Hi ya Joe. Although this is all Greek to me, it’s still interesting and informative. And I know the hobbyists that are into electronics will greatly appreciate your simple and straightforward tutorial. Thanks. I look forward to your next update. See ya.
Well, for me I find it complicated, even if your explanations are very comprehensive and relatively easy to understand, I also think that the job you were doing helps a lot. If one day I build a train I'll call you to do all the electricity 😁
Buenas noches desde España. Quiero darle las gracias. Me ha ayudado mucho aunque haya tenido que utilizar el traductor de GOOGLE pero me ha sido de muchísima utilidad.
Hi Joe! Great explanation on setting up the modules, Looking forward to seeing them in action on the layout. Maybe screen record the z21 app so we can see the module in action with the track plan on the z21 would be interesting. All the best Tony.
I used the same power supply that feeds the OPTO sensors to feed the DR4088RB [OPTO], ie: 5vDC, just like you would supply the DR4088RB [CS] with a feed from your DCC controller to feed the track in any particular block of track. Hope this helps.
Greetings Malta and hello Joe 🍦 Another very informative and practical video 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Like you, I am a Z21 guy 😎 I have the Rocco detection models but not installed them on the layout yet 😲 I have connected the Digikeijs DR4018 with my signals though 😁 wouldn’t have been able without the videos from DCC Train Automation 😇 your video will be equally as helpful 😁 Very best wishes from the Emerald Isle ☘️
Hi Paul and thanks for your visit :) I love these gadgets and the more complicated they are, the more I dive into them with all my heart, body and soul :) Signals .. hmmm .. there's something I have yet to see about :) Until the next one :)
Ordered that module by mistake but then I soon found with to do with it :) Down on the lower level it is easier to use the infra-red sensors as I don't need to hide them. Anything above the board is legit, so moving them around until you find the perfect spot for them is easy :)
I bought the OPTO module by mistake and then found a use for it. I have 4 blocks (up and down both helix) which are extremely long where the current sensors fail, so with the aid of a couple of relays, I detect the start and the end of these long blocks with the use of these IR sensors. I have a video for this here: bit.ly/3xdiP8O
How long should a section of track be for the track sensor to work? Would it be possible to have a long (5 metre) section of track with a single sensor for that section?
I have 4 sections that are 10m long and because of their geographical shape (oval helix) they are nothing but trouble. In a straight line it is different but then I would break it down into two shorter sections and try. Worse case, you have it all wired ready and move one wire to a new port on your current sensor module. No need to cut track etc etc etc, it would all be done.
@@Hal-Zuzzu_Model_Railway thank you for the reply. That has affirmed my approach. I will try and minimise the curves. Btw - your video is excellent and I will be using it as a reference when I install my sensors.
My longest one is just over 209cm and it is a siding in my fiddle yard. No problem at all there!! What also contributes to false current detection is how you bundle your wires from the track all the way to the current sensor modules. Everything counts. A small issue here and there all add up!
@@Hal-Zuzzu_Model_Railway just out of curiosity - do you wire up more droppers from your DCC system to the longer siding or, on the polarity you are using for detection, have to wire them via the sensor? I am just curious as I will need several droppers to keep the power flowing.
I like to have droppers on each and every individual piece of track. I then run a bus wire for each block and connect the correct droppers for that block to that bus wire. I connect all the black wires together and the red to the correct current sensor module port
The first device has two modules, each with 8 ports. A device has 16 ports in all but they are split up in two. If you look closely, you will see two input sockets, one for each module. Hence, when you see two devices on the table, there are a total of 4 modules. The first click on the screen informs the z21 that THIS particular module is module number ONE, and z21 will assume there are TWO modules numbered from 1 to 16. The next click on the screen informs the z21 that there are a total of 4 modules, so the z21 will once again assume that there are a total of 32 ports now. When I introduced the third device, I informed z21 that this new device should have its address as five (after the other first four) and it assumed, once again, that this has a total of two modules each with eight ports, so it numbered them from thirty-three (after the first thirty-two ports, to port number forty-eight).
Hi ya Joe. Although this is all Greek to me, it’s still interesting and informative. And I know the hobbyists that are into electronics will greatly appreciate your simple and straightforward tutorial. Thanks. I look forward to your next update. See ya.
Thank you Norman. You always have something nice and positive to say :)
Well, for me I find it complicated, even if your explanations are very comprehensive and relatively easy to understand, I also think that the job you were doing helps a lot. If one day I build a train I'll call you to do all the electricity 😁
Packing my bag as I write :)
@@Hal-Zuzzu_Model_Railway Ok I'm waiting for you 😄
lol
Nice demo on installation. very helpful info, thanks for sharing. Dave
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
Hi Joe, Great video & helpful. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Buenas noches desde España. Quiero darle las gracias. Me ha ayudado mucho aunque haya tenido que utilizar el traductor de GOOGLE pero me ha sido de muchísima utilidad.
Very happy to have found my video helpful. Be safe and thanks :)
Now I see the external 5 volt power supply. ( From minute 7:50 )
Thank you very much for the quick reply.
You are welcome :)
very well explained joe ,its probably as complicated using the digikeijs dr5000 to which im about venture into............tony
Once you understand what is going on, it is downhill all the way. Lucky for you, there are so many videos on the dr5000 :)
Interesting and good how-to.
Glad you liked it! thanks :)
Hi Joe! Great explanation on setting up the modules, Looking forward to seeing them in action on the layout. Maybe screen record the z21 app so we can see the module in action with the track plan on the z21 would be interesting. All the best Tony.
Noted :)
We need to catch up! Been a while :)
Joe, thanks for this explanation.
Q: How did you arrange the power supply for the IF.
I used the same power supply that feeds the OPTO sensors to feed the DR4088RB [OPTO], ie: 5vDC, just like you would supply the DR4088RB [CS] with a feed from your DCC controller to feed the track in any particular block of track. Hope this helps.
Greetings Malta and hello Joe 🍦 Another very informative and practical video 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Like you, I am a Z21 guy 😎 I have the Rocco detection models but not installed them on the layout yet 😲 I have connected the Digikeijs DR4018 with my signals though 😁 wouldn’t have been able without the videos from DCC Train Automation 😇 your video will be equally as helpful 😁 Very best wishes from the Emerald Isle ☘️
Hi Paul and thanks for your visit :)
I love these gadgets and the more complicated they are, the more I dive into them with all my heart, body and soul :)
Signals .. hmmm .. there's something I have yet to see about :)
Until the next one :)
Good stuff. Looks like you are all set to start getting optical sensors in the track.
Ordered that module by mistake but then I soon found with to do with it :) Down on the lower level it is easier to use the infra-red sensors as I don't need to hide them. Anything above the board is legit, so moving them around until you find the perfect spot for them is easy :)
Joe how come you use current detectors and optical ?detectors
I bought the OPTO module by mistake and then found a use for it. I have 4 blocks (up and down both helix) which are extremely long where the current sensors fail, so with the aid of a couple of relays, I detect the start and the end of these long blocks with the use of these IR sensors. I have a video for this here: bit.ly/3xdiP8O
@@Hal-Zuzzu_Model_Railway Thanks Joe i will have a look
How long should a section of track be for the track sensor to work? Would it be possible to have a long (5 metre) section of track with a single sensor for that section?
I have 4 sections that are 10m long and because of their geographical shape (oval helix) they are nothing but trouble. In a straight line it is different but then I would break it down into two shorter sections and try. Worse case, you have it all wired ready and move one wire to a new port on your current sensor module. No need to cut track etc etc etc, it would all be done.
@@Hal-Zuzzu_Model_Railway thank you for the reply. That has affirmed my approach. I will try and minimise the curves. Btw - your video is excellent and I will be using it as a reference when I install my sensors.
My longest one is just over 209cm and it is a siding in my fiddle yard. No problem at all there!! What also contributes to false current detection is how you bundle your wires from the track all the way to the current sensor modules. Everything counts. A small issue here and there all add up!
@@Hal-Zuzzu_Model_Railway just out of curiosity - do you wire up more droppers from your DCC system to the longer siding or, on the polarity you are using for detection, have to wire them via the sensor? I am just curious as I will need several droppers to keep the power flowing.
I like to have droppers on each and every individual piece of track. I then run a bus wire for each block and connect the correct droppers for that block to that bus wire. I connect all the black wires together and the red to the correct current sensor module port
Hi Joe. I found this a little confusing as you went from Module Address 1 to 4, then to 2 and then 5. What was all that about?
The first device has two modules, each with 8 ports. A device has 16 ports in all but they are split up in two. If you look closely, you will see two input sockets, one for each module. Hence, when you see two devices on the table, there are a total of 4 modules. The first click on the screen informs the z21 that THIS particular module is module number ONE, and z21 will assume there are TWO modules numbered from 1 to 16. The next click on the screen informs the z21 that there are a total of 4 modules, so the z21 will once again assume that there are a total of 32 ports now. When I introduced the third device, I informed z21 that this new device should have its address as five (after the other first four) and it assumed, once again, that this has a total of two modules each with eight ports, so it numbered them from thirty-three (after the first thirty-two ports, to port number forty-eight).