What is a DLP 3D Printer - Anycubic Photon D2 Review for Miniature Printers & Painters
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
- Soooo, What exactly is a DLP Printer and what benefit does DLP have over MSLA LCD 3d printers? Well, here's my learning from my time with the Photon D2 - the direct follow-up to the Anycubic Photon Ultra. and whilst I normally print Warhammer Miniatures. today I'm focusing on miniatures from OnePageRules instead.
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00:00 - Intro
00:24 - Pop Quiz
01:18 - Photon D2 Negatives
01:50 - Photon D2 vs Photon Ultra
03:18 - 2k vs 4k vs 8k vs DLP
03:43 - DLP vs LCD
04:33 - DLP Misconceptions
05:38 - Photon D2 DLP Benefits
06:04 - Photon D2 vs Sonic Mini 8k
07:00 - 8k vs DLP Resin
07:52 - Dealing with Layer and Voxel Lines
08:27 - DLP Print Accuracy
18:47 - Anycubic DLP Craftsman Resin
09:36 - Printing Large Models
10:01 - Benefits of DL Printers
11:26 - Photon Ultra Price & Spec
12:06 - Conclusion
12:52 - Photon D2 Summary
13:10 - Thanks & Close - เกม
![Anycubic Photon D2 DLP 3d resin printer [HONEST REVIEW]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q-OoGQfG2wY/mqdefault.jpg)
Buy the Photon D2 here: geni.us/PhotonUltra
3D Printer Cleaning Mat: geni.us/3DPrinterCleaningMat (This and all Amazon links in our video description are affiliate links. Clicking these and making any purchase will earn us a commission from Amazon at no cost to you)
This Video is part of our series looking for the Best 3D printer for Miniatures; www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/the-best-3d-printer-for-miniatures-models/
Get any printer working easily with the Photonsters XP Range Finder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:6023738 (watch my video for full instructions th-cam.com/video/Gm0-z971tgY/w-d-xo.html)
Join this channel to get access to perks:
th-cam.com/channels/_9Jsf3SP8aMJgn0xv5jHjA.htmljoin
Buy WARGAMER - The best Resin for Miniatures yesthats3dprinted.com/pages/wargamer?ref=FauxHammer
My only gripe about the D2 is the build plate size, the extra 4cm I get from my Saturn allows me to print giant mechs. Once its as large as a Saturn I will be in the market for a DLP .
Yeah, there is that. As a mini printer I print mostly rank and file and the odd vehicle or monster. This is fine for that.
But the Saturn build size is appealing
No doubt they will have a bigger one in 6-8months 👍
What do you set your settings for the Saturn. I don’t get great prints with it
@@InitiallyJB I used Atlas grey settings and modified them to suit the Resin. The numbers look a bit extreme but the rate of success is extremely high. Saturn has a Two Speed process going on in the background, so the speed setting may look fast but its not. Sunlu Grey - Lychee Slicer - Burn In Layers: Number of layers = 10, Exposure Time = 35, Transition Layer count = 20, Light of delay = 1, Lift Distance = 8, Lift Speed = 45 Normal Layers: Layer Height/Thickness = 50um, Light Off Delay = 1,Exposure Time = 3.8, Lift Distance = 8, Speed: Lift Speed = 200, Retract Speed = 150
@@lordnovas thanks so do you use chitubox at all or do you convert from lychee with settings
That video review is just golden. Good information and a direct and honest critique. I'm getting my D2 this spring for sure!!!
Thanks so much
nice review, watched VOG's review as well which began to sway me to the D2, your review along side that has pretty much settled it, a DLP will be my next printer
I watched VOGs vid too after I filmed mine. Was good see see we are saying similar things
I'm sold. I'm getting the D2 and printing the father I never had.
Yeah…. Ohhhhhh
Great video Man. Quality of your vids has really stepped it up.
Thanks so much, got a lot of guidance from Luke at GEEK gaming
I was looking to buy the D2 and found that this video came out 25 minutes ago, what a coincidence!
Did you buy one? (Click my links, lol)
Hi...I'm Carlo and I'm following you from Italy...Florence. I recently approached resin 3D printing... and I must say you're great!!!! You are very clear and precise and answer all the questions I would like to ask you !!!! You are a big help and thank you very much!!!
Thanks so Kindly, and may I say, Florence, in my opinion, is the most beautiful city on our whole planet!!!
@@FauxHammer 🙏🙏🙏 many tanks!!!!
Thanx for your video reviews. They're very thorough. For me it will always come down to price. Last November I bought an Anycubic Mono 4K because it was the best bang for my buck (found it for $150 back then). Now that I want to get something "better", I was originally going to order the D2 yet the new mini 8K-S right now has an very attractive price which I just cannot let pass. Anyhow, Keep up the good work man!!!!
yeah, it's no competition now at this price point.
Fantastic review! Between you and VOG... The best, most honest/objective 3D printer reviews out there! I just wish I'd waited another 4 months before pulling the trigger on the Sonic Mini-8K that I bought. It's a great printer, but I think in terms of lifespan, the D2 is so much better. I look forward to the next step up in DLP resolution, not sure it'll ever happen (does it really need a smaller "pixel" size than what the D2 has?), but it'll be pretty spectacular if they do make that jump.
Considering how bad the D2 prints seem to look, with all those lines, it definitely needs it.
Thanks! And sorry fir my late reply.
And yeah, it needs to be smaller, when you zoom right in, you can see those lines and if you are painting models, they can show.
@@FauxHammer No worries! Thanks for the reply...
I really enjoy you reviews and videos
Torn between the DLP and Anycubic Photon m3 Premium. I hope Anycubic build an up graded DLP with some added features from the premium M3 that made me choose it. I figure ill be ready in two years and a emprove d2.
Just subscribed to your channel thanks to this review. I've been looking to upgrade from my Mono X 4K. It gives decent results, and I got it for a good deal. But want something that offers sharper details on minis, as it just makes them easier to paint. Seems like the D2 fits that bill nicely. Though think I'll wait to see what Elegoo's new DLP printer looks like before deciding for sure. Cheers
Excellent video !! Thanks 👍
Thanks fir the comment
Massive bump in production quality - audio and visuals are crisp - Congratz. Much more enjoyable watch (also a good review) 😀
Thanks so much, still a few issues in here - but I think I've broke the back in it. Some of this was filmed with my new camera gear, some of it is legacy. going forward it'll all be much better.
Regarding the USB port placement: you can buy a short usb extension cable with a right angled plug for a couple of dollars, then you can place you usb anywhere you like.
Good review man
Thanks so much, I’ve not had any hate test, which is odd considering my last videos got hated and I’ve said things in this about the Mini8k that will upset some people.
very nice video explaining the differences, might get one of these next upgrade deeper recesses/sharpness nicer for small minis, hoping Elegoo will go down this route with a DLP offering as I've kinda fallen into brand loyalty after being happy with all My Elegoo purchases and the better customer support response compared to Anycubics past reputation for poor customer support.
Just gonna leave this here 😉
www.fauxhammer.com/3d-printing/elegoo-mars-4-dlp-resin-printer-first-details/
Hi Ross, thanks for another well-thought out review. I didn’t know anything about DLP resin printers before today!
How easy to sand those less-brittle DLP prints? Sometimes if the material is too ductile, it is a real pain to sand it.
My hobby is scale modelling, your planes and mechs. I wonder if the sharpness from DLP printing, can give sharper edges and corners, and straighter lines and planes? That’s what we really crave for. Thanks .
Sanding resin is pretty easy with the right tools. Id recommend sanding sticks or foam nail buffers, both are makeup products so readily available. However, always use water when you do this as resin dust is highly carcinogenic and very easy to inhale.
Does anyone know where I can see examples of painted DLP miniatures? I like all the benefits of DLP, but I need to see figures actually painted to make final judgement.
I do plan to do macro photography with them, but not for competition or anything high end.
Great review!
Thanks for the great review, very helpful for a first time buyer :)
I have a question though: the best printer for miniatures in your opinion is the Photon Ultra, which even outperforms the Sonic Mini 8k. On the other hand, the Photon D2 is on the top of your list. I am now standing between these two Photon models and wonder which one I should buy? Does the recommendation in the introduction take precedence over the recommendation in the list?
I would be very grateful for an answer! Thank you very much :)
As I said on the other comment, the D2 is just an ullpgraded ultra, but if you can grab the ultra at a bargain price. Do that
@@FauxHammer thank you very much :) especially for taking the time to reply. Your videos have a great quality and are really educational. The perspective of the gaming enthusiast is quite up my alley. Hope to see more from you in the future and all the best from Berlin!
Mine just came this morning! I'm most excited because of the increased build size. The Ultra is quite dainty.
How are you finding it?
@@FauxHammer it's fantastic. These are incredible printers. What a time to be alive!
@@1nePercentJuice so good right! I remember cracking out the Ultra having used the Photon S before it and my jaw hit the floor!
@@FauxHammer me too man. I started with a Photon Mono X for my first printer and it's incomparable. The quality I'm getting in 32mm on these DLP printers is almost like magic. We're so lucky to be alive in times like these.
@@1nePercentJuice It's only gonna get better too! I honestly think we have almost piqed on quality. When we get an 8k projector in a similar print form factor to this, we are there, that;s it, done finito. but at this point, the resin makes a lot of difference.
Have they resolved the zoom issue, or is that a hardware limitation?
I am using the D2 for jewelry. I started 3d printing about 9 years ago went from a CNC mill to a to a Solus which used a DLP projector for its light source set in front of the printer. It was super small and was at that time around $5k very hard to use and there just wasn't much info on 3d printers at that time. Then the original Phrozen Shuffle came out and was pretty good for many things since then they just keep getting better and better. I have had a couple 4K and got fed up with dealing with the LCD screens that burn out and when you replace them, they still won't work. So that said the D2 is great, it even works very well with direct castable resins (which supporting is the problem with most of them esp wax based). Love this D2 Printer thanks for the video.
yeah it's great on those more tenacious resins because you can ramp the exposure right up and not get that outward LCD bleed you get from other printers.
yes, i suffered with shuffle 4k,the screen very short life -less than 100hour used.Can you tell the D2 are same print quality to the solus ?,because i cant afford the solus
I want to get into this. Do the voxel lines affect the final product when the jewelry is casted?
Thanks
@@UnratedPlayer21 Litle late to the party but yes. Aliasing lines will get printed on the metal cast, and when inside intricated parts, is a pain because we need to sand that surface to make it flat. Ideally we want the metal cast to cmoe as perfect as possible to just sand it with a very high sand number and polish it on tumbler ( in aperfect world )
I got the D2 after adding your review. It destroyed 3 FEPs on the first 3 prints using AnyCubic resin, AnyCubic settings, and the AnyCubic R_E_R_F file for the D2. I confirmed that the firmware is up-to-date too. Not sure if i got a dud, or if there's a setting that's off. Tech support is useless. They keep saying to adjust my settings and everything will be fine. Is anyone else having trouble with the FEP on the D2?
Fantastic video. My question is how bad are the fumes? I do not have have a basement and our home office is worked in every day.
Honestly I can't tell, but I've gone noseblind now. really depends on the resin. I don;t notcie anything off this but the original standard resin AC did gave me a headache
For just display painting and up to 75mm models, so material durability/flex isn’t a factor, and just in smoothness of print and accuracy of detail would you still go with the D2?
Oooh, good question. So if I were to want a pro painter to show off my new minis, or I were a competition entrant. I’d want smooth over anything else. So I’d get the 8k, but I’d also expect that when removing parts from supports, there would be cleanup to do. Like shaving down and refilling pick marks, even a touch of resculpting some finer details with putty. But for the lack of sharpness a pro painter would redefine recesses with paint.
phrozen3d.com/pages/mini-8k-preorder?aff=176
Crisper edges aren't worth much when the entire model looks like it has wood-grain to me. The D2 is pretty easy to spot, because its consistently marred by the obvious print lines, for better or worse. And I haven't really seen any examples of it being clearly more detailed - certainly not in a way notable enough to not be far outweighed by those details being jagged due to the layer lines. But curious to see more comparisons.
They don't actually look crisper to me. At 6:26 the hair strands stand out more on the right model than the left (D2) imo. At best you could call it even overall with a big fat L on the print lines for the D2 vs a 8k LCD.
It’s sharpness vs smoothness. The D2 is generally easier to use as you can ramp up the layer exposure time without much overexposure bloat
What slicer are you using? I have lychee as well as chitubox and the max AA level is 8 on each and Lychee doesn't seem to have a "image blur" setting. I have a photon Ultra and may Update to the D2. Also i'm really confused as to how you got that resin that flexible.
Also what is your post print process? I have a wash and cure and usually was for 3 mins in Denatured alcohol and then cure for 90 secs on each side.
I use lychee to support, then export the STL and slice in Chitubox. Had far too many issues with lychee
Hello mate. Ive got a D2, and I love it. However I have a few minor problems im struggling with. I think the builds are sticking abit to the FEP, and the miniatures are coming out rather fragile. Im using DLP craftman resin and im otherwise very happy with the results. The miniatures looks absolutely fantastic. But? Do you have any advise on solving My minor problems? I would like to be able to use my models for gaming, but right now they are abit too brittle.
Cheers mate and thank you very much for your excellent channel.
Thomas
What's your exposure time? How long are you curing the model in UV light? What kind of UV light are you using? (Sun? Wash n Cure?) Too long of a cure time will make it brittle. Could also try mixing some Siraya Tech Tenacious (15 to 25%) to give it much more flexibility.
Great video mate, I think you've sold me. I will be looking at DLP for my next upgrade. Can I just ask, having found my favourite resin in Siraya Tech Fast - my experience with the Anycubic resin is that it absolutley stinks. How does the DLP Craftsman resin rate? Will I need to consider additional ventillation if I use this machine/resin?
Hey man, that’s awesome glad to give the advice.
I’ve not used Syrayatech though many people recommend it.
I can imagine it will carry its existing proporties but the result will be sharper than it is in other printers.
I really should contact Syraya and ask for samples
If resin smells, resin smells, but unlike units with fans in, I can only smell this one when I remove the lid. So take usual safety precautions but whilst printing, it’s far less noticeable
thanks for the kind words. Fast will work fine on Anycubic D2 DLP.
@@sirayatech2 well, if you’ll like us to show it off, please feel free to get in touch and we. An use it in future vids.
Great video
Thanks!
8:04 could please clarify? does AA and blur significantly reduce Voxel and layer lines or not? you commented bellow that "The simple breakdown is the D2 is sharper, but more visible layer lines". So what is it? Will I get better results and less voxel lines than the Anycubic Mono 4K? (using max AA and blur).
Thanks for the excellent review.
So, LCD printers have some roundness to teh edges anyway, so once you add image blur and AA to those it will soften them. But the sharp edges are not as sharp.
You can significantly soften the edges on the DLP printers with AA and blur, but due to the sharpness, they are still more precieveable than an LCD printer. After paint however. IMHO indistuinguishable on both, but I siuppose that depends on how heavy you paint.
When comparing to the mono 4k specifically, I;d say this is equal to the Mars 3 pro and Phrozen Mini4k at 35um. those 3 printers are arguabley the best you can get for a gaming mini on an LCD printer, anything I've seen with higher resolution requires specific resins, and those resins are usually more brittle to the point of not being as useful for gaming. At least until someone finds a way to make a softer version of those high-res resins. if you print on something like the Mini 8k with a softer resin, the results are comparable to one of these 4k printers.
So the only way to get more detail in a softer resin is with a more direct cure. So DLP it is.
You want higher detail, no percieveable layer lines, but brittle? get the mini 8k
You want higher detail flexible miniatures but slightly more noticeable layer lines, get the D2
You don;t want higher detail and want a flexible model with no percieveable layer lines, stick with what you have.
sorry, voxel lines, not layer lines
@@FauxHammer wow... I am so grateful you took the time to answer my question extensively. thank you so much. I liked and subscribed.
@@walterrldias Woah, woah, WOAH!
You weren't already subbed? I take my answer back! ;) lol
@@FauxHammer I am like saint thomas! hahah.... good job.
so maybe i missed it in the video but i have the photon mono X right now. Does the D2 take a different resin? or will the regular anycubic resin i've been using for my photon mono x work with the d2? thanks!
nope, you can still use teh same resin, the light emitted is on the same wavelength.
@@FauxHammer Sweet! thanks for taking your time to answer my question!
Another option to anti aliasing is toggling pixels, though this will depend on the display
DLP is the Future. Still waiting for a 4K DLP. The size of the voxels are still HUGE.
I think if we get that it would be perfect, but a while off I imagine. Mobile phones drive lcd tech improvements. Not sure if the projector space has such drive
@@FauxHammer we have been getting 4k short throw projector as well nowadays, i don't know how relevant that is for UV DLP though
@@aronseptianto8142 fine if you have a 60” vat lol
The flexibility shown here is due to the dlp Craftsman resin?
If yes . What's the difference if you use it in a LCD printer? Does it lose the flexibility properties?
Another question.
I use though resin flexible from anycubic is this one more resistant and flexible that that one?.
yes the DLP Craftsman resin has some flexibility which I really like. But I haven't tried one from Anycubic called Tough Flexible.
That thing you said, that D2 can zoom in and out.. that is actually kinda true, BUT it is not automatic nor on a software level, you can physically modify printer itself (move lenses, refocus, nothing major, well, depending on a printer construction), and zoom in, having same resolution on a smaller surface, well, you would have it permanently.
yeah, i spoke to Anycubic, they confirmed this. it was just a theory that didn't pan out.
Thanks the best walkthrough among dozens of videos Ive seen. Im not going to do miniatures only, and im torn between 3 models, i would really appreciate your take on my choices. I was thinking of the Saturn 2 as the "expensive" one, and the alternatives would be Mars 3Pro and Photon Mono 4k. Regards/Eddie
So. I;d get the Mars 3 pro over the Mini 4k, same display resolution on both, but the Mars 3 is slightly larger and cheaper.
The saturn 2 is an upgrade to both, about half way between these 2 printers and the mini 8k in terms of print resolution. in fact it's eactly half way between.
It;s a lot larger too so if you can stretch to it, it would be my choice.
@@FauxHammer Thanks, then I got my choice between a smaller and bigger alternative. My hesitation investing in the “pricier” as a newbie was newer better models seem to come so fast in this sector. But if i take the Mars it will take time before i upgrade and i will probably miss having a bigger plate. Many thanks for taking the time to answer my question. Regards/E
If you choose between Mars 3 and Mono 4k, they both have the same pixel size (35 micron) and similar build volume, but Mars 3 has working anti aliasing (AA) out of the box while Mono 4k still doesn't...
I have both...
@@P1x3lMagic many thanks for your input. this morning i ordered the satun 2, finally. It was panful to pay that extra and to not choose the mars but i felt that i will need that extra space. Regards .
@@houseoflatin
Saturn 2 is excellent choice indeed being first affordable printer with big printing volume and 8k (28.5 micron) accuracy.
Don't forget to buy washing/curing station of the same size 😉
I looking for the best 3D printer to print Rims for a 1:64 scale cars, so which one do u recommends me?
1:64 scale? Any if the modern. Ones.
Mars 3, photon mono 4K or Phrozen mini 4K will do.
Or if you can afford it. Saturn 8& or Saturn 2, photon m3 premium or phrozen mighty 8k
Then you can print the whole car
How do you guys go with pre supported models on this printer? I get a lot of fails
Absolutely fine. But pre-supported doesn’t always mean well supported.
Try the One page rules free starter set, if that prints then you know the issue is the supports on other prints. If it doesn’t print those, it’s your settings
I just purchased one of these and was curious if you could share your settings. I am a very new user so this would help immensely. Also I loved your video and it was the reason why I decided to go with this vs the mono series. Any help would be appreciated and thanks!
Thanks, but honestly I can tell you are new becasue my settnsg will not help you.
You need to do your own exposure tests. because the temp/humidity of your environment. have a look how to run exposure finder tests and dial in your settings.
i wish I could help, but this isn;t how it works I'm afraid
@@FauxHammer That's ok, I got some settings from another channel to "default" my machine, and have a place to start from and then "dial" in as your saying. I realize that environment might have some to do with the settings however a ballpark is all I was looking for, but thanks anyways! Cheers
@@markzimmer2820 perfect you’ve got it! Yeah I kind of purposely avoid showing settings. I change them frequently and it often just breeds hateful comments telling me what is too high/low and how I’m wrong in some way.
New people may also try them and get bad results and that reflects on me and my channel.
Glad you have your starting point.
I really should do a video on this
Hi, at what temperature can it print, you mentioned twice at different temperatures, can it be used in a cold room at 0 degrees? Winter is coming, I don't mean to keep him in the house
I’ve not tested at it’s lowest I’m afraid. If it’s at 0, there’s a chance your resin could freeze. (Though I haven’t tested this) You want it at the very least above 7-10 degrees. But even then you may struggle.
Do you use the presupported stls from one page rules? Or do you support then yourself?
I always use their pre supported models, their supports are brilliant, especially the newer sculpts
@@FauxHammer Thanks for replying! I think the issue was something I was doing in chitubox. I switched to lychee and now I have perfect prints!
I work with jewelry, we need 3d of a high level of detail, with as few print layer marks as possible. Is the Anycubic Photon D2 the best choice so far? or do you recommend choosing a Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K or ELEGOO SATURN 2 8K MONO LCD
Honestly fir your application, I’m unsure. At that scale in jewellery how much would the voxelisation lines show and how much of that would disappear when precious metals are polished?
If you want to aboid any voxel lines the stay clear of the D2.
The Mini8k currently has the best printing resolution of any consumer grade printer.
Saturn 2, like the Mighty 8k and the M3 premium are close in terms of print quality, so you’ll be hard pressed to tell on models that there would be a difference.
But the benefit if these printers over the mini 8k is print area being larger.
@@FauxHammer Late to the convo but just FYI, yes voxel lines get printed into the precious metal, need to be sanded, and is not a big deal if the design is simple, but when the design has more detail and intricated surfaces, then the problem is a pain, so we constantly look to get rid of those lines, so the metal just come smooth and we can go straight up to mayba a quick high number sanding and then tumbler polishing, then stone setting, final polishing, plating if applicable and go.. So the voxel lines can delay the process, even make it imposible for some high end designs
I have some test in phrozen acua 8k and the results is so awesome, photon d2 the best
Can you share a link to your results at all please?
The merits of DLP over LCD are clear, but I have a use-case for which I'd like to get your thoughts on... I am planning to 3D print parts for a musical instrument where the parts need to fit seamlessly together. For a DLP printer such as on the D2 - are the horizontal pixel dimensions exactly identical across the print bed (that is, going from the center to the outer edges)? On an LCD resin printer they should by definition remain uniform, but being that DLP involves optical projection there is the potential issue of aberration on printed content near the edges. What are your thoughts on this?
I honestly don’t know I’m afraid. I’ve not tested to that degree. I’ve not personally seen such degradation in outer edge prints to suggest this is the case. Even in my few tests everything appeared solid
But I have seen other channels suggest this but never any direct vid eve to support the claim
DLP printers until now have been used in the medical and dental fields to make things where every nanometer of fit counts, and even small flaws result in a part being binned. It should be massively more precise than an LCD, from what I know. So in that use case, where precision fit is vital, a DLP will be superior.
@@alertedcoyote7892 Great point. I imagine the DLP printers used in medical and dental fields are the kind that are considerably more expensive and exacting than consumer grade printers like the D2. I suspect that it would measure up quite well to the high-end DLP printers in this regard.
Great review I just wish they made this printer in a larger format, I just picked up the mega 8k because I normally scale up miniatures as center pieces so I need printers that can print big!!
I must say though compared to the Jupiter, the m3 max and the saturn 2 8k the prints from the mega 8k look the sharpest and I'm just using sunlu dark grey abs resin..
You got a Mega 8k!!!!! Unles syou mean Mighty, I'm so jealous!
@@FauxHammer Yer it says mega 8k on the front and it's huge, the seller only lived about 1hrs drive from me so I got free delivery as well..
I'm just waiting on a 22h test print to make sure there's no problems like stepping, z wobble or layer shifting..
Fingers crossed I got a bargain 🤞🙃
@@printitpaintit.2436 it’s the one I want. I do t need it at all. But I want it so bad
I'd love a DLP printer, but I need something with a 13"+ screen for large scale printing.
It would also be great if they stop making the screens rectangle and made squares.
I don't see them releasing that any time soon.
no i think it's a way off. the screens are mostly carryover from the mobile industry, which is why they are what they are,
Many cudos for your video.I think you didn't mention the true benefit buying a dlp printer:the speed!!!
Honestly, I don’t and it any faster than a modern lcd printer
Did you really buy your D2 from Geni in the US? Seems I can only find it in the UK from 3D Jake but the D2 is £122.00 more expensive that the Sonic Mini 8k!
Geni in the US? I got it directly off Anycubic.
One of the first things I look at for prospective printer upgrades is the light and lens system, followed by the UI and the available slicers (partial to Lychee and really, Really not keen on Chitu for reasons; mostly involving being locked in to proprietary crap). The light source is really at the heart of the printer, with the screen type a close second. You can have an average screen, lets say a 4k midsize for instance, but the light source and its inherent lens system can make or break the quality of the prints. My three year old Uniz has a fantastic collimated lens system that for all intent and purposes eliminates grid issues with the screen, so much so that when the lead screw decided to crap out recently, I ended up fixing it versus upgrading (for the time being).
DLP has been around for several years in industrial high end printers, but way WAY out of reach for the consumer market. They have active cooling, dedicated fill tanks, were on average about the size of an office paper printer, etc., but the lamps only lasted about 500 hours and were a common maintenance item.
Anycubic going with an albeit too small for my needs DLP was interesting at first, but I highly doubt that 20,000 hour claim. What is more likely is that it was stress tested for a month and the math says an equivalent service life is 20,000 hours, but as said, even being relatively low power, things wear out faster when they are constantly in a hot environment, which is precisely what a lamp in a projection use case is. If someone manages to get that kind of life out of an Anycubic DLP, I'll be first in line to eat crow.
Yeah, I worked it out to like 1.6 years of display on time. Considering a 1000 layer print with a 1.5s exposure time would only have this smdosplay in for 40 mins of a 6+ hour print time. Those numbers seem insanely high.
@@FauxHammer I've forgotten what my exact numbers were but I believe I based it on an average 5 hour "light user" who prints maybe once a week and has how many ever failed prints to every successful one and it came out to 4.63 or 6.43 years (I forgot what numbers I used where, but some combination of the three feels correct) before a major component would fail, which honestly you could definitely get out of a monochrome screen in that use case before you have to worry about replacement or the machine's capability to price ratio improves well over what one is currently using. That's also assuming a modicum of maintenance is done occasionally and it's stored fairly well.
Excellent video and very comprehensive! Only minor comment is that it feels like you are used to working with light sensitive resins, because the video is kinda dark. =)
oooh, sick burn lol. I'm reoing my studio now. look forwrad to a brighter future
@@FauxHammer Sweet. I look forward to your bright new content! :)
I think the D2 is on the left but that's mostly an assumption from people saying the voxel lines are harder on DLP printers.
Spot on!
Will the build plate fit in the Mercury Plus wash station?
Arent the Mercury's made for the arms on the Elegoo printers? I mean it will most likely physically fit.
@@FauxHammer Yes they are, but having never seen an Anycubic machine in the flesh, I don't know if it'll fit the mount - in my case, I like to mount my build plate on the bracket above the tub so I can wash the models before removing them from the plate.
Perhaps it's possible to precariously perch the plate on the basket, if the bracket doesn't work, but that could lead to breakages.
Thanks for the rely!
Hi there. Can you help me to decide? I have a business in 3D Printers Service and I'm planning to provide my customers with Resin Printing Service. I have 2 options right now. This DLP Printers or the M3 Plus with 6K LCD. I don't really understand which one that I need. By watching your video I can tell that the DLP, it has such an excellent detail rather than LCD. The thing is, The M3 Plus version has larger printing area. That's confuse me since the prices between those two, DLP price is $150 more than the LCD one. Well I think you've got my point 😄. Can please help me decide or at least enlight me? 😊😊😊 Thanks!!!
What are you printing? have you read this? www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/the-best-3d-printer-for-miniatures-models/
Great video - a friend and me bought the D2 after watching your video. We are still struggling a little bit, as we are new to this interesting hobby of 3D printing - so out of curiosity - which print settings do you recommend for the D2 for miniature printing, like the OPR things you printed in the video? Especially for the DLP Craftsmen Resin? Kind regards in advance!
I wish I could give you settings that would help but you need to test it and get the best settings for your printing environment.
Just print the exposure test I do and count the holes and pegs, if you get the same number, that’s dead on perfect exposure.
Fewer holes is over exposed. Fewer pegs is under exposed
I would 100% buy one of these as my next printer, IF the build plate was larger. Instead, I will be going for a Saturn 2 simply because: 1) It's cheaper & 2) Build Plate size.
I would make the same choice, though I’m about to check out the Saturn 8k which is cheaper and appears to have the same spec-ish
@@FauxHammer I looked at that one. The only reason I'm looking at the Saturn 2 over the 8k is because the 8k is running on old hardware. The Saturn 2 uses a new UV setup which is meant to deliver crisper prints. Any printer I buy will be an upgrade anyway as I'm currently rocking a Mars Pro.
@@schtoff8200 I’ll be able to tell you soon, Saturn 2 is reviewed and just needs edging. Cracking the Mars 8k out this week
@@FauxHammer I'll keep an eye out for the videos!
Have the ultra, i totaly think the new version would be worth it
The build plate size is the biggest improvement
Hope you read this
I want to ask an opinion should i buy D2 or mono X 6k which one is better??????
i missed this, so I assume you have already decided, my question would be, What are you printing?
@@FauxHammer yes im going with anycubic kobramax in this february haha
@@zeraigon9833 HAHA, that's a Jump!
What are you gonna be printing?
@@FauxHammer probably a cosplay helmet or armor 😂
Both use monitors don't they? My mono xs screen went out on me and 120 for another is just too much
Both what use monitors? DLP doesn’t use monitors
The discussion of build size seems a little too narrowly focused on miniatures. I've found the 220mm x 220mm build plate of a FDM printer to be a serious constraint at times, mostly because I'm printing things that aren't miniatures.
My channel is focussed on miniatures.
That is a silly place for a usb but you could always use a usb extension cord to relocate it. Who knows maybe having it there keeps cost down in an odd way.
yep it;s probably due to cost
how about the parts? where do i get another dlp assembly?
Anycubic directly I suspect, but by the time it dies, surely you’d be looking to upgrade the printer anyway
Can anyone share settings for D2 with a DLP Craftman resin?
just get them from Lychee dude, but that;s a starting point only.
I remember when we were happy with metal cast miniatures... ;-)
So do I
5months later: are the voxels and layer lines really so easily avoided by the slicer settings?
Yeah, same as they were 5 months ago
Tanks!
No problem!
@@FauxHammer I am a hobbyist in the beginning of 3d printing. If I have any technical questions, can I try to write to you?
oh wow, I did not see the tip! *(Super thanks), thanks so much!!!!
@@checcodubai you can always ask me here, I'll do my best to respond.
I just don't like that they basically took the Mono design and then threw a DLP under it. The mono had Z Flex as did the 4k version, plus both of mine came with a dud Z rod so I'm not too keen on AC.
fair enough, not bother about the asthetics personally and never had a problem with the mechanics myself.
Does AA work with Lychee slicer?
Yea, but not as well. Do your supports in lychee as normal, then export it as an STL. Load that STL in Photon workshop to slice
The voxel thing is not true mate. Mini 8K displays them just as clear as the D2 if you use a better resin and dial it in properly. The 8K resin just scatters light and actually reduces real resolution, that's why they don't show, thats also why it rounds off some details in your prints.
Having now tested both resins in each printer, I can’t say that I’ve seen this specifically happening. I did a post on my Insta recently showing the same resin on both printers and the difference of voxelisation from the D2 is clear - when you zoom right in
@@FauxHammer yes of course you see the Voxels. But you see them on the 8k as well if you cure the resin hard enough and get a resin that doesn't scatter light. The voxels on the 8k are a quarter of the size, they are a lot harder to see. Try a transparent resin ans cure for like 3 seconds per layer
I would be very grateful for advice. I would like to buy my first 3d printer. I read your reviews and I'm thinking about Elegoo Mars Pro 3 or Anycubic Photon Ultra. Both are now the same price in my shop. U can squize my wallet a little bit and get also this D2.
Easy, if the same price D2. So much easier to use, lasts longer and has sharper detail.
That said, the Mars 3 is also a solid printer, but has nothing on the crispness of the D2
after buying a mono x i regreted getting a bigger printer. i have yet to need its build volume and every reokacement part is more expensive.
Oh wow, I have had the opposite experience, I love my larger printers
Anycubic M3 Premium or Anycubic Photon D2?
for me. M3 Premium. the convenience of that larger build plate is worth more than the sharpness of this printer. I print minis and most models do not have the detail to benefit from what the D2 offers.
But, in saying that, the D2 is really easy to use because it's hard to get exposure settings wrong.
Hi, I want to know this pop quiz answer Please which one is D2? 0:27
keep watching the video then ;)
Left was printed on Photon D2
no idea.
A USB extension cable is about $6. Just plug that into the D2's side, thread it around to the front and plug in your drive there. Issue solved. Easy peezy.
but then i still have something sticking out the side of the printer, my issue is horizontal space across my desk, I wnat printers next to eachother
Looks fun, but after buying mono 4k and saturn 2, I'll wait with DLP printers after the economic crash when I'll have money again.
Yeah you already have a solid pair of printers there
The D2 costs almost 3x as much as I paid for my M3 and I'm having nice and crisp prints with the M3 (imo), so I don't see any reason to spend 3x as much for the D2, honestly. Yes, the screen on a DLP printer has a longer lifespan and if you scratch pr ruin the glass plate on your screen, you just have to replace that glass plate, which is less expensive and tedious than replacing an LCD screen. And yes, they use less power (not that much less really), but still. Not worth it for me. I can replace my whole M3 at least 2 times for the price of one of these.
Considering the Mars 4 from Elegoo has a bigger screen (I think) and is cheaper than the D2, I see even less reason to buy this one. Let's hope prices for these things go down when they become more mainstream.
Yeah it totally depends what you want. Make the right call for you
So the one of the left is clearly the d2 the right the mighty 8k or whatever. I also think that the 8K one looks better so I look forward to seeing if you convince me otherwise. And no they look completely different and you can tell right away. Everyone argues that the DLP looks sharper. But I just don't see it. And I could show you where there are details in the 8K that clearly aren't in the DLP. I want to like DLP printers because of the better life span, lower power cost, etc. But I haven't seen any evidence that it produces a more detailed print. All the other stuff you said about the printer makes me want one. But the print quality is not the factor for me especially since I don't see better detail. I just don't.
It really is a hard one.
The simple breakdown is the D2 is sharper, but more visible layer lines
The 8k is smoother but softer in the details.
Can you tell? Probably not.
But I prefer the resin that comes with the D2, specifically for minis
You can soften the DLP print process but you can't sharpen the LCD print process. In that sense DLP is more 'raw' , contains more high frequency information and is more amenable to digital processing. LCD has an inherent and unavoidable low-pass-filter which you may or may not not find favourable but you are nevertheless stuck with it.
Yeah, I was expecting the one on the right to be the D2 and be blow away, but nope. The one on the right looks significantly better than the left IMO.
@@FauxHammer No, I cant tell the difference in accuracy or whatever. The layer lines, on the other hand, are super visible.
I will buy a DLP once they are the size of the mighty 8k
you'll be waiting years, nobody is pushing this technology forward at affordable prices unfortunately, and these didn't sell well enough to warrant much advancements.
Man, that banner comparison just made the case *against* the D2, for me.
Pause the video at 6:16 and study the two. That D2 image on the left looks like shit, compared to the right.
Look at the banner cloth, inner edge. That left image is all jagged, whereas the right image is smooth. That part of the horizontal cross brace that slides over the vertical piece of the banner frame? Jagged AF on the D2 image, smooth as hell on the Photon. Now look at the rings around the vertical pole; bottom ring. WTF is going on with the D2? It looks more like the results of a PLA printer. Look at the smoothness of the banner cloth. D2 has bumps on it.
Now, add proprietary resin to the list and it seals the deal on the hard pass. Just like any Apple product. If a company does not allow me to have choices in what components I choose to buy, then they can kiss the fattest part of my ass. Hell, the knowledge of this bit alone is enough to make my mind up against the D2.
$700 based upon that quality? I'll pass.
If this helped you make the right choice for you, then I'm happy because that's what matters most.
Dude both printing techniques are below 1ct per hour of usage for energy, no matter that msla uses 75% more energy...
ok
I still disagree after seeing the results. I sell custom bits, and I create silicone molds out of base models printed. I need to get them as sharp and smooth as possible. After much testing and lots of macro shooting with a Nikon I got the perfect settings to get a smooth but extremely sharp print. This involves grey scales using Chitubox. Comparing your results to mine I can see yours have clear, defined layer lines.
If you want to compare them I'd be happy to print any model you want and compare the results of the LCD print with your D2 DPL printer.
They do, I have an updated and dedicated comparison video coming out in the next couple of weeks
Dude. Just buy a USB extension cable. 50 meters long. And plug in your flash drive while chillin in pool.
Lol, what pool.
I needed something to complain at Anycubic about, this is all I could find
Comparing primed minis is really disingenuous. Furthermore all possible advantages of the d2 are moot as soon as you print a full build plate.
What does print a full build plate do?
It's not a 2k printer dude. It doesn't use pixels.
it does.