INSTALL A GAUGE TO ALWAYS MONITOR YOUR PRESSURE 0-15psi GAUGE(needs cheap adapter below): amzn.to/2UBLqCV Adapter to allow gauge to hook to heater: amzn.to/37enCaI Install a thermostat to stay comfortable and save fuel: amzn.to/2b2qj2h Keep yourself safe with a carbon monoxide detector: amzn.to/2b7h6Yr Ignition Module I used in the video amzn.to/3kWVCiD GHP 39E0-0008-00( any 39E0-00**-** will work the same (the length of the leads is the only difference in model numbers). The one I bought must have been on clearance as it was cheaper than what these are now. If you're replacing a single wire ignitor with one of these 2 spark plug lead wires units; ONE lead will hook to the existing spark plug and the other lead will ground out to the frame or housing that makes electrical contact with the outside(threads) of the spark plug. You can flatten out the end and put a screw in it or something similar. This differs from what I did in the video.
@@ktcopyguy You can take apart the pump and make sure the vanes are in good condition. You can also just remove the filter to test if it makes a difference.
Yes!!!! Thank you for no obnoxious logo splash and intro music for 20 seconds. No wasting our time telling us about your week. I wish ALL vids were like this! Thanks. Great info, too!
Woke up in the middle of the night and couldn't sleep so I got up and started rummaging around on Ytube. Forget which videos I started with but pretty soon I noticed a pattern: most of the videos I was choosing were by this 'sixtyfiveford' guy and they were great. Unfortunately, I didn't up thumb them. Then I saw this one with the picture of the Reddy Heater 55 which I have owned for about 2 or 3 decades. To start mine I have to enrich the mixture a bit by blocking the air intake with a piece of paper for 1 second then it runs well. This video has encouraged me to get into it and set it up properly. And up thumb this video! Thank you, sir sixtyfiveford!!
Just wanted to thank you for your video. I have the reddy heater 55 also, although mine uses a glow igniter. I went through and checked each of the areas you mentioned. Everything seemed to be working individually (glow, fuel, air), but my issue was that my heater would run for 30 seconds to a minute then shut down. I finally pulled the fuel line and blew down into the tank to clear it. When I did, fuel came back up through the line??? So, I figured that the tank was pressurizing. Come to find out, the breather hole in the fuel filler cap had debris and rust in it that clogged it shut preventing the heater from drawing fuel because of the vacuum it created after a minute or so. Just thought I'd share in case someone else could use the info.
Good catch I had same problem with the fuel cap on my snowblower , my older heater started to quit after about a minute haven't used it for years I just thought it would-be a bad over temperature sensor so there it sits thanks , sometime I'll give everything a good cleaning .
Excellent video, not a lot of fluff and you get right to the point. My heater quit lighting off last winter, had to throw a rag over the back of it (put on the choke?) to get it started. Did a complete tune up on it today and your information really was a big help in figuring out how the heater basically works. My heater actually had a crack in the plastic air pump back housing, losing pressure. Sealed it up, adjusted the pressure, new spark plug and filter, general cleaning - works like new. Thanks for the video!
7:25 I did too, but then nine months later our daughter came along. Great video. I thought I had done everything to get my old Homelite 65K BTU running again. It works, but could be alot better. It doesn't get nearly as hot as it should. I made sure all the plumbing was good and clear, fuel strainer screen was clean, impeller gap was set, everything save for checking the pump pressure since I didn't have a gauge. I knew the problem was either the impeller and its vanes were just too worn, the pressure bleedoff screw threads were too loose (or spring just no good), or the nozzle had an obstruction that carb cleaner and compressed air couldn't free up. After watching your video, I dug out my old Penske vacuum gauge and sure enough, 10PSI pressure range in .5PSI increments, widely spaced. Hooked it up and it did the trick. Pressure was too high so I set it to 4.0PSI since that was the closest I could estimate without being able to source a manual anywhere for this heater, and now I know both the pump assembly and bleedoff screw assembly are both good and that the problem is the nozzle. Now time to source a replacement for an obscure heater manufactured in 1973.....
@@gittyupalice96 I also thought the same, but I am glad he hasn't, I had a hand in plaster for eight weeks and a further six weeks physiotherapy and it was not fun, try opening a tin of soup, even if it does have a ring pull, made me appreciate just how important hands are, and how easy they are to damage, great video by the way and answered my problem, take care and stay safe everybody.
My heater was lighting very lazily and sometimes misfiring and smoking out my garage, I use diesel too so it's bad!!! I adjusted the air pressure after watching this video just like you did and woof! It fired up and is running better than ever! Huge shout out to you for making this video, I was about to throw it in the trash
This helped. I've been soaking the fuel tank of my Reddy Heater 79 in Evapo Rust and tumbling with nuts and bolts to remove rust from the interior of the tank. I was not sure how fuel was drawn in but now it's all clear. Thank you for creating this video.
Thanks so much for all the things you do for so many on here.It really helps people out when you show what to do about certain situations.your a real nice man.
Thanks! I have a different make and model (Thermoheat) but it's the SAME setup inside. Now that I understand the fuel/air system I'll look closer at the air filters and fuel quality to explain my puff of smoke. It's much better but not right after cleaning the the fuel filter/jet.
I'm 1:40 in and this has been amazingly helpful! I now know ive broken my air pump while trying to work out why it wouldnt start up. Hopefully i can swap in air pump from my scrap one, then work out , with the help of the rest of this vid, what the original problem is!
Any pics or info on the actual install? I would also recommend using an Inkbird ITC-308 for temp control. They do heat and cool for multi uses, the reviews are good on them.
Hey sixtyfiveford...just a shout out for your excellent video! I have this exact same heater...for over 25 years now...its been a great unit. I have never had any problem trouble shooting any issues that have sprung up until now. Your video post gave me a couple of other things to look at...Victory!....I thank you wholeheartedly...keep up the great work, and I hope you have a nice holiday season!!
Dude everytime I look up a video it always seems like i end up watching yours first! Good job. Is there anything I should be doing to my heater as maintenance??
You inspired me to see if my reddy heater 35 I bought at Ace Hardware 25+ years ago still runs. Only used it once. I dusted it off, and you know what? It runs! Same kerosene still in it! I expected it to be goo. It's still running now. I want to burn that old kerosene off before storing it again. Maybe I should store it with fresh kerosene in tank and lines. Definitely will start using it this winter. I thought it would be dead from not used and old kerosene in it. It was stored in an aircraft hangar. Maybe dry environment helped preserve it. UPDATE: It ran for over an hour and hardly used any kerosene. Yes it was burning I could feel the hot air. Really efficient heater. I will not be able to burn off kerosene that has been in tank 25+ years. I can't stay with it that long. The air filter turned to powder. Blew it out with compressed air. I can fabricate a new one.
You are an excellent teacher. You were thorough and to the point. An actual academic teacher would have made this a 50 minute video and gone BLAH, BLAH, BLAH for most of the time and the audience would be asleep or lost.
Dude you just saved my butt. I've had this heater for 10 years an no problems, and a couple months ago it stopped working. This video just urged me to tear into it, and the first thing I see is a dried-up leaf sitting in front of the optical sensor. Painless. Thanks for kicking me into action!
Sweet people don't appreciate people anymore that take there own time and effort to show people how to save money and fix stuff I say hats off to you sir and thanks so much for the video.
ok thanks i will post a video on my videos on the size and how powerful it is, if you stand within 3 feet of it your cloths will actually get to hot to rub against your skin
I have six Dayton heaters broken at work, that have had me scratching my head, since they have no problem with fuel or spark. I never knew they had a photo cell on them, until I watched your video. I have a feeling that's the problem with all of them, since they're pushing ten years old, so I'm going to check them tomorrow. Great video, with lot's of info. Thanks for sharing.
Joey R A defective photo cell generally has the symptoms of: the machine will power on and begin producing heat for a couple of seconds, then it will immediately shut off and trip the built in breaker.
Thank You! I have a Reddy Heater 70 that looks identical. I bought it new in 1997 and shamefully have done zero maintenance. It just stopped on me and I did not know where to begin. I am confident with a little TLC and help from this video I will have it back up and running in no time. Great Video.
Man , Your videos are so helpfull, Thank you .Im Freezin my balls off here in Western Ireland ,no insulating in me boat shed. I hav no spark on my heater..i think my coil is busted now as it has cracks in the back of plastic housing. I Tested the electrode while running. with phase tester ,and no voltage. Gonna try amazon and grab that one you mentioned or similar. I hav to say you are one ingeniously innovative man ! Yer videos amaze me. And im NOT easily amazed.
TANKS, DUDE. STRAIGHTFORWARD, TO THE POINT. COMMONSENSE TROUBLESHOOTING. NEVER WORKED ON THESE B4. MY BUDDY WANTS TO RUN DIESEL FUEL INSTEAD OF KEROSENE. NOT IN MY GARAGE !!
I have a Reddy Heater R50 that the motor went out on. Last month I put in a New motor, hoses and spark plug. I had to fine sand (400) the rotor in the air pump to keep it from binding when I tightened the screws up. The heater would not Ignite. I read all your comments (Thank You!) and figured it had to be air pressure as I had spark and New Kerosine flowing out the nozzle. Got a gauge and found the best I could get out of it was 1.5 psi. It was finally Warm enough to work on the Heater again today. (scratch head here) I got a new air pump rotor and put it in today and set the rotor clearance to .003. With the new rotor, it went up to 2.6 psi and that was enough to allow the fuel to atomize and ignite. FINALLY!! It is Supposed to be set at 3.6 psi and I tried everything I could to crank it up but it would not go any higher. The cone is not getting as Red as it should. I cleaned out the air pump spring and ball. Should I replace the plastic pump cover and spring and ball? I do not see any cracks. It looks like the adjusting screw is All the way in for Max pressure and still only 2.6 psi. Have you heard of any New Motors having a problem with correct RPM's? What else could it be? Thanks again.
GoopOfOil If it has tons and tons of hours on it the venturi nozzle can wear and not allow pressure build up(rare). The side to side clearance not only the .003 rotor clearance can be a contributor in extreme high hour machines. The spring can also weaken along with the ball seal.Try pinching the output hose while you check pressure and see what PSI you can obtain.
sixtyfiveford I pinched the air output hose and saw the gauge go to 8 PSI. Great news. I had put in a new cork/air filter on the pump and did not want to crack the plastic cover with Overtightened screws. With the heater running, I tightened up each of the three screws 1/8th of a turn at a time and the PSI went up to 3.6 after the 3rd1/8th turn. You Got to Torque the Cork. Runs great now.Thanks for the help.
I have a reddy 50k btu unit that I loved but it gave up the ghost with a failed motor, doesn't spin even with the pump removed and the shaft free spinning. The motor is non serviceable so I was looking for possible sources, but it's a specialty item that was not available at a reasonable cost. If I chance upon a motor I may bring it back from its suspended animation, but in the meantime I've gotten a pro temp 110VT for almost the cost of the motor. it has a hot surface ignitor instead of s spark plug, which I don't think works as well, but it does the job. wonder if I could swap the ignition types to get a cleaner burn.
Discovered my air pump veins were sticking. Cleaned with brake cleaner, they had a sticky film on them. Reinstalled, had to readjust air pressure, runs like new now! Thanks for the info!!
I picked up a Dayton 110,000 btu Oil Fired Heater from Craigslist today for $75.00. Couldn't resist. I have a 1500 sq.ft. shop and this thing fired right up and warmed up my shop in 15 to 20 minutes....it was only down to 45 degrees or so here in Oregon today. Gonna try the straight diesel with it tomorrow...see how she does ! Wish me luck ! Thanks for another tip SixtyFiveFord !
65Ford.........I have two of those heaters I resurrected from someone's junk and about pulled my hair out until I watched your video and read the very informative comments. One is running and the other will be soon. Thank YOU !!
Not sure why this just popped up in my feed but kudos to the excellent info. I have one sitting under my work bench. I should probably dig it out and give it some compressed air.
Excellent tutorial. Pete down at SWRNC is going to love ya for this one cause he just went out and bought a new heater cause his konked out. So now he will have a spare after he gets Toni to fix the one he replaced. Great video. Thanks.
I have a couple of these and I never fooled with them now I know how to work on them! I figure with two or three of them I may be able to build one ! This us great not the greatest smell but beats freezing and thanks for sharing great video man!
I've used a kero wick type heater for over 20 years, and have had three "max smoke" events in the past two years (one with a new wick). I am now sold on these, although the one I bought is a little noisy - I'll have to turn it off during Prairie Home Companion (Sat. p.m.) and Mountain Stage (Sun. p.m.)
Thanks so Much! Just fixed an old heater I had in the shop not working in 5 years, in 2 min. just low pressure. Thanks for breaking it down and sharing your knowledge!
Yet another great video!!! I picked up an old Sears salamander for free that won't light up. I've never worked on these before but after watching this video I don't think they're all that complicated.
I took the top off, great spark, fan is spinning away but not getting fuel. I noticed the rubber line was split so off to a parts store tomorrow to see if anyone has some of a small enough diameter.
Thanks for the video. Could not find my manual and the Mr. Heater (75k),web site let me down for a pdf. Opening the covers found spark and fluid atomizing. Found rubber hose from air pump to atomizer cracked. Replaced hose and all is good. Same dia. (id & od) for air and fuel. 2 feet will cover the replacement of both.
awesome vid, you really helped me out here. I'm up in Wisconsin and make knives for a living, and I cant make knives in my shop when it's -20 unless i have a heater. Well my heater wouldn't ignite, it's a much older model than what you were showing in this vid, but still had similar guts. i was able to pull the plug, check the spark, clean the plug and get everything working again all in about 20 mins. Thanks so much for making this video.
Good basic info, I didn't know they had a Pneumatic pump for that Venturi effect creating a carburetor type vacuum for the fuel to spray out the nozzle. Thank you for sharing man.
Hey 65ford everything you said was correct all those problems fixed ..got spark.fuel spray ,new sensor,new coil, only problem kerosene will not lite and it was fresh
+Mark Bucklad If it is fogging kerosene out the front but not lighting, more than likely your pump pressure is too high. This makes a RICH fuel/air mixture and it won't ignite.
It shouldn't be shooting a stream of fuel out. It needs to atomize it turning it into mist/fog. If it isn't atomizing it your jet could be worn out to large. This would generally only happen on a unit that has a lot of hours on it. You can try turning up the pressure to force it to atomize better.
SUPER AWESOME VIDEO!! THSNK YOU! My problem is slightly different….. It used to run great, then it started cutting off and blowing a lot of smoke, now it starts for maybe a minute blowing heat and working great, but then blows no smoke, then restarts for a few seconds, and after a couple tries- just blows only smoke and trips the reset on it? Psi is perfect, optical lens looked clean, and cleaned the spot off the industrial plug…… there is air blowing out of the tiny hole in the pressure adjustment screw, and if I stick my finger over it, it reignites- but my pressure gauge goes crazy high!!!! I just ordered a new air pump gasket/ filter, plug, and optical sensor to see if that fixes it, but now you have me wondering about the ignition box? What should I be looking at, and how do I test it? Thank you in advance for any help!!!! You have the best video out there about these old things! Thank you!!!
If you put your finger over the back and it ignites and runs that lets me think you have a crack in your airline going from the air pump to the nozzle.
I bought this EXACT one in 1997 at Home Depot I think. Anyway, I just used this the last 2 days at work. Never have had to repair anything on it. Serious quality.
Just finished working on my Reddy Pro 150. Changed all hoses, cleaned the orifice and fittings with carb cleaner. All appear clear. Problem: Pump is not drawing fuel, took the hose out of tank and placed it in a clear jar full of fuel, just to see if it was getting fuel. Has no suction and didn't pick up the fuel. Do you think it could be the pump and if so, is there any way to repair it? P.S. - took apart the pump cover and there was a filter which i cleaned, also there is triangle black pieces of plastic or some other substance that is part of the pump, can you tell me what this is ?
OK I am fixed and WARM I replaced the spark plug (again) still barely a spark... The photocell I bought has 2 black wires and I guess it matters which way you hook them up because after I switched those 2 wires it lit up... so THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO I could not have fixed it myself without your help
Thanks for reply. Had the fuel jet out for cleaning and looked fine but gave it a good clean in any case. Bought this heater new a number of years back but it would not have a great deal of hours use. Had contaminated kero in it a couple of weeks ago and i drained it out, flushed tank and then power hosed it inside. Stood it on it's end overnight to drain onto paper roll and then heated tank with hot air gun to ensure no moisture remained. When I went to start it up there was no fuel delivery to the new fuel filter so took it to local guy for testing/repair. New parts fitted ref to pump area but now I find it throws out flame at all levels of PSI adjustment. Also has to be kept on high PSI setting otherwise the Kero fumes are unbearable. If it was only an adjustment I would be happy to do that otherwise it will be going back to previous repairer to set up correctly.
+EUGENE Mc ARDLE If the fuel jet is worn it will spray clumps of fuel rather than a fine atomized mist. This will generally cause flames. Flames can also be cause by too high of pressure forcing too much fuel into the combustion chamber. Lowing the air pump pressure will lean out the mixture and should have lower fumes.
One other question: how critical is the spark plug "placement"? I've got it set so the spark "faces" the fuel spray and have a very healthy spark but still get the intermittent ignition even though the spark is continuous. I'm stumped. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, good overview of all systems. I was able run down a plugged nozzle to get my old Rediheater going. Roughly 25 yrs of hard service and I finally had to service it. Its de-icing my Polaris wheeler as I type. (there was a ton of black dust I cleaned from the air pump filter...this may have been part of the problem too)
I just bought one from a garage sale. It looks almost brand new. They said that they used it a couple of times then they bought a gas heater and haven’t used it sense. So when I got home I tried it out. The fan kicks on but never fires. So I took the cover off and the glow plug does work. But I broke the damn thing taking it apart. Lol. I should know better since I’ve replaced many in my furnace. And I also I see the fuel shooting from the nozzle. So my guess is that optical. That’s really the only thing I can make of it. Their is also a small board panel in it. But I really don’t think that it that. So I guess I will see when the new glow plug comes in. Unless you have any ideas. 😀🤣🤣
I've seen several videos where they used graphite to lube the rotor vanes. But only a few, not everyone uses lube on those vanes. One Desa manual does not reference any lube on the vanes. Haven't found any manuals yet that suggest lubing the vanes. Any idea where that idea to lube the vanes comes from, and why graphite? Thanks! Keep up the great work!
Didn't realize at first how old this video is. Great video, mine is pretty beat up, over 10 years old. probably over due for a tune up. I find the fumes are not as harsh using diesel over kerosene.
I have the same unit you have here..I'm having trouble with it not burning all the fuel from the nozzle..just making smoke & fumes then eventually pulsing out..plug & spark is good..nozzle is clear & spraying fine..I'm leaning to some bad kerosene being the problem maybe?. I just topped it off with new fuel too..figures..I'll check it for water & get back to ya .Good video btw
Making progress man, one of two problems. Re the pressure, I have to run the heater on max pressure ( with 4 inch flames out the front ) to avoid fumes. Yet when I turn down the pressure ( where it previously sat for years) the fumes are overpowering and it does not run smooth at all yet it still throws 2 inch flames out around the front shield. Looks like the fuel jet could be the culprit.
Awesome video thank you could you please tell me where you got that universal igniting coil Because mine is not turning on the glow plug it's just spitting kerosene out the front thanks
Been watching your series on these Heaters, Excellent Job!. I have a Reddy Heater Model R100A that I picked up free from a friend. It appears the fan motor is seized. No movement at all. Tried gently with Vise Grips to move and nothing. Any suggestions or possibly a suggestion on a motor replacement that is reasonable? Thanks!
GREAT VIDEO - THANKS Got a feeling when I go home tonight I will find the problem with mine. It ran just fine for about an hour . Ran out of fuel and stopped. I filled it back up with kerosene and now it won't ignite. Tries to. Just sits there and smokes a lot.
Like OTC said...an other great video. I've never had one, but now that I know how they work I'll keep an eye out for one that doesn't work and be able to fix it. Thx
Hello again.Its winter time,and had to break out the ole heaters.I had a reddy 110 pro,and the motor just quit while in operation.I took it off,looked at it,and ended up buying a replacement for it.While putting it together again,I accidentally placed the rotor kit in backwards,with the center bushing not properly installed and cracked the rotor.Got a new kit,put together,with a set of new filters,and now I can't get it to burn steady.It wants to miss pretty bad.I had another used plug that I put in and got the adjustments good enough to not trip the reset,but still missing,so I took the used plug out,put the original back in and its worse than before.Can't get it to stay running long enough to make any adjustments.I've tried 3 different backplates and I can't get anything to adjust.I've turned the screw all the way in and out,and can't find a sweet spot.Any ideas would be appreciated.
sixtyfiveford Hey,Thanks for the response.I finally after much head scratching,took off the air line,blew some air through it,and disassembled and cleaned the nozzle.Now its working good.What I've seen,,is that while the pressure valve adjustment is important,its not as sensitive as some say it is,,so long as everything else is up to par.apparently it had trash either in the air line or somewhere between it and nozzle.I've had similar problems with cracked filter plate,but I have three thats nearly new,so I didn't think they should be the problem,,but didn't occur that trash would be either.:>) Thanks again.
Actually one of the better how to vids on this subject but high pressure air to blow back through the fuel line usually pops out the cone strainer filter in the fuel pick up tube leading to unfiltered fuel plugging the nozzle at some point.
That's right. The fan doesn't blow. It goes threw no firing procedures that it once did. I found a igniter part for $30. As far as how it works, after you plug it in what goes first, the igniter? Because before I would see a nice orange glow inside chamber then fan would run causing it to fire. Does it have to be set on high when starting?
When mine plugs in the fan does not move. The Ignite starts with spark plug but no fuel or fire. The motor fan has to run correct for the air pump to push air. This is new to me and I just got it gave to me to fix if I wanted to keep it
Gave me the knowledge to feel comfortable opening mine up. In my case, the air pump and fuel delivery hoses were dry rotted. ....after 3 years from new, stored in a garage. Made in China items of rubber seem to be WAY below specs. Those lines feel more like plastic to me and the clamps weren't even snug on the hose barbs any more.
Good video. My rubber fuel line has dry rot cracks. Can I replace it with a piece of standard automotive line ? Not sure what size diameter to use, I have a Remington 70,000 Btu 5 yr old heater. Thanks
Wow, that's pretty new for it to start dry rotting. They claim automotive liquid fuel line will slowly get eaten away/degrade with propane. That being said, I've done it without issue or any noticeable softening of the rubber. After the regulator there is only a few psi of pressure in the line.
Thanks I was given one of these. Was afraid to bbn use it. I heard you can also use diesel fuel. Is that true? Thanks. It was freezing in my shop. I will try it soon. Thanks
My Reddy Heater R55 will not run properly with the upper shell installed. Initially, the unit wasn't sparking, so I replaced the transformer ignition control and installed a new spark plug. That fixed the sparking issue. However, this new shutoff issue was discovered. I elected to replace the lint filter, intake filter, and output filter, as those pieces all looked pretty old. The filter end cover was cracked on the side and spitting out air, which I replaced. After the same issue continued and the unit shut off after a few minutes with the upper shell on, I replaced several other things. This included the photocell, nozzle and adapter, the adjusting screw, spring, steel ball, and the 1/8" ID air and fuel lines. After digging deeper into this, I noted the old 3/16" ID air line was leaking with a bit of soapy water, my dad's best trick for finding leaks. One thing to note, when I have the upper shell off, I have set the pressure to 3.4 PSI (per the side label), but when I put the upper shell on, the PSI drops to below 3.0 unless I hold the gauge still. When I hold it, the gauge reads 3.4 PSI. A couple of final things to note on this journey. 1) The fuel cap does not look to have a gasket but it seems to breathe properly with the hole in the center of the cap. 2) Before any issues started, I was running pump kerosene. Since then, I filled up with 10 gallons of jet fuel at a local airport and wondered if I got bad fuel from them. I plan to run through the last 7 gallons or so of jet fuel with the upper shell off and then try a couple of gallons of pump kerosene to see if that resolves the problem. Beyond all of my attempts, I am at a loss and could use some help. I've spent more on these repairs than the unit is worth but started the process in hopes of fixing the heater, as my wife's grandfather gave it to me a couple of years ago. In hindsight, I should have just bought a new unit, but here I am.
I’ve been given an old 100k btu Dayton torpedo heater. It’s missing the spark plug. My question is: for the purpose of troubleshooting, can I use any plug that fits (rather than buying a $15 replacement)? I just want to be sure it runs before putting too much $$ into it. Thanks!
nice upload mate. I've just bought an English made heater like this, probably made in the 1970s, going to do a service on it before I try to fire it up. thanks again for teaching me how these work. not sure if my one has a photo cell though. Cheers from the UK
U know sir THANK u ...i love guys like u to take time out to show things that i have not learned yet,working in my garage and it burning to rich,will drive u out of the garagePEEEEEACE
Nicely done. Throw a few drops of motor oil onto the shaft to help lubricate it. WD40 is great for freeing up sticking parts but not so much for lubrication.
If you ran a test for spark and it starts but shuts down, then observing spark would tell you it was fuel related failure. I had to check one once and could find no one who could diagnose and test or check it. I ended up taking the nozzle to a fuel sales company and the guy I the office showed me it can be disassembled and cleaned. Wooosh. Here comes the fuel and proper atomization.
Hey great video. I have a problem with mine, at first it wouldn't start and then I noticed some rust on the propeller shaft like your has and it was jammed. I forced it to move and now it starts but it makes this prrrrrrrr sound continuously. I was thinking would some oil and more rotating fix it? Edit. I tried that and the propel moves smoothly now but the sound hasn't changed. Any ideas?
Helpful video. My torpedo heater turns on but then after a few seconds the breaker trips. Sounds like it might be the optical sensor. There is no heat. What are your thoughts? Thanks
Heather Simpson If it never produces heat/flame it is not the optical sensor. The optical sensor is only bad if the heater is functioning and producing heat then trips the breaker for no reason. The first thing to do is check for spark.
sixtyfiveford Ok I changed plug, it has a spark but nothing else is coming on and it trips again after a few seconds. What do you think should be the next step? Thanks
Got to say thank you for posting this video. Fixed out little Reddy Heater today, was a fouled spark plug... I can't change the air flow setting the screw rounded off, but its working okay as it.
Dude!!!! Great video... I almost bought a john Deere that looked pretty clean...just wasn't working.... I was really hesitant to pull the trigger a blow $100 bucks on Something I didn't have a clue how to begin to fix. The next one I see is all mine!!!! So, thanks so much!
Those plastic screws really suck. The screw drive spreads the end and makes it bind up while turning. I machined a 3/8-24 set screw to replace it but I"m still not getting enough pressure. I don't know how to check the motor.
INSTALL A GAUGE TO ALWAYS MONITOR YOUR PRESSURE
0-15psi GAUGE(needs cheap adapter below): amzn.to/2UBLqCV
Adapter to allow gauge to hook to heater: amzn.to/37enCaI
Install a thermostat to stay comfortable and save fuel: amzn.to/2b2qj2h
Keep yourself safe with a carbon monoxide detector: amzn.to/2b7h6Yr
Ignition Module I used in the video amzn.to/3kWVCiD GHP 39E0-0008-00( any 39E0-00**-** will work the same (the length of the leads is the only difference in model numbers). The one I bought must have been on clearance as it was cheaper than what these are now. If you're replacing a single wire ignitor with one of these 2 spark plug lead wires units; ONE lead will hook to the existing spark plug and the other lead will ground out to the frame or housing that makes electrical contact with the outside(threads) of the spark plug. You can flatten out the end and put a screw in it or something similar. This differs from what I did in the video.
I think my aftermarket pump filter is the culprit... screw all the way in just to get 3psi... tag said 3.6... buying the OEM one.
@@ktcopyguy You can take apart the pump and make sure the vanes are in good condition. You can also just remove the filter to test if it makes a difference.
@@sixtyfiveford pump veins are new, I will try without the filter, thanks for you help!
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Quick question I have a master heater it's not that old and most if the time fan doesn't wanna spin unless you spin it by hand then hit start
Nice straight forward to the point video. No crazy music or sales pitch. Thanks
Yes!!!! Thank you for no obnoxious logo splash and intro music for 20 seconds. No wasting our time telling us about your week.
I wish ALL vids were like this!
Thanks.
Great info, too!
Woke up in the middle of the night and couldn't sleep so I got up and started rummaging around on Ytube. Forget which videos I started with but pretty soon I noticed a pattern: most of the videos I was choosing were by this 'sixtyfiveford' guy and they were great. Unfortunately, I didn't up thumb them. Then I saw this one with the picture of the Reddy Heater 55 which I have owned for about 2 or 3 decades. To start mine I have to enrich the mixture a bit by blocking the air intake with a piece of paper for 1 second then it runs well. This video has encouraged me to get into it and set it up properly. And up thumb this video! Thank you, sir sixtyfiveford!!
Hopefully the video helps. Thanks for watching and the thumbs UP.
Just wanted to thank you for your video. I have the reddy heater 55 also, although mine uses a glow igniter. I went through and checked each of the areas you mentioned. Everything seemed to be working individually (glow, fuel, air), but my issue was that my heater would run for 30 seconds to a minute then shut down. I finally pulled the fuel line and blew down into the tank to clear it. When I did, fuel came back up through the line??? So, I figured that the tank was pressurizing. Come to find out, the breather hole in the fuel filler cap had debris and rust in it that clogged it shut preventing the heater from drawing fuel because of the vacuum it created after a minute or so.
Just thought I'd share in case someone else could use the info.
nickgw Thanks for the heads up.
Thank you
Thank you
Will go and check mine, I get about five minutes!, had it in bits and found nothing wrong, didn't think to check the breather hole, good spot!☺.
Good catch I had same problem with the fuel cap on my snowblower , my older heater started to quit after about a minute haven't used it for years I just thought it would-be a bad over temperature sensor so there it sits thanks , sometime I'll give everything a good cleaning .
When I got done watching I thought to myself "Now I know!" Thanks for a quick, detailed, no BS video!
Excellent video, not a lot of fluff and you get right to the point. My heater quit lighting off last winter, had to throw a rag over the back of it (put on the choke?) to get it started. Did a complete tune up on it today and your information really was a big help in figuring out how the heater basically works. My heater actually had a crack in the plastic air pump back housing, losing pressure. Sealed it up, adjusted the pressure, new spark plug and filter, general cleaning - works like new. Thanks for the video!
7:25 I did too, but then nine months later our daughter came along.
Great video. I thought I had done everything to get my old Homelite 65K BTU running again. It works, but could be alot better. It doesn't get nearly as hot as it should. I made sure all the plumbing was good and clear, fuel strainer screen was clean, impeller gap was set, everything save for checking the pump pressure since I didn't have a gauge. I knew the problem was either the impeller and its vanes were just too worn, the pressure bleedoff screw threads were too loose (or spring just no good), or the nozzle had an obstruction that carb cleaner and compressed air couldn't free up. After watching your video, I dug out my old Penske vacuum gauge and sure enough, 10PSI pressure range in .5PSI increments, widely spaced. Hooked it up and it did the trick. Pressure was too high so I set it to 4.0PSI since that was the closest I could estimate without being able to source a manual anywhere for this heater, and now I know both the pump assembly and bleedoff screw assembly are both good and that the problem is the nozzle. Now time to source a replacement for an obscure heater manufactured in 1973.....
I don't see why you couldn't easily adapt a newer nozzle.
I thought you had a pirate hook for a hand at first!
I did too, was disappointing when I realized it was a light.
Captain Hook.
@@gittyupalice96 I also thought the same, but I am glad he hasn't, I had a hand in plaster for eight weeks and a further six weeks physiotherapy and it was not fun, try opening a tin of soup, even if it does have a ring pull, made me appreciate just how important hands are, and how easy they are to damage, great video by the way and answered my problem, take care and stay safe everybody.
Yeah. I thought the same thing. He's now known as captain hook
ARRRRRG MATEY!
My heater was lighting very lazily and sometimes misfiring and smoking out my garage, I use diesel too so it's bad!!! I adjusted the air pressure after watching this video just like you did and woof! It fired up and is running better than ever! Huge shout out to you for making this video, I was about to throw it in the trash
I always wondered how these worked and currently want to buy one, thanks for such an informative yet simple video. Subscribed.
Thanks.
This helped. I've been soaking the fuel tank of my Reddy Heater 79 in Evapo Rust and tumbling with nuts and bolts to remove rust from the interior of the tank. I was not sure how fuel was drawn in but now it's all clear. Thank you for creating this video.
Thanks so much for all the things you do for so many on here.It really helps people out when you show what to do about certain situations.your a real nice man.
Happy Holidays.
After searching for an hour and watching a pile of worthless videos I found yours. Great job, very informative and well done.
Thank you.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Thanks! I have a different make and model (Thermoheat) but it's the SAME setup inside. Now that I understand the fuel/air system I'll look closer at the air filters and fuel quality to explain my puff of smoke. It's much better but not right after cleaning the the fuel filter/jet.
I'm 1:40 in and this has been amazingly helpful!
I now know ive broken my air pump while trying to work out why it wouldnt start up.
Hopefully i can swap in air pump from my scrap one, then work out , with the help of the rest of this vid, what the original problem is!
Dude- Awesome video! You're a great presenter-instructor,
Joe W Thanks Man.
Great step by step. I don’t think I have a spark plug, but if I do it will be a simple fix. Also really appreciate it. Great teacher
Permanently mount a pressure gauge to your heater so you can always make sure it's running safely. LOOK in the video description for details.
Any pics or info on the actual install? I would also recommend using an Inkbird ITC-308 for temp control. They do heat and cool for multi uses, the reviews are good on them.
One more thing, can you send me the ignition module part number you did to yours. Thanks again
@@scottcryder3737 I have all the details in the video description about the module.
Hey sixtyfiveford...just a shout out for your excellent video!
I have this exact same heater...for over 25 years now...its been a great unit.
I have never had any problem trouble shooting any issues that have sprung up until now.
Your video post gave me a couple of other things to look at...Victory!....I thank you wholeheartedly...keep up the great work, and I hope you have a nice holiday season!!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Dude everytime I look up a video it always seems like i end up watching yours first! Good job. Is there anything I should be doing to my heater as maintenance??
+Richard Lapointe Hey Thanks. Cleaning the spark plug(if yours has one) and checking the pressure is about it.
You inspired me to see if my reddy heater 35 I bought at Ace Hardware 25+ years ago still runs. Only used it once. I dusted it off, and you know what? It runs! Same kerosene still in it! I expected it to be goo. It's still running now. I want to burn that old kerosene off before storing it again. Maybe I should store it with fresh kerosene in tank and lines. Definitely will start using it this winter. I thought it would be dead from not used and old kerosene in it. It was stored in an aircraft hangar. Maybe dry environment helped preserve it.
UPDATE: It ran for over an hour and hardly used any kerosene. Yes it was burning I could feel the hot air. Really efficient heater. I will not be able to burn off kerosene that has been in tank 25+ years. I can't stay with it that long.
The air filter turned to powder. Blew it out with compressed air. I can fabricate a new one.
You are an excellent teacher. You were thorough and to the point. An actual academic teacher would have made this a 50 minute video and gone BLAH, BLAH, BLAH for most of the time and the audience would be asleep or lost.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
great video man, much appreciated, very clear and concise, it has helped me decide finally on a heater for my shop, cheers
Dude you just saved my butt. I've had this heater for 10 years an no problems, and a couple months ago it stopped working. This video just urged me to tear into it, and the first thing I see is a dried-up leaf sitting in front of the optical sensor. Painless. Thanks for kicking me into action!
That's an easy fix.. Glad it was something so simple and that my video helped.
thank you for a great tutorial. I really appreciate the schooling!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Sweet people don't appreciate people anymore that take there own time and effort to show people how to save money and fix stuff I say hats off to you sir and thanks so much for the video.
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful.
ok thanks i will post a video on my videos on the size and how powerful it is, if you stand within 3 feet of it your cloths will actually get to hot to rub against your skin
I have six Dayton heaters broken at work, that have had me scratching my head, since they have no problem with fuel or spark. I never knew they had a photo cell on them, until I watched your video. I have a feeling that's the problem with all of them, since they're pushing ten years old, so I'm going to check them tomorrow. Great video, with lot's of info. Thanks for sharing.
Joey R A defective photo cell generally has the symptoms of: the machine will power on and begin producing heat for a couple of seconds, then it will immediately shut off and trip the built in breaker.
great and informative video you are a easy to follow instructor
Thanks. I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Thank You! I have a Reddy Heater 70 that looks identical. I bought it new in 1997 and shamefully have done zero maintenance. It just stopped on me and I did not know where to begin. I am confident with a little TLC and help from this video I will have it back up and running in no time. Great Video.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked the video.
Great video, had to smile your shop looks just like mine. good stuff everywhere.
newburyportvideo Good stuff Everywhere.... Oh yeah.
Man , Your videos are so helpfull, Thank you .Im Freezin my balls off here in Western Ireland ,no insulating in me boat shed. I hav no spark on my heater..i think my coil is busted now as it has cracks in the back of plastic housing. I Tested the electrode while running. with phase tester ,and no voltage. Gonna try amazon and grab that one you mentioned or similar. I hav to say you are one ingeniously innovative man ! Yer videos amaze me. And im NOT easily amazed.
Thanks, I'm glad you like them.
1:11 Lose your hand, Captain? Arrrr!
mark lee ARRRGH Maity
TANKS, DUDE. STRAIGHTFORWARD, TO THE POINT. COMMONSENSE TROUBLESHOOTING. NEVER WORKED ON THESE B4. MY BUDDY WANTS TO RUN DIESEL FUEL INSTEAD OF KEROSENE. NOT IN MY GARAGE !!
I have a Reddy Heater R50 that the motor went out on. Last month I put in a New motor, hoses and spark plug. I had to fine sand (400) the rotor in the air pump to keep it from binding when I tightened the screws up.
The heater would not Ignite. I read all your comments (Thank You!) and figured it had to be air pressure as I had spark and New Kerosine flowing out the nozzle. Got a gauge and found the best I could get out of it was 1.5 psi.
It was finally Warm enough to work on the Heater again today. (scratch head here)
I got a new air pump rotor and put it in today and set the rotor clearance to .003. With the new rotor, it went up to 2.6 psi and that was enough to allow the fuel to atomize and ignite. FINALLY!!
It is Supposed to be set at 3.6 psi and I tried everything I could to crank it up but it would not go any higher. The cone is not getting as Red as it should. I cleaned out the air pump spring and ball. Should I replace the plastic pump cover and spring and ball? I do not see any cracks. It looks like the adjusting screw is All the way in for Max pressure and still only 2.6 psi. Have you heard of any New Motors having a problem with correct RPM's? What else could it be?
Thanks again.
GoopOfOil If it has tons and tons of hours on it the venturi nozzle can wear and not allow pressure build up(rare). The side to side clearance not only the .003 rotor clearance can be a contributor in extreme high hour machines. The spring can also weaken along with the ball seal.Try pinching the output hose while you check pressure and see what PSI you can obtain.
sixtyfiveford I pinched the air output hose and saw the gauge go to 8 PSI. Great news. I had put in a new cork/air filter on the pump and did not want to crack the plastic cover with Overtightened screws. With the heater running, I tightened up each of the three screws 1/8th of a turn at a time and the PSI went up to 3.6 after the 3rd1/8th turn. You Got to Torque the Cork. Runs great now.Thanks for the help.
That's great news. Stay warm.
I have a reddy 50k btu unit that I loved but it gave up the ghost with a failed motor, doesn't spin even with the pump removed and the shaft free spinning. The motor is non serviceable so I was looking for possible sources, but it's a specialty item that was not available at a reasonable cost. If I chance upon a motor I may bring it back from its suspended animation, but in the meantime I've gotten a pro temp 110VT for almost the cost of the motor. it has a hot surface ignitor instead of s spark plug, which I don't think works as well, but it does the job.
wonder if I could swap the ignition types to get a cleaner burn.
Nice to have someone that has worked on a reddy heater break it down in a video. Thanks. Now i can fix mine
Just picked one up second hand (and CHEAP), having some issues, so wound up here. VERY nice video told me exactly what I needed to know, thanks!
Discovered my air pump veins were sticking. Cleaned with brake cleaner, they had a sticky film on them. Reinstalled, had to readjust air pressure, runs like new now! Thanks for the info!!
Bryanna Freeman Awesome. That's great news.
I picked up a Dayton 110,000 btu Oil Fired Heater from Craigslist today for $75.00. Couldn't resist. I have a 1500 sq.ft. shop and this thing fired right up and warmed up my shop in 15 to 20 minutes....it was only down to 45 degrees or so here in Oregon today.
Gonna try the straight diesel with it tomorrow...see how she does !
Wish me luck !
Thanks for another tip SixtyFiveFord !
+Screww Googlle Yeah, that's a sweet deal. I found a local station that sells red die off road diesel, so it's even cheaper.
65Ford.........I have two of those heaters I resurrected from someone's junk and about pulled my hair out until I watched your video and read the very informative comments. One is running and the other will be soon.
Thank YOU !!
handjgrimm That's Great... I'm glad the video was informative.
Not sure why this just popped up in my feed but kudos to the excellent info. I have one sitting under my work bench. I should probably dig it out and give it some compressed air.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Excellent tutorial. Pete down at SWRNC is going to love ya for this one cause he just went out and bought a new heater cause his konked out. So now he will have a spare after he gets Toni to fix the one he replaced. Great video. Thanks.
I hope it helps him out. Thanks Ed.
I have a couple of these and I never fooled with them now I know how to work on them! I figure with two or three of them I may be able to build one ! This us great not the greatest smell but beats freezing and thanks for sharing great video man!
Smell is all about setting the air pressure exactly as is says on the unit. Do that and they have zero odor.
Wow your shop really improved after all these years. Excellent.
I thought you had a hook for a hand, but it was the trouble light at 1:16. Thanks for the info.
I've used a kero wick type heater for over 20 years, and have had three "max smoke" events in the past two years (one with a new wick). I am now sold on these, although the one I bought is a little noisy - I'll have to turn it off during Prairie Home Companion (Sat. p.m.) and Mountain Stage (Sun. p.m.)
Lawrence Rupert Yeah, they definitely put off noise but the circulation of the air is worth it.
Thanks so Much! Just fixed an old heater I had in the shop not working in 5 years, in 2 min. just low pressure. Thanks for breaking it down and sharing your knowledge!
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful.
I got it running last night. It had a faulty fuel line. Appreciate you teaching what to look out for. Great Job! Thank you for the reply!
Jack Gutwein Great. I'm glad you have heat.
Yet another great video!!! I picked up an old Sears salamander for free that won't light up. I've never worked on these before but after watching this video I don't think they're all that complicated.
I took the top off, great spark, fan is spinning away but not getting fuel. I noticed the rubber line was split so off to a parts store tomorrow to see if anyone has some of a small enough diameter.
Thanks for the video. Could not find my manual and the Mr. Heater (75k),web site let me down for a pdf. Opening the covers found spark and fluid atomizing. Found rubber hose from air pump to atomizer cracked. Replaced hose and all is good. Same dia. (id & od) for air and fuel. 2 feet will cover the replacement of both.
top man, I knew the people from over the Pond were clever but not just how clever, now I know as much as you, top editorial thanks
handers17 Thanks for watching. I'm glad it was informative.
Fixed it today based on your knowledge passed to me, pressure valve the culprit
Awesome.. Great work.
awesome vid, you really helped me out here. I'm up in Wisconsin and make knives for a living, and I cant make knives in my shop when it's -20 unless i have a heater. Well my heater wouldn't ignite, it's a much older model than what you were showing in this vid, but still had similar guts. i was able to pull the plug, check the spark, clean the plug and get everything working again all in about 20 mins. Thanks so much for making this video.
That's great! I'm glad the video was helpful.
You can consider an Inkbird ITC-308 for temperature control of heat and a/c for multi use.
Good basic info, I didn't know they had a Pneumatic pump for that Venturi effect creating a carburetor type vacuum for the fuel to spray out the nozzle. Thank you for sharing man.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Great video, explanatory and no rambling. Might add that I run diesel in mije, cheaper, hotter and it doesn't give you a headache.
Agree. Wholeheartedly. Awesome instructor. Superb presentation.
I got a question...why are you all bundled up? You got heat. Lots of it. Lol.
Thanks just bought one at yard sale for $15 now it’s coming apart ! Garage get cold building bikes in the winter ! Score
Someone took my air pump rotor out lol just gone , $20 back in action
This freaking guy has videos on almost everything that is broken around my house.
I have a newer torpedo heater but it's good to know that I can now do some basic repairs if needed. Great idea for a video, it will come in handy.
Thanks.
Hey 65ford everything you said was correct all those problems fixed ..got spark.fuel spray ,new sensor,new coil, only problem kerosene will not lite and it was fresh
+Mark Bucklad If it is fogging kerosene out the front but not lighting, more than likely your pump pressure is too high. This makes a RICH fuel/air mixture and it won't ignite.
+sixtyfiveford No its not fogging out the front wont do anything but shoot fuel out the jet and spark from plug
It shouldn't be shooting a stream of fuel out. It needs to atomize it turning it into mist/fog. If it isn't atomizing it your jet could be worn out to large. This would generally only happen on a unit that has a lot of hours on it. You can try turning up the pressure to force it to atomize better.
SUPER AWESOME VIDEO!!
THSNK YOU!
My problem is slightly different…..
It used to run great, then it started cutting off and blowing a lot of smoke, now it starts for maybe a minute blowing heat and working great, but then blows no smoke, then restarts for a few seconds, and after a couple tries- just blows only smoke and trips the reset on it? Psi is perfect, optical lens looked clean, and cleaned the spot off the industrial plug…… there is air blowing out of the tiny hole in the pressure adjustment screw, and if I stick my finger over it, it reignites- but my pressure gauge goes crazy high!!!!
I just ordered a new air pump gasket/ filter, plug, and optical sensor to see if that fixes it, but now you have me wondering about the ignition box? What should I be looking at, and how do I test it? Thank you in advance for any help!!!!
You have the best video out there about these old things!
Thank you!!!
If you put your finger over the back and it ignites and runs that lets me think you have a crack in your airline going from the air pump to the nozzle.
@@sixtyfiveford THANK YOU, I’ll check the line! Is air supposed to be blowing out of the middle of the adjusting screw?
I bought this EXACT one in 1997 at Home Depot I think. Anyway, I just used this the last 2 days at work. Never have had to repair anything on it. Serious quality.
SKMC69 Yeah, they're good machines.
Just finished working on my Reddy Pro 150. Changed all hoses, cleaned the orifice and fittings with carb cleaner. All appear clear. Problem: Pump is not drawing fuel, took the hose out of tank and placed it in a clear jar full of fuel, just to see if it was getting fuel. Has no suction and didn't pick up the fuel. Do you think it could be the pump and if so, is there any way to repair it? P.S. - took apart the pump cover and there was a filter which i cleaned, also there is triangle black pieces of plastic or some other substance that is part of the pump, can you tell me what this is ?
OK I am fixed and WARM I replaced the spark plug (again) still barely a spark... The photocell I bought has 2 black wires and I guess it matters which way you hook them up because after I switched those 2 wires it lit up... so THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO I could not have fixed it myself without your help
Awesome.. Glad you can now be warm.
Thanks for reply. Had the fuel jet out for cleaning and looked fine but gave it a good clean in any case. Bought this heater new a number of years back but it would not have a great deal of hours use. Had contaminated kero in it a couple of weeks ago and i drained it out, flushed tank and then power hosed it inside. Stood it on it's end overnight to drain onto paper roll and then heated tank with hot air gun to ensure no moisture remained. When I went to start it up there was no fuel delivery to the new fuel filter so took it to local guy for testing/repair. New parts fitted ref to pump area but now I find it throws out flame at all levels of PSI adjustment. Also has to be kept on high PSI setting otherwise the Kero fumes are unbearable.
If it was only an adjustment I would be happy to do that otherwise it will be going back to previous repairer to set up correctly.
+EUGENE Mc ARDLE If the fuel jet is worn it will spray clumps of fuel rather than a fine atomized mist. This will generally cause flames. Flames can also be cause by too high of pressure forcing too much fuel into the combustion chamber. Lowing the air pump pressure will lean out the mixture and should have lower fumes.
One other question: how critical is the spark plug "placement"? I've got it set so the spark "faces" the fuel spray and have a very healthy spark but still get the intermittent ignition even though the spark is continuous. I'm stumped. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, good overview of all systems. I was able run down a plugged nozzle to get my old Rediheater going. Roughly 25 yrs of hard service and I finally had to service it. Its de-icing my Polaris wheeler as I type. (there was a ton of black dust I cleaned from the air pump filter...this may have been part of the problem too)
Great to hear you got her up going. Glad the video helped.
We have a Reddy we bought in 1990 , we have not use in 15 years , [ today Jan. 9th 2024 ] having some problems with . Thanks for the info .
I just bought one from a garage sale. It looks almost brand new. They said that they used it a couple of times then they bought a gas heater and haven’t used it sense. So when I got home I tried it out. The fan kicks on but never fires. So I took the cover off and the glow plug does work. But I broke the damn thing taking it apart. Lol. I should know better since I’ve replaced many in my furnace. And I also I see the fuel shooting from the nozzle. So my guess is that optical. That’s really the only thing I can make of it. Their is also a small board panel in it. But I really don’t think that it that. So I guess I will see when the new glow plug comes in. Unless you have any ideas. 😀🤣🤣
I've seen several videos where they used graphite to lube the rotor vanes. But only a few, not everyone uses lube on those vanes. One Desa manual does not reference any lube on the vanes. Haven't found any manuals yet that suggest lubing the vanes. Any idea where that idea to lube the vanes comes from, and why graphite? Thanks! Keep up the great work!
Didn't realize at first how old this video is. Great video, mine is pretty beat up, over 10 years old. probably over due for a tune up. I find the fumes are not as harsh using diesel over kerosene.
They go for a long time without any care. Generally, I don't fix it if it's not broken.
I have the same unit you have here..I'm having trouble with it not burning all the fuel from the nozzle..just making smoke & fumes then eventually pulsing out..plug & spark is good..nozzle is clear & spraying fine..I'm leaning to some bad kerosene being the problem maybe?. I just topped it off with new fuel too..figures..I'll check it for water & get back to ya .Good video btw
The pressure could be set to high, or the foam filter on the back could be plugged up.
Well one of the best walkthroughs I've seen on these heaters!!
Making progress man, one of two problems. Re the pressure, I have to run the heater on max pressure ( with 4 inch flames out the front ) to avoid fumes. Yet when I turn down the pressure ( where it previously sat for years) the fumes are overpowering and it does not run smooth at all yet it still throws 2 inch flames out around the front shield. Looks like the fuel jet could be the culprit.
Awesome video thank you could you please tell me where you got that universal igniting coil Because mine is not turning on the glow plug it's just spitting kerosene out the front thanks
Been watching your series on these Heaters, Excellent Job!. I have a Reddy Heater Model R100A that I picked up free from a friend. It appears the fan motor is seized. No movement at all. Tried gently with Vise Grips to move and nothing. Any suggestions or possibly a suggestion on a motor replacement that is reasonable? Thanks!
I have a Reddy Heater 35 that keeps cutting out, so this video will be big help to me
Good subject and very good presentation - I wondered how those torpedo heaters worked, now I know! Thanks!!
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful.
Had one that would run with the cover off but trip out with the cover on. Found out the nozzle was worn out. Replaced it and it cured the issue.
We call these salamander heaters for some reason. But I didn’t know how those work. Very cool.
I hear them called salamanders for time to time. Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
By far the best video for this I have seen, and I e searched and seen alot. Thank you
I'm glad it was helpful
GREAT VIDEO - THANKS
Got a feeling when I go home tonight I will find the problem with mine. It ran just fine for about an hour . Ran out of fuel and stopped. I filled it back up with kerosene and now it won't ignite. Tries to. Just sits there and smokes a lot.
Jeff Begor Sounds like a spark issue.
Like OTC said...an other great video. I've never had one, but now that I know how they work I'll keep an eye out for one that doesn't work and be able to fix it. Thx
Hello again.Its winter time,and had to break out the ole heaters.I had a reddy 110 pro,and the motor just quit while in operation.I took it off,looked at it,and ended up buying a replacement for it.While putting it together again,I accidentally placed the rotor kit in backwards,with the center bushing not properly installed and cracked the rotor.Got a new kit,put together,with a set of new filters,and now I can't get it to burn steady.It wants to miss pretty bad.I had another used plug that I put in and got the adjustments good enough to not trip the reset,but still missing,so I took the used plug out,put the original back in and its worse than before.Can't get it to stay running long enough to make any adjustments.I've tried 3 different backplates and I can't get anything to adjust.I've turned the screw all the way in and out,and can't find a sweet spot.Any ideas would be appreciated.
+FlintSpall The most common issue for poor running is a split in the air or fuel pickup line. This will make adjusting near impossible.
sixtyfiveford Hey,Thanks for the response.I finally after much head scratching,took off the air line,blew some air through it,and disassembled and cleaned the nozzle.Now its working good.What I've seen,,is that while the pressure valve adjustment is important,its not as sensitive as some say it is,,so long as everything else is up to par.apparently it had trash either in the air line or somewhere between it and nozzle.I've had similar problems with cracked filter plate,but I have three thats nearly new,so I didn't think they should be the problem,,but didn't occur that trash would be either.:>) Thanks again.
Actually one of the better how to vids on this subject but high pressure air to blow back through the fuel line usually pops out the cone strainer filter in the fuel pick up tube leading to unfiltered fuel plugging the nozzle at some point.
That's right. The fan doesn't blow. It goes threw no firing procedures that it once did. I found a igniter part for $30. As far as how it works, after you plug it in what goes first, the igniter? Because before I would see a nice orange glow inside chamber then fan would run causing it to fire. Does it have to be set on high when starting?
It more than likely tripped the breaker on the back or side of the unit.
When mine plugs in the fan does not move. The Ignite starts with spark plug but no fuel or fire. The motor fan has to run correct for the air pump to push air. This is new to me and I just got it gave to me to fix if I wanted to keep it
Gave me the knowledge to feel comfortable opening mine up.
In my case, the air pump and fuel delivery hoses were dry rotted. ....after 3 years from new, stored in a garage.
Made in China items of rubber seem to be WAY below specs.
Those lines feel more like plastic to me and the clamps weren't even snug on the hose barbs any more.
Good video. My rubber fuel line has dry rot cracks. Can I replace it with a piece of standard automotive line ? Not sure what size diameter to use, I have a Remington 70,000 Btu 5 yr old heater. Thanks
Wow, that's pretty new for it to start dry rotting. They claim automotive liquid fuel line will slowly get eaten away/degrade with propane. That being said, I've done it without issue or any noticeable softening of the rubber. After the regulator there is only a few psi of pressure in the line.
Thanks I was given one of these. Was afraid to bbn use it. I heard you can also use diesel fuel. Is that true? Thanks. It was freezing in my shop. I will try it soon. Thanks
My Reddy Heater R55 will not run properly with the upper shell installed. Initially, the unit wasn't sparking, so I replaced the transformer ignition control and installed a new spark plug. That fixed the sparking issue. However, this new shutoff issue was discovered. I elected to replace the lint filter, intake filter, and output filter, as those pieces all looked pretty old. The filter end cover was cracked on the side and spitting out air, which I replaced. After the same issue continued and the unit shut off after a few minutes with the upper shell on, I replaced several other things. This included the photocell, nozzle and adapter, the adjusting screw, spring, steel ball, and the 1/8" ID air and fuel lines. After digging deeper into this, I noted the old 3/16" ID air line was leaking with a bit of soapy water, my dad's best trick for finding leaks. One thing to note, when I have the upper shell off, I have set the pressure to 3.4 PSI (per the side label), but when I put the upper shell on, the PSI drops to below 3.0 unless I hold the gauge still. When I hold it, the gauge reads 3.4 PSI. A couple of final things to note on this journey. 1) The fuel cap does not look to have a gasket but it seems to breathe properly with the hole in the center of the cap. 2) Before any issues started, I was running pump kerosene. Since then, I filled up with 10 gallons of jet fuel at a local airport and wondered if I got bad fuel from them. I plan to run through the last 7 gallons or so of jet fuel with the upper shell off and then try a couple of gallons of pump kerosene to see if that resolves the problem. Beyond all of my attempts, I am at a loss and could use some help. I've spent more on these repairs than the unit is worth but started the process in hopes of fixing the heater, as my wife's grandfather gave it to me a couple of years ago. In hindsight, I should have just bought a new unit, but here I am.
I’ve been given an old 100k btu Dayton torpedo heater. It’s missing the spark plug. My question is: for the purpose of troubleshooting, can I use any plug that fits (rather than buying a $15 replacement)? I just want to be sure it runs before putting too much $$ into it. Thanks!
Yes, any plug will work and give you spark. Gap it around .060"
l had one that would light but then in about 10min start pulsing and would go out,think i scrapped it or it still might be up in the attic,,
Sounds like junk in the fuel or maybe water.
Great video . Your explanation helped me solve my issue - gunked up rotor & vanes. Saved me time & money
Awesome, I'm glad the video was useful.
Hi Great video. Can you explain what you did with the 2nd plug lead that is not being used? Thank you.
Also I've read the ignitor coil requires a good ground. Where does the coil ground to?
nice upload mate. I've just bought an English made heater like this, probably made in the 1970s, going to do a service on it before I try to fire it up. thanks again for teaching me how these work. not sure if my one has a photo cell though. Cheers from the UK
Thanks. I hope it is a good recourse for yours.
U know sir THANK u ...i love guys like u to take time out to show things that i have not learned yet,working in my garage and it burning to rich,will drive u out of the garagePEEEEEACE
I have the exact same heater, the only problem I have is the blower motor bushings sticking. WD-40 and hand turning to loosen fan works quite well.
Nicely done. Throw a few drops of motor oil onto the shaft to help lubricate it. WD40 is great for freeing up sticking parts but not so much for lubrication.
If you ran a test for spark and it starts but shuts down, then observing spark would tell you it was fuel related failure.
I had to check one once and could find no one who could diagnose and test or check it.
I ended up taking the nozzle to a fuel sales company and the guy I the office showed me it can be disassembled and cleaned.
Wooosh.
Here comes the fuel and proper atomization.
Hey great video. I have a problem with mine, at first it wouldn't start and then I noticed some rust on the propeller shaft like your has and it was jammed. I forced it to move and now it starts but it makes this prrrrrrrr sound continuously. I was thinking would some oil and more rotating fix it?
Edit. I tried that and the propel moves smoothly now but the sound hasn't changed. Any ideas?
Helpful video. My torpedo heater turns on but then after a few seconds the breaker trips. Sounds like it might be the optical sensor. There is no heat. What are your thoughts? Thanks
Heather Simpson If it never produces heat/flame it is not the optical sensor. The optical sensor is only bad if the heater is functioning and producing heat then trips the breaker for no reason. The first thing to do is check for spark.
sixtyfiveford Ok I changed plug, it has a spark but nothing else is coming on and it trips again after a few seconds. What do you think should be the next step? Thanks
If your not getting a good mist/smoke out the front of your fuel then your pump is not working or one of the hoses is split so it can't pressurize.
Im not getting anything but the spark. I will check hoses ect. Thanks for the quick response.
Got to say thank you for posting this video.
Fixed out little Reddy Heater today, was a fouled spark plug...
I can't change the air flow setting the screw rounded off, but its working okay as it.
Terry Martin That's always awesome when it's such an easy fix. Thanks for watching.
Dude!!!! Great video... I almost bought a john Deere that looked pretty clean...just wasn't working.... I was really hesitant to pull the trigger a blow $100 bucks on Something I didn't have a clue how to begin to fix. The next one I see is all mine!!!! So, thanks so much!
Those plastic screws really suck. The screw drive spreads the end and makes it bind up while turning. I machined a 3/8-24 set screw to replace it but I"m still not getting enough pressure. I don't know how to check the motor.