was always my job to go down into the hold and crank that for 10 or 15 minutes after we'd parked the boat for more than a few months. My suggestion would be to plug in an electric drill, (or grinder) and then spin the electric drill with a battery powered one. If you put a big flywheel on the grinder you could probably do it by hand over time, it doesn't take a huge load in the capacitors to kick it off.
I believe your exhaust hose should be below the exhaust outlet so water does not backup into the engine when you shutdown. Water will fill that hose in the loop.
I assume that's an aluminum hull. Gotta love it. You're an excellent mechanic. Lots of room to service the generator. I think you need to pull the generator section and get it on the workbench.
Have you tried plugging in a power drill and turning the chuck manually.Tthe "current" generated by the drills armature can flash or spike a recalcitrant generator into power production. Hope this helps, really enjoy your work. Also, did I view a small leak at the engine raw water pump? Looked to me like a seal and or bearing might need replacement.
Damit ein Generator anfängt Strom zu produzieren muss erst mal ein Magnetfeld erstehen. Je nach Aufbau des Generators kann das unterschiedlich passieren. Man kann zum Beispiel einfach 12 Volt von einer Autobatterie zum starten kurzzeitig durch eine der Wicklungen leiten. Nachdem ein Magnetfeld vorhanden ist kann man die Wicklung in Reihe schalten. Für die Stabilisierung der Spannung braucht man ein AVR.
Depends on the brand... "Cheaper" stuff don't have that many protections built in. Neither are they ment to run for an extended period. There is a reason a "weak" Honda still costs 3000€. It is the good shit.
the brushes in the generator may need to be cleaned or replaced. You could also clean the stator while your at it. check all your wiring connections for issues. check switches for proper operation/connections.
After many years off being off grid with solar cells and back up generators I found that the generator had a brush assembly the brushes themselves may be worn not making proper contact and need replacement also they have small springs behind them pressing them against the armature. they may be weak, but that and the capcitors are the most typically issues. Sometime the armature is worn out of round causing one or both of the brushes to stick in the assembly or prematurely wear out. There is also in some models a device that is operated by a solenoid that once the generator is up to speed it engages the brush assembly and disconnects it when the generator dips below the right RPM. That solenoid could also be the problem.
The engine part of your old generator may be bad, but the power making part is most likely fine. You might be able to make it work with this new engine.
You can build a box with acoustic foam on the inside to bring down the noise level. Being water cooled with outside water temperature will not be an issue and you will be shocked on how much noise it will cancel if you do it right.
had a similar issue of no power generation with a "used" portable generator. i replaced the Capacitors (cheap €7 each) i then checked the resistance of the windings and found one was intermittent the repair was to unwrap the winding and i found that a wire was broken 5 cm from the end of the windings some wire wool, solder and heat shrink fixed the issue
Honestly, when the first generator was installed, I was thinking about the cooling and how warm the area under the barge would get if the engine would cool itself just with the surrounding air - but then forgot about it, because I thought this surely would have been thought through. An annoying mistake, ngl., but sometimes they happen.
Sorry for all the trouble you had. But everything you do is incredible to me. Just my uneducated thought on exciting the generator, maybe a larger appliance will do the job. Such as a welder? Thank you for the update! I hope someone can help.
Check the unit for a little circuit breaker on the generator itself. This if exist, operates the self excitor DC generator creating the magnetic field needed. A check for continuity of the windings of the generator would also be a good ideal . there should br no continuity between the windings and the generator housing> Hope this works. Joe R New Bern NC USA
I used a grinder to exite the generator. Just plug in the grinder. Turn on the grinder. Then run the disk up and down on the deck and suddenly the grinder will run. Good luck. I did it my self so I know it works
I am looking for the vid of you finishing your floor. I REALLY hope you added a ton more of those supports under the top plates, because if you didn't, it will be more like a small bouncy castle than a floor. I also hope there was insulation put in? Please say YES...
i remember hearing some time ago that if you plug in a drill then connect a it via a piece of all thread to a cordless drillusing the cordless to spin the wired drill it gives it the excitment needed but you may need to resurch that as it was a long time ago i was told this.... hope it works
So enjoy your episodes and your reasoning for doing things - I believe you use a lot common sense which seems to be in short supply in our day and age.
In the past, many boats used air-cooled diesels, especially military and other government type vessels, here in Europe. The engines were almost invariably the excellent Deutz units. There are however a couple of caveats when installing an air-cooled motor in an enclosed space, such as the engine room of a boat. 1. There must be an adequate supply of cool, outside air, and it should be ducted directly to the cooling fan of the engine. 2. There must be an unobstructed, adequately sized passage for "used" hot air to the outside and ideally, the hot air should also be ducted from the eingine, directly to the outside of the boat. The outside openings for the induction of cool air and for the exhaust of hot air should be adequately seperated. It must not be possible for the engine to re-induct used, hot air. 3. Like all boat engines with a dry exhaust, the part of the exhaust inside the engine room has to be adequately insulated, otherwise it will heat up the engine room to intollerable levels.
Yeah you have to do the backwards drill trick. Plug a drill into your generator, connect a "bit" to the drill. Connect another drill to the same "bit" and power that drill from grid or battery power. Pull both triggers for a moment with your generator running. Done.
If it's been sitting for a long time check the armature and the brushes on the end cap of the stator stator could have some corrosion or your brushes are worn out E
I've ran a large generator off a diesel tractor and the rpm of the tractor motor was around 3200 rpm to keep the generator operating at 60hz. I think in Europe they operate at 50hz.
Don’t throw the old generator away. The motor may not be any good but the generator is fine. It may be possible that you’ll need it in the future and it doesn’t take up much room if you stored below decks. Put a load on the water cooled gen. If ya still don’t have power, then break out the voltage meter an look for voltage across any two lines immediately after the generator and before any thing else just to see if you ARE Generating any electricity. If the generator is working whatsoever, you will have electricity coming off the turbine/generator. If you don’t have any electricity coming off of the generator, it’s either the stater (The spinning thing in the middle🙂) is worn out/burned OR the brushes are not picking up the power. Because let’s face it, The basics, if you spin a piece of metal surrounded by magnets wrapped with copper wire, you will generate electricity. Getting the electricity to/at the correct voltage and where you need it to be is the tricky part.
While sorting generator you might want to take the time to treat all that wood in the bilge. It is going to rot rather quickly in that environment. It takes X amount of time to do it right at install and X x 3 to fix it.
Did you think about using the scrap generator unit from the generator removed , in this way you could solve to issues, the not working water cooled generator and the New generators has the most stable and friendly wave with electronic things
Dude I would have used metal to secure the generator to the boat. If you wanted to use wood use treated dry wood so it won't rot. Good luck on your journey.😊
Hi, I would take it back to the manufacturer and tell them it’s a piece of junk did what you did because they told you to there must be some kind of warranty with it. Anyway keep up the good work
Is the terminal block inside the generator supposed to be a fuse holder with fuses missing? If not, you need to add a circuit breaker to that generator.
Hi, bad luck. You are using to match rubber schock abservers. It wil break one set of rubber shock abserver. You cant use two sets to getter that gifs problems.
I doubt they will cover it. By the way, he mentioned the exhaust modification, it probably voided the warranty. Though, there should have been an overheating cutoff switch. I would tear apart the genset and check to see if there is a cutoff switch that requires a manual reset.
I suggest adding a vent even for the water cooled genie. Have air cycled inside the storage area where the genie is installed. Moving the hot air generated by the genie with fresh cool air will help extend the life of the genset.
Boats are an endless struggle...😂. With a water cooled engine that is not a closed system coolant cannot be used. What safeguards for freezing temperatures are in place to protect the engine from cracking due to the expansion of water when transformed into ice?
Put the generator off the aircooled onto the water cooled. It should be the engine that is dead, not the generator. Unless it is the generator and not the engine, in which case the engine would be worth some money
I am super impressed with your trouble-shooting abilities and can-do spirit, but your barge has a HUGE roof with tons of space for PV panels. Wouldn’t it make more sense to spend money on a solar array and lithium battery setup instead of a diesel generator?
The S1 lead needs to be directly connected to the Output line the rectifier will be excited to deliver the correct voltage this is called a one wire alternator!
Hast Du schon mal drüber nachgedacht, den Generator aus dem KS an den blauen Motor zu hängen? Der blaue Generator sieht mir nach einem alten Bosch Generator aus und wenn da das Kondensatorsetup nicht passt, kannst Du zwar eine Flex bedienen, aber Du bekommst Issues mit Elektronischen Geräten…
Der Generator hat seinen Restmagnetismus verloren. Wenn der Motor läuft eine Gleichspannung zwischen 9 und 12V an die Erregerwicklung legen. Plus an I und Minus an K. Das passiert mit jedem Generator wenn er lange steht.
i know this is a bit too late. but why didn't you just install two small diesel engines or one big one for propulsion and generation of electricity. use electric bow thrusters docking. one tank, one type of fuel, system. use a rudder for steering. mush more simple. i know its more fabrication, but like the new old gen, you could of salvaged most of what you need for this from a scraped boat. then you would have a proper engine room.
I didn't understand your assembly. Why are you using an electric pump for raw water in addition of the raw water pump with an impeler ? Also, you didn't need to cut under the engine for the draining plug since you can service the engine with the integrated oil pump :). Anyway, you loose some weight :). For the generator, you should try to adapt the generating unit of the other toasted generator. Only the "core engine" should be toasted.
As you have installed the generator, make sure you install new anodes to the hull. MAKING SURE they are the same exact composition, if you mix suppliers, you will find that one set or the other will be eaten up, by electrolysis, then the outboard engine lower units. Get a silver/silver chloride reference electrode to make sure you haven't created a battery out of your boat.
You might want to consider a heat exchanger to separate outside water and inside of the engine coolant. After some time there grows a whole biotop in the engine, which is difficult to clean. The engine in my first boat was full of mussels. In my next boat i installed a heat exchanger which is easy to clean, just by removing the front plate and using long and thin brushes.
and then you can use the waste heat to heat the boat with a second heat exchanger
Heat exchanger now will save you lots of problems later.
@@janfrose3502 Amazing idea!
You're wasting your breath. The guy is obviously clueless, and doesn't have the money to do it right. He should have done that in the beginning, but he cheaped out on the generator unit. The whole boat is a cheap piece of junk in the first place.
The heat exchanger is already attached to the engine. "Sole' Diesel" name on it.
Only the motor on the burnt-out generator is bad. You could use the charging parts on your new system.
That depends on how hot the windings of the generator got and for how long.
It's not a "motor", it's an Engine.... The "charging parts" is the motor.
Make sure your engine is properly grounded , thats the biggest thing ! Run a cable to the hull from the frame of the generator ., the rubber feet are isolating it !
Also might want to upgrade those feet. They seem a little soft.
I would defiantly recommend some hose clamps on your fuel line!
Get a "waterlift" muffler for the engine and follow the placement directions to keep back siphoning of exhaust water.
Use a power drill to excite the field. Plug the drill into the socket on the generator. Attach a crank handle in the drill chuck. Hold the drill securely and manually spin the drill motor with the handle. I would try spinning the motor clockwise and counterclockwise just to be sure. It doesn't always take on the first try, so you may have to work at it for a bit.
From cleaning out rusty ingots, to the second generator installed.
This cat has came, so far.
Hope he gets it going in the next one.
Try using an electric drill, plug into gen, use a battery drill to spin the electric one, it worked for mine that sat for years.
Thats the way I've done it too.
He has another generator on the top deck. Could he not plug that into his new generator?
The drill spinning using another drill will excite the windings and trigger the generator to output,
Electric drill with brushes usually works pretty good
Solar is a potential solution for your electrical needs. You have a large roof area to support many KWH of solar input per day. Set up a battery storage system and you're good to gone solution and no fuel storage issues, noise, and vibration issues...kunk.
So just as food for thought, before you scrap the old generator, I would have a specialist take a look!
A diesel engine doesn't break down so quickly due to overheating, and if the generator has broken down, then it's not "traditional German quality" like Könner & Söhnen have on their label, but some cheap Chinese scrap!
If you have only spoken to Könner & Söhnen about it, I would definitely consult a specialist and get a second opinion!
It is most likely a Chinese unit, marketed by the German company.
In my experience that is typical "German quality". Over priced, over complicated, rubbish. You want quality buy Chinese every time at a fraction of the price, it'll last at least ten times as long. I've never bought anything German that's been any good. It will be very shiny, they're good at polishing a turd.
I bet Post-Apocalyptic Inventor (also Deutch) would love to take apart the broken genny
I was thinking about exactly same thing 😂
Great Job getting the old generator out and putting in the newest generator.
You are a hard working man, I love watching your videos. ❤❤❤❤.
Maybe adding solar panels to your houseboat roof and wind generator too for your off grid electric power needs too may help
Absolutely fantastic! The major update in your 60ft houseboat project is truly commendable. Your dedication and hard work in transforming this project into a reality are admirable. It's inspiring to see your commitment to innovation and creativity in designing and building your dream houseboat. This update marks a significant milestone in your journey, and it's exciting to witness your progress. Congratulations on this achievement, and I look forward to seeing the continued success of your project! And I am Floating Village Life.
Electric Drill, hold the trigger and spin the chuck backwards by hand. You'll soon feel it fight your hand whilst it starts to spin itself forwards, slowly at first but will speed up.
The generator end is a rotating transformer: primary winding and secondary winding... There is a capacitor that is powered by induction that powers one of the windings. Most genie ends have two ports to attach a battery 12vdc to charge the capacitor(s).
Let it charge for a few minutes, then start the generator. plug a load into the genie, and it should start generating.
If not, check continuity on each winding and check capacitors using a multimeter.
As I paused and took a screenshot of your caps. They look brand new. Pull them and charge with 12v batt. then plug them in again. Becareful not to touch both of the capacitors' contacts, it's a nasty burn or could kill you if it goes across your heart. I would check the ohms on each wire set going to capactiors using a multimeter.
How are you going to get that genie back into its bottle? 🧞♂️🧞♀️
if your windings are shorted out, either you rewind the genie end or replace it. Also, check for brushes, some genie ends have carbon brushes to transfer energy to and from rotating winding.
@@pauleiselstein132 12 volts caps wouldnt kill you. Yeah yeah its the amp that kill but 12 volts through human body will have a very very low current. He probably wouldnt feel anything. If you short them it will make a big sparks. The heat could probably burn you and its the worst that can happen.
BUT! Always respect polarity. Not all caps are like this but I dont know what those are so + on + and - on -. Otherwise it may explode. been there done that.
@pascha4527 Those caps are usually rated for 120 or 240, and some can even go up to 460vac. putting a 12vdc battery to it charges the cap slowly... but it gives it enough to create a magnetic field for the inductance to energize the cap to its full potential. I am wondering if he ever figured it out.
I had a generator that sat for a while and I was told to do the same thing with a drill to excite it back to life. But it didn't work. I ended up getting a new voltage regulator. Still runs fine. Just make sure when you shut down the generator you turn off the power draw first. Great videos and thanks. Good luck, stay safe.
oh my god, use a waterlock for the exhaust, install a thick heavy steel plate under the foundation to prevent vibrations, provide fresh air, every degree warmer is 2 degrees more on exhaust temperature and engine water. check the cinus of the dynamo and output voltage, save up for a good generator, you will enjoy it much more, for example panda, masse, mastervolt, etc.
"check the sinus of the dynamo and output voltage"
This. A "pure sine wave" generator is a must. So many stories of electric equipment failure due to low quality generators.
“Cinus” is not a word. Sine?
@@Sequestererthat’s quoted incorrectly. He actually wrote “cinus”.
9:21 and you could also use it to heat hot water and underfloor heating by adding a super insulated bulk water tank under the deck. A closed cooling loop is better than using raw water to cool the engine anyway.
To excite the generator plug in a corded drill and turn the chuck using a cordless drill with a large drill bit between the 2 drills. Turn on the cordless drill turning corded drill clockwise.
You have a flat roof, why not use solar panels and or wind mill ? I don`t get the generator part.
SUGGESTION install 2 fans down in the hull. One fan pulls air out while the other blows across the engine
I am not sure it will work, but if you still have the other generator, keep the generator component in case the one on your generator does not come back to life and see if you can use it with the new generator motor.
I'm sure the capacitors are dead after sitting. When I was a kid, we had an electric motor with a hand crank to feed power back into the outlet, and it was always my job to go down into the hold and crank that for 10 or 15 minutes after we'd parked the boat for more than a few months.
My suggestion would be to plug in an electric drill, (or grinder) and then spin the electric drill with a battery powered one. If you put a big flywheel on the grinder you could probably do it by hand over time, it doesn't take a huge load in the capacitors to kick it off.
I believe your exhaust hose should be below the exhaust outlet so water does not backup into the engine when you shutdown. Water will fill that hose in the loop.
I assume that's an aluminum hull. Gotta love it. You're an excellent mechanic. Lots of room to service the generator. I think you need to pull the generator section and get it on the workbench.
Have you tried plugging in a power drill and turning the chuck manually.Tthe "current" generated by the drills armature can flash or spike a recalcitrant generator into power production. Hope this helps, really enjoy your work. Also, did I view a small leak at the engine raw water pump? Looked to me like a seal and or bearing might need replacement.
Damit ein Generator anfängt Strom zu produzieren muss erst mal ein Magnetfeld erstehen. Je nach Aufbau des Generators kann das unterschiedlich passieren. Man kann zum Beispiel einfach 12 Volt von einer Autobatterie zum starten kurzzeitig durch eine der Wicklungen leiten. Nachdem ein Magnetfeld vorhanden ist kann man die Wicklung in Reihe schalten. Für die Stabilisierung der Spannung braucht man ein AVR.
Did not the diesel engine have a hi temp safety warning or hi temp safety shutdown incorporated in it operational design?
Depends on the brand... "Cheaper" stuff don't have that many protections built in. Neither are they ment to run for an extended period. There is a reason a "weak" Honda still costs 3000€. It is the good shit.
the brushes in the generator may need to be cleaned or replaced. You could also clean the stator while your at it. check all your wiring connections for issues. check switches for proper operation/connections.
After many years off being off grid with solar cells and back up generators I found that the generator had a brush assembly the brushes themselves may be worn not making proper contact and need replacement also they have small springs behind them pressing them against the armature. they may be weak, but that and the capcitors are the most typically issues. Sometime the armature is worn out of round causing one or both of the brushes to stick in the assembly or prematurely wear out. There is also in some models a device that is operated by a solenoid that once the generator is up to speed it engages the brush assembly and disconnects it when the generator dips below the right RPM. That solenoid could also be the problem.
Most old generators were excited by a 12 volt car generator. You need control unit.. are get an alternator modified to produce dc current
You should be using fully solar batteries.
plug in a wired electric drill and spin it fast to excite the generator
The engine part of your old generator may be bad, but the power making part is most likely fine. You might be able to make it work with this new engine.
Good start on the replacement generator. Temporary pause. More to discover and learn.
You can build a box with acoustic foam on the inside to bring down the noise level. Being water cooled with outside water temperature will not be an issue and you will be shocked on how much noise it will cancel if you do it right.
had a similar issue of no power generation with a "used" portable generator.
i replaced the Capacitors (cheap €7 each)
i then checked the resistance of the windings and found one was intermittent
the repair was to unwrap the winding and i found that a wire was broken 5 cm from the end of the windings
some wire wool, solder and heat shrink fixed the issue
Check the capacitors. They die over time and sitting even faster.
Honestly, when the first generator was installed, I was thinking about the cooling and how warm the area under the barge would get if the engine would cool itself just with the surrounding air - but then forgot about it, because I thought this surely would have been thought through. An annoying mistake, ngl., but sometimes they happen.
😮
Sorry for all the trouble you had. But everything you do is incredible to me. Just my uneducated thought on exciting the generator, maybe a larger appliance will do the job. Such as a welder? Thank you for the update! I hope someone can help.
Check the unit for a little circuit breaker on the generator itself. This if exist, operates the self excitor DC generator creating the magnetic field needed. A check for continuity of the windings of the generator would also be a good ideal . there should br no continuity between the windings and the generator housing> Hope this works. Joe R New Bern NC USA
I used a grinder to exite the generator. Just plug in the grinder. Turn on the grinder. Then run the disk up and down on the deck and suddenly the grinder will run. Good luck. I did it my self so I know it works
I am looking for the vid of you finishing your floor. I REALLY hope you added a ton more of those supports under the top plates, because if you didn't, it will be more like a small bouncy castle than a floor. I also hope there was insulation put in? Please say YES...
i remember hearing some time ago that if you plug in a drill then connect a it via a piece of all thread to a cordless drillusing the cordless to spin the wired drill it gives it the excitment needed but you may need to resurch that as it was a long time ago i was told this.... hope it works
So enjoy your episodes and your reasoning for doing things - I believe you use a lot common sense which seems to be in short supply in our day and age.
I had a generator I couldn't excite, turned out to be a $3 diode but I had to remove the cover off the stator to get at it.
In the past, many boats used air-cooled diesels, especially military and other government type vessels, here in Europe. The engines were almost invariably the excellent Deutz units. There are however a couple of caveats when installing an air-cooled motor in an enclosed space, such as the engine room of a boat.
1. There must be an adequate supply of cool, outside air, and it should be ducted directly to the cooling fan of the engine.
2. There must be an unobstructed, adequately sized passage for "used" hot air to the outside and ideally, the hot air should also be ducted from the eingine, directly to the outside of the boat. The outside openings for the induction of cool air and for the exhaust of hot air should be adequately seperated. It must not be possible for the engine to re-induct used, hot air.
3. Like all boat engines with a dry exhaust, the part of the exhaust inside the engine room has to be adequately insulated, otherwise it will heat up the engine room to intollerable levels.
Hey, you're going to need to make that platform metal eventually. The threads on those screws WILL saw through the plywood.
Flash it with electric drill, spin the drill by hand, plugged in to one of the sockets on generator
Always look forward to and enjoy your videos. Looking forward to seeing the next video with an ‘excited ‘ generator.😉👍⛵️
Yeah you have to do the backwards drill trick. Plug a drill into your generator, connect a "bit" to the drill. Connect another drill to the same "bit" and power that drill from grid or battery power. Pull both triggers for a moment with your generator running. Done.
just charge the capacitors by connecting a 12vdc battery.
the thing is letting the capacitors charge for a while... they just need enough residual power to energize the winding they are attached to.
If it's been sitting for a long time check the armature and the brushes on the end cap of the stator stator could have some corrosion or your brushes are worn out
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Great job to bounce right back and get the water cooled genset. that 3000 rpm seemed mighty high is that in spec for that diesel?
I've ran a large generator off a diesel tractor and the rpm of the tractor motor was around 3200 rpm to keep the generator operating at 60hz. I think in Europe they operate at 50hz.
Don’t throw the old generator away. The motor may not be any good but the generator is fine. It may be possible that you’ll need it in the future and it doesn’t take up much room if you stored below decks.
Put a load on the water cooled gen. If ya still don’t have power, then break out the voltage meter an look for voltage across any two lines immediately after the generator and before any thing else just to see if you ARE Generating any electricity. If the generator is working whatsoever, you will have electricity coming off the turbine/generator. If you don’t have any electricity coming off of the generator, it’s either the stater (The spinning thing in the middle🙂) is worn out/burned OR the brushes are not picking up the power. Because let’s face it, The basics, if you spin a piece of metal surrounded by magnets wrapped with copper wire, you will generate electricity. Getting the electricity to/at the correct voltage and where you need it to be is the tricky part.
While sorting generator you might want to take the time to treat all that wood in the bilge. It is going to rot rather quickly in that environment. It takes X amount of time to do it right at install and X x 3 to fix it.
Diesels really dont like long exhaust pipes. You have a hole in the hull just behind the generator, just turn the motor.
You need to Ground the generator. also check the Carbonbrushes , if the generator is old they could be wornout
Did you think about using the scrap generator unit from the generator removed , in this way you could solve to issues, the not working water cooled generator and the New generators has the most stable and friendly wave with electronic things
make sure your freshwater pump is mounted below the water line
It's likely been asked already. If you don't need much power as you stated, why not just run a solar setup? You have plenty of area to put panels.
Dude, I seriously look forward for ur video drops n they seem to get further apart. I know work ain’t easy even work u enjoy
Please put on a filter system on the cooling intake
Dude I would have used metal to secure the generator to the boat. If you wanted to use wood use treated dry wood so it won't rot. Good luck on your journey.😊
Nice to see you and your endeavors. A little hint give us a few seconds at the end so we can give you a good thumbs up. Lol
Hi, I would take it back to the manufacturer and tell them it’s a piece of junk did what you did because they told you to there must be some kind of warranty with it. Anyway keep up the good work
Is the terminal block inside the generator supposed to be a fuse holder with fuses missing? If not, you need to add a circuit breaker to that generator.
Would using your electric hoist cable wrapped around the tree (with protection) not have pulled the unit up the ramp?
Why did you not couple the electrical side of the dead genset on the new to you generator?
What are you going to do about the noise of that engine? Are you going to build some noise suppression around it?
Hi, bad luck. You are using to match rubber schock abservers. It wil break one set of rubber shock abserver. You cant use two sets to getter that gifs problems.
take the generator out of the blown up one and
get it attached to the new to you motor and it will have all of the safety
of a modern generator
Have you flashed the capacitor? Or maybee need a new capacitor.
Thanks for sharing the bad with the good. So, did the manufacturer cover the generator under warranty?
I doubt they will cover it. By the way, he mentioned the exhaust modification, it probably voided the warranty. Though, there should have been an overheating cutoff switch. I would tear apart the genset and check to see if there is a cutoff switch that requires a manual reset.
He might just need to replace the overheating sensor.
I suggest adding a vent even for the water cooled genie. Have air cycled inside the storage area where the genie is installed. Moving the hot air generated by the genie with fresh cool air will help extend the life of the genset.
As an old diesel hand, I wondered why you didn't bleed the fuel line on initial hookup. :0
Boats are an endless struggle...😂. With a water cooled engine that is not a closed system coolant cannot be used. What safeguards for freezing temperatures are in place to protect the engine from cracking due to the expansion of water when transformed into ice?
Put the generator off the aircooled onto the water cooled. It should be the engine that is dead, not the generator. Unless it is the generator and not the engine, in which case the engine would be worth some money
Install fuel/water separator - it will let you separate water from fuel.
I am super impressed with your trouble-shooting abilities and can-do spirit, but your barge has a HUGE roof with tons of space for PV panels. Wouldn’t it make more sense to spend money on a solar array and lithium battery setup instead of a diesel generator?
The S1 lead needs to be directly connected to the Output line the rectifier will be excited to deliver the correct voltage this is called a one wire alternator!
Don't but the end of the exhaust pipe in the water it will create back pressure o
And burn up another engine
Hast Du schon mal drüber nachgedacht, den Generator aus dem KS an den blauen Motor zu hängen? Der blaue Generator sieht mir nach einem alten Bosch Generator aus und wenn da das Kondensatorsetup nicht passt, kannst Du zwar eine Flex bedienen, aber Du bekommst Issues mit Elektronischen Geräten…
you could use the generator part from the broken generator.
Der Generator hat seinen Restmagnetismus verloren. Wenn der Motor läuft eine Gleichspannung zwischen 9 und 12V an die Erregerwicklung legen. Plus an I und Minus an K. Das passiert mit jedem Generator wenn er lange steht.
A sea strainer would be a good idea
Old Gen set could be rebuilt and the generator side probably still works fine
Everybody needs to see somebody that can use their brain make some mistakes sometimes. It helps adjust expectations about themselves and others.
get yourself a set of centering rulers; they will change your life!
Does it need something to excite the generator
i know this is a bit too late. but why didn't you just install two small diesel engines or one big one for propulsion and generation of electricity. use electric bow thrusters docking. one tank, one type of fuel, system. use a rudder for steering. mush more simple. i know its more fabrication, but like the new old gen, you could of salvaged most of what you need for this from a scraped boat. then you would have a proper engine room.
Your cooling water system looks a bit sensitive here?
I didn't understand your assembly. Why are you using an electric pump for raw water in addition of the raw water pump with an impeler ?
Also, you didn't need to cut under the engine for the draining plug since you can service the engine with the integrated oil pump :).
Anyway, you loose some weight :).
For the generator, you should try to adapt the generating unit of the other toasted generator. Only the "core engine" should be toasted.
So.....what is the KS10000 unit in the enclosure adjacent to the hatch?
cross terminals create a surge, that will excite the field in generator
I am just about to embark on a similar adventure but half the size....my hull is 30'x10'
I live in the Desert, about an hour away from Oceanside, CA. This is so fascinating to me, not sure why...
Thanks for sharing and taking us along
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