They are pretty simple to operate and work on and most makes still have replacement parts. The spray nozzles don't have any moving parts and do not wear out. They simply need to be taken apart a cleaned so don't waste money buying a new one. If the nozzle is dirty, you probably need to replace the filters in the pump and fuel line (there should be one on the end of the hose inside the tank) There are a gazilion videos here on TH-cam that show how to clean, adjust and replace parts that are needed to make them work properly. So unless the motor has burned out (kinda spendy) an older one will work just as good as a new one if cleaned and adjusted right.
Thanks for the information! This nozzle was cleaned in my ultrasonic, and was clean, but it just wouldn't run right. I did a back to back test off camera after changing the filters and pump rotor and vanes. The new nozzle ultimately stayed in.
@@mehlsmountaingarage Those nozzles are made very presice and I've seen people clean them welding tip cleaners (That have small filing ridges on them) and screwed up their heaters flame pattern. I just use compressed air blowing into the end of the nozzle which will blow out any debri without messing with the jet hole.
@PainterD54 perfect info for the readers. Torch tip cleaners will mess it up, compressed air, solvent, ultrasonic cleaners, are the way to go without changing the size of the holes.
This is why I have always used propane torpedo heaters. Those kerosene heaters have all that drama just to run with the photo sensor, air pump, and Kerosene storage. Granted the new kerosene multifuel heaters now have electronic ignition with no spark plug and brushless fans etc I get that. For me, propane is a much more maintenance free system and a cleaner sysytem.
Heck yeah, I agree. This is something I've had hanging around for years and I'm using as a temp heating source for the new shop till I install a permanent solution. Propane is definitely cleaner for running in a building like this.
Great tip, and you are right, often just getting the plug cleaned can help. Fuel hose air leaks are common, along with the plastic housing on the pump leaking of having cracks. Leak-tec or similar can help find air leaks. In my case, the nozzle was worn and the heater wouldn't run clean without surging unless to top was off.
Good question, without seeing it its tough to tell. But, I would look into the basics. Check/clean the plug and make sure the gap is correct. Check the fuel lines to see if they are tight and make sure they aren't sucking air. Also check the plastic pump housing for leaks. Then, go from there.
I have a habit of ordering all new parts for things. I am impatient and want it fixed ya know? I have piece f mind knowing it is all new, besides, the parts were available and inexpensive.
I just found one in the trash the other day, HS175KT model. I cleaned the f connector and nozzle with gum out and compressed air. Set air pressure to 6.5 psi and it lights now but shoots flames out the front with a periodic puff of smoke. Any idea what’s the issue?
They are pretty simple to operate and work on and most makes still have replacement parts. The spray nozzles don't have any moving parts and do not wear out. They simply need to be taken apart a cleaned so don't waste money buying a new one.
If the nozzle is dirty, you probably need to replace the filters in the pump and fuel line (there should be one on the end of the hose inside the tank) There are a gazilion videos here on TH-cam that show how to clean, adjust and replace parts that are needed to make them work properly. So unless the motor has burned out (kinda spendy) an older one will work just as good as a new one if cleaned and adjusted right.
Thanks for the information! This nozzle was cleaned in my ultrasonic, and was clean, but it just wouldn't run right. I did a back to back test off camera after changing the filters and pump rotor and vanes. The new nozzle ultimately stayed in.
@@mehlsmountaingarage Those nozzles are made very presice and I've seen people clean them welding tip cleaners (That have small filing ridges on them) and screwed up their heaters flame pattern. I just use compressed air blowing into the end of the nozzle which will blow out any debri without messing with the jet hole.
@PainterD54 perfect info for the readers. Torch tip cleaners will mess it up, compressed air, solvent, ultrasonic cleaners, are the way to go without changing the size of the holes.
Interesting information. I was wondering why you didn't put some oil on your fan moter bearing.
I did put a few drops in them while it was apart, couldn't hurt.
I know these heaters well, I could most likely get it working great!
This is why I have always used propane torpedo heaters. Those kerosene heaters have all that drama just to run with the photo sensor, air pump, and Kerosene storage. Granted the new kerosene multifuel heaters now have electronic ignition with no spark plug and brushless fans etc I get that. For me, propane is a much more maintenance free system and a cleaner sysytem.
Heck yeah, I agree. This is something I've had hanging around for years and I'm using as a temp heating source for the new shop till I install a permanent solution. Propane is definitely cleaner for running in a building like this.
It’s usually needs plug clean good or replace spark plug 😊
Also look for plastic cracks on pump
Great tip, and you are right, often just getting the plug cleaned can help. Fuel hose air leaks are common, along with the plastic housing on the pump leaking of having cracks. Leak-tec or similar can help find air leaks. In my case, the nozzle was worn and the heater wouldn't run clean without surging unless to top was off.
Mine smokes after I cut it off what part could cause that ?
Good question, without seeing it its tough to tell. But, I would look into the basics. Check/clean the plug and make sure the gap is correct. Check the fuel lines to see if they are tight and make sure they aren't sucking air. Also check the plastic pump housing for leaks. Then, go from there.
Thank you for the response
Hard to troubleshoot over the web or phone ya know?
Are the brushings replaceable in the motor?
I am not 100% sure. This motor did work, just requiring some lube on the bearings.
Also, the old rotor n vanes just need cleaning and make sure they are totally dry, no lubricant on them is the way they work
I have a habit of ordering all new parts for things. I am impatient and want it fixed ya know? I have piece f mind knowing it is all new, besides, the parts were available and inexpensive.
I want to turn the heater on and off with a timer. Is that possible or does an abrupt stop damage the heater? Thanks
I don't think the abrupt start/stop would hurt, as that is what happens when you plug/unplug it.
I never replaced the nozzle, usually always cleanable
I just found one in the trash the other day, HS175KT model. I cleaned the f connector and nozzle with gum out and compressed air. Set air pressure to 6.5 psi and it lights now but shoots flames out the front with a periodic puff of smoke. Any idea what’s the issue?
New rubber hoses and or cut the old tip ends off then the hose will fit tighter
That works often if the hose is still pliable and long enough.
Wey too much unnecessary commentary,
@phillipcrossley7235 Thanks for the feedback.
I respectfully disagree. People are in search of information, and you provided that and then some. Very helpful video.
@RayzoRay97 Thank you for the feedback! I appreciate it, as do others!