Just got a 2010 with 132,000 in Florida. Having two previously in a rust state I can tell you to get under the element and check for rust. Especially under rear bumper and rocker panels. Also use an OBM2 test to see if any codes pop up. Chris Fixx also has a great used car check list sheet that helps keep you focused when checking out a used car.
Researching Elements to buy as a second car. Love the room. Thank you so much for your channel. So in depth. I have been up all night watching your videos. Thanks! 😊
It's fantastic. Sorry, I never saw your comment. Definitely recommend awd if you're in a lot of snow. Mines fwd handles decent in snow but limits you on hills. I've been keeping my eyes open for awd.
What are you calling the part when you're identifying the torn boots where the grease leaked? Tire ident? I can't make out the words either time...Thanks! Using this advice to look at an Element later today!
Hey man I have a question for hondas if you need a valve adjustment like a valve being too tight will it show symptoms before it wrecks your engine? Such as rough idle or misfires ?
I have an '05 with 241,000 on it - my original starter went out at 235,000. Mine didn't sound differently, it just kind of intermittently stopped starting at all. I replaced the negative battery cable hoping that it was something simple. That made the starter work for a little while longer, then it acted up shortly thereafter (only worked sometimes). I watched a YT video on how to change it with and without taking off the intake manifold. I ended up taking off the intake and overall I thought it was a much easier job than trying to snake that thing into the tight space...starts like a dream again.
@@AlexKolipinski Blown head gaskets are a case-by-case thing. I blew a head gasket in my 1986 Toyota PU at 159K, and the gasket was replaced since there was no damage to internals. No need for a new engine. Lasted to 445k when I sold and sent it south to Honduras.
So if I find a 2011 Element with no of the possible problems you listed- and it's 117 000 miles, what would you say would be a good price for it? Thanks
I'm planning to buy an Element myself. It's a risk for me, since i'm planning to trade my 2013 Outback which only has 80k miles on it (I know, it's stupid) for a 2006 EX model with 144k miles. Or a more basic 2007 LX model with 92k miles. I was wondering how good they are at those miles i've listed, especially the 144k. Because the 144k is cheaper than the 92k one, due to mileage of course. And i don't really wanna end up with a high monthly fee from a financing. Are they good beyond 200k? Cause if they're not, at 144k i basically only have 50k or so miles left on it. Is the LX model worth it too? I know it's worth it for the miles alone, but it was quite lacking in features. I'm being stupid enough trading my current car for those two, cause i've always really wanted one. And as the years go by, good ones are getting rarer and rarer. So i was hoping you or anyone here can answer me.
With proper care and maintenance Elements engines can easily meet or exceed $300k. I drive an manual '05 with 299,300 and a manual '04 with 232k. That said have a 3rd party mechanic do an inspection for $150.
I’ve had it for 2 years. It was rusty like that when I bought it, but It was super cheap and meant to be a winter beater for 1 winter. 50,000 miles later it’s still going strong😂
@@AlexKolipinski Love to hear it! 😅 I recently bought a 2010 EX at 172k with some minor body blemishes but single owner with great service records. I’m hoping I can take her to 300k and beyond. Your videos are a great resource, keep up the great work sir!
All good stuff Alex..... good reminders for all of us. Thanks Also I might add that each panel has a VIN number sticker also ... Should be a way to tell if it's had panels replaced or new ones.
Wow, that's some great info! I wish I would've watched this before I bought either one of my two Elements. Both were 2003 models. The first one I bought about 5 years ago was front wheel drive with a manual transmission. At the time I didn't realize how important it was to adjust the valves, especially when they reach high mileage, and I burned up a valve right around the 220,000 mile mark. This was right after I did tons of suspension work to it (and spent thousands $). I bought the one I currently own about 2 1/2 years ago. It's a 4wd with an automatic trans. I just did the valve adjustment myself last week and must say the engine is a lot smoother and quieter now. It wasn't really as difficult as I thought it would be. The only thing I wish I would've checked when I bought it was the cooling fans, like you said. Neither one of them was working and I'm sure the previous owner overheated the engine because I've had to fix oil leaks everywhere (that my previous Element didn't have): from the VTEC solenoid, oil control valve, valve cover gasket, and a couple other places. I think when the engine overheated it cooked all the rubber gaskets. The other thing you pointed out was the water getting into the VTEC solenoid pigtail connection and putting it into limp mode. After reading some forums I finally figured out it was just water intrusion causing the problem all along, but not after relacing several solenoids at over $200 a piece lol. Anyway, this is probably the best video on what to look for when buying a used Element I've seen yet. Last night I watched your other excellent video on rustproofing and I did that today. I'm definitely subscribing to your channel now.
![[FULL EP.14] เซียนหรั่ง สอน มาร์ชจุ จับปูนา ฮากระจาย | เฮ็ดอย่างเซียนหรั่ง | One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M8mPjd_T2lo/mqdefault.jpg)
Just got a 2010 with 132,000 in Florida. Having two previously in a rust state I can tell you to get under the element and check for rust. Especially under rear bumper and rocker panels. Also use an OBM2 test to see if any codes pop up. Chris Fixx also has a great used car check list sheet that helps keep you focused when checking out a used car.
Researching Elements to buy as a second car. Love the room. Thank you so much for your channel. So in depth. I have been up all night watching your videos. Thanks! 😊
I'm a Car guy with many classic mustangs and hot rods... WELL DONE !!!
Just picked up an 06 EX-P last week with 130k miles for $7900. It’s in near mint condition, whoever had it last took great care of it.
This is such a useful video. Its amazing the stuff you dont know to look for. Thank you!
"Classic ripped driver seat" 😅
MAIN think to check is the Rear trailing arm mounting locations on the rear. I just posted a video covering that issue. It can be a deal breaker!
Just got myself a 2004 element and loving it. It was the vehicle I needed and didnt know I needed it.:) loving your channel up here in Canada.
Hows the element in canada? I want the awd element for quebec’s weather 🫡
It's fantastic. Sorry, I never saw your comment. Definitely recommend awd if you're in a lot of snow. Mines fwd handles decent in snow but limits you on hills. I've been keeping my eyes open for awd.
This is all excellent advice. Thanks for sharing Alex!
Thank you for the thoughtful video. I will make sure to take note of the things you highlighted in the video.
Fantastic explanation of all things to look for. I will be using this in the future. Thanks for posting
great video and to the point! thank you!
Great video 👍
Wowwww.
THANK YOU
Thank you! I'm headed to look at a 2006 with 134k on Wednesday!
What are you calling the part when you're identifying the torn boots where the grease leaked? Tire ident? I can't make out the words either time...Thanks! Using this advice to look at an Element later today!
Tie rod end
Love your channel! Would love to meet you and Logan
Come to the tail of the dragon next year we will be there!
@@AlexKolipinski I would love that!
Hey man I have a question for hondas if you need a valve adjustment like a valve being too tight will it show symptoms before it wrecks your engine? Such as rough idle or misfires ?
They don't sell that Innova 6100P anymore. Which Innova model do you recommend instead of that one?
Can the bad rust Elements be repaired?
2006 Lx FWD plain as paper.
How does the starter sound when its time to be replaced?
I have an '05 with 241,000 on it - my original starter went out at 235,000. Mine didn't sound differently, it just kind of intermittently stopped starting at all. I replaced the negative battery cable hoping that it was something simple. That made the starter work for a little while longer, then it acted up shortly thereafter (only worked sometimes). I watched a YT video on how to change it with and without taking off the intake manifold. I ended up taking off the intake and overall I thought it was a much easier job than trying to snake that thing into the tight space...starts like a dream again.
So what does the milky residue in the oil cap or coolant mean?
It means the head gasket is blown (from overheating) and the engine needs to be replaced. When coolant and oil mix it looks like a chocolate milkshake
@@AlexKolipinski Blown head gaskets are a case-by-case thing. I blew a head gasket in my 1986 Toyota PU at 159K, and the gasket was replaced since there was no damage to internals. No need for a new engine. Lasted to 445k when I sold and sent it south to Honduras.
So if I find a 2011 Element with no of the possible problems you listed- and it's 117 000 miles, what would you say would be a good price for it? Thanks
Depending on which model but upward of 13000 to 14000
I'm planning to buy an Element myself. It's a risk for me, since i'm planning to trade my 2013 Outback which only has 80k miles on it (I know, it's stupid) for a 2006 EX model with 144k miles. Or a more basic 2007 LX model with 92k miles.
I was wondering how good they are at those miles i've listed, especially the 144k. Because the 144k is cheaper than the 92k one, due to mileage of course. And i don't really wanna end up with a high monthly fee from a financing. Are they good beyond 200k? Cause if they're not, at 144k i basically only have 50k or so miles left on it. Is the LX model worth it too? I know it's worth it for the miles alone, but it was quite lacking in features.
I'm being stupid enough trading my current car for those two, cause i've always really wanted one. And as the years go by, good ones are getting rarer and rarer. So i was hoping you or anyone here can answer me.
With proper care and maintenance Elements engines can easily meet or exceed $300k. I drive an manual '05 with 299,300 and a manual '04 with 232k. That said have a 3rd party mechanic do an inspection for $150.
We are looking to purchase an Element to tow behind a diesel pusher RV, can it be be done, and safely without damage to the trans? thanks!
No
@@ScottStephenSmith not a chance
FWD put front on tow dolly. AWD put the whole car on a trailer.
Did you buy the rusty Element as a project, or is that one you've had a while that just developed the rust naturally?
I’ve had it for 2 years. It was rusty like that when I bought it, but It was super cheap and meant to be a winter beater for 1 winter. 50,000 miles later it’s still going strong😂
@@AlexKolipinski Love to hear it! 😅 I recently bought a 2010 EX at 172k with some minor body blemishes but single owner with great service records. I’m hoping I can take her to 300k and beyond. Your videos are a great resource, keep up the great work sir!
All good stuff Alex..... good reminders for all of us. Thanks
Also I might add that each panel has a VIN number sticker also ... Should be a way to tell if it's had panels replaced or new ones.
I found a 2006 with 96 miles, and it’s for just under $8k
branded title no doubt.
Wow, that's some great info! I wish I would've watched this before I bought either one of my two Elements. Both were 2003 models.
The first one I bought about 5 years ago was front wheel drive with a manual transmission. At the time I didn't realize how important it was to adjust the valves, especially when they reach high mileage, and I burned up a valve right around the 220,000 mile mark. This was right after I did tons of suspension work to it (and spent thousands $).
I bought the one I currently own about 2 1/2 years ago. It's a 4wd with an automatic trans. I just did the valve adjustment myself last week and must say the engine is a lot smoother and quieter now. It wasn't really as difficult as I thought it would be. The only thing I wish I would've checked when I bought it was the cooling fans, like you said. Neither one of them was working and I'm sure the previous owner overheated the engine because I've had to fix oil leaks everywhere (that my previous Element didn't have): from the VTEC solenoid, oil control valve, valve cover gasket, and a couple other places. I think when the engine overheated it cooked all the rubber gaskets.
The other thing you pointed out was the water getting into the VTEC solenoid pigtail connection and putting it into limp mode. After reading some forums I finally figured out it was just water intrusion causing the problem all along, but not after relacing several solenoids at over $200 a piece lol.
Anyway, this is probably the best video on what to look for when buying a used Element I've seen yet. Last night I watched your other excellent video on rustproofing and I did that today.
I'm definitely subscribing to your channel now.