Just thought I would share the love of this fantastic motor , Mine now done 270000 miles . Two radiators , 3 alternators ,2 water pumps .numerous batteries , tyres, 2 wives . The engine never taken apart. Run mobil 1 all its life.
I agree, my 1997 has just over 200,000 miles and this engine is equal to the Z24 engine I had before this one. I will say this engine doesn't have the power the Z24 had but for me its been dependable and has never let me down. Engine never taken apart except to add the spacer to take care of the start up rattle, It still has the original timing chain. Well built engine!
+Mr1jim Thanks . mine is a 92 and been to cook town ,the bottom end of Tasmania ,west to longreach and some. I have always had faith in it to get there .
That's excellent, don't know what your speed limit is in Australia but that sounds like quite the trip, must have taken you 5 days or more of steady driving. They sure run smooth, they are a well balanced engine.
Jim is a legend when it comes to chain rattle. We live close to each other so he came by and helped me with the install. Very professional and i would recccomend this to any nissan owner experiencing start up chain rattle.
I've been a Nissan/Datsun mechanic for 28 years, and I can tell you this is the single most beneficial and simple products out there to stop such a common problem. Jim is an asset and offers all of the support you could need in getting this done, from the videos here, to instructions that come with the kit. Reasonably priced, straightforward and easy to install. I highly recommend contacting Jim to get your kit today.
I have a 95 nissan 5 speed 2.4 hardbody im having problems with. Missing real bad bogging down .i cant even pull out of the drive way thats is a litle steep it looses power new fuelpump plugs wires .ect.
I just got this kit from James today and installed also. The plastic was missing from the driver side guide. got a new one from Advance auto parts and took the plastic off the new one and was able to install it on the old metal guide inside of the engine. this kit works great. thank you James for your help.
Awesome Video. Ordered the piston cap from James and followed the instructions on the video. Worked perfectly. Also followed the other video of how to install the chain guide with little work and it was spot on. Greatly appreciated .
Great fix! Removing that front cover is very time consuming and a lot of detail work; I had to do that after long-ignoring my loose chain and making an engine milkshake. Had to replace plastic and plastic-coated guide and replaced tensioner. Gears and chain looked good, even after 200,000 + miles. Now have about 290K miles...looking forward to about another 200K.
Contacted James about this issue on my truck and ordered one of his kits. The problem was completely remedied with this method and James was extremely helpful. The install was a bit tedious, but all went well and the noise is now gone. Thank you very much James, you were a great help.
Ordered the spacer kit from Mr.Jim it came in 2 days which was way sooner than I thought. The plastic guide on the drivers side was missing and I found only one piece I could grad the rest was in the oil pan(drained oil and removed oil pan to remove pieces after job was done) Bought a new guide for 15 dollars at the auto parts store and remove the plastic guide from the metal and placed the new plastic guide on the existing one. Jim has a video on how to do this is snaps right in. Following the directions for the spacer install make this an easy job for almost anyone just take your time and watch the video and refer back as needed. My 97 Nissan Hardbody has 216,000 miles and rattled at start up and while driving. After the install there is absolutely no rattle or any noise at start up or while driving and the truck runs much better and has more power than before. Highly recommended to anyone with this problem great product and saves so much time. To be able to do this from the valve cover and not removing the timing cover is a miracle itself. Thanks again Mr.Jim
Watch the videos, as many times as necessary. This piston replacement works. I also replaced the fixed side chain guide cover, through the valve cover. It can be done. My 1996 pickup is running great and without chain rattle. Thank you Jim!
Lol my mom bought our 90 stanza in 91 or 92 with 5,000 miles on it. It was a rental. But I work on it and it's going good. Smoothest sounding engine ever. I've only seen 1 other stanza recently and it sounds like the motors about to blow lol
I've had this tensioner on my truck for 6 months now I can confirm it had fixed the chain slap/rattle issue. But after awhile just as they all do the spring in the tension starts to get used to its position and on startup when the tensioner is waiting for oil pressure you can hear the ratcheting mechanism doing its job as if its moving back and forth a millimeter or two, but such a huge improvement to the stock part from nissan and hopefully keeping those plastic guarded timing guides from exploding into 3 different pieces right when you put new ones in. A well designed and thoughtful revised part and it has lasted the first 6 months I'm sure it will last years to come. 1996 nissan d21 ka24e with 160,000 and to be 300,000 someday run only the best fluids with religious changes
This looks like a GREAT FIX .. I'm new to the KA24E engine as I just bought a 1996 Nissan pick up. It rattles for about a second on start up 75% of the time after it has sat several hours without running .. 1st I'll try an OEM Nissan oil filter, if that doesn't work, I will modify the starting system to where I can crank the motor over for 3 to 5 seconds ( to let it build up oil pressure ) and then turn the ignition on .. If that doesn't take care of it I will try this ...!! Thanx Jim
Thanks a lot Mr1jim. I ordered a tensioner spacer from him and it fixed my horrible timing chain rattle. If you have this issue, I recommend you buy and install one of these spacers. Install was easy, and jim provides all the instructions if you need help.
I purchased the adjustable piston kit from Jim for my 1995 Nissan pickup with 148,000 miles. The rattle noise was pretty substantial as well as the driver's side timing chain guide was completely missing. His videos cover every detail of the process and Jim was even able to answer some questions I had over the phone. I was able to install a new chain guide through the top without removing the front cover. I also dropped the oil pan and removed all the bits of the old chain guide which were sitting at the bottom. It's been over a month now and I've been driving the truck to work and back daily, the rattle is completely gone and the KA24E runs smooth as ever. This kit is the real deal, great product, great videos, and great support from Jim! Thanks!
Thank You, Glad it saved you the cost of installing a new timing chain kit, they always seem to run smoother when the excess chain slack is adjusted out.
I am curious as to how you accessed the two allen bolts that hold on the slack side guide without taking the front cover off? Seems like it would be too tight of a fit to get a wrench in there?
Replace the Plastic Guide insert only. A new plastic insert can be slipped on the old metal backer thru the valve cover with the aid of several flat pieces of steel or wood about the size of a yard stick or similar to help guide the new plastic insert into position at the bottom. You should be able to hear the plastic guide insert snap in at the bottom as it locks into position on the metal backer.
I have a 91 nissan hardbody with the 2.4l and I had that painful timing chain rattle. I ordered Mr1Jim's spacer and my motor sounds beautiful again! Definitely recommend taking his knowledge and ordering one of his parts if you've got that terrible rattle! 👍👍
awesome. I have Nissan 3door 1987 z24 engine... cant thank u enough for this awesome video. doing this I have to get a whole new set of tools but that's my first time fixing this rattle sound after like forever years :D
They won't work on the Z24 engine because chain guide and chain hydraulic tensioner set up is different. If you have chain rattle in a Z24 there are several options available to manually adjust the chain slack. The Z24 has a manual adjustable guide on the tensioner side of the chain. You might be able to get by with just adjusting the guide. The adjustable guide has a slotted adjustment hole in it to be used to adjust any excess chain slack out of the chain. To adjust, first make sure chain is slack free on tension side of chain (opposite side of engine of the adjustable chain guide), then on top of the adjustable chain guide, loosen fastener bolt and push the guide in direction that puts stress on the chain and tighten the bolt. If your chain is worn or you ever have the head milled the cam sprocket can also be adjusted, it has three different adjustment positions on the back side of it that it can be placed in to slightly advance the valve timing as needed. If you find a factory Nissan engine manual for the z24 engine it will explain in more detail.
I bought that spacer from mr jim, and it solved the rattle noise that had been there for almost 10 years.. Now that i start my nissan pick up it starts smooth. Its very easy to replace the spacer.
installed my spacer today was not difficult but can be a challenge to re install the tensioner piston not much room to work in there. thus far no rattle so i am happy will update my report in a few months or so thanks for the product
This worked perfectly! No more rattle and while I was in there I was able to replace the chain guard on the right which had fallen off. Luckily I could still grab the old one and didn't have to remove the oil pan. I think the only thing different than the video I did was pull out the spring and put it into the piston before putting the new piston in. It was easier to feed the spring in already in the piston than getting the piston over the spring already sitting in the hole. Thanks to Mr1jim and others for posting their work on this issue. Now anyone have any ideas how to get the valve cover bolts to tighten I have three that refuse to. :^)
+Matt Byers Thanks for the posting Matt, Glad you got rid of the Nissan notorious death rattle before it did any major damage. Reply to your question: If valve cover bolts won’t tighten, it sounds like the threads are stripped. If this being the case, one option is to, Install a helicoil insert, that matches your original fasteners.
Just did mine today on my 93 nissan hardbody 4cylinder 2wd automatic. Went great and runs smooth now. I too had my chain guide destroyed laying in the pan. I dropped my pan cleaned it all out and replaced the guide through valve cover real easy. I highly recommend Jim's kits because they work great. Saved me over $500 to have the whole thing done. Best of all a roomy like me was able to do it easy enough . Thanks Jim for making our lives much easier . Check out my videos if they help at all. Remember I'm an underwater mechanic not much of a car mechanic yet...lol.
Glad I saved you the bother of doing another timing chain job. They are getting expensive. Nice to hear these engines when rattle free, this is the way they were intended to sound like. Does your engine feel like it has a power increase?
+Mr1jim is the valves supposed to rattle I proud myself on the fact that mine don't rattle because everyone I know that has one theres rattle there valves do then someone told me you can tighten them to much witch I don't think that's my case just wonder what you think?
+captain deadpool KA24E valves should be quiet. The valves are operated by hydraulic lifters that are inserted in the rocker arms. the hydraulic lifters are lubricated from oil that enters them via the cam shaft. You may have a collapsed lifter orif noisey after an oil change, there could be air in the system, the air should bleed out after engine is let to idle for a while the shut down and restarted after it has cooled down.
@Mr1jim Say Jim, I'll finally be installing my spacer this weekend and need to pack the tools to take with me to where I will be doing it. Do you recall the size socket required for that cam bolt? I'll let ya know how it all goes ;)
+Lo Olver 24 mm 3" long deep socket, the 3" long socket will reach just outside the front timing cover making good clearance for the breaker bar and torque wrench.
Hello my harbody 95 4cyl does the same i took the valve cover out and the chain seems to be really loose on the driver side the only thing is that my piston is all the way in i cant locate it can u help please
Absolutely stellar video. I'm on my 3rd d21. They have all done this. The process of this repair makes perfect sense. I noticed you speak of several products. One is a cylindrical piece that you cut with a hack saw, the other has multiple spacer washers. Which do you recommend?
Hello Jim. I have a few questions. I have a 1996 Nissan Hb. On startup it doesn't rattle but at 3000-3500 rpms it produces a loud rattle sound. Doesn't really do it before 3000 or after 3500. Smooth idle and startup just those noises at those ranges. Do I need to replace the timing kit? Just want to make sure before I spend the m I need and time. Thanks!
Might need to trouble shoot to find the exact source: Go around the engine with mechinics stethoscope or short garden hose while its rinning and see if you can determine a location the noise is coming from. At those rpms it might be a loose bearing.
Yes it will cause problems eventually. The chain will sluff off plastic particles from the plastic guide on tension side of chain and mix in the oil, and eventually the plastic guide usually end up breaking and falling into oil pan. If left long enough the chain will cut the metal backer of the guide in half and then the chain will cut a hole in the coolant jacket on timing chain cover directly behind the guide. Eventually coolant will mix with engine oil. Some rigs last for years rattling before this happens others it happens quite quickly.
Jim,do you think that can work for a 2005 nissan pathfinder with the same start up rattle problem?.Or do you have a kit for that one?.Thanks in advance for your response.
I looked over the tensioners used on the 2005 Nissan, they are not designed in a way for my modifications to work, not able to give any help on this engine.
please i'd like to know if the fuel screw for the nissan KA24 is a straight scree or a bent screew because in mine I see the fuel screew bent and it doesn't turn very easy. help me to know what I should do because the engine works too fast I want to slow it down. I already know how to manage the air screew.
Fuel screw should be straight. If the throttle linkage isn’t hanging up and staying open just a little, then it may be sucking air somewhere and it's en-enriching it. Check egr valve for carbon build up inside. Check CTS (coolant temperature sensor) It could be coolant sensor is telling the computer the engine is cold and needs fuel enrichment, just a couple other things to check 1. Before adjusting the idle speed on the engine you should visually check the following items first: air cleaner for being clogged, hoses and ducts for leaks, EGR valve for proper operation, all electrical connectors, gaskets and the throttle valve and throttle valve switch operation. 2. Start engine and warm the engine so it reaches normal operating temperature. The water temperature indicator should be in the middle of the gauge. 3. Then race the engine to 2,000-3,000 rpm a few times under no load and then allow it to return to the idle speed. 4. Connect a tachometer according to the instrument manufacturer's directions. 5. Check idle speed in the neutral position. 6. If idle speed has to be adjusted, disconnect the TPS (throttle sensor harness connector) 7. Adjust the idle speed by turning idle speed adjusting screw. 8. Stop engine. Connect the TPS (throttle sensor harness connector). 9. Remove tachometer and road test for proper operation. Hope you can get the issue resolved.
It goes by various names "Mechinics Grabber Tool" is one of them, see below link: www.google.com/search?q=mechanics+grabber+tool&sxsrf=ACYBGNTETsn1DJh9R1Tf_abahU27J2017Q:1570593603173&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj2v7aOpY7lAhVToFsKHTP8ACQQ_AUIEygC&biw=2048&bih=1010
No , it was replaced with the adjustable piston. Customers were continually cutting the one in the above video short, making them unusable since they are not adjustable, so replaced with the adjustable piston. Adjustable piston has shims to do the adjusting with, easy to add and remove shims as needed. We send twice the amount of shims needed, keep the unused shims for future adjustments.
Mason, Thank You, The Spacers were difficulit for some guys to trim correctely, trimmed too short and no way to add to them so replaced them with the adjustabale piston at below link Those parts along with product reviews can be found at www.martin-industries.net/ Best system for (self adjusting) is the self adjusting ratchet tensioner, they self adjust to always keep chain snug. 2nd best for (manual adjustment) is the Adjustable Piston, best to install these with a chain that is broke in. Timing chains and sprockets continuously wear with increased hours on an engine, if using a manual adjusting system, engine will at some time in the future need further adjustments. There are multiple videos on this chain slack noise on KA24E engines at:www.martin-industries.net/videos If engine has had any milling done to head or block, this lowers camshaft by amount of material removed during milling process. Milling retards valve timing on OHV engines, if its a concern, an adjustable cam sprocket will bring valves back factory setting. Feel free to contact me anytime with questions. Best Regards, Jim
I have about 20 videos on this subject now and a self adjusting ratchet tensioner now available that is working best to control excess chain slack. The standard labor charge shops are charging on this vehicle is right at about 11 hours. So figure on a very long day to do the job. Nissan Factory Engine Manuals covering timing chain remove and replace can be found here: www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals
@@jamesmartin5370 Thanks James. Wow...I had a Maxima with a Front Wheel Drive motor that didn't take 11 hrs to change which was WAY MORE complicated than this motor. I'll let you know what happens...~
I have not experimented with a stronger spring. I know some people have and had success doing this, some guys have put a shim inside the piston to compress the spring slightly and have mentioned it has worked, but then again I have not done this myself. My concern is a stronger spring has the possibility of applying too much pressure and causing other problems. I know a guy who installed a stiffer spring abut a year ago, if you want to contact him, give me your email and I will send it to him in hopes he will respond to you with an update. I do know that the stock spring applies about 12 lbs of force at the operating zone of the tensioner and that Century Spring Corp at at www.centuryspring.com has a spring, part number ''SC-429'' that will fit inside the tensioner and apply about 18 lbs of force but it will need to be shortened slightly to fit propertly. If you search around you might find a closer fit. Since many people have this rattle even after a new chain kit install I think one of the problems may be that the backlash pressure from the valve springs being applied on the timing chain is part of the problem. So when the engine is shut down if there is back pressure on the hydraulic tensioner piston, it slowly gets pushed into its bore. When this happens any oil behind the piston is squeezed out between the piston and cylinder wall, then at start up the hydraulic tensioner piston is in operation with out the help of any hydraulic pressure to dampen the pressures from the chain. Similar to expecting a shock absorber to operate properly with out any fluid in it.
Would of been nice if you gave us the example of how it sounded. What kind of rattle? Do you have an audible clip of what it sound so us who don't know it sounds like "before" removing everything and for those who don't know or able to remove all that cover so we can avoid being told some other BS lie from a mechanic?
I have about 14 videos on this subject, video # 3 has the noise it makes th-cam.com/video/WJXI9-khTaA/w-d-xo.html video # 10 shows what the chain looks like when it is making the noise.
The piston needs to apply some additional pressure on the chain. Piston needs to operate as intended when oil pressure builds up. JB Weld would prevent piston from operating as intended once oil pressure is present.
Hello! At this time, we are changing the chain assembly with the pump on ka24e. In one video about ka24e in Spanish, the master explains that oil starvation is due to poor oil supply to the chain tensioner, where the oil passage groove on the engine block does not coincide with the tensioner groove and they have enough relative asymmetry. So, what do you think, is it worth drilling a groove for quick oil flow into the chain tensioner ?! Since it is necessary that the author of that video claims!?
To address above statement "oil passage groove on the engine block", to my knowledge, KA24E engine blocks don't not have an oil groove, only an oil hole. I have seen many KA24E tensioners from different fabricators. I agree with the author on the mis-match of the oil passage groove on some of the tensioners. I have seen some KA24E tensioners with mis-matched oil grooves when placed on the engine block. 2nd = Position of cam shaft when engine is turned off. If camshaft has forward pressure when engine is turned off this will put stress on the tensioner piston. After several hours tensioner piston will eventually be pushed in, oil that was behind piston will bleed out, when engine is started it takes several seconds for oil pump to build oil pressure to tensioner, this could cause start up chain noise if there is excess chain slack. If camshaft has backwards pressure when engine is turned off this will put stress on side of chain without the tensioner piston. With no pressure on the tensioner piston, oil behind the piston will remain intact, when engine is started piston will hold chain snug until oil pump builds pressure.
@@Mr1jim "If camshaft has backwards pressure when engine is turned off this will put stress on side of chain without the tensioner piston. With no pressu" It turns out that you can do as you did, but since I have no way to find it for purchase, can I weld the washer onto the piston and put a 4.3-inch spring on the outside, since finding rings like yours is also a problem!
@@muhamedsadyk89 Welding a washer would work if you used shims to hold the piston in the out position. It takes only 3/16" of piston sticking out/slack in chain to produce the start up chain rattle, so when adjusting the chain slack keep this in mind. A new chain kit will wear fast at first then slow as chain breaks into the sprocket teeth. So if using a manual adjusting method, after chain has broken in another manual adjustment may be needed. I am not too sure if the spring on the outside would be the best option. I have two items to help out with adjusting the chain. The best one is the self adjusting ratchet tensioner. They self adjusting and lock into position as the chain and sprocket teeth wear so never need to go back in to make manual adjustments. They work good at keeping the chain snug at all times. Can be purchased at: www.martin-industries.net/ Can bee seen at: th-cam.com/video/aClvx8gIQXI/w-d-xo.html
@@Mr1jim Thank you very clearly and clearly explained! It turns out 4/13 inch is quite the right size for the correct chain tension, right?! It would be possible to order, but the delivery will be very long) and the minder will not wait! Well, the main thing is now the principle of the chain tensioner operation has become clear.
@@muhamedsadyk89 No, 4/13 inch is not right size for correct chain tension. To inspect for correct chain tension. Rotate engine so that camshaft is in position that puts all chain slack on tensioner side of engine. In my opinion, the tensioner piston should not be sticking out of tensioner, right size would be 0" to 1/32". If tensioner piston is sticking out of tensioner 3/16" (4.7mm), this is usually where people can hear start up rattle. As more hours are put on engine the sprocket teeth will wear and the piston will slowly start to stick out more, eventually excess chain slack will cause start up rattle. The items I have available will prevent the piston from being pushed back into the tensioner so will control the excess chain slack and prevent the start up rattle. When inspecting the chain for slack, it is better to have no slack. Most OEM tensioners are not able to control excess chain slack on a cold startup. If using an OEM tensioner, when tensioner piston extends out 3/16" (4.7mm), excess chain slack usually causes start up rattle. Hope all goes well with the install..
Spacers were replaced with the Adjustable Piston. The best Item for this issue is the Self Adjusting Ratchet Tensioner. Items are available at www.martin-industries.net/ More videos on is subject at th-cam.com/users/Mr1jimvideos
Yes, if the chain has slack in it the camshaft will be out of time with the crankshaft and so the valves won't be opening and closing at the correct time in relation to the pistons. In these engines, this can be felt when taking off from a dead stop and attempting to gain speed up to about 50 miles an hour or so, you will feel a lagging/lack of power from start up to about 2500 rpms, then, at about 2500 rpms you will be able to feel a power boost, but then when shifting to the next gear the loss of power will be there again up to about 2500 rpms. This low power band in the lower rpms is the result of a slack chain and valves being slightly out of time with crank shaft. If the chain is rattling at start up, chances are high the engine will have low power issues in the lower rpm range. Self adjusting tensioner to date is the best fix for this issue.
@@jamesmartin5370 thanks very much this help I live in a place that have a lost of hills big hills an like going half way up it died second got to go to frist gear
In the middle of the chain. It jams the chain against both chain guides. Purpose is to keep tensioner piston from popping out and prevents chain from dropping off the lower chain sprocket. Its a safety measure.
Different equipment may have different colored wires. Common tach wire colors and what they go to are: Green: Tachometer lead White: 12v Switched (Illumination lead) Red: 12v Constant Positive Black: Ground If your green wire is the Tachometer Lead, it needs to be connected to the negative side of the ignition coil
@@luci-fer250 I believe with two wires the case is ground, the two wires, one goes to the negative side of coil the other one is most likely for the light inside the tach. Not sure of which color of wires are the coil and light, you will need to determine that.
+Zack Burton Every new chain kit install is slightly different from each other on these engines for some reason. You can evaluate the risk and decide if its is worth doing. To evaluate if engine is at high risk of chain rattle, see the 4 steps below. 1. After kit is installed rotate engine so that chain slack is on hydraulic tensioner side of engine. 2. Inspect free piston travel. 3. If free piston travel is 1/8" or less, engine is at low risk of chain rattle. 4. If free piston travel is 1/4" or greater, engine is at high risk chain rattle.
Zack, I have some spacers and adjustable pistons for the KA24E, Send me an Email at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some information you can look over.
David, I have these available see my video# 13 th-cam.com/video/71QRojQQuqw/w-d-xo.html send me an email at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some information to look at.
Jesús, que tienen algún listo para el envío , me envía un correo electrónico a jamesmart55@hotmail.com y te enviará alguna información sobre ellos se puede ver. Estoy utilizando el traductor de google así que espero que se traduce lo suficientemente bueno para entender
Located in Spokane Valley, Washington State. These have been replaced with the adjustable piston, see at www.martin-industries.net/ More videos on this loose chain subject at: th-cam.com/users/Mr1jimvideos
Jessie, I have some spacers and adjustable pistons for the KA24E, that can be used to adjust excess slack out of the chain, Contact me at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some information on them.
The spacer has been replaced by the Adjustable Piston, can be found at: www.martin-industries.net/ The Adjustable Piston is easier to install and more forgiving, it uses adjusting shims so much more easier to make adjustments. The Adjustable Piston is a manual adjustment same as the spacer. The best item is the self adjusting ratchet tensioner, its self adjusting so no need to make any future adjustments.
Yes, I estimate thermostat to be about two inches in diameter. Its mounted behind the power steering pump, its tough to see at first. The thermostat housing cover is dome shaped, looks similar to most standard covers.
Yes, it is a concern: See my youtube video #12 and #14 at th-cam.com/users/Mr1jimvideos If chain guide gets damaged, chain will cut a hole in the front timing chain cover and leak coolant in the oil. If amount of coolant in oil is allowed to raise oil level high enough for the crank shaft to splash the oil, this will create air bubbles in the oil called (foaming), this condition will damage bearings.
+captain deadpool Contact me at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some additional information. They are about $25.00 for a kit at the moment. Price is subject to changes. Jim
I believe it was Nissan's original intent to change the chains at a major engine overhaul, since they don't have a recommended interval change out listed for these timing chains. The self adjusting ratchet tensioner is the best item I have seen for this start up rattle issue so far.
If you have .3 play, you need new sprockets and chain at best and more likely a rebuild motor. If you are doing this just because you don't like start up noise, just turn the radio on because it will do the same thing.
Lo siento, no hablo español. Usaré el Traductor de Google. A menos que pueda corresponder en inglés. Si el motor está temblando, puede ser un disparo erróneo, compruebe si hay una bujía o un cable de bujía defectuosos. También compruebe si hay un inyector de combustible defectuoso. Inspeccione la tapa del distribuidor para detectar grietas.
Yes Z24i was used in 89 in some vehicles. In 89 the KA24E was introduced in some of the 240SX, Pintara, and Axxess & Prairie vehicles. It was a gradual change over on selected vehicles.
great job, i have a 97 Nissan Xe great truck, 5 speed love driving it, i get rattle at start up, last about 3 secs, should i worry about it? I have 179+K miles on it
+Ernst Hin Ernst, My 97 as well rattled for several years until I finally figured out what it was and fixed it, fortunately I had no real damage caused from the slack chain. Some people let them rattle for years with no problems, yet other people experience problems like the drivers side guide breaking, bent valves due to chain jumping teeth. Everyone needs to determine the possible risk and decide from there. From my perspective, I would fix it, a new chain kit or some type of spacer to adjust the excessive slack out of the chain is less expensive than damage others have experienced associated with start up rattle from a slack chain. Here's several youtube users who have left comments that experienced damage from a slack chain99600F4th-cam.com/video/cYr6ajm4rGs/w-d-xo.html Keelerth-cam.com/users/keeler23 Jeremy Riceth-cam.com/channels/Ew4lEGsbKsaLAmHF5l_HyA.html You can go to their youtube channel, contact them, I am sure they will be willing to share their start up rattle experiences.
Parts available can be found at: www.martin-industries.net/ Spacers have been replaced with the Adjustable Piston which performs same function and is more forgiving when making adjustments.
+Vicki Winn I found Nissan service bulletin, (NTB09-128) it relates to chain noise in all engines used in the Frontier for your vehicle, it says to Replace both upper secondary chains, and also both tensioner shoes. It seems that the plastic shoes Nissan used are not holding up to the action and stress the chain is applying on them. I don’t know if the new shoes are any better than the originals? It seems that the plastic shoes wear down rapidly, at about 30,000 miles in some engines from the chain and once wore out the chain rubs on the metal tensioner piston. If you are concerned about engine damage from the rattle you could have your oil tested by Blackstone www.blackstone-labs.com/ this will tell you if there is any undue metal fragments being created from the rattling you are hearing.
D21 misfire once per 1.5 seconds....at 2000 rpm....in nuetral..... OeM injectors Where replaced 2 years ago as a match set I don't know what's wrong with it....
Its possible its related to fuel to air mixture. Air Temp Sensor, Mass Air Flow Sensor, and Throttle Position Sensor all send an electrical signal to the computer. Computer averages voltages from these three sensors and adjusts distributor timing and fuel to keep engine running smooth. The TPS is attached to the butterfly valve shaft in throttle body. The TPS is an electrical rheostat and starts out at a low voltage, as you step on gas pedal the butterfly valve opens to allow more air to enter engine. The TPS increases voltage sent to computer as butterfly valve opens. At the same time the Mass Air Flow Sensor detects the increased volume of air and increases its voltage to computer. All in all the three sensors all need to work within certain parameters or the air to fuel mixture and or timing will be off and engine will not perform as designed. The TPS can be tested with an Ohm meter. If the TPS is removed or a new one installed, it needs to be calibrated with an Ohm meter before it is secured in position so it will be sending correct voltage to computer. Also should check fuel pressure at fuel rail and don't rule out spark plugs. Maybe first pull plug wires one at a time to see if you can determine if its the same cylinder doing the misfire then move forward from there.
Some of these engines have had the exhaust side chain guide eaten apart from the chain. In some cases the small plastic particles from the plastic guide are small enough to make it through the oil pump, then they may plug the oil filter media. If this happens, the oil filter bypass valve will open and some of the plastic particles will move through the engine via the oil journals. If they make to the hydraulic lifters, they may get stuck there and cause oil starved rattling lifters. Were they rattling before you changed out the chain?
@@jamesmartin5370 mine doesnt have lifters (overhead cam) and i also replaced the guides which were only grooved oil is getting up top took off valve cover to see (friend got mad and oily) felt rockers and they are worn out along with the shafts
@@luci-fer250 These engines came stock with rockers that have non adjustable hydraulic lifters built into them. Someone must have put in mechanical rockers on yours, if so there will be an adjustment bolt on the end of them. Sounds like it might be time for new rockers and maybe shafts as well.
@@jamesmartin5370 NOT!!!!! These overhead cam engines have non adjustable rockers only. one side of the rocker is on the camshaft the other end on the valve spring as the engine rotates the camshaft turns lifting up the rocker therefore pushing down on the valve spring opening the valve...if it had lifters the camshaft would have to be below them pushing up on a lifter with a pushrod since this engine does not have lifters the cam and rockers are on top henceforth overhead cam.
Whow, Thats a good track record, mines got about 250,000 miles. So far only thing on engine I have replaced is timing chain tensioner. I changed it out to a self adjusting ratchet tensioner, it increased the low rpm power. I have talked to people with 400,000 and 500,000 miles on them and still running smooth, at 500,000 they smoke a little bit. In my opinion these are some of the most dependable rigs around once the timing chain rattle is taken care of.
Check out the below link, sounds like there are possible problems near the factory radio harness? There's a wire in there that controls the gauge lights. www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6556
U guys really need to just go ahead and replace the timing chain in y'all's vehicles. I just did a 22r nearly identical to this. It took several hours and I did it without pulling the head. Just do the whole job
I think you are working in the wrong side. The problem is in the point the piston touch the guide., Just put somthing in that part of the guide. I just replace the spreeng and workis. good for me in a video one guy say the problem is in the oil hole. In the tenssioner. ( dont macht whit the one in the ingine block. ) that is the real problem becouse the new tensioners come difernt in that area. ,
Sin embargo, debe entender lo mejor para instalar un nuevo kit en el distribuidor. El nuevo kit del distribuidor no siempre arregla el ruido de arranque de la cadena de distribución. Si el ruido de arranque de la cadena de distribución no es fijo, la falla del motor ocurrirá.
No estoy seguro si puedo ayudar, no hablo español. Uso Google Translator para escribir esto, el inglés es más fácil para mí. Parece que el motor se está cortando, corre y luego se apaga. Si funciona por un tiempo, luego se apaga. ¿Ha comprobado una gran cantidad de gases de escape que provienen del tubo de escape? Si el convertidor catalítico está obstruido, esto puede hacer que el motor funcione y luego detenerse.
I had a 720, mine had the Z24i engine, that was a great engine, always had lots of power even at 300.000 miles it ran smooth as the day we bought it, hang on to it, well designed engine. The 720 had a different chain set up, slack side guide can be adjusted manually through the valve cover to eliminate excess chain slack. The tensioner is completely different as well. I am now fabricating a self adjusting ratchet tensioner for these that are working good, a lot of guys with KA24Es are ending up with chain rattle a week or so after new chain job. Thanks for the comment.
@@Mr1jim yeah, The mechanic who replaced the timing set in my mothers never had an issue, but car was 15 yrs old. After the replacement it started slapping a few years after. The mechanic did a horrible job sealing the cover, the engines a mess.
@@JCnordic2983 This is typical of most of these engines. If head was removed and any milling was done, the material removed during milling on these over head cam engines increases chances of chain rattle because when head is bolted back to block, cam shaft ends up being lower so chain has a slight amount of extra chain slack.
Thank You for the comment Kennedy, Some items that can improve torque in the KA24E are: Installing a self adjustable ratchet tensioner, increases low RPM torque in these engines from idle to about 2500 rpms. If head or block have been milled in these, engine will end up being weak as you say, milling lowers camshaft, end result is valve timing is slightly retarded. This can be solved by installing an adjustable cam sprocket to advance camshaft timing where it was before the milling process was done. A lot of KA24DE owners are using these parts, including the self adjusting ratchet tensioners and are reporting positive results.
Just thought I would share the love of this fantastic motor ,
Mine now done 270000 miles . Two radiators , 3 alternators ,2 water pumps .numerous batteries , tyres, 2 wives .
The engine never taken apart.
Run mobil 1 all its life.
I agree, my 1997 has just over 200,000 miles and this engine is equal to the Z24 engine I had before this one. I will say this engine doesn't have the power the Z24 had but for me its been dependable and has never let me down. Engine never taken apart except to add the spacer to take care of the start up rattle, It still has the original timing chain. Well built engine!
+Mr1jim Thanks . mine is a 92 and been to cook town ,the bottom end of Tasmania ,west to longreach and some.
I have always had faith in it to get there .
That's excellent, don't know what your speed limit is in Australia but that sounds like quite the trip, must have taken you 5 days or more of steady driving. They sure run smooth, they are a well balanced engine.
+Mr1jim These trips werent done in one go .
Top to bottom of Australia is a long long way.
Me Jim, where can I get those parts? The tensioner or spacers and such. Thx
Jim is a legend when it comes to chain rattle. We live close to each other so he came by and helped me with the install. Very professional and i would recccomend this to any nissan owner experiencing start up chain rattle.
Jeremy Rice how can i contact jim to get a spacer?
where is he located??
Jeremy Rice / where can get the spacer , I put in a new timing chain set and I still have the start up rattle.
I've been a Nissan/Datsun mechanic for 28 years, and I can tell you this is the single most beneficial and simple products out there to stop such a common problem. Jim is an asset and offers all of the support you could need in getting this done, from the videos here, to instructions that come with the kit. Reasonably priced, straightforward and easy to install. I highly recommend contacting Jim to get your kit today.
+Bill Suldovsky how much?
Email Jim for pricing. His address is on the video.
I have a 95 nissan 5 speed 2.4 hardbody im having problems with. Missing real bad bogging down .i cant even pull out of the drive way thats is a litle steep it looses power new fuelpump plugs wires .ect.
@@rodneypeden5932 try unplugging the egr and seeing if its runs. could be your egr stuck open
I just got this kit from James today and installed also. The plastic was missing from the driver side guide. got a new one from Advance auto parts and took the plastic off the new one and was able to install it on the old metal guide inside of the engine. this kit works great. thank you James for your help.
Thanks Jamie,
Glad it saved you the time and trouble of pulling the whole front of the engine off.
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.
great video, learned alot.
thak you for your proffesional service and support!
Awesome Video. Ordered the piston cap from James and followed the instructions on the video. Worked perfectly. Also followed the other video of how to install the chain guide with little work and it was spot on. Greatly appreciated .
Thanks for the comment.
Glad it saved you from installing a complete timing chain kit.
Great fix! Removing that front cover is very time consuming and a lot of detail work; I had to do that after long-ignoring my loose chain and making an engine milkshake. Had to replace plastic and plastic-coated guide and replaced tensioner. Gears and chain looked good, even after 200,000 + miles. Now have about 290K miles...looking forward to about another 200K.
Contacted James about this issue on my truck and ordered one of his kits. The problem was completely remedied with this method and James was extremely helpful. The install was a bit tedious, but all went well and the noise is now gone. Thank you very much James, you were a great help.
Thanks for the feedback.
Glad your KA24E is a rattle free runner now.
Ordered the spacer kit from Mr.Jim it came in 2 days which was way sooner than I thought. The plastic guide on the drivers side was missing and I found only one piece I could grad the rest was in the oil pan(drained oil and removed oil pan to remove pieces after job was done) Bought a new guide for 15 dollars at the auto parts store and remove the plastic guide from the metal and placed the new plastic guide on the existing one. Jim has a video on how to do this is snaps right in. Following the directions for the spacer install make this an easy job for almost anyone just take your time and watch the video and refer back as needed. My 97 Nissan Hardbody has 216,000 miles and rattled at start up and while driving. After the install there is absolutely no rattle or any noise at start up or while driving and the truck runs much better and has more power than before. Highly recommended to anyone with this problem great product and saves so much time. To be able to do this from the valve cover and not removing the timing cover is a miracle itself. Thanks again Mr.Jim
Watch the videos, as many times as necessary. This piston replacement works. I also replaced the fixed side chain guide cover, through the valve cover. It can be done. My 1996 pickup is running great and without chain rattle. Thank you Jim!
Thank You for the Feedback Paul. Glad it saved you cost of doing a complete Timing chain job.
Had my mechanic put this on my 92 stanza 4 months ago and the rattle is still gone, Thank you Mr Jim.
+The Shortman I thought I was the only one with a stanza around.
+Rajinder Singh nope, bought mine brand new in 92 and still love driving it.
Lol my mom bought our 90 stanza in 91 or 92 with 5,000 miles on it. It was a rental. But I work on it and it's going good. Smoothest sounding engine ever. I've only seen 1 other stanza recently and it sounds like the motors about to blow lol
I've had this tensioner on my truck for 6 months now I can confirm it had fixed the chain slap/rattle issue. But after awhile just as they all do the spring in the tension starts to get used to its position and on startup when the tensioner is waiting for oil pressure you can hear the ratcheting mechanism doing its job as if its moving back and forth a millimeter or two, but such a huge improvement to the stock part from nissan and hopefully keeping those plastic guarded timing guides from exploding into 3 different pieces right when you put new ones in. A well designed and thoughtful revised part and it has lasted the first 6 months I'm sure it will last years to come.
1996 nissan d21 ka24e with 160,000 and to be 300,000 someday run only the best fluids with religious changes
Thanks Nickolas,
This looks like a GREAT FIX .. I'm new to the KA24E engine as I just bought a 1996 Nissan pick up. It rattles for about a second on start up 75% of the time after it has sat several hours without running .. 1st I'll try an OEM Nissan oil filter, if that doesn't work, I will modify the starting system to where I can crank the motor over for 3 to 5 seconds ( to let it build up oil pressure ) and then turn the ignition on .. If that doesn't take care of it I will try this ...!! Thanx Jim
Thanks a lot Mr1jim. I ordered a tensioner spacer from him and it fixed my horrible timing chain rattle. If you have this issue, I recommend you buy and install one of these spacers. Install was easy, and jim provides all the instructions if you need help.
Thanks for the reply,
Another rattle free Ka24E
@@Mr1jim where do I order a tensioner spacer?
I purchased the adjustable piston kit from Jim for my 1995 Nissan pickup with 148,000 miles. The rattle noise was pretty substantial as well as the driver's side timing chain guide was completely missing. His videos cover every detail of the process and Jim was even able to answer some questions I had over the phone. I was able to install a new chain guide through the top without removing the front cover. I also dropped the oil pan and removed all the bits of the old chain guide which were sitting at the bottom. It's been over a month now and I've been driving the truck to work and back daily, the rattle is completely gone and the KA24E runs smooth as ever. This kit is the real deal, great product, great videos, and great support from Jim! Thanks!
Thank You, Glad it saved you the cost of installing a new timing chain kit, they always seem to run smoother when the excess chain slack is adjusted out.
I am curious as to how you accessed the two allen bolts that hold on the slack side guide without taking the front cover off? Seems like it would be too tight of a fit to get a wrench in there?
Replace the Plastic Guide insert only. A new plastic insert can be slipped on the old metal backer thru the valve cover with the aid of several flat pieces of steel or wood about the size of a yard stick or similar to help guide the new plastic insert into position at the bottom. You should be able to hear the plastic guide insert snap in at the bottom as it locks into position on the metal backer.
Mr1jim
Thank you so much!
Mr1jim I have a 1992 that has all plastic guides. Is it possible to replace the guides without pulling the timing chain cover off?
I have a 91 nissan hardbody with the 2.4l and I had that painful timing chain rattle. I ordered Mr1Jim's spacer and my motor sounds beautiful again! Definitely recommend taking his knowledge and ordering one of his parts if you've got that terrible rattle! 👍👍
Where would I find this repair kit
Wow great video, it helped me a lot. Thanks!
awesome. I have Nissan 3door 1987 z24 engine... cant thank u enough for this awesome video. doing this I have to get a whole new set of tools but that's my first time fixing this rattle sound after like forever years :D
They won't work on the Z24 engine because chain guide and chain hydraulic tensioner set up is different.
If you have chain rattle in a Z24 there are several options available to manually adjust the chain slack.
The Z24 has a manual adjustable guide on the tensioner side of the chain.
You might be able to get by with just adjusting the guide.
The adjustable guide has a slotted adjustment hole in it to be used to adjust any excess chain slack out of the chain.
To adjust, first make sure chain is slack free on tension side of chain (opposite side of engine of the adjustable chain guide), then on top of the adjustable chain guide, loosen fastener bolt and push the guide in direction that puts stress on the chain and tighten the bolt.
If your chain is worn or you ever have the head milled the cam sprocket can also be adjusted, it has three different adjustment positions on the back side of it that it can be placed in to slightly advance the valve timing as needed.
If you find a factory Nissan engine manual for the z24 engine it will explain in more detail.
Mr1jim i see. Yes i have downloaded the manual. Thanks for the tips. I Hope i can handle it myself.
I bought that spacer from mr jim, and it solved the rattle noise that had been there for almost 10 years.. Now that i start my nissan pick up it starts smooth. Its very easy to replace the spacer.
+ISMAEL CAPISTRAN
Ismael,
Thanks for the comment.
Nice to hear it worked out for you.
Hey I have the exact same problem and I am just wondering where do you get the part
More info at: www.martin-industries.net/
Where can I get hold of this piston spacer , I put in a new timing chain set and I still have the start up rattle.
installed my spacer today was not difficult but can be a challenge to re install the tensioner piston not much room to work in there. thus far no rattle so i am happy will update my report in a few months or so thanks for the product
Your welcome Matt.
And
Thank You for the feedback.
This worked perfectly! No more rattle and while I was in there I was able to replace the chain guard on the right which had fallen off. Luckily I could still grab the old one and didn't have to remove the oil pan. I think the only thing different than the video I did was pull out the spring and put it into the piston before putting the new piston in. It was easier to feed the spring in already in the piston than getting the piston over the spring already sitting in the hole. Thanks to Mr1jim and others for posting their work on this issue. Now anyone have any ideas how to get the valve cover bolts to tighten I have three that refuse to. :^)
+Matt Byers
Thanks for the posting Matt,
Glad you got rid of the Nissan notorious death rattle before it did any major damage.
Reply to your question:
If valve cover bolts won’t tighten, it sounds like the threads are stripped.
If this being the case, one option is to, Install a helicoil insert, that matches your original fasteners.
Thank you for your time
Brilliant video 👍🏻
Thank You for the comment.
I have three options to adjust the excess chain slack out of these KA24E engines, they also work on the KA24DEs
Just did mine today on my 93 nissan hardbody 4cylinder 2wd automatic. Went great and runs smooth now. I too had my chain guide destroyed laying in the pan. I dropped my pan cleaned it all out and replaced the guide through valve cover real easy. I highly recommend Jim's kits because they work great. Saved me over $500 to have the whole thing done. Best of all a roomy like me was able to do it easy enough . Thanks Jim for making our lives much easier . Check out my videos if they help at all. Remember I'm an underwater mechanic not much of a car mechanic yet...lol.
Glad I saved you the bother of doing another timing chain job.
They are getting expensive.
Nice to hear these engines when rattle free, this is the way they were intended to sound like.
Does your engine feel like it has a power increase?
Actually it does feel like it.
+Mr1jim is the valves supposed to rattle I proud myself on the fact that mine don't rattle because everyone I know that has one theres rattle there valves do then someone told me you can tighten them to much witch I don't think that's my case just wonder what you think?
Mine did the same thing after I did mine. After a little bit it went away.
+captain deadpool KA24E valves should be quiet. The valves are operated by hydraulic lifters that are inserted in the rocker arms. the hydraulic lifters are lubricated from oil that enters them via the cam shaft. You may have a collapsed lifter orif noisey after an oil change, there could be air in the system, the air should bleed out after engine is let to idle for a while the shut down and restarted after it has cooled down.
@Mr1jim Say Jim, I'll finally be installing my spacer this weekend and need to pack the tools to take with me to where I will be doing it. Do you recall the size socket required for that cam bolt? I'll let ya know how it all goes ;)
+Lo Olver 24 mm 3" long deep socket, the 3" long socket will reach just outside the front timing cover making good clearance for the breaker bar and torque wrench.
Thank you so much ;)
Mr1jim I would like to buy a spacer kit
Jim, I'm having a hard time finding where to get the spacer. Where can I get one please? Thanks
Hello my harbody 95 4cyl does the same i took the valve cover out and the chain seems to be really loose on the driver side the only thing is that my piston is all the way in i cant locate it can u help please
Absolutely stellar video. I'm on my 3rd d21. They have all done this. The process of this repair makes perfect sense. I noticed you speak of several products. One is a cylindrical piece that you cut with a hack saw, the other has multiple spacer washers. Which do you recommend?
Self Adjusting Ratchet Tensioner is the best
Hello Jim. I have a few questions. I have a 1996 Nissan Hb. On startup it doesn't rattle but at 3000-3500 rpms it produces a loud rattle sound. Doesn't really do it before 3000 or after 3500. Smooth idle and startup just those noises at those ranges. Do I need to replace the timing kit? Just want to make sure before I spend the m I need and time. Thanks!
Might need to trouble shoot to find the exact source:
Go around the engine with mechinics stethoscope or short garden hose while its rinning and see if you can determine a location the noise is coming from.
At those rpms it might be a loose bearing.
Any idea if living with the noise will cause any problems beside maybe jumping a tooth? just replaced timing chain, sprockets, guides, and tensioner
Yes it will cause problems eventually.
The chain will sluff off plastic particles from the plastic guide on tension side of chain and mix in the oil, and eventually the plastic guide usually end up breaking and falling into oil pan.
If left long enough the chain will cut the metal backer of the guide in half and then the chain will cut a hole in the coolant jacket on timing chain cover directly behind the guide.
Eventually coolant will mix with engine oil.
Some rigs last for years rattling before this happens others it happens quite quickly.
Jim,do you think that can work for a 2005 nissan pathfinder with the same start up rattle problem?.Or do you have a kit for that one?.Thanks in advance for your response.
I looked over the tensioners used on the 2005 Nissan, they are not designed in a way for my modifications to work, not able to give any help on this engine.
Mr1 Jim Thank you for your very informative videos, would love to purchase the chain rattle repair kit.
Thanks Rick,
Available parts are at: www.martin-industries.net/
@@jamesmartin5370 Hello Mr. JIM I have 1997 Nissan truck ka24e that has jumped timing do you have a video with the procedure to put back into time
please i'd like to know if the fuel screw for the nissan KA24 is a straight scree or a bent screew because in mine I see the fuel screew bent and it doesn't turn very easy. help me to know what I should do because the engine works too fast I want to slow it down. I already know how to manage the air screew.
Fuel screw should be straight.
If the throttle linkage isn’t hanging up and staying open just a little, then it may be sucking air somewhere and it's en-enriching it. Check egr valve for carbon build up inside. Check CTS (coolant temperature sensor) It could be coolant sensor is telling the computer the engine is cold and needs fuel enrichment, just a couple other things to check
1. Before adjusting the idle speed on the engine you should visually check the following items first: air cleaner for being clogged, hoses and ducts for leaks, EGR valve for proper operation, all electrical connectors, gaskets and the throttle valve and throttle valve switch operation.
2. Start engine and warm the engine so it reaches normal operating temperature. The water temperature indicator should be in the middle of the gauge.
3. Then race the engine to 2,000-3,000 rpm a few times under no load and then allow it to return to the idle speed.
4. Connect a tachometer according to the instrument manufacturer's directions.
5. Check idle speed in the neutral position.
6. If idle speed has to be adjusted, disconnect the TPS (throttle sensor harness connector)
7. Adjust the idle speed by turning idle speed adjusting screw.
8. Stop engine. Connect the TPS (throttle sensor harness connector).
9. Remove tachometer and road test for proper operation.
Hope you can get the issue resolved.
What is the tool you pick up the spring with its like a little Grabber tool?
It goes by various names "Mechinics Grabber Tool" is one of them, see below link:
www.google.com/search?q=mechanics+grabber+tool&sxsrf=ACYBGNTETsn1DJh9R1Tf_abahU27J2017Q:1570593603173&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj2v7aOpY7lAhVToFsKHTP8ACQQ_AUIEygC&biw=2048&bih=1010
The one I see on the website different spacers, not a single piece like the one in the video. Is the one in the video still available?
No , it was replaced with the adjustable piston.
Customers were continually cutting the one in the above video short, making them unusable since they are not adjustable, so replaced with the adjustable piston.
Adjustable piston has shims to do the adjusting with, easy to add and remove shims as needed. We send twice the amount of shims needed, keep the unused shims for future adjustments.
Great job
Thanks,
We now have a self adjusting tensioner that works great as a fix for eliminating excess chain slack in these engines.
Mr1jim how can I get my hands on that spacer for the hydraulic tensioner?
Mason,
Thank You,
The Spacers were difficulit for some guys to trim correctely, trimmed too short and no way to add to them so replaced them with the adjustabale piston at below link
Those parts along with product reviews can be found at www.martin-industries.net/
Best system for (self adjusting) is the self adjusting ratchet tensioner, they self adjust to always keep chain snug.
2nd best for (manual adjustment) is the Adjustable Piston, best to install these with a chain that is broke in.
Timing chains and sprockets continuously wear with increased hours on an engine, if using a manual adjusting system, engine will at some time in the future need further adjustments.
There are multiple videos on this chain slack noise on KA24E engines at:www.martin-industries.net/videos
If engine has had any milling done to head or block, this lowers camshaft by amount of material removed during milling process.
Milling retards valve timing on OHV engines, if its a concern, an adjustable cam sprocket will bring valves back factory setting.
Feel free to contact me anytime with questions.
Best Regards,
Jim
Thanks for the video .I have a 2006 frontier4.0 making the same noise,any advice would be helpful .
I got the Same problem ,did you fix your?.Thanks in advance for your response
Jim,...thanks for your Video ~ (Good Work)
*QUESTION* : Bout how much time would it take to change the Timing Chain on this Vehicle?
I have about 20 videos on this subject now and a self adjusting ratchet tensioner now available that is working best to control excess chain slack.
The standard labor charge shops are charging on this vehicle is right at about 11 hours. So figure on a very long day to do the job.
Nissan Factory Engine Manuals covering timing chain remove and replace can be found here: www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals
@@jamesmartin5370 Thanks James. Wow...I had a Maxima with a Front Wheel Drive motor that didn't take 11 hrs to change which was WAY MORE complicated than this motor. I'll let you know what happens...~
would a stronger spring in the tensioner fix the start up rattle noise?
I have not experimented with a stronger spring.
I know some people have and had success doing this, some guys have put a shim inside the piston to compress the spring slightly and have mentioned it has worked, but then again I have not done this myself.
My concern is a stronger spring has the possibility of applying too much pressure and causing other problems.
I know a guy who installed a stiffer spring abut a year ago, if you want to contact him, give me your email and I will send it to him in hopes he will respond to you with an update.
I do know that the stock spring applies about 12 lbs of force at the operating zone of the tensioner and that Century Spring Corp at at www.centuryspring.com has a spring, part number ''SC-429'' that will fit inside the tensioner and apply about 18 lbs of force but it will need to be shortened slightly to fit propertly. If you search around you might find a closer fit.
Since many people have this rattle even after a new chain kit install I think one of the problems may be that the backlash pressure from the valve springs being applied on the timing chain is part of the problem. So when the engine is shut down if there is back pressure on the hydraulic tensioner piston, it slowly gets pushed into its bore.
When this happens any oil behind the piston is squeezed out between the piston and cylinder wall, then at start up the hydraulic tensioner piston is in operation with out the help of any hydraulic pressure to dampen the pressures from the chain.
Similar to expecting a shock absorber to operate properly with out any fluid in it.
Where do we get the kit from?
Would of been nice if you gave us the example of how it sounded. What kind of rattle? Do you have an audible clip of what it sound so us who don't know it sounds like "before" removing everything and for those who don't know or able to remove all that cover so we can avoid being told some other BS lie from a mechanic?
I have about 14 videos on this subject,
video # 3 has the noise it makes th-cam.com/video/WJXI9-khTaA/w-d-xo.html
video # 10 shows what the chain looks like when it is making the noise.
Could you just use jb weld to kinda glue the tensioner out like that instead of using a spacer?
The piston needs to apply some additional pressure on the chain.
Piston needs to operate as intended when oil pressure builds up.
JB Weld would prevent piston from operating as intended once oil pressure is present.
Hello! At this time, we are changing the chain assembly with the pump on ka24e. In one video about ka24e in Spanish, the master explains that oil starvation is due to poor oil supply to the chain tensioner, where the oil passage groove on the engine block does not coincide with the tensioner groove and they have enough relative asymmetry. So, what do you think, is it worth drilling a groove for quick oil flow into the chain tensioner ?! Since it is necessary that the author of that video claims!?
To address above statement "oil passage groove on the engine block", to my knowledge, KA24E engine blocks don't not have an oil groove, only an oil hole.
I have seen many KA24E tensioners from different fabricators.
I agree with the author on the mis-match of the oil passage groove on some of the tensioners.
I have seen some KA24E tensioners with mis-matched oil grooves when placed on the engine block.
2nd = Position of cam shaft when engine is turned off.
If camshaft has forward pressure when engine is turned off this will put stress on the tensioner piston.
After several hours tensioner piston will eventually be pushed in, oil that was behind piston will bleed out, when engine is started it takes several seconds for oil pump to build oil pressure to tensioner, this could cause start up chain noise if there is excess chain slack.
If camshaft has backwards pressure when engine is turned off this will put stress on side of chain without the tensioner piston.
With no pressure on the tensioner piston, oil behind the piston will remain intact, when engine is started piston will hold chain snug until oil pump builds pressure.
@@Mr1jim "If camshaft has backwards pressure when engine is turned off this will put stress on side of chain without the tensioner piston.
With no pressu"
It turns out that you can do as you did, but since I have no way to find it for purchase, can I weld the washer onto the piston and put a 4.3-inch spring on the outside, since finding rings like yours is also a problem!
@@muhamedsadyk89 Welding a washer would work if you used shims to hold the piston in the out position.
It takes only 3/16" of piston sticking out/slack in chain to produce the start up chain rattle, so when adjusting the chain slack keep this in mind.
A new chain kit will wear fast at first then slow as chain breaks into the sprocket teeth.
So if using a manual adjusting method, after chain has broken in another manual adjustment may be needed.
I am not too sure if the spring on the outside would be the best option.
I have two items to help out with adjusting the chain.
The best one is the self adjusting ratchet tensioner.
They self adjusting and lock into position as the chain and sprocket teeth wear so never need to go back in to make manual adjustments.
They work good at keeping the chain snug at all times.
Can be purchased at: www.martin-industries.net/
Can bee seen at: th-cam.com/video/aClvx8gIQXI/w-d-xo.html
@@Mr1jim Thank you very clearly and clearly explained! It turns out 4/13 inch is quite the right size for the correct chain tension, right?! It would be possible to order, but the delivery will be very long) and the minder will not wait! Well, the main thing is now the principle of the chain tensioner operation has become clear.
@@muhamedsadyk89
No, 4/13 inch is not right size for correct chain tension.
To inspect for correct chain tension.
Rotate engine so that camshaft is in position that puts all chain slack on tensioner side of engine.
In my opinion, the tensioner piston should not be sticking out of tensioner, right size would be 0" to 1/32".
If tensioner piston is sticking out of tensioner 3/16" (4.7mm), this is usually where people can hear start up rattle.
As more hours are put on engine the sprocket teeth will wear and the piston will slowly start to stick out more, eventually excess chain slack will cause start up rattle.
The items I have available will prevent the piston from being pushed back into the tensioner so will control the excess chain slack and prevent the start up rattle.
When inspecting the chain for slack, it is better to have no slack.
Most OEM tensioners are not able to control excess chain slack on a cold startup.
If using an OEM tensioner, when tensioner piston extends out 3/16" (4.7mm), excess chain slack usually causes start up rattle.
Hope all goes well with the install..
Jim do u still have kits available
Yes, Available parts are at: www.martin-industries.net/
Mine was starting to have a little chain rattling, so I just bought a lq9 w/a 4l65e.. more then one way to fix that annoying chain clacking sound.😬
That's one nice sounding up-grade.
Where are you located i need this on my nissan make it all fresh
Were do you get the spacer what the part #
Spacers were replaced with the adjustable piston.
Parts can be found at: www.martin-industries.net/
Where you get the spacer ? I need one
Spacers were replaced with the Adjustable Piston.
The best Item for this issue is the Self Adjusting Ratchet Tensioner.
Items are available at www.martin-industries.net/
More videos on is subject at th-cam.com/users/Mr1jimvideos
Where did u order the spacer or find one thanks
I fabricate these, Email at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some information
Where can I go to order that spacer part?
Ben,
I currently have these in stock.
Send me an email at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some information to look over
Alright, thanks
can anyone give me some good advice on how to set the TPS on this engine
Here's a link to KA24E factory service manuals that you can match your model/year and go from there:
www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/
I jt wondering if the chaine is slack is it possible the vehicle losses power
Yes, if the chain has slack in it the camshaft will be out of time with the crankshaft and so the valves won't be opening and closing at the correct time in relation to the pistons.
In these engines, this can be felt when taking off from a dead stop and attempting to gain speed up to about 50 miles an hour or so, you will feel a lagging/lack of power from start up to about 2500 rpms, then, at about 2500 rpms you will be able to feel a power boost, but then when shifting to the next gear the loss of power will be there again up to about 2500 rpms. This low power band in the lower rpms is the result of a slack chain and valves being slightly out of time with crank shaft. If the chain is rattling at start up, chances are high the engine will have low power issues in the lower rpm range.
Self adjusting tensioner to date is the best fix for this issue.
@@jamesmartin5370 thanks very much this help I live in a place that have a lost of hills big hills an like going half way up it died second got to go to frist gear
Love the whole concept,where can I purchase the tensioner spacer?
Warren,
I have some tensioner spacer kits ready to ship.
Send me an Email at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some additional information.
make an ebay store to make things easier and more legit.
@@Mr1jim hello my name is Morris Tucker how much are your kits morristucker35@yahoo.com
where do put the wooden wedge? what does it do?
In the middle of the chain.
It jams the chain against both chain guides.
Purpose is to keep tensioner piston from popping out and prevents chain from dropping off the lower chain sprocket.
Its a safety measure.
i know this is off topic but does anyone know where to hook up the green wire on a tach in my 95 nissan pick up 4 cyl.
Different equipment may have different colored wires.
Common tach wire colors and what they go to are:
Green: Tachometer lead
White: 12v Switched (Illumination lead)
Red: 12v Constant Positive
Black: Ground
If your green wire is the Tachometer Lead, it needs to be connected to the negative side of the ignition coil
@@jamesmartin5370 all i have is a 2 wire plug
@@luci-fer250 I believe with two wires the case is ground, the two wires, one goes to the negative side of coil the other one is most likely for the light inside the tach.
Not sure of which color of wires are the coil and light, you will need to determine that.
@@jamesmartin5370 just for future reference it is the blue wire at the plug
perdo maestro como se pone la cadena de tiempo nissan modelo 2003 por favor dijame
No hablo español, entonces usaré el traductor de Google.
¿Qué motor tiene tu Nissan 2003?
KA24DE o VG33E?
if I'm all ready replacing every thing is it worth doing this when I'm all ready in there?
+Zack Burton Every new chain kit install is slightly different from each other on these engines for some reason.
You can evaluate the risk and decide if its is worth doing.
To evaluate if engine is at high risk of chain rattle, see the 4 steps below.
1. After kit is installed rotate engine so that chain slack is on hydraulic tensioner side of engine.
2. Inspect free piston travel.
3. If free piston travel is 1/8" or less, engine is at low risk of chain rattle.
4. If free piston travel is 1/4" or greater, engine is at high risk chain rattle.
+Mr1jim where can I get the spacer from?
Zack, I have some spacers and adjustable pistons for the KA24E, Send me an Email at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some information you can look over.
i have the same truck where can i buy a spacer like that
David,
I have these available see my video# 13 th-cam.com/video/71QRojQQuqw/w-d-xo.html
send me an email at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some information to look at.
Where do you buy the shim kit?
Jesús, que tienen algún listo para el envío , me envía un correo electrónico a jamesmart55@hotmail.com y te enviará alguna información sobre ellos se puede ver. Estoy utilizando el traductor de google así que espero que se traduce lo suficientemente bueno para entender
where are you located i need to do this to my 92 nissan hardbody
Located in Spokane Valley, Washington State.
These have been replaced with the adjustable piston, see at www.martin-industries.net/
More videos on this loose chain subject at: th-cam.com/users/Mr1jimvideos
where can I get the spacer at?
Jessie,
I have some spacers and adjustable pistons for the KA24E, that can be used to adjust excess slack out of the chain, Contact me at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some information on them.
How do I get this part
Parts available are at: www.martin-industries.net/
where do you get the spacer?
The spacer has been replaced by the Adjustable Piston, can be found at: www.martin-industries.net/
The Adjustable Piston is easier to install and more forgiving, it uses adjusting shims so much more easier to make adjustments.
The Adjustable Piston is a manual adjustment same as the spacer.
The best item is the self adjusting ratchet tensioner, its self adjusting so no need to make any future adjustments.
Hello Mr1jim I have a 97 nissan truck did you know where the thermostat go?
Its on the intake side of engine.
Mounted near the top on front timing chain cover.
Mounting cover has three bolts holding it.
thank you sir, is a little thermostat not as big as a ford f150 right?
the thermostat goes where the upper hose of the radiator ends????
Yes, I estimate thermostat to be about two inches in diameter.
Its mounted behind the power steering pump, its tough to see at first.
The thermostat housing cover is dome shaped, looks similar to most standard covers.
thank you sir I really appreciated!!!!! have a nice day.
Could someone tell me , my 95 rattles for about 2 seconds , should I be concerned ?
Yes, it is a concern: See my youtube video #12 and #14 at th-cam.com/users/Mr1jimvideos
If chain guide gets damaged, chain will cut a hole in the front timing chain cover and leak coolant in the oil.
If amount of coolant in oil is allowed to raise oil level high enough for the crank shaft to splash the oil, this will create air bubbles in the oil called (foaming), this condition will damage bearings.
Where can I get the extension kit?
+Renato Cordon
Renato,
I have some in stock, contact me at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some additional information.
Jim
+Mr1jim how much money do they cost?
+captain deadpool
Contact me at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some additional information.
They are about $25.00 for a kit at the moment.
Price is subject to changes.
Jim
My 1996 2.4l rattles bad at startup. I need a whole timing kit, I believe.
I believe it was Nissan's original intent to change the chains at a major engine overhaul, since they don't have a recommended interval change out listed for these timing chains.
The self adjusting ratchet tensioner is the best item I have seen for this start up rattle issue so far.
If you have .3 play, you need new sprockets and chain at best and more likely a rebuild motor. If you are doing this just because you don't like start up noise, just turn the radio on because it will do the same thing.
LOL,
Yes, I agree, the radio will make things seem better for a while.
This engine only had chain noise at start up.
alguien puede alludarme mi nissan pickup modelo 97 motor ka24 tiembla mucho le cambie la cadena del tiempo pero sigue temblando gracias
Lo siento, no hablo español. Usaré el Traductor de Google. A menos que pueda corresponder en inglés. Si el motor está temblando, puede ser un disparo erróneo, compruebe si hay una bujía o un cable de bujía defectuosos. También compruebe si hay un inyector de combustible defectuoso. Inspeccione la tapa del distribuidor para detectar grietas.
Actually you need to change the title to 90-97 KA24E. They still used the Z24i in 89.
Yes Z24i was used in 89 in some vehicles.
In 89 the KA24E was introduced in some of the 240SX, Pintara, and Axxess & Prairie vehicles.
It was a gradual change over on selected vehicles.
Disculpe me seria tan amable de darme la medida exacta del buje muchas gracias 👍
Estos han sido reemplazados por el pistón ajustable.
Ver en Martin-Industries.net www.martin-industries.net/
OD del pistón en estos son .570 "
@@jamesmartin5370 muchas gracias por su información saludos cordiales desde Michoacan,Mexico
great job, i have a 97 Nissan Xe great truck, 5 speed love driving it, i get rattle at start up, last about 3 secs, should i worry about it? I have 179+K miles on it
+Ernst Hin
Ernst,
My 97 as well rattled for several years until I finally figured out what it was and fixed it, fortunately I had no real damage caused from the slack chain.
Some people let them rattle for years with no problems, yet other people experience problems like the drivers side guide breaking, bent valves due to chain jumping teeth. Everyone needs to determine the possible risk and decide from there.
From my perspective, I would fix it, a new chain kit or some type of spacer to adjust the excessive slack out of the chain is less expensive than damage others have experienced associated with start up rattle from a slack chain.
Here's several youtube users who have left comments that experienced damage from a slack chain99600F4th-cam.com/video/cYr6ajm4rGs/w-d-xo.html
Keelerth-cam.com/users/keeler23
Jeremy Riceth-cam.com/channels/Ew4lEGsbKsaLAmHF5l_HyA.html
You can go to their youtube channel, contact them, I am sure they will be willing to share their start up rattle experiences.
thanks!
squidward is that you??
How can I get a spacer
Parts available can be found at: www.martin-industries.net/
Spacers have been replaced with the Adjustable Piston which performs same function and is more forgiving when making adjustments.
My chain makes noise like that and it’s all the time that the engine is running it won’t stop
Where do u get the spacer
Casey,
I currently have these in stock.
Send me an email at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some information to look over.
Mr1jim
@@Mr1jim still have spacers?
Yes, email me at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some information to look at.
👍
I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier I have had a noise for years that last at startup
+Vicki Winn Which engine do you have in yours? The 2006 Frontier used the 2.5 L 4-cylinder and the 4.0 L V6
+Mr1jim I am checking on this info I think it is 2.5L 4 V
+Vicki Winn I found Nissan service bulletin, (NTB09-128) it relates to chain noise in all engines used in the Frontier for your vehicle, it says to Replace both upper secondary chains, and also both tensioner shoes. It seems that the plastic shoes Nissan used are not holding up to the action and stress the chain is applying on them. I don’t know if the new shoes are any better than the originals? It seems that the plastic shoes wear down rapidly, at about 30,000 miles in some engines from the chain and once wore out the chain rubs on the metal tensioner piston. If you are concerned about engine damage from the rattle you could have your oil tested by Blackstone www.blackstone-labs.com/ this will tell you if there is any undue metal fragments being created from the rattling you are hearing.
D21 misfire once per 1.5 seconds....at 2000 rpm....in nuetral..... OeM injectors Where replaced 2 years ago as a match set I don't know what's wrong with it....
Its possible its related to fuel to air mixture.
Air Temp Sensor, Mass Air Flow Sensor, and Throttle Position Sensor all send an electrical signal to the computer.
Computer averages voltages from these three sensors and adjusts distributor timing and fuel to keep engine running smooth.
The TPS is attached to the butterfly valve shaft in throttle body.
The TPS is an electrical rheostat and starts out at a low voltage, as you step on gas pedal the butterfly valve opens to allow more air to enter engine.
The TPS increases voltage sent to computer as butterfly valve opens.
At the same time the Mass Air Flow Sensor detects the increased volume of air and increases its voltage to computer.
All in all the three sensors all need to work within certain parameters or the air to fuel mixture and or timing will be off and engine will not perform as designed.
The TPS can be tested with an Ohm meter.
If the TPS is removed or a new one installed, it needs to be calibrated with an Ohm meter before it is secured in position so it will be sending correct voltage to computer.
Also should check fuel pressure at fuel rail and don't rule out spark plugs.
Maybe first pull plug wires one at a time to see if you can determine if its the same cylinder doing the misfire then move forward from there.
With this work with a 99 motor
Yes, it will work on all KA24Es
1993 hard body Nissan pick up truck putting in distributor see v6
i have rattling rockers replaced the timing chain first it was talking crap to me.
Some of these engines have had the exhaust side chain guide eaten apart from the chain.
In some cases the small plastic particles from the plastic guide are small enough to make it through the oil pump, then they may plug the oil filter media.
If this happens, the oil filter bypass valve will open and some of the plastic particles will move through the engine via the oil journals.
If they make to the hydraulic lifters, they may get stuck there and cause oil starved rattling lifters.
Were they rattling before you changed out the chain?
@@jamesmartin5370 mine doesnt have lifters (overhead cam) and i also replaced the guides which were only grooved oil is getting up top took off valve cover to see (friend got mad and oily) felt rockers and they are worn out along with the shafts
@@luci-fer250 These engines came stock with rockers that have non adjustable hydraulic lifters built into them.
Someone must have put in mechanical rockers on yours, if so there will be an adjustment bolt on the end of them.
Sounds like it might be time for new rockers and maybe shafts as well.
@@jamesmartin5370 NOT!!!!! These overhead cam engines have non adjustable rockers only. one side of the rocker is on the camshaft the other end on the valve spring as the engine rotates the camshaft turns lifting up the rocker therefore pushing down on the valve spring opening the valve...if it had lifters the camshaft would have to be below them pushing up on a lifter with a pushrod since this engine does not have lifters the cam and rockers are on top henceforth overhead cam.
I fixed my truck. took it to the crusher I think I got it back it's a toaster that rattles and makes the same noise
Mine has 294k only thing that has been replaced is the water pump watching the videos to change the timing chain tomorrow
Whow,
Thats a good track record, mines got about 250,000 miles.
So far only thing on engine I have replaced is timing chain tensioner.
I changed it out to a self adjusting ratchet tensioner, it increased the low rpm power.
I have talked to people with 400,000 and 500,000 miles on them and still running smooth, at 500,000 they smoke a little bit.
In my opinion these are some of the most dependable rigs around once the timing chain rattle is taken care of.
No instrument panel lights but truck will start with battery charged alternator new . fuses new
Check out the below link, sounds like there are possible problems near the factory radio harness? There's a wire in there that controls the gauge lights.
www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6556
U guys really need to just go ahead and replace the timing chain in y'all's vehicles. I just did a 22r nearly identical to this. It took several hours and I did it without pulling the head. Just do the whole job
I think you are working in the wrong side. The problem is in the point the piston touch the guide., Just put somthing in that part of the guide. I just replace the spreeng and workis. good for me in a video one guy say the problem is in the oil hole. In the tenssioner. ( dont macht whit the one in the ingine block. ) that is the real problem becouse the new tensioners come difernt in that area. ,
Thanks, I'll look in to that next time pull the timing chain cover off.
No seas tacaño men y cómprale el kit dela cadena de distribución
Sin embargo, debe entender lo mejor para instalar un nuevo kit en el distribuidor.
El nuevo kit del distribuidor no siempre arregla el ruido de arranque de la cadena de distribución.
Si el ruido de arranque de la cadena de distribución no es fijo, la falla del motor ocurrirá.
Algien mepuede alludar mi nissan1997 prende por segudo y se apaga y Los nomas estarea
No estoy seguro si puedo ayudar, no hablo español. Uso Google Translator para escribir esto, el inglés es más fácil para mí.
Parece que el motor se está cortando, corre y luego se apaga.
Si funciona por un tiempo, luego se apaga.
¿Ha comprobado una gran cantidad de gases de escape que provienen del tubo de escape? Si el convertidor catalítico está obstruido, esto puede hacer que el motor funcione y luego detenerse.
Yeah that’s not how I’m going to fix my rattle in my Nissan 720
I had a 720, mine had the Z24i engine, that was a great engine, always had lots of power even at 300.000 miles it ran smooth as the day we bought it, hang on to it, well designed engine.
The 720 had a different chain set up, slack side guide can be adjusted manually through the valve cover to eliminate excess chain slack.
The tensioner is completely different as well.
I am now fabricating a self adjusting ratchet tensioner for these that are working good, a lot of guys with KA24Es are ending up with chain rattle a week or so after new chain job.
Thanks for the comment.
U
Oil pumps failing
Installed a new oil pump in this rig in an attempt to solve the chain noise, it made no difference.
@@Mr1jim yeah, The mechanic who replaced the timing set in my mothers never had an issue, but car was 15 yrs old. After the replacement it started slapping a few years after. The mechanic did a horrible job sealing the cover, the engines a mess.
@@JCnordic2983 This is typical of most of these engines.
If head was removed and any milling was done, the material removed during milling on these over head cam engines increases chances of chain rattle because when head is bolted back to block, cam shaft ends up being lower so chain has a slight amount of extra chain slack.
@@Mr1jim true, they didn't do the cylinder head just the timing chain. I'm going to get a straight edge and Mic it for ..02 or less.
Weak engine, ka24de better and more torque.
Thank You for the comment Kennedy,
Some items that can improve torque in the KA24E are:
Installing a self adjustable ratchet tensioner, increases low RPM torque in these engines from idle to about 2500 rpms.
If head or block have been milled in these, engine will end up being weak as you say, milling lowers camshaft, end result is valve timing is slightly retarded.
This can be solved by installing an adjustable cam sprocket to advance camshaft timing where it was before the milling process was done.
A lot of KA24DE owners are using these parts, including the self adjusting ratchet tensioners and are reporting positive results.