4.060 stroke- eagle crank (AMC) scat rods, 4.0 length, NOT 4.2 unless you reduce the pin height in the pistons. DSS makes perfect pistons for these. 4.00 bore. Costs as much as a high quality stock build. If you wanna make serious power, convert the heads over to 8mm LS valves and the rest is OE design. Roller rockers and cam will make it bullet proof. This will yield you a "square" engine where its happiest right at 5.0L. Most guys sleeve the block to 4.00 but you can go .20-30 over in the parent block and still be around 4.6-4.7L.
What a refreshing motor build video! Like you said, it's not this and not that like a lot of your super duper high HP exotic builds. It just goes to show that you listen to what the customer needs/wants, then you do just that while not emptying their wallets for them on non needed parts and labor. You'll make a better reputation for yourself in the long run. I worked for a Jeep Chrysler dealership for almost 10 years and we ALL know that Jeep owners are very brand loyal and if you can earn their trust, they will spend the money and tell their "click" about you. Thanks for just a well explained, specific job based, engine build video!
I live on the Gulf Coast, I wish I could get something like that done here for my Jeep. My Grandfather was an engine builder all his life, and people would travel from other states for his engines back in the 60s. So I know the difference between builders doing it for an income and builders with passion.
I love your approach to keeping it simple and within the parameters of what the engine is really designed for. Those straight 6 engines are great for low end torque no point in attempting to design it for high rpm running. I watched another TH-cam content provider getting some very impressive horsepower and torque from building this stroker engine. I can’t wait to see what kind of dyno numbers this produces. Please do an update video.
I see a new motoiq video with Mike on the thumbnail, I just start smiling. I live in europe, but I wouldn't hesitate Motoiq garage build my F24c stoker. I trust their work, their knowledge and applying that knowledge with comen sense.
The channel The Horsepower Monster covered the world record straight 6 power adder power and NA power runs. Definitely good stuff to watch if you’re a AMC straight 6 guy.
I love your work folks. Have been watching your videos for years now, and everything is SO informative. I don't know much about off-road swaps, but this gives me so much understanding and confidence in what you do that I wouldn't hesitate to give you my car.
Mike, I love how you explain everything. It makes me smile how chill you are! Thank you! I had a few questions... 1) What head casting did you guys use? 2) I've never ported a head, but would like to try with a 4.6 build. Is it OK to do the port work without the aid of a flow bench? 3) Would you consider making a video where you show exactly how to port one of the cylinders on one of these heads? 4} Is this the long rod version of a 4.6/4.7 build? Do the advantages of a longer rod outweigh a shorter piston skirt? 5) What would be the price range for a turnkey version of the engine in this video with all of the surface treatments? Just a rough ballpark is fine. Thanks again!!
1.The head used a TURPY casting, in retrospect, I would have used an Edelbrock head. 2. Ready don't recommend you just try to port a head, it is not an easy art. You can do some simple things like break the edge on the short side radius, blend the bottom cut of your valve job into the bowl, and blend the bowl into the port, all removing small amounts of material, that is pretty safe. 3. We generally don't port heads, we buy pre-ported heads from reputable head people. We do sometimes clean up heads as I explained in #2. 4. Yes, longer rod engines typically rev smoother but have less low-end torque. 5. I think it was something like 7k.
That's really underselling it, a 10:1 setup with a heavily ported head and intake and a cam with 50 thou lift will make almost 330hp and 375tq. I'd imagine 11:1 would put you considerably closer to 350/400. And a better cam might send you well past the mark
Love this content gives me all kinds of ideas for my 454 tow pig build. Thoughts on forced induction on an older-architecture big block intended to tow? It'll have EFI and spark control.
I dropped off a 4.0 and my old 4.2 crank last week at a machine shop. To my surprise he is working on two other strokers. I’d like to know the rod length and wrist pin location on the pistons you used. Great video as usual.
I'm building a 4.0 Jeep stroker. To address the head I'm cutting and welding two 351 Cleveland heads together. This gives the crossflow and much better ports. I would like to punch it out to a 4" bore but I think that would be pushing it so for longevity I will probably bore it enough to clean up the cylinders.
That is interesting for sure. However the Cleveland heads would not be my first choice, the exhaust port design is pretty bad. If you had to have the same bolt spacing, I would look at some of the newer SBF heads.
17:09 It might be done because it is less expensive to build OHV engines that way. Heck, it is even cheaper to build SOHC 2V engines that way, that is why Datsuns were they way they were.
@@marc-oliviercabot3380 It does make them get hotter. It isn't good for all out performance. However, back when there were crab engines, it would preheat the intake to help atomize the fuel. There was no longer a point once multi port fuel injection was in use.
Will you use some wrap/coating to block some of the heat the intake manifold gets from sitting next to the header/exhaust manifold? I always felt like there is a lot of power lost there..
Awesome video/content per usual! super interested to see how this thing turns out? On a side note, have you ever built a honda ew3 engine from an early crx/civic SI? getting ready to tear into mine.
@@motoiq Yep, im very much aware haha! Hasport makes a b-series swap kit but even the lightest b series engine/tranny is gonna be ~200lbs heavier than the stock drivetrain which in an 1800lb fwd car is going to drastically change the character. Anyway, just looking for ideas as i'll be pulling the motor soon for a clutch job.
lol that engine has very little potential. You realize that the 3.6L exhaust manifolds are cast into the cylinder heads right? Not a performance engine, it's a mass production disposable junker.
I have a 4.2 with a 4.0 head and MPI fuel injection. I love the torque, but because of my gearing I spend a lot of time at 3000rpm on the highway. How would this build handle 2-3 hours at 3000rpm? Great content!
As always very informative. I have an XJ 4.7 stroker build on my honey-do list for 2022 since ours is easily north of 200k miles now. I have been hesitant to do the stroker build as ours is a mixed use vehicle that still needs to pass CA emissions tests. Ignoring (ahem, I mean complying with) every other aspect of a CA emissions test process when the sniffer meets the tail pipe could this 4.7 stroker still pass smog? Arguably it's all in the cam profile, but it would be an interesting story to not only see your motor on the chassis dyno for power numbers, but on a smog dyno for emissions numbers.
If it is post 1996, don't they just plug into the OBDII port, look for any obvious smog hacks, and do a pass or fail that way? Anyway, I agree, actually hooking a 4.7 stroker to a smog tester would be interesting.
This is great to see, thanks for sharing. I have a question about WPC treating the bearings, isn't it going to increase hardness hence eliminate the benefits of being more absorbent (comment about the dirt particles in the oil)? Looking forward to the updates on this build. Thanks.
You can have bearings blasted with Moly or Tungsten dry lube without the ceramic balls. That gives the dry film coating without affecting bearing hardness.
Hey Mike for 2jz engine any tips on preventing crank walk? Is it due to the use of very high force pressure plate on single plate clutches? Thanks for your time!
Simply amazing, wanting to WPC Treat and Crio everything but the shipping would be overkill to send the block and stuff to the US and back to Middle East...
I think they couldn't keep the 4.0 inline smog legal, that's why the Wrangler lost it in 2007. The 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee lost in in 2005, because fitting a V6 and and a V8 under the hood is easier than fitting an inline six, so goodbye. Many cars lost an inline six because the company wanted to save space. As much as I hate the MKV Toyota Supra, I at least like that it still has an inline six.
@@skylinefever I think it had more to do with money. Switching to an engine that was used in other Mopar vehicles let them close an entire engine production line and eliminate the costs associated with it. They could have redesigned the head and met emissions. A canted valve head will give a combustion chamber shape just as efficient as an overhead cam engine.
@skylinefever i agree that packaging probably was a factor. A V engine let's them shorten the engine bay and increase interior room without making the vehicle longer and heavier.
I’m curious to know how this engine is doing now after 2 years. I’ve owned a Jeep Stroker engine for a long time and I’ve seen a lot of things. I found that using beehive springs, “as the cam manufacturer recommended”, caused my engine to devour camshafts like it was on a mission! I finally figured out that going back to stock springs fixed this issue. The two camshafts that were devoured floated debris into my main bearings and opened up my mains until I lost oil pressure at idle. I recently had the crank turned and the block line honed again and am in the process of building my stroker back. Used arp main studs and head studs and I will definitely not be using high valve spring pressures. The way I see it, if my engine is not going to turn over stock rpm then it is not going to float valves.. just curious if the owner of this engine is still running it and still happy after two years?
I don't know what your lashup is or what your cam manufacture recommended vs what got put in their but our engines last as long as they are set up and tuned right.
@@motoiq thanks for the reply! I really enjoy watching your videos and wish I had the money to have you build me some Subaru engines. Maybe one day I will!
The first thing I would check if it was eating cams up is the installed height and the coil bind height to see if that was set right. Also, did you confirm the seat and open pressures? If you used the exact same springs that the cam manufacturer recommended and it ate the cams, the first thing was the lifters new? Old lifters on new cams are bad, then beehive springs could mean anything, this just describes the shape. If they were the exact right springs, was the installed height confirmed? Was the coil bind height confirmed as on the engine with the confirmed rocker ratio and correct rocker geometry? This is all the stuff that your typical home builder skips. Not saying you did but most do and this is the biggest cause of valvetrain issues in home-built engines.
@@motoiq I had all my original head work done by a legitimate machine shop and I was there when he checked all the spring pressures and coil bind heights. New cam and lifters both times, correct break in procedures, etc etc. I’ve been an automotive technician for 20 plus years and graduated from Nascar Technical Institute in 2005. One of the other things I’ve found doing research on Jeep aftermarket camshafts is the lobe width. The factory 4.0 camshaft is a lot wider than any aftermarket grind you can get. I think the increased spring pressure on top of the narrower lobe width on the aftermarket cams was causing the issue. Both cams that died were from Competition Cams. I went back with a stock 4.0 HO cam and stock springs the last time and had no cam wear problems. The engine was very strong and had zero noise when it lost idle oil pressure. I triple checked it with a manual gauge and it was zero at idle but would come up to around 20-25 psi with rpm. I decided to remove the engine and go through it before something bad happened and found severely worn main bearings. Clearances of .006” in the middle journals and .004 near the outer ones. I believe the metal from the worn cam lobes eventually wiped out my mains. When I put it back together this time I’m going with a better cam company. It’s in the process of being a great engine this time around. Waiting on the $ to finish it! The Jeep it’s in is on some of my earlier TH-cam videos. I love the stroker torque and power from low end! It makes me smile when I can outrun a stock Jeep while being over 500-800 lbs heavier and also hauling a trailer. My Jeep is a 88 2door Cherokee Laredo sport. 3.73 gear ratio on 31x10.50x15 with 3” of lift. Automatic swapped it back in 2013 due to the 5 speed breaking the output shaft twice. Pugeot transmission and I beat on it pretty hard. Overall I love my Jeep and It will eventually be on the road again. Thanks so much for replying to my comments! You have an amazing channel and I’ve been watching all your videos. Keep up the great work!
Did you consider multcounterweight crank? how long the rods? what compression ht? whose pistons? how much quench. deck clearance gasket thickness what dampener very important I use a 256 at .006 204@.050 and 305 lobe lift intake exhaust lobe depending on headers 10:1 is a lot for a short cam have you tried the AMC extended tip plugs? radius ex seats- nice .050 flow is important Try 30 degree intake seats Hesco vs Edelbrock Beehive or tapered springs? still 3/8 stem? NICE VIDEO I do not like the short rod stock piston builds piston way down the hole cheers
I’m about to wpc treat my dinner at this rate. But it does make me question how much it costs. Plus they probably treat all parts at once anyways, good stuff.
Why use the 4.2 head? It flows like ass and so does the exhaust, where you saving egr? And what rockers did you end up doing? Id assume some sort of roller?
Is bumping off the rev limiter while climbing up a sand dune, rock pile or snow wheeling considered high rpm? Or is it because the inline 6 has a redline of only 5200-5300rpm is what makes it not high revving?
@@motoiq my buddies joke I have "inertia lockers" because I was using the rev limiter so much but was able to finesse at the right moments to have enough momentum to carry through the obstacle and get places I shouldn't have been but without breaking the jeep or body damage in the process. I got to be a trail leader in Ultimate Adventure 2006 (Peterson's 4wd and off-road) when they came to Idaho. Loads of fun. I really am glad I stumbled into your channel. I like the way you explain everything and you have a joy and passion for what you do. Very informative and entertaining, thank you
Can you do another ls for a K.O.H low budget like your 650 hp build. A crawler motor if you will. and why do you not post the parts cost or build cost if you do the whole thing.
Would adding Nitriding into the process of working over a crankshaft provide any benefit, on top of cryo and WPC? Like my Honda crank for example; I was advised to have it re-nitrided after knifing and lightening. Would nitriding interfere with cryo treatment or visa versa?
Nitriding give a hard wear resistant surface. If your Honda crank journals were not touched, it doesn't need to be re-nitrided. I would Nitride then Cryo and WPC.
you may hav been aware nz had australian made chryslers played a huge part in the late 60's to 80's ,then chrysler jeeps were another boost to nzrs wanting a mopar product again during the 1990s onward , inline 6cyl stock lift maybe 250 'inch lift ,E370,E380,E490 Performance cams.
So currently in 2023 money what would be the price range for a build like this? I’m getting close to needing to replace my 4.0 and I’m not interested in a LS mod. I’d like to keep the six banger.
This man makes me wanna WPC treat everything. Like imma start WPC treating my silverware for 20% increased fork load bearing capacity.
Food will stick less
@@motoiq what about WPC treating blades?
I WPC’d my whole interior.
🤡😂😂
WPC my Prius Primes engine and transmission internals for 5mpg's... lol i would be game!
This channel is so underrated. Every video is incredibly informative, please keep it up guys!
You are sooooo RIGHT!!!!
this is my first time on this channel and not my last..
great information about building with different ideas for internal set-ups..
I'd love to see a full write-up on this. Parts list and processes.
Same, I didn't catch of he used the 258 rod or 4.0.
Great vid, but for us Jeep guys, it's the math that we wanna see, lol.
4.060 stroke- eagle crank (AMC) scat rods, 4.0 length, NOT 4.2 unless you reduce the pin height in the pistons. DSS makes perfect pistons for these. 4.00 bore. Costs as much as a high quality stock build. If you wanna make serious power, convert the heads over to 8mm LS valves and the rest is OE design. Roller rockers and cam will make it bullet proof. This will yield you a "square" engine where its happiest right at 5.0L. Most guys sleeve the block to 4.00 but you can go .20-30 over in the parent block and still be around 4.6-4.7L.
Take a drink every time he says it isn't going to rev and that it isn't a race engine. 🤣😂 Keep up the content guys!
I see you to like to party!! 🇺🇸🍻
This is the best video on a 4.7 stroker for jeep xj's I've seen in a decade.
Best video on 4.7 stroker for Jeep XJ I've seen in a decade as well
Im hoping to see a dyno of this motor vs stock once its completed!!!
Everyone builds these motors then never give a final dyno or turn on the engine which is stupid
Iv never seen any other engine builder know as much about engines and resonance like u do I’m thoroughly impressed
A lot of them are smart! They just don't do videos.
This guy explains everything so well!! And he is always smiling!!!
One of the tightest builds I’ve seen on a 4.0
Excellent job. And thanks for the in depth breakdown
What a refreshing motor build video!
Like you said, it's not this and not that like a lot of your super duper high HP exotic builds. It just goes to show that you listen to what the customer needs/wants, then you do just that while not emptying their wallets for them on non needed parts and labor. You'll make a better reputation for yourself in the long run.
I worked for a Jeep Chrysler dealership for almost 10 years and we ALL know that Jeep owners are very brand loyal and if you can earn their trust, they will spend the money and tell their "click" about you.
Thanks for just a well explained, specific job based, engine build video!
Thank you!
It will be nice to know all the changes that you are making on this built in detail for reference. Thanks
This is awesome. One can only take so many turbo LS swaps.
truth
I’m a simple man. I see Moto IQ videos by Mike, I click LIKE and watch closely. 🙌🔧😎
I live on the Gulf Coast, I wish I could get something like that done here for my Jeep. My Grandfather was an engine builder all his life, and people would travel from other states for his engines back in the 60s. So I know the difference between builders doing it for an income and builders with passion.
I love your approach to keeping it simple and within the parameters of what the engine is really designed for. Those straight 6 engines are great for low end torque no point in attempting to design it for high rpm running. I watched another TH-cam content provider getting some very impressive horsepower and torque from building this stroker engine. I can’t wait to see what kind of dyno numbers this produces. Please do an update video.
I see a new motoiq video with Mike on the thumbnail, I just start smiling. I live in europe, but I wouldn't hesitate Motoiq garage build my F24c stoker. I trust their work, their knowledge and applying that knowledge with comen sense.
Sick video! Checking your website now
The channel The Horsepower Monster covered the world record straight 6 power adder power and NA power runs. Definitely good stuff to watch if you’re a AMC straight 6 guy.
That wasn't the world record btw
I've got over 400k miles on my 99 XJ 4.0I6. You've got a new sub for this video alone! Love this!! Thank you!
I love your work folks. Have been watching your videos for years now, and everything is SO informative. I don't know much about off-road swaps, but this gives me so much understanding and confidence in what you do that I wouldn't hesitate to give you my car.
Great Video like the way you explain in simple language, and I like the WPC treatment
Thanks
I had one of Bob Stone's class 6/8 AMC Pacer. It originally had a roller crank 390 stroker.
Mike, I love how you explain everything. It makes me smile how chill you are! Thank you! I had a few questions...
1) What head casting did you guys use?
2) I've never ported a head, but would like to try with a 4.6 build. Is it OK to do the port work without the aid of a flow bench?
3) Would you consider making a video where you show exactly how to port one of the cylinders on one of these heads?
4} Is this the long rod version of a 4.6/4.7 build? Do the advantages of a longer rod outweigh a shorter piston skirt?
5) What would be the price range for a turnkey version of the engine in this video with all of the surface treatments? Just a rough ballpark is fine.
Thanks again!!
1.The head used a TURPY casting, in retrospect, I would have used an Edelbrock head. 2. Ready don't recommend you just try to port a head, it is not an easy art. You can do some simple things like break the edge on the short side radius, blend the bottom cut of your valve job into the bowl, and blend the bowl into the port, all removing small amounts of material, that is pretty safe. 3. We generally don't port heads, we buy pre-ported heads from reputable head people. We do sometimes clean up heads as I explained in #2. 4. Yes, longer rod engines typically rev smoother but have less low-end torque. 5. I think it was something like 7k.
Thanks so much!
I never thought about how the quench area squirts air and causes better mixing.
Very well done. We need more. Keep up the good work. Thank you. TD
So knowledgeable, and you speak so plainly I can keep up. Can a motor build like this be considered a bullet proof daily driver?
For sure.
I think you would have to go to incredible extremes to make a Jeep inline that wasn't a bulletproof daily driver.
Very informative what type of beehive springs do you use?I would like to put some on my stroker 4.0
Dream Pineapple Head Built Engine!
LV1/3 4.3 LTV6
We have to see this thing on the dyno, gotta know how much power this thing makes with the cryo and wpc treatment
Cryo and WPC are mostly for durability, the power improvements will be pretty minor
lmfao how do you suppose cryo treating increases power???
@@FUCK_________googIe reduces friction
This man is always so dam happy lol i would be too if I was working I’m a shop like that haha
Love the build, please keep us posted.
i Smashed that like button! shared and commented for the algorithm !
With around 11:1:0 compression, mild cam, & good head-flow you can have a solid 300hp 4.7L with lots of torque.
That's really underselling it, a 10:1 setup with a heavily ported head and intake and a cam with 50 thou lift will make almost 330hp and 375tq. I'd imagine 11:1 would put you considerably closer to 350/400. And a better cam might send you well past the mark
@@FUCK_________googIe. Depends on the cam size, but I wouldn’t want to go to big on the intake side and loose the bottom end.
@@bri-manhunter2654 true
would really be interested if wpc treating the lifters helps with the noise that 4.0l's are known for
Probably not.
Love this channel! Keep it up pal.
Thanks for an awesome informative video.
Love this content gives me all kinds of ideas for my 454 tow pig build. Thoughts on forced induction on an older-architecture big block intended to tow? It'll have EFI and spark control.
It's fine as long as you use components that are strong enough.
Great job Mike!
Very informative video great job
good stuff. hope you can do a b58 engine one day
We can easily build one of those for 1000 hp.
I dropped off a 4.0 and my old 4.2 crank last week at a machine shop. To my surprise he is working on two other strokers. I’d like to know the rod length and wrist pin location on the pistons you used. Great video as usual.
Heck ya ..love it ..this is what i like❤
I'm building a 4.0 Jeep stroker. To address the head I'm cutting and welding two 351 Cleveland heads together. This gives the crossflow and much better ports. I would like to punch it out to a 4" bore but I think that would be pushing it so for longevity I will probably bore it enough to clean up the cylinders.
That is interesting for sure. However the Cleveland heads would not be my first choice, the exhaust port design is pretty bad. If you had to have the same bolt spacing, I would look at some of the newer SBF heads.
Did you have the lifters WPC treated as well?
Yes
17:09 It might be done because it is less expensive to build OHV engines that way. Heck, it is even cheaper to build SOHC 2V engines that way, that is why Datsuns were they way they were.
Always tought it made the intake manifolds run hot as fuck and therefore, loose some power.. better coat those manifolds Mike!
@@marc-oliviercabot3380 It does make them get hotter. It isn't good for all out performance. However, back when there were crab engines, it would preheat the intake to help atomize the fuel. There was no longer a point once multi port fuel injection was in use.
@@skylinefever Forgot about the fact that those were carb'ed once upon a time.
Will you use some wrap/coating to block some of the heat the intake manifold gets from sitting next to the header/exhaust manifold? I always felt like there is a lot of power lost there..
Maybe make a heat shield
About what would it cost to do this setup on a 05 engine with under 90,000 miles on it.
Is the redline the same as stock or slightly higher?
Awesome video/content per usual! super interested to see how this thing turns out?
On a side note, have you ever built a honda ew3 engine from an early crx/civic SI? getting ready to tear into mine.
No, there is like zero interest in that engine and no aftermarket support.
@@motoiq Yep, im very much aware haha! Hasport makes a b-series swap kit but even the lightest b series engine/tranny is gonna be ~200lbs heavier than the stock drivetrain which in an 1800lb fwd car is going to drastically change the character. Anyway, just looking for ideas as i'll be pulling the motor soon for a clutch job.
Great content
I want to see WAY more on jeep engines maybe the 3.6L pentastar 3rd gen!
Please 🙏
lol that engine has very little potential. You realize that the 3.6L exhaust manifolds are cast into the cylinder heads right? Not a performance engine, it's a mass production disposable junker.
I have a 4.2 with a 4.0 head and MPI fuel injection. I love the torque, but because of my gearing I spend a lot of time at 3000rpm on the highway. How would this build handle 2-3 hours at 3000rpm? Great content!
As always very informative. I have an XJ 4.7 stroker build on my honey-do list for 2022 since ours is easily north of 200k miles now. I have been hesitant to do the stroker build as ours is a mixed use vehicle that still needs to pass CA emissions tests. Ignoring (ahem, I mean complying with) every other aspect of a CA emissions test process when the sniffer meets the tail pipe could this 4.7 stroker still pass smog? Arguably it's all in the cam profile, but it would be an interesting story to not only see your motor on the chassis dyno for power numbers, but on a smog dyno for emissions numbers.
Do a LS swap. Look up the CARB legal LS kits or purchase a complete emissions system for the LS.
Like the GM Performance EROD engines that are CARB approved.
If you kept all the stock emissions intact it would probably pass a sniffer test but by the letter of the law, this is not legal.
E-rod kits are only CARB legal on 1994 and older vehicles
If it is post 1996, don't they just plug into the OBDII port, look for any obvious smog hacks, and do a pass or fail that way? Anyway, I agree, actually hooking a 4.7 stroker to a smog tester would be interesting.
This is great to see, thanks for sharing. I have a question about WPC treating the bearings, isn't it going to increase hardness hence eliminate the benefits of being more absorbent (comment about the dirt particles in the oil)? Looking forward to the updates on this build. Thanks.
Racing bearings also have a hard, thin outer layer and are not as good for embedding dirt as well.
You can have bearings blasted with Moly or Tungsten dry lube without the ceramic balls. That gives the dry film coating without affecting bearing hardness.
What lift dose the cam have? What is the clearance between the piston and valve?
Hey Mike for 2jz engine any tips on preventing crank walk? Is it due to the use of very high force pressure plate on single plate clutches? Thanks for your time!
Run a twin disc.
@@motoiq oh ok, thanks for your time!
Damn . . . I thought y'all were stroking the 4.7L OHC V8. Now _That_ would be awesome.
Can you all sell a kit of your all build with wpc ?
Excellent
Simply amazing, wanting to WPC Treat and Crio everything but the shipping would be overkill to send the block and stuff to the US and back to Middle East...
I wonder if they're going to be revving and using this as a racing rod
We said no in the video
Super love this.
WPC treating does not increase the thickness ?
No
It’s a bummer Jeep ditched these low end torque monsters. My 4.0 was night and day easier to drive and crawl then the new 3.6.
I think they couldn't keep the 4.0 inline smog legal, that's why the Wrangler lost it in 2007. The 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee lost in in 2005, because fitting a V6 and and a V8 under the hood is easier than fitting an inline six, so goodbye.
Many cars lost an inline six because the company wanted to save space. As much as I hate the MKV Toyota Supra, I at least like that it still has an inline six.
why they had to go with 8 speed trans to get the revs and torque up
@@skylinefever I think it had more to do with money. Switching to an engine that was used in other Mopar vehicles let them close an entire engine production line and eliminate the costs associated with it.
They could have redesigned the head and met emissions. A canted valve head will give a combustion chamber shape just as efficient as an overhead cam engine.
@@Fulcrum205 Eliminating assembly lines may have been one of multiple reasons. I see your point.
@skylinefever i agree that packaging probably was a factor. A V engine let's them shorten the engine bay and increase interior room without making the vehicle longer and heavier.
video would be much better if part numbers or better yet links posted in info.
Do you mind sharing the rod number used? You can use the shorter 258 or longer 4.0 rods.
Thanks!
It's a complete kit with the crank from Scat
I’m curious to know how this engine is doing now after 2 years. I’ve owned a Jeep Stroker engine for a long time and I’ve seen a lot of things. I found that using beehive springs, “as the cam manufacturer recommended”, caused my engine to devour camshafts like it was on a mission! I finally figured out that going back to stock springs fixed this issue. The two camshafts that were devoured floated debris into my main bearings and opened up my mains until I lost oil pressure at idle. I recently had the crank turned and the block line honed again and am in the process of building my stroker back. Used arp main studs and head studs and I will definitely not be using high valve spring pressures. The way I see it, if my engine is not going to turn over stock rpm then it is not going to float valves.. just curious if the owner of this engine is still running it and still happy after two years?
I don't know what your lashup is or what your cam manufacture recommended vs what got put in their but our engines last as long as they are set up and tuned right.
@@motoiq thanks for the reply! I really enjoy watching your videos and wish I had the money to have you build me some Subaru engines. Maybe one day I will!
The first thing I would check if it was eating cams up is the installed height and the coil bind height to see if that was set right. Also, did you confirm the seat and open pressures? If you used the exact same springs that the cam manufacturer recommended and it ate the cams, the first thing was the lifters new? Old lifters on new cams are bad, then beehive springs could mean anything, this just describes the shape. If they were the exact right springs, was the installed height confirmed? Was the coil bind height confirmed as on the engine with the confirmed rocker ratio and correct rocker geometry? This is all the stuff that your typical home builder skips. Not saying you did but most do and this is the biggest cause of valvetrain issues in home-built engines.
@@motoiq I had all my original head work done by a legitimate machine shop and I was there when he checked all the spring pressures and coil bind heights. New cam and lifters both times, correct break in procedures, etc etc. I’ve been an automotive technician for 20 plus years and graduated from Nascar Technical Institute in 2005. One of the other things I’ve found doing research on Jeep aftermarket camshafts is the lobe width. The factory 4.0 camshaft is a lot wider than any aftermarket grind you can get. I think the increased spring pressure on top of the narrower lobe width on the aftermarket cams was causing the issue. Both cams that died were from Competition Cams. I went back with a stock 4.0 HO cam and stock springs the last time and had no cam wear problems. The engine was very strong and had zero noise when it lost idle oil pressure. I triple checked it with a manual gauge and it was zero at idle but would come up to around 20-25 psi with rpm. I decided to remove the engine and go through it before something bad happened and found severely worn main bearings. Clearances of .006” in the middle journals and .004 near the outer ones. I believe the metal from the worn cam lobes eventually wiped out my mains. When I put it back together this time I’m going with a better cam company. It’s in the process of being a great engine this time around. Waiting on the $ to finish it! The Jeep it’s in is on some of my earlier TH-cam videos. I love the stroker torque and power from low end! It makes me smile when I can outrun a stock Jeep while being over 500-800 lbs heavier and also hauling a trailer. My Jeep is a 88 2door Cherokee Laredo sport. 3.73 gear ratio on 31x10.50x15 with 3” of lift. Automatic swapped it back in 2013 due to the 5 speed breaking the output shaft twice. Pugeot transmission and I beat on it pretty hard. Overall I love my Jeep and It will eventually be on the road again. Thanks so much for replying to my comments! You have an amazing channel and I’ve been watching all your videos. Keep up the great work!
What’s the cost on a built like this and what did the dyno chart end up looking like?
Good teacher.
Everytime he says wpc treated, I think of Adam Sandler saying " you can hide your weed in there" 🤣🤣🤣 love the informative video all joking aside
When is the next episode in this series?
Did you consider multcounterweight crank? how long the rods? what compression ht? whose pistons? how much quench. deck clearance gasket thickness what dampener very important I use a 256 at .006 204@.050 and 305 lobe lift intake exhaust lobe depending on headers 10:1 is a lot for a short cam have you tried the AMC extended tip plugs? radius ex seats- nice .050 flow is important Try 30 degree intake seats
Hesco vs Edelbrock Beehive or tapered springs? still 3/8 stem? NICE VIDEO I do not like the short rod stock piston builds piston way down the hole cheers
for a economy low end engine you don't need a lot of that.
@@motoiq a lot of what? i use the counterweighted crank for rock crawling and the light crank for say sand drags cheers
Nice stuff. This was not a racing engine.
I’m about to wpc treat my dinner at this rate. But it does make me question how much it costs. Plus they probably treat all parts at once anyways, good stuff.
Why use the 4.2 head? It flows like ass and so does the exhaust, where you saving egr? And what rockers did you end up doing? Id assume some sort of roller?
Are the bushed rods off the shelf? I can only find press fit.
Yes from Scat
That cam sounds like it would be awesome, I want one!! Any details on the part number,is it Custom grind??
Yes it is
@@motoiq From? Brian Crower?
I love this videos.
Is bumping off the rev limiter while climbing up a sand dune, rock pile or snow wheeling considered high rpm? Or is it because the inline 6 has a redline of only 5200-5300rpm is what makes it not high revving?
The latter, the engine is designed for torque and the head doesnt flow well enough for high RPM power, even when ported.
@@motoiq my buddies joke I have "inertia lockers" because I was using the rev limiter so much but was able to finesse at the right moments to have enough momentum to carry through the obstacle and get places I shouldn't have been but without breaking the jeep or body damage in the process. I got to be a trail leader in Ultimate Adventure 2006 (Peterson's 4wd and off-road) when they came to Idaho.
Loads of fun.
I really am glad I stumbled into your channel. I like the way you explain everything and you have a joy and passion for what you do. Very informative and entertaining, thank you
I bet getting on the limiter works like a kind of traction control!
did you dyno this beauty? how much would something like this cost.
Engine is gone to customer.
@@motoiq how would I find out the cost of this build?
Is there a build sheet/details on this motor
I guess there is this whole video that you didn't watch.
As a brand new watcher what does WPC stand for?
Jinglish, wonder metal process company
Love the video
Does WPC treatment reduce embedability
No
Get Allen Millyard to hacksaw and weld together a 24 valve head for a jeep or 300 ford. I would be interested in 300 inline six content..
The Jeep engine is a much better design than the Ford 300
Can you do another ls for a K.O.H low budget like your 650 hp build. A crawler motor if you will. and why do you not post the parts cost or build cost if you do the whole thing.
Allot of variables in building an engine like that. That's why it's best to send them an email to get a quote.
For off road where you need to go slow like K.O.H. you wont be making 650 hp because the engine will be build for low end torque.
Would adding Nitriding into the process of working over a crankshaft provide any benefit, on top of cryo and WPC?
Like my Honda crank for example; I was advised to have it re-nitrided after knifing and lightening.
Would nitriding interfere with cryo treatment or visa versa?
Nitriding give a hard wear resistant surface. If your Honda crank journals were not touched, it doesn't need to be re-nitrided. I would Nitride then Cryo and WPC.
@@motoiq - 🙏Thank you for replying.
Does cryo treatment need to be done before WPC?
@@tommylyeah yes it should be done first.
@@motoiq - Thank you.
Next can you do 1uz vvti? just for fun
kool motolQ HI im from nz , i did own a jeep 1997
Hey how much does this cost if I send you my wrangler engine ?
you may hav been aware nz had australian made chryslers played a huge part in the late 60's to 80's ,then chrysler jeeps were another boost to nzrs wanting a mopar product again during the 1990s onward , inline 6cyl stock lift maybe 250 'inch lift ,E370,E380,E490 Performance cams.
It's an ols school tractor engine built to go slow forever it's perfect.
Where can I get one of those multi level rolling racks(gray) behind him?
McMaster Carr
Did you guys dyno this?
No the customer took it and we never heard back from him. We think he is still building his jeep.
So currently in 2023 money what would be the price range for a build like this? I’m getting close to needing to replace my 4.0 and I’m not interested in a LS mod. I’d like to keep the six banger.
I’ll do wpc my pads and rotor
That is not recommended, there are some benefits for Cryo treating.
@@motoiqI’m just kidding
So you’ve been clear that this isn’t meant to rev, but where do you expect the torque and power peaks to be?
something like 3k and 5k
I have but one question: will it rev to the moon? :)
Diamond heads
Maybe around the block.
There is some race series in South America (I think Argentina) that make race motors out of these and they rev to 9-10k rpm if I remember correctly.
so where is the dyno sheet?
We need a 2022 WRX Build.
as you said jeep or chrysler inline 6 cyls were very torquey 4k 5 k rpm
How mych does WPC cost? Thanks
google is your friend