Improving Air Flow And Displacement On Our Cheap Cherokee's Straight Six - Trucks! S11, E7
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Project Cheep Cherokee's back in the shop so we can do a budget bore and stroke on our four liter straight six for more power. And, we'll show you how to create more displacement and let it breathe better by port matching the intake and cylinder head.
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PARTS USED IN THIS EPISODE:
Comp Cams: Xtreme 4x4 Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts for fuel injected, AMC High Energy Timing Set, High Energy Hydraulic Lifters.
More Info: pntv.us/pb_pt_...
Dupli-Color: Dupli-Color semi-gloss enamel paint (3).
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Dupli-Color: Dupli-Color Truck Bed Coating, aerosol.
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Royal Purple: Max-Tuff assembly lube.
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Spectre Performance: ProFab Quik-Kit Air Intake Fabrication System.
More Info: pntv.us/pb_pt_...
Summit Racing: Replacement injector set.
More Info: pntv.us/pb_pt_...
Summit Racing: Valve spring retainers (12).
More Info: pntv.us/pb_pt_...
Summit Racing: Valve spring set (12).
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The Eastwood Company: Pre Painting Prep Aerosol.
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Auto Body Color & Supply Co.: Red scuff pads.
Kimberly-Clark Professional: SCOTT Shop Towels.
Napa Auto Parts: Labor to Press Rod Bolts
O'Reilly Auto Parts: Remanufactured Cylinder Head
O'Reilly Auto Parts: Crank Kit 4.2l, Connecting Rods, .040 Pistons, Shipping, Piston Rings, Cam Bearings, Valve Keeper
O'Reilly Auto Parts: Remove Broken Bolt, Freeze Plugs, Install Freeze Plugs, R&R Cracked Head, Head Gasket, Conversion Set, Head Set
O'Reilly Auto Parts: .040 Bore, Chem Dip, Magnaflux, Align Hone, Install Cam Bearings, Zero Deck, Press Piston Pins, Balance Rotating Assembly X2
O'Reilly Auto Parts: Microfiber towels 2-24 pack
O'Reilly Auto Parts: Oil Pump, Pickup, Oil Filter, Thermostat, Thermostat Gasket, V-Belt, Harmonic Balancer
O'Reilly Auto Parts: Case of Brake Clean
O'Reilly Auto Parts: Rubber Oil Pan Gasket, Rubber Valve Cover Gasket, Main Bearing Set .020
O'Reilly Auto Parts: Motor Mounts
O'Reilly Auto Parts: Six Oil Filters (2)
O'Reilly Auto Parts: Knock Sensor
O'Reilly Auto Parts: Intake gasket, Nitrile Gloves
O'Reilly Auto Parts: 8mm Valve Locks
Sunday morning with Stacey David made my childhood weekends something to look forward too
GEARZ
Yeah I started watching got rod tv and was a addicted from there
Hot rod and Got rod tv are two different things, I think Got rod tv was toward the end of the channel listings
Agreed! These were my "Saturday morning cartoons"
Me too.
What happened to finishing the 4.6 build? Dyno results? I was interested in finding out how you tuned it with the FI system?
My thoughts exactly!
I could never bring myself to grinding the cylinder head away for a .3 decrease in compression. I'd just put the higher octane fuel in it. Not worth your time.
4:58 Engine assembly is a little more than just torque spec and sequence although those are vital. Your bearing and piston clearances matter just as much if not more. Also piston ring end gap depending on your plans. You want to open them up if going with a power adder unless you like busted ring lands. And checking the end gap should be standard in any build unless you like blowby on a new engine. Too much crankshaft thrust clearance? You might end up driving over the crankshaft the first time you give it the beans. Just got your block back from the machine shop after a line hone and overbore? Check the clearances on the pistons and bearings. Never just assume all is copacetic. And don't spin the crankshaft until all the main caps are torqued to spec. The mains are not round until they are torqued and spinning the crank before the mains are torqued means you run the risk of scuffing the bearings and possibly the journals.
Or maybe everything was already measured and checked before hand........ for television time and such
They actually did btw. That aside, those low reving straight sixes are MUCH more forgiving and actually thrive in slightly looser tolerances relative to newer or performance specs.
How is it i just watched the last episode and was searching for the next segment and then this finally pops up the day after, talk about lucky
I was thinking the same thing... Good thing for Google's AI.
SAME
someone should have designed a tunnel port exhaust style head for the jeep...the 4.0 was so durable because it wasnt powerful enought to hurt itself.
2j swap the jeep, call it supajeep
Haha exactly! It better last forever it makes low power and doesn’t rev.
Exactly what an Older guy told me when i went to rebuild my ford 300i6. Told me its prolly the best motor i coulda picked to rebuild bc its durable and doesnt have enough hp to do damage to itself if im not perfect with everything
That's typical for all the old Detroit straight 6 engines. They wouldn't turn high enough to hurt themselves. There is really nothing that magical about them.
Edelbrock makes an aluminum head for this engine.....IF you can find one.
*_Who takes compression out of a low hp engine oh that's right NO POWERNATION!!!_*
Or NO PENETRATION
Lol 😂😂😂
@@WhiteG60 You are so right!
Came here looking for this comment
(Tim)"What are you doing to that Jeep engine, cylinder head, AL ?
(AL) "Tim, ...I'm lowering it's comprehension ratio and power"
(Tim) "OOOHHAAAH ??!!!"
The jeeps intake :"i cant breathe"
Chris Mason Bubba Wallace:I can’t drive🐒💨💨💨
@@bryantcurtis2665 George Floyd: I can't breath
4.0L Lives Matter
I finally realized this is the same guy from the Eastwood Company’s TH-cam, it all makes sense now.
And LMC truck!
He started with Power Nation first, remember this was made in 2007 I saw this when it was first aired on tv. You can buy this on dvd They just upload the video this year. Look at the date its uploaded lol
From less than 50 horsepower to a brand new motor. I can only imagine the difference for the owner.
How old is this show in reality? Don´t think it was made in the last 5 years...
From 2009.
@@sodderbridge wow really?
@@TheDeathCards yeah... they give the copyright date in the caption at the end of the show.
We had a 1988 Jeep Cherokee and it took us to all the fishing lakes around us in a 150 mile radius. But the body rusted out and the transmission failed and the engine had countless issues. But we loved it for what it could do.
Haha, this episode aired in like 2015. Sorry to those who thought it was new. It's still great though. I miss those guys.
2009
@@basshead. damn, I'm old I didnt think it had been that long lol
It's funny tho, these builds are actually getting more and more popular among younger enthusiast. Maybe not the really older engines but the 4.0L is a Jeep guys LS
Love XJs. Watching from Europe. I couldn't get this kind of info anywhere else. Love the show. Keep going.
Bleepin' Jeep if you haven't come across them yet.
Love y’all from Europe, from Phoenix AZ USA 🇺🇸❤️ Europe
@@shepardsinsequence q1!!+!q
I know you love them... I happen to work on them for a living. I don’t have nice things to say. However, I own an Xj.
Idk about removing part of the squish band to get back 3 points of compression. Seems like one step forward and two back.
Optimally, it should have been done with the correct piston. But you are correct. He should have just left it alone. A 9.6 with good quench is better than 9.3 with no quench.. Especially with an iron head and pump fuel.
Usually 140 thousand is nothing for a 4.0,however if not maintained any engine can be ruined.
My daily going on 7yrs and about 25k for mileage without an oil change.
Why bother on a 1200$ car, but I'm obviously not doing it any favors.
It's fun to see how long it'll live.
MrHillfolk if your daily has an oil leak and you add when it’s low you should be fine lol
@@trevorthomas6043
It doesn't really leak it , but about every 8 months or so the teapot light comes on when I rip a corner hard.
So I add like 2.5 qts to it's approximately 4 qt capacity and it's good for a while 🤣🤣
If you are going to spend time and money on building a performance motor why would you lower the compression? Especially if it’s only 9.6 to 1 .....
At around the 9:55 mark, said it was to avoid the extra cost of Premium fuel. Probably lowered it a touch more to give a bigger window to avoid knocking from premature ignition.
swhite209 my point is why run the low octane when you chase power, maybe they don’t have high octane fuel available all the time or maybe his pockets are empty after the build? Lol
@@Aladinscave If you're gonna offroad it, you don't want an engine dependent on premium fuel. You might need to borrow fuel to get back out or use backroad gas stations-which won't have premium...
Sounds like he thought this through a bit.
Not to mention you have people like where I live who would still run it as a daily driver from what I've seen. This is the first video on the project I've watched so I don't know the whole plan.
To avoid using higher octane fuel. Its still a stock head . Maybe if it was an aluminum head they would of left it alone .
9.6:1 is just fine for 87octane. If your worried just knock 2* of timming out of it
This was my thoughts. They could safely run 87 octane pump gas on 9.6:1 unless they planned on using a power adder in the future which almost always requires premium anyway regardless of compression ratio.
Really depends on the quench height too. You can get away with lower octane at higher compression with a tight quench. That can be difficult to do though mixing and matching parts for a stroker.
Who in the hell wants lower compression? Unless you’re over pump gas octane rating? Do all that work spend all that money to get less HP?
They said it was to run on cheap gas but I would have taken the win and gone for premium gas.
Cause these guys are retarded everything they do sucks lol never seen them ever do something right or build something that actually makes power
9,6:1 is normal CR today. Or it was already in 1970s here in Europe
It's a jeep Engine who cares if they lost five hp
Right? Wtaf....
I’d have kept or got more compression the more it is the more horsepower, as these engines made low numbers of horsepower. All you would have to use is a better grade of gas. When I do mine I want 10:1.
If you are using a 4.2 crank with 4.2 rods and 4.0 pistons on a 4.0 block you will have low compression. The top of your piston will sit like .082 thousands below deck height. If anything you would want to gain compression. This makes no sense.
I was confused about that. Maybe mis spoke?
" were going to pick up a fair amount of HP" - quote after head work and gasket matching everything. Ok, well how much ??
I wouldn’t cut the chambers down at all 9-6 to 1 is nothing in compression and would make the motor snappy want to lose some compression get a bigger camshaft
I think 9.6 to 1 was my factory compression on my 87 Wrangler with a 258 and I loved the way it ran I did have to use premium fuel though. It really came alive when I dumped the Carter carburetor and put on I think it was like a motorcraft two barrel and ditched all the emissions and computer
Deshrouding is the way to go. I woulda just got a thicker HG if I was only tryna lower the static CR. 9.6:1 is nuthin'.
Help it breath with a turbo.
A turbo doesn't help it breathe better, as it doesn't gain any airflow through a port. Kinda know what you were getting at though..
Someone on oxygen is having more air forced in per breath, effectively helping them breathe better. So they should strap a big ass snail lung on that puppy and let it force it's way to better breathing. 🤣🤣
@@kuhndog-1196 Technically untrue as well lol. With a comment like that, you would think you understood how a turbo, or oxygen tank worked? Lol.
There is always one of you haha. Have to make yourself feel big and bad. Do you feel like a big man now? 😂
@@kuhndog-1196 Nope. My intentions are solely aimed at helping. People read comments like yours, and get mislead to believe misinformation. Your response, however, tells a lot. My bad that your ego won't let you accept someone trying to help. Welcome to the internet...
I6 the best
$711 for all that machine work.... I've been quoted a hair over $2k for the same work on the same block where I live. It might be cheaper to ship the block to your crew and have it shipped back to me.
This is at least 15 years old.
@@zhdpa what do you mean?
$711 is media price. For average joes 3x that price.
Or, dont bother. Just buy a good $700 engine and turbo charge it for much greater gain.
Nor Dic And it will be same price tag?
So let me get this straight, they spent money on upgrading the cam, rotating assembly, injectors, and another $150 on a CAI for the engine to have more power. But they left that ridiculous manifold, the tiny throttle body, and didn't bother to do any tuning? Add in an amateur porting and chamber job that probably hurt more than it helped. That money would have been better spent elsewhere. Like just freshening up the factory parts and starting with the intake and exhaust so the system flowed better and had a better balance.
how come no follow up with power numbers?
Looking forward to doing something similar with a jeep 2wd 5 speed in my 71 gremlin
As much crap as Gremlins always seem to get, I'd still love to have one and build a turbo 4.6 stroker and take it to the strip.
@@Future-Preps35 yeah that has been popping up but haven't quite checked it out, I have a spare 401 laying around for my 74 javelin amx that if I go as far as spending some big money on the 6, im just going to use some bulltear mounts and throw the 401 in the gremlin
@@Brock_Landers would be great! I also have a 92 Nissan 240sx that I took the 2jz out of and I have it sitting and waiting for a project, I expressed the idea of a 2jz and t56 in my gremlin on some forums and people thought the straight 6 tuner power plant sounded rad, and then a guy stole my idea so I kinda lost interest because I was trying to be the first 2j gremlin but I should have kept my mouth shut. Plenty of late 70s z28s I'm sure got embarrassed at the red light by a few gremlin Xs back in the day with a good ol 258 under the hood, the torque is there and you gotta love that amc 6 reliability.
Sweet!! I think that would be Peppy
Make the effort to use OBD II intake, head, and wiring. The intake flows so much better and you can access the ECU with HP tuners, ask me how I know.
This wasn't a cheap build.
Just sayn
Depends on how you look at it.
Probably 3k and time when done.
Look at what they are getting out of it. That engine will probably last for 200k miles.
If you took it to a shop, that would probably be more like 4.5k.
You know very well that the shop wouldn't do as good of a job as you would by yourself.
Cheapest way to go would be a junk yard motor. I've done many.
Some last, some don't.
@@markchidester6239 $3,000 for barley over 200hp. I have nothing against the 4.0l but they could have built a 400hp 400tq ls for that.
@@markchidester6239 You make a valid point. I think at this point I'm splitting hairs. The tools cost money. I have a decent amount. (as an investment of course) But com'on, whos got a frame bender with concrete anchors. Thats just #$@%n cool, and may have been a few bucks there.
I think its part jealousy as well
@@konnerkramer329 Don't forget to tack on the cost of upgrading the rest of the driveline to handle that power. That rear end front and rear for instance would probably blow up like a hand grenade the first time you gave it the beans. Would the spindly driveshaft twist up like a beer can? Would the suspension wheel hop so badly that you end up breaking things? Would the transfer case go nuclear the first time your foot goes to the floor? Have to think about everything that goes in unison with the engine. Not just the engine itself.
"Budget bore and stroke"
Lol, right.
Some people have better budgets
Seems like a throttle body would have been a good choice too.
One thing I should point out, they kept saying "Cherokee rods" and "Cherokee pistons" this WILL NOT WORK with a 258 crank. The 4.0 has a deck height of 9.45". If you use the 6.125 connecting rods on the 3.895" stroke of the 258 crank it will shove the piston about a quarter inch into the head. The 4.0 piston has a compressed height of 1.601" so you can either use the 258 connecting rods, which will increase your quench height, and make the engine sensitive to fuel, or get custom pistons with a +/- 1.3" compressed height. The second option maintains the total combustion volume, and lets you run the same fuel as a stock 4.0L.
Wtf there are so many more ways to lower compression... A lot of ppl are going to ruin heads doing that. Smh
Stupid show. I can't believe this BS.
And that compression ratio wasn't even that high. You have Toyota Camreys running that compression ratio on 87 octane lol.
Great vids!
Could you guys create a Playlist for the Project XJ?
I've been purchasing some of the products you've mentioned.
Thanks!
thanks for the cost break down! wish all shows did that!
there is no way it made 33HP that wouldnt even drive the truck down the road at 35 MPH .. thats like scooter HP
gained 33 hp not made 33hp 😂😂😂
The 99+ "octopus 🐙" intake flows better
Anyone know what episode number the next in this series was? I want to see the dyno results after the build but can't find it.
I"m a little disappointed that you didn't degree the cam. You can't always trust that the timing is where it's supposed to be. Don't have to do each lobe, but it's a good idea to check number 1 intake and exhaust. I've found cams to be off by about a tooth or two.
Drop the pre 2000 log intake and get yourself the later intake. 20 free hp without any machine work.
Xjs are the 5.os of the 4x4 world I love'em
You guys are killin it, awesome videos dudes I like the fact it's a budget build not a make 1000hp build keep up the good work. Your video production is excellent I love it.
"Only a couple hours of your time on the engine bay."
You cant bullshit a bullshiter. 😜
My father always used to say that.
Did they put a holley efi on this or something? How do you tune these engines with a stock computer?
They’ll probably cover that when they upload the next part
Nice job and if possible I want to see this job but in six double overhead cam engine. Thanks.
You NEVER mention that bearing cap mating surfaces MUST BE ABSOLUTELY CLEAR of any lube prior to final torquing down. I mean if you’re trying to help out DIYers.
Prime time to pull the wiring harness out for inspection repair and or replacement. It's a Chrysler product, definitely needs some repair at a minimum.
I’m so happy I see my favorite TH-cam channel using O’Reillys stuff cause I work at O’Reillys good ole store 6382 keep up the amazing videos
I love Murphy N.C. !
I’ve seen all types of engine’s on this channel the only one I haven’t seen is a Chrysler 318 it would be cool to see one pushed to the max
Can anyone tell me if keeping the compression high for high altitudes would be a good idea? Like driving the rig from Denver at 6000 ft and getting on trails going up all the way to 12000ft.
I'll guess the new Hp at the wheels....238.
BWD injectors LOL BWD = Broke When Delivered LOL
I started mechanics in 68 on Stingray bikes and lawn mowers right around 70 I took into machine work in high school and rebuilt a go-kart engine for myself took a year and I was introduced to head porting in 71 and somewhere late 70s I took a hand at it but all through the 80s and 90s I did head work porting on my own and sold heads built things buy and sell engine parts I know that that Jeep engine is capable of 300 horsepower with proper head work and some compression and a cam head porting takes a long time to do a set of V8 heads can take 40 hours if you're doing it right and doing it meticulous and Blueprinting but it sure does make a difference
Приветствую! Классное видео, большой лайк!
Easy way for Jeep power=LS Swap!
This is the kind of stuff I need to do when I get my hands-on my own motor But I want the possibility of being a little closer 2 350 horse power Before slapping a turbo on it
David Vizard is the absolute top man for engine breathing. The stuff he did with the Austin A Series (Mini) is stunning.
what about the ECM tune?? who's doing that?
Check the throttle body as well. On the newer 4.0's it tapers down bad on the bottom side. Not sure about the older ones.
you mention the importance of checking bearing clearance for crank and pistons, but you don't say what to do if it's OUT of tolerance.
Just because you’re on a budget doesn’t mean it has to look like it. :)
711 dollars is oddly enough the cost of an out of pocket MRI.
Mmmmmm priorities
Plasti gauge? Seriously? Why do you have dial bore gauges and calipers? Much easier and more accurate. Some of the things these guys do on this program defy logic. smh
As a hig school student weekend mornings were spent watching speed TV
THAT is not how you use Plastigage LOL
..it is funny
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Where’s the rest of this series, wanted to see the the house and torque gains
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wouldn't the larger cam reduce dynamic compression making it possible to run 9.6:1?
There is no difference between 9.3 and 9.6. From fuel perspective.
@@juhomaki-petaja Depends on engine design. Certain cylinder head shapes or piston shapes can change where the hot spots are in the cylinder changing what fuel might need to be run. There's no real "use premium at this compression ratio and regular at this one". Every engine is different. An engine with a good cooling system might easily get away with 10:1 compression like the LT1 with reverse cooling where other engines with the exact same geometry (IE earlier small blocks with similar cam) would probably need premium to run 10:1. Smaller cam = lower compression or higher fuel grade since the compression is not being relived by cam overlap IE Dynamic compression.
A cam has no affect on CR? That's pre-determined by your choices in piston, combustion chamber size and gasket thickness, deck height, etc.
@@v.e.7236 there are 2 types of compression ratio
1. Static Compression Ratio - what most people think of and what you have described
2. Dynamic Ratio - Depending on the cam, the intake valve may hang open momentarily as the piston begins the power stroke effectively reducing the stroke and therefore compression
see more here - www.enginebasics.com/Advanced%20Engine%20Tuning/Static%20vs%20Dynamic.html#:~:text=Dynamic%20Compression%20Ratio%20(DCR)%20is,concept%20in%20high%20performance%20engines.&text=Definition%3A%20The%20Compression%20Ratio%20(CR,to%20the%20combustion%20chamber%20volume.
@@jacobvanhalteren7452 You may be confusing cylinder pressure w/ compression ratio. While there may be a slight drop in cylinder pressure, due to valve position, the compression ratio actually increases as RPMs increase w/ overlap. There is a scavenging effect that comes into play w/ that cam design w/ that creates this increase. There is some myth and some science behind what you hear and read about. Be well, sir.
Machine shop prices look like they have stayed the same since the early 1990s. I don't know how they stay open.
Maybe power wash under the hood the, engine and undsrneath well before you pull the engine the power wash again then cleaners before you paint it ..will be much vetter .
So no measuring the forward and backward thrust of the crank then? Lol
It wasn't in the script... 😏
@@vengeanceizmine9878 figures haha
@@Timman57 🤘
I am not an auto mechanic but I would know why lowering the compression ratio and gain more power?
cool to see these builds but personally i don't understand the appeal with black engine bays it's just hard to see what you are doing and where the fecking one cable is going
You guys really know how to keep me coming back.
Why are you lowering compression? More compression is more power.....
prevent knock
Omega Rugal 9,3 vs 9,6:1 no difference and no problems with modern fuel
@@juhomaki-petaja under heavy load it makes a difference
Omega Rugal: How do we manage it here in Europe??? And we had 9,5:1 CR engines in 1970????
@@juhomaki-petaja it depends, my old taurus has 9.8 compression ratio and pings like a tractor under load and with regular gas, premium mitigates the issue
What do you do if your crankshaft main bearing clearance isn’t in spec? Every time I’ve seen you guys do this, it’s always perfect.
Get the crankshaft reground if you have verified the correct size bearings are being used.
No gloves = Bad Idea on the long term... Just saying
why is bearing tolerances very important with plasty gauge?
I am still baffled at jeeps decision to discontinue the 4.0L. It was like the cummins of the gasoline engine! Sounds great, awesome torque, would run forever if you dont EVER over heat them! Inline six......ok you get the point. Stock 4 liter is a good engine but the 4.6 like they are building here is just badass!! I have done a few over the years in YJ's and TJ's that had a blown 2.5L so we did the bigboy swap and man its amazing the difference and how happy our customers were. Believe it or not the swap is very simple to do also! Engine mounts are the only welding you need to do and those almost fall into place on their own! Cant wait to see what this engine puts out that they are building!!
Poor efficiency.
Listen to the engine run, you can hear slight misfires not enough to trigger the misfire monitor to pop a DTC but enough to make it fail tighter 2007 emissions standards. Some 4.0Ls run smoother than others, sometimes even with rotor, cap, wires and plug replacements it still runs a little rough. And with that much raw fuel running through the cat, epa felt that it wont pass, the 3.8L V6 used in 2007 to 2010 ran smoother and had a little more horsepower, but the 4.0L was still superior.
Nice build and really on the cheep side.. can't wait for the dyno 100%
Let it breathe !??! Ha! MAKE IT BREATH !!!
I worked on a mint 2004 4L Cherokee at work today, had an oil leak but that was about it still ran pretty good
The only longevity issue is the loss of zinc in motor oil,but you can use an additive
When you stop and re start tightening with a torque wrench your torque will be off. Why doesnt any of these " know it all" tv shows ever explain the proper use of a torque wrench???
Amen!! You and I seem to be the only ones that caught that. I've read an assload of comments on here just to see how many folks noticed him Double click the torque thereby changing the amount of ft lbs each each bolt. You can watch it tighten down more on his second click. I can't remeber what it was called ?? Static torque or something intelligent either way. I do remember having a bite taken off by my father however, the first time he seen me torquing down a head
I just remembered that I was using my wife's phone haha. She will likely wonder what bone head hacked her account
412👍's up guys thanks again for have fun working for us all
It's a sht box. Why are you painting the engine bay?
When using Plastigage and soft bearings like 77 style, it is important to measure and torque \ compress the Plastigage in a warm area. The plastigage is actually harder than the 77 bearing in cold weather and will dent the bearing and give a false reading
Thanks for the tip
11 months ago was a jeep 4.0 rebuild..
No primer? That's gonna peel.
I would have painted the engine a mid 70s early 80s chrysler medium blue . it would have made the engine pop instead of the boring black paint. I save a bunch of money buying a
3"x3" exhaust pipe connector from oreallys and two 3" x 3" 26 guage adjustable elbows and a 3 " x 24" section of galvinized pipe from menards and a 3" x 3" blue silicone 90° elbow and a K & N cone filter 2" x 4" with a 2.75 inner diameter base for the cold air induction to pass through the panel above the fire wall just below the cawl panel on the passengerside = 77.00 not including tax or the 2 rolls kit of heat resistant wrapping for headers to cover the entire length of the tubing fen the base of the silicone elbow above the trottle body to the fire wall = 45.00 online .
When Jeep built the engine. They used plain oil on the bearings.
Nice work. Wish I never sold my2 door xj
Do we ever find out the dyno results of 2200 spend?
Funny how all these "pro" engine builders double click their torque wrench. Like they don't trust the tool. Like the torque is always different on the second click. Kids.....
Trust but verify.
1st click = trust
2nd click = verify
9.6:1 compression doesn’t need premium 🤣🤦🏻♂️
I run 11:1 with regular pump gas. Just have to retard the timing a few degrees.
@Auto Driven Removing material in the chamber is better, running the correct dish piston is best. NEVER just stack head gaskets or run extremely thick head gaskets to lower compression. You kill quench distance, which is a ton more important than a few tenths of compression. An engine with a tight quench with a little too much compression is much less likely to detonate than an engine with no quench, or more than .040", and lower compression. Hope this helps.
@@jeeplvr2000 That'll work for idle, or normal cruising. Put a load on it at full cylinder pressure and rpm, report back lol. Nothing wrong with it, but It's a bandaid.
Oh it will lol. Considering it's an iron head, and 10.1 is about max...
danny selak ive gambled on 10:1 compression on iron heads and it would ping like hell without race gas. 10.0 is not far away from 9.6 so playing it safe isn’t a bad thing
I've done this to shovelheads. But you do want to polish those surfaces after grinding.
Yup, there will be too much turbulence in the airflow.
47hp from 4.2L ? thats a shity engine....
So, you're using the plasti-gauge to check bearing tolerances ..... what's the process if they're not within specs ?? :-(
Depends on how far out of spec. If it is 0.010 out, you need an oversized set. If it is less, some bearings can be swapped between journals (some cannot, check instructions). Swap them around until they are "matched" and if you cannot make a matched set, you'll need a different kit, or machine work.
You should segment this video. To much info in one video.