check list: How to buy a Honda Element 1. look at pictures for no rust on bottom of doors, drips of rust from door. 2. go to back tire and look at where the control arm ( aka rear trailing arm mount) connects to the frame and look for rust 3. go to front undercaridge and look at rockers for rust 4. BEFORE start open hood (pull strainght out) look for stickers if no stickers it a sighn of aftermarket hood, posible collision, after market bumpers turn grey. 5. Note if it has ABS for snow driving 6. check oil cap for milky ressidue 7. check for oil 8. look at coolant, check over flow resivouis, look for color should be idially blue for honda. 9. look for oil drips 10. look at steering rack 11. start car with hood open and listen to starter 12. once engine is running turn on AC and listen for commpressor 13. make sure both radiator heads are spinning, if Ac is not charged they wont spin when you press ac button, if just one is spinning its uusually ok 14. listen for volume of engine (exaughst leaks) 15. look for after market cadilidic converter 16. NEXT take it for a ride(look for check engine , air bag light) 17. check transmission smooth shifting 18. break response 19. cluncks in steering 20. ONCE YOUR DONE WITH TEST DRIVE, now you check check enginge light code, check code even if no light they might have cleared the code before you got there. 21. plug in scanner under wheel with car running 22. NOTE: if your getting miss fire code 23. after test drive go to each wheel and feel it for heat, checking for break dudst and sticky break caliper 24. look at springs 25. look at tierod ends, look for ripped boot 26. look at tires edges/ dry rot 27. look at side rear view see if tire tips in 28. Drivers seat condition 29. check all door openingas 30. check window function 31. check roof for dents 32. check hatch and hatch struts function 33. tailgate function 34. check for spare tire 35. look underneath from rear 36. look at pannel gaps at bummper headlight area if big seperations could have been in collision 37. check underneath for oil leaks 38. ONCE YOUVE OCMPLEATED LIST NEGOTIATE PRICE BASED ON WHAT IT NEEDS. 39. Next notice accessories like fog lights,trim,running boards, roof rack,arm rests,tailgate spoiler, for potential resale. 40. check for spare keys 41. check titles for no leans,rebuilt,or salvage venmo:@atticusallen 😉
Just got a 2010 with 132,000 in Florida. Having two previously in a rust state I can tell you to get under the element and check for rust. Especially under rear bumper and rocker panels. Also use an OBM2 test to see if any codes pop up. Chris Fixx also has a great used car check list sheet that helps keep you focused when checking out a used car.
It's fantastic. Sorry, I never saw your comment. Definitely recommend awd if you're in a lot of snow. Mines fwd handles decent in snow but limits you on hills. I've been keeping my eyes open for awd.
Researching Elements to buy as a second car. Love the room. Thank you so much for your channel. So in depth. I have been up all night watching your videos. Thanks! 😊
Can the trailing arm mounts be repaired ? Does anyone make the metal pieces to weld back in ? I looked at a element and one arm is actually pulled out . Rest of car is OK with 120 K miles on it . Thanks
this typical model Honda Element is perfect for camping adventures because, I own a Honda Metropolitan Scooter some of the Element has like to carry my H.M.S. in the cargo to fit in the back.
I have an '05 with 241,000 on it - my original starter went out at 235,000. Mine didn't sound differently, it just kind of intermittently stopped starting at all. I replaced the negative battery cable hoping that it was something simple. That made the starter work for a little while longer, then it acted up shortly thereafter (only worked sometimes). I watched a YT video on how to change it with and without taking off the intake manifold. I ended up taking off the intake and overall I thought it was a much easier job than trying to snake that thing into the tight space...starts like a dream again.
What are you calling the part when you're identifying the torn boots where the grease leaked? Tire ident? I can't make out the words either time...Thanks! Using this advice to look at an Element later today!
Wow, that's some great info! I wish I would've watched this before I bought either one of my two Elements. Both were 2003 models. The first one I bought about 5 years ago was front wheel drive with a manual transmission. At the time I didn't realize how important it was to adjust the valves, especially when they reach high mileage, and I burned up a valve right around the 220,000 mile mark. This was right after I did tons of suspension work to it (and spent thousands $). I bought the one I currently own about 2 1/2 years ago. It's a 4wd with an automatic trans. I just did the valve adjustment myself last week and must say the engine is a lot smoother and quieter now. It wasn't really as difficult as I thought it would be. The only thing I wish I would've checked when I bought it was the cooling fans, like you said. Neither one of them was working and I'm sure the previous owner overheated the engine because I've had to fix oil leaks everywhere (that my previous Element didn't have): from the VTEC solenoid, oil control valve, valve cover gasket, and a couple other places. I think when the engine overheated it cooked all the rubber gaskets. The other thing you pointed out was the water getting into the VTEC solenoid pigtail connection and putting it into limp mode. After reading some forums I finally figured out it was just water intrusion causing the problem all along, but not after relacing several solenoids at over $200 a piece lol. Anyway, this is probably the best video on what to look for when buying a used Element I've seen yet. Last night I watched your other excellent video on rustproofing and I did that today. I'm definitely subscribing to your channel now.
Our 07 Element came to End of Life event from terrible rust and the rear wheel broke away from the chassis. On a lift we saw extensive rust on the driver side rocker and a hole in the floor. The servicer we took our car for maintenance and State inspection NEVER alerted us to the damage that was taking place from rust. We could have possible saved it!!!! Who can afford to go a Honda dealership for those pain maintenance issues. Brake jobs. Tire alignment...etc etc
Hey man I have a question for hondas if you need a valve adjustment like a valve being too tight will it show symptoms before it wrecks your engine? Such as rough idle or misfires ?
I’m in the market for an element, looking for a blue/black/green awd..any year, and it seems like it’s similar to buying a 1995 Honda civic.. it’s either beat to sh*t, riced out, or over priced and clean. I can’t get lucky, but I’m not settling for something I don’t want.
@@AlexKolipinski Blown head gaskets are a case-by-case thing. I blew a head gasket in my 1986 Toyota PU at 159K, and the gasket was replaced since there was no damage to internals. No need for a new engine. Lasted to 445k when I sold and sent it south to Honduras.
So if I find a 2011 Element with no of the possible problems you listed- and it's 117 000 miles, what would you say would be a good price for it? Thanks
I’ve had it for 2 years. It was rusty like that when I bought it, but It was super cheap and meant to be a winter beater for 1 winter. 50,000 miles later it’s still going strong😂
@@AlexKolipinski Love to hear it! 😅 I recently bought a 2010 EX at 172k with some minor body blemishes but single owner with great service records. I’m hoping I can take her to 300k and beyond. Your videos are a great resource, keep up the great work sir!
All good stuff Alex..... good reminders for all of us. Thanks Also I might add that each panel has a VIN number sticker also ... Should be a way to tell if it's had panels replaced or new ones.
I'm planning to buy an Element myself. It's a risk for me, since i'm planning to trade my 2013 Outback which only has 80k miles on it (I know, it's stupid) for a 2006 EX model with 144k miles. Or a more basic 2007 LX model with 92k miles. I was wondering how good they are at those miles i've listed, especially the 144k. Because the 144k is cheaper than the 92k one, due to mileage of course. And i don't really wanna end up with a high monthly fee from a financing. Are they good beyond 200k? Cause if they're not, at 144k i basically only have 50k or so miles left on it. Is the LX model worth it too? I know it's worth it for the miles alone, but it was quite lacking in features. I'm being stupid enough trading my current car for those two, cause i've always really wanted one. And as the years go by, good ones are getting rarer and rarer. So i was hoping you or anyone here can answer me.
With proper care and maintenance Elements engines can easily meet or exceed $300k. I drive an manual '05 with 299,300 and a manual '04 with 232k. That said have a 3rd party mechanic do an inspection for $150.
check list: How to buy a Honda Element
1. look at pictures for no rust on bottom of doors, drips of rust from door.
2. go to back tire and look at where the control arm ( aka rear trailing arm mount) connects to the frame and look for rust
3. go to front undercaridge and look at rockers for rust
4. BEFORE start open hood (pull strainght out) look for stickers if no stickers it a sighn of aftermarket hood, posible collision, after market bumpers turn grey.
5. Note if it has ABS for snow driving
6. check oil cap for milky ressidue
7. check for oil
8. look at coolant, check over flow resivouis, look for color should be idially blue for honda.
9. look for oil drips
10. look at steering rack
11. start car with hood open and listen to starter
12. once engine is running turn on AC and listen for commpressor
13. make sure both radiator heads are spinning, if Ac is not charged they wont spin when you press ac button, if just one is spinning its uusually ok
14. listen for volume of engine (exaughst leaks)
15. look for after market cadilidic converter
16. NEXT take it for a ride(look for check engine , air bag light)
17. check transmission smooth shifting
18. break response
19. cluncks in steering
20. ONCE YOUR DONE WITH TEST DRIVE, now you check check enginge light code, check code even if no light they might have cleared the code before you got there.
21. plug in scanner under wheel with car running
22. NOTE: if your getting miss fire code
23. after test drive go to each wheel and feel it for heat, checking for break dudst and sticky break caliper
24. look at springs
25. look at tierod ends, look for ripped boot
26. look at tires edges/ dry rot
27. look at side rear view see if tire tips in
28. Drivers seat condition
29. check all door openingas
30. check window function
31. check roof for dents
32. check hatch and hatch struts function
33. tailgate function
34. check for spare tire
35. look underneath from rear
36. look at pannel gaps at bummper headlight area if big seperations could have been in collision
37. check underneath for oil leaks
38. ONCE YOUVE OCMPLEATED LIST NEGOTIATE PRICE BASED ON WHAT IT NEEDS.
39. Next notice accessories like fog lights,trim,running boards, roof rack,arm rests,tailgate spoiler, for potential resale.
40. check for spare keys
41. check titles for no leans,rebuilt,or salvage
venmo:@atticusallen 😉
Just got a 2010 with 132,000 in Florida. Having two previously in a rust state I can tell you to get under the element and check for rust. Especially under rear bumper and rocker panels. Also use an OBM2 test to see if any codes pop up. Chris Fixx also has a great used car check list sheet that helps keep you focused when checking out a used car.
Just got myself a 2004 element and loving it. It was the vehicle I needed and didnt know I needed it.:) loving your channel up here in Canada.
Hows the element in canada? I want the awd element for quebec’s weather 🫡
It's fantastic. Sorry, I never saw your comment. Definitely recommend awd if you're in a lot of snow. Mines fwd handles decent in snow but limits you on hills. I've been keeping my eyes open for awd.
Researching Elements to buy as a second car. Love the room. Thank you so much for your channel. So in depth. I have been up all night watching your videos. Thanks! 😊
This is all excellent advice. Thanks for sharing Alex!
I'm a Car guy with many classic mustangs and hot rods... WELL DONE !!!
MAIN think to check is the Rear trailing arm mounting locations on the rear. I just posted a video covering that issue. It can be a deal breaker!
Can the trailing arm mounts be repaired ? Does anyone make the metal pieces to weld back in ? I looked at a element and one arm is actually pulled out . Rest of car is OK with 120 K miles on it . Thanks
This is such a useful video. Its amazing the stuff you dont know to look for. Thank you!
"Classic ripped driver seat" 😅
Just picked up an 06 EX-P last week with 130k miles for $7900. It’s in near mint condition, whoever had it last took great care of it.
Thank you for the thoughtful video. I will make sure to take note of the things you highlighted in the video.
You did a great job with this video so many videos waste of viewers' time but this was crammed full of excellent information I subscribed
Fantastic explanation of all things to look for. I will be using this in the future. Thanks for posting
this typical model Honda Element is perfect for camping adventures because, I own a Honda Metropolitan Scooter some of the Element has like to carry my H.M.S. in the cargo to fit in the back.
Hi, if rust is located on the undercarriage is this major to pass on it? thanks for this great video!!
Can the bad rust Elements be repaired?
How does the starter sound when its time to be replaced?
I have an '05 with 241,000 on it - my original starter went out at 235,000. Mine didn't sound differently, it just kind of intermittently stopped starting at all. I replaced the negative battery cable hoping that it was something simple. That made the starter work for a little while longer, then it acted up shortly thereafter (only worked sometimes). I watched a YT video on how to change it with and without taking off the intake manifold. I ended up taking off the intake and overall I thought it was a much easier job than trying to snake that thing into the tight space...starts like a dream again.
Great video 👍
great video and to the point! thank you!
What are you calling the part when you're identifying the torn boots where the grease leaked? Tire ident? I can't make out the words either time...Thanks! Using this advice to look at an Element later today!
Tie rod end
Wow, that's some great info! I wish I would've watched this before I bought either one of my two Elements. Both were 2003 models.
The first one I bought about 5 years ago was front wheel drive with a manual transmission. At the time I didn't realize how important it was to adjust the valves, especially when they reach high mileage, and I burned up a valve right around the 220,000 mile mark. This was right after I did tons of suspension work to it (and spent thousands $).
I bought the one I currently own about 2 1/2 years ago. It's a 4wd with an automatic trans. I just did the valve adjustment myself last week and must say the engine is a lot smoother and quieter now. It wasn't really as difficult as I thought it would be. The only thing I wish I would've checked when I bought it was the cooling fans, like you said. Neither one of them was working and I'm sure the previous owner overheated the engine because I've had to fix oil leaks everywhere (that my previous Element didn't have): from the VTEC solenoid, oil control valve, valve cover gasket, and a couple other places. I think when the engine overheated it cooked all the rubber gaskets.
The other thing you pointed out was the water getting into the VTEC solenoid pigtail connection and putting it into limp mode. After reading some forums I finally figured out it was just water intrusion causing the problem all along, but not after relacing several solenoids at over $200 a piece lol.
Anyway, this is probably the best video on what to look for when buying a used Element I've seen yet. Last night I watched your other excellent video on rustproofing and I did that today.
I'm definitely subscribing to your channel now.
Hi sir thks for sharing. Do ubhv links on valve adjustment? I m buying a 2004 Element 140k mileage
Our 07 Element came to End of Life event from terrible rust and the rear wheel broke away from the chassis. On a lift we saw extensive rust on the driver side rocker and a hole in the floor. The servicer we took our car for maintenance and State inspection NEVER alerted us to the damage that was taking place from rust. We could have possible saved it!!!! Who can afford to go a Honda dealership for those pain maintenance issues. Brake jobs. Tire alignment...etc etc
Love your channel! Would love to meet you and Logan
Come to the tail of the dragon next year we will be there!
@@AlexKolipinski I would love that!
Wowwww.
THANK YOU
They don't sell that Innova 6100P anymore. Which Innova model do you recommend instead of that one?
Thank you! I'm headed to look at a 2006 with 134k on Wednesday!
Hey man I have a question for hondas if you need a valve adjustment like a valve being too tight will it show symptoms before it wrecks your engine? Such as rough idle or misfires ?
I’m in the market for an element, looking for a blue/black/green awd..any year, and it seems like it’s similar to buying a 1995 Honda civic.. it’s either beat to sh*t, riced out, or over priced and clean. I can’t get lucky, but I’m not settling for something I don’t want.
Hi thks so much for sharing . How to check the lien title?
We are looking to purchase an Element to tow behind a diesel pusher RV, can it be be done, and safely without damage to the trans? thanks!
No
@@ScottStephenSmith not a chance
FWD put front on tow dolly. AWD put the whole car on a trailer.
Great video bro
So what does the milky residue in the oil cap or coolant mean?
It means the head gasket is blown (from overheating) and the engine needs to be replaced. When coolant and oil mix it looks like a chocolate milkshake
@@AlexKolipinski Blown head gaskets are a case-by-case thing. I blew a head gasket in my 1986 Toyota PU at 159K, and the gasket was replaced since there was no damage to internals. No need for a new engine. Lasted to 445k when I sold and sent it south to Honduras.
So if I find a 2011 Element with no of the possible problems you listed- and it's 117 000 miles, what would you say would be a good price for it? Thanks
Depending on which model but upward of 13000 to 14000
Did you buy the rusty Element as a project, or is that one you've had a while that just developed the rust naturally?
I’ve had it for 2 years. It was rusty like that when I bought it, but It was super cheap and meant to be a winter beater for 1 winter. 50,000 miles later it’s still going strong😂
@@AlexKolipinski Love to hear it! 😅 I recently bought a 2010 EX at 172k with some minor body blemishes but single owner with great service records. I’m hoping I can take her to 300k and beyond. Your videos are a great resource, keep up the great work sir!
All good stuff Alex..... good reminders for all of us. Thanks
Also I might add that each panel has a VIN number sticker also ... Should be a way to tell if it's had panels replaced or new ones.
I'm planning to buy an Element myself. It's a risk for me, since i'm planning to trade my 2013 Outback which only has 80k miles on it (I know, it's stupid) for a 2006 EX model with 144k miles. Or a more basic 2007 LX model with 92k miles.
I was wondering how good they are at those miles i've listed, especially the 144k. Because the 144k is cheaper than the 92k one, due to mileage of course. And i don't really wanna end up with a high monthly fee from a financing. Are they good beyond 200k? Cause if they're not, at 144k i basically only have 50k or so miles left on it. Is the LX model worth it too? I know it's worth it for the miles alone, but it was quite lacking in features.
I'm being stupid enough trading my current car for those two, cause i've always really wanted one. And as the years go by, good ones are getting rarer and rarer. So i was hoping you or anyone here can answer me.
With proper care and maintenance Elements engines can easily meet or exceed $300k. I drive an manual '05 with 299,300 and a manual '04 with 232k. That said have a 3rd party mechanic do an inspection for $150.
2006 Lx FWD plain as paper.
My wife will be selling her 2009 soon (So Calif) if anyone is interested.
Where u located and how much?
I found a 2006 with 96 miles, and it’s for just under $8k
branded title no doubt.