Watch This BEFORE BUYING A 3d PRINTER
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ธ.ค. 2022
- Everything i wish i knew before buying a 3d printer here is some tips i wish i was told before i started 3d printing since doing everything in this video ive had a very stress free printing experince
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Obligatory warning: just because you can't smell it, it doesn't mean it's not harmful.
Luke or Resin?
And if it dries faster than water, it’s volatile enough to become an increasing % of the atmosphere in an enclosed room, so ventilation isn’t optional
Protect your lungs! Those and your eyes accumulate damage and are really bad at recovering.
I would simply close my eyes and hold my breath while working with the resin, but again I would be proving that I am just built different.
@@Based_Lord_Humongous Look at this Chad who does 3D printing stuff just by sensing the micro-vibrations through his hands. Inspirational.
I’d suggest water curing as something I always do. Just pop your models in a jam jar of water and cure half the normal time. Oxygen inhibits curing and water contains less than 1% the amount of free oxygen as air, my models often felt a bit sticky or greasy until I tried water curing and now I get a flawless finish every time.
Is the water distilled?
Tap water?
Best way to poison the water supply and get people very sick in the long term
Is this with water washable resin or regular resin?
My best tip. Stop using a scraper to get models off the build plate!
Use a razor blade to slip under the corner of your model and the plate then just run it up the side.
I'm glad you mentioned the temperature thing! We always see WAY more comments on the forums during the winter all due to cold.
Take your build plate off run it under hot water till it warms up. That will warm your resin at the point of contact. No heater needed.
I use an old Stanley knife
I use a Plastic Razor blade. You get a bunch of razors in the pack (50+), they are disposable and cheap.
Better tip - find a compatible removable/flexible magnetic build plate to easily remove models.
@@ValueRobot I've used magnetic plates before but gone back to regular. I actually had trouble with the print suction pulling magnetic plates OFF the magnet pad and getting a Z drift in the print.
ALSO the magnet doesn't retain heat like the metal build plate so you have more adhesion problems in cold weather.
Thanks Luke, this vid is perfect timing as I’m looking to finally try out 3D printing. Been tempted for a year or so. Hopefully this will help reduce too many mistakes!
Many thanks for this boatload of good tipps. Am about to getting started with printing and this for sure helps a lot!
For Americans that have never heard of methylated spirits, we usually call it denatured alcohol.
Fantastic video! I can’t thank you enough for the great tips in such an effective video!
Thanks Luke, that was a really solid video. Made notes and used comments too, most helpful.
Thank you! Perfect timing for my Christmas present!
fantastic video, thank you for that metho and heating tips especially
Outstanding video! Doing our first ever print tonight. Cheers!
Super helpful
Thank you so much!
Been waiting for this. Perfect timing as I've just bought my first printer in four years. Many thanks
Love this video. I am planning on purchasing a printer in the new year and you just saved future me a bunch of money. Cheers!
Definitely recommend finding a patreon/tribe you like and subscribing for a month. Pre-supported models are great while you are learning the dark art of supporting.
Going to have to give meths a go when this batch of IPA is doo dirty to settle out. I have no easy access to hot water in my hobby space ( in the loft) so I use a hair dryer after the IPA clean to heat things up when removing supports and it works well. Regarding our lovely British winter, I use a super cheap 40w bar heater from screwfix in a cardboard box, 5 degrees ambient in the loft 20 degrees+ in my cardboard box.
Some great ideas in relation to cleaning resin models, thank you.
Best upgrade to buy is a Wham Bam flex plate. This is one upgrade that is very worth the cost.
Exposure times for your resin is the most important item after a level build plate. The single best exposure test out there is The Cones of Calibration from TableFlip Foundry. It takes all the guess work out of it. Once you get the proper exposure time for that printer and resin, write it down in a notebook, sticky note on the wall, whatever.
Another tip is to take your alcohol bath, the dirty one, put a lid on it, and expose it to sunlight, and you can often scoop away the sludge and have a cleaner bath.
I'll have to try meth spirits, never even heard of it, but if it's cheaper, well worth it.
Outside of the British Commonwealth I believe methylated spirit tends to be called denatured alcohol.
The flexible plate has made my sonic so much more agreeable to use. Apart from time and aggro, I always doubted my plate was level after taking it out and wresting a print off it.
If you rough up or scratch up (with a knife point) one or both sides, a trick is to add the glue to one side, then, when put together, as the glue seeps into the cracks and scratches and roughed surface of the other side, it spreads thinner, out into those crevices, and sets up immediately, hardening super strong.
After 2 years of 3d printing, washing in meths and then the warm water clean/desprue is the goto method, once you have the right settings dialled in then good to go.
On a note Mentioning thingiverse and 3d cults, i too started with them and after a mixture of failures and good prints the main thing i noted is a lot of designers are just starting out on those sites and the stl's are not optimised half the time, no presupport or support guidelines, not sliced/cut or hollowed and scale can be off, its a lottery where is if you find a good producer of stl files with support then although you are paying you shouldn't have the headaches of failed prints and wasted resin.
Cheers for a good vid!
I would love a video on stl files for historical wargamers. Links would also be fantastic !!!
Great suggestion!
I agree!
Definitely
Great advice even for those of us who have been printing for years.
I’m going to try the methylated spirited.
A little torque wrench from Screwfix will help with the tightening Vs overtightening, 1/4 inch drive is about £20. Then you just need the right size hex bit.
I've been using thinners to clean my models, out here in Qatar getting good isopropyl above 70% is impossible. And I found the paint thinners is a lot lot cheaper as well here, works well,
I got my first printer. I wonder how it is going to go. I have all ready learned to level machine first then do the plate on paper level
This cleaning tips are amazing, I'm sick of the amount of gooey resin left over from flitering the alcohol after leaving it to cure. Do you have any recomendations for where to get the Methylated Spirits in bulk?
Always like your videos. Thanks for the advice on printers, I’m hoping to get one next year 👍
This has probably been the most informative vid Iv watched on resin printing cheers again Luke you’ve just saved me another £100+ as was about to blow a wad on a uv wash n cure thing
Good advice. I'm going to try your recommendation for methylated spirits rather than isopropanol, which I've heard elsewhere also reduces the damage to smooth surfaces that can be caused by iso.
NB: Methylated Spirits is actually ethanol (grain alcohol) with things added to make it poisonous, which can include methanol. In the US, it's usually called "Denatured Alcohol".
Hi, have you tested it? Does it work? In the EU you start fires with it so... I am a bit worried.
@@mwb8666 I'm sure someone told me not to use metho on resin because it dissolves. If that's not true then awesome
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Temperature is a big thing that I still struggle with because my printers are in the basement. I do like the curing station though because I don't have a really good windowsill to put the miniatures on that is safe from the cats or is ventilated because they can start to smell before they're cured.
I have a small compact 40w bar heater (Its about 12-14" long) that sits right next to my printer. A big cardboard box lined with silver bubble wrap goes over the top, nice and warm. My hobby space is in the loft and it can get down to only a few degrees up there in the winter. I think the heater cost me less than 15 quid from screwfix or toolstation, cant remember which., and at 40W with a thermostat so its not gonna eat through your electricity.
Merry Christmas Luke!
Thx for the nice video and tips.... I have a special issue you or perhaps s.o. can help me with: During the last year i printed tons of things with my anycubic photon and anycubic photon mono. at the beginning a had many failures but i learned a lot and finally everything worked well since now: i paused for a half year. wenn i started again, i updated chitubox to the new version (1.94). now my photon mono sometimes does not print the figure to the end. it just stops at a certain level. the figure then looks like cut off at a certain height. Ironically, the "straight cut" is not at one height for all figures on the platform, its different. ... i lowered the retract speed, but this doesnt work. ... i think i will use an other clicer, or could it just be a failure with the model? it was a presupported version from a company i never had trouble with the supports....
Brent from Goobertown Hobbies should be able to help us all understand how the metho is different to to IPA.
Thank you for this. Any chance of a tutorial aspect of using the slicing programs? I'm 45 just missed the tech side of a lot of things. Im wanting to 3D print but am scared of the technical side of things? This video was so great like your old school make your own washes and sculptimold videos, thank you sir!
There are quite a lot of tutorials on TH-cam based on the main programs, just find what you like the look of, most user friendly and spend an hour watching a few videos.
100% agree with everything you have said! I switched to Meths as a cleaner back when you first mentioned it many vids ago! I have yet to change my meths vat, it’s murky as but still works perfectly. I follow with a hot water wash in a bucket as well for the same reasons, it cleans and makes the supports easier to remove. Great vid and well worth watching again!
What brand of spirits are you using?
@@robertkelly3948 here in NZ I’m using the Diggers 4lt Methylated Spirits brand from Bunnings. The price was NZ$20, and I have been using the same bottle for the last 8 months solid, no cleaning of the wash station or anything. It’s so cloudy I can’t actually see the prints when they are being washed but they still come out perfectly clean. I do drop them in a bowel of hot water to rinse and make the supports easier to come off before curing.
i think the thing ppl dont talk about RESIN print is the MESSS and the smell .......IF you dont have a dedicated place and is inside home full living with kids and stuff smells horrible and then the alcohol ....witch is volatile, if you dont have good ventilation you can have pockets and even nice explosions ....... i want to get in resin 3d but it means to do all the support behind the 3d printing .....i might be not objective but from what i get from most video ppl have a separated room from the house or a extension is not like .... ooooo i have this office room in my house ..what to do?? ..lets have 5 3d printers WEEEE PS ty mate for the video and hope you are well ...live strong
Just on with a print now defo trying the hot water 👍and going to pick some methylated spirits up to try
Would've been a good shout to mention a respirator in the starter kit. Fairly important bit
Luke a lot of other channels talk about problems to do with resin getting onto the LCD screen.
Why does that happen and on a Phrozen Mighty 8K what is the best way to stop it from happening and clean it if it does happen?
Happy Holidaze and a prosperous ,healthy New Years to all. Doc BC
Brilliant video just at a time I needed it 👍 One question though, if you have the time. Which would you recommend as the cheapest starter printer, that’s not going to be used that often?
Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. $135 right now. Best deal ever in my opinion.
@@toddzino58 cheers 👍
@@toddzino58 Yup. Ordered mine last week. And this video makes me happy I didn't buy the Wash/Cure station with it :p
Apparently a brewers belt wrapped around the bottom of the printer keeps the resin a good temperature. Probably cheaper to run then a heater as well
Luke great vid. Have you used water washable resins? Like/Dislike? Why?
Amazing video, thank you! To understand the process: you use hot water before curing but after methylated spirits, right?
@GeekGamingScenics.. is that really you?!
I'm a college student so i don't have a great place to print so I only get to fire off my printer a few times a year but I love it! At least I always paint what I have
What brand of Spirits do you use? And do you recommend an online supplier?
What is your opinion about Elegoo Mars 2 Pro? I was thinking of buying that 3D printer.
THis was a super helpful video. Thank you. Do you have a link to the company you're getting the clear meths from Luke?
@@GeekGamingScenics Thank you Luke, you're a star
@@GeekGamingScenics before I clicked to see, I had two suppliers in my head and this was one :-) Deff gonna give meths a go next time I am looking to replace my IPA
Cheap sun/uv powered rotating jewellery turntable good for curing small mini’s in a window
What percentage Methylated Spirits do you recommend? Are higher percentages better than the lower ones?
Guys... Buy a grow tent, air filter, carbon filter and build your print station in there. Controlled UV, controlled air flow and temperature. Around £80 for tent, £50 for pump and same again for filter, maybe £20 on piping / hosing.
Yes, trying to keep it warm in winter is a right pain, isn't it? I've been trying to use a fermentation heating band and a Deliveroo insulated food bag (!) but it's all a bit wobbly. I like the idea of a grow tent but it's maintaining the temperature that's foxing me. How did you do it with yours, Rusty?
@@TheHunch8ack get a greenhouse heating bar, low energy, low temp, but when enclosed it keeps a nice ambient temp (and can get in the size you want, and control the temp, more you spend better you get as always)
@@rustyrocks69 Cheers, I'll give it a go!
Thanks, man
Definitely going to try the meths as an alternative
Thank you very much! I've been printing for a while and I too am not particularly happy with Isopropyl alcohol and I'm looking for something else. Apparently what's called "Methylated Spirits" is the UK, Australia, etc is called "Denatured alcohol" in other countries (I live in Italy). As all types of alcohol it comes in a variety of concentrations. Could you please provide a bit more details on the type you use? Or a link to the product itself so I can look up its characteristics and find something similar locally? In particular the % of methyl, as - again - that can vary a lot. Thank you very very much once again!
Yeah, I've switched to meths, IPA tends to leave white marks on the print if it's been doused in IPA for too long. When it comes to meths don't get the dark tinted meths; this can discolour your resin. I use a very light pink meths. Of course the best if you can get it is industrial meths but difficult to get since they don't want you to make moonshine 😉
@@TheAndrian463 thanks. again, a link to the one you use, or even just its name, so I can look up its composition? thanks!
It varies by country, in the UK for example methylated spirits by law has to be at least 95% ethyl alcohol for industrial use, consumer grade is 90% with regulations on what the % of denaturants are in both cases (methanol), consumer grade is also died purple. In the US, denatured alcohol can be as little as 40% alcohol and 60% methanol, methanol is not nice.
I don't know if there are any EU regulations regarding the quantities of denaturants, I'm UK based and use bioethanol. It's similar to metho/denatured alcohol being mostly plant based (distilled ethanol) unlike ISO (petrochemical) but has no toxic methanol.
Most bioethanol for sale in the UK claims to be 95% alcohol but as with denatured alcohol and iso, it's hydrophilic, meaning they all attract water so the purity will drop over time as they suck moisture from the air.
@@pgabrieli Hi, seems my reply earlier on got blocked because I provided a link to Amazon for the product. Look up the brand Supadec Methylated Spirit 5L (590833) the picture (Industrial Plasters Brand) is not the one I received but Supadec. It is clear but with a very light pink tint according to my eyesight and does not have a pungent smell as the darker purple tinted meths - seems purer to me. What I received works for me but ymmv.
@@tuvaaq If you're using bioethanol to wash your prints, could you share what brand you're using? I keep getting fuels when looking up bioethanol and am not sure if they're the same product.
Quick question, If I buy an 8K printer do I need to stick with 8K resin? After all it's not cheap! Thanks.
Just wondering does the meths affect wash and cure machine at all?
When your isopropyl gets cloudy stick it in a clear container that you don't care about that seals and stick it outside in the sun once all the resin has solidified filter the isopropyl and reuse it.
Let it sit for a week or so and all the resin will settle to the bottom, no need for UV, you can just decant the clean IPA off the top and leave the sludge in the bottom for the next batch of dirty IPA. I use this method to rotate 2x 5l batches of IP. Once I have a good build up of sludge I filter this thru several layers of cheesecloth and squeeze out as much IPA as I can they cure the residue off before it goes in the bin.
@@B4MBI72 My way is faster and simpler.
Sorry to do this guys but I'm looking for information on which is the best laptop or PC to use with the slicers for 3D printing
I have seen low base exposure cause delaminnating on 3 different resin printers, so not sure what youre trying to say with that statement.
Nice!
"Alternative bolts" can't be ignored.. but I don't wanna be that guy. Someone do it.
I'm surprised you say the metho lasts really long. I haven't found it lasts super long, probably about a week. I find once it gets too cloudy I'll get bits of resin on the surface that look like tiny blobs that just won't wash off. maybe yours is stronger stuff.
Thanks Luke.
I just got 5 liters of Mr Clean to try instead of IPA as IPA gives me a cracking headache.
I just started 3d printing like 3 weeks ago, and I'm not sure I agree with you. How is signing up to a subscription service for models you might not even like, going to help you learn. Free supported files exist and the comments and reviews help a lot with finding out settings and if they require further supporting, which I think is as an important skill to learn when taking on 3d printing, it's amazing to have that skill. It's great you are getting sponsored, but I don't think condoning free files over a paid subscription is the right message. I think learning from mistakes is better than perfect prints from pre supported files. Just my opinion
You know you can just sign up for the one month they have something you like right? If you're trying to get your settings dialed in, checking you can get a good print out, you're gonna want to make sure you actually have a properly made supported STL. Reputable patreons and stores are just a good way of ensuring that, before jumping into less tried and tested creations.
@@Relyx So none of those points were made in the video and as I already stated, the free files on site often have examples of 3d models created with that file, and you would not necessarily get a perfect print from one of those paid sites as you would have to consider the printer, the positioning on the bed, the settings, the resin and a number of other points made in the video. So why not get all of this honed in with a free file that you can see other people have already used successfully. Also he states in the video later on how he wishes he didn't go all in on the printer "accessories" by the same logic, free files would be just as useful. I just don't agree with recommending a paid subscription service, even if for just one month, which happens to be a sponser, for first time users when in the same video he sates to not even shell out for a UV nail light and to just let them cure outside. It just seems to be contradictory and biased to a sponsor. Again, just my opinion
Title should say, "Resin 3d Printing."
FDM is obviously much less work and much less mess, but not so good for Mini's.
Also, why subscribe to one supplier?
Realistically, how many armies of the same type are you going to print before you have too many?
Good luck in your 3d printing journey 👍
Temperature! I learned that too late as well.
Do printers still need to be plugged into a PC or can the files be sent via a phone or pen drive? Thanks.
Most use a pen drive or SD card.
For Americans who may not know, Methylated Spirits are called Denatured Alcohol over here.
I'd also suggest curing submerged in water.
What are the benefits?
nice 1 m8.....good lad
2 things I’d add
1. Plastic razor scraper so you don’t damage the build plate and you won’t need a flex plate
2. Bottle warmer to remove supports. Dead cheap on eBay and means you can keep using the same water and it’s a consistent temperature
You say methylated spirits is cheaper than IPA, I haven't found it cheaper at all 🤔 IPA is more pure than meths maybe it's the Ethanol? but again I have found this to be more expensive. Did you try the pink methylated spirits? If so may give it a go.
How many more videos until we get the small scale game stuff?
Good advice here, makes me want to try the metholated (sp?) spirits....got several bins with resin goo all over the bottom from after the IPA evaportated out. loved the description on going all balls to the wall when getting started buying everything you see, I did the same thing...
Methylated 👍
All you need is luv luv luv
hey Luke what do you use for your clip on mic question from my wife
@@GeekGamingScenics thanks bro appreciate it
My Creality Halot One has been crap since I bought it a year ago - cant seem to get it printing One Page Rules miniatures at all.
Which resin are you using?
I really struggle with mine too
@@SilentFlatulence tried loads but had best results with elegoo ABS Like. The supports never seem strong enough and the models end up stuck to the fep. Literally given up with it.
OPR have a dedicated support section on their Discord where you can get help.
But the general tips still stand : bed leveling, printer on a flat surface, room temperature (min 20 C, 25 is best), shaking the resin bottle (never let it stay too long in the vat).
I use Elegoo Abs like too and their settings and the only times I got failures it was mostly due to one of those reasons (temp mostly) and sometimes bad/low supports . It takes time but when the settings are right, your printer will go brrrr
@@5lippy404 If you are getting supports printed but no models, I would say temperature or lift speeds. Try increasing the first and reducing the second, or as counter-intuitive as it sound increasing both. With lift speeds and separation from the FEP you can go for a slow gentle peel, or a fast rip, the middle ground is not ideal. My settings with ABS like is 180mm/m lift speeds, you can get away with 240 or 300 if its a very well supported model.
Maybe even add a delay of 0.5-1s after each layer print before lifting if the first two dont help. I am far from an expert, but have a few years printing experience and these things have helped. Also if you have a full build plate increase your lift height, having a lot of surface area stuck to your FEP will stretch it more so you need to lift further to get it to sperate.
Hope this makes sense and helps
I've seen online a good tip to cure the minis faster and more evenly is to stick them in a jar of plain water - helps the light refract and get into all the crevices, works either in a UV box or just in the sun
I'm curious about the meths use... I wonder if anyone in the hivemind could advise us on if this is ok...
i use it and its better then iso grab a bottle from wilko and try it i've used it from day 5 and never went back
Denatured alcohol / methylated spirits has toxins added in order to make it unsafe to consume and sometimes those can be absorbed through the skin depending on what chemicals are used. It's generally considered safe to use as an ingredient in things like hand sanitizer but if I were to use it to clean resin prints I'd want to make sure I always wore gloves when sticking my hand in a tub of it.
@@joegekko yeah I usually wear gloves regardless... From what I can see online methylated spirits should be fine to use with PPE as with any other chem...
Copy pasta from another reply regarding meths (and purity).
It varies by country, in the UK for example methylated spirits by law has to be at least 95% ethyl alcohol for industrial use, consumer grade is 90% with regulations on what the % of denaturants are in both cases (methanol), consumer grade is also died purple. In the US, denatured alcohol can be as little as 40% alcohol and 60% methanol, methanol is not nice.
I don't know if there are any EU regulations regarding the quantities of denaturants, I'm UK based and use bioethanol. It's similar to metho/denatured alcohol being mostly plant based (distilled ethanol) unlike ISO (petrochemical) but has no toxic methanol.
Most bioethanol for sale in the UK claims to be 95% alcohol but as with denatured alcohol and iso, it's hydrophilic, meaning they all attract water so the purity will drop over time as they suck moisture from the air.
Maybe mention in the title this is for Resin.
can you let me know where to get the methanol/methylated spirits from please :)
Has anyone tried ethanol
Flex plates are amazing if you only have one printer.
Watch This BEFORE BUYING A 3d PRINTER😊
Not to sound like a crazy uncle but what puts me off 3D printing is the idea of having plastic/resin fumes in my house, sounds like a long term health nightmare.
There's a UV Resin made from Soybeans, which is supposed to have reduced fumes and less toxicity. Not to mention Elegoo sells an activated charcoal filter unit.
I switched to meth on your advice and so glad I did. Although anyone else forget a print in meth and come back the next day to find it's been eaten through? Printed some tokens left them in the meth (few hrs oops) and the center of the tokens were gone.... nothing left
Love your stuff, but I feel like you’ve made this exact video five times already…
But what printer do I buy lol
@@GeekGamingScenics what a sensible answer 😁
Reminder: your ear gauges are grotesque
Sadly denatured alcohol / methylated spirits has become very hard to find in the US. Yes, it's political, but no this isn't the place for it :-)
I search gallon "denatured alcohol" & "isopropol alcohol" & find them in online hardware stores just fine for about $25 bucks each.
Someone could confirm that this Meths you are talking about is this one? it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metanolo - CH3OH (o, short, MeOH or MetOH).