Rope management on a multi-pitch belay
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 มี.ค. 2021
- Here's a long requested video, this is all about how to keep your rope in check while belaying your second up and some thoughts on things to consider on how to belay them up on the second pitch.
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Came within about 2' of stepping on a 6+ foot gopher snake in WY. He was right at the base of the climbing wall. Heard a little girl screaming, realized it was me....lol. Great video, Ryan.
Most useful video I've watched on this subject. Thank you!
Great vid. Thanks kindly. Video note: using a mic windsock will greatly improve your video quality.
After lap coiling what I like to do is placing it on an arm of the quad with an alpine QuickDraw that way my leap is clear
Great video, thanks!
Thanks for making this video man :)
Thanks a lot! I would love to see that with twin or two half ropes :)
Or any tipps on rope management with two strands at the belay station.
Ya I'm planning on making a different video about climbing in groups of three that would touch on managing two ropes going into the belay station.
From my few experiences, a hard part of management is the transition to the next phase of leading. Nearly every time some element is on the wrong side: either the climber, belay device/ my clove, the rope pile, or like you said, dealing with lap coils. I don't get enough opportunities to straighten out these details and then there's often cramped position switching, or an awkward lead belay. My advice, take an extra minute when making your anchor and taking in rope with the consideration of where the 2nd with stand and where the next pitch goes. Taking wife for her first multipitch to CoR and it'll be my first time not switching leads --- hoping to avoid rope troubles with the flip
How’d it go? Seems like the rope flip could be a major time saver, but if not done properly would be faster to just restack the rope
@@Chris-Wernette right. I think I had to lap coil and just re-did it where both of us are working to make it organized. Anything more than 2 pitches will go smoother as you go.
Thanks for your sharing
Good tips i'm doing my first 10+ pitch with my dad next week
Dude you rock! thanks for making this video!!
magnetron FTW
What were you using the gri gri for??
Thanks for a recap!;) Was that a rattlesnake?
No, that was just a big gopher snake, but it would still do some damage if you got bitten!
I find because my partner and I remain tied in that coils are inevitable when lap coiling especially. They usually rear their ugly heads when giving belay at the 2nd pitch as slack is fed. Are there any tips to avoid that? It frustrates the sh!t out of me. Thanks.
If you're taking a grigri up with you anyways, why wouldn't you use that as your top belay device, instead of the atc? When your climber reaches the anchor, you can just hot swap the grigri from the quad to your harness and your climber is on belay.
Also, is this Vantage?
This is Vantage, one thing you can do to make the system more effect is use the ATC to belay the climber up and clip the grigri into the break strand then clip that to your belay loop. After that all you have to do is take add a directional and take the atc out of the rope. The main reason I use the ATC for belay from above is it avoid certain downfalls that the Grigri could have (depending on the anchor.) I have a couple of other videos where I talk about the pros and cons.
I don't think I fully understand Ryan, why is the Bermuda triangle situation a bad thing? 3:33 Thanks in advance!
I am not certain but I think it is more of an annoyance thing rather than something that is actually an issue of safety
Pretty sure it has to do with people or gear going up and through it, which can create big tangling problems when you're setting up for the next lead. I just know that's what I've experienced in similar situations. Not 100% certain that's the reason for the name though
Ya you guys are on the right track, it's a point of neatness to keep other climbers or other ropes from going through that triangle. It may seem trivial but the little things will add up when it comes to rope management.
Curious question, I came across your video trying to settle a debate with a buddy.
Some like to stack the rope on itself, and if leading again "flip" the whole rope over itself.
This is what you seem to do, stack each coil on top of the previous in a hanging belay.
The method on this Outdoor Research video
th-cam.com/video/iWMMX0ssGig/w-d-xo.html
(which I prefer) is to stack the coils up the climbers tie in "towards your tie in" or cloved biner.
Then if I planned to lead twice (two climber party) and needed to hand off to second, I could simply lift and rotate it.
Both methods seem acceptable for a single rope, maybe "towards the tie in" is best for two / double ropes?
Are you in WA?
Ya this is at Vantage WA
I knew that I recognized that view and the road behind. The feathers?@@ryantilley9063
Another way if you are going in direct with a PAS instead of clove hitch is to just switch figure eights knots with your partner if the leader is going to lead a block of pitches instead of switching. Then you dont need to pancake flip or reflake the rope which are slower methods.
I've definitely had times where this is far faster
Reach arounds can get awkward..